How to eat like a Rwandan – 10 snacks I bet you haven’t tried
An introduction to Rwandan foods – a snacking guide for hungry travellers!
Trying new foods is such an integral part of the travel experience.
As well as the regular packets of biscuits and bottles of sodas and water, the small bus park in Musanze (stop off point for tracking the gorillas in Rwanda) has an interesting selection of snacks for the traveller.
Rwanda seems remarkably free from the heavy, starchy snacks like chapatti, mandazi and ‘defenders’ (‘defender from hunger’ cakes), and even sambosas (samosas) that we have everywhere in Uganda.
In Rwanda, you might break up your bus journey by munching on:
- Hard-boiled eggs, served with hot akabanga chilli oil of course!
- Fresh groundnuts in their shells
- Cape gooseberries – in a plastic bag! – in Rwanda?
- Strings of bright orange tangerines
- Igikwanga (chewy snack made of cassava flour) pictured above. On its own igikwanga has little taste. Eat it with groundnuts and it’s rather interesting.
- Strings of sweet tree tomatoes (it’s rare to see these in Uganda)
I really enjoy Rwandan food and have been known to bring a few titbits back with me to Uganda. Some of the favourite items I’ve found so far are:
- Nyirangarama strawberry jam. I love strawberries and they are rare to find in Uganda. This strawberry jam is made in Rwanda. It’s delectable and full of fruit.
- Gishwati cheese. This mild flavoured Gouda-type cheese is very moorish and can withstand a two-day journey back to my village in western Uganda! It’s better priced than any such quality cheese in Uganda. Did you know Gishwati – Mukura is Rwanda’s newest National Park?
- At Red Rocks Initiatives in Musanze, I tasted potato wine and banana beer. My friend David loved the banana beer so much, he wrote a whole story about it.
- Rwanda is known for its good quality tea and coffee. Tourists that track the gorillas are given smart-looking presentation boxes of tea or coffee as a memento of their experience.
- Akagera ‘buffer honey’ is harvested from beehives near the boundary of Akagera National Park.
- Nyirangarama must be Rwanda’s most popular stopover – and the BEST place I’ve found in East Africa for enjoying baked (Irish) potatoes! I’m drooling just remembering them. They are big, cheap and always ready. They also sell chips. The shop next door sells whole Gishwati cheese, akabanga chilli oil, fresh bread, mandazi (donuts), strawberry yoghurt, Uganda Waragi, takeaway buffet and other snacks. (There’s a free – clean – toilet nearby too).
- If you’re staying at a tourist hotel, you can often get a packed lunch to take on your journey. The lunch box provided by the Kigali Serena Hotel is one of the smartest I’ve seen. I particularly like the local products.
- However, by far my favourite takeaway on my last trip to Rwanda was this fantastic sambaza (fish) and matooke chips lunch! Thank you and murakoze to Bethany Hotel on Lake Kivu for this filling and tasty lunch.
These are some of my favourite Rwandan snacks and foods – and I haven’t even mentioned brochettes and the excellent beers!
Trying local food is such an important part of my travels and so is taking public transport, but beware the ‘helpful porter’ at Musanze who grabs hold of your bag as you exit the bus and demands 500 Rwanda francs to haul it 100 metres!
“No way!” I told him. “I dragged my heavy bag for 20 minutes and no-one paid me!” I joked indignantly in a language he did not understand. I pulled a face and the price dropped to 100 RWF – for a service I didn’t really need.
Which are your favourite East African foods? If you are in Uganda, it may be the rolex! Mombasa street food is a favourite of mine too.
The year of saying YES
Revenge travel: with the freedom to travel again, in 2022 I said yes to every travel opportunity that came my way!
Before 2023 swallows me in a frenzy of work, I’m taking a moment to reflect on the 365 days in which I continued to piece my life back together as the world reopened for tourism. Just as we were getting up to speed post-pandemic (with summer bookings almost as busy as 2019) Uganda tourism was dealt a blow by the recurrence of Ebola. Would you believe it, we groaned collectively. Tour operators had only just resumed “real work” after two years of farming goats and washing cars; but anyway THANKFULLY the Ebola outbreak has officially been declared over, so let me say no more.
If 2020 was a write-off, and we “woke up” mid-2021, I’ll sum up 2022 as the year I said a resounding yes to everything. (And if 2021 was the year of the big resignation, surely 2022 must have been the year of the big burnout!) In 2022, I was so busy looking for new opportunities and answering travel queries that there was little time for creative writing on my beloved blog. Don’t worry dear reader – or listener? – in 2023, I promise to inspire you once more! This year’s project is a podcast, launching soon… but first…
Fodor’s Travel’s Complete Guide to the African Safari
One of 2022’s highlights was updating the Uganda and Rwanda chapters of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Fodor’s have been writing guidebooks for over 80 years.
If you’re researching a destination listed in this blog post, know that I have visited them personally in 2022. This means that you can read about them in the Fodor’s Guide or send me an enquiry. This post is a compilation of 2022’s social media updates. Stand-out moments – which made the long drives, Bwindi’s terrible roads, and the endless proof-reading of the guidebook worth it! – include:
UGANDA travel highlights
- Listening to hyenas howling as I stretched out in bed at the glorious Ishasha Wilderness Camp, southern Queen Elizabeth National Park.
- Adding five ‘lifers’ to my bird list in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park during my stay at Mount Gahinga Lodge.
- Celebrating the tenth anniversary of Rwakobo Rock Lodge in Lake Mburo.
- Ferry rides and kayaking in search of otters on the very cool Banda Island, Kalangala (Ssese Islands).
- Dinner at the Bungee Bar overlooking the River Nile at Jinja.
- The Uganda Railway Museum at Jinja railway station.
- Driving across the Nile’s ferocious white waters at Karuma Falls en route to Pakwach and West Nile.
- Being one of the judges of the Miss Rwenzori Tourism Final in Kasese.
- Flying over Lake Victoria and Lake Mutanda towards the Virunga volcanoes with Aerolink.
- Driving every rocky road around Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, from Nkuringo to Rushaga, Ruhija and Buhoma.
- Visiting every lodge in Lake Mburo National Park.
- Buying straw hats in Mbarara!
- Taking a tour of Emburura Farm Lodge.
What an amazing welcome we had from the Batwa community of Mgahinga. Interaction with this ancient forest tribe are always memorable. I asked to have my photo taken with Stephen, one of the elders. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village! What a giggle. I was in Mgahinga near Kisoro to write about Volcanoes Safaris’ Retreat “Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes conservation challenges 2022 to 2050.”
Prince Wasajja of Buganda Kingdom completed the 21km run at the Rwenzori Marathon in western Uganda. Kasese town was painted green and the streets were lined with curious bystanders who couldn’t believe their town had become the talk of the country for a weekend. For many Kampala friends, this was their first visit. That shows you the power of sporting events in putting a destination on the map. 2023 is set to be even bigger for Kasese!
Murchison Falls Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog
I was curious to see the new tarmac road that bisects Murchison Falls National Park (still under construction in some areas). I hate that Uganda is drilling for oil in a Protected Area but the drive to the Top of the Falls is certainly easier than before. We all gasped when we were hit by spray from the river! (Thankfully the cameras and phones survived). We passed through Murchison on our way back from Arua in West Nile.
Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron is one of my favourite stories from Murchison.
There is so much to write about West Nile:
- firstly the BIG smiles
- diverse cultures of tribes that are local to the region
- a list of invitations to numerous waterfalls
- mountain hikes
- hot springs
- Emin Pasha’s Fort
- Congolese music
- smoked Angala fish
- Amin’s Trail
- Colourful kitenge material sold by South Sudanese ladies at the Friday market
The people of Arua loved my 10 little-known things to do in Arua written after an earlier visit.
What are we without culture?
Mungu and I spent an enthralling hour with Tutu, Director of the Madi Lugbara Community Museum in Arua, West Nile, northwestern Uganda. I loved the museum’s simplicity. Moreover, the items displayed aren’t dusty items that sit forgotten on a shelf. “Go to the villages in West Nile” says John “and you will see all these items in daily use.”
Protecting traditional culture starts by listening to our elders’ stories, learning the lessons captured by song, engaging with passionate people like Tutu. He brought everything in the museum to life with his insightful, frequently funny, stories. The Madi Lugbara Community Museum is in Arua town. It’s one of many community museums across Uganda. They are mostly run by volunteers and all need our support.
One of the great things about writing a blog is meeting all kinds of interesting people [do say hi!] While I was checking out hotels and restaurants in Kampala for Fodor’s Travel, tour guide Joan came to say hello. She’s a ‘Top Fan’ of my Facebook page so it was wonderful to meet in person. The staff at the 5- star Kampala Serena Hotel are always smart, courteous and friendly. It’s a real privilege to stay there.
On a half-day “boda boda tour” of 7 crater lakes, we stopped at a tea plantation on the edge of Kibale Forest. I was over the moon when one of the tea-pickers handed me the “jerrycan shears” and gave me a chance to pick my own tea! Tea + Ugandan jerrycan invention = pure joy for a Brit like me (a big tea drinker).
