Are you thinking of climbing Margherita Peak or trekking the Rwenzori Mountains? Then read this first!
Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Jane Goldring, with photos for this story kindly provided by her husband and brilliant photographer Paul.
If you’re planning to climb Margherita, or just interested in hiking or mountain climbing in Uganda, look no further. Below Jane’s story, you’ll find a Rwenzori trekking packing list and some travel advice on how to plan your Rwenzori hike, as well as links to other East African mountain climbing stories (notably How to Climb Mount Kilimanjaro – tales of a novice climber and A girl called Kevin: Climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda).
After an early start and a traditional Western breakfast, we left Kasese for the start of our Rwenzori trek, a 30 minute drive out of town past the Margherita Hotel towards Kasese Cobalt mine. We had been warned we could not get right the way up to the Rwenzori Trekking Services office due to a flood and rock slide which had taken out the bridge and last part of the road. Finding our guides Moses and Richard en route, we had help hauling our luggage up the hill to the RTS offices, where it was time for the formalities: sharing details of medical issues, insurance, food allergies and emergency contacts. It was here that we signed up the sixteen porters needed to carry our luggage, equipment, fuel, food and other supplies our group would need to trek the Rwenzori Mountains.
Rwenzori trekking: the adventure started even before Jane had entered the National Park – the road from Kasese had been swept away…. How to hike Margherita Peak
And so at 9:45am we started trekking up the road past the dilapidated mine housing estate which was buzzing with life: ducks in the muddy gulleys, chickens, goats and even a pig or two, as well as people going about their daily life in the little duuka shops, bars and houses with long lines of clothes washing.
At the entrance of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, trekking formalities concluded with payment of park entry fees (see Tips section of this article for the different tariffs).
Now in the Park, we started up the path in a single file through forested slopes and arrived at the first stopover, Sine Hut, at about 4:00pm. At 2596 metres, Sine Hut is situated on top of a long ridge amongst pine and other trees. Steep slopes on either side of the ridge lead down into deep valleys and amply flowing rivers. Similar to a traditional Alpine wooden hut, Sine Hut has a terrace and four sets of bunk beds. A flask of hot water for tea and bowl of fresh water for washing awaited us, after which our short exploration of the area revealed a valley river and a small waterfall of icy water.
Back at Sine Hut, it was time for our first dinner up the mountain. Our three course meal of soup, main and dessert was very tasty, with huge quantities of carbohydrates that we struggled to finish. A couple of rounds of cards and soon we were feeling rather tired and so, not long after dark, we all retired to bed as mist started to roll in with the cool air.
Rwenzori trekking – Day two
Day two’s trekking started at 8:30am (after a hearty breakfast of cereal, omelette, toast and bacon too!) through a forested area, with glimpses of more Rwenzori foothills through the gaps in the trees ahead. We were lucky to see L’Hoests monkeys and heard the calls of Rwenzori Turacos – but did not see any yet. Due to the last few months’ excessive rains, we also saw areas of landslides where the ground seemed to still be sliding down the mountainside. As the mist rolled in, we saw no more. We walked along the path on the mountain’s edge; while we figured there was a steep drop, we could not see anything. The path became rockier and, as we scrambled over rocks, we focused our energy and vision on each step in front of us.
Waterfalls. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita.
Our lunchtime sandwiches next to a fast flowing river were interrupted when the heavens suddenly opened. We changed into our gum boots (or Wellington boots as the British call them) and rain gear and set off again almost immediately – trying to beat the weather. After some time I realized that I was feeling very cold and wet. Guess what? The freezing cold rain – we were now over 2000 metres high – was going directly through that wonderful North Face jacket from Kathmandu. Luckily my porter was nearby and I had a spare rainjacket (a cheapie ‘security guard style one’ from Entebbe Supermarket). The spare rainjacket and dry sweater saved the day, even if I didn’t look as fashionable as the rest of the party in their good quality rainjackets.
Shrouded in mist and wet from the recent rain, the Alpine zone plants were a little unreal; the wonderland of large overpowering plants and trees draped in white “Old Man’s Beard” (Usnea) gave me the feeling of being in a movie set.
Our next camp – Mutima Cave – was at an altitude of 3688 metres. Here a couple of tents were placed under a rocky overhang forming a rather makeshift, but very welcoming, overnight stop. We enjoyed an evening keeping warm around the fire and chatting with two very energetic and fit Dutch ladies who proudly told us they had just managed to summit Margherita Peak. They had lost a day due to bad weather and so had just completed two days of Rwenzori trekking in just one day – 10 hours of fast hiking – so that they could keep to their tight schedules. A little daunting for us not quite so fit ones.
Rwenzori trekking – Day three
Being now seasoned mountaineers, after two days on the go, we were up and ready in no time at all with our gum boots on (and taped to our waterproof trousers, just to be sure), sun gear, enough layers of clothing to put on / take off as the need arose, our snacks ready at hand and lots of drinking water.
The day begun a little cool and dull, but with no rain to begin with, which we were pleased about as this was our first real day of hiking through the bogs. Negotiating the boggy ground requires you watch every step to ensure the ground really is solid, or at least only a shallow bit of mud, as you zig zag upwards as a cross. A long walking pole proved to be well worthwhile here.
By 11:00 am the skies had opened again and we trudged along in the rain for a good part of the day with visibility not much more than a few metres at a time. In the afternoon, the weather improved and the sun came out and we suddenly saw the wonderful views of the Rwenzori Mountains – range after range of them. It also became very noticeable how the whole area we had been walking through had been badly damaged during the fire of February 2012.
Fire damaged vegetation is starting to regrow. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita.
Burnt stumps of trees or bushes were everywhere; fortunately, new small plants and shoots were appearing but I have been told it may take up to 20 years for these areas to fully recover since many plants grow at quite a slow rate at this high attitude.
Glimpse of the peaks. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita Peak
By 11:00 am we had reached the high point of 4400 metres and were at the top of the pass where you have views towards Mount Stanley and Baker’s. The sun was shining and, despite the altitude headache, we could not have enjoyed clearer, better views. This is what we had come to see – wonderful indeed!
Next, we began the descent to another river valley; you might think that going down would be easier but not in the Rwenzoris – still you need to balance and check where to step (plus endure the continual impact on your knees as you land your weight on each one). Seeing a Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird enjoy the weather was a highlight of our two 2 hour hike to the bottom of the hill. After lunch we set off again “just around the corner” of a lake, as our guide Richard called it. We continued around the tranquil-looking lake on what appeared to be a used route (but not what you would call a path as there were huge boulders higher than me) as well as clips, hills and weaving areas of mud that we had to make our way through.
Descent to a river valley – not as easy as it looks! Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita
By this stage our fit and fast hiker Helen was way ahead with Moses, one of our guides. Next there were me and Andrew with Paul bringing up the rear, all coping in our various personal ways with the hiking conditions.
Our guide Richard was doing a wonderful job, showing me the best routes and where to step. At other times he hung back to help ensure Andrew and Paul were coping well too. By around 4:00 pm we were “around the corner” (which you may have gathered was not quite the usual corner we imagine but rather longer indeed) and in a valley. Here we could see the next section of our hike towards our next camp: Hunwick’s Camp at 3974 metres, which of course was over the next hill and into the next valley… We started through the bog again – tussock-hopping and choosing as many ‘low mud impact footholds’ as we could and then up the hill……quite a tough one for the end of a long day like this. We eventually rocked into Hunwick’s Camp at around 6.00 pm totally exhausted and feeling like we have reached the end of our energy levels. Thank goodness the weather had held and we were able to see the wonderful views of Mount Baker with its snow and glacier blinking in the late afternoon sun.
View from Hunwick’s Camp. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita Peak
The headache was there again and some swelling of our face and ankles were starting to be apparent (first signs that our bodies were not doing well in the altitude). Andrew’s feet were killing him as he was wearing gum boots with such thin soles he felt he could “tell if a coin placed underneath his boot was head or tails.”
That night was cold. Despite two sleeping bags, two layers of clothes, my hat and a fleece over the top of that, the wind whistled around our camp and seemed to find cracks to blow directly into my back. Getting up for the inevitable night time pee was not fun and I came back to bed exhausted from the effort, feeling quite short of breath at times. It was at this point that I began to wonder what I was doing all this for.
Rwenzori trekking – Day four – and a day off
The next morning my small mirror revealed a new face – one that was so puffy and swollen that my eyes were just small slanty slits, the effect of not coping well with the altitude, I was told. I therefore decided I would not go on further to Margherita Peak but rather have a rest day and then return downwards (which actually involved going back up to 4400 metres before the real descent). Andrew and Paul followed suit while we waved Helen off as she decided to push onto the Peak.
A day’s rest at Lake Kitandara. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita
We spent the day relaxing and enjoying sunshine, taking a stroll down into the nearby valley near the twin lake of Kitandara. It felt wonderful to walk without time pressure and to stop and enjoy the scenery.
A botanist’s dream: the Rwenzori plants are out of this world – huge and strikingly beautiful.
We stopped at Lake Kitandara Hut, where we met a geology student with her team. She explained that Mount Baker has risen at least 3 mm each year for the last few years, possibly due to extreme heat and pressure in the base of the Rwenzori Mountain range in the earth’s crust. The mountain is actually moving slowly northwards too.
We basked in the late afternoon sunlight until it disappeared behind the tops of the mountains – and evening arrived quite suddenly.
