Guide to Uganda Wildlife Authority’s fees for 2024 to 2026
Uganda Wildlife Authority Conservation Tariff (comprehensive guide to fees for park entry, primate tracking permits and more) to June 2026.
The good news is that there are very few price increases. You hardly need me to remind you how hard travel – and thus conservation revenue – has been hit during the pandemic. It’s therefore no surprise that the authorities are doing everything they can to raise money. Some might argue that we need discounts to encourage people to travel. However, given conservation’s dire finances recently, I say let’s be grateful how few price increases there are. Now let’s book that safari!
UWA’s price list covers National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees, gorilla / chimpanzee / golden monkey tracking permits, primate habituation, mountain and volcano hiking, mountain biking and boat rides on the River Nile, the Kazinga Channel and Lake Mburo – among many other activities.
A few things that the muzungu is looking forward to include:
- Hiring a boat in Toro Semliki wildlife reserve to view the Shoebill on Lake Albert.
- Kidepo Lonyilli summit hike
- Kapkwai sector of Murchison Falls National Park. (Did you know you can get free entry to Kapkwai?)
- Mount Elgon mountain biking. That must be awesome!
- Bushiyi trail extension, the shortest trail to Wagagai, the highest peak on Mount Elgon.
- Chimpanzee tracking at Ngogo (Kibale National Park) a few hundred metres from my home at Sunbird Hill
- Golden monkey habituation in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Golden monkeys are very pretty creatures!
Uganda park entry fees – Murchison Falls slight increase
Since 2022, visitors to Murchison Falls National Park have paid a little more than other protected areas. Stephen Masaba of Uganda Wildlife Authority explained to Diary of a Muzungu:
For Murchison Falls, we observed high speeding and increased road kills (especially of baboons) but have also noted littering and high levels of plastic waste. Of the number of visitors to Murchison, over 10% of these people are just in transit (crossing through the park). The slight fee increase should help curb some of these effects.
Director, Tourism and Business Development, Uganda Wildlife Authority
Although they don’t (yet) have the facilities that more established National Parks do, now might be a time to explore some of Uganda’s less visited protected areas such as Pian Upe and Katonga Wildlife Reserves.
For full details on activities not listed in the summary (game drives, nature walks, birdwatching and more) download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s full tariff for July 2024 to June 2026 here.
Planning a Uganda safari?
Did you know I have a Travel Directory full of tour operators who would love to organise a trip of a lifetime for you? Alternatively, drop me a line for travel recommendations.
Six more great reasons to track gorillas in Uganda!
Five more gorilla families available to track in Bwindi + Tracking fee increases in Uganda.
Got a thing for great apes? This is what you need to know if you want to track gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda in 2024 and beyond
There are now at least SIX* more great reasons to track gorillas in Uganda!
🦍 Did you hear that five more gorilla families are now available for tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest? Scroll down for full information.
🦍 And to make gorilla tracking even more appealing, we’ve just heard that another baby has been born in Rushaga, to the south of the forest.
*5 more gorilla families + 1 newborn gorilla = 6
Is there anything cuter than a baby gorilla?
This week brought exciting news from the Uganda Wildlife Authority: a fluffy addition to the Bikingi mountain gorilla family! The newest family member is the offspring of mother Mucecuru and fathered by Silverback Kaharata.
Five more gorilla families available for tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
With the habituation programme complete, UWA has confirmed that permits can now be booked to see the following gorilla families:
- Buhoma [northern Bwindi] – Binyindo + Muyambi families
- Nkuringo [southwest Bwindi] – Posho family
- Rushaga [southern Bwindi] – Rwigi + Tindatine families
During the course of habituation, which has taken up to four years for some gorilla families, visitors from around the world have accompanied rangers and researchers on their daily monitoring. The process of habituation gradually acclimatises wildlife to the presence of humans. It means we can safely spend time in each other’s company safely without impacting the great apes’ behaviour.
With another five habituated gorilla families, Uganda now has 194 gorilla tracking permits available every day (figure correct at date of this blog post). In addition, there are four permits available for the gorilla habituation experience.
What’s the catch?
Simultaneously, Uganda Wildlife Authority have announced price increases* to primate tracking fees, and a number of other activities, to take effect on July 1 2024. Still, with a gorilla permit in Rwanda costing a hefty $1500, Uganda’s gorilla permits continue to get snapped up very quickly, particularly during peak seasons of summer and Christmas. If you’re planning a gorilla tracking safari, you may even need to reserve permits a year in advance.
*These are the key fee changes, but scroll down for the full list.