Cool way to spend the weekend alert! If you’re looking for a bit of an adventure without traveling far from Kampala, I recommend this half day tour: I jumped in a wooden boat at Ggaba for a 20km bike ride along the marram dirt roads of Mukono. I came back feeling super relaxed… (and dusty and sweaty!) If you have your own bike, you can join Sunday bike rides around Kampala at zero cost. Contact the Muzungu for more info.
RWANDA travel highlights
Stand-out moments included:
- Being back in Rwanda after three long years!
- Eating sambaza fish while listening to Congolese music in Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – a few snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
- Chatting conservation with Rwanda Development Board at Gishwati Mukura National Park, Rwanda’s newest protected area.
- Sipping tea and nibbling homemade biscuits on the terrace at Virunga Lodge, overlooking the twin lakes of Bulera and Ruhondo.
- Gawping in awe at the world-class Ellen de Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Kinigi, close to the start of the gorilla tracking.
- Having The Best Massage Of My Life at the five-star Maisha Spa at Kigali Serena Hotel.
- Drinking tea on the balcony of Virunga Lodge overlooking Lake Burera.
- Reconnecting with Greg Bakunzi of Red Rocks. Their cool campsite in Musanze is a centre for adventure, art and cultural learning. The community benefit directly from t heourists.
- Hearing stories about Dian Fossey from Gaudence, the owner of the legendary Muhabura Hotel, where Fossey used to stay.
In May 2022, I saw for myself how easy it is to enter Rwanda at the snazzy new Gatuna “one stop shop” border post.
After years of cross-border bus trips, it was interesting to cross the border in a tourist vehicle. First my guide Rashid had to buy COMESA insurance; at the border he had to ‘clear’ the vehicle with the Uganda Revenue Authority and Immigration. Here we were both issued with an Interstate Pass (part of the East Africa Tourist Visa which all EAC citizens and residents are eligible for). Lastly, our bags were scanned and searched – don’t accidentally carry a cavera (plastic bag) into Rwanda!
In Kigali, Rwanda, we caught up with Dr Andrew G. Seguya who heads the Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration (and was the longest serving ED at Uganda Wildlife Authority). GVTC is best known for protecting the mountain gorillas that range between Rwanda, Uganda and the DR Congo. Have you heard of the pledge to protect gorillas? Gorilla tracking tourists are encouraged to commit to protecting the gorillas from human diseases by signing the www.gorillafriendly.org pledge.
Have you visited Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu?
This chilled-out small town borders the DRC town of Goma and is great for a long weekend. The buffet breakfast at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel is to die for! Their new gym opened in time for CHOGM in 2022 and the hotel has added mountain bike hire and birdwatching to their list of activities.
Have you heard of Gishwati-Mukura National Park?
Rwanda’s conservation and tourism visions are bold and inspiring. The new national park, created in 2016, is in fact two (severely degraded) forest fragments. An ambitious plan is in place to develop tourism activities (hiking, birdwatching, chimpanzee tracking and cultural experiences). A tree planting programme is visibly helping prevent soil erosion, protect rivers, improve biodiversity and – crucially – provide firewood for local communities. I’ve been following Gishwati-Mukura’s evolution closely since writing a blog for Albertine Rift Conservation Society in 2019.
Fancy sleeping in Dian Fossey’s room?
Gaudence’s family knew pioneer gorilla conservationist Dian Fossey well and shared some interesting stories about Fossey’s stays there. Did you know you can stay in the very room where Fossey slept? (For a premium price). You can guess where the muzungu wanted to sleep! (Unfortunately I arrived when the room was being renovated).
KENYA travel highlights
Nairobi’s matatus are legendary! Each one is a work of art.
Work it baby (More reasons to celebrate 2022)
Thank you to everyone who voted for me in the Top 100 Women in Travel and Tourism in Africa. I felt honoured to be nominated and bowled over to come at no. 2 in the online vote!
Training assignments led me across East Africa: digital marketing training in Jinja, Kampala, Fort Portal and West Nile; a community-based tourism webinar from Sunbird Hill for the East Africa Tourism Platform. Other work highlights included being speaking live to readers of the U.K.’s Wanderlust Magazine; a digital marketing presentation at Uganda’s inaugural Adventure Tourism Expo; On Uganda podcast interview; judging Uganda’s annual Travel Writing Competition. The year ended on a high with an invitation to Nairobi to co-lead a day discussing responsible tourism (one of my favourite subjects) with Kenyan content creators, Ecotourism Kenya and Kenya Tourism Board. (Thank you Barbara!)
Did 2022’s travels make up for lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest?
That time was enchanting in many ways and I remain grateful every day (as my #LockdownDiaries attest) but I took the isolation hard. I confess: 2022’s carbon footprint was off the scale and this year I am committed to offsetting my travels. I’m also committed to launching a podcast, a project inspired by being locked down with nature. More on that very soon!
Lastly, you’re always welcome to contact me for travel recommendations or check out my Travel Directory.
Travel to Rwanda during COVID-19: step by step guide
How to prepare for travel to Rwanda during the COVID-19 pandemic
This article is for everyone who is planning to travel to Rwanda in 2021, whether ‘arriving, transferring, transiting or departing.’ I am updating this post regularly with traveller feedback, answers to Frequently Asked Questions about COVID-19 (Coronavirus), information from tour operators and guides in Rwanda and the Rwanda Development Board. Travel restrictions and protocols are subject to constant change so please post any questions in the comments or message the Muzungu directly for the latest Rwanda travel advice.
Rwanda recorded its first confirmed case of COVID-19 on March 14, 2020. The City of Kigali was in lockdown in 2021 but has reopened with numerous Standard Operating Procedures in place. Scroll down to the comments for links to latest lockdown news for Rwanda
Planning a trip to Uganda? For travel advice on similar topics, read Entebbe International Airport Uganda: travel in the new normal. Planning a trip to Kenya? Read Kenya still open to international tourists.
Kigali International Airport, Rwanda’s main airport, is open
With the world set to continue life in the ‘new normal,’ the Rwandan capital’s airport at Kanombe is operating again. Once you arrive at Kigali International Airport, you’ll go through a new set of procedures as you enter ‘the land of a thousand hills.’ I have tried to list the new requirements in chronological order.
With so many changes, it is good to know that visa on arrival remains available for all visitors to Rwanda.
How to prepare for travel to Rwanda during the pandemic
- Do you need a negative COVID-19 test to fly to Rwanda?
- What are the SOPs (protocols) at Kigali International Airport?
- Is it true that I need a second COVID-19 test on arrival in Rwanda?
- Can I get visa on arrival in Rwanda?
- What if I am unable to get a test before I fly?
FAQs about quarantine in Rwanda
- Will I need to quarantine when I arrive in Kigali?
- How can I reach my quarantine hotel if I land during curfew?
- Can friends or family pick people from Kigali Airport?
- How do I book one of Rwanda’s official quarantine hotels?
- How long is the quarantine period in Rwanda?
- What are the protocols for passengers transiting Rwanda in 2021?
FAQs about COVID-19 tests in Rwanda
- How much does a COVID-19 test cost in Rwanda?
- Which COVID-19 test is required by the Rwandan government?
- Which COVID-19 test is required to track the gorillas in Rwanda?
- Who pays for my treatment if I test positive for COVID-19 in Rwanda?
PRE-DEPARTURE
Have a COVID-19 test. The only accepted test is a SARS-CoV 2 Real Time Polymerase Chain Reaction (RT-PCR) performed within 72 hours of departure time. (NOTE April 2021: not 120 hours as it was initially).
Click here to complete the Passenger Locator Form before boarding the plane to Rwanda. Include passport details and full travel info (including hotel bookings) and upload the COVID-19 test certificate The only exemptions are: travellers under 16 years old who are traveling with a parent or guardian, provided that their details are included on the parent or guardian’s form; they arrive and leave together; and stay at the same address in Rwanda. The information on the form will be used if you (or someone you’ve been in contact with while traveling to Rwanda) develops symptoms of coronavirus (COVID-19). The form must be submitted before departure. Look out for the email confirmation which will give your Unique Health Code (UHC) that you’ll be asked to show upon arrival in Rwanda.
Book one of Rwanda’s designated quarantine hotels. This list is dated December 2020.
ARRIVAL AT KIGALI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT
All COVID-19 standard operating procedures (SOPs) are strictly observed at Kigali International Airport; screening procedures include body temperature check.
Inbound travellers (arriving or transiting) in Kigali Airport are required to present a certificate of a negative COVID-19 test. All arrivals must check in at one of the designated ‘quarantine hotels’ where you will be tested again, at your own expense. The RT-PCR COVID-19 test currently costs $50 USD (47,200 RWF) in Rwanda and payment can be made on the test appointment website. Test results will be sent by SMS or email. The turnaround time for results is 24 hours from the time a sample is collected.
The Government of Rwanda has negotiated special rates at a long list of designated hotels in in Kigali and Rusizi in different price categories for the 24-hour waiting period. The special hotel rate includes airport pick-up and is full board (three meals).
The hotel quarantine period is 24 hours while you wait for your test results. The test result is valid for five days (120 hours).
If a traveller tests positive for COVID-19 while in Rwanda, they will be isolated in a government-run treatment centre or a hotel at your own cost. You will not be permitted to leave Rwanda until you receive a negative PCR test result, which could take several weeks from the first detection of your infection. This applies even if asymptomatic.
