The Doctor and the spy gorilla!
BBC’s “Spy in the Wild” series meets Uganda’s Mountain Gorillas. Diary of a Muzungu interviews Uganda’s premier vet Dr Gladys about the making of the documentary.
I recently received a wonderful press article from my correspondent in the UK – a.k.a. my dad! – who is always on the look-out for stories about Uganda and East Africa in the British press.
The Times article “Spy ape isn’t rumbled in the jungle” is all about an animatronic gorilla who has been hanging out in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest with Uganda’s mountain gorillas.
I’m lucky enough to have encountered a few mountain gorillas in the wild – but this footage is in a league of its own. Watch it now!
I wanted to know more about this thrilling project here in Uganda and contacted Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, founder and Chief Executive Officer of Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH). Dr Gladys has become “one of the world’s leading conservationists and scientists working to save the critically endangered mountain gorillas of East Africa.”
The Muzungu: Which mountain gorilla family did the animatronic gorilla meet?
Dr Gladys: The Rushegura gorilla group is the family that is shown looking into the spy camera. However, they filmed other gorilla groups as well.
The Muzungu: In what way were you personally involved?
Dr Gladys: I was the lead scientist they consulted when filming “Spy Gorilla.” I accompanied the crew filming the mountain gorillas together with our team from Conservation Through Public Health, after obtaining permission from the Uganda Wildlife Authority, who also joined in the filming.
The Muzungu: How did you hear about this project?
Dr Gladys: Matt Gordon from John Downer Productions contacted me after getting a referral from a fellow National Geographic Explorer called Dr. Jill Pruetz. She was the lead scientist JDP consulted as she had hosted them when they filmed “Spy Chimpanzee” in the first series of “Spy in the Wild” at her study site in Senegal where Savannah Chimpanzees are found.
The Muzungu: What do you hope to learn from this project?
Dr Gladys: I hoped to add to my knowledge about gorilla behaviour because the spy cameras are able to non-intrusively capture close-up images of gorillas without having to get close to them. The spy cameras can record never before seen behaviour that will help us to protect mountain gorillas better and ultimately inspire viewers to conserve them.
The Muzungu: How many hours of filming took place for the film crew to get the one-hour show about Bwindi’s gorillas?
Dr Gladys: It took them ten days to film the documentary.
The Muzungu: Are there any plans for this kind of project to be repeated in Bwindi?
Dr Gladys: Most likely not, because the film crew got a lot of information and it took a lot of time, money and resources to capture this rare footage
The Muzungu: What is your feeling about the gorillas’ reaction to the animatronic gorilla?
Dr Gladys: We were first a bit apprehensive about how the gorillas would react. I also made sure that the spy gorilla was disinfected adequately to prevent any potential disease transmission. With the UWA and CTPH team, we were pleased to see that the gorillas were curious about the animatronic gorilla that looked like them, and the infants tried to play with it. It was fascinating to see that the gorillas were intelligent enough to discover that though the spy gorilla looked like them, it was not a real gorilla, but were still protective over it. The Spy Gorilla camera brought out their personalities as curious and accommodating gentle giants.
About the BBC’s “Spy in the Wild” series
“Spy in the Wild is back in one of the most innovative natural history series ever presented. This time it deploys over 50 ultra-realistic animatronic Spy Creatures to go undercover across every region of the world. The 4 x 60 minute BBC One series captures some of the most extraordinary animal behaviour ever seen, filmed from inside the animal world.
Using special state-of-the-art 4k resolution “Spy Creatures” the viewer is plunged into the very heart of the extraordinary lives of over 40 remarkable animals. They reveal previously unseen behaviour as animals gather, feed, fight and breed in among some of the greatest wildlife gatherings ever witnessed. This team of hyper-real Spy Creatures not only look like the animals they film, they behave like them too. Accepted by the families, these robotic look-alikes can not only film from an intimate perspective they also interact with the animals and so gain revelatory insights into their worlds.” Learn more about the Spy in the Wild series.
A big thank you to Dr Gladys for sharing her story with Diary of a Muzungu and to Papa Nagawa for being my eyes and ears on the ground in the UK.
… And before you go, check out this adorable face again! 🙂
Celebrating gorillas at “the best Kwita Izina ever!”
Kwita Izina – Rwanda’s gorilla naming ceremony
Gorilla tracking is said to be a “once in a lifetime” experience yet I love this primate encounter more each time 💗
Last week’s mountain gorilla tracking was even more exhilarating than the last time – but I’ll leave that story for another day. For now, imagine the calm here in Volcanoes National Park as a ranger guide watches a Blackback* male mountain gorilla …
*A Blackback will one day mature to be a Silverback gorilla.
I have huge respect for the rangers, guides and researchers on the ground who protect these beguiling creatures (and the porters clad in overalls and gum boots who effortlessly help us track).
What is Kwita Izina?
During the first week of September every year, celebrities from around the world touch down in Kinigi, Volcanoes National Park, to name the baby gorillas born in the last year in Rwanda. There is nothing like this anywhere else.
From early morning, thousands of young Rwandese throng to the event site. They wait excitedly for their favourite musicians to perform for them live, free of charge. It’s said 60,000 people attended Kwita Izina 2018!
The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is an opportunity to publicly thank the conservationists closest to protecting these great apes. It’s also a global showcase for the country’s tourism industry. Gorilla namers include Rwandan and international conservationists, sports personalities, renown philanthropists and diplomats. Read my blog from a previous Kwita Izina, in which I explain the derivation of the term and the history of its creation.
According to East African tourism expert Carmen Nibigira, this year’s event was “the best event ever!”
Why is Kwita Izina such an important event for Rwanda and Africa?