Mountain gorilla tracking permits
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks: $800 (currently $700)
Chimp tracking permits
Kibale Forest: $250 (currently $200)
Kyambura Gorge, Queen Elizabeth National Park: $100 (currently $50)
Chimpanzee habituation permits
Kibale Forest: $300 (currently $250)
Gorilla tracking discounts for African passport holders:
Gorilla tracking permit: $500
Gorilla habituation experience: $1000
Why have the fees increased?
The revision in permit fees is a response to the increasing expenses associated with conservation, which encompasses anti-poaching campaigns, patrolling, monitoring and community development initiatives. It’s worth highlighting that a significant portion, specifically 20%, of the fees for permits and park entry is given to invest in communities neighbouring the National Parks. This ensures that experiences with primates (notably gorillas, chimpanzees and golden monkeys) contribute meaningfully to community development.
Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024
Download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s tariff for June 2024 to June 2026 for tracking permits, National Parks and Wildlife Reserves.
What’s it like to track gorillas and chimpanzees?
I’ve tracked gorillas, chimps and golden monkeys numerous times in Uganda and Rwanda and written extensively about gorilla tracking for international publications. I also work closely with gorilla and chimpanzee conservation NGOs, guides and tour operators. Got a question? Send me a message 😎
Have you seen the Giant goliath beetle?
The Giant goliath beetle! 😍 When I moved to Uganda 15 years ago my no. 1 one fear was insects – now look at me 😂
It’s amazing what interests people: one of my British friends is planning to visit me in Uganda. This is the very thing that she wants to see!
Sadly, this particular beetle was attacked by a black and white casqued hornbill. (You can see the damage to its wing).
Did you know the giant goliath beetle is the world’s heaviest beetle?
We see them occasionally at Sunbird Hill, on the edge of Kibale Forest. They love tree sap. In fact I have seen them fighting with butterflies for it. They all get drunk! Yes! Imagine this big drunken beetle flying through the air.
The Sunbird Hill team specialise in immersive nature experiences, conservation and citizen science focusing on the smaller creatures: butterflies, moths, insects, birds and snakes. I’ve written dozens of stories about our extraordinary life here.
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Yes! Travelers vote Uganda “Best Safari Country”
You read it right! 1000s of travelers and SafariBookings experts agree
For those of us who live in this insanely beautiful corner of the world, it’s no surprise to read that Uganda has just been rated “Africa’s best safari country by travelers.” This is the result of a survey by SafariBookings, the continent’s biggest online platform for tour operators and safari companies.
This remarkable performance takes into account a whole range of categories, from wildlife and scenic beauty to birding and bush credentials. Uganda was also the clear winner when it comes to Africa’s best birding-safari country, as voted by the experts.
Uganda clearly has reason to be optimistic about future surveys, as they’re hot on the heels of the current top three. Watch this space…
SafariBookings‘ verdict on Uganda as a safari destination. SafariBookings is the world’s largest resource and leading authority for planning an African safari. They check the registration papers of all tour operators, and have 92,471 traveler reviews written by people like you.
What the experts say about Uganda
We know Philip Briggs as the author of the Uganda Bradt Guide, the country’s best-known guidebook. I interviewed Briggs in Uganda. He also writes for SafariBookings.
In the same survey, SafariBookings travel experts rank Uganda as Africa’s best birding safari destination!
If you’ve been reading Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know that I love birds. Birds send my heart a flutter is a collection of some of my Uganda birdwatching stories.
New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😁🦍🌳🦁 links to popular pages and the most useful resources.
Top things to do in Kampala [UPDATED]
What’s on in Kampala?
Visitors to Uganda are often driven straight upcountry, away from the congested capital. That’s understandable since the country’s main draw are the National Parks. Also, since most visitors live in towns, you can understand they don’t find the idea of a busy city appealing. Kampala is where the crime is – like cities the world over – yet it’s dynamic (and I always feel a sense of excitement as I approach the city). Many now realise we have underestimated Kampala’s attractions and in 2022 Uganda Tourism Board opened a tourism information office in the grounds of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel.
Kampala – affectionately known by some as KLA – is a great place to live. This crazy, noisy, congested city can drive you nuts at times but there’s always something going on. Eh! I hardly know where to start…
What’s for breakfast in Kampala?