FAQs about transit through Kigali, Rwanda
- I am passing through Kigali in transit. Do I need a COVID-19 test?
- There is no facility for me to get a COVID-19 test before I fly to Rwanda. What can I do?
Yes. Like other passengers, transit travellers will be screened upon arrival in Rwanda. However, beyond that it’s not clear – protocol for further tests depend on whether you are leaving the airport and for how long.
Visitors who are not able to test in their country of origin have the option of being tested twice in Rwanda. The first test will be done upon arrival at Kigali International Airport and the second test will be taken 48 hours post-arrival. Visitors will wait for their results at designated hotels and will only be allowed to visit tourist sites after two consecutive negative tests.
FAQs about flying out of Kigali
- Do you need a negative PCR test to fly from Rwanda?
- How many hours do you need to arrive at the airport before your flight?
- Where can you get COVID-19 tests done in Kigali?
- What if my flight from Kigali takes off during curfew?
The Government of Rwanda has a zero-tolerance policy for exporting positive cases of COVID-19.
Travellers departing from Rwanda must also have a negative RT-PCR COVID-19 test within 120 hours (and not less than 48 hours) before departure.
These tests are available at Rwandan Biomedical Centre (RBC) located in Kigali city centre. Rwandan Biomedical Centre has recently opened a testing facility in Musanze, the perfect location for gorilla tracking tourists who need to get the PCR test before heading to the airport. Booking and payment can be made on the test scheduling website. PCR test results are normally sent by SMS within 48 hours and available on RBC’s COVID-19 Test Results Portal. You will need to print out this travel certificate and have it ready to show at the entry to Kigali Airport.
The virus prevention measures and additional health screenings at the airport mean you’ll need to allow extra time. Four hours is recommended.
Government regulations during COVID-19 that tourists need to know
- Do you have to wear a mask in public in Rwanda?
- Is public transport working in Rwanda during the pandemic?
- Can I take a moto (motorbike ride) in Kigali?
- What are the curfew hours in Rwanda?
- How can I find a reputable tour company in Rwanda?
Face masks must be worn at all times in public. Major public facilities have temperature checks in place and most government buildings ask you to provide locator (contact tracing) information before they’ll let you in.
Rwanda COVID-19 update March 2021:
- The Kigali lockdown has been lifted. Private vehicles and taxis are allowed to take tourists across the country, to have COVID-19 test appointments or to go to Kigali airport to exit the country. If you’re looking for a reputable tour company in Rwanda, visit my Travel Directory.
- A curfew is in force from between 9 pm and 4 am.
- Ministry of Health directives include “mandatory wearing of masks by patrons before and after consumption of food, as well as physical distance of two metres between tables at all establishments.”
- Tourists should use cashless transactions such as bank transfer, mobile money, and debit / credit cards. Mobile money can be accessed using a local Sim card. It’s easy to set up, is widely accepted and has lower transaction these than any other method.
- All tourist vehicles and boats should have an unoccupied seat between each passenger.
- Meetings and events should have maximum 30% occupancy per room / space. COVID-19 tests are mandatory for meetings of more than 20 people.
- Restaurants are now allowed to operate with a maximum 30 per cent of their occupancy.
Are private cars allowed to cross the Rwanda border?
At present am I able to cross into Uganda from Rwanda at a land border in south east Uganda? I would be going to Kisoro. I would be travelling as an individual visitor, not with a tour group. Can I walk across a border into Uganda from Rwanda to get to Kisoro?
Enquiry from a traveler.
Rwanda’s major land borders with Burundi, Tanzania and Uganda still remain closed except for returning Rwandan citizens or residents. The exception to this rule are cargo trucks, whose drivers must undergo quarantine before heading into Rwanda.
The Muzungu adds: I do know of individuals (with work permits and/or residency) who have crossed the land borders in 2021. Tourist vans are not crossing; however I have a verbatim report of this being possible if your tour company gets special permission, in advance, from Kigali. However, the process is bureaucratic and not recommended, according to a source in tourism.
Are you gorilla trekking in Rwanda?
- What are the SOPs for tracking gorillas and chimps?
- Does Rwanda have promotional prices to track gorillas in 2021?
- What do domestic tourists need to know about tourism in Rwanda?
- Do I need a COVID-19 test if I’m going on safari in Akagera National Park?
- Are Rwanda’s National Parks open?
If you’re planning to visit Rwanda’s National Parks or track the gorillas, you will need to show your negative test certificate before you are allowed to enter. The only accepted test for Volcanoes, Nyungwe and Gishwati-Mukura National Parks is RT-PCR. A negative Rapid Antigen Test RDT is acceptable for Akagera National Park. All other tourism destinations and hotels will accept either a RDT or RT – PCR test.
** I am publishing a separate blog about gorilla tracking in Rwanda during the pandemic. If you have scrolled this far and don’t see it, please contact me. New rules apply for tracking gorillas and other primates.
Have you heard of Red Rocks? Make time for authentic cultural tourism.
After the gorilla tracking experience – or as an engaging day trip from Kigali – taste authentic cultural tourism at Red Rocks Cultural Centre and Campsite in Musanze, just a few kilometres away from the gorillas. The Northern Province is best known for the gorillas but also a hub for community tourism.
Explore and discover a wide range of cultural activities: be entertained by a traditional local dancer, watch how local banana beer is made, participate in cooking Rwandese cuisine or simply enjoy storytelling by the bonfire with locals. Learn about the history of Rwanda while tasting freshly-roasted corn (maize) or potatoes.
Red Rocks also offers lessons in basket-weaving: women artisans show you how to make the traditional Agaseke basket. Visit the Red Rocks Initiatives art gallery in Kinigi, create art to take home as a souvenir and witness how arts contribute to conservation of the gorillas, and the wider environment. Visitors can buy quality basketry, craft and art souvenirs directly from the artisans at very affordable prices. This support is particularly valued now.
Red Rocks Cultural Centre was established by Greg Bakunzi to support sustainable community development. He is optimistic that local tourism will remain resilient during travel’s trying times of COVID-19. “We have been encouraging Rwandans to become domestic travellers and bridge the gap caused by the big drop in international arrivals. These local visitors have given our host families and communities confidence that gradually we shall resume full-scale tourism, despite the long haul this global pandemic has created.”
I’ve visited Red Rocks a number of times and love the buzz at their community centre.
Further reading about COVID-19 in Rwanda, government advice about travelling during the pandemic and emergency contact information.
- Info note for Passengers arriving or departing from Rwanda, Rwanda Biomedical Centre, Government of Rwanda
- A list of Frequently Asked Questions about visiting Rwanda
- COVID-19 pandemic – Rwanda stats.
- COVID-19 Information, U.S. Embassy in Rwanda
- Kigali International Airport official site
- Coronavirus. Hospital emergency contacts, Rwanda Biomedical Centre Emergency toll free number in Rwanda: 114.
- RBC Medical Team on duty at Kigali Airport 24/7: +250 781 415724 / covid@rbc.gov.rw
Have a question about travel to Rwanda? Feel free to ask a question in the comments (this will help other travellers) or contact me directly.
The future of travel in East Africa: Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome
Interview with Prof. Wolfgang Thome: travel post covid-19 in Uganda and East Africa
With over 40 years’ experience working in tourism and aviation in Uganda, Kenya and Tanzania, Professor Wolfgang Thome is uniquely placed to share his insights on the future of travel post covid-19 in East Africa and across the continent. If you want to know what is happening in tourism circles in Nairobi, Cape Town, the Seychelles or Lagos, Wolfgang is your man! (The above photo was taken at Kilimanjaro Airport in 2017. Pictured with us are fellow travel writers Solomon Oleny and Edgar Batte).
Travel has been impacted more than any other aspect of our lives. For some of us, that affects everything: our business, our lifestyle, our ability to spend time with close family. As we try and assess what the new normal looks like, I decided to ask Wolfgang his views. He is both a frequent traveller and in daily contact with airlines, hotels and tourism boards across Africa.
Overall, Uganda seems to be doing well with our approach to managing coronavirus. Do you think this will encourage tourists to travel to Uganda post covid-19?
Initially did Uganda indeed do very well based on the experience with past Ebola and Marburg outbreaks. Numbers kept stable but those responsible took their eyes off the ball with regard to truck drivers entering from Tanzania, Kenya and South Sudan. It took too long for them to take public input seriously and get off their high horses and institute checks before trucks were allowed to enter Uganda. What is needed is to restore public trust and confidence. ‘Beautifying’ numbers is a transparent ploy to make the country look better … yet, numbers are going up again, literally every day. We therefore have some way to go to demonstrate to potential visitors from overseas – when they are allowed to come in again without mandatory quarantine – that Uganda is safe and ready to host them.
What opportunities do you see for the Ugandan / East African tourism and travel industry post covid-19?
