What are the differences between tracking the gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Uganda or Rwanda: how do you decide where to go mountain gorilla tracking?
Mountain gorilla tracking is a professionally organised and well-developed ecotourism experience. It is the number one tourist attraction in both Uganda and Rwanda. Wherever you stay, there is a good range of accommodation options available to you. Gorilla tracking in the DRC offers fewer tracking and accommodation options and is not always available. However, where the DRC is unique is in having both mountain and lowlands gorillas! If you’re interested in gorilla tracking in the DR Congo, do drop me an email.
Ranger guides are professionally trained, will look after you well and are full of useful information. They know the gorilla populations intimately. Ranger guides speak good English. In Rwanda, many guides also speak French (in addition to Kinyarwanda of course!)
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Uganda
I simply love the drive to see the gorillas in Uganda, even from Kampala, even though it takes a whole day. Whether you are tracking the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (Buhoma, Nkuringo, Ruhija or Rushaga) or Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, the last two hours of scenery is particularly divine.
Gorilla tracking permits are cheaper in Uganda and, in my view, Uganda also has lots more to see and do before / after your gorilla tracking adventure. Uganda and Rwanda are right next door to each other however, so you could track the gorillas in Rwanda and then drive to Uganda for the rest of your East African holiday, or vice versa.
Gorilla tracking permits in Rwanda are roughly double what they cost in Uganda, making the country unaffordable to most people. Interestingly, the popularity of gorilla tracking in the DRC is on the increase and is dirt cheap by comparison. Check out my gorilla permit comparison table
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Rwanda
Rwanda’s boast is that you can fly in and do the gorilla tracking in one (rather hectic) day and fly back home the same night. I wouldn’t recommend that though.
The short drive from Kigali International Airport to the start of the gorilla tracking in Rwanda is only two hours but the drive is not as scenic (breath-taking!) as Uganda. However, the roads are better, so gorilla tracking in Rwanda includes a more comfortable drive. Although the gorilla tracking permits cost more in Rwanda, you may save money by doing a shorter trip. By comparison, in Uganda you have to stay a minimum of two nights, thus pushing the overall price up.
Which is the best: tracking the gorillas in Uganda or Rwanda?
The Muzungu highly recommends gorilla tracking in both Uganda and Rwanda. Both experiences are fantastic.
I loved hacking through the rainforest in Bwindi and I loved the bamboo forest of Rwanda. I know people who have tracked the mountain gorillas dozens of times. They continue to go back because every experience is so different. Likewise with tourists and travellers, some decide that if they are travelling all the way to East Africa, then why not track both Uganda’s mountain gorillas and Rwanda’s gorillas too?
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Still got a question? Contact the Muzungu.
MASH-tastic! The muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi [UPDATED]
Taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Try MASH! Bus travel tips and visa info.
The East Africa Tourist Visa and Interstate Pass mean that travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda is easier than ever for nationals and has become easier and cheaper for tourists and expats too. Cue: a lot more travel around the three countries for this Muzungu! I’ve taken the MASH bus between Kampala and Nairobi a few times now, and can recommend it. [NOTE this blog post is regularly reviewed and updated. We tried calling various advertised numbers, but failed to get through].
Overall, the Kampala / Nairobi MASH bus service has been excellent. I hardly felt the dreaded bump, bump, bump of the ‘rumble strips’ and managed to sleep most of the journey. Or shall I say, I fell asleep / woke up / fell asleep / woke up… over and over again.
We liked the idea of having a toilet on the bus. If it had been working, that would have been even better! According to the driver, “it is women’s fault that the toilets do not work.” Hmmm… surely they could have fixed it though?
The MASH system is well organised and departs – on time – from the relative calm of the National Theatre, making it a far less hectic experience than going to downtown Kampala bus parks with all their congestion and pickpockets. In Nairobi, however, the bus departs from the equally crazy River Road. Have your wits about you here, as lots of guys will come running at you trying to sell you a cab fair / give you unwanted directions, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve just woken up! Don’t rush to get off the bus; pace yourself and check you have all your belongings first.
Back outside the National Theatre in Kampala, an hour before the agreed departure time, a lady called us over to a table in front of our bus where she checked our tickets and passports. Next to her, a very friendly guy checked the contents of all our bags. Another three men in bright orange overalls loaded bags and boxes into the bus. I was asked to remove the padlock from my bag, which obviously I did not want to do. I was told that it was necessary for the security check at the border. I removed a couple of valuables that I’d put in my big bag, and just hoped that everything else would be safe. It was.
The MASH bus was clean. The seatbelt worked, as did the single power socket on the wall next to me. I chose to sit in the second class ‘executive’ section, just a few seats from the front. It had a decent amount of legroom and a reclining seat. My friends in the VIP seats, directly behind the driver, had even more legroom, plus they were allowed to have their big bags with them.
Every bus passenger was handed a small packet of biscuits and a packet of sugary ‘juice.’ My experience of cross-border bus journeys in East Africa is to avoid drinking at all costs, as you can never be sure the driver will stop when you need him to! However, on the MASH bus, we had three ‘comfort breaks’ before we arrived in Nairobi. It’s a “short break for a short call” and these guys do not hang around, believe me.
The driver put on some loud music for our uneventful drive to the border.
Entering Kenya later that night, one of the immigration officials growled a demand to see my Yellow Fever certificate. Luckily I had a photograph of it on my phone.
My friend Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey between Kampala and Nairobi. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat! “You snooze, you lose” as she likes to tell me… Lol.
According to Wikipedia, “Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dryness and dustiness of the area, especially between January and March. In the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elmenteita is between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru. The major Nairobi – Nakuru highway (A104 road) runs along the nearby escarpment affording motorists a spectacular vista towards the lake. Today the lake is a protected area due to its birdlife. Elementeita – together with Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria – has been named a heritage site by UNESCO.” (In 2019 I finally went on safari in Lake Elmenteita – I am still thrilled at the large numbers of flamingos I saw that weekend! The horse ride along the lakeshore was spectacular).
Travel tips for taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi
NOTE: I don’t guarantee all info is correct. You should check prices, departure times yourself. This is a personal account based on my own experience.
- MASH buses leave on time.
- The MASH booking office in Kampala is in Dewinton Road opposite the National Theatre.
- In Uganda, you can use MTN mobile money to purchase your ticket. Tel +256 (0)774 082853 is the MTN Mobile Money number registered to Mash Bus Services. I used this myself. I first called the booking office to reserve my seat numbers; confirmed my payment using mobile money; then made a second phone call to check they had seen my payment.
- The MASH booking office in Nairobi is in River Road. Their official number is +254 733 623260. In Kenya, you can also book your bus tickets and reserve your seat online and pay by Safaricom’s M-Pesa. (Paybill number 857988). This worked well too.
- To double check ticket prices and times, check out the MASH East Africa website or visit one of their offices.
- Please don’t message me – I don’t work for Mash, I’m just a customer like you 😎
Bus departure times from Kampala and Nairobi
(Please get there early: we’ve called several times to check timings and prices and the info given is inconsistent). Ticket classes are: VIP, business class and ordinary (availability depends on whether you get MASH POA or MASH COOL).
Kampala to Nairobi
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the National Theatre.
Nairobi to Kampala
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the MASH office in River Road.
MASH Cool is the air-conditioned bus. (MASH POA can get a bit sweaty!) I liked MASH Cool but you will need a blanket (or shuka) if you take the overnight bus. The MASH Cool bus has curtains too.
- Make sure you have your Yellow Fever vaccination certificate.
- Keep photos of your passport and other important travel documents (bus ticket and Yellow Fever Certificate) on your phone. Read why you must have your Yellow Fever Certificate here.
- Although the bus does have power sockets, in my experience, they don’t always work. Take a spare battery pack for long journeys so you can access digital documents any time.
- Nationals of Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya just have to show a passport or national ID and are given a temporary Interstate Pass. Ugandans who do not have passports are advised to get a temporary travel document. Cost 10k UGX. If you’re in Kampala, you can get one issued at Port Bell (or you can buy it at the border).
- Expats with work permits can get an Interstate Pass at the border at no cost (although check the eTA electronic travel authorisation requirements before leaving home if you are going to Kenya).
- NOTE: the Kenyan eTA has replaced the tourist visa. Scroll down to read more.
- If you need a visa, you are supposed to apply online in advance, whether it’s for a single country visa or an East Africa Tourist Visa. However, all visas appear to be available in person at a border (except EATV, you’ll need to read my blog about that one).
Check out the blogs I’ve written about tourist visas
- Uganda – NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online
- East Africa – What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide
- Rwanda – All travelers can get #VisaOnArrival
- Kenya – Apply for your eTA (alternative system to a tourist visa)
- The set-up at the Kenya / Uganda border has changed and you now leave one country / enter another within the same building. Previously, you had to get your exit visa from one country and then walk across the border before getting your entry visa into the next country. I found the new system confusing and had apparently entered Kenya illegally! Apparently I did not have one of the required passport stamps, even though I had been processed by three different people at immigration.
- The MASH ticket says “Smoking, alcohol, chewing miraa is prohibited. Maximum luggage limit is 15 KG, any extra weight will be charged. Passengers are warned not to take any foodstuff offered by stranger.” In the past there were incidences of bus passengers being drugged and robbed (not on any particular route or with any particular bus company).
- In addition to the Uganda / Kenya route, MASH also operate to major towns across Kenya.
- Dreamline have also been recommended to me.
Have you taken the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Which operator do you recommend?
Go Wild in UG! The Muzungu chats with Wanderlust readers
Wanderlust Travel Magazine: live webinar answering FAQs about Uganda safaris, gorilla vs. chimp tracking, where to see the Shoebill in Uganda, self-drive vs. guided tours…
I had to pinch myself when travel expert Mr Philip Briggs asked whether I’d have time to talk live to readers of the famous Wanderlust Travel Magazine. Well, YES! There’s nothing I like better than waxing lyrical about my favourite subject: travel to Uganda!