Okay, let’s start the day with coffee. Cappuccino is my personal weakness, and can now easily – although not cheaply – be found in most of Kampala’s major shopping centres, big hotels and urban areas. Some of my favourite coffee shops in Kampala include Coffee at Last in Makindye; Endiro at numerous locations (some run by deaf staff); Le Petit Village at Quality Hill on Ggaba Road, Café Kawa in Tank Hill, Muyenga and Café Pap in Parliament Avenue and Ntinda. The Southside Market at Dancing Cup in Bugolobi is a popular Saturday hang-out. CJ’s (Cafe Java’s) – at various locations – always have excellent service (and large portions, especially during Ramadan). These also serve African tea.
What’s the perfect accompaniment to morning coffee? Croissants (yes!) or beef sambosas (samosas) and of course the number one Ugandan delicacy, the famous rolex! (“Rolled eggs” omelette in a chapati). Katogo (steamed savoury banana with beans or meat) is a popular Ugandan breakfast. I love it! (Unless it contains ‘gizzards’). Yuck.
Coffee / tea break over, Kampala’s markets are excellent. There’s a market for everything but you have to be ready for haggle. Expat tip: go with a Ugandan friend, unless you want to pay ‘muzungu price’ for every other thing.
Fancy a spot of shopping?
Popular Kampala markets are Nakasero (fruit, vegetables, spices and grasshoppers) and Nakawa (everything – and slightly cheaper than the markets in town). I love Ggaba market on the edge of Lake Victoria. It’s a great place to pick up brightly coloured Tanzanian cloth (as well as all your fruit and vegetables, the cheapest mukenne and other fish, fresh or dried). (The maze-like Owino was once Kampala’s best place for second-hand clothing, shoes and bags; the packed and chaotic downtown is still the best place for all kinds of bargains).
If you’re into arts and crafts and souvenir shopping, head to the extensive ‘Daisy Arcade’ craft market on Buganda Road. There are a small number of craft shops behind the National Theatre too.
Feeling arty?
Kampala has a small but thriving art scene and most exhibitions are free. The best way to find out what’s going on is to follow them on social media. Kampala art galleries include Nommo Gallery, Afriart Gallery on Seventh Street (in the Industrial Area) and Umoja. The Uganda Museum has occasional art shows, in addition to the permanent historic displays. The museum is very dated but still has a certain appeal. It’s definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have a guided tour. Kampala’s Alliance Francaise and Goethe Institute always have a busy timetable of events.
The National Theatre in central Kampala has a programme of dance, drama and art. There are regular shows, films, dance classes and jam sessions. The best way to find out what’s on at the National Theatre is to visit in person or look for their monthly flyer.
The National Theatre was the original venue for the annual Bayimba Festival. Bayimba has since moved to Lunkulu Island on Lake Victoria.
Experience Uganda through music and dance!
The Ndere Troupe’s show is the perfect introduction to Uganda for new visitors, but honestly everyone should watch this brilliant show, more than once! The highly professional Ndere Troupe is a must-see celebration of Uganda and Africa – through traditional music and dance on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday nights. The Ndere Centre is on Kampala’s Northern Bypass. Read my blog about Ndere’s sensational musical and cultural experience.
Did you know, Kampala has the best nightlife in East Africa?
Don’t take my word for it, dive into Kampala’s nightlife! My friends from Nairobi love this party city. Downtown Kabalagala is famous from here to Kigali (Rwanda) to Goma (DRC) to Bujumbura (Burundi) and Dar (Tanzania) – and every part of East Africa in between.
Move over Acacia Avenue and Muyenga: Kisementi and Bugolobi are Kampala’s more popular nightspots these days with new bars and restaurants opening all the time. Kampala’s top hotels have Christmas programmes, New Year parties, fireworks, live music and more. Ugandans love to party anywhere! Every neighbourhood has several bars. If you like your beer cheap, just sit on a wooden bench outside your local shop. Local ‘pork joints’ are usually good value for money too (unless you’re a vegetarian of course!)
Kampala’s Industrial Area has the city’s best known nightclubs: Guvnors and Ange Noir, but you don’t need to go to a nightclub to dance. Have a few drinks and we will dance anywhere in UG!
Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix, although Kampala has 100s of cafes serving excellent coffee now).
As for getting to all these great places safely, the muzungu is a big fan of “ride hailing apps.” In 2022, Lolo was my new favourite; SafeBoda now provide cars as well as bodas. Uber and Bolt may have been first but they lost the plot during the fuel crisis, with driver after driver doubling the fees. Driving in Kampala is a favourite (tongue in cheek) blog.
Prefer to walk?
Are you interested in history and architecture? The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda has launched a book, maps and a *free* mobile phone app all about Entebbe, Jinja and Kampala’s historical buildings. It’s a fun way to tour the three towns. Read History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a free mobile app.
This page is work in progress – it merely skims the surface of Kampala!