Space age insulated accommodation! Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita
The accommodations were very comfortable, especially considering where we were. We slept in two rounded, framed huts with waterproof outer covers and insulated walls. Each hut has four sets of bunk beds. Meals and copious cups of tea are taken at the tables and benches in the separate dining tent.
Rwenzori trekking – Day six
After a rather restless night worrying about going back up the mountain to go down, we woke early. After our usual heavy breakfast, we hiked back down into the valley “Around the Corner” and back along the lakeside before taking a short break and then heading up the river valley again. It was tough going and quite warm too. The stream provided wonderful clean water to help quench our thirst and, closer to the top, we looked backward for a full view of so many mountains: Mount Stanley and numerous peaks, including Alexandra, Elena and Mount Speke, Mount Baker, Weisman and other peaks we tried to identify thanks to the lovely, clear blue skies.
Watching the world go by… Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita
Over the top of the Banwanjara Pass, we sat for some time watching the clouds move up and around Mount Stanley tantalizing us as we kept hoping to see Margherita Peak. As clouds cleared, we watched; at the last moment the clouds would change their minds and U-turn to block out that section again and again. The sun was lovely and warm and the striking views all around us were perfect; just what we felt we deserved after all the tough hiking.
However it was not over yet for the day and reluctantly we moved down through the areas of open rock, bogs and riverbeds full of boulders, previously climbed in misty, wet conditions. Evidence of the fire of 2012 was quite prevalent in this area and, looking back towards Kasese, we could see range after range of Rwenzori Mountains, making us realize the large distance we had covered over the last few days.
Bugata Camp. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita
Arriving at Bugata Camp was like returning home: warm showers and hot cups of tea were ready for us. This time we had the pleasure of swapping mountain stories and sharing the camp with visitors who had just completed Margherita Peak.
Rwenzori trekking – Day seven
From this point, we had to decide which final route we would take down the mountain: the different (harder) route or the same (easier) route by which we came up. We opted for the easier route in the end (I think our guides and porters were quite pleased with our choice too).
Board walks help trekkers cross bogs and swamps. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita
The route that had taken us over 7 hours up, now only took us around 5 hours down, even with stopping to photograph many of the plants and scenery we had missed due to the bad weather on the upward journey.
We were back at Mutima Cave by mid-afternoon, where it was time to reorganize our luggage, dry out our socks by the fire and munch our way though some of our leftover snacks – suddenly with the lower altitude we were feeling peckish. After dinner we sat around the fire recounting stories and sipping our little flask of Whiskey or Amarula that we now felt it was safe to consume (apparently alcohol is not good for you at altitude) until we finally retired to bed, feeling rather relaxed and more comfortable at this lower altitude.
Rwenzori trekking – Day eight
A relaxed start of the day, heading for Kalalana Camp at 3134 metres which we had passed on our route. Here the beautiful Giant Lobelia stand almost two metres high with their long stems, purple flowers and leaves that hold the rainwater like a basin. Next we entered the Heather Zone. This same low-lying bushy plant (typical of the British countryside) grows into trees of over 15 metres high; often their branches are covered in the white Old Man’s Beard. Presumably we had become more hardy and a bit fitter; whilst the route was still quite rocky or boggy at times, we found the route quite pleasant and enjoyable. Through the day we had clear views back towards Kasese Town, making us realize how far we had hiked and why we felt quite tired from the exertion of the last week.
The vegetation is larger than life! Giant Lobelia. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita
By around 3:00 pm we were in camp where we relaxed in the afternoon sunshine, feeling so much more energetic now that we were down to just 3100 metres. We sat down to hear Helen tell us about her journey to the Peak: Margherita. She had enjoyed a cloud- and wind-free morning – perfect conditions for a summit day.
Not everyone manages to summit Margherita Peak – but Helen did. Rwenzori trekking: snow on the Equator!
We heard how tough it was hiking in crampons up the two glaciers and how she’d had to step over deep, dodgy-looking crevices in the ice. Helen had succeeded in reaching the Peak at 5109 metres above sea level – quite an achievement for sure.
Margherita Peak is 5109 metres above sea level
Our last evening up the mountain, we celebrated with the last few snacks and a good dinner of fresh roasted chicken (that had miraculously arrived up the mountain from a resupply from Kasese), the last of our “bar” and swapped anecdotes from the journey of the last eight days. By 10:00 pm we were all fast asleep, even with the wind howling and the rain battering our hut roof.
Rwenzori trekking – Day nine
The last day arrived with gloomy skies threatening rain but nothing could scare us now, so off we set again downwards, through the bamboo zone, slipping and sliding down the slopes and into the afro Alpine mountain forest zone. We wound our way down very steep paths that I could not quite believe I had managed to climb only a week earlier. The path seemed to go on forever and it was only around 2:00 pm that we made it to a recognizable point. At the park entry gate, the same clerk who had signed us in to Rwenzori Mountains National Park now asked us to sign out.
Three-horned Chameleon putting on a show for the cameras. Rwenzori trekking Ruwenzori Mountains, Uganda
The final hour Rwenzori trekking was through hillside villages and finally onto the road via the Kasese Cobalt Mine village and the Rwenzori Trekking Services office and home base where we were warmly welcomed back – and offered an ice cold beer – just the ticket indeed! After a few photos and a small award ceremony with our guides and porters who had been so patient and helpful the whole journey, we headed to Ndali Lodge for a couple of nights of rest and relaxation after this epic journey.
What a sense of achievement we all felt having made it up the mountain and back and experiencing everything it had to offer – both positive and negative – sunshine, rain, cold, mud, wonderful views, plants, birds, beauty, balancing challenges and much more.
Planning your Rwenzori trekking – what to consider before you book
About the Rwenzori Mountains
Rwenzori Mountains National Park was gazzetted [made into a national park] in 1991 and is recognized as both a World Heritage site and a Ramsar site. The park is 996km2 and the mountain range’s highest point is Margherita Peak – 5,109m above sea level – on Mt Stanley, a mountain that is bisected by the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo. The Rwenzoris were christened the “Mountains of the Moon” by the Alexandrine geographer Ptolemy in AD 150. Read more about the
Rwenzori Mountains National Park on the Uganda Wildlife Authority web site.
Route
Remember: you don’t have to climb – or summit – Margherita Peak itself. There are a range of shorter hiking options, all with the same dramatic backdrops.
Best time of year for Rwenzori trekking
Feedback from friends suggests that January, February and March are the best months to trek as it is the driest time of the year.
I almost climbed the Rwenzori Mountains… I had just I climbed Uganda’s Mt. Elgon with volunteer friends, but my knee injury on day one of our five-day trek meant I was still out of action when my friends summited the Rwenzori’ s Margherita Peak that November. When I asked whether they had enjoyed their trip, they said NO! …. After all their planning and training? I couldn’t quite believe it! Their mistake? They had chosen to hike during the rainy season when certain sections of the trek are hellishly boggy, making progress very difficult and tiring. Time your hike right, and you will enjoy this once-in-a-lifetime experience far more.
Fitness and medical issues
Rwenzori trekking requires a good level of fitness. You will be asked about your general health when you book your trek.
Altitude sickness can be a problem for many people. I know, I’ve had it. It’s not nice. (Think combination of seasickness and sunstroke, with a banging headache for good measure). The best way to avoid altitude sickness is to ascend slowly. It’s highly recommended that you consider taking a day off mid-climb, as Jane did, to acclimatise to the high altitude. Even if you don’t summit, you may benefit from a day’s rest and acclimatisation. Having experienced altitude sickness myself, I will definitely take a rest day when I climb the Rwenzoris.
Insurance
If you’re planning to climb the Ruwenzori’s, particularly if you are climbing Margherita, you are advised to take out travel insurance.
Emergency contacts
You will need to provide these when you sign the disclaimer form before starting your trek.
Who to trek the Rwenzoris with
Rwenzori Trekking Services are generally acknowledged as the best operator in Uganda for trekking the Rwenzoris. Their tours are inclusive of Rwenzori Mountains National Park entry fees, which are $35/day (2020 price for international tourists ‘foreign non-resident’ visiting the Rwenzoris).
Porters are allowed to carry a maximum of 15 kg each. This will include your clothes, hiking and camping equipment and all your food. The porters will collect firewood and water every evening for you at camp so you only need to carry one day’s personal supply of drinking water at a time. Do not even think of climbing without the help of a porter – not only will you be able to focus on enjoying the breath-taking scenery, you’re providing valuable employment. Expect to pay $15 per porter per day. A tip of $5-10 per day will make your porter very happy indeed.
Ranger guides
Since you will be walking in the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, you will be allocated two or more armed Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers who will act as your guides throughout the trip. Expect to be Facebook friends by the end of it! These guys will also appreciate a tip.
Walking pole
Invaluable! No need to spend money on one of those fancy walking poles, just ask one of the guides to cut down a piece of bamboo for you.
Waterproof clothing
Don’t scrimp on the quality of your rain jacket. It can make or break your trip. Ensure you only buy the best quality and make sure it is tested. It’s a vital part of your kit on this mountain where it can rain for days on end.
What to carry in your day pack
Your day pack (personal rucksack) should contain your waterproof jacket and waterproof trousers, drinking water, sunscreen, mosquito repellent and snacks.
Snacks
Stock up on plenty of your favourite snacks. G’ nuts (groundnuts), biscuits, bananas and dried fruit will give you more energy than chocolate and sweets.