Wanderlust Travel Magazine “More than 300 of you tuned into our Uganda event to hear Charlotte Beauvoisin, writer of the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu, speak live from this incredible country alongside other expert speakers and the Uganda Tourism Board. We learned all about Uganda’s incredible wildlife and fascinating culture.
Featured image of leopard in tree. PHOTO by Peter Hogel. Courtesy MJ Safaris Uganda.
Scroll down to watch the – very lively! – recording “to explore the unspoiled and wildlife-filled landscapes of Uganda. During this virtual evening of travel, we will be meeting the experts who will bring to life the huge biodiversity, local culture and space for adventure in this incredible part of the world.”
Where was Charlotte talking from?
“I was talking live from Kyaninga Lodge a high-end lodge near Fort Portal and Kibale Forest in western Uganda (a good base for chimp tracking).”
Can you drive yourself around Uganda or is it easier to hire a driver?
“Self-drive holidays in Uganda are possible but not recommended if you haven’t done an African road trip before. We always recommend having a driver guide. They know every road – and pothole! They will tell you what time you need to leave your lodge for your next activity, maintain your vehicle and generally be a really good addition to your experience of Uganda. Ideally hire a trained guide with expertise in your particular interest e.g. safari, birding, culture, etc. If you do choose to self-drive, don’t drive at night. Very few roads are lit so driving can be dangerous. I frequently take bus trips between Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. Buses are incredibly cheap but they don’t have the best safety reputation. (Some of them have seatbelts but few ever work). Large buses ply city routes. Between towns, you will need to catch a matatu minivan taxi, which are very cramped.”
Can you self-drive in Uganda’s National Parks?
“Yes it’s possible to drive yourself in Uganda’s National Parks but you must stick to the marked tracks. Failure to do so may result in a cash fine or even eviction from the park. If you travel independently, you will need to have a Uganda Wildlife Authority armed ranger escort, at your (small) cost. Choose the right one, and you will have an expert guide to your Uganda safari. Although the idea of doing your own game drive sounds exciting, local people know exactly where the different wildlife hunts and sleeps. (It’s amazing what you may drive past while looking in the other direction!)”
What budget do you recommend per day, excluding air fares, for a Ugandan safari?
“Options can vary wildly according to the standard of accommodation and the number of people in your group. You generally pay a little more for lodges and hotels inside a National Park. Uganda has a range of accommodation from homestays and campsites to mid-range hotels and luxury lodges with spas and butler service. Daily rate would usually include: 4×4 vehicle (often a minibus van) with English-speaking driver and fuel; accommodation and meals; some activities such as game drives and nature walks (the more expensive gorilla / chimp tracking permits are usually charged extra).
Generally speaking, allow a budget of $200 or more / day to cover all of the above. If opting to stay in high-end lodges, daily rates would start at $450 per person. [Prices estimated April 2022]. For best value, travel in a group of four or more.” Looking for a tour operator? Check out my Travel Directory.
How accessible and reliable is medical care for tourists in Uganda?
“The first thing to remember is to buy travel insurance before you travel to Uganda. It’s easy to access basic medical advice and clinics in Uganda but if you take regular medication, do bring a good supply with you. It can be difficult to access certain medicines outside Kampala, however, you will easily find malaria testing and treatment facilities, for example. Malaria prevention is always better than cure. Minimise health risks by taking antimalarials, sleeping under a mosquito net and alerting your guide or tour company if you are feeling unwell. Drink filtered or bottled water (few tourists complain of stomach upsets in Uganda).
For more serious health issues, you would need to get to a town or even Kampala. Medivac evacuation (by helicopter for example) is available but very expensive. Compared to many countries, Uganda has not been badly hit by COVID-19. Read Uganda travel advice I ignored – my advice on various health and safety issues based on my 10+ years living in Uganda.”
How does chimpanzee tracking differ from mountain gorilla tracking?
They’re big and they’re hairy – but other than that these two great apes are radically different. Mountain gorillas are huge but gentle vegetarians. Chimpanzees are nutters!
Mountain gorillas spend most of their day on the ground, sleeping and farting. Chimpanzees can cover a big range up in the trees. (Yes, ok, they also fart a lot!)
Gorilla tracking is amazing because of the rainforest territory and the climb through the mist to find them. Chimp tracking is hilarious – they are so like us. (Or are we like them?)
I love both primate tracking experiences. I can’t say one is better than the other but price is definitely a consideration. In 2022 in Uganda, it costs $700 for a gorilla tracking permit. By comparison, a chimp tracking permit is between $50 to $200, depending which National Park or Forest Reserve you track in. Read the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s conservation fees for tariff for 2022- 2024.
Where is the best place to see giraffe and elephants in Uganda?
“The best place to see (Rothschild’s) giraffe would definitely be Murchison Falls National Park. Smaller populations have been reintroduced to Lake Mburo and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve; you can also see giraffes (and cheetah and a lot more) in Kidepo, in Uganda’s remote north east. Elephant can be easily seen in the popular Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks.”
How easy is it to see the Shoebill bird in Uganda?
“I once saw three Shoebills on the Delta boat ride in Murchison Falls National Park. Their size makes them easy to spot but they are shy and very few in number. Make sure you have an expert guide. If you absolutely have to see the Shoebill – and time or budget are an issue – why not pass by Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe? In addition to the Shoebill, you can see indigenous species such as elephant, lion, white rhino, chimpanzee and serval cats. Another location that is an easy drive from Entebbe is Mabamba Bay. Although the Shoebill can be viewed in other parts of Uganda, the places listed here are Uganda’s most popular Shoebill viewing destinations.”
What is the one experience or one place in Uganda that people should experience?
“Murchison Falls National Park in northern Uganda is the country’s most popular National Park (yet for all that, there are few tourists compared to many of Africa’s tourist areas). The park is named after the dramatic falls where the River Nile narrows from 1/2 a kilometre wide to just seven metres wide and plunges 43 metres. It’s a fantastic sight, seen from below via boat or from above: at the Top of the Falls, you can feel the power of the water in the rocks beneath your feet. I write about it in Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron, Murchison Falls. Murchison is an excellent safari destination, whether for game drives, safari boat rides, birdwatching or chimp tracking in Budongo. The Shoebill is one of Murchison’s 400+ bird species.”
Watch the full recording of the Wanderlust reader event: go wild in Uganda
What did Wanderlust readers have to say about the Go Wild in Uganda webinar event?
Thanks all. Now looking at a trip.
Thanks very much. It’s been a great evening. Great words from great people. Thanks very much to Charlotte and your friends, good job.
Thank you for a wonderful evening. It reminds us of the great time we had in Uganda (and that was without seeing the gorillas as we felt we weren’t fit enough for the trek). It also made us want to go again.
Thank you for a fascinating insight into Uganda. I really enjoyed the event and would love to visit there!
Advice to would-be Ugandan travel writers – a competition!
Uganda’s Travel Writing Competition 2022 [now closed]
Writing has opened many doors for me.
Get writing between now and the end of July and you have a chance to win one of these prizes:
- 1 million Uganda shillings (always good)
- An all-expenses-paid trip to “somewhere in Uganda” (nice!)
- Mentoring (arguably the best prize of all, if you’re serious about a writing career)
The second annual Travel Writing Competition is the initiative of Irene Allen Namisango and the team at Uganda Uncovered. The muzungu will be one of the judges, alongside Julius Luwemba (journalist, writer and photographer) and Dr Jim Ayorekire (Senior Lecturer and Researcher, Makerere University).
Here are some of the things I have learned about being a travel writer.
How did I start writing Diary of a Muzungu? And why?
I started Diary of Muzungu in 2008 as I was preparing to quit my 9-to-5 job in London. This blog records the life-changing experience of saying goodbye to the corporate life to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Back then, Diary of a Muzungu was simply a personal diary (adjusting to power cuts, Luganda lessons and shopping in Namuwongo market!)
The discipline of daily writing allowed me to reflect on my radically new life. (You don’t have to publish everything of course.) Journaling – or old-fashioned scribbling in a diary – can be therapeutic as well as a chance to develop your own style. Why do I blog? 10 surprisingly for lessons from a self-confessed blogoholic. I look back on my early blogs and can see that regular blogging has improved my writing. My sentences are better structured. I have found my voice.
Writing was already a big part of my life before Uganda. I wrote proposals and reports for a living; the content could be dull, but it was excellent training. (When I felt creative, I would write for the staff newsletter). Fast forward and – hello world – I am a judge in a travel writing competition, a trainer and mentor.
Tips for being a successful travel writer
You have to put in the hours, consistently. Here is a behind-the-scenes view of a typical work trip Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger.
If you want to be a good travel writer, the writing is far more important than the travelling. Travel can be costly – and you are unlikely to get any trips funded until you have a strong portfolio – so don’t ignore what’s on your doorstep. Here are my top tips for Ugandans who want to travel.
What are the job opportunities for travel writers in Uganda?
As tourism develops in Uganda, companies are looking for talented writers to help them with their marketing. We need new ideas and perspectives but most of all, we need original, quality work. I get fed up with seeing my content posted on other people’s sites (without so much as a courtesy tag). Come on Uganda – try harder!
Unfortunately, Uganda’s copy and paste culture undermines quality output. It also weakens the destination brand if we’re all just rehashing the same content. When I say that we need original content, I mean that each story should be written from scratch. In addition, we need to look for new topics and alternative ways to structure our communications. Don’t just copy somebody else’s ideas. Do not start with “I got up in the morning and I had breakfast.” It’s boring. Find your voice. You might not get it right first time. Practice. Read.
A note for tourism businesses looking for travel content
Employers need to understand that quality writing is a resource-intensive task. It takes time to research a subject, check the facts, write the narrative, edit, review, edit again and proofread. A decent blog post or magazine article involves many revisions. (At some point, I will put an article to one side so that I can go back to it later with fresh eyes). Your travel content could be someone’s first impression of Uganda. It must read well and all the facts must be verified.