Thanks to conservation initiatives like Kwita Izina, the Mountain Gorilla population in the Virunga Massif has increased from 480 in 2010 to to 604 in 2016 (results of last census). The Virunga Massif covers Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park in Uganda, and the Mikeno Sector of Virunga National Park in the Democratic Republic of Congo (DRC). In 1981, Mountain Gorilla numbers had dropped to just 242 individuals, according to the Rwanda Development Board. (Results of the latest gorilla census are expected to show a further increase in gorilla numbers. However the species is still classed as Endangered on the IUCN Red List).
Now in its 14th year, Kwita Izina has gone from being a one day gorilla naming event to a whole week of conservation and tourism related events. Tourism can be a powerful tool for lifting people out of poverty and Rwanda is pushing it at every level. One of the week’s events is the two-day Conversation on Conservation (CoC) forum in Kigali which takes a strategic look at conservation in the country.
What were the highlights of Kwita Izina 2018?
My 11 hour bus journey from Kampala to Kigali was worth every minute. Here are a few of the amazing people I met in Rwanda.
Prosper was very helpful when I was researching and writing the ecotourism guide“Walking with the Gorillas” published by Horizon Guides.
Did you know … trackers are now given beautiful presentation boxes of tea or coffee – Rwandese of course! (These replace the certificates we used to be given). Gorilla tracking in Rwanda now costs a whopping $1500 per permit as Rwanda pitches the country as a high-end tourism destination.
Susan and I watched three lions in Akagera National Park, ate Sambaza fish on Lake Kivu, survived the jaw-dropping canopy walkway in Nyungwe Forest, and enjoyed a thrilling gorilla tracking experience with the Titus gorilla family.
Anyone can get a flavour of Kwita Izina by visiting Vecotourism.org – one click and you are virtually there!
Here’s a full list of 2018’s gorilla namers. Information courtesy of RDB.
- – His Highness Sheikh Dr. Abdulaziz Ali Bin Rashid Al Nuami, the ‘Green Sheikh’, has dedicated his life to traveling and environmental stewardship.
- – Dr. Noeline Raondry Rakotoarisa is the Program Chief of Capacity Building and Partnerships Section for UNESCO/MAB (Man and Biosphere).
- – Madame Graca Machel is the former First Lady of South Africa and Mozambique. She is an international advocate for women’s and children’s rights.
- – Aliaume Damala Badara Akon Thiam is an American singer, songwriter, businessman, record producer and actor of Senegalese descent.
- – Samba Bathily is a Malian philanthropist, He is CEO of Solektra International and co-founder of Akon Lighting Africa with Akon and Thione Niang.
- – Alexandra Virina Scott is a retired English footballer who played as a right-back for Arsenal Women. She made 140 appearances for the English national team and represented Great Britain at the 2012 London Olympics.
– Laureano Bisan Etamé-Mayer, commonly known as Lauren, is a retired Cameroonian footballer, who played for the Cameroonian national team and Arsenal FC.
I always come away from Kwita Izina inspired. Rwanda tourism knows no bounds.
A big shout-out to every one at Rwanda Development Board for attending to every little detail of our superb tour of what some call the ‘Singapore of Africa.’
A special thank you to everyone at Serena Hotels who hosted us at the Kigali Serena Hotel and Lake Kivu Serena. The fabulous facilities were a real treat.
#VisitRwanda
Have you tracked the mountain gorillas? Have you attended Kwita Izina? What were your impressions?
From Silverbacks to Silverchefs!
How far will you go for good food?
From Silverback Mountain Gorillas to Silverchefs – how food is helping put the Gorilla Highlands of southwestern Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC on the tourist map.
“You came all this way just to attend a cooking competition?”
After a month of living in the village on posho (maize porridge) and beans, little persuasion was needed to travel a day and a half to taste the creations of sixteen chefs and to enjoy the Kigali Marriott Hotel’s phenomenal breakfast!
How could I resist the lure of food (that I didn’t have to prepare), a stay in a top international hotel, the chance to learn more about hospitality (my first jobs were in hotels) and to network with tourism colleagues and media from across East Africa?
Most importantly though, I was delighted to be invited to support the work of Gorilla Highlands (the brains behind the Silverchef Competition), creating positive stories about this ridiculously beautiful corner of the world.
And so it was that I found myself traveling from my current home near Fort Portal to Kigali: by boda boda, matatu taxi, bus, private hire car, another matatu, bus (Jaguar Executive Coaches, comme d’habitude) and finally a moto (the Rwandese word for motorbike or boda boda) from Nyabugogo bus park in downtown Kigali.
What is the Silverchef Competition?
“In a spirit of friendly co-operation” sixteen chefs representing sixteen establishments from Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo congregated at the Kigali Marriott Hotel for Gorilla Highlands’ Silverchef Competition 2018.
Two shifts of eight chefs took over the four kitchens of the Marriott Hotel to prepare their dishes. Behind the scenes, the judges watched the chefs’ preparations. Each chef had the same ingredients (points were deducted for anyone who did not stick closely to the rules!) Chefs were judged not only for the taste of their food but the chefs’ presentation skills, their creativity and their time management skills.
Talking about the competition, Miha Logar of Gorilla Highlands said “It’s good for chefs to get away from their own environment once in a while. They often lead a demanding lifestyle, far away from their family. We believe that events like this build a chef’s self-confidence. Having the chance to travel is a bit of an adventure, whether visiting a new country or a different part of their own country.”
Not only was 2018 memorable for being Silverchef’s inaugural event in Rwanda, the Democratic Republic of Congo also joined the competition for the very first time. (Guess which lucky travel blogger has an invitation to Goma?)
“It’s been a big decision to work in the DRC and I’d like to thank all the stakeholders in the region who have given their input, suggestions and thoughts on this subject.” Will next year’s Silverchef find us in the DRC? We wait and see.
Previous editions of Silverchef have been held in Uganda: in Kisoro, Kabale and Lake Bunyonyi.
What is travel without good food?