Looking for more thngs to do in Kampala? Send me a message!
Pig on a boda
There’s nothing like waking in your own bed except that I lift my head off the pillow and felt violently sick. The sensation carries on throughout the day. Looking up makes me feel woozy and I almost fall over, more than once. I blame the potholed road for upsetting my sense of balance.
I slept early. The drive from Kampala took its toll on me this week. Large sections of the road to Fort Portal are being repaired and we drove in the heat of the day. The journey passes quickly if you chat but my friend’s thoughts were elsewhere.
The journey’s highlight was the sunset boda boda ride through Kiko tea plantation before Fort Portal. It’s another world in there: the lurid bright green of the tea bushes contrasts with the winding dusty roads, (we took more than one wrong turning) but the cut through Kiko got us through Kibale Forest before darkness fell. Baboons were still at their vigil on either side of the road. Forest raindrops caught us as we sloped down the steep slippery track towards my home at Sunbird Hill.
Waiting for my boda at the Kiko turn-off, I watched three cows amble towards the busy main road. A young man threw a stone at one. It turned in the other direction. He picked up a branch and ran towards them. It was a comical sight to watch him sprinting after the cows, his white gumboots flashing as he lifted one leg after the other! After hundred metres, the cows now safely away from the main road, he turned to walk back to the laughing boda drivers.
A third boda boda pulled up with three individuals on it, one of them being a tightly trussed-up pig! My heart went out to this poor little piggy yet I admired the deft way the animal was attached to the boda. (It’s amazing what you can do with a bit of string if you put your mind to it!)
I had not wanted to travel far from my home on the edge of Kibale Forest, but work commitments beckoned. I felt I put life on hold by leaving so soon… and how long am I back here for this time?
Back home, as the kids unpacked sacks of beans and posho from the vehicle, Hope said “Auntie Charlotte, I have a surprise for you” as she passed me a refrigerated plastic container. I removed the lid, intrigued. Was it edible?
MAWAY!
“I assume it’s dead… ?”
Whenever we find reptilian roadkill, we slam on the brakes and pick up the remains. Our freezer is full of snakes (and beetles)!
Do you like my stories? Tell me what you think!
Tanzania
The Muzungu’s top reasons to travel to Tanzania, the ‘soul of Africa’
It’s taken me a long time to visit Tanzania. There’s so much that is familiarly East African, yet so many charming delights that are uniquely Tanzanian!
Here are the muzungu’s top reasons for visiting Tanzania (click on the links for Tanzania tours)
1. Tanzania has 14 National Parks, 370 mammal species and over 1000 birds.
2. Overdose on wildlife viewing at Ngorongoro Crater. Experience the Great Migration on the Serengeti Tours” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow”>Serengeti, one of the ‘Seven Natural Wonders of Africa’ – watch it from a hot air balloon!
3. Tanzania is the base for hiking Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain
4. Relax on Tanzania’s Indian Ocean coast. Go diving!
5. Fly or take the ferry to the island archipelago of Zanzibar, famous for the islands’ white coral sand beaches
6. Tour the historical cobbled streets and Arab-influenced Stone Town, Zanzibar, celebrated for its film and music festivals. No trip to Zanzibar is complete without a spice tour!
7. Tanzania has seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the Serengeti, Selous National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Stone Town.
8. Enjoy unusual fresh juices – such as coconut ‘madafu’ and custard apple
9. Explore the Selous, Africa’s BIGGEST game reserve!
10. Explore Dar es Salaam, East Africa’s second biggest port and a melting pot of African, Arabic and Indian influences.
“Jambo” – is the Swahili greeting for “welcome” which you will hear everywhere in friendly Tanzania.
The Great Migration of one and a half million Wildebeest traverse the Mara River twice yearly between the Serengeti in Tanzania and Kenya’s Maasai Mara. Game-viewing includes huge buffalo herds, thousands of antelope, elephant and giraffe.
If you’re going to the Serengeti Tours” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow”>Serengeti, treat yourself to a hot air balloon safari! It’s a huge adventure from start to finish. Get up at the crack of dawn to watch the balloon being inflated and jump in the basket, ready for the off. Watch the sun rise as your balloon moves silently across the savannah, following the wildlife below. It’s amazing what you can see up there! A champagne and breakfast in the bush are just one part of this fabulous experience.
One of Tanzania’s most popular attractions is the Ngorongoro Crater, known as “Africa’s Garden of Eden,” home to 30,000 animals including the rare black rhino and black-maned male lions.