What is the theme of this year’s Travel Writing competition?
“My 100% recommendable destination in Uganda.”
Articles should be 800-1000 words about the writer’s recommended destination. According to Irene, the aim of the story is “to keep a reader engrossed and desire to visit that particular place.” Stories should be “anecdotes from personal travel experiences from road trips to camping experiences, weekend getaways to long safaris.”
At the June 21 launch at the Uganda Museum, Basil Ajer, the Director of Tourism at the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, urged “Please contestants make use of this [writing] opportunity… write and make the readers accept that Uganda is the Pearl of Africa.”
Daniel Irunga pledged total support of the initiative on behalf of the Uganda Tourism Board.
Richard Kawere, head of the Uganda Tourism Association, the industry’s apex body also endorsed the event. He has been very supportive of the initiative from its inception. “Content writing is one of the biggest gaps in the tourism industry in Uganda.”
Eric Ntalo, Uganda Wildlife Education Centre Public Relations Manager, said “It is important for Ugandans to be involved in promoting conservation and tourism. It is one sustainable way to benefit from all the endowments the country has.”
How to enter the Travel Writing Competition 2022
- The competition is open to Ugandans of 18–35 years.
- The closing date is 11:59 PM July 31, 2022.
- Submit your story as a PDF – with pictures.
- There are no fees to enter the competition.
- Articles should be between 800–1000 words.
- The organisers state that “Winners will be invited to take part in a 3-month training with the Uncovered Youth Writers Hub to further hone their writing skills. These trainings will be facilitated by award-winning travel writers and authors. Winning articles will be featured on our websites and social media platforms. In addition to the prizes, free trips and visibility, shortlisted travel writers stand a chance at employment and travel writing gigs with reputable travel agencies on the hunt for writers.”
One final word of writing advice from Diary of Muzungu
Start writing now. Don’t wait until the last minute. Start jotting some ideas down.
Multi-millionaire author Stephen King advises Write with the door closed, rewrite with the door open (meaning don’t worry about your ugly grammar or what anyone else thinks. Just dump those ideas on the page then come back to them later).
Good luck everyone! I look forward to reading your entries – and featuring a few of the winning travel stories on Diary of a Muzungu 🙂
Rwanda Uganda land border reopens after 3 years [UPDATED]
Diary of a Muzungu has crossed from Uganda into Rwanda by road.
UPDATE. May 14th 2022. Hooray! I have crossed the Katuna / Gatuna border; it was very easy.
People entering Rwanda may still be subject to random COVID-19 testing by the Ministry of Health upon entry. However, I didn’t even have to show my vaccination certificates or wear a mask either. Very few people were wearing masks at Gatuna. You don’t have contact tracing if you cross by land borders (no need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form).
Key info: anyone traveling through Kigali International Airport must have a negative PCR test result 72 hours before travelling (no change). This applies even if you are in transit. You also need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form to land in Rwanda. All departing Rwandans must be vaccinated.
Curfew is well and truly lifted. Citizens and Rwandan citizens must be fully vaccinated to access public places (including public transport, but are they checking?) You don’t need to wear a mask in public anymore.
On Monday 30th of January 2022, Rwanda reopened the land border with Uganda at Gatuna / Katuna after a 3-year closure. Other Rwanda land borders reopened on March 7th. I’ve missed my cross-border bus journeys! However, very few people have travelled between Uganda and Rwanda yet this year. Initially it appeared that the Gatuna border only reopened for trade and for nationals of the two countries. The video “advises against non-essential travel.” Unfortunately, tourism must fall into that category. Rwanda Uganda border reopens after three years.
UPDATE: March 5th I met an American passport-holder who travelled by bus from Kigali to Gatuna. She was one of only five people who crossed. She took the bus from Kigali, crossed by foot and then caught a private hire taxi to Kabale.
In recent years it’s been common for international tourists to travel to Uganda and Rwanda on one safari itinerary. During the last three years, few people have been able to do this, unless they have flown into Entebbe (Uganda) and Kigali (Rwanda) International Airports (lockdown measures not withstanding!) Many Ugandans and Rwandans have family both sides of the border.
I am monitoring the situation and updating this blog regularly.
#ExploreUganda #VisitRwanda
Where are you celebrating Easter? Uganda resident specials!
Are you looking for things to do in Kampala and places to stay in Uganda this Easter?
Easter 2022 will be celebrated between 14th and 18th April, come rain come shine! It’s incredibly hot as I write this, so it’s hard to imagine rain! However, rains are certainly due…
Here are a few of Diary of a Muzungu’s suggestions on how to spend the Easter holidays. Am I missing somewhere? (I know I am! Feel free to contact the Muzungu with suggestions or recommendations).
The Easter holiday is a great time to leave Kampala for a few days. Uganda has countless destinations where you can spend the long weekend. Their numbers are mushrooming as you read!
Some hotels and lodges quote in Uganda shillings, others in dollars. I don’t usually quote prices (they date so quickly) so you should always check terms and conditions before making your booking (and do mention a certain ka blog won’t you 😎). Any prices quoted here are for Ugandans and expats / Ugandan residents. (International tourists generally pay higher prices so are not covered in this blog post).
To view images full size, just click on each one. For lodge descriptions and contact details, scroll down…
NOTE: lodge suggestions are grouped by (approximate) location.
Destination Safari! The bush is calling…
To many expats in Uganda, mention the magical words “public holiday” and the first thing they will want to do is disappear on Safari. You simply can’t beat reconnecting with nature (ideally with post-game drive gin and tonic of course!)
Safari destinations, gorillas and volcanoes …
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks
If you’ve ever thought of tracking the gorillas, Easter could be a good time as you need at least two nights in Bwindi or Mgahinga. Since there are fewer international tourists than normal, you should find it easier to get a last-minute gorilla permit. (At the time of writing, permits are still available for Easter 2022, particularly in Ruhija in Bwindi’s southern sector).
Dear would-be gorilla tracker: COVID-19 SOPs require that you wear a mask when you are in the great ape national parks and there must be a minimum of 10 metres distance between you and the animals (formerly it was 7 metres).
Chameleon Hill
Book three nights at the gloriously colourful Chameleon Hill during April 2022 and you have a choice of offers: either pay 3 nights and stay 4 nights; alternatively, pay for 3+ nights and receive a complimentary massage plus a boat excursion. Resident rates are $125 / person sharing in a double/ twin chalet and $175 single occupancy, both on full board basis. Chameleon Hill
+256 (0) 772 72 1818 welcome@chameleonhill.com
Clouds Mt. Gorilla Lodge, Nkuringo, southern Bwindi
For a rate of $230 / person / night sharing, enjoy full board accommodation at Cloud’s, one of Uganda’s top lodges. Get a 10% discount if you stay for Easter weekend. This offer applies to a minimum two-night stay. Tucked in the south-western corner of Bwindi, walk to a vantage point to admire the peaks of some of the Virunga volcanoes and peek into Rwanda and the DRC.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Bunyonyi and Lake Mutanda
Look what Gorilla Highlands dreamed up just for you:
Spend your Easter weekend with a family hike on Lake Bunyonyi, culminating in an Easter egg hunt on Habukomi Island. You can choose between the 3-day Mother of All Treks programme, 2-day Mama Bena’s Bonus or 1-day Islands of Miracles. Each trek combines dugout canoeing and hiking with the Easter Sunday island picnic and egg fun as a complimentary bonus. Don’t feel like walking? Gorilla Highlands can also take you to Habukomi by motorboat!
I have worked with the Gorilla Highlands team on many occasions. They offer awesome, authentic experiences that directly benefit the local community.
Jump in Lake Mutanda [like the girls in the photo] for the best view of the volcanic peaks of Mt Sabinyo and Mt Muhabura, two of the Virunga volcanoes
Gahiza Island Retreat offers a number of room options for Ugandan residents. Bed and breakfast is 150k ugx / double room / night, for example. For Easter 2022, book two nights and take a three-hour boat tour (worth 150k ugx) on Lake Mutanda for free or stay a third night for free!
0775235579 reservationgahizaisland@gmail.com
Buhoma Lodge, Bwindi
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Buhoma Lodge, one of Bwindi’s best, long established high end lodges and pay $155/person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. This is a steal! This Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022.
$5 per person per night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation. I love their work!
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Kibale Forest National Park and Fort Portal
The crater lakes have been enticing visitors to Fort Portal – Uganda’s first “tourism city” – for decades. Popular expat lodges include Ndali Lodge, Kyaninga Lodge, Isunga Lodge, and Papaya Lake Lodge. Each one overlooks its own lake.
If you plan to track chimps, COVID-19 SOPs state that you wear a mask and you must keep a minimum of 10 metres between you and the great apes (formerly it was 7 metres).
To the south of Kibale National Park lies Turaco Treetops “a true jungle experience where comfort meets nature!” On a clear day, you can see the Rwenzori Mountains. Families love the outdoor playground, swimming pool and kids’ playroom. Children and adults alike enjoy the guided nature walk and mountain bike tour (new ‘Giant’ bikes for adults and children are available to hire from the lodge).
Luxury cottages are in secluded locations; standard rooms have (optional) sharing balconies, perfect for families or groups of friends. It’s quite likely Turaco Treetops will be fully booked by the time you read this article but bookmark it for your next weekend away!
+256 (0) 75 715 2323
The Sunbird Hill Experience, Kibale Forest edge (3km from Kanyanchu)
One of the highlights of the Sunbird Hill Experience is the guided walk with Silver, the reformed poacher and ranger, a veritable walking encyclopedia of forest knowledge. Learn about Kibale’s birds and 100s butterfly and moth species at Butterfly Village. Sunbird Hill is set up for those who are passionate about nature. If you’re looking for an immersive experience, look no further. The ridiculously low $30 fee includes expert site guides, half day access to the Birders’ Lounge and refreshments. There is nowhere else like it in Uganda!
Visits to this private site are strictly by prior appointment. WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 julia@sunbirdhill.com
All Sunbird Hill activities support In the Shadow of Chimpanzees NGO.