Although at first glance the point of the Silverchef Competition is to win the prized silver chef’s hat, the event is part of a bigger strategic initiative. At the heart of the Gorilla Highlands’ philosophy is the belief that tourism can be a major tool for development. Tourism creates much-needed jobs and opportunities to train. With little local industry or manufacturing, tourism is the best bet for bringing revenue. Financial investment is important, but training, opportunity, innovation and self-confidence are also crucial.
Chefs bring their supporters and managers to Silverchef. Some hotel managers travel to the event looking for new staff. For lodge staff, tour operators and the wider tourism industry, the weekend of the annual Gorilla Highlands Silverchef Competition is a chance to interact, network and learn – about cooking, regional tourism and hospitality, and what tourism in the region needs to develop and flourish.
This year’s Silverchef judges were (from left): last year’s Silverchef winner Allan Mukasa, Sylvia Kalembe of Uganda Tourism Board, Chief Judge Professor Wolfgang Thome, Yves K. Ngenzi of Rwanda Development Board and Andre Ngoja-Ngoja from HORECA the Association for Hoteliers, Restaurants and Cafes in North Lake Kivu, DRC. The incomparable compere was Nash Barrett, Co-Founder SafeMotos.
What is Gorilla Highlands?
Many tourists come to this area of East Africa because of the gorillas, but there is so much more to explore in the region: hiking volcanoes, staying the night in a community homestay, experiencing one of the region’s cultures and eating good food of course!
So who were the winners of Gorilla Highlands’ Silverchef 2018?
According to Miha, “in our book, all the competing chefs are winners. They’ve committed to taking part in the competition and we are grateful for that.” That said, here’s the list of Quality Cooking Certificate winners:
- Chef “Rama” Ramadhan Sindayigaya, Marriott, Kigali (Rwanda) – Gorilla Highlands Silverchef 2018 and best Rwandese chef.
- Mukungu Akimu, Grand Legacy Hotel, Jinja (Uganda) – best Ugandan chef
- Manishimwe Jean Bosco, Lake Kivu Serena Hotel, Gisenyi (Rwanda)
- Musasa Marcellin Tshite, Virunga Lodge, Volcanoes National Park (Rwanda)
- Odeke Silver, Cephas Inn, Kabale (Uganda)
- Jean Bosco Birindwa, Ihusi Hotel, Goma (DR Congo) – best Congolese chef
- Otim Amos, Protea Hotel, Kampala (Uganda)
- Emmanuel Murwanashyaka, ParkInn by Radisson, Kigali (Rwanda)
- Sam Mbabazi, Bunyonyi Overland Resort, Kabale (Uganda)
- Paul Mulyampiti, BirdNest Resort – Lake Bunyonyi (Uganda)
The best Rwandan chef also received a prize from Rwanda Development Board: a trip to Volcanoes National Park to track the gorillas! The winning chef from Uganda won a trip to track the gorillas in Uganda, courtesy of the Uganda Tourism Board and Uganda Wildlife Authority.
Visit the Gorilla Highlands web site to learn more about travel in southwestern Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo.
Scrabble and a roaring fire: recipe for a cosy weekend at The Peak Spot Lodge, Rwanda
A weekend by an open fireplace at The Peak Spot Lodge “Jewel of the Virunga” a few minutes’ drive from the start of Rwanda’s Mountain Gorilla tracking
TIP: get up early to view the morning mist swirling around the volcanoes in the distance!
I recently spent two nights at The Peak Spot Lodge near Kinigi while researching an ecotourism guide to gorilla tracking. The Peak Spot is a cosy independently-owned lodge ideally located for travellers going gorilla tracking in Rwanda. It’s also a lovely place to just chill out.
This lodge is slightly off the beaten track, but absolutely worth it! You will not hear a vehicle the whole time you’re there.
The last few kilometres to The Peak Spot Lodge are on dirt roads, where progress is slow enough to smile and wave back at the villagers shouting “hello friend”
An invigorating start to the day: sunshine, fresh air and the smell of Eucalyptus
Every morning I travelled by moto (boda boda) motorbike taxi from The Peak Spot to the start of the gorilla tracking at the Volcanoes National Park headquarters in Kinigi. Here I mingled with tourists, watched the excellent Intore traditional dancers and interviewed some of the rangers who monitor, track, protect – and love – Rwanda’s mountain gorillas.
The drive by motorbike from The Peak Spot to Kinigi took 25 exhilarating minutes door-to-door. I was filming much of the way, enjoying incredible scenery and views of traditional village life. Most of the drive is on an excellent tarmac road that winds along to Kinigi itself.
It can be rather chilly in the mountains (especially for those of us who are used to the year-round warmth of Kampala!) but the lodge staff lit an open fire for us every time we sat down to eat or drink. The all-rounder staff member Alexis always knew when to put another log on the fire or come and refill our drinks. (It’s hard work playing Scrabble and listening to rock music you know!) He was also there to fill up our hot water bottles and tuck them under the bed covers for us. (Each bedroom also has a heater and a hot shower of course).
The lure of an open fire
“I hate Scrabble” I moaned until my competitive streak kicked in! A whole weekend marathon of Scrabble followed
Dinner was a simple but filling three-course meal of soup, main course and dessert. The Peak Spot has a well-stocked bar. We felt right at home when we noticed the bar stocked our favourite tipples (Uganda Waragi and Bond 7 respectively) but don’t forget to try a local beer too! Mutzig goes down a treat.
A close encounter with a member of Rwanda’s Susa family. Click on the image to link through to my “Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla tracking”
Everyone who goes gorilla tracking in Rwanda goes home with a certificate. Bragging rights, yay! My hour with the Susa gorilla family was action-packed
Between daydreams of gorillas and chatting around the fireplace at The Peak Spot, we ran out of time to taste banana wine or go on the community walk to the neighbouring village. I did enjoy walking around the lodge gardens however. The recycled Heineken beer bottle borders to the paths gave an unusual touch to the garden’s design.