This jaw-dropping scenery is under the most serious of threats. Tanzania presses on with hydroelectric dam on vast game reserve. “Stiegler’s Gorge dam on the Selous park, a World Heritage Site listed as ‘in danger’, will cause irreversible damage, say conservationists.” Read The true cost of the Stiegler’s Gorge hydropower project in Tanzania (2019).
An (avoidable) environmental nightmare beckons… despite “the excellent potential of solar and wind power options.”
Did you know…?
Swahili is the official language of Tanzania but English is widely spoken.
Watch my short video: my view from the cockpit! Flight between Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam.
We flew with Precision Air on their inaugural flight in 2017 between Dar es Salaam on the Tanzanian coast and Entebbe in Uganda (however Precision don’t currently fly that route).
Click here for reviews of 100s of Tanzania tours.
Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]
Kampala expats share their experiences and advice about moving to Uganda with a young family. (It’s mostly very positive!)
I regularly receive questions about moving to work in Uganda and about expat life in Kampala. There are so many great things to say about Uganda but visiting for a couple of weeks isn’t the same as living here. If you’re travelling to the country on safari, or to track the gorillas, you may bypass the capital city entirely, but I love Kampala! It may be intense but the buzz can be addictive.
Is Uganda safe to visit? FOR COMMENTS ON LATEST NEWS, scroll down to the post comments
Below is a typical question I received via WhatsApp recently, in response to my popular post “Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats.” My posts have hundreds of questions from readers – and I reply to them all – however, I thought it would be useful to share answers to this common question. Names have been withheld but all comments are genuine.
“I am moving to Kampala in a few months with my wife and our 3 year old daughter. Of course the worst thing you can do is Google ‘is Uganda safe?’ Lots of words like terrorism and don’t travel. Can you give any info or advice on safety for a young family. I have been to Angola and Uganda for short periods by myself and must admit I felt very comfortable in Kampala. Are the current precautions in place by other governments just that or are there real issues ongoing? Thank you in advance.”
I have my own views and experiences (since moving here in 2009) but was interested in what the expat community would advise. Here are some of their comments.
Is Uganda safe? Uganda is very safe in my opinion. Crowded areas are – as everywhere in the world – places where you’ve to pay more attention but Ugandans are very homely and friendly. For me the most dangerous thing is the road in the sense of accidents.
Kampala Expat
The muzungu: I agree. Traffic and road safety are likely to be the biggest daily concern.
Crowded places are safer than empty streets in terms of violent crime, though you might get your pockets picked
Kampala Expat
One expat added “I wouldn’t recommend that women walk alone at night.”
In my humble opinion the biggest threats are the night clubs and overnight church services… and traffic. Other than that, it’s a great place to live and there is plenty for kids to do. The key in Kampala at least is to live close to work and school.
Kampala Expat
Is Uganda safe? Yes, road safety and electronic-device-thefts are the two primary concerns. Terrorism is no more a threat here than in the countries which issue the warnings – indeed is probably even less of a concern here – but is a possibility anywhere in the world, sadly. I feel like my children are safe from threat of kidnapping and such. Now the trash burning and air quality in Kampala are pretty bad. If they have any lung issues (allergies, asthma, etc.) that’s something to consider. I’m personally having health issues because of it.
Kampala Expat
Another person agreed that “The overall air quality in Kampala is bad. Wish someone had told me so I could have made a decision about it beforehand.”
I find Uganda massively child friendly having moved here from London 2 years ago. We were here for the bombs which were scary but didn’t feel like they directly targeted us. You can be in the wrong place at the wrong time but more of that kind of thing has happened in my home city than here so I guess it depends where you are coming from. My main concerns here for the kids are them getting seriously sick (not happened as yet), traffic accidents outside of Kampala as traffic is slow moving in the city so unlikely to hurt a child in a car.
Kampala Expat
The muzungu: I agree the bombings were very scary but I worked in London when we had bombs on the buses and Tube… It’s a reminder that terrorism can strike anywhere…
A mother agreed that “My kids have a much more carefree existence here in Uganda than in London.”
Thanks to all of you for the unbiased review of Uganda. Life in Uganda can be quite addictive. Once in you may find it hard to leave.
Kampala Expat
“Best practice is to forward government travel advisories straight to the bin”
Is Uganda safe? I personally stopped reading the travel advise as it makes you scared for no reason. I feel the general travel advise given by western governments about developing countries is based on the 60’s and 70’s and not much has been updated. So i generally tell people to give Uganda a trial period of 3 months as you can either love it or hate or be in the middle as the advises based on individual persons are so biased and not a representation of the local populace and country or counties. above all they should see Uganda with the local lenses.