Rweteera Safari Park
Don’t miss Rweteera Safari Park’s Easter offer: free canoeing experience and a guided night walk around the shores of Lake Nyabikere in search of nocturnal animals. Keep your eyes peeled for bushbaby, nightjar and crickets. You’ll know if you hear the chilling shriek of the tree hyrax!
The Easter offer is exclusively for overnight guests. Rates are single $50, double $70 (bed and breakfast). Rweteera Safari Park is within walking distance of Kibale National Park.
WhatsApp 0776862153 rweteerasafaripark@gmail.com
Beyond Fort Portal
Between Fort Portal and Kasese is the Italian-themed Lodge Bella Vista – and pizzeria – that was built by a retired Italian diplomat. The lodge and pool overlook Nyamiteza crater lake. Walk, bike and explore Toro‘s many community tourism attractions.
This Easter, book two nights at Lodge Bella Vista and get 50% off your 3rd night, subject to availability.
+256 773204264 / 759214947 booking@lodgebellavista.com
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Ishasha Wilderness Camp sits on the bend of a river in its own forest. This idyllic spot is regularly visited by wildlife and is the first place I spotted the eye-catching Narina Trogon.
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Ishasha Wilderness Camp and pay $155 / person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022. $5 per person night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation.
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Little Elephant Camp
If you love camping – but prefer glamping – head to Little Elephant Camp, rated 5 stars on TripAdvisor. Here families, couples or small groups have their own private, secure camp with a view of Queen Elizabeth National Park just outside the park’s northern boundary.
Facilities include en-suite hot water outdoor “stargazer” shower, private campfire, well-equipped mess/kitchen with refrigeration and purified water, Wi-Fi, and much more. Shop and cook for yourself or pre-order marinated barbecue, fresh ingredients and everything you need for your safari, all delivered ready for your arrival. Easter 2022 promotion price at Little Elephant Camp is $80 per person (accommodation only) based on 2 people sharing. Minimum 2-night stay.
+256 759 537220 / 787 722355 info@littleelephantcamp.com
The Observatory
One of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite places! Enjoy uninterrupted views of Lake Edward, Lake George, the Kazinga Channel and Lake Nyamusingire from The Observatory, a self-catering holiday home overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park. Two private cottages have splash pool, sauna, hot tub and barbecue area available for your exclusive hire at a very affordable rate. Click here to see gorgeous photos of The Observatory in the Travel Directory.
Kidepo Valley National Park
Did you know that everyone who goes to Kidepo rates it as their favourite National Park? The upmarket Apoka Lodge is the perfect base for a safari in Kidepo Valley. Their Easter 2022 rate is $180 / person / night sharing based on a minimum two-night stay. The rate includes full board meals and one game drive per day. Terms and conditions apply.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Mburo National Park
Popular lodges include Rwakobo Rock (a personal favourite), Hyena Hill Lodge (I’ve heard great things), Leopard Rest Camp and the one and only Mihingo Lodge.
Lake Albert
Kikonko Eco Lodge is your first address on Lake Albert. Scenic views and a serene atmosphere characterise this small boutique lodge with swimming pool. Here guests can enjoy excellent service from friendly staff and get a peaceful night’s sleep in spacious self-contained cottages with private verandas.
Easter Special: book 2 nights in a double room on a bed & breakfast basis for $120 per night and get a third night and breakfast for free. A family room sleeps up to 4 people (2 adults and 2 children). The Easter rate is $170 for bed and breakfast. An Easter egg hunt is included in the price. Other lodge activities cost between $5 to $20.
+256 784 432 508 info@kikonko.com
Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve and Semliki National Park
It’s confusing to have two very different protected areas with almost identical names! Which is which? Semliki Wildlife Reserve is a savannah park on the southern edge of Lake Albert; Semliki National Park comprises a forest and the famous Sempaya Springs.
Shhh, don’t tell everyone but Semliki Safari Lodge in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve is where you should go when you want to escape the world!
Upgraded and refurbished during the pandemic in classic safari style, Semliki Safari Lodge offers full board and one game drive per day for $160 / person / night over the Easter period. This is based on two sharing for a minimum of two nights. Booking is dependent on availability and is only extended to Ugandan citizens and Ugandan residents with proof of residence. This lodge is ab fab! Read my blog Uniquely Semliki!
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Closer to Kampala…
If you don’t have many days off, here are a few ideas for places to visit closer to the capital.
Expat favourite Nkima Forest Lodge has a great swimming pool and is ideal for mountain biking, canoeing, butterfly catching for the children and Shoebill-watching at Mabamba. Nkima Forest Lodge, Mabamba, is sister to Lake Mburo’s excellent Rwakobo Rock.
Call +256 701 865056 / +256 787 429377
Ssesse Islands
Fancy an island adventure?
Banda Island is an-ever popular, well-run location for an Easter weekend.
Rainforest Lodge in Mabira Forest
Mabira Forest is midway between Kampala and Jinja. This popular lodge has a swimming pool and sauna, badminton, volleyball, dartboard and board games. For 1.6 million Uganda shillings, a couple can stay two nights. This Easter 2020 rate is for full board and includes one complimentary bottle of wine. Cheers!
Call +256 782 574271 / +256 701 563437 reservations@geolodgesafrica.com
Jinja
Adventure tourism has taken off in Uganda with most activities based in and around Jinja, the Source of the Nile. Jinja is a favourite getaway for Kampala residents; it has something for everyone. The two new roads – Gayaza to the north and south of Jinja Road – make weekend trips in Jinja easier than ever.
Bungee Bar – and the bungee jump of course!
Uganda’s first – and currently the only – bungee jump overlooks the River Nile. No stomach for the jump? No problem. Take the safer (saner?!) option and watch the bungee from the comfort of the Bungee Bar, a fabulous spot for a sundowner. Bungee Restaurant has an extensive food and cocktail menu and is worth the ride just for the sunset views. to book a bungee jump or to reserve a table at the restaurant.
Call Rob on +256 750 707825 – and tell him the Muzungu sent you 😎
Quad biking and crazy golf for all the family at Bujagali, Jinja
Read my quad biking blog “Eat my dust!”
Also managed by Rob +256 750 707825.
Pony Rides with Nile Horseback Safaris
If you fancy trying something new this Easter holiday, how about a sunset horse ride? The $60 sunset ride – for experienced adult riders – includes beer, local spirits, juice and sodas.
Did you know Nile Horseback Safaris offer 30-minute pony rides for kids aged between 4 and 12 years? Pony rides are between 9 and 11am and 2.30 and 4pm daily (subject to availability of ponies). Children – and adults – can do longer rides if they are experienced horse riders.
Pre-booking is essential for all rides.
+256 774 101196 nilehorsebacksafaris@gmail.com
Things to do at Easter in Kampala
moonbean chocolate, based together with Dancing Cup in Bugolobi, Kampala, are offering children ‘Build-a-Bunny’ and ‘Choc-Chick’ making workshops from early April 2022, and an Easter egg-hunt and other holiday activities over the Easter weekend. Follow @moonbeanchocolate on social media for the latest details.
+256 701 805182 m.me/moonbeanchocolate
An Easter thought from Diary of a Muzungu in support of Uganda’s tourism industry
The pandemic has devastated travel in particular and there’s been a big shake-up in tourism businesses up and down the country. It’s sad when you hear negative feedback about a favourite lodge that was on top of its game two years ago, but the reality is it will take time before things get back to normal. Many businesses are still in recovery mode.
You and I might be traveling again but let’s not push too hard for discounts. Remember the more we spend, the more we’re investing in the future of tourism in Uganda.
Whatever you do this Easter, get out there and #ExploreUganda! Looking for something different? Contact the Muzungu – I have 100s more ideas. HAPPY EASTER 😎
Uganda travel advice I ignored
Hunting for practical Uganda travel advice? Do as I say (not as I do)
We all make mistakes, here are some of mine. This is a list of some of the advice I was given – and ignored. No doubt this list will grow as quickly as the list of good travel advice does!
Note to mum: you don’t need to read this. Switch off the computer and go and make yourself a nice cup of tea…
“DON’T swim in Lake Victoria or you’ll catch Bilharzia” they warned
There are hundreds of lakes scattered across Uganda. The good news is you can swim in most of them.
Adventurous or reckless – who’s to judge? – I’ve swum in Lake Victoria and the Nile many times.
If you’re planning to go white water rafting, kayaking or canoeing in Jinja, don’t worry, the river is mostly fast flowing so there’s little chance that you will catch Bilharzia (although it’s not impossible). Bilharzia can be horrible.
Read the Diary of a Muzungu’s suggestions on How to avoid Bilharzia.
“DON’T swim in the River Nile” I was told
Where not to swim in the River Nile advises you on how to avoid other dangers … some of them four-legged!
“DON’T forget to take your anti-Malarials” said all my well-meaning friends
Malaria can be fatal. However, very few Ugandans or expats take anti-Malarials. Read some of the precautions we take in How to Avoid Malaria.
When I was a Voluntary Service Overseas volunteer, I was given a whole list of vaccinations (15 injections in total!) and a free supply of anti-Malarials, in the belief it was cheaper to medicate me than to repatriate me.
“DON’T use a boda boda!” Said oh so many people
Riding a boda boda (motorbike taxi) is all part of the Ugandan experience, but play it safe and minimise the risks. Here’s the Muzungu’s guide on How to ride a boda boda.
“DON’T forget your sunscreen,” said my aunt
What I have lost in expat friends leaving Uganda, I have gained in bucket loads of sunscreen.
When volunteer friends have left Uganda, they’ve left me an assortment of half bottles of cosmetics. I have the full range of sunscreen, factors 5 through to 50, total block, waterproof, for kids – the lot.
But I like having a few freckles and I don’t hang around outside in the heat of the day.
I only seem to remember sunscreen when I’m going on Safari! But maybe I should rethink that…
“DON’T date a Ugandan!” One of my girlfriends told me
Ugandan men are handsome and can be very charming. They know how to tell women what we want to hear.