How to travel to The Peak Spot from Kigali
I’ve been lucky enough to stay in a wide variety of lodges across East Africa. “Planes, trains and automobiles,” I’ve done the lot. On this occasion, we travelled by public transport between Kampala and Kinigi, and it could not have been easier.
Leaving The Peak Spot, we rode motos directly to Musanze (for 2,000 Rwandese francs) to catch a coaster to Kigali (for 1,750 Rwandese francs). From Nyabugogo bus park in central Kigali, we jumped on the Jaguar overnight coach back to the Pearl of Africa.
The Peak Spot “Jewel of the Virunga” is a great base for gorilla tracking, hiking and more
The Peak Spot opened two years ago and currently has one family cottage and three rooms, from $75/night. Two more cottages are being built. This rate includes breakfast lunch and dinner and a sauna. Tents are also available for $20 per person per night (to sleep two or four people).
The lodge has Wi-Fi and a small shop that sells some very cool T-shirts. The lodge even has a sauna! (I will have to come back to try that out). There are also plans to hire a masseur.
Thanks very much to Habib, Alexis, Benon (and all the behind-the-scenes staff that I did not meet). They gave lots of useful advice on the costs of public transport, the weather, what to wear, where to change money, called motos every time we needed one, and more. If you’re looking for an authentic Rwandese experience, at an affordable rate, look no further.
You can contact The Peak Spot via their web site or call +250 788441652. Please say the muzungu sent you 😉
Are you interested in tracking the gorillas in Rwanda? Then get in touch with the muzungu for more travel ideas and gorilla tracking tips.
Travel options for seeing the mountain gorillas
Can I fly to see the Mountain Gorillas? How long is the journey by road from Kampala or Kigali to the gorillas’ habitat?
The main roads leading to Uganda and Rwandas’ gorilla tracking areas are generally good but travel is much slower than on European or American roads, for example. Secondary roads are often slow and bumpy, especially approaching Uganda’s gorilla parks. Be prepared for long car journeys often taking most of the day. Four-wheel drive vehicles are required for certain routes in the rainy season. I’ve travelled to these areas by every possible means – private car, coach, public transport, boda boda and plane. However you travel, enjoy the journey! The scenery is fabulous.
Have you read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking?
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – home to the world’s biggest population of mountain gorillas – is 8+ hours’ drive from Kampala or Entebbe. If you’ve never visited this part of the world at all, the drive is a fantastic opportunity to view African life in the trading centres you pass through. En route through the gloriously green Pearl of Africa you will cross the Equator (and the obligatory stop for photos!)
If you have time to spare, you can easily make a detour for a safari in Lake Mburo National Park or Queen Elizabeth National Park.
If you prefer to fly, buy a round trip air ticket from Entebbe to the Bwindi area (at a cost of $350 – $450). This one and a half hour flight in a small aircraft is out of this world! You pass over the islands on Lake Victoria, swampy marshlands, trading centres and the mist covered valleys of south-western Uganda. Seeing the cloud covered peaks of the volcanoes approaching the distance is an unforgettable sight. The transfer from the airstrips of Kisoro or Kihihi is approximately 30 minutes to one hour, depending where you are tracking the gorillas.
If you’re pushed for time, or you don’t fancy a long road drive, a flight to Kigali and a short drive is the easiest option. The drive to Ruhengeri (Virunga) Volcanoes National Park, home of Rwanda’s gorillas, takes just two hours from Rwanda’s capital city Kigali on very good roads. En route you will quickly understand why it is called ‘the Land of 1000 Hills’!
It is also possible to fly to Kigali then drive across the border to see Uganda’s gorillas. Both options take considerably less time than driving from Kampala.
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park – a gem in an unspoiled corner of Uganda
Approaching Mgahinga and the Virunga volcanoes from Kisoro. From left are: Mount Muhuvura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabinyo
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is Uganda’s smallest National Park, measuring 33.7 km². In a beautiful country of great geographical diversity, this is nonetheless one of the most scenic, unspoiled spots. No-one can fail to be taken in by the majesty of the Virunga volcanoes.
Just over half of the world’s estimated 1000 mountain gorillas are located in Uganda’s far south-west corner (2019 figures). The majority of these are in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to the north of Mgahinga. The first mountain gorilla was sighted by Captain Oscar von Beringe in 1902 in what is now known as Mgahinga Gorilla National Park.
Since Mgahinga borders Rwanda and the DR Congo, the “gorillas without borders” wander freely between the three countries. One particularly engaging habituated gorilla family is resident in Mgahinga. TIP: if you want a more personal encounter with the gorillas, go to Mgahinga. You are unlikely to have many other trackers in your party.
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is part of the much larger transboundary Virunga Conservation Area and borders national parks in Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. The park contains the northern slopes of three volcanoes: Mount Sabinyo (3,634m), Mount Gahinga (3,474m) and Mount Muhuvura (4,127m). Mgahinga is one of the best places in Uganda for hiking and walking.
Three Golden Monkeys in the bamboo forest of Mgahinga Uganda
The volcanoes’ slopes are home to around 75 mammal species, including buffalo, forest elephants and leopard. (The muzungu even saw a wild tortoise on one trip to Mgahinga!) It is one of the few locations in Uganda where you can trek to see the charming Golden Monkeys. It’s a lovely (and underrated) wildlife experience. Birdwatching, especially in Sabinyo Gorge, is highly recommended.
The Batwa Experience – developed and run by Volcanoes Safaris Trust at Mount Gahinga Lodge – gives an insight into traditional forest life
Mgahinga is home to the Batwa Heritage Trail and a number of other small but excellent community tourism initiatives. Mount Gahinga Lodge is the muzungu’s highly recommended base for all activities in Mgahinga. It is out of this world!
The hilly, often wet, marram road leading to Mgahinga can be tricky, but the ride is well worth it.
Did you know… ? A gahinga is a piece of molten lava that has hardened. Gahinga are scattered for many miles and are evidence of volcanic eruptions thousands of years ago. Clearing fields of gahinga is a laborious process; the resulting pile of rocks is fashioned into walls and buildings.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park – no. 1 for mountain gorilla trekking, no. 1 in Africa for birding too!