Kampala Expat
“Uganda is a beautiful country full of really nice and friendly people. Come and have a very enjoyable life experience. Most of the above comments are correct and good advice.”
We have just arrived in Kampala 3 weeks ago. We are still finding our way around, but we generally feel safe, my biggest issue is the traffic and crazy driving and the vendors at traffic lights. Bring a car seat. Also visit the house you want to rent at night… nightclubs are 7 days a week and no mercy on the volume. Lol. We are moving already 臘♀️. But it’s not a bad place, delicious fresh fruits and vegetables from the markets, people are very friendly too. I had the same concerns coming here with my kids (3 & 7).
Kampala Expat
Is Uganda safe? The most beautiful & the most crazy. We live in a pollution-free part of Kampala, no humidifiers necessary or air cleaners & I love it so much I haven’t been back to England since I’ve left. Cost of living is amazing & the ability to grow a business & also retire at the same time is amazing. Opportunities here are in abundance & just like anywhere in the world just have to focus on your child’s habit of learning outside of the education curriculum. I wish to be able to fall in love with this city all over again outside of when initially did when I first arrived ❤️
Kampala Expat
“Is Uganda safe? Kampala is relatively safe for a city of its size and nature. It has some rough edges, but I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous except for the roads.”
The muzungu: government travel advisories are always very cautious, since if anything goes wrong, your government will have a responsibility to protect you. Sometimes, I can’t recognise the country advisories are writing about! And they are always skewed against developing countries. It is always best to check with local people if you have any doubts about the security of a destination.
The muzungu writes one last thought: Uganda has a thriving expat community of many different nationalities. You will find plenty of support for you and your family. If you’re a tourist, rest assured no-one is going to advise you to come to Uganda and put you at any known risk. Keep asking questions, listen to – and take heed of – local advice and you will have a fantastic experience!
How to photograph the mountain gorillas
Tips for taking good photos of gorillas
If you enjoy photographing wildlife, the visibility of the gorillas will be particularly important. You’ll probably be desperate to get great photos of this once in a lifetime experience to show family and friends back home.
In Uganda, it can be difficult to capture good photos under the dark canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, as the name suggests! If you are very lucky, you may encounter your gorilla family in a clearing.
In Rwanda, the vegetation tends to be more bamboo and short grass, and therefore can make for better photography, although the skies may still be grey overhead.
You will be on the move, so it’s best to get as organised as possible before you start your gorilla trek. If you hire a porter, which is highly recommended, then you can take a fair bit of kit with you.
Here are a few tips for photographing the gorillas:
If you’re taking photos using a standard point-and-shoot camera:
- Make sure your camera battery is fully charged.
- Always take extra memory cards.
- Remember that flash photography is not allowed when you are with the gorillas. Make sure you have your camera manual with you so you know how to disable the automatic flash and automatic focus light functions.
- Keep your camera and/or phone in a waterproof bag (such as a large Ziploc bag). Cue: you’re in the rainforest.
- Take a zoom lens, wide angle lens and an in-between / fixed focal length lens.
- It may be tricky to change lenses while the gorillas are moving around so take more than one camera body if you can.
- Take fast film (400-1600 ASA) if you have a film camera.
- Photographs of gorillas in the low light of the forest can appear underexposed. More experienced photographers recommend shooting at ISO 1250 or higher in the forest.
Professional filmmakers require permission and need to purchase filming permits in advance from Uganda Wildlife Authority (Uganda) or Rwanda Development Board (Rwanda).
Personal DVD recorders are allowed. It’s fairly easy to shoot videos of the mountain gorillas, as you will be close to them and they are generally slow movers.
Taking a photo with the gorillas is all part of the tracking experience. Ladies, remember to look in the mirror before you go off to see the gorillas. (My gorilla selfies are the worst!) LOL. I look so sleepy.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Are mountain gorillas endangered?
What is the conservation status of Mountain Gorillas?
Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are classified as ‘endangered’ on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species. It was only in 2018 that mountain gorillas were recategorised from the ‘critically endangered’ listing.
“Today, mountain gorillas are threatened, not due to a demand for their meat, or their infants, but due to a demand for the lush forest in which they live. For the poverty-stricken communities living around the gorilla habitat it is the forest that provides them with many of their basic human needs, and in the war torn areas of Democratic Republic of the Congo these needs are exaggerated.” The Gorilla Organization
Gorilla conservation is the number one conservation priority in Uganda and Rwanda. Gorilla tourism has helped bring the mountain gorilla population back from the brink of extinction but threats to their survival are still very real. The biggest threats to the gorillas come from humans: illegal logging of the rainforest, poaching, encroachment of land for farming and the risk of disease transmission by humans. Additionally, political instability is still a major factor affecting the Congolese population of mountain gorillas in the DRC region of the Virunga Volcanoes.