Water
To keep hydrated at altitude, you will need to drink at least two litres of drinking water per day, even in cold weather. The porters collect and boil water every night. By the time you drink it the next morning, it will have cooled nicely.
Footwear
Hiking boots with ankle support are the best option. Leave your trainers at home, they don’t have enough grip. If you plan to wear Wellington ‘gum’ boots, get some good insoles. My recommendation is to wear ankle-high boots with gaiters, which will keep out a lot of rain and water (and most insects).
Hot water bottle
I love Jane’s tip about the improvised water bottles! However, you could take a proper hot water bottle with you (I certainly will! I remember how bloody cold it was on Mount Elgon at night…) Remember, you will have a porter to carry everything for you.
The Muzungu: thanks Jane for sharing your great adventure! I’m seriously considering trekking the Rwenzoris now – I know how hard it was to get as far as you did, and you’ve proved to me that there is no need to push yourself to the extreme and summit. What a brilliant experience you’ve had!
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Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Angela Dempsey, who was so captivated by her first impressions of Uganda that she contacted me to ask if she could share her experience. Here it is.
I felt a tension, a feeling of foreboding, when I saw a hundred-or-so young Ugandan soldiers lining up in the airport to board a bus in the night. I couldn’t help but wonder where the bus would take these young men next and if they would ever return. Perhaps it was just a routine training expedition but in this part of Africa it was hard for me not to jump to the conclusion that it was war.
Clothes drying on the line
Ugandans and their neighboring countries have wrestled against war for decades. Since the 1980s, Ugandans have endured tragic losses caused by the Lord’s Resistance Army (LRA). In the Acholi region of northern Uganda, where most of the ladies of Aggie’s Arts were born, more than a million people were forced to flee their homes. A large number of those refugees found their way to the south and ended up living in the slums of the capital city of Kampala.
One person I know has likened Kampala to a post-apocalyptic city—like some scene from a sci-fi movie. The roads are paved but there are potholes everywhere. There exists what I term “half-buildings”, abandoned mid-construction, everywhere you turn. The dust of the stripped land of red clay permeates the air and mixes with the pollution of cars and motorcycles to create a hovering cloud over the city. Many of the restaurants, hotels, private residences, schools and churches are surrounded by a 10-foot cement block wall with barbed wire along the top perimeter and have one single-gated entry point with armed guards to ensure no weapons are brought inside. All of this contributes to this surreal sense that you have entered a place that intuitively knows that safety is only a mirage and peace is still a dream.
Woman eating a traditional Ugandan lunch. Aggie’s Arts Uganda
“There is an air of quiet perseverance, kindness and timidity in the Ugandan people that one can only attribute to those who have suffered and survived. This attitude makes you want to help them all the more.”
What really amazed me was the contrast between these surroundings and the people. I observed them as they walked everywhere in their nicely pressed outfits—men in buttoned down shirts and slacks and women in nice dresses with children strapped to their backs. They smile. They work hard. I found Ugandans to be friendly to outsiders when one might expect there to be distrust.
I saw this same attitude in many of our Aggie’s Arts ladies as we visited them in their homes in Banda, a slum outside Kampala.
I was fortunate to be in Banda with the ladies on a Saturday, which is laundry day. There is something about the universal chore of laundry that made me feel immediately connected with their community. They hand washed their few clothes and hung them out in the sun like my grandmother used to do. There was no denying as I walked through this area of the world that life is very, very hard here.
Ugandan kids have the best smiles!
Children are everywhere I walk.
They gaze at me with dark, curious eyes. Many of them called out “Muzungu!” (the name of anyone who has white skin) and they want to shake my hand and say “good morning.” I see a small group of children playing soccer (football) and I think of my nine-year old daughter who would love to join them. Smiling faces in the midst of such poverty is disarmingly beautiful and poignant at the same time. Sadly, for many of these impoverished children, working at the rock quarry or having a child in their early teens will soon truncate any opportunity for education or play time.
A child helping with the clothes washing
Most of the homes I observe are small, 10 foot by 12 foot dwellings about the size of my front porch at home in the U.S. That space is then divided by a thin curtain to keep the living space separated from the sleeping space. The kitchen consists of a small charcoal pit with a pan for cooking and is located just outside. There is no indoor plumbing; no toilets other than a shared hole in the ground surrounded by walls, nearby. If they are lucky, they have a spigot (water tap) nearby and can pay someone for water so that they don’t have to walk miles carrying heavy water from the main spout near the road. Unfortunately, the cost of this water is so high they end up walking anyway. Food is made up of greens, a cornmeal mixture made into “porridge” and rice or beans. The ladies said they usually eat one meal a day.
There is an undeniable desire to help that pierces your heart when you see these ladies, their families, and their hardships. As I boarded the plane to go back home, I knew that I had learned much during my interviews with the ladies and my experience in Uganda. I walked away having seen the transformation that can happen when people are given the opportunity to provide for themselves and their loved ones through the work of their own hands. I am convinced more than ever that Aggie’s Arts is working. I also realized that Aggie’s Arts, here in the U.S., is a vital part of that transformation.
People have asked me if I’d like to go back. Knowing there is still much work to be done, I give a wistful reply of “Someday.” Hopefully, it won’t be too long.
The ladies of Aggie’s Arts Uganda pose for a group photo. First impressions of Uganda
About Angela Dempsey
Angela Dempsey has been a youth mentor, a missionary, a mechanical engineer, and a leadership trainer. She has lived in the U.S. and France. She is a lover of people, travel, and family. She is also a great admirer of coffee, chocolate, and classic literature. She lives in Alabama with her husband, Robb, their two beautiful girls, and a tuxedo cat named Shadow. She is currently the President of the Board of Directors for Aggie’s Arts, Inc. Her trip to Uganda took place in March 2014. Ms. Dempsey may be contacted at adempseywork[at]gmail.com
The Muzungu: thanks Angela for sharing your story. It’s always interesting to see the world through someone else’s eyes. Here is one of my very first blogs about Uganda: Touchdown Africa – a letter home.
Do you have a story you’d like to share? Please read my Guests Posts page for guidelines on the kinds of stories I feature on Diary of a Muzungu.
Is climbing Mount Kilimanjaro on your travel bucket list? I love hiking, but there’s a lot more to it than just being fit, as the Muzungu found out when I climbed (the comparatively low!) Mt. Elgon in Uganda.
Thanks to guest writer Apollo Makubuya for sharing your humbling Kilimanjaro experience! Apollo is a lawyer and fellow Kampala Hash House Harrier. Tales of a Novice Climber was first published in Uganda’s Sunday Vision newspaper. All rights reserved.
Apollo writes:
At the stroke of midnight, we were startled by loud bangs on the door.
It was the mountain guides who excitedly rushed in the dormitory-like room, flashing tiny torches strapped around their heads. John, the chief guide announced it was time to start our final ascent to the summit of Kilimanjaro.
Rainbow over Horombo Base Camp. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
In fact, John’s midnight call shouldn’t have come as a surprise: once we had reached Kibo Base Camp, he had briefed us on what to expect.
Yet, for Isaac and I, the call seemed untimely and invasive. Firstly, because we were exhausted from two days of climbing from Marangu to Mandara and later on to Horombo Base Camps. We were desperate to catch some sleep and to recover. Secondly, because of the high altitude and the cold, I felt sick. In our dreary state, combined with the deep anxiety about the final climb, the lack of sleep and the darkness that surrounded us, the call to get out of bed was sad news – but we had little choice, we had come so far. We also had a deep desire to reach the summit.
Without further procrastination, we had to quickly get up and brace ourselves for the ascent. John’s insistent directives that we “eat or drink more water” floated past us: the only thing we could think of taking was more Panadol.
Surprisingly, once outside, I felt a lot better and ready for the climb. At this stage of our climb up Kilimanjaro, it was just me, Isaac, John and Alan. The rest of the porters were to stay behind and await our return.
Before we set off we huddled and asked God to guide and protect us on this invincible journey.
“Where am I going?” A walk in the barren wilderness. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
The idea to climb a mountain was one I have had for some time. I was never clear which mountain it would be.
Once, I’d driven to the base of Mount Meru. This increased my interest in mountains. So, when Diana asked me to join an excursion she was planning to Kilimanjaro, I was quick to say yes, and to recruit Isaac on the team.
The challenges associated with climbing any mountain, let alone Mount Kilimanjaro – especially the need for special climbing gear and training in a high altitude environment – only dawned on me much later.
My casual approach to the affair was partly because I had been physically active in the weeks before the climb. However, as the date for the climb approached and I gathered more information, it was clear that we needed to acquire and carry a whole range of things including woollen hats, upper body layers, fleece jackets, gloves, rain parka, long underwear bottoms, wool pants, rain trousers, tights, heavy wool socks, hiking boots, sleeping bags, head lamps, walking sticks, rucksacks, water bottles and a whole host of ointments and medicines.
While Diana seemed to have her act together, Isaac and I made a last minute effort to get these items in Kampala. The only problem was that no single shop in Kampala sells winter or mountain gear! Our only recourse was to get the stuff from Owino – a downtown second-hand clothes market – via Sula, Isaac’s old friend. Sula’s efforts to find this gear in Kampala were both impressive and hilarious. Impressive – because for about $100 he came up with so many bags, jackets, gloves and woollen hats that you would never expect to be in Uganda. Hilarious – because he bought stuff like bulky full-length woollen jackets that were clearly incompatible with mountain climbing. But, thanks to his efforts, we were saved from the exorbitant rates that the mountain guides charge for the same used items at Moshi.