I’ve had more marriage proposals in Uganda than in my whole life!
But ladies, proceed with caution. Here are my tips on How to date a Ugandan.
So what are your do’s and don’ts for living and travelling in Uganda?
Do share them here. I’d love to read from you!
Huge boost for Kenya tourism as UK relaxes travel restrictions
Kenya moves from red list to amber list
Finally! Kenya 🇰🇪 is off the UK’s red list! This will take effect at 4am, Wednesday 22 September 2021.
For the last few months, tens of thousands of British people have been denied the chance to travel to Kenya, one of their favourite holiday destinations. Equally, red list restrictions have been disastrous for Kenyans wanting to visit friends and relatives in the UK, and those who study or work in the UK.
While we appreciate the need to protect ourselves and others from COVID-19, the British “traffic light system” has created untold frustrations for travellers. Travel restrictions continue to cause massive financial losses for developing countries whose economies are reliant on tourism.
At the time of writing, leisure travel to red list countries is banned by the UK government and remains in place for Uganda, Rwanda, South Africa and many other countries. (Ironically, the UK has some of the world’s highest COVID infection rates). November 2021: travel is a continuous state of flux. If you have any East Africa travel-related questions you are always welcome to message me directly.
Are you traveling to Kenya?
According to the Magical Kenya website, all passengers travelling to Kenya from the UK must have a negative COVID-19 PCR test certificate conducted within 96 hours before travel. (Children under the age of five are exempt).
In addition, all passengers are required to self-isolate for seven days upon arrival (except if you are coming from the exempted countries) and must take a PCR test four days after arrival. [September 18th: will visitors to Kenya still need to self-isolate after 22nd September? I am looking for official guidance on that and shall update this blog once I find it].
All travellers need to complete a COVID-19 Travellers Health Surveillance Form before travelling. You’re advised to download the QR code which you will need to show to Port Health officials on arrival.
Are you travelling to the UK from Kenya?
According to the East African (September 17th 2021) “Travellers from Kenya will be exempted from compulsory hotel quarantine, although they may be required to isolate for 10 days and take tests.”
Read more about the red and amber list travel restrictions on the British government’s website.
I know from first-hand experience how creative we have to be if we want to avoid quarantine! In July 2021, I travelled from ‘red list Uganda’ via Spain in order to get into the UK without quarantining.
I regularly visit Kenya so I’m absolutely thrilled that red list restrictions are being removed. We now need Uganda, Rwanda, and South Africa to be removed from the UK’s red list!
Are you planning a trip to Kenya? Safari or coast – what is your favourite destination?
“I have liked you”
Gonja and roasted goat: bus travel from Kampala to Fort Portal
The bus from Kampala to Fort Portal leaves at 7 o’clock in the morning and I am told to be there an hour beforehand. I catch a boda boda across the city as the early morning traffic gathers. It’s refreshing to be driving through the cool early morning air with my bag packed for five days on the edge of Kibale Forest – away from the laptop.
Our boda heads downtown – avoiding a certain saloooon – where we are surrounded by thousands of people all jostling to get to work, to sell their wares, gearing up for the day ahead.
As we turn a corner, a tall man in bright green overalls shouts “Link? Link?”
I wasn’t sure where to find the Link bus park but there’s no mistaking the man in green who runs up the street to a yard filled with buses of the same bright green. The word LINK is written in large yellow letters.
I don’t have change (balance) so the man in green offers to take my money and buy a ticket for me and come back with the change for my boda boda. No thank you. He seems legitimate enough but I’m wary. (Once-upon-a-boyfriend-ago, a similar move in Cairo by a very helpful stranger separated us from all our money – on the first day of our holiday). Alert for similar tricks, I walk to a shop opposite the Link bus station, buy two bottles of water and have the change I need to pay for my boda boda and my bus ticket without using an intermediary.
On board I squash myself in near the back of the bus. I choose to sit near a lady and her baby. She beams at me as I sit down.
“But I need some water,” she says very loudly (to me?)
I’m not sure what I’m supposed to make of this so I choose to ignore her.
Before the bus departs for Fort Portal, a man walks up and down the aisle selling cakes. A small round cake is 500 Uganda shillings; a big square slab of cake is 1000 shillings. I opt for the smaller cake to accompany my breakfast apple.
The bus leaves on time.
I check WhatsApp while we are still in town. The guy next to me seems very interested in everything on my phone screen. “Ooo Facebook!” He exclaims. I try and ignore him and shield my screen from his interested eyes. His gaze keeps coming back to my phone. I glare at him. Out of the corner of my eye I see his ‘Nokia’ phone. I guess he is envious of my Smartphone. I feel bad for thinking mean thoughts.
We are seated one row in front of the back row. In my rush to get a seat I have (again) forgotten how I will regret sitting over the back wheel of the bus.
As the bus hits the open road to Fort Portal, phone networks go off and everyone settles down for a snooze. There’s a blast of cold wet air. Every time we slide the window shut, the juddering and shaking of the vehicle reopens it. The lady pulls the blanket over her child’s head. I try and keep myself warm by putting my bag on my lap.
The lady is trying to keep the window closed to keep her baby warm. The man sitting between us has fallen asleep. “Typical husband,” I think. “He’s asleep while she’s worrying about the baby.” I’m worried the baby is as cold as I am, so I fold a small piece of paper and pass it to her, thinking she may be able to use it to wedge the window shut. “Do you want me to put it out of the window?” She motions.
No!
I doze and am woken by the ringing of a phone. This lady does love to chat. I hear her cough and I get up to retrieve the second bottle of water from my bag. If she’s breast-feeding, she must need water.
We are halfway to Mubende before I buy my ticket. The ticket seller slowly works down the aisle, writing out each ticket by hand. The guy next to me peers into the pocket of my bag. I try and retrieve my money without showing him exactly how much I am carrying. He’s craning his neck to have a good look. The guy selling tickets doesn’t have enough change so he writes 5,000 UGX and his signature on the back of the ticket to denote that he has to pay me my balance.
At Mubende, plastic bowls full of roasted gonja and cardboard boxes of water and sodas are pushed up to the bus window. Someone waves roasted meat at us through the gap. I opt for a chapati. “Roasted or dry?” The young man asks me helpfully. I understand enough of the lady’s Luganda to know that she is complaining about the prices. She sends the young man to the shop with her order for orange squash and goat.
“I have liked you,” she said. “You can give me your number so I can call you.”
She tells me that she is going to Kasese (the stop after Fort Portal) to visit her parents for a few days and that she will go back to Kampala to see her husband.
“I thought this one was your husband?” I ask.
“No. This one I just met him on the bus.”
The young man jumps back on the bus brandishing wooden skewers of glistening roasted goat. He offers me one. It’s kind of him but I’m not in the mood for roasted goat. (I also recall the advice not to accept food or drink offered by strangers on public transport). This pair seem kind enough though.
He removes the flimsy bag (polythene paper in Uglish) from around the meat and screws into a small ball. He passes it to the woman who knows exactly what he wants her to do with it: she forces it out of the window.
He sits next to me, tearing at the meat with his teeth. His teeth hit a bone which he spits at his feet. A small heap of goat bones accumulate on the floor between us. The smell of roasted meat fills the air.
The chat chat chat starts again. I like this couple. She and her baby remind me of my niece and her baby. She is loud but friendly. He reminds me of someone from the village. He appears uneducated but innocent.
More passengers squeeze onto the bus. A lady passenger places her big bag on the aisle and sits on it and we’re off again. I am still standing up when the driver slams on the brakes. The guy next to me grimaces; I hang onto the side of the seat. There’s never a dull moment on the bus to Fort Portal.
On the other side of the aisle is a Muslim lady wearing a bright yellow headscarf and pink lipstick. She wears a bold kitenge print dress and an eyeful of cleavage.
I pull out a large tourist map of Kampala, fully expecting the young man to ogle at it and start asking questions. I’m rather pleased with my new map: KCCA have launched a tourism map of the city and I’m interested to see which places feature on it.
Nothing! The young man doesn’t even glimpse over. I read the map, unfold it, turn it over, fold again. I’m amazed – the guy doesn’t register interest even once! Is tourism just ‘a white people thing’ I ask myself?
I ask myself: I wonder if he can read? Or perhaps it’s only money and phones that make him tick?
The ticket inspector returns to check our tickets and I politely remind “sebo (sir)” whether he has my balance yet. He doesn’t seem to hear me.
“*Gwe!” Yells the young man, trying to back me up.
*It’s a little rude considering “Gwe” is old enough to be the young boy’s father!
Road travel from Kampala to Fort Portal via Mubende – tips for travelers
- There’s a universal price of 300 ugx for a short call whether at Kampala Link bus station, en route at Mubende or at the bus station in Fort Portal.
- For the best HOT gonja and chicken, buy directly from the women who are grilling (on the way back from the toilet!)
- If you take the afternoon bus from Fort Portal, you may be lucky enough to see the sun set over Lake Wamala. What a wonderful, unexpected sight that was.
- Link have made a lot of investment over the past few years: new buses, redesigned depots and generally helpful staff. The CCTV security system at the Kampala depot is another positive development too.
- Buying bus tickets is a lot easier and more secure since Link introduced a new digital ticketing solution with the KaCyber app. It’s great because it promotes social distancing (avoid the scrum at the booking office!) Book your ticket in advance and pay using mobile money or PayPal. The KaCyber Go App is free to download but not available on all Link bus routes yet. The app is particularly useful now since it is a ‘contactless’ solution (no need to touch money or paper tickets so no need to sanitise your hands!)
- I wrote this story before COVID-19 disorganised us.
- Diary of a Muzungu readers know I regularly take the bus from Kampala to Fort Portal and in October 2020 I took my first bus journey of the pandemic. All travellers have to wear facemasks and everyone’s hands are sprayed with disinfectant. I sat between one empty seat and the aisle. For social distancing purposes, the pattern of vacant seats was repeated throughout the bus.