We pay a lot of lip service to ‘protecting the rainforest’ and here it is: a magical, mystical misty place. The first time I visited Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, I felt a strong emotional pull. My first sight of Bwindi’s rainforest made me want to cry.
View of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest as we ascended from Ivy River up to Nkuringo. Click on the image to read my blog about crossing the forest from Buhoma to Nkuringo – it was an amazing experience!
The forest’s wildlife also includes chimpanzees, forest elephants, duikers, Red-tailed monkeys and hundreds of mammals. Forest butterflies are particularly beautiful.
Enkima – my totem the Red tailed monkey – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Click on the image to read my blog “Eye to eye with my totem”
The African Bird Club has ranked Bwindi Impenetrable Forest the number one site for birding in Africa.
According to Keith Betton, Chairman of the African Bird Club:“No fewer than 23 of Uganda’s 24 Albertine Rift endemic species are found here including globally threatened species such as African Green Broadbill Pseudocalyptomena graueri and Shelley’s Crimsonwing Cryptospiza shelleyi, plus others such as Kivu Ground-Thrush Zoothera (piaggiae) tanganjicae, Oberlaender’s Ground-Thrush Zoothera oberlaenderi, Dwarf Honeyguide Indicator pumilio, Lagden’s Bush-Shrike Malacanotus lagdeni and Chapin’s Flycatcher Muscicapa lendu.”
Welcome to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. Bwindi hiking. Photo David Tumusiime
While you’re in Bwindi, take time to go on a village walk. “The Batwa Experience” gives you an insight into the traditional way of life of the Batwa (‘pygmy’) people who lived in the forest for 60,000 years. The Batwa’s ancient forest lifestyle is unique and the community fragile.
Did you know… the mountain gorilla population once numbered just 254 individuals? Thanks to gorilla tourism, their numbers have stabilised. However, they remain endangered (the official term used by IUCN).
How to hike Bwindi. A jungle adventure with Gorilla Highlands
Have you experienced the real jungle? Bwindi hiking is the real deal
Been walking in the woods? Try walking in the jungle! Hiking Bwindi Impenetrable Forest from North (Buhoma) to South (Nkuringo) – with (I hoped) the slight possibility of glimpsing a Mountain Gorilla en route – is a hike I’ve wanted to do for ages. Are you planning to to gorilla trekking in Uganda? Stay an extra day and do this hike too.
8 hours, 17 km, 3 waterfalls and 16 new friends #Edirisatreks hiking Bwindi
Walking through Bwindi is the real deal.
It’s a world of dense greenery, layer after layer of vegetation, common plants in uncommon sizes, babbling brooks and smooth round boulders to hop across patches of bog; a wonderful series of waterfalls – so much more to see in the forest than I’d even imagined (especially if you have a knowledgeable guide or two). Gorilla trekking is a not-to-be-missed experience, but Bwindi has brilliant hiking adventures too.
I’m now trying to work out which hiking Bwindi trail can the Muzungu do next?…
UWA entrance sign to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda
Every good hike starts with a good breakfast and Buhoma Lodge rise to the challenge: platters of fresh fruit, thin pancakes with honey, cereals, traditional cooked English breakfast, toast and fresh coffee – I enjoy every single one of those guilty carbs in preparation for our day-long walk.
Breakfast spread at Buhoma Lodge, Bwindi, Gorilla Highlands, #Edirisatreks hiking Bwindi
The only problem with Buhoma Lodge in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda is that it is the first place we visit, and nowhere else quite compares to it for the rest of our trip. Leaving Buhoma Lodge feels like leaving home – in fact my return trip is planned before I leave the building. I love the fact that all the staff come out to say goodbye to us, even the masseuse and the chef!
Everywhere we walk, we are accompanied by smiling faces. This Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger has such a lovely smile. He doesn’t say much but he keeps a good eye on us all day.
A smiling UWA ranger, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda
At the entrance to the park, our guide Blasio points to the Nyaga river and the nearby hills of the Congo.
Bwindi is home to seven types of primate. Its most famous primate inhabitants are the mountain gorilla, whose population roam between Uganda, the Congo and Rwanda. Bwindi – and specifically Buhoma, where we start our trek – has the world’s highest concentration of mountain gorillas and is the main centre for gorilla trekking. Bwindi is also home to chimpanzees and Red tailed monkeys [my namesake nkima] are a particular favourite of mine as regular Diary readers may remember from my first trip to Bwindi.
Bwindi is also home to a small (and rarely seen) population of Forest elephants, who are smaller than their more well-known Savannah African elephant relatives.
The Muzungu crosses one of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest’s rivers, on a previous hike, following the Ivy River trail from Nkuringo
Moss-covered bridges constructed of twigs and branches lead us across brooks and streams and into the heart of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
The wide fronds of giant fern trees are like huge hands waving us their welcome. Their fronds unfurl like a beckoning finger, to invite us deeper into the interior.
I love ferns – aren’t they elegant? #Edirisatreks with Gorilla Highlands in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
The scenery is breathtaking, the air is pure, and the only sounds are natural ones: water, birdsong, the leaves dropping from the branches overhead. As I’m taking it all in, mesmerised, a kaleidoscope of small yellow butterflies dance through the air ahead of me. “Didn’t Disney do a great job?” Quips John, the voice from Gorilla Highlands videos.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is home to hundreds and thousands of exotic and rare plant species. Many are endemic. I particularly like the larger-than-life plants. Here ferns grow to three and four metres tall. We crane our necks to stare up at 100-year-old Mahogany tree and take pictures of the pink Impatience flower (a favourite with the gorillas apparently). The flowers gain their name from their quick life-cycle: they open in the morning and drop to the forest floor after just one day.
Looking down at my feet, I notice I am following in the footprints of a duiker.