The main opportunity right now I see is in domestic tourism. Kenya has reached a domestic tourism percentage of over 55 percent (domestic tourists as a percentage of overall visitors). We in Uganda need to move towards such goals too. That said, discounting factors in Kenya for domestic tourists can reach 65 per cent off published rates and in some cases even more … so Uganda’s hotel and lodge operators need to take a leaf from that rebating level if domestic tourism is to truly take off. The present US Dollar rates quoted for hotels and lodges also need to go out of the window for Ugandans who want to pay in their own currency. Achieving this is possible but requires a major shift in mindset.
Read #MohammedHersi’s take on the future of the tourism industry – Post #COVID19 on Wolfgang’s website. Hersi is Chairman of the Kenya Tourism Federation.
Wolfgang, you are a speaker at a number of tourism events and exhibitions across Africa, notably AfriaDev in South Africa and Nigeria Travel Week. In your view, what is the future for big trade events like Magical Kenya and Uganda’s Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo?
I do regularly speak at major aviation and tourism events and trade shows across Africa. Unfortunately as of now, some eight such engagements have been postponed and cancelled this year. I do not see any major tourism event taking place this year and our hope is now based on 2021 and no secondary or tertiary Coronavirus infection waves.
When it comes to regional events does the Karibu – KiliFair excel as the largest such fair in Eastern Africa. The more local events like the Magical Kenya Travel Expo in Nairobi, the Swahili International Tourism Exhibition in Dar es Salaam or the Pearl of Africa Travel Expo in Kampala are focusing mainly on promoting their respective countries, which is of course why they were established. The big African tourism trade shows like the Africa Travel Week, which includes World Travel Market Africa, IBTM and ILTM, Indaba in Durban or We Are Africa in contrast promote many African safari and beach destinations and are therefore bringing larger numbers of exhibitors and trade visitors together from around the world.
What is the future for aviation travel post covid-19 in Uganda, East Africa and the African continent?
Brussels Airlines will resume European flights as of 15th of June 2020 and should be back in Entebbe, in combination with Kigali, from probably mid-July although no details are available, even for me, at this moment on how many flights they will launch with. The route to Bujumbura in Burundi is due to follow by mid-August. Kenya Airways intends to relaunch flights as of 8th of June and Safarilink and Jambojet, as soon as the Kenyan government lifts the movement restrictions in and out of Nairobi County, Mombasa County, Kwale County (Ukunda) and Kilifi County (Malindi). Please read my blog ATC News where I publish all the latest information about resumption of flights in East Africa and beyond.
At what point do you think we should reopen primate tourism and should there be limits?
While we wait for any scientific evidence on the possible virus transmission from humans to primates, is it better to err on the side of caution and not open tracking for gorillas, chimpanzees, golden monkeys and other primate species. As and when primate tourism reopens, will visitors obviously have to wear masks and may even need to be tested before being allowed to track. The timeframe for reopening depends on the advice of veterinarians and scientists and we ought to listen to their advice.
Will you be travelling this year? If so, where?
As I mentioned before, eight of my speaking engagements and attendances were cancelled while I cancelled two planned trips to Kenya between late February 2020 and now for obvious reasons: borders are still closed, air transport is not yet available and while the virus keeps spreading, in any country I may want to visit like Germany, Belgium, Zimbabwe, Zambia and Botswana, I will not endanger myself nor my grandkids when I come home. This means that for all intent and purpose, regional and international travel for me will start again next year though I intend to use the time gained to step up travel across Uganda.
Tell us about a typical day in lockdown for you Prof.
A typical day includes my regular writing of articles and news items for ATCNews.org, the preparation of the daily #COVID19 updates at 6 am and 6 pm and, while the lockdown lasted, also a regular dose of humour under the headings #CoronaHumour #CoronaMemes.
During the day I spend as much time as I can find with my grandchildren. I take regular walks through the garden with my grandson in tow to show him birds, butterflies, insects, flowers and orchids and then devote time to cooking meals. If I cannot have a served Egg Benedict once in a while I just have to prepare them myself. What I have refrained from doing is participating in the tsunami wave of webinars and video conferences of which, when available, I read the summaries only to realise I did not miss a lot.
I hardly miss my once a week or once a fortnight trips into the city (apart from those Eggs Benedict at Kampala Serena Hotel and Mestil Hotel). I do check in regularly with key contacts via email or WhatsApp and so overall there was hardly any change in my day’s pattern compared to pre-lockdown days.
How will you proceed when the lockdown has been lifted?
Now that the lockdown has been lifted in a qualified way with the use of private vehicles possible again, I will nevertheless exercise utmost caution and restraint. My visits to the city will be far and few between while infection numbers in Uganda are still on the rise. I urge your readers to exercise similar caution and take extra care in their movements and interaction with others. Stay safe!
I hope to spend more time travelling around Uganda in the coming months. Note for example that Rainforest Lodge Mabira set to reopen on Monday 1st June 2020.
Who is Professor Wolfgang Thome?
Wolfgang is a prolific writer and blogger at ATC (Aviation, Tourism and Conservation) News. He is an aviation expert and has worked at a strategic level in tourism across East Africa for over four decades.
As lockdown eases, I will relaunch my popular ‘Introduction to Digital Marketing for Tourism’ workshops where we discuss: how hotel staff can encourage guests to write positive TripAdvisor reviews and check in on Facebook; tips for using Instagram and Facebook Business Pages; video marketing, Instastories, YouTube, Facebook Stories and WhatsApp status updates; email marketing and how to work with bloggers.
How we travel post covid-19 remains unclear but travel we will – in time. A big thank you to Wolfgang for keeping us up to date on the future of travel in East Africa. Remember to check out his blog ATCNews.org and follow him on Twitter and Facebook.
The land of 1000 … surprises! A solo exploration of Rwanda
Want to explore Rwanda? An ABC of Rwanda’s tourist accommodation – AirBnB, boutique hotels, camping and luxury lodges
A recent trip to Rwanda revealed such a wide variety of places to stay that I thought I must share them with you. Although Rwanda pitches itself as a high-end destination now – and has some wonderful luxury lodges like the remarkable Virunga Lodge – the country has a wide variety of accommodation for all budgets. It’s a very easy country to travel around too (although Ugandan friends did freak out when our vehicle started driving on the right side of the road!)
I seem to have developed this habit of leaving home for three days and returning after three weeks. It’s hard to resist the invitation to visit new places, especially when you’re already far from home (and your toothbrush is packed!)
The early morning bus from Kampala to Kigali is so much more pleasant than the night bus. (Why on earth did I take all those night buses?) I used to think I could kill a night by sleeping on the bus but sitting on the bus is no recompense for lack of a bed. I love Jaguar’s new wide ‘VIP only’ seats. There’s plenty of legroom and – hooray! – working seat belts. I’ve been using Jaguar Executive Coaches between Kampala and Kigali since 2011.
Despite rumours of bad politics between Uganda and Rwanda, I couldn’t tell whether anything was different at the border. Rwanda immigration’s new building is just having its last coat of paint. Those immigration officials must be relieved. If you cross the border late at night, they sit there in open-sided shipping containers, wearing thick jackets and suffering the cold of the damp river crossing.
At Nyabugogo bus park in Kigali, I met my new friend and kindred spirit Denis Senechal, a French-Canadian who has relocated to Rwanda’s capital with his Rwandan wife. Read my story about the cobbler of Nyabugogo bus park that I wrote while looking out of the bus window.
Denis and I swapped stories about their former life in Kampala as he drove me to the cosy and colourful Umusambi Bed and Breakfast in Kibagabaga, my home for the next few days.
After a leisurely breakfast the next morning – “don’t rush me, I’ve only been sitting at the breakfast table for an hour and a half” – I got chatting to an Australian couple who invited me to tour Inema Arts Gallery and the Caplaki craft market. I’ve managed to finance my nomad lifestyle by not visiting craft shops (so it was rather weird to be seen as a tourist).
Rwandan arts and crafts: Inema Arts Gallery and Caplaki Craft Market, Kigali
Caplaki Craft Market has excellent quality crafts – and divergent prices! Luckily we had the lovely Tony from Burundi to negotiate and whisper “don’t pay more than that” under his breath as we wandered from shop to shop.
We’d established that I could buy a snake (made from recycled bottle tops) for around 8,000 RWF (around $8). The shop next door asked for 15,000 RWF. At shop number three, the man with boozy breath said “I give you good price” and then asked me for 25,000 RWF for the same item! (He was the reminder to not buy the first thing you set your heart on).
In the afternoon, Greg Bakunzi from Red Rocks in Musanze introduced me to the Inzora Rooftop Café at Ikirezi Bookshop / Librairie Ikirezi. This stylish – bookish – café is definitely my kind of place and one I plan to revisit.
A highlight of my time in Kigali was feeling free to walk wherever I wanted. Wide (motorbike-free!) pavements and street lights make walking a pleasure. From Ikirezi Bookshop, I walked to the famous ‘peace basket’ structure that is Kigali Convention Centre. It can be seen from all corners of the city, particularly at night when it is lit in a variety of mesmerising colours. Radisson Blu Hotel forms part of the Convention Centre complex. The presidential convoy of Range Rovers with black-tinted windows sped past me as I left the hotel.
Photo highlights from Kigali and Musanze – click on the photos to reveal their location!