Do you travel by bus? What are your travel tips? If you enjoy my bus journey stories, I have plenty more 😎
Travel to Rwanda during COVID-19: step by step guide
How to prepare for travel to Rwanda during the COVID-19 pandemic
This article is for everyone who is planning to travel to Rwanda in 2021, whether ‘arriving, transferring, transiting or departing.’ I am updating this post regularly with traveller feedback, answers to Frequently Asked Questions about COVID-19 (Coronavirus), information from tour operators and guides in Rwanda and the Rwanda Development Board. Travel restrictions and protocols are subject to constant change so please post any questions in the comments or message the Muzungu directly for the latest Rwanda travel advice.
Rwanda recorded its first confirmed case of COVID-19 on March 14, 2020. The City of Kigali was in lockdown in 2021 but has reopened with numerous Standard Operating Procedures in place. Scroll down to the comments for links to latest lockdown news for Rwanda
Planning a trip to Uganda? For travel advice on similar topics, read Entebbe International Airport Uganda: travel in the new normal. Planning a trip to Kenya? Read Kenya still open to international tourists.
Kigali International Airport, Rwanda’s main airport, is open
With the world set to continue life in the ‘new normal,’ the Rwandan capital’s airport at Kanombe is operating again. Once you arrive at Kigali International Airport, you’ll go through a new set of procedures as you enter ‘the land of a thousand hills.’ I have tried to list the new requirements in chronological order.
With so many changes, it is good to know that visa on arrival remains available for all visitors to Rwanda.
How to prepare for travel to Rwanda during the pandemic
- Do you need a negative COVID-19 test to fly to Rwanda?
- What are the SOPs (protocols) at Kigali International Airport?
- Is it true that I need a second COVID-19 test on arrival in Rwanda?
- Can I get visa on arrival in Rwanda?
- What if I am unable to get a test before I fly?
FAQs about quarantine in Rwanda
- Will I need to quarantine when I arrive in Kigali?
- How can I reach my quarantine hotel if I land during curfew?
- Can friends or family pick people from Kigali Airport?
- How do I book one of Rwanda’s official quarantine hotels?
- How long is the quarantine period in Rwanda?
- What are the protocols for passengers transiting Rwanda in 2021?
FAQs about COVID-19 tests in Rwanda
- How much does a COVID-19 test cost in Rwanda?
- Which COVID-19 test is required by the Rwandan government?
- Which COVID-19 test is required to track the gorillas in Rwanda?
- Who pays for my treatment if I test positive for COVID-19 in Rwanda?
PRE-DEPARTURE
Have a COVID-19 test. The only accepted test is a SARS-CoV 2 Real Time Polymerase Chain Reaction (RT-PCR) performed within 72 hours of departure time. (NOTE April 2021: not 120 hours as it was initially).
Click here to complete the Passenger Locator Form before boarding the plane to Rwanda. Include passport details and full travel info (including hotel bookings) and upload the COVID-19 test certificate The only exemptions are: travellers under 16 years old who are traveling with a parent or guardian, provided that their details are included on the parent or guardian’s form; they arrive and leave together; and stay at the same address in Rwanda. The information on the form will be used if you (or someone you’ve been in contact with while traveling to Rwanda) develops symptoms of coronavirus (COVID-19). The form must be submitted before departure. Look out for the email confirmation which will give your Unique Health Code (UHC) that you’ll be asked to show upon arrival in Rwanda.
Book one of Rwanda’s designated quarantine hotels. This list is dated December 2020.
ARRIVAL AT KIGALI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
All COVID-19 standard operating procedures (SOPs) are strictly observed at Kigali International Airport; screening procedures include body temperature check.
Inbound travellers (arriving or transiting) in Kigali Airport are required to present a certificate of a negative COVID-19 test. All arrivals must check in at one of the designated ‘quarantine hotels’ where you will be tested again, at your own expense. The RT-PCR COVID-19 test currently costs $50 USD (47,200 RWF) in Rwanda and payment can be made on the test appointment website. Test results will be sent by SMS or email. The turnaround time for results is 24 hours from the time a sample is collected.
The Government of Rwanda has negotiated special rates at a long list of designated hotels in in Kigali and Rusizi in different price categories for the 24-hour waiting period. The special hotel rate includes airport pick-up and is full board (three meals).
The hotel quarantine period is 24 hours while you wait for your test results. The test result is valid for five days (120 hours).
If a traveller tests positive for COVID-19 while in Rwanda, they will be isolated in a government-run treatment centre or a hotel at your own cost. You will not be permitted to leave Rwanda until you receive a negative PCR test result, which could take several weeks from the first detection of your infection. This applies even if asymptomatic.
FAQs about transit through Kigali, Rwanda
- I am passing through Kigali in transit. Do I need a COVID-19 test?
- There is no facility for me to get a COVID-19 test before I fly to Rwanda. What can I do?
Yes. Like other passengers, transit travellers will be screened upon arrival in Rwanda. However, beyond that it’s not clear – protocol for further tests depend on whether you are leaving the airport and for how long.
Visitors who are not able to test in their country of origin have the option of being tested twice in Rwanda. The first test will be done upon arrival at Kigali International Airport and the second test will be taken 48 hours post-arrival. Visitors will wait for their results at designated hotels and will only be allowed to visit tourist sites after two consecutive negative tests.
FAQs about flying out of Kigali
- Do you need a negative PCR test to fly from Rwanda?
- How many hours do you need to arrive at the airport before your flight?
- Where can you get COVID-19 tests done in Kigali?
- What if my flight from Kigali takes off during curfew?
The Government of Rwanda has a zero-tolerance policy for exporting positive cases of COVID-19.
Travellers departing from Rwanda must also have a negative RT-PCR COVID-19 test within 120 hours (and not less than 48 hours) before departure.
These tests are available at Rwandan Biomedical Centre (RBC) located in Kigali city centre. Rwandan Biomedical Centre has recently opened a testing facility in Musanze, the perfect location for gorilla tracking tourists who need to get the PCR test before heading to the airport. Booking and payment can be made on the test scheduling website. PCR test results are normally sent by SMS within 48 hours and available on RBC’s COVID-19 Test Results Portal. You will need to print out this travel certificate and have it ready to show at the entry to Kigali Airport.
The virus prevention measures and additional health screenings at the airport mean you’ll need to allow extra time. Four hours is recommended.
Government regulations during COVID-19 that tourists need to know
- Do you have to wear a mask in public in Rwanda?
- Is public transport working in Rwanda during the pandemic?
- Can I take a moto (motorbike ride) in Kigali?
- What are the curfew hours in Rwanda?
- How can I find a reputable tour company in Rwanda?
Face masks must be worn at all times in public. Major public facilities have temperature checks in place and most government buildings ask you to provide locator (contact tracing) information before they’ll let you in.
Rwanda COVID-19 update March 2021:
- The Kigali lockdown has been lifted. Private vehicles and taxis are allowed to take tourists across the country, to have COVID-19 test appointments or to go to Kigali airport to exit the country. If you’re looking for a reputable tour company in Rwanda, visit my Travel Directory.
- A curfew is in force from between 9 pm and 4 am.
- Ministry of Health directives include “mandatory wearing of masks by patrons before and after consumption of food, as well as physical distance of two metres between tables at all establishments.”
- Tourists should use cashless transactions such as bank transfer, mobile money, and debit / credit cards. Mobile money can be accessed using a local Sim card. It’s easy to set up, is widely accepted and has lower transaction these than any other method.
- All tourist vehicles and boats should have an unoccupied seat between each passenger.
- Meetings and events should have maximum 30% occupancy per room / space. COVID-19 tests are mandatory for meetings of more than 20 people.
- Restaurants are now allowed to operate with a maximum 30 per cent of their occupancy.
Are private cars allowed to cross the Rwanda border?
At present am I able to cross into Uganda from Rwanda at a land border in south east Uganda? I would be going to Kisoro. I would be travelling as an individual visitor, not with a tour group. Can I walk across a border into Uganda from Rwanda to get to Kisoro?
Enquiry from a traveler.
Rwanda’s major land borders with Burundi, Tanzania and Uganda still remain closed except for returning Rwandan citizens or residents. The exception to this rule are cargo trucks, whose drivers must undergo quarantine before heading into Rwanda.
The Muzungu adds: I do know of individuals (with work permits and/or residency) who have crossed the land borders in 2021. Tourist vans are not crossing; however I have a verbatim report of this being possible if your tour company gets special permission, in advance, from Kigali. However, the process is bureaucratic and not recommended, according to a source in tourism.
Are you gorilla trekking in Rwanda?
- What are the SOPs for tracking gorillas and chimps?
- Does Rwanda have promotional prices to track gorillas in 2021?
- What do domestic tourists need to know about tourism in Rwanda?
- Do I need a COVID-19 test if I’m going on safari in Akagera National Park?
- Are Rwanda’s National Parks open?
If you’re planning to visit Rwanda’s National Parks or track the gorillas, you will need to show your negative test certificate before you are allowed to enter. The only accepted test for Volcanoes, Nyungwe and Gishwati-Mukura National Parks is RT-PCR. A negative Rapid Antigen Test RDT is acceptable for Akagera National Park. All other tourism destinations and hotels will accept either a RDT or RT – PCR test.
** I am publishing a separate blog about gorilla tracking in Rwanda during the pandemic. If you have scrolled this far and don’t see it, please contact me. New rules apply for tracking gorillas and other primates.
Have you heard of Red Rocks? Make time for authentic cultural tourism.
After the gorilla tracking experience – or as an engaging day trip from Kigali – taste authentic cultural tourism at Red Rocks Cultural Centre and Campsite in Musanze, just a few kilometres away from the gorillas. The Northern Province is best known for the gorillas but also a hub for community tourism.
Explore and discover a wide range of cultural activities: be entertained by a traditional local dancer, watch how local banana beer is made, participate in cooking Rwandese cuisine or simply enjoy storytelling by the bonfire with locals. Learn about the history of Rwanda while tasting freshly-roasted corn (maize) or potatoes.