Duiker (small antelope) footprint, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest with Gorilla Highlands. Diary of a Muzungu
Our guide points to a vibrant Mother of Pearl butterfly. On forest hikes in Uganda, indescribably beautiful butterflies appear from nowhere. Keep your eyes peeled, they flit in and out of your life in seconds. Perhaps that’s their appeal?
Mother of Pearl butterfly. Image courtesy of www.learnaboutbutterflies.com
When 17 people are excitedly tramping through the forest, birdlife and wildlife hides… unsurprisingly! I was happy to focus on the giant plants and the microscopic fungus. Nature is amazing – even if it doesn’t ROAR at you.
Tiny fungus thrive on the underside of a log on our #gorillahike with Gorilla Highlands in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Taking a decent photo in a the Impenetrable Forest is not easy with a very average camera like mine, so you will forgive the rather dark fuzzy pictures – but you get a sense of the place: wall to wall prolific greenery, rivers and waterfalls, in fact a series of three waterfalls that we explore on an hour’s walk from Buhoma.
Diary of a Muzungu leaves the laptop at home for the week-end… Waterfalls beckon. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda
The water is cool and clear. I could have (should have) had a dip at the river junction – Miha did!
Bwindi hiking – above the waterfalls!
Take time to visit all three of Bwindi’s waterfalls. Each one is different.
Check out my minimalist (short!) videos of the waterfalls in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.
The cold clean water and surrounding environment make you feel so alive.
I’m amazed at how few tour operators insist on having this on a safari itinerary. The walk to the waterfalls is the perfect antidote to being stuck in a vehicle for hours or days. The Gorilla Highlands initiative is all about spending more quality time in the region – gorilla trekking in Uganda? Yes, a brilliant experience, but there’s so much more to see and do in south western Uganda.
I loved every minute of our eight hour walk through the Forest, crossing rivers, stopping at waterfalls, taking photos of plants and fungus along the way.
Walking through Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – ahhhh – the peace, the cool air, the solitude….
Along the way there are warnings of Safari ants. “Don’t tuck your trousers into your socks. We want to see you JUMP!” Jokes Miha.
These unassuming and faint marks on the ground are actually industrious Safari ants. Their organisational skills are mind-blowing. They march in one direction delivering chopped up leaves, and back in the other direction empty-handed, for a refill. Round and round they go. Not a single one of them deviates from the direction set by the others.
By mid-afternoon, our group has been walking for several hours. We walk at different speeds and are spaced out at intervals through the Forest, escorted by numerous guides and UWA rangers. There is a shout from someone up ahead:“Red ants!” – and I watch the person ahead of me suddenly start running uphill for 100 metres, trying not to stop long enough for the tenacious red ants to cling on to their boots.
And then it’s my go. Somehow I find the energy to run uphill. At the top – beyond the red ants at least – there is a frenzy of excited laughter and furious stamping of feet as we jump up and down to get rid of the red ants. If ever an animal was tenacious, it is the red ant! Their bite is unforgiving but the incident is quickly forgotten.
View of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest as we ascend from the River Ivy up to Nkuringo. You can clearly see where the protected area of the forest is bordered by community land
Bwindi hiking tips
- Have a small day bag (rucksack) and make sure it’s waterproof. Pack water (minimum one litre), lunch, waterproof clothing and camera.
- Forget about your phone. Turn the damn thing off.
- Take a walking pole or stick. It will help steady you when climbing over rocks and slippery slopes.
- Ideally you should wear walking boots that cover and support your ankle as you climb over rocks and tree roots. Trainers may be okay – if you don’t mind getting your feet wet! There are occasional boggy patches and the ground everywhere can be wet and muddy.
Sun peaks through the canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – but climbing on the uneven terrain of slippery tree roots can be difficult if you don’t have the right footwear
- Keep your mouth shut when you look up through the trees – we spotted quite a few spider’s webs as we looked up!
- Take your camera but be aware that photography is difficult as the forest is quite dark.
- I love birdwatching but forest birds can be hard to see. On my first trip to Bwindi, I hired an expert bird guide. This made all the difference. He was able to mimic the birdsong and call them out of the forest! Forest birds (like those of Kibale Forest) have my favourite songs. You may not see a lot of birds, but you will certainly hear them. Did you know Bwindi was voted the number one destination in Travel Africa magazine’s list of top 10 birdwatching sites in Africa?
- Wear gaiters to keep the ants and other insects out of your boots / trousers / knickers! Failing that, tuck long trousers into long socks.
Do not mess with safari ants! You see how aggressive this little fella can be? Macro photo taken with Safari ant waving his pincers at us, protecting the worker ants
- You don’t have to do the full hike to enjoy Bwindi’s waterfalls. Allow 2 to 3 hours to take in the series of three main waterfalls. A shorter one hour walk takes you to the first waterfall (only). You can then circle back to your starting point in Buhoma.
- Support the Conservation Through Public Health charity’s work to protect the gorillas by staying at their very affordable Gorilla Camp.
My first encounter with a baby mountain gorilla, dangling by one arm several metres above my head. An earlier trip to Buhoma, Bwindi
- Take a tour of Bwindi Community Hospital. Gorilla trekking in Uganda has helped develop Uganda’s best hospital outside Kampala. An amazing achievement for this very poor and once forgotten corner of Africa. I’m very proud of my VSO colleagues and friends who have helped develop Bwindi Community Hospital. The hospital has a very useful page on public transport options for reaching Bwindi (Buhoma) from Kampala.
- To organise a hike through Bwindi, contact Uganda Wildlife Authority. Crossing Bwindi is also the potential start of the Gorilla Highlands Trails.
- In 2015, the cost for a tourist (“foreign non-resident”) to do the trek from Buhoma to Nkuringo is $70 ($40 for entry into the National Park plus $30 for the guided nature walk). For Ugandans (and EAC citizens) the costs are 25k UGX (15k UGX for entry into the National Park plus 10k UGX for the guided nature walk). See this Gorilla Highlands page for more information on costs for Bwindi hiking.