Did you know that Google Maps continues to work even when you’re not on Wi-Fi? (You can see who failed physics, can’t you?) To start, I logged onto the free Wi-Fi at Radisson Blu and typed my destination into the app. Google Maps traced the route and the arrow kept moving, even as I left the WiFi zone behind me to walk 5.5 km uphill and down towards Umusambi Guesthouse. Rwandans are generally polite people, and some greeted me as I walked. Walking the streets of Kigali was a wonderful experience (although not everywhere is as developed as the route between the Convention Centre and Kibagabaga, as I found out the following week when I stayed in a residential back street). First the muzungu got lost, then the moto got lost and later Google Maps dumped me in a field of maize! (But tell me, what is a travel blog without the occasional detour?)
I felt so relaxed at Umusambi Guesthouse, that it was an effort to haul myself off the sofa! I chatted in French with the guesthouse’s Belgian owner and had an eye-opening conversation with an Italian lady who is vaccinating frontline staff against Ebola. “Prevention is better than cure” and we are thankful to see numerous interventions in place across the region.
I’ve travelled by bus from Kigali to Musanze many times and it couldn’t be easier. The Virunga Express from Nyabugogo takes a couple of hours from the city as it winds upwards through some of Rwanda’s one thousand hills.
From Musanze, I took a 7 km moto(rbike) ride to the Red Rocks campsite. Here at high altitude, evenings can be cold. I was glad to have a friendly dog lying on my feet as I warmed myself at the campfire while chatting to two very cool trail-blazing chicks: Harriet, one of Red Rocks’ co-founders and Angel, one of Rwanda’s few women tour drivers.
Red Rocks Campsite and Red Rocks Initiatives, Musanze Rwanda
Red Rocks is a popular campsite with super friendly staff who make a point of greeting you with a big smile. I enjoyed chatting French with the chef. Quels petits déjeuners énormes! (The breakfasts were huge!)
Red Rocks is home to authentic community tourism and I was honoured to spend some time with Kamana Theophile, an environmentalist with a passion for community projects. In the Red Rocks Museum, he demonstrated how banana beer is made in a giant wooden canoe-type structure. (I tried some on a previous trip – it’s delicious!) Profits from Red Rocks Campsite fund the indigenous tree nursery and gardening demonstration plots. Kamana discussed in French (ooo la la) how the local community are given seedlings, learn gardening techniques and good environmental practices – all for free. Through Red Rocks Initiatives, local communities – and the environment – directly benefit from tourism. Every aspect is environmentally sound: the ‘raised bed’ kitchen garden is made of volcanic rock and tree seedlings are carried home in pots made of banana fibre (plastic bags are illegal in Rwanda and the ban is strictly enforced).
For a change of scene – we travel bloggers are rarely off-duty you know! – I was escorted to the new Classic Lodge where I did the full tour of the extensive buildings. The night before, over a thousand people had attended an event there. Had Musanze ever hosted such a large number of people?
Classic Lodge in Musanze is quite a set-up!
Here I was given a tour of the presidential suite (which President Kagame himself visited while it was under construction), a family cottage, suites, superior rooms and others. There are at least 40 different rooms and conference facilities.
Café Crema in Musanze is a cosy setup with charming and courteous staff. It’s the kind of place I love to hang out. The cappuccino was excellent, and I was happy to kill a few hours there (the first 30 minutes of WiFi are free).
Caffeine levels boosted, I dropped by the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund exhibition. It was humbling to spend a few moments reconnecting with my first reason for travelling to Rwanda, that being to support gorilla conservation.
Next stop Kigali.
The advantage of having fluid plans is you can take up new opportunities as they present themselves. The downside is you occasionally get stuck without a place to sleep! Thanks to Moses Nezehose who booked me in at the Tea House, another great establishment which is walking distance from Remera, a part of the city that I’ve come to know a little over my years of visiting Kigali.
On my first trips to the capital, I would stay at hostels run by various convents. (You can’t argue with $10 a night, even if the shower is cold). Centre Christus Hostel in Remera is set in green, bird (and monkey)-filled gardens away from the main road and I’ve been happy to stay there on several occasions.
On the second leg of my trip in Kigali, I was spoiled rotten. I spent three nights at the fabulous Pili Pili Boutique Hotel. My – it was heaven – so much so that I didn’t leave the compound for three days! My heart skipped a beat when the beautiful breakfast tray arrived in my room.
The cosmopolitan bar and brilliant music at Pili Pili were quite a thrill for this girl from the village! I loved the fresh grilled Sambaza fish from Lake Tanganyika and enjoyed my chats with Rudy, Pili Pili’s owner. I was fascinated to hear about his former life running hotels and bars in Bujambura. I visited Burundi in 2012 and really fell for the place. J’adore l’Afrique francophone!
Pili Pili Bistro and Boutique Hotel, Kigali
Pre-booked visitors ousted me from my little pad – goddamit – meaning it was time to download Air BnB and try my luck getting a cheap room in the city. Within minutes I was booked in to stay with Josiane and her four young sons. It was hard to understand where she lived so she came to meet me midway on a moto. She couldn’t have been nicer. She almost fell off her chair when I told her that Uganda is the Source of the Nile. She was quite adamant that it is in Rwanda! The debate continues…
After the comforts of a luxury set-up, it was nice to spend time with a Rwandan family. They treated me well and the meals were huge. (As for the cockroaches, well I’m glad I didn’t see any on my first night there; the longer I stayed there, the bigger the cockroaches I saw!)
I happened to be in Kigali on a Sunday when roads are closed to allow city residents space to run and exercise. Groups were exercising at Amahoro Stadium that morning as I walked to Java House in Remera where I fell in love with rhinos! Did you know Rwanda has just successfully relocated five black rhinos from Europe to Rwanda? The transformation of Akagera National Park is sensational, as I have witnessed on my last two visits there.
On my last day in Kigali, I headed to the Rwanda Development Board offices, also in Remera. Tourism, conservation and many other departments are managed by RDB. Boy what an impressive setup. Did you know that it’s free to register a business in Rwanda? Did you know that it generally takes only six hours to do that? The ‘one stop shop’ at RDB really is that. You can make bank payments, get advice from copyright specialists and immigration officials and have someone sit with you and guide you through the whole process of setting up a company, from start to finish. Let’s not do comparisons with Uganda…
Upstairs, I was delighted to see Moses, one of our hosts at the brilliant Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony. Kwita Izina is the annual celebration of conservation and tourism in Rwanda and now lasts a whole week.
Lunchtime took me back to the famous Chez Lando for my final brochettes (grilled meat on skewers) of the trip. I do enjoy Rwandan food. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – 10 snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
The final leg of my trip took me back to Kampala. Life is easy when you can jump in an Uber as soon as you hit the city outskirts! Boutique B&Bs were a bit of a theme on this trip and I was thrilled when Albert Ntambiko invited me to stay at the new Mahali Guesthouse in Makindye. Albert is also the owner of Coffee at Last. Mahali is housed in the new Coffee at Last building, just a few steps away from the original establishment.
Like I said, I seem to have this habit of leaving home for three days and returning after three weeks! Last year’s four day trip to Mombasa led to invitations to visit high-end hotels in Nyali, explore backpacker hostels and luxury beach resorts in Diani and attend Diani’s Five A Side International Beach Touch Rugby Tournament. (I arrived home three weeks later!)
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Celebrating gorillas at “the best Kwita Izina ever!”
Kwita Izina – Rwanda’s gorilla naming ceremony
Gorilla tracking is said to be a “once in a lifetime” experience yet I love this primate encounter more each time 💗
Last week’s mountain gorilla tracking was even more exhilarating than the last time – but I’ll leave that story for another day. For now, imagine the calm here in Volcanoes National Park as a ranger guide watches a Blackback* male mountain gorilla …
*A Blackback will one day mature to be a Silverback gorilla.
I have huge respect for the rangers, guides and researchers on the ground who protect these beguiling creatures (and the porters clad in overalls and gum boots who effortlessly help us track).
What is Kwita Izina?
During the first week of September every year, celebrities from around the world touch down in Kinigi, Volcanoes National Park, to name the baby gorillas born in the last year in Rwanda. There is nothing like this anywhere else.
From early morning, thousands of young Rwandese throng to the event site. They wait excitedly for their favourite musicians to perform for them live, free of charge. It’s said 60,000 people attended Kwita Izina 2018!
The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is an opportunity to publicly thank the conservationists closest to protecting these great apes. It’s also a global showcase for the country’s tourism industry. Gorilla namers include Rwandan and international conservationists, sports personalities, renown philanthropists and diplomats. Read my blog from a previous Kwita Izina, in which I explain the derivation of the term and the history of its creation.
According to East African tourism expert Carmen Nibigira, this year’s event was “the best event ever!”
Why is Kwita Izina such an important event for Rwanda and Africa?
Thanks to conservation initiatives like Kwita Izina, the Mountain Gorilla population in the Virunga Massif has increased from 480 in 2010 to to 604 in 2016 (results of last census). The Virunga Massif covers Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda, and the Mikeno Sector of Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). In 1981, Mountain Gorilla numbers had dropped to just 242 individuals, according to the Rwanda Development Board. (Results of the latest gorilla census are expected to show a further increase in gorilla numbers. However the species is still classed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List).