Anxious trekkers – Climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
We set off for Kilimanjaro on Friday and started the climb at Marangu Gate (1,970m) the next day, with a team of ten porters. Led by Albert and John, the porters carried the food, water and cooking equipment necessary for our stay on the mountain. We hikers carried lighter loads – cameras, rain jackets, water and snacks.
On day one we enthusiastically trekked for about four hours through thick montane tropical forest belt from Marangu Gate to Mandara Base Camp. The guides had to occasionally restrain us from moving faster, advising that we should go pole pole i.e. slowly. As some form of initiation or cleansing, we were pelted by rain as soon as we started the trek, so it was a relief to reach Mandara Base Camp (2,700m) late afternoon. The camp, encircled by thick forest alive with Blue Colobus monkeys, was nothing much to write home about; neither was the food – popcorn, biscuits, pasta and cabbage soup – nor the crammed bunk beds in the triangle-shaped green tin-roofed cabins that we shared. For bathing, we were each provided with a small plastic bowl of warm water.
Climbing Kilimanjaro. Diana, Isaac and Apollo with Mawenzi Peak in the background
Thus on day two, we were eager to get on with a seven-hour hike that passed through open and scenic heath and moorland of the Kilimanjaro. The vegetation was completely different from the previous day, the route more hilly and jagged. The pace was thus slower and the conversation limited. We crossed several bridges with small rivers rapidly flowing downhill. For the first time we saw the peaks of the mountain in a distance. This increased our adrenaline.
On their descent, we greeted – with a simple Jambo – other climbers and laden porters. Knowing what I know now, some of those Jambo were a form of sympathy for what they knew lay ahead for us. Climbing Kilimanjaro can be a life and death affair. At least ten people die annually trying to climb Mount Kilimanjaro. About 30% of those who attempt it fail because of Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) that hits randomly – regardless of sex, age or fitness.
Well-trodden trails through breath-taking vegetation. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
The day’s trek ended at Horombo Base Camp (3,720m). Here the temperatures were markedly cooler and the environment more serene. For some reason there was more activity and movement of guards, porters and climbers. As was the routine, we quickly checked into our triangular black-roofed cabin and later to a small dining hall. At dinnertime, Diana declared her wise decision to rest the next day in order to acclimatize more. No amount of persuasion would dissuade her, yet Isaac and I were keen to finish the climb in five days so that we could visit the Ngorongoro Crater before returning home to Kampala. In the end, we sadly agreed to split our team and leave her behind with Albert.
In spite of the exhaustion, I struggled to catch any sleep that night. The tight and unfamiliar sleeping bag did not help.
“So near yet so far” – Uhuru Peak behind me was in fact two days walk away. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
At about 9.00 a.m. on day three, Isaac and I set our eyes on Kibo Base Camp. John, our new chief guide, set the pace for yet another seven-hour trek. As we moved along we noticed yet another drastic change both in the vegetation and the temperature. At this height we were seeing the clouds below us and it felt as if we were at once floating and walking. Our pace was even slower. The need for the wool jackets, gloves and scarfs was rising. Short and sparse green shrubs and giant alpine palms replaced the lush moorland. The landscape was filled with huge ancient-looking rocks covered with moss. At about 2.00 p.m. we stopped briefly for a sandwich at a place between Mawenzi and Kibo peaks called “The Saddle.”
The hike thereafter was in a barren alpine desert. It was a tough walk in the wilderness. No life, no vegetation at all. All we could see were endless miles of hilly grounds with brown/reddish sandy soils and rocks. A drab sight. The melancholy was heightened by stories of descending climbers who had given-up on the climb and not “summited”. The sight of scampering porters evacuating a dazed climber on a stretcher – also known as the “Kilimanjaro Taxi” – did not help lift our spirits.
“When the going gets tough…” climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
By the time we reached Kibo Base Camp (4,700m) we were completely knackered. Staring at us was Gilman’s Point, one of Kilimanjaro’s peaks. The point was so high above us, and the air so windy and hazy, that it was impossible to tell how on earth, we were going to reach the top. Opposite us was the chiselled Mawenzi peak standing at 5,149m. But if the Horombo Camp was cold, the Kibo Camp, perched on top of aged mean-looking rocks, was freezing! In no time we were ushered in and locked up in a dormitory structure. Isaac just crashed on top of his bunk bed in a sleeping bag – complete with shoes, gloves, scarf and jacket. Without any heating, it felt colder in the room than it was outside. I was shivering from deep inside and my head was throbbing. No amount of ginger tea could warm me up. Yet, John had said, we had just a few hours to rest before we started the final climb at midnight.
I did not rest, especially because when the “chef” served us our last meal – before the final ascent, my stomach refused to hold it. So, as I lay nauseated in my sleeping bag, I dreaded the moment that John and the rest would come for us. Many difficult thoughts were whizzing in my mind:
“Shall we make it?
How did I end here?
Could I have prepared myself better?
Will the headache get worse?”
A dry Protea Kilimanjaro plant “at maturity the flowers dry and open up and the lifeless form appears to have been burnt by a bush fire” – Climbing Kilimanjaro.
As those thoughts ran in my mind, there were loud knocks on the door. It was John and Co. The moment had arrived. Feeling like a zombie, I sat up and started dressing up in several layers of T-shirts, sweatshirts and a jacket for the upper-body and the same number of layers for the lower body plus Sula’s two pairs of thick knee-high stockings.
The final climb from Kibo Camp to Uhuru (Mount Kilimanjaro’s highest peak) ordinarily takes five hours. The ascent starts at night so that one can see the sunrise from the peak – or so we were told. I suspect though that the real reason for this timing is to avoid the terrifying sight of steep slopes and heights ahead of climbers.
We began the ascent in slow motion, heads bowed, clutching the special walking sticks. For the first few hours, as if in a funeral procession, we moved slowly in the dark and in total silence. It felt eerie. Once we passed the Indian and William Points, completely out of the blue, my stomach stiffened and I started throwing-up again. I sat down to stabilise and got up after a few minutes. Strangely after the episode I felt stronger and got a second wind. In jest, John said “it’s good to get rid of the bad stuff.”
It wasn’t funny.
Giant Groundsel Senecio (Dendrosenecio kilimanjari) first appeared on Mount Kilimanjaro more than one million years ago. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
Far ahead of us we saw moving lights. We thought they were moving stars. But it was another group of climbers using a different route. Although it was good to know that there were others on the trail, we were discouraged because they seemed to move much faster. With stars on my mind, and about three quarters up the mountain, I had another attack. I sat on a rock and went through the motions.
I felt dizzy. John and Isaac were visibly worried. Somehow this scared me more than anything else. I was in their hands. “Was this the dreaded AMS?”
A decision had to be made on whether I should return to the camp. But, AMS or not, returning to the camp was out of the question for me. I convinced myself that I would be ok. Encouraged by my resolve, the rest agreed to continue. Phew!
Our guide predicted that this glacier will disappear in a few years. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
After this point, our pace reduced drastically, made worse by the snake-like path from the Hans Mayer Point.
We were moving in a zigzag way and making little headway. Every few minutes, we needed to sit down to catch some breath. Strangely Isaac tended to doze off each time he sat down. No amount of glucose could boost my energy levels. On the horizon we saw the sun rising ahead of us yet we had not yet reached the peak. We were behind schedule. The air was very thin and our breathing very hard. There is 50% less oxygen than at sea level here. Gilman Point was almost 100m away. The guides figured it would take us another 30 minutes. We needed to be there before the sun fully came out. The guides must have been irritated by our snail’s pace and constant breaks. In what seemed like an eternity, and after climbing one boulder after another, we literally crawled up to the top of Gilman’s Point (5,681m).
It was a most sobering experience. Isaac there first. John and I followed in a few minutes. Time check was about 6.30 a.m.: it had taken us six and a half hours to reach Gilman’s Point. The sun was fully out.
At the top, I found Isaac motionless on a rock with his head in his hands. The woollen hat covered his face. I wondered what was going on in his mind… He must have fallen asleep! He didn’t seem interested in anything else in the world, not even taking pictures. Apparently his camera had frozen. Thus while it was a moment of accomplishment it was not one of much jubilation. There was no energy for that.
“I made it!” The summit of Gilman’s Point. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
At Gilman’s Point, we saw for the first time the entirety of the snow-capped peak of the Kilimanjaro with its gaping white crater plus the unbelievable glaciers that surrounded us. It was a “wowing” new, white frozen world. I could not take enough pictures and momentarily forgot the exhaustion and pain of getting there. After a few minutes it was time to stand up and get going to the next peak. But Isaac was to have none of that! Enough was enough.
I wanted to continue to the next peaks of Stellar (5,739m) and Uhuru (5,895m) – both of which were within sight – but the thought of leaving my man behind got me confused. So even though we agreed that I continue on my own, after walking a few steps in the snow towards the next peak, my legs became weak and I turned back.
It was an anti-climax.
I felt wholly drained. I soon caught up with Isaac to begin the descent. And what a perilous descent it was!
A sobering thought: it’s predicted that this glacier will disappear in a few years… so climb Kili now. Climbing Kilimanjaro. Apollo Makubuya
I cannot count the times each of us fell on the way down.
To increase the pace while saving energy, we tried gliding on some loose gravel but this led to even more falls. At one point Isaac fell and failed to get up. He was sick. It took at least ten minutes for him to revive. Clearly we had not reserved energy for the descent.