Red Rocks also offers lessons in basket-weaving: women artisans show you how to make the traditional Agaseke basket. Visit the Red Rocks Initiatives art gallery in Kinigi, create art to take home as a souvenir and witness how arts contribute to conservation of the gorillas, and the wider environment. Visitors can buy quality basketry, craft and art souvenirs directly from the artisans at very affordable prices. This support is particularly valued now.
Red Rocks Cultural Centre was established by Greg Bakunzi to support sustainable community development. He is optimistic that local tourism will remain resilient during travel’s trying times of COVID-19. “We have been encouraging Rwandans to become domestic travellers and bridge the gap caused by the big drop in international arrivals. These local visitors have given our host families and communities confidence that gradually we shall resume full-scale tourism, despite the long haul this global pandemic has created.”
I’ve visited Red Rocks a number of times and love the buzz at their community centre.
Further reading about COVID-19 in Rwanda, government advice about travelling during the pandemic and emergency contact information.
- Info note for Passengers arriving or departing from Rwanda, Rwanda Biomedical Centre, Government of Rwanda
- A list of Frequently Asked Questions about visiting Rwanda
- COVID-19 pandemic – Rwanda stats.
- COVID-19 Information, U.S. Embassy in Rwanda
- Kigali International Airport official site
- Coronavirus. Hospital emergency contacts, Rwanda Biomedical Centre Emergency toll free number in Rwanda: 114.
- RBC Medical Team on duty at Kigali Airport 24/7: +250 781 415724 / covid@rbc.gov.rw
Have a question about travel to Rwanda? Feel free to ask a question in the comments (this will help other travellers) or contact me directly.
The future of travel in East Africa: Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome
Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome: travel post covid-19 in Uganda and East Africa
With over 40 years’ experience working in tourism and aviation in Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania, Professor Wolfgang Thome is uniquely placed to share his insights on the future of travel post covid-19 in East Africa and across the continent. If you want to know what is happening in tourism circles in Nairobi, Cape Town, the Seychelles or Lagos, Wolfgang is your man! (The above photo was taken at Kilimanjaro Airport in 2017. Pictured with us are fellow travel writers Solomon Oleny and Edgar Batte).
Travel has been impacted more than any other aspect of our lives. For some of us, that affects everything: our business, our lifestyle, our ability to spend time with close family. As we try and assess what the new normal looks like, I decided to ask Wolfgang his views. He is both a frequent traveller and in daily contact with airlines, hotels and tourism boards across Africa.
Overall, Uganda seems to be doing well with our approach to managing coronavirus. Do you think this will encourage tourists to travel to Uganda post covid-19?
Initially did Uganda indeed do very well based on the experience with past Ebola and Marburg outbreaks. Numbers kept stable but those responsible took their eyes off the ball with regard to truck drivers entering from Tanzania, Kenya and South Sudan. It took too long for them to take public input seriously and get off their high horses and institute checks before trucks were allowed to enter Uganda. What is needed is to restore public trust and confidence. ‘Beautifying’ numbers is a transparent ploy to make the country look better … yet, numbers are going up again, literally every day. We therefore have some way to go to demonstrate to potential visitors from overseas – when they are allowed to come in again without mandatory quarantine – that Uganda is safe and ready to host them.
What opportunities do you see for the Ugandan / East African tourism and travel industry post covid-19?
The main opportunity right now I see is in domestic tourism. Kenya has reached a domestic tourism percentage of over 55 percent (domestic tourists as a percentage of overall visitors). We in Uganda need to move towards such goals too. That said, discounting factors in Kenya for domestic tourists can reach 65 per cent off published rates and in some cases even more … so Uganda’s hotel and lodge operators need to take a leaf from that rebating level if domestic tourism is to truly take off. The present US Dollar rates quoted for hotels and lodges also need to go out of the window for Ugandans who want to pay in their own currency. Achieving this is possible but requires a major shift in mindset.
Read #MohammedHersi’s take on the future of the tourism industry – Post #COVID19 on Wolfgang’s website. Hersi is Chairman of the Kenya Tourism Federation.
Wolfgang, you are a speaker at a number of tourism events and exhibitions across Africa, notably AfriaDev in South Africa and Nigeria Travel Week. In your view, what is the future for big trade events like Magical Kenya and Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
I do regularly speak at major aviation and tourism events and trade shows across Africa. Unfortunately as of now, some eight such engagements have been postponed and cancelled this year. I do not see any major tourism event taking place this year and our hope is now based on 2021 and no secondary or tertiary Coronavirus infection waves.
When it comes to regional events does the Karibu – KiliFair excel as the largest such fair in Eastern Africa. The more local events like the Magical Kenya Travel Expo in Nairobi, the Swahili International Tourism Exhibition in Dar es Salaam or the Pearl of Africa Travel Expo in Kampala are focusing mainly on promoting their respective countries, which is of course why they were established. The big African tourism trade shows like the Africa Travel Week, which includes World Travel Market Africa, IBTM and ILTM, Indaba in Durban or We Are Africa in contrast promote many African safari and beach destinations and are therefore bringing larger numbers of exhibitors and trade visitors together from around the world.
What is the future for aviation travel post covid-19 in Uganda, East Africa and the African continent?
Brussels Airlines will resume European flights as of 15th of June 2020 and should be back in Entebbe, in combination with Kigali, from probably mid-July although no details are available, even for me, at this moment on how many flights they will launch with. The route to Bujumbura in Burundi is due to follow by mid-August. Kenya Airways intends to relaunch flights as of 8th of June and Safarilink and Jambojet, as soon as the Kenyan government lifts the movement restrictions in and out of Nairobi County, Mombasa County, Kwale County (Ukunda) and Kilifi County (Malindi). Please read my blog ATC News where I publish all the latest information about resumption of flights in East Africa and beyond.
At what point do you think we should reopen primate tourism and should there be limits?
While we wait for any scientific evidence on the possible virus transmission from humans to primates, is it better to err on the side of caution and not open tracking for gorillas, chimpanzees, golden monkeys and other primate species. As and when primate tourism reopens, will visitors obviously have to wear masks and may even need to be tested before being allowed to track. The timeframe for reopening depends on the advice of veterinarians and scientists and we ought to listen to their advice.
Will you be travelling this year? If so, where?
As I mentioned before, eight of my speaking engagements and attendances were cancelled while I cancelled two planned trips to Kenya between late February 2020 and now for obvious reasons: borders are still closed, air transport is not yet available and while the virus keeps spreading, in any country I may want to visit like Germany, Belgium, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana, I will not endanger myself nor my grandkids when I come home. This means that for all intent and purpose, regional and international travel for me will start again next year though I intend to use the time gained to step up travel across Uganda.
Tell us about a typical day in lockdown for you Prof.
A typical day includes my regular writing of articles and news items for ATCNews.org, the preparation of the daily #COVID19 updates at 6 am and 6 pm and, while the lockdown lasted, also a regular dose of humour under the headings #CoronaHumour #CoronaMemes.
During the day I spend as much time as I can find with my grandchildren. I take regular walks through the garden with my grandson in tow to show him birds, butterflies, insects, flowers and orchids and then devote time to cooking meals. If I cannot have a served Egg Benedict once in a while I just have to prepare them myself. What I have refrained from doing is participating in the tsunami wave of webinars and video conferences of which, when available, I read the summaries only to realise I did not miss a lot.
I hardly miss my once a week or once a fortnight trips into the city (apart from those Eggs Benedict at Kampala Serena Hotel and Mestil Hotel). I do check in regularly with key contacts via email or WhatsApp and so overall there was hardly any change in my day’s pattern compared to pre-lockdown days.
How will you proceed when the lockdown has been lifted?
Now that the lockdown has been lifted in a qualified way with the use of private vehicles possible again, I will nevertheless exercise utmost caution and restraint. My visits to the city will be far and few between while infection numbers in Uganda are still on the rise. I urge your readers to exercise similar caution and take extra care in their movements and interaction with others. Stay safe!
I hope to spend more time travelling around Uganda in the coming months. Note for example that Rainforest Lodge Mabira set to reopen on Monday 1st June 2020.
Who is Professor Wolfgang Thome?
Wolfgang is a prolific writer and blogger at ATC (Aviation, Tourism and Conservation) News. He is an aviation expert and has worked at a strategic level in tourism across East Africa for over four decades.
As lockdown eases, I will relaunch my popular ‘Introduction to Digital Marketing for Tourism’ workshops where we discuss: how hotel staff can encourage guests to write positive TripAdvisor reviews and check in on Facebook; tips for using Instagram and Facebook Business Pages; video marketing, Instastories, YouTube, Facebook Stories and WhatsApp status updates; email marketing and how to work with bloggers.
How we travel post covid-19 remains unclear but travel we will – in time. A big thank you to Wolfgang for keeping us up to date on the future of travel in East Africa. Remember to check out his blog ATCNews.org and follow him on Twitter and Facebook.
The land of 1000 … surprises! A solo exploration of Rwanda
Want to explore Rwanda? An ABC of Rwanda’s tourist accommodation – AirBnB, boutique hotels, camping and luxury lodges
A recent trip to Rwanda revealed such a wide variety of places to stay that I thought I must share them with you. Although Rwanda pitches itself as a high-end destination now – and has some wonderful luxury lodges like the remarkable Virunga Lodge – the country has a wide variety of accommodation for all budgets. It’s a very easy country to travel around too (although Ugandan friends did freak out when our vehicle started driving on the right side of the road!)
I seem to have developed this habit of leaving home for three days and returning after three weeks. It’s hard to resist the invitation to visit new places, especially when you’re already far from home (and your toothbrush is packed!)
The early morning bus from Kampala to Kigali is so much more pleasant than the night bus. (Why on earth did I take all those night buses?) I used to think I could kill a night by sleeping on the bus but sitting on the bus is no recompense for lack of a bed. I love Jaguar’s new wide ‘VIP only’ seats. There’s plenty of legroom and – hooray! – working seat belts. I’ve been using Jaguar Executive Coaches between Kampala and Kigali since 2011.