Now in its 14th year, Kwita Izina has gone from being a one day gorilla naming event to a whole week of conservation and tourism related events. Tourism can be a powerful tool for lifting people out of poverty and Rwanda is pushing it at every level. One of the week’s events is the two-day Conversation on Conservation (CoC) forum in Kigali which takes a strategic look at conservation in the country.
What were the highlights of Kwita Izina 2018?
My 11 hour bus journey from Kampala to Kigali was worth every minute. Here are a few of the amazing people I met in Rwanda.
Prosper was very helpful when I was researching and writing the ecotourism guide“Walking with the Gorillas” published by Horizon Guides.
Did you know … trackers are now given beautiful presentation boxes of tea or coffee – Rwandese of course! (These replace the certificates we used to be given). Gorilla tracking in Rwanda now costs a whopping $1500 per permit as Rwanda pitches the country as a high-end tourism destination.
Susan and I watched three lions in Akagera National Park, ate Sambaza fish on Lake Kivu, survived the jaw-dropping canopy walkway in Nyungwe Forest, and enjoyed a thrilling gorilla tracking experience with the Titus gorilla family.
Anyone can get a flavour of Kwita Izina by visiting Vecotourism.org – one click and you are virtually there!
Here’s a full list of 2018’s gorilla namers. Information courtesy of RDB.
- – His Highness Sheikh Dr. Abdulaziz Ali Bin Rashid Al Nuami, the ‘Green Sheikh’, has dedicated his life to traveling and environmental stewardship.
- – Dr. Noeline Raondry Rakotoarisa is the Program Chief of Capacity Building and Partnerships Section for UNESCO/MAB (Man and Biosphere).
- – Madame Graca Machel is the former First Lady of South Africa and Mozambique. She is an international advocate for women’s and children’s rights.
- – Aliaume Damala Badara Akon Thiam is an American singer, songwriter, businessman, record producer and actor of Senegalese descent.
- – Samba Bathily is a Malian philanthropist, He is CEO of Solektra International and co-founder of Akon Lighting Africa with Akon and Thione Niang.
- – Alexandra Virina Scott is a retired English footballer who played as a right-back for Arsenal Women. She made 140 appearances for the English national team and represented Great Britain at the 2012 London Olympics.
– Laureano Bisan Etamé-Mayer, commonly known as Lauren, is a retired Cameroonian footballer, who played for the Cameroonian national team and Arsenal FC.
I always come away from Kwita Izina inspired. Rwanda tourism knows no bounds.
A big shout-out to every one at Rwanda Development Board for attending to every little detail of our superb tour of what some call the ‘Singapore of Africa.’
A special thank you to everyone at Serena Hotels who hosted us at the Kigali Serena Hotel and Lake Kivu Serena. The fabulous facilities were a real treat.
#VisitRwanda
Have you tracked the mountain gorillas? Have you attended Kwita Izina? What were your impressions?
From Silverbacks to Silverchefs!
How far will you go for good food?
From Silverback Mountain Gorillas to Silverchefs – how food is helping put the Gorilla Highlands of southwestern Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC on the tourist map.
“You came all this way just to attend a cooking competition?”
After a month of living in the village on posho (maize porridge) and beans, little persuasion was needed to travel a day and a half to taste the creations of sixteen chefs and to enjoy the Kigali Marriott Hotel’s phenomenal breakfast!
How could I resist the lure of food (that I didn’t have to prepare), a stay in a top international hotel, the chance to learn more about hospitality (my first jobs were in hotels) and to network with tourism colleagues and media from across East Africa?
Most importantly though, I was delighted to be invited to support the work of Gorilla Highlands (the brains behind the Silverchef Competition), creating positive stories about this ridiculously beautiful corner of the world.
And so it was that I found myself traveling from my current home near Fort Portal to Kigali: by boda boda, matatu taxi, bus, private hire car, another matatu, bus (Jaguar Executive Coaches, comme d’habitude) and finally a moto (the Rwandese word for motorbike or boda boda) from Nyabugogo bus park in downtown Kigali.
What is the Silverchef Competition?
“In a spirit of friendly co-operation” sixteen chefs representing sixteen establishments from Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo congregated at the Kigali Marriott Hotel for Gorilla Highlands’ Silverchef Competition 2018.
Two shifts of eight chefs took over the four kitchens of the Marriott Hotel to prepare their dishes. Behind the scenes, the judges watched the chefs’ preparations. Each chef had the same ingredients (points were deducted for anyone who did not stick closely to the rules!) Chefs were judged not only for the taste of their food but the chefs’ presentation skills, their creativity and their time management skills.
Talking about the competition, Miha Logar of Gorilla Highlands said “It’s good for chefs to get away from their own environment once in a while. They often lead a demanding lifestyle, far away from their family. We believe that events like this build a chef’s self-confidence. Having the chance to travel is a bit of an adventure, whether visiting a new country or a different part of their own country.”
Not only was 2018 memorable for being Silverchef’s inaugural event in Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo also joined the competition for the very first time. (Guess which lucky travel blogger has an invitation to Goma?)
“It’s been a big decision to work in the DRC and I’d like to thank all the stakeholders in the region who have given their input, suggestions and thoughts on this subject.” Will next year’s Silverchef find us in the DRC? We wait and see.
Previous editions of Silverchef have been held in Uganda: in Kisoro, Kabale and Lake Bunyonyi.
What is travel without good food?
Although at first glance the point of the Silverchef Competition is to win the prized silver chef’s hat, the event is part of a bigger strategic initiative. At the heart of the Gorilla Highlands’ philosophy is the belief that tourism can be a major tool for development. Tourism creates much-needed jobs and opportunities to train. With little local industry or manufacturing, tourism is the best bet for bringing revenue. Financial investment is important, but training, opportunity, innovation and self-confidence are also crucial.
Chefs bring their supporters and managers to Silverchef. Some hotel managers travel to the event looking for new staff. For lodge staff, tour operators and the wider tourism industry, the weekend of the annual Gorilla Highlands Silverchef Competition is a chance to interact, network and learn – about cooking, regional tourism and hospitality, and what tourism in the region needs to develop and flourish.
This year’s Silverchef judges were (from left): last year’s Silverchef winner Allan Mukasa, Sylvia Kalembe of Uganda Tourism Board, Chief Judge Professor Wolfgang Thome, Yves K. Ngenzi of Rwanda Development Board and Andre Ngoja-Ngoja from HORECA the Association for Hoteliers, Restaurants and Cafes in North Lake Kivu, DRC. The incomparable compere was Nash Barrett, Co-Founder SafeMotos.
What is Gorilla Highlands?
Many tourists come to this area of East Africa because of the gorillas, but there is so much more to explore in the region: hiking volcanoes, staying the night in a community homestay, experiencing one of the region’s cultures and eating good food of course!
So who were the winners of Gorilla Highlands’ Silverchef 2018?
According to Miha, “in our book, all the competing chefs are winners. They’ve committed to taking part in the competition and we are grateful for that.” That said, here’s the list of Quality Cooking Certificate winners:
- Chef “Rama” Ramadhan Sindayigaya, Marriott, Kigali (Rwanda) – Gorilla Highlands Silverchef 2018 and best Rwandese chef.
- Mukungu Akimu, Grand Legacy Hotel, Jinja (Uganda) – best Ugandan chef
- Manishimwe Jean Bosco, Lake Kivu Serena Hotel, Gisenyi (Rwanda)
- Musasa Marcellin Tshite, Virunga Lodge, Volcanoes National Park (Rwanda)
- Odeke Silver, Cephas Inn, Kabale (Uganda)
- Jean Bosco Birindwa, Ihusi Hotel, Goma (DR Congo) – best Congolese chef
- Otim Amos, Protea Hotel, Kampala (Uganda)
- Emmanuel Murwanashyaka, ParkInn by Radisson, Kigali (Rwanda)
- Sam Mbabazi, Bunyonyi Overland Resort, Kabale (Uganda)
- Paul Mulyampiti, BirdNest Resort – Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda)
The best Rwandan chef also received a prize from Rwanda Development Board: a trip to Volcanoes National Park to track the gorillas! The winning chef from Uganda won a trip to track the gorillas in Uganda, courtesy of the Uganda Tourism Board and Uganda Wildlife Authority.
Visit the Gorilla Highlands web site to learn more about travel in southwestern Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo.
Rwanda
The Muzungu’s top reasons to #VisitRwanda
1 – Go mountain gorilla trekking in the Virunga mountains, northern Rwanda. I have written extensively about gorilla tracking in Rwanda. Click on the links for more information or refer to my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking.
2 – Learn about gorilla conservation. Visit the grave of famous primatologist Dian Fossey and her favourite gorilla, Digit
3 – Rwanda is an eco-tourist’s dream: 670 bird species, 400 butterfly species, primates galore!
4 – Golden monkey trekking is highly recommended!
5 – Enjoy safari game drives in Akagera National Park, bordering Uganda, a ‘small but perfectly formed’ savannah safari destination where animal numbers are on the increase. Read Rhinos to Rwanda: the largest ever transport of rhinos from Europe to Africa begins today.
6 – Take advantage of free WiFi across Kigali! Oh yes! You can even check your email or WhatsApp when you’re on the city’s buses.