And while the Kibo Base Camp was in sight, it was like a mirage; it seemed to get further and further away as we approached it. We finally got there at 11.30 a.m. whereupon John told us to take two-hour rest before we pack up and leave for Horombo – some seven hours away!
Without any options and not wanting to suffer the “Kilimanjaro Taxi,” we left Kibo at about 2.00 p.m. and endured a repeat journey in the wilderness. On the way, we met Diana and Albert and wished them the best with a Jambo! (Both made it successfully to Uhuru the next day).
By the time we got to Horombo, we were finished. It was impossible to imagine how we would make it to Maranga the next day. Thankfully John and his crew negotiated for us to hitch a ride to Moshi town with the mountain guards after we had covered a few miles the next day.
A true Hasher! Apollo appreciating the local brew
We are lucky to live to tell the tale of an extraordinary, exhilarating and humbling climb to the top of Africa. Jambo!
Thanks Apollo for sharing your amazing experience. Apollo Makubuya is a lawyer and fellow Hash House Harrier. Tales of a Novice Climber was first published in Uganda’s Sunday Vision newspaper. All rights reserved.
Mt Kili Madness” – breaking cricket world records at 5,752 metres!
In other news, on 26 September 2014, Mount Kilimanjaro was the setting for the Highest-altitude cricket match, as recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records. “Mt. Kili Madness” was played at 5,752 m (18,871 ft) above sea level, in a dormant volcano crater on Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania. Two of the African-based charities that benefit from “Mt. Kili Madness” include the Cricket Builds Hope and Tusk, the wildlife conservation charity.
“Mount Kili Madness” recorded a new Guinness World Record for cricket in September 2014
Uganda’s National Anthem – A plea to Ugandans from Meronie Agaba
Uganda Conservation Foundation’s Map of Uganda. Anti-poaching and human wildlife conflict projects with the Uganda Wildlife Authority in Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks
In recent weeks, Uganda has been alive with talk about the perceived need to ‘jazz-up’ the country’s National Anthem. “Oh Uganda, Land of Beauty” was adopted in 1962 with words and music composed by George Wilberforce Kakoma.
Coincidentally, Meronie Agaba recently sent me her “Love letter to Motherland Uganda” – her interpretation of the National Anthem’s meaning and a plea to Ugandans to reconnect with their common heritage.
Background to Uganda’s National Anthem debate
Tourism Minister Maria Mutagamba announced that Ugandan playwright Alex Mukulu was in charge of a project worth about 180 m Uganda shillings ($75,000). The Minister explained that the objective was not to change the anthem but to portray its message in drama as a tool for promoting Uganda and to help an increasingly-indifferent Ugandan public identify with their mother country.
This project has polarised debate, with many Ugandans totally against any messing around with what they consider a sacred song. According to Uganda’s Observer newspaper“This whole obsession with aesthetics seems to speak to the hankerings of more impressionable youth that prize form over substance. Uganda’s national anthem is not terribly wanting, and the country has more pressing needs on which it could spend Shs 180 m.”
Meronie Agaba: “This tribute is my love letter to motherland Uganda.”
Pair of Cape Buffalo in Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda. Spot the Oxpeckers on their backs, cleaning the animals of ticks!
Oh Uganda my motherland
May God uphold thee
As we lay our future into thy hands
Through prayer and repentance, staying on our knees,
With our hands lifted up to the king of kings, God almighty
Committing ourselves, our nation, to you
A handsome Uganda Kob poses for the camera in Murchison Falls National Park
That you oh God shall give us a Vision
To acknowledge that blessed is the nation whose God is the Lord.
For Unity, Freedom, and Liberty we stand
Together as one, committed to serve our Motherland
Crested Crane, the emblem of Uganda. PHOTO Andy Gooch
Interview with Meronie Agaba
The Muzungu: What made you decide to write this poem?
Meronie Agaba: I have a deep passion for my country and humanity at large. If I was a singer I could compose love songs for Uganda!
The spark to write this poem came when the late Kakoma, composer of the Uganda National Anthem, passed on. Others wrote eulogies to him in the newspapers, but I had no access to that audience so I went back to the National Anthem and read it again and again, trying to find out what message he actually wanted to put forward for Ugandans. As I did this, I got a deeper sense and understanding of the anthem and came to appreciate it almost as a living piece of writing since its messages actually portray what Uganda is today. I got my pen and paper and wrote the poem, which I would say came out as a deeper interpretation of the National Anthem.
The Muzungu: So what is your view on the current debate about changing Uganda’s National Anthem?
Meronie: I am against changing the National Anthem. I would rather the National Anthem is interpreted to the people so that Ugandans can relate with it more. The intention of the poem is to reveal the message underlying the Uganda National anthem.
The Muzungu: What are you hoping to achieve with this poem?
Meronie Agaba: I believe that for any relationship to develop and grow, deliberate efforts have to be taken. I want this poem to be a tool that I and others who believe in it can use to inspire, and develop attitudes of young Ugandans to appreciate their country, their role in upholding its pride, conserving nature and more. I want this poem to be a “Love song that every Ugandan can passionately sing for our Motherland.”
The Muzungu: What would you like people to think about when they read your poem?
Meronie Agaba: “Do not take my Motherland for granted! One time she conceived me, she nurtured me in her womb, I fed on her blood, and behold she delivered me. She was still young, green and energetic; she was fertile. Despite the many children, she fed them all, on the green plantain, the milk and the honey. The lakes and rivers that fed her were still fresh and clean. The tree canopies towered above my head; the scent of nature was still abundant, the soils were not yet sick. The wild fruit was still at large, foraging children returned to their homes satisfied, fed by none other but the plentiful Motherland. Now Mother Land is old and faded, the rivers are drying up, the swamps have become people’s living rooms, the tree canopies are bare stumps and the clean breath of nature is gone.
But I cry for a remedy, I say it’s not all over my children. Let’s amend our relationship, let’s reason together, stop killing your lifeline, I am Mother Land, do not hurt me, do not plot against me, do not strip me naked, respect my God-given Status, I am Mother Land!
When I cry you will cry along with me, when I smile you smile along with me! You are educated yes, I do appreciate that, but get some learning I say; I am your Motherland. Be united; you share a common heritage, Conserve nature and environment; without it you will die,
I am your Motherland, without you I would be a forest, but without me you would be homeless!
I am your Motherland, I am your hope, I am your future: I am Uganda!
Meronie on a boat trip on the River Nile in Murchison Falls National Park enjoying Uganda’s natural beauty
Namara Meronie B. Agaba mnagaba gmail dot com is a Business Development Manager based in Kampala. She is married with children. (No doubt Meron has been talking conservation with her husband Patrick, who I worked with at the Uganda Conservation Foundation for nearly 3 years.
Meronie’s love letter to motherland Uganda was first published in the February 2013 edition of “Tarehe Sita Magazine.”
So what do you think of Meronie’s poem Love letter to Motherland Uganda? Please put your comments below.
If you like her poem please share it on Facebook and elsewhere!
Do you have a story or some advice you’d like to share? Please read the Muzungu’s Guests Posts page for guidelines on the kinds of stories I feature on Diary of a Muzungu.
Assertiveness Training for Women Birders by Lorna Salzman
The Muzungu with young birder Hope at Kasenge on International Day of the Safari Guide. Photo courtesy of Titus Kakembo and Uganda Tourism Press Association
Thanks to Lorna Salzman for allowing me to republish this great article. I found it quite illuminating! And it might explain why in Uganda – a society that is dominated by men in almost every sphere – there are few female birdwatchers. Ladies of Uganda, please do not be dissuaded – read on! Gentlemen, this is quite educational.
This is a copy of an article written by Lorna Salzman in 2002, based on her personal experience. For background to the article, please scroll down the page.
Some people still think birding is a backyard hobby of little old ladies in tennis sneakers. In fact it has become a highly competitive contact sport for macho types, who vastly outnumber females in the field.
Looking at the strongly skewed ratio of male to female birders, it becomes clear that there must be special hazards and risks that discourage women from participating in this popular sport. And in much the same way that obstacles to women in other competitive sports have been gradually overcome, it is incumbent on the presently male-dominated birding community to overturn the barriers to female participation so as to achieve gender parity in the field.
The general dangers presented to all birders are always with us: ticks, snakes, chiggers, mosquitoes, jaguars, Montezuma’s Revenge and rental car breakdowns, though these are not found necessarily in the same place at the same time. Through the rapid communication offered by the internet and by specialized publications and bird clubs, birders have quickly learned how to minimize these omnipresent risks. With the exception of the professional trip leader who decided to investigate on behalf of his group a loud noise in the Indian jungle and was later found half-eaten by a tiger, most birders have learned how to keep insects more or less at bay, how to walk carefully on an untrodden trail, and how to recognize jaguar tracks. In any case, the risks posed by wildlife in the United States are generally far less than those of tropical countries.
But there is another risk that is ubiquitous, on all continents and in all climates, which uniquely targets women birders, and which requires careful, calculated responses: men. In order to sensitize themselves to this special hazard, and most of all to develop appropriate defensive measures, women need to understand the behavior and ecology of the male sex, or rather of that morph of the male sex whose niche lies in bird habitats.