“Active conservation [of gorillas] involves simply going out into the forest, on foot, day after day after day, attempting to capture poachers, killing—regretfully—poacher dogs, which spread rabies within the park, and cutting down traps.” Dian Fossey, interviewed at her camp in Rwanda (May 1985)
The mountain gorilla population in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from a shockingly low census record of just 254* gorillas in 1981 to an estimated 880 individuals in 2013. In 2018, we were delighted to learn the combined population passed the 1,000 mark. In 2023, the cross-border census confirmed almost 1,200 individuals. (*As conservation biologist Ian Redmond OBE explained to me in our conversations for the East Africa Travel Podcast, the figure was closer to 350 individuals (not the usually quoted 250). This is because the 1981 figure did not include the entire mountain gorilla habitat).
Rangers continue to put their lives on the line every day to protect these gentle giants. Poaching of gorillas is thankfully very rare; however they can unwittingly become caught in snares set for other animals.
Rafiki – the first mountain gorilla to be killed by poachers in a decade
During lockdown of June 2020, we were appalled to learn of the killing of Rafiki, the Silverback mountain gorilla from Nkuringo, southern sector of Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. Rafiki was the first mountain gorilla to have been killed by poachers in a decade and the Nkuringo gorilla family was the first gorilla group to be habituated in the southern sector of Bwindi, in 1997. Conservation and tourism circles were in shock at this senseless killing.
This was one of the realities of the pandemic: less people in the parks (tourists, guides, rangers and researchers) meant more opportunities for poachers. With tourism closed for many months, guides and staff were home, many unpaid, and there was no ‘trickle-down effect’ to the wider community.
Justice was swift: withing a few weeks, the culprit was sentenced to 11 years in prison for a number of counts of poaching. Executive Director of Uganda Wildlife Authority, Sam Mwandha stated “This should serve as an example to other people who kill wildlife.”
Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face.
If you trek to see the mountain gorillas, you may be interested to know that a percentage of every gorilla permit fee goes to the communities living around the National Parks. The benefits of this are many: local communities receive a tangible benefit from tourism in remote parts of the country where there are few employment opportunities. This direct financial incentive encourages local people to support tourism. Entry into the national parks is strictly controlled. Before the national parks were gazetted, people entered the forest to collect firewood, burn charcoal, set snares and hunt. The promotion of farming outside the protected areas (vegetable gardens and goat rearing) and the development of alternatives to charcoal (fuel-efficient stoves and solar panels) are just some of the projects that conservation organisations promote in local opportunities.
The removal of the Batwa ‘Pygmies,’ the traditional forest dwellers, from the gorillas’ habitat was another step that the authorities took in the 1990s, when the gorilla population seemed to face certain extinction. The Batwa culture and way of life are unique. By visiting and supporting the Batwa projects (developed as alternative ways of living outside the forest that once supported them) you are directly supporting gorilla conservation.
In recent decades, many people from all over the world have dedicated their lives to the conservation of the mountain gorilla. In 1985, pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, was found dead in her home in Volcanoes National Park, believed to have been murdered by one of the poachers she fought in her protection of the gorillas. The mountain gorillas are better protected than ever, and their numbers rising slowly, but each year, rangers from Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo put their own lives in danger to protect these marvellous creatures. The ‘Galiwango, Life of a Gorilla’ animated film project pays tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of these rangers.
Which conservation organisations are working to protect the mountain gorillas?
For information on some of the conservation issues and initiatives in and around the national parks of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, visit:
- Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) is responsible for Uganda’s wildlife. UWA manages the country’s National Parks and Wildlife Reserves, under the Ministry of Tourism Wildlife and Antiquities.
- Rwanda Development Board is the government department that oversees conservation and tourism.
- Virunga National Park, DR Congo
- Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH)
- The Gorilla Organization (TGO) works with communities to protect the habitats of the Mountain Gorillas of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
- Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGF)
- Gorilla Doctors Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project
- International Gorilla Conservation Programme IGCP
- Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund MGCF
- Berggorilla & Regenwald Direckthilfe
Gorilla tracking tourism and community initiatives help raise funds and awareness about the endangered mountain gorillas yet much as mountain gorilla conservation is lauded as a success, growing human populations continue to exert pressure on protected areas. Climate change and the increase in zoonotic diseases are exacerbating these tensions. We must remain vigilant!