Despite rumours of bad politics between Uganda and Rwanda, I couldn’t tell whether anything was different at the border. Rwanda immigration’s new building is just having its last coat of paint. Those immigration officials must be relieved. If you cross the border late at night, they sit there in open-sided shipping containers, wearing thick jackets and suffering the cold of the damp river crossing.
At Nyabugogo bus park in Kigali, I met my new friend and kindred spirit Denis Senechal, a French-Canadian who has relocated to Rwanda’s capital with his Rwandan wife. Read my story about the cobbler of Nyabugogo bus park that I wrote while looking out of the bus window.
Denis and I swapped stories about their former life in Kampala as he drove me to the cosy and colourful Umusambi Bed and Breakfast in Kibagabaga, my home for the next few days.
After a leisurely breakfast the next morning – “don’t rush me, I’ve only been sitting at the breakfast table for an hour and a half” – I got chatting to an Australian couple who invited me to tour Inema Arts Gallery and the Caplaki craft market. I’ve managed to finance my nomad lifestyle by not visiting craft shops (so it was rather weird to be seen as a tourist).
Rwandan arts and crafts: Inema Arts Gallery and Caplaki Craft Market, Kigali
Caplaki Craft Market has excellent quality crafts – and divergent prices! Luckily we had the lovely Tony from Burundi to negotiate and whisper “don’t pay more than that” under his breath as we wandered from shop to shop.
We’d established that I could buy a snake (made from recycled bottle tops) for around 8,000 RWF (around $8). The shop next door asked for 15,000 RWF. At shop number three, the man with boozy breath said “I give you good price” and then asked me for 25,000 RWF for the same item! (He was the reminder to not buy the first thing you set your heart on).
In the afternoon, Greg Bakunzi from Red Rocks in Musanze introduced me to the Inzora Rooftop Café at Ikirezi Bookshop / Librairie Ikirezi. This stylish – bookish – café is definitely my kind of place and one I plan to revisit.
A highlight of my time in Kigali was feeling free to walk wherever I wanted. Wide (motorbike-free!) pavements and street lights make walking a pleasure. From Ikirezi Bookshop, I walked to the famous ‘peace basket’ structure that is Kigali Convention Centre. It can be seen from all corners of the city, particularly at night when it is lit in a variety of mesmerising colours. Radisson Blu Hotel forms part of the Convention Centre complex. The presidential convoy of Range Rovers with black-tinted windows sped past me as I left the hotel.
Photo highlights from Kigali and Musanze – click on the photos to reveal their location!
Did you know that Google Maps continues to work even when you’re not on Wi-Fi? (You can see who failed physics, can’t you?) To start, I logged onto the free Wi-Fi at Radisson Blu and typed my destination into the app. Google Maps traced the route and the arrow kept moving, even as I left the WiFi zone behind me to walk 5.5 km uphill and down towards Umusambi Guesthouse. Rwandans are generally polite people, and some greeted me as I walked. Walking the streets of Kigali was a wonderful experience (although not everywhere is as developed as the route between the Convention Centre and Kibagabaga, as I found out the following week when I stayed in a residential back street). First the muzungu got lost, then the moto got lost and later Google Maps dumped me in a field of maize! (But tell me, what is a travel blog without the occasional detour?)
I felt so relaxed at Umusambi Guesthouse, that it was an effort to haul myself off the sofa! I chatted in French with the guesthouse’s Belgian owner and had an eye-opening conversation with an Italian lady who is vaccinating frontline staff against Ebola. “Prevention is better than cure” and we are thankful to see numerous interventions in place across the region.
I’ve travelled by bus from Kigali to Musanze many times and it couldn’t be easier. The Virunga Express from Nyabugogo takes a couple of hours from the city as it winds upwards through some of Rwanda’s one thousand hills.
From Musanze, I took a 7 km moto(rbike) ride to the Red Rocks campsite. Here at high altitude, evenings can be cold. I was glad to have a friendly dog lying on my feet as I warmed myself at the campfire while chatting to two very cool trail-blazing chicks: Harriet, one of Red Rocks’ co-founders and Angel, one of Rwanda’s few women tour drivers.
Red Rocks Campsite and Red Rocks Initiatives, Musanze Rwanda
Red Rocks is a popular campsite with super friendly staff who make a point of greeting you with a big smile. I enjoyed chatting French with the chef. Quels petits déjeuners énormes! (The breakfasts were huge!)
Red Rocks is home to authentic community tourism and I was honoured to spend some time with Kamana Theophile, an environmentalist with a passion for community projects. In the Red Rocks Museum, he demonstrated how banana beer is made in a giant wooden canoe-type structure. (I tried some on a previous trip – it’s delicious!) Profits from Red Rocks Campsite fund the indigenous tree nursery and gardening demonstration plots. Kamana discussed in French (ooo la la) how the local community are given seedlings, learn gardening techniques and good environmental practices – all for free. Through Red Rocks Initiatives, local communities – and the environment – directly benefit from tourism. Every aspect is environmentally sound: the ‘raised bed’ kitchen garden is made of volcanic rock and tree seedlings are carried home in pots made of banana fibre (plastic bags are illegal in Rwanda and the ban is strictly enforced).
For a change of scene – we travel bloggers are rarely off-duty you know! – I was escorted to the new Classic Lodge where I did the full tour of the extensive buildings. The night before, over a thousand people had attended an event there. Had Musanze ever hosted such a large number of people?
Classic Lodge in Musanze is quite a set-up!
Here I was given a tour of the presidential suite (which President Kagame himself visited while it was under construction), a family cottage, suites, superior rooms and others. There are at least 40 different rooms and conference facilities.
Café Crema in Musanze is a cosy setup with charming and courteous staff. It’s the kind of place I love to hang out. The cappuccino was excellent, and I was happy to kill a few hours there (the first 30 minutes of WiFi are free).
Caffeine levels boosted, I dropped by the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund exhibition. It was humbling to spend a few moments reconnecting with my first reason for travelling to Rwanda, that being to support gorilla conservation.
Next stop Kigali.
The advantage of having fluid plans is you can take up new opportunities as they present themselves. The downside is you occasionally get stuck without a place to sleep! Thanks to Moses Nezehose who booked me in at the Tea House, another great establishment which is walking distance from Remera, a part of the city that I’ve come to know a little over my years of visiting Kigali.
On my first trips to the capital, I would stay at hostels run by various convents. (You can’t argue with $10 a night, even if the shower is cold). Centre Christus Hostel in Remera is set in green, bird (and monkey)-filled gardens away from the main road and I’ve been happy to stay there on several occasions.
On the second leg of my trip in Kigali, I was spoiled rotten. I spent three nights at the fabulous Pili Pili Boutique Hotel. My – it was heaven – so much so that I didn’t leave the compound for three days! My heart skipped a beat when the beautiful breakfast tray arrived in my room.
The cosmopolitan bar and brilliant music at Pili Pili were quite a thrill for this girl from the village! I loved the fresh grilled Sambaza fish from Lake Tanganyika and enjoyed my chats with Rudy, Pili Pili’s owner. I was fascinated to hear about his former life running hotels and bars in Bujambura. I visited Burundi in 2012 and really fell for the place. J’adore l’Afrique francophone!
Pili Pili Bistro and Boutique Hotel, Kigali
Pre-booked visitors ousted me from my little pad – goddamit – meaning it was time to download Air BnB and try my luck getting a cheap room in the city. Within minutes I was booked in to stay with Josiane and her four young sons. It was hard to understand where she lived so she came to meet me midway on a moto. She couldn’t have been nicer. She almost fell off her chair when I told her that Uganda is the Source of the Nile. She was quite adamant that it is in Rwanda! The debate continues…
After the comforts of a luxury set-up, it was nice to spend time with a Rwandan family. They treated me well and the meals were huge. (As for the cockroaches, well I’m glad I didn’t see any on my first night there; the longer I stayed there, the bigger the cockroaches I saw!)
I happened to be in Kigali on a Sunday when roads are closed to allow city residents space to run and exercise. Groups were exercising at Amahoro Stadium that morning as I walked to Java House in Remera where I fell in love with rhinos! Did you know Rwanda has just successfully relocated five black rhinos from Europe to Rwanda? The transformation of Akagera National Park is sensational, as I have witnessed on my last two visits there.
On my last day in Kigali, I headed to the Rwanda Development Board offices, also in Remera. Tourism, conservation and many other departments are managed by RDB. Boy what an impressive setup. Did you know that it’s free to register a business in Rwanda? Did you know that it generally takes only six hours to do that? The ‘one stop shop’ at RDB really is that. You can make bank payments, get advice from copyright specialists and immigration officials and have someone sit with you and guide you through the whole process of setting up a company, from start to finish. Let’s not do comparisons with Uganda…
Upstairs, I was delighted to see Moses, one of our hosts at the brilliant Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony. Kwita Izina is the annual celebration of conservation and tourism in Rwanda and now lasts a whole week.
Lunchtime took me back to the famous Chez Lando for my final brochettes (grilled meat on skewers) of the trip. I do enjoy Rwandan food. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – 10 snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
The final leg of my trip took me back to Kampala. Life is easy when you can jump in an Uber as soon as you hit the city outskirts! Boutique B&Bs were a bit of a theme on this trip and I was thrilled when Albert Ntambiko invited me to stay at the new Mahali Guesthouse in Makindye. Albert is also the owner of Coffee at Last. Mahali is housed in the new Coffee at Last building, just a few steps away from the original establishment.
Like I said, I seem to have this habit of leaving home for three days and returning after three weeks! Last year’s four day trip to Mombasa led to invitations to visit high-end hotels in Nyali, explore backpacker hostels and luxury beach resorts in Diani and attend Diani’s Five A Side International Beach Touch Rugby Tournament. (I arrived home three weeks later!)
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