All male birders should be regarded as alpha males, even those lacking the typical physical characteristics. Many of these who might otherwise have served in the US Marines or in major league football are, either literally or figuratively, 90-pound weaklings who never read a Charles Atlas ad or assumed it didn’t apply to them. But it does apply, whether they are 5’5″ or 6″6″‘ tall, because if they are the former, that makes them even more aggressive and competitive. Thus, women, on encountering male birders in the wild, should assume the worst and not judge male physical size and bulk alone.
African Fish Eagles on the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park
While some men may lack the physical equipment of alpha males, size matters in one crucial respect: binoculars. Apparently the binocular manufacturers are colluding with male birders. If you look carefully, you will see that nearly all the new improved binoculars advertised to and bought by the birding community are ten power rather than the old-fashioned seven or eight power type. And although new light materials are used, the new ten power binocs are extremely expensive and often heavier than the old type.
An analysis of these facts tells us that the manufacturers took the male birders aside and whispered in their ears: “Psst, I’ve got a great deal for you. These binoculars are very expensive so frugal women won’t buy them, and best of all they are too big and heavy for most women to carry, so you can spot those rare birds faster than they can”. A male birder hearing this is hooked because it means that he can make a rapid identification before the woman can focus on the bird, and in most cases the bird will already have flushed before she sees it, thus insuring that she cannot challenge the man’s ID.
It is important to understand the primary differences between men and women birders.
They have not only different behavior but different objectives and therefore different strategies. In the field these will frequently clash. Therefore Assertiveness Training is a fundamental prerequisite for women before they can hold their own. The male goals are:
maximization of species numbers;
being the first to spot a new bird;
finding a rarity.
Anything that interferes with or poses an obstacle to these is considered detrimental and hostile, and the male behavioral response to such obstacles is calculated accordingly.
Female birders’ objectives – and thus their strategies – are diametrically opposed to those of men: to have fun, learn about the ecology of birds, see interesting habitat and appreciate Nature. Thus, they should expect their presence in particular and participation in general to be regarded by male birders as hostile. With a little practice the following recommendations of adaptive behavior in the field should become second nature to women birders.
1. Your first impression is always correct. If you think you see a black bird with a yellow head, you have indeed seen one, even if this is literally your first foray into the field. Don’t let any male question your observation. You were right.
2. There are no “rare” birds. Most birds called “rare” by men are birds they studied with extreme care and memory training in a book, not birds they ever actually saw in their lifetime. In practice the birds called “rare” by men (and few will dare to challenge them) will be those that no one else saw or was able to see, such as the out-of-range Manx shearwater seen fifteen miles away on the horizon of a black ocean, on an overcast morning, during a pelagic trip 80 miles out to sea, with eight -foot swells and a wildly rocking boat. (I was on that boat so I know whereof I speak.)
If you find yourself in that situation, pull out your bird book and give the man a quiz: ask him to provide every field mark he saw and prove to everyone’s satisfaction that it was indeed a Manx. This may take some courage but you need not worry that his troops will come to his rescue; they are all inside the cabin, eyes closed, manifesting a peculiar shade of yellowish-green.
(Note: all beginning birders will sooner or later see a “rare” bird but eventually as the birders become more experienced, those rare sightings will diminish and eventually disappear).
Jacana bird on River Nile Jinja
3. Vernacular and traditional names are still valid such as Baltimore oriole and Myrtle warbler. Or Bluebill or timberdoodle. (Caution: the old-time vernacular for cormorants is disallowed). Don’t let the self-styled male experts intimidate you or demand that you recite the full list of the most recent AOU species splits. Traditional and vernacular names are a vital part of birding history and culture so use them at every opportunity to keep birding a popular, not an elitist, pastime.
4. It is better to be a Splitter than a Lumper nowadays. Scientific advances in DNA analysis mean that new species are being split off from previous parent species faster than you can say “Drink your tea”. But of course this can change so be alert.
5. DON’T, I repeat, don’t memorize birds from the book and then take off looking for them hither and thither. You will end up seeing memorized birds in wholly inappropriate habitats and will look foolish. Even worse, the B3 (Black Belt Birders, the avian equivalent of the Mafia) will put out a contract on you.
This happened on a trip in South America where a male, not a female, tripmate, having read about an ancient Oilbird spotting in the area, identified a single supposed Oilbird flying up a tiny stream at final dusk. He wasn’t concerned about the fact that South America has only a handful of Oilbird cave colonies, separated by hundreds or thousands of miles, or that Oilbirds emerge at night and travel huge distances to feed in huge flocks not on riverine vegetation but solely on oil palms, or that the bird he saw was about one quarter the size of an Oilbird. But the B3 were just getting organized so the spotting of the purported Oilbird – in reality a small duck — went unpunished. Today that spotter would be kneecapped had he been a woman, but being a man he got off with a light sentence: stepping out of a small boat, he slipped and fell into thick black mud up to his keister [kabina].
6. Be suspicious of any male birder who scorns the “clock” method of locating birds in a tree. This is hostility in the extreme because it is intended to impair or delay the enjoyment of the other birders.
This method, which uses the highest central point of the tree as high noon, and the sides of the tree as a.m. and p.m., is extremely useful and works very well, saving a lot of time for less experienced birders who might otherwise search every leaf and never find the bird. The same men who scorn the clock method are the ones who call out a new bird and, when asked where it is, hem and haw and say: well, I guess it’s out there in that tall tree between that small green shrub and that other tree, guaranteeing that by the time you have found the right tree the bird is gone. So the Guy chalks up the bird on his list and the others don’t.
This is what could be called Arboreal Upsmanship.
Dillon eyes up a spectacular Klaas’ Cuckoo
7. If you are a woman birder, NEVER bird in a group unless there is at least one other woman present, stick together, support each other, point out the birds to each other before you point them out to the men, and always take the offensive, not the defensive. If you see a new or unusual bird, do not under any circumstances allow your attention to be diverted away from the bird! Continue to study the bird and its characteristics and behavior, while noting its presence out loud so others can hear, but do not take down your binoculars or look away until you have examined it as best you can. All around you men will be demanding that you specify where it is; do not let them distract you until you are sure you have seen everything you need to see. You can be sure that if the situation were reversed, they would not defer to you.
Hold your ground.
8. On pelagic trips, always stand at the rail and never move away. When a bird is spotted and everyone crowds to the rail, remember that the men are taller than you and can see over or around you quite well. They can take care of themselves.
Finally, some words of encouragement for those women birders who have unwittingly and unwillingly let themselves become awed by male birders:
Whatever happens, it’s not your fault. The men are not always right. You are having more fun. (Note: names have been withheld to protect the innocent; the guilty will recognize themselves. All situations and incidents, however, are taken from real life).
Male birders in action! Expert bird guide friends Nathan and Roger Skeen on Entebbe Peninsula during Big Birding Day 2010
For identification purposes: Lorna Salzman, an environmental activist and writer, has traveled widely with her husband on most continents to see birds. She does not keep totals of birds seen.
Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Agwang Aidah, who is the Communications Officer at Ugandans Adopt. She writes to us about her work and why she believes it is so important:
“Ugandans Adoptwas founded on the belief that all children deserve to grow up with a loving family, instead of in institutional care.
During my interview for this role, I remember being asked what I thought about adoption in Uganda. I told the interview panel that I believed, while it is a relatively new concept in Uganda, all we had to do was put the word out.
My task as Communications Officer is to run our Ugandans Adopt multi media campaign promoting adoption in Uganda, supported by the Ministry of Gender, Labour and Social Development. 11 months later we have discovered the huge appetite that Ugandans have for adoption and have shattered the myth that “Ugandans aren’t interested in adoption.”
At our emergency care centre in Kampala, Malaika Babies’ Home, we provide short-term care for babies until we can find them a family. I’m usually based at our small offices at Malaika and every day brings something new. Seeing a little one go home to a loving family and how they blossom thereafter, are some of the special moments that I never tire of.
Love, home and family. The building blocks of a happy life
There have been times after I have accompanied our Social Work Team to collect a child who has been abandoned when I could almost break down but, fortunately, this is always short lived. In our care, the babies are so quick to thrive and, above all, love again.
To date we have 28 Ugandan families and individuals who have adopted children from Malaika and another 35 who are on a waiting list to adopt. Our social workers are currently assessing even more people who are interested in adopting, too. Our Ugandans Adopt Facebook page has 3,403 followers to date and growing every day. The Ugandan media has embraced our campaign and we have been able to appear on major media outlets like The Sunday Vision. I think it’s safe to say Ugandans’ are definitely more than just interested in adoption.
What makes my job so worthwhile is not just seeing a child go home but knowing, after our social workers conduct follow up visits, how truly happy the children are. It always brings a smile to my face. It is why I do what I do.
Sunday Vision Article. Ugandans Adopt
At Ugandans Adopt we strongly believe that every child belongs in a family – and we couldn’t achieve this without our supporters.
Thank you so much from all the team at Ugandans Adopt for helping us “make families instead of orphans.”
To find out more about our Ugandans Adopt Campaign, call Agwang Aidah on +256 776110304 or send an email to adoption@childsifoundation.org
The Muzungu: thanks Aidah for an insight into the great work you’re doing, creating happy families. Keep up the good work!
Do you have a story or some advice you’d like to share? Please read my Guests Posts page for guidelines on the kinds of stories I feature on Diary of a Muzungu.
This is a guide to taking your dog from Uganda to the UK, based on the personal experience of Adelaine Williams, an expat resident in Uganda. Much of this information will be relevant to international pet shipping to other countries but do check with the relevant authorities first. Addy’s dog’s name is Prince, making his full name ‘Prince Williams.’