7 – Learn about the genocide of 1994. Visit the Gisozi Genocide Memorial Centre in Kigali. Incredibly moving and a must-visit experience.
8 – Lie on the tropical beach at Lake Kivu. Rwanda has a number of crystal clear lakes. The sandy beaches and tropical weather of Lake Kivu, shared with neighbouring Democratic Republic of the Congo, make the lake a popular weekend and holiday spot. Gisenyi and Kibuye are two popular resort towns.
9 – Go chimpanzee trekking in Nyungwe Forest. Birding in Nyungwe Forest is popular and the forest is home to big groups of Black and White Colobus monkeys. I travelled to Nyungwe Forest with my good friend primatologist chimpanzee expert Julia. Julia Lloyd features in the World Atlas of Great Apes and Their Conservation (and is best known for her work in habituating the chimpanzees of Kibale Forest in Uganda).
10 – Hike the magical volcanoes of the Virunga
11 – Watch fabulous traditional Intore dancing. The traditional culture of Rwanda is evidenced everywhere: the Intore dancers are captivating!
12 – Rwanda is a small, accessible country with good roads
12 – English is the (new) lingua franca and French is spoken by many in the capital and in hotels and tourist destinations
13 – The East Africa Tourist Visa makes travel to Rwanda, Uganda and Kenya more affordable.
The small landlocked country of Rwanda is known as the “Land of a Thousand Hills,” something which you will very quickly appreciate on a road trip. I still have the feeling of being thrown from left to right, right to left, for hours on end, when we drove up and down the hills, round one bend, then back around another, as we travelled from Kigali, the capital of Rwanda, down to Bujumbura, the capital of Burundi. (Historically connected, the two countries share very similar geography).
Rwanda is flourishing, and tourists love to visit this safe and popular little country that has invested heavily in tourism and infrastructure over the last two decades.
Many visitors are lured to Rwanda by the famous and critically endangered Mountain Gorillas, who make their home in the staggeringly beautiful Virunga volcanic chain.
It is even possible to fly into Rwanda for just 24 hours to see the gorillas, but I wouldn’t recommend that, there’s a lot more to Rwanda than the mountain gorillas.
Did you know…? The East Africa Tourist Visa makes it easier and cheaper to combine a trip to Rwanda with a visit to Uganda and Kenya.
Are you planning a Rwanda tour? Check out my Travel Directory or read reviews of 100s of Rwanda tour operators on SafariBookings.com
Bumming around in Nyabugogo bus park
Waiting for the bus to depart: Nyabugogo bus park, Kigali
I can’t believe my luck. My allocated seat – number 11 – happens to be the window seat near the front of the bus. I couldn’t have chosen a better position. (Luckily it’s not so near the front that I can see danger looming! Jaguar Executive Coaches block off the driver’s cabin from the rest of the passengers, which suits me just fine). I always travel between Rwanda and Uganda’s capital cities with Jaguar, as regular blog readers may recall.
Just don’t sit on the back seat – you will feel every hump and bump! On the bus from Kampala to Kigali
From my window seat, I kill time watching a man cleaning and repairing shoes. The shoeshine man has set up his makeshift shop in one of the bright yellow bus shelters. On a blue painted wooden bench sit eight pairs of clean shoes, their wet tongues hanging out to dry.
A man wearing dark green overalls stops at the shoeshine man’s bus shelter to remove one of his baseball boots. (What is the fashion with cutting the huge hole in the backside of your overalls? Is it general wear and tear? Is it for quick access at the local latrine? I don’t mean to stare at the guy’s bum, but… my eyes are drawn to it by the gaping hole!)
The shoeshine man retrieves a pair of blue flip-flops for the customer. The new arrival removes his threadbare “peephole” socks (to match his “peephole” overalls) and wipes the dirt from between his toes. He folds his socks away into a small ball. He puts the ball of socks in his pocket and leaves his boots with the shoeshine man before he walks off in the temporary footwear.
In the meantime, a smart-looking gentleman removes one of his black office shoes. The shoeshine man picks out a pair of black sandals from his canvas sack and hands them to the new customer. The man who arrived wearing black office shoes rolls up the bottom of his trousers, puts on the black flip-flops and disappears into the Nyabugogo bus park crowd.
His customers temporarily gone – replaced by their shoes – the shoeshine man gets to work, scrubbing another pair of black leather shoes. He scrubs them with a green plastic brush, as he bends over a red plastic basin of water. He looks around for something, and pulls an old T-shirt from his white canvas sack. He dries the shoe thoroughly with the T-shirt.
A tall man in a white baseball cap sits on the yellow plastic bench of the bus shelter, grabs a brush and starts to brush his black boots. No money exchanges hands.
Customer number four is given bright pink plastic sandals to wear. They look rather like a lady’s house slippers to me. The man sits gazing into the distance, chewing on a toothpick. Another guy in long green overalls comes to stand under the bus shelter. He looks over at the Muzungu in the bus and flashes me a big grin. I’m trying not to stare – but he has this huge gaping hole in the back of his overalls too – and he’s rather handsome… from the front and from the back too!
A boy selling newspapers stops in front of the bus shelter. He grabs a brush, gives his shoes a quick scuff and moves on through the crowd.
As people come and go, one thing is constant: the shoeshine man works and works, hardly passing the time of day to chat or to look up from his work. The ‘man in pink sandals’ walks off contentedly – transformed into ‘the man in brown polished brogues’.
A young man walks by, with an empty milk churn hanging off one arm. A paper tissue drops out of his pocket onto the ground. A minute later, a woman in a headscarf and red batik wrap approaches, equipped with a traditional broom and a red plastic shopping bag containing a battered old cardboard box and miscellaneous rubbish. She leans down to pick up an empty crisp packet and the tissue. The shoeshine man hands her some of his rubbish. They do not acknowledge each other. I sense the rhythm of a regular routine. It’s a relaxing way to wile away a few minutes before the bus pulls out of Nyabugogo bus park for Kampala.
Carrying a heavy load – these guys are strong! Selling biscuits, sodas and water to the bus driver in Musanze bus park
Read How to eat like a Rwandan (10 snacks I bet you’ve never tried) inspired by traveling through Musanze bus park.
Hard-boiled eggs, roasted ground nuts (and akabanga chilli oil of course!) on sale in Musanze bus park
Those are some nice-looking rolex! A food vendor jumped on the bus to sell us breakfast
If you enjoy the muzungu’s occasional cross-border bus journeys, read:
‘No hurry in Africa’ – bus from Kampala to Kigali
This guy should have been on the stage: the traveling salesman who literally travels as he travels, walking up and down the aisle of the bus from Kampala to Kigali, working the crowd, proffering samples and chucking out sweets to an enrapt audience of hecklers. How I wished I understood Luganda at that moment!
MASH-tastic! The muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi
Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat. “You snooze, you lose!” As she likes to tell me…
The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya’
We drove from the coach park straight into heavy evening traffic – and the side of a car. After ten minutes of arguing and arm waving, the consensus was that the car was the one-size-fits-all Ugandan term: “stubborn.”
The Kigali Marriott Hotel: American luxury with Rwandese class
The Kigali Marriott Hotel: American luxury with Rwandese class
Driving up to the rather smart Kigali Marriott, you might think this is just another American hotel. However, enter the building and you will be appreciate the local touches to every aspect of the hotel. The Kigali Marriott’s decor displays the very best of Rwanda’s high quality crafts industry. The interiors are thoughtfully done and ooze Rwandese character. This extends to the staff who are smartly dressed in tailored uniforms with a touch of kitenge fabric. Every interaction I had with staff was characterised by friendliness and politeness, in an understated Rwandese fashion. I felt very welcome.
Time was against me on my recent visit so I didn’t have long enough to swim in the pool, have a massage in the Saray Spa or enjoy the huge gym but there’s certainly plenty to do if you’re planning to spend a weekend in Kigali. Actually, why not start your weekend on a Thursday? Thursdays are Ladies Night at Iriba Bar, the trendy cocktail bar on the ground floor. Cocktails and house wine are half price for ladies on Thursdays. There is live music, and free entry to all. The Iriba Bar also has Happy Hour(s) from Monday to Friday from 5.30-7.30 where it’s 2 for 1 on regional bottled beers and house wine.
On Sundays, spend the day by the swimming pool and enjoy a leisurely brunch for 25,000 RWF (with unlimited soft drinks) or 32,000 RWF (add regional beers and house wine) or 38,000 RWF (add Champagne to all of the above!) By the way, it’s great to see that the Marriott Hotel employs a lifeguard.
A note about exchange rates: 25,000 RWF is just under 30 USD. 1,000 RWF is approx 1 USD (Jan 2020).
Breakfast at the Kigali Marriott Hotel
Eleven types of pastry, three types of doughnut, fresh waffles, an ‘omelette station’ offering 20+ ingredients, dried figs and mangoes, yoghurts, fresh fruits galore, bread pudding with chocolate sauce, meringues in four pastel colours, what an incredible breakfast display! I hardly knew where to start! African food – added to the menu by Executive Chef Eduardo Frausto Cornish – included gatogo (or ‘katogo’ in Uganda), kahunga (ugali) and Uganda’s famous rollex (“rolled eggs”) of an omelette served in a chapati. Throughout the hotel, Rwandese-produced coffee is served and promoted, thanks to the Question Coffee community development initiative. Scroll down to see a few of my photos.