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Virunga Lodge: a 360-degree view of Rwanda’s volcanoes and lakes
A luxury gorilla safari with Volcanoes Safaris
Misty volcanic peaks and lakes dotted with small islands are the backdrop to the sensational Virunga Lodge, our base for a luxury gorilla safari, a 45 minute drive from Kinigi, the starting point for Rwanda’s gorilla trekking.
The volcano and lake geography combined to give us constantly changing weather. I was quite absorbed by it. At one point, a thick white fog completely obscured the volcanoes and Lakes Ruhondo and Bulera (Burera). The mist unveiled the volcanoes, one peak at a time. Every few minutes, I looked up to see the view evolve as the day progressed. Later, bright sunshine showed the detail of the villages far below us.
The main living and dining area of Virunga Lodge is perched on the top of a hill, 2300 metres above sea level. (Adjacent is a large football field cum helicopter pad cum stage for traditional Rwandese dancing by the charming and engaging Intore dancers).
I loved the African inspired décor: tribal art from the Congo, Rwandese wall hangings, black and white photographs and the library of conservation and travel related books. Snug in the huge living room, amongst the stacks of funky cushions, with an open fire burning in the late afternoon, the Muzungu planned her next East African adventure.
I loved the colour combination of Virunga Lodge’s interiors, intimate at night when candlelit. We all loved the food: the salmon mousse went down particularly well. The soups were heavenly and perfect for the chilly nights on the hill.
It hardly needs saying but: our Rwanda luxury gorilla safari trekking was an incredible experience – and without doubt lived up to the hype.
Becca Hensley wrote a wonderful account of our trek to see Rwanda’s mountain gorillas. Suffice to say, two weeks later, back in the city, and I’m still dreaming about our magical gorilla trekking encounter in the bamboo forest.
The music and good humour of the Intore Troupe’s traditional dancing were infectious. They weren’t taking no for an answer when they pulled us up onto our feet to dance with them!
The backdrop to their grassy stage were the peaks of Mounts Muhavura, Gahinga, Sabyinyo, Karisimbi and Visoke.
About Virunga Lodge
The twin Bulera banda’s wide veranda opens on to views high above Lake Bulera and its islands. The bandas are very spacious and well-equipped with a personal safe, a torch and solar lamp – even your own umbrella (indispensable in this part of the world!)
The sensors for the bathroom lights confused me to start with (as I was poised to insert a contact lens and the bathroom suddenly went black!) but I admired the considerable eco-efforts, here and throughout Volcanoes Safaris’ lodges.
Two of the bandas are now deluxe standard, with huge living space, and open fireplaces in the bedroom, private sitting room and outside on the veranda, perfect for honeymooners!
Upon arrival at Virunga Lodge, we were greeted with fresh sweet tree tomato juice and friendly staff who seemed only too happy to carry our big bags up to our banda rooms for us. The living and dining area is at the top of the hill, thus there is a short (but quite steep) walk from your banda.
Virunga Lodge provides free Wi-Fi, but the lodge’s remote location means it may not be as good a connection as you’re used to back home. The Muzungu’s advice? Leave the laptop at home, catch up on some reading, make some new friends and take the 360 degree views.
Activities from Virunga Lodge
The below are all included in the price of an overnight stay at Virunga Lodge:
- Traditional dance performance by the Intore Dance Troupe
- One complimentary massage
- Birding / birdwatching in and around the lodge’s terraced gardens or further afield, with a bird guide.
- A visit to the lodge’s Virunga Vocational Centre to learn about the community’s beekeeping and basket-weaving projects.
- Learn about the life of Dian Fossey in Virunga Lodge’s Dian Fossey map room, a space that is perfect for small conferences and special occasions.
Additional activities from Virunga Lodge
Rwanda has 10 gorilla families that have been habituated for tourists to visit: Sabyinyo, Amahoro, Umubano, Susa, Kwitonda, Karisimbi, Agashya, Bwenge, Ugyenda and Hirwa. Generally it takes between one hour and half a day to trek a gorilla family in Rwanda, but it may take up to 7 hours to visit the Susa family. Trekking the gorillas in Rwanda is usually a little easier than gorilla trekking in Bwindi (Uganda), as the forest is less dense. It is a 45 minute drive from Virunga Lodge to the starting point of the gorilla trekking in Kinigi.
- Hike a volcano:
- Karisimbi Volcano is the highest mountain in the Virunga chain at 4507 metres. Its (frequently) snow-capped peak gives it the alternative name of the “white shell” volcano. Warning: this two day walk (camp overnight) can be tough, wet and cold! The Karisimbi Volcano hike needs to be booked in advance.
- The Visoke Volcano has the iconic cone shape. In its crater lies a deep lake (3,700m). While the hike up isn’t too demanding, nevertheless the altitude can affect climbers because of the sharp ascent. The walk takes about 5-8 hours. (If you are travelling with Volcanoes Safaris, this activity is included in the cost of your safari).
- Famous primatologist Dian Fossey studied Mountain Gorillas in the foothills of Rwanda’s volcanoes. From Virunga Lodge, you can visit Dian Fossey’s grave, the graves of 30 Mountain Gorillas, and hear more about her ground-breaking work and legacy.
- December 26, 2015 marked the 30th anniversary of Dian Fossey’s death. Who murdered her is still not known, but it’s certain that her passion for protecting the mountain gorillas made her many enemies.
- In this short video clip, Praveen Moman, owner of Virunga Lodge, discusses Dian Fossey’s legacy and the importance that ethically managed ecotourism plays in the protection of the gorillas.
- Trek to see the endangered but beguiling Golden Monkeys.
- A stay at Virunga Lodge is highly recommended if you are invited to attend Kwita Izina, the annual gorilla naming ceremony.