As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers will know, Uganda has made me a big fan of dogs. I’d often wondered whether I would one day take my recycled street dog Baldrick to the UK from Uganda. Tragically, he had an accident, just around the time Addy emailed me this guide. I feel very sad that Balders and I will never make this journey together, but such is life. Like Prince, Baldrick was a rescue dog from the Uganda Society of the Prevention of Cruelty of Animals USPCA.
DISCLAIMER: this post was published in 2013 so we can’t guarantee all info is still uptodate. However, I do add small updates in the comments section.
Coming to Uganda gave me the chance to have my first dog, Baldrick, my partner in crime in many of my blog stories. Here are some of my favourite moments. More map ideas can be viewed on the Uganda Photo Souvenir Map Facebook page
Coming to Uganda gave me the chance to have my first dog, Baldrick, my partner in crime in many of my blog stories. Here are some of my favourite moments. More map ideas can be viewed on the Uganda photo souvenir map Facebook page
Addy kindly agreed that I could add her experience to Diary of a Muzungu as I know many people, particularly expats in Uganda, will find her experience invaluable. My dog trainer friend Ronald Kyobe of A to Z Mobile Dog Training Unit, Kampala is another great source of advice on anything to do with dogs in Uganda.
Addy writes:
My way is not the only way. A lot of my decisions were based on cost, not ease. Please note that details on taking pets to the UK from Uganda should be verified according to UK law on the Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) website. It should be noted that law and policy have changed frequently over the past year. CHECK THESE DETAILS!!! As such the author is not liable for any misinformation given in this guide.
Taking your dog to the UK. Prince Williams waiting to check in at Entebbe Airport, Uganda
Taking your dog to the UK. Prince Williams waiting to check in at Entebbe Airport, Uganda
How to take your dog from Uganda to the UK
Start the process early:
I found that it took many months to organise taking Prince back to the UK
Insert a microchip:
The vet should be able to tell you which type of microchip is best.
Department for Environment, Food & Rural Affairs (DEFRA) recommend (but this is not compulsory): ISO (International Standards Organisation) Standard microchips meeting specifications 11784 or Annex A of ISO Standard 11785 are used.
Register the microchip:
Register your microchip on the PETtrac UK Microchip Database www.pettrac.co.uk/owners. You also have to pay for this process. They will send you a certificate in the post. You will need to get this sent to you in Uganda. I managed to do this when I was in the UK for a visit. I’m not sure if it’s a legal requirement to certify the microship but I found the certificate was regularly checked on my journey home.
Vaccinate your dog against Rabies:
The dog should be vaccinated against Rabies after the microchip is inserted.
Make sure you keep the dogs vaccination records. Note: if just one of the vaccinations is given a day late, that may cause a problem.
I used a combination of Dr Alex ex-USPCA (tel +256 772433054) and Dr Berna from the veterinary clinic in Mutungo. I would recommend them both.
Wait at least 21 days:
After the micro-chipped dog has completed its first Rabies vaccination course, you need to wait at least 21 days before you and your dog can fly. Dogs are not allowed to fly until after this period. Ideally wait for one month.
Take your dog to the vet for a blood test:
After a minimum of 21 days, you can take the dog to the vets for a blood test to demonstrate that the dog’s Rabies vaccination has sufficiently taken. The vet will take a blood sample and send this off to South Africa for analysis.
Pay for the blood test:
The testing lab in South Africa will send you an email to say that they have received the blood sample. They should give you a reference number. When you receive this you must pay the lab in South Africa the required fees via bank transfer. Do not lose this reference number.
Rabies serum neutralising antibody test report – your dog will not be able to travel without this certificate. Carry it with you.
Rabies serum neutralising antibody test report – your dog will not be able to travel without this certificate. Carry it with you.
Your dog will not be able to travel without this certificate. Carry it with you in hand luggage during the flight.
Prepare for the flight:
If you are flying with your dog there are certain things you will need, or I would recommend (especially if you are going to take the route to the UK I took, which involved a ferry transfer:
An IATA approved pet carrier. (This is essential. You won’t be allowed to travel without it).
Two water bowls that attach to the door of the carrier (Essential. You won’t be allowed to travel without these) .
A blanket that the dog is familiar with (to reassure your dog when it is in the carrier).
Special fleece travel blanket. (If the dog goes to the toilet in the carrier, the urine seeps through to the bottom but the top stays dry so the dog is not sitting in urine during the flight).
Dog treats.
Muzzle (The flight may cause even friendly dogs to be in a bad mood).
A short lead / and or a lead that attaches to your waist (really handy in Amsterdam airport!)
Harness (Prince is huge – this helped me keep control of him in the airport).
Ice cubes for drinking water. (Put them in a bowl at Entebbe airport. They are less likely to spill than water).
Marker pen. (I wrote my contacts direct onto the carrier).
Doggy bags.
A bottle of water.
Plastic ties (in case of lost screws on the carrier).
Taking a dog from Uganda to UK. How to measure your dog for a pet carrier. Courtesy of http://www.animalinstinct.co.uk
Taking a dog from Uganda to UK. How to measure your dog for a pet carrier. Courtesy of http://www.animalinstinct.co.uk
Getting the right dog carrier was probably the hardest task for me, especially as Prince is a giant sized dog. Some of the vets in Uganda occasionally import carriers but the giant sized ones are hard to find. Allow plenty of time for this. Incoming shipments aren’t regular and the carriers are taken fast. I have heard Belgium Airways sometimes sells them.
I imported a secondhand dog carrier from the UK because I couldn’t guarantee finding one in Uganda in time. I paid £100 for it plus delivery to Uganda.
There are not many companies who will allow individuals to ship personal goods by air freight. I could not find anyone at Heathrow that would charge a reasonable amount. In the end I used a company based at Birmingham International airport called Aramex (UK) International Courier Lt, tel +44 121 782 2882.
The carrier flew on Emirates. I took the carrier unwrapped to the cargo shipping office so they could check what I was sending. I filled out forms at the first office, then paid at Aramex’s office. It is possible to send from the first office but that would have cost me nearly £400. By using Aramex, I only paid £180.
You need to keep and have the airway bill to collect the carrier. In Entebbe, it took nine hours to collect the carrier due to paperwork and checks. You have to pay an agent to help you. This should cost about 250,000 ugx. (Note: some agents tried to charge me three times this amount).
I mistakenly decided to wait for the cargo myself. I had no idea it would take nine hours and kept being told it was nearly done. Instead I would suggest you just pay extra for an agent to clear the goods and deliver it to you. I would recommend using this agent Deo: 077262770. He has a van which helps if delivering giant size dog carriers.
Book (yours and) your dog’s flights:
From what I understand, British Airways can take you and your dog direct to the UK, but your dog must fly as cargo as the UK has an embargo on dogs from Africa. I was told that BA would cost nearly £2000. Also, if Prince flew as cargo, I would have to pay an agent to receive him on the UK side. Not sure how true this is as different people have told me different things, but it was clear that BA would be a more expensive option so I decided not to take this route.
Instead I chose to fly Prince with KLM, one of the few companies that still allow your dog to travel as baggage. However, because of the embargo, they will only fly your dog as far as Amsterdam.
KLM charged me $200 to take Prince as baggage, although at the airport the check-in staff tried to charge me $400. I refused and only paid $200.
The KLM office in Kampala will help you book your dog on a flight and send you a confirmation email.Note: arrange this early as there is a limit on how many animals can travel on one flight.
Get your dog’s export papers and third country vet certificate:
Once you have confirmed your dog’s place on the flight and about three weeks before you fly (after you have received the Rabies certificate) return to the vet and ask them to arrange export papers.
You should receive an EU third country vet certificate and a Ugandan inter-state movement permit.
Last check-up at the vet:
A day or two before you fly, your dog must have a last minute check-up and deworming and flea treatment. The vet will write you a health exam certificate.
Taking your dog to the UK from Uganda. Dog health exam certificate, Uganda
Taking your dog to the UK from Uganda. Dog health exam certificate, Uganda
NOTE: I was forced to stay an extra day in Amsterdam because the vet did not add the last check details to the third party certificate. There is a box for worming etc – shown in pink, above . This must be completed with the date, time AND vet’s stamp!
IMPORTANT: Do not put any marks or notes on the document yourself. I did, and nearly was not let into the UK because of it.
I was worried about how I would get the huge carrier and Prince to check-in. (Yes, you actually have to go to the check-in desk!)
I spoke to the security man nicely and they allowed me to drive right up to the departures door (usually you have to park and walk up stairs). When I arrived, I had Prince on the lead and the carrier was collapsed down. An assistant came to help me. (I ended up paying him 10,000 ugx on the condition that he stayed with me until after the dog was checked in).
I walked through with Prince and the assistant helped me to pass the carrier and luggage through the scanner.
Because of the dog, I was allowed in slightly earlier than the other customers (about 2 ½ hours before the flight). I went to the check-in desk and handed over my and my dog’s papers. They brought photocopies and stickers for the carrier.
Prince in his dog carrier at Entebbe Airport, Uganda
Prince in dog carrier at Entebbe Airport, Uganda
Prince had to be put inside the carrier and weighed (the assistant helped me to do this!) It was only at this point that I constructed the carrier.
Once my dog was weighed, the assistant left me. I made sure Prince had water, treats, blanket and toys. I stayed at check-in with him for about 45 minutes, until ground crew came to collect him.