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Gorilla Tracking Rules [UPDATED]
What are the rules for tracking the Mountain Gorillas? Why do we need them?
- Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and Rwanda Development Board (RDB) have clear rules and regulations to protect both gorillas and the humans that track them.
- The ranger guides will do their utmost to find the gorillas for you. These conservation rangers are in frequent radio contact, constantly monitoring the health, safety and whereabouts of the mountain gorilla populations.
- Although no tourist has ever been seriously hurt by a habituated gorilla, you should always remember that an adult gorilla is several times stronger than a human, and can be disturbed by human activity, particularly if the gorillas are nursing infants or sick – or simply not in the mood to be disturbed!
- The maximum group size for tracking the gorillas is 8 to 10 people per group
- Gorilla trackers must be fit and in good health. Trekking in thick forest at heights over 2,000 metres, traversing steep mountains and ravines can be tough and frequently wet. Gorillas are susceptible to many human diseases, including COVID-19, diarrhoea, colds and the flu. You should not go gorilla tracking if you have any of these.
- Your cough or sneeze can be lethal to a gorilla. Gorilla tracking was closed for many months at the start of the pandemic but has reopened. However, stricter regulations are in place to track all mountain gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC. For example, as soon as you enter the National Park you must wear a good quality facemask. You must keep the mask on at all times. When you find the gorillas, you will be asked to put on a clean facemask.
- Gorillas can catch diseases from discarded human rubbish. Don’t litter or spit while in the gorillas’ habitat.
- Do not touch the gorillas, even if they come close. They can be very curious.
- Do not make any sudden movements.
- If a gorilla charges, do not run away. Stay calm. Slowly crouch down and avoid direct eye contact, until the gorilla moves away in its own time.
- Leave a distance of at least ten metres between you and the gorillas – although the gorillas do not always stick to this rule! If the gorillas start moving towards you, the rangers may advise you to move backwards away from them. (Pre-pandemic, experts said we should keep seven metres distance; this has been upwardly revised to 10 metres).
- Do not surround the gorillas. View them from a distance and in groups.
- One hour is allowed with the gorillas.
- Personal DVD recorders are allowed. Professional filmmakers need to purchase filming permits in advance from UWA or RDB.
- If you need to go to the toilet while you are in the forest, tell your guide, and they will dig a hole for you. Make sure you cover the hole afterwards to prevent possible transfer of disease to the gorilla population.
- You will be given a list of the Gorilla Tracking Rules with your tracking permit and reminded of them again on the morning of your gorilla trek.
- Flash photography is not allowed. It can be difficult to capture good photos of the gorillas under the dark canopy of the rainforest. If you have a film camera, fast film (400-1600 ASA) is useful.
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Packing list for tracking gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda
What equipment do I need to bring to track the gorillas? What clothes should I wear?
Since day porters are very affordable, you can pack all the recommended gorilla tracking clothing, equipment and water, without having to worry about how you will carry it.
Here’s my recommended packing list for tracking the gorillas:
- Walking boots or shoes (boots are better because they have better grip and support your ankles on hilly terrain)
- Breathable waterproof jacket and trousers. Even if it doesn’t rain, the ground and vegetation are generally wet. Wearing waterproof trousers means you can kneel to get gorilla photos or slide down slippery slopes.
- Long-sleeved shirt (to protect yourself from tree branches, the sun and insects)
- Gaiters (or long socks) to tuck long trousers into (to correct legs from scratches and keep insects out)
- A fleece or light wool sweater
- Sunglasses, sunscreen and sunhat
- Gloves to grip the vegetation (dime store or ‘pound shop’ gardening gloves are perfect!)
- Camera equipment
- A walking pole. If you don’t have one, I highly recommend taking up the offer of a walking pole or stick. Sometimes the lodge provides them, other times, the guide may cut one for you from bamboo. Even one pole can be a big help for climbing up and easing yourself back down steep or muddy hills
- Include plenty of water. Hydration is very important. Your lodge should provide you with a packed lunch and drinking water. (Don’t be afraid to ask for more than one bottle!)
- Tips (at your discretion) for your rangers and porter
- Lastly and most importantly: don’t forget to take your gorilla trekking permit and your passport (or the identification you used when reserving your permit). You will need to show your ID at the pre-tracking briefing.
- Pack all of this in a small backpack
Mornings in the mountains can be cool and nights can be surprisngly cold. You will probably experience mist and quite possibly rain while you are tracking the gorillas. It can also get quite hot, from the sun and/or the hiking uphill. Layered clothing is recommended, ideally the ‘wick-away’ moisture type.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