- Lodge prices for foreign non-residents are all inclusive (three superb meals plus afternoon tea and snacks, all alcoholic drinks and a variety of community-based activities). Occasionally, there are special offers for local residents.
If you want to stay in a real ecolodge, then you will love Virunga Lodge.
Ecotourism is a word that’s often used but very few lodges live up to the title. Investments such as solar energy, rainwater harvesting, and low flushing eco-toilets are just some of the lodge’s environmentally friendly features. Active development of community projects (at this and other Volcanoes Safaris lodges) are key to the company’s vision.
The Virunga Community Projects support activities that enhance the livelihood of local communities and in turn support the survival of the great apes. “We believe (carefully controlled) ecotourism is essential to the survival of the great apes and that local people need to earn a livelihood if they are to appreciate the importance of protecting our closest primate relatives and their habitats.”
If you’ve travelled halfway round the world for a once-in-a-lifetime encounter with the gorillas, I would highly recommend staying at Virunga Lodge. We flew from Entebbe, Uganda to Kisoro with Aerolink and then drove across the border. You may come for the gorillas, but you will stay for the views – and the food! And the friendliest staff! – it all adds up to an unforgettable experience.
This blog is based on my personal experience. Thank you to Volcanoes Safaris for inviting me on this journalist’s trip and thank you to luxury travel writers Becca Hensley and Margie Goldsmith for all their tips and great stories!
“Eyes turned upward” – aerial photos of South Western Uganda
“When once you have tasted flight, you will forever walk the earth with your eyes turned upward, for there you have been, and there you will always long to return.”
Leonardo da Vinci (1452-1519), painter, artist, engineer & Renaissance genius, Florence, Italy
The Muzungu was looking forward to escaping the sticky city of Kampala for some cool weather and the distant hum of village life. In fact, I was so excited about my imminent departure to Kisoro (and then onto Mgahinga, Virunga and Kigali) that I was ready early: 24 hours early to be precise! Yes, my family may tease me for the missed flights and the missed trains, but not this time. At 5.15 in the morning – indeed! – I stood outside my house, bags packed, waiting for the driver to pick me up…
The Sunday morning flight from Entebbe International airport took off at 7:45 AM.
The check-in process for domestic flights in Uganda is the same as for international flights; however, once you’re through security in the departure lounge, you are up in the air within minutes.
Clean, and with plenty of legroom, there were enough free seats for everyone in our group to have a window seat.
One of the pilots welcomed us on board and told us the emergency procedures. “Behind the seat in front of you, there is a sick bag, in case you need it.” I couldn’t help but notice his tiny, cheeky chuckle.
But we weren’t to need it, the Aerolink flight was smooth as smooth can be.
Our flight took us over Uganda’s former capital of Entebbe. As we flew over the shore of Lake Victoria, we passed over Uganda Wildlife Education Centre UWEC and the departure point for the boat to Ngamba Island, home of the Chimpanzee Sanctuary Wildlife Trust.
The low, early morning sun glimmered on the lake beneath us.
Islands – inhabited and non-inhabited – spread out below us, caught in outline by the rising sun.
Small wooden canoes passed beneath our plane, en route to fish in the depths of the lake.
Flying west, we flew inland over dozens of lakes and waterways, swamps and wetlands. Lake Mburo is a popular weekend destination for Kampala expats, and a convenient stopover en route to gorilla trekking in Bwindi, Mgahinga or gorilla trekking Rwanda, but is in fact just one of many lakes in this part of the world.
Beyond the lakes, the topography changed. I love the way the shadows outline the contours of the land.
I was surprised to see geometric lines – defining land boundaries I assume – not a style I have seen in Uganda. I would love to know why this particular area of land has these straight lines. I wondered if the inhabitants of the area are from outside Uganda?
A newly tarmacked road passes through a trading centre. The road west from Kampala to the Rwandese border has been improved significantly over the past few years – but flying is so much more exciting!
The occasional hill and raised terrain give way to an uninterrupted mountainous area.
The morning sun glints on the tin roofs of houses below us.
There was a sense of anticipation as we approached our destination: Kisoro.
Low cloud or early morning mist?
You have to admire the ingenuity of humans who can live and farm at this altitude. Note how steep many of the terraces are.
On our walking safari in Nkuringo, south side of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, we couldn’t believe how steep the potato fields were. One day we watched a young boy dragging a huge sack of potatoes up quasi-vertical terraced fields. How he managed to stay upright, I don’t know.
The first of the eight volcanoes in the Virunga chain comes into view. Mount Muhuvura is known as ‘the guide’ – this photo clearly shows you why.
Like water lapping at the edge of the lake, mist half covers a village.
Lake Mutanda is an increasingly popular tourist destination in South West Uganda. It’s a great base for hiking volcanoes, walking safaris in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, mountain biking, trekking the mountain gorillas or trekking the Golden Monkeys. Its proximity to Kisoro and the Rwandese border makes it a convenient stopover for anyone trekking the gorillas in Rwanda too.
And she was still asleep! An hour and a half later, this lady passenger was still sleeping as the plane descended to land.
Coming into land at Kisoro airstrip.
A perfect start to a perfect day.
Next stop, Mt. Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga – and breakfast!
Are you looking for domestic flights Uganda?
Aerolink offer daily flights to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (Kihihi and Kisoro airstrips), Queen Elizabeth National Park (Kasese, Semliki and Mweya airstrips), Semuliki National Park (Semliki airstrip), Murchison Falls (Bugungu, Pakuba and Chobe airstrips) and Kidepo Valley National Park (Kidepo airstrip).
For more information on domestic flights Uganda, please email info@aerolinkuganda.com or call +256 776882205/2/3. Remember to say the Muzungu sent you 😉
Hiking in search of the Lucky Bean tree, Bwindi
Nkuringo Gorilla Lodge, in the far south western corner of Uganda, is the ideal starting point for: hikes through Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to Buhoma on the northern side of the Forest