Note: feed your dog on the morning of the flight only. It’s not nice for the dog if he has to go to the loo in the carrier. I made sure my dog was fed as soon as he got off the plane.
Reuniting with your dog in Amsterdam:
The dog will be brought straight to the baggage area after your flight. Prince was there waiting for me with a member of ground crew as soon as I arrived. There were no further checks or anything to declare.
Once we arrived in Amsterdam, there were no more checks. I just walked my dog out of the airport
How to get from Amsterdam airport to the ferry in the Hook of Holland:
I was not lucky enough to have someone meet me with a car at Amsterdam. I thought I would have to leave the carrier at the airport. (It’s about 1m high and 1.2 m long so I couldn’t manage the carrier, my luggage and Prince). It would have cost me more to ship it home than to buy another one new.
I thought about donating it. The Dutch Society for the Protection of Animals was willing to come and collect it. You can email them to discuss it. In the end, a good Samaritan saw me struggling and actually offered to help me send it home for free, but you can’t rely on that happening. I was just lucky.
After collecting my luggage, I left the airport, gave Prince food and we had a bit of a walk about. I then purchased tickets for the train to the Hook of Holland so we could catch the ferry to the UK.
It was quite tricky getting Prince and luggage on the train. I had everything in a backpack and the short leash and harness helped a lot. Lots of kind people helped me.
Addy with Prince on station platform
You have to change trains once but we just walked to an opposite platform so it wasn’t too hard. Prince seemed bewildered but everything went ok.
I think technically dogs are meant to wear a muzzle on the train in the Netherlands; this is why you need one. Mine didn’t wear a muzzle though and no one complained.
Note: there are two Hook of Holland stops – depart at the first one.
Getting onto the ferry for the UK:
I had booked my tickets in advance with Stena Line who allow dogs on with walk on passengers as they have kennels on-board. You must book in advance but I suggest you pay the extra and book flexible tickets.
I had trouble with my paperwork as the time and date of worming were not stamped on the third party certificate. At this point I nearly cried! However the Stena staff were used to this happening (although maybe not for dogs from Uganda). They directed me to a dog-friendly hotel and booked us a vet, so it was lucky I had booked flexible tickets.
The hotel has a special dog friendly room, which cost 75 Euros, with a garden. Prince loved it and it’s just a few minutes walk from the train station and Stena office. The vet is just a few doors down from the hotel. Although I didn’t plan a stopover I would strongly suggest one. In hindsight it was a good thing that Prince and I were delayed as it gave us time to take a breather. Hook of Holland is a lovely place and there are nice walks for you and your dog along the beach and in the woods.
Prince checks out the ferry. How to take your dog to the UK from Uganda – a guide based on personal experience
On the ferry – and home!
Once you have checked-in, go to a supervisor who will scan your dog’s microchip and check your papers. If all is ok, you are given a green pass and can walk your dog onto the ferry.
On the ferry, go to the service desk who will give you a passcode for the kennels and escort you there. The kennels are nice and, unlike the plane, you can visit your dog during the journey. The ferry is great and has cinema, restaurants etc.
When we docked in the UK, we just walked off the ferry. No more checks were needed (although apparently sometimes they do have an extra check upon arrival).
I had a friend pick me up from the ferry terminal and we were home!!!!
Addy writes:
Prince is loving the UK and I’m loving having him here. He’s such a kind and loving pet, I actually think to some extent he knows how lucky he’s been. Plus he’s a celebrity in the local park as he looks like no other local dog and has a cool story. Bringing my dog home to the UK from Uganda was hard work but 100% worth it.
The Muzungu says:
Are you thinking of taking your dog to the UK or overseas? If you’ve been through this process, do you have any comments to add?
Driving in Kampala? Then you’ll need to read this first!
Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Mark Penhallow. Mark has been working in the roads sector in Uganda since 2001 and has recently returned to the UK after 2 years based in Kampala. Mark writes:
Ugandans are generally friendly, intelligent and considerate people, but they should never, ever be allowed anywhere close to a steering wheel (or a microphone for that matter) when, for some inexplicable reason, these admirable characteristics (plus any sense of self-preservation) seem to abandon them entirely!
If you plan to drive in or through Kampala (which is unavoidable when you visit Uganda), it’s imperative to remember that it’s a war out there and to be prepared for battle!
Some rules of engagement do exist (such as driving on the left), but these appear to be advisory only and are frequently ignored. Consequently, there is no point of waving a “Highway Code” at anyone or claiming any self-righteousness, such as “but it’s my right of way!” or “I got here first” as this merely produces looks of utter perplexion and shrugged shoulders.
One of the slower moving obstacles to avoid while driving in Kampala
How to prepare your vehicle for battle
The bigger the vehicle, the better. “BIG IS BIG” as a windscreen sticker in one of the city’s matatu (taxis) says.
The presence of “bull bars” on the front of your vehicle helps intimidate other road users; show them you mean business! Loud horns are important, together with full-beam lights for after dark.
The presence of other miscellaneous items such as indicators, tyre treads, brakes and windscreen wipers is usually an indication that the vehicle belongs to an affluent foreigner or even richer NGO.
If your vehicle does have such ancillary items, use these to fool other road users:
Flash your lights means “go ahead” or equally the opposite “I’m coming through.”
A right hand indicator means either “I’m pulling off to the left, so you can overtake me” or occasionally, “I’m going to turn right.”
You will notice that, yes, one meaning completely contradicts the other and could easily result in a collision – welcome to Kampala!
Now you’re prepared for battle, let me introduce you to some of your fellow road users:
Pedestrians
Pedestrians are an occupational hazard of driving in Kampala, but can usually be safely ignored by drivers. Unfortunately, instead of remaining in the narrow areas of mud or dust that line Kampala’s roadsides, they have an inconsiderate tendency to walk in the roadway instead, often getting in the way of vehicles. A sharp blast from the car horn is usually sufficient to scatter them out of your way.
Should you happen to hit one of these individuals, it’s unlikely anyone will care, as they tend to be poor and, as would appear from the state of the facilities provided for them throughout the city, the authorities clearly do not think these people are important anyway. Anyone important or rich has a car of course, so it is their needs which the authorities aim to satisfy above anyone else’s.
A note of caution! Beware of pedestrians in white uniforms, especially if they start waving little red objects at you, as they are particularly keen to greet foreigners.
Fortunately, these people are often quite fat (especially the successful ones), so are relatively easy to spot from afar. Their waving usually indicates that they are feeling hungry and want you to stop, so that they can tell you of some spectacularly imaginative reason why you should pay for their lunch. Consequently, they tend to be especially busy in the mornings, and less so after lunch. Their levels of activity also rise in the run-up to Christmas and when school fees are due.
How to deal with pedestrians in white uniforms (sometimes referred to as ‘traffic policemen’):
1. Look away and pretend you haven’t seen them: eye contact is especially foolhardy.
2. Having red number plates (denoting you work for a NGO) can be partially effective. The best avoidance tactic is to own a pair of blue (diplomatic) plates, which as you will inevitably see, allows you to do whatever you want, without having to worry about anyone else.
3. Adding a little flag to the front of your vehicle can help too (and is certainly good for your ego).
4. If you are feeling especially insecure, insignificant and unimportant, why not hire a truck full of uniformed men to escort you to the shops and restaurants around town? Make sure that your escort vehicle has a wide range of different tunes to blast through its sirens, as you speed through the traffic of Kampala. This adds variety to your trip and startles other drivers, which is always fun.
Cyclists are also a nuisance but, being relatively small and slow moving, they can usually be forced out of your way, as you make you way through the city in air conditioned comfort. There are a lot of cyclists but, like pedestrians, they are neither important nor rich, so their needs can safely be ignored.
Away from the city centre, boda bodas can be a lot of fun
Boda boda (motorbike taxis)
Boda bodas, upon which entire extended families travel together (plus furniture, animals and household goods), are more of a problem, as they multiply and spread like bacteria across Kampala’s urban sprawl. They comply with no rules or regulations. In fact, it is only their evident desire to perish as quickly as possible that has any impact on controlling their numbers.
Room for one more? Baboon on a boda boda
If you are ever tempted to make use of their pillion passenger services, then ensure that you have bade fond farewell to the family first, finalised your Will and paid for the best quality medical services that any insurance policy can buy.
Finally, a special mention must be made of the Matatus, the majority of vehicles in the city’s congested streets. These too are a law unto themselves, overloaded with passengers (human, chicken or goat), plus suitcases, hooks of matoke, sacks of farm produce and a myriad of other items indispensable to African life. It is of course far more important to load the vehicle’s roof and boot with mattresses and rain barrels than it is to be able to see the road, as Matatus claim absolute right to do any manoeuvre at any time.
A large, 4 wheel drive vehicle (as recommended above) may help to moderate the matatus’ bullying tactics, but their insatiable enthusiasm to get to the next stop before anyone else knows no bounds. If this requires driving on footpaths, verges or the wrong side of the road, then woe betide anyone who gets in their way.
So, enjoy your trip across Kampala. It will certainly be an adventure!
The Muzungu: thanks Mark for a hilarious view of driving in Kampala! Mark enjoys creative writing and is also an expert public speaker.
Do you have a story or some advice you’d like to share? Please read my Guests Posts page for guidelines on the kinds of stories I feature on Diary of a Muzungu.
If you live in Kampala, what are your driving tips?