The Kigali Marriott’s award-winning chef!
Since my visit to the hotel, I had an opportunity to meet Chef Eduardo, at the annual Silver Chef competition, which this year was held at Birdnest Bunyonyi Resort, Lake Bunyonyi in Uganda. He and his team had travelled from Kigali to support their competition candidate Chef Innocent Rutayisire.
Here the Marriott’s Chef Innocent was awarded second prize in a stiff competition between professional chefs working in the Gorilla Highlands region of Rwanda and southwestern Uganda.
Was this the comfiest bed ever?
My air-conditioned room had all the features you’d expect of a 5 star hotel: fabulously hot shower, deliciously inviting bathtub, in-room safe, ironing board, bathrobes, expensive toiletries, mini handtowels and possibly the comfiest bed I’ve ever slept in. (I was quite relieved that the many power points were of the three-pin variety as the muzungu had forgotten her adapter, as usual!)
Downstairs, the hotel has a state of the art fitness centre (gym), swimming pool, sauna and steam room. The Saray Spa has an extensive range of massages, body wraps, facials, waxing and scrubs. (There are singles and couples massage rooms, showers and lockers – every need is catered for). The Kigali Marriott has a range of flexible membership options, according to whether you are just visiting or are a Kigali resident wanting an occasional swim or regular gym membership.
The area around the pool has a welcoming, informal atmosphere and will soon offer barbeque options at the Sarabi Grill. The new Cucina Restaurant is finally open and serves top-class Italian food.
Perfectly set up – for business, leisure and tourism
The Kigali Marriott is the perfect hotel for visiting diplomats and VIPs, with close proximity to the Swiss and Russian embassies (and situated right next door to the Kigali Serena Hotel). The air-conditioned Executive Lounge (only accessible to guests staying on the Club Floor and above) is a good location for coffee meetings and catching up on some work. Breakfast and lunch can be served here and complimentary hot drinks and snacks are available 24 hours. The Executive Lounge has two private meeting rooms. Security levels are high. Only hotel residents can access the lifts, for example.
The hotel’s numerous boardrooms and function rooms are ideal for conferences, workshops, weddings, parties, cocktails, receptions and more. The Kilimanjaro Ballroom can be partitioned into smaller sections or opened onto the terrace for attractive breakout areas. It really is a splendid set-up.
Opened in October 2016, the Kigali Marriott is one hotel where I could gladly return and spend more time, but my next adventure beckoned. Next stop: Kinigi, home to Rwanda’s mountain gorillas!
DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. Thank you to the Kigali Marriott for hosting me. For more information on sponsored posts, please read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions.
Have you visited the Kigali Marriott? As you can see, even one night’s bed and breakfast is a real treat!
“No hurry in Africa” – journey by bus from Kampala to Kigali
On board the bus from Kampala, Uganda to Kigali, Rwanda. The muzungu’s travel tips
I didn’t understand much but the salesman’s words “Tsunami in the vagina” and aggressive pelvic thrusting into the bus seat next to him somehow caught my attention.
This guy should have been on the stage: the traveling salesman who literally travels as he travels, walking up and down the aisle of the bus from Kampala to Kigali, working the crowd, proffering samples and chucking out sweets to an enrapt audience of hecklers. How I wished I understood Luganda at that moment!
I remember him on my previous bus from Kampala to Kigali (en route to Kinigi, home of Rwanda’s mountain gorillas): the man who insisted we keep the bus windows open all night – and later proceeded to sell us cold remedies! [Note dear reader: this time he was promoting Chinese Royal Jelly – though I can’t confirm its libido effects!]
Blink or you’ll miss it…. without warning, the bus pulls over for a rare and impromptu stop for a ‘short call’. I choose my bush carefully. As I get comfy, a girl appears to sit down 10 feet away from me. So much for privacy. There’s a bump, bump, bump to my left as a man pedals downhill towards us, empty green jerry cans banging his bicycle seat as he passes over the bumpy path. (Did I say something about privacy?)
Show over, we return to the bus, and a pair of crutches emerges from the bushes, followed by a young girl. I’ll come to see a lot of people on crutches over my next few days in Rwanda and Burundi. I wonder at their stories, but daren’t ask.
A vicar in a pale blue shirt climbs on the bus, surrounded by men brandishing sticks of greasy meat ‘muchomo.’
“They wanted to drive without you” the girl next to me says as I squeeze myself back into my seat. (I’m sure the legroom has shrunk while I was behind that bush).
Back on the bus from Kampala to Kigali, Rwanda’s capital, we wind through the lush green hills and villages up to the border. I gaze out of the window. Matooke, matooke, matooke, as far as the eye can see. A young child in pink gum boots plays with a long stick in the mud. Two women walk across a field, bundles of babies tied around their middles, little feet sticking out either side of their waist. Too cute!
We slow to negotiate the slippery marram dirt roads and here – in the middle of nowhere and then a bit – a traffic jam! Bored, I jump out of the bus to stretch my legs, not realising the disaster that lies ahead of us. I march down towards the crowd by the river and 200 people turn around to me. I approach, camera in hand.
“Are you the photographer?” everyone asks as the Muzungu surveys the scene: a flooded river and an overturned truck, blocking the road to Rwanda. International Super Highway? Judge for yourself.
An employment opportunity presents itself: “Muzungu, I carry you for 1000 shillings!”
No mate, you have to pay ME for that particular public humiliation. (The thought of all those people laughing at the Muzungu being carried across the river, I don’t think so!) Oh what a spoilsport the Muzungu is, denying the villagers a good laugh…
They want me to believe how easy it will be to get a boda boda to the border a few kilometres away then jump on another bus at the border. I’m not rushing; I’m here to watch how this one unfolds.
We hang around eating huge chunks of fresh jackfruit (only 200 shillings in this part of the world!) as men unload the useless sodden bags of cement from the overturned lorry. “At least they can’t steal it!” Someone says.
I prepare for a night on the bus. Many people have abandoned ship and opted for the 1000 shilling piggyback ride but I stretch out on three seats. I’ve had three hours sleep the night before, sharing a single bed with a visiting onion farmer, and now it’s time for a zizz (sleep). Who cares if we’ll be eaten alive overnight by mosquitoes if we stay here next to the swamp? For now I’m in luxury!
To lose three hours in Africa is nothing, and I’m surprised (disappointed?) when from my slumber I hear a huge cheer as the lorry is winched back upright.
Time to move.
As we approach the border, a few minutes later, a man next to me opens a photo album of identity cards and ponders: “Tonight Matthew I’m going to be…” (a joke for the Brits, sorry…)
A man in an ill-fitting suit carries just one possession, his Kinyarwanda English dictionary.
At immigration, I ingratiate myself with every staff member, regardless of their nationality, in the hope they’ll remember my smiling Muzungu face upon my return.
I panic when I hear the revving of a bus engine. Perhaps the bus driver really does mean to leave me behind this time? And I recognise our luggage, strewn under a tree, bags being searched – not for bombs – but for cavera (plastic bags), illegal in Rwanda. I’m very nicely ordered to jettison mine, ready for the next adventure: Rwanda!
For more dramatic photos of the scene that greeted us, see the Diary of a Muzungu Facebook album.
Here are a few of my travel tips for bus travel from Kampala to Kigali:
- I don’t trust the driving skills of a man who puts all his faith in God, sorry. ‘Inshallah’ written in huge letters on the front window just doesn’t cut it with me. Check out the driver before you get into any vehicle. If he stinks of booze, get out!
- I travelled with Jaguar Executive Coaches. Expect to pay around 70,000 Uganda shillings (PRICE CORRECT April 2024). Buy the day before or just before departure. Early booking means you can choose your seat (recommended!) Call +256 (0)414 251855 or (0)782 811 128 for information. Visit Jaguar Executive Coach’s Facebook page for directions to their bus park in Kampala.
- On my return bus trip from Kigali to Kampala, I used Baby Coach. The fare was the same as Jaguar. You can pay in Rwandan francs or Uganda shillings, even in Kigali. Their office is in Nyabugogo bus park, Kigali.
- Where to sit in the bus: don’t even think of sitting over the back wheels. The Muzungu has endured this experience so you don’t have to! Read ‘Kampala to Nairobi by bus: 14 hours of speed humps’ for the reasons why.
- Does the bus have curtains? If not, you might want to sit on the side away from the sun or you’ll get burned, or at least uncomfortably hot.
- Always take mosquito repellent – you never know when you might need it.
- Always bring more water than you need – you never know where you’re going to end up!
- Bring water but try not to drink it! Apart from the unplanned stop and the border, we only stopped very briefly twice in eight plus hours of travel.
- Bring that horrible disinfectant hand gel stuff. If you’re lucky enough to find any real toilets en route, they are grim / have no running water / no soap.
- Take ear plugs and/or music. You might enjoy the person behind you singing loudly to their radio? I don’t.
For more of the Muzungu moaning about fellow travelers, read A short-tempered muzungu flies to Istanbul
Do you have any bus travel tips to share? I’d love to hear them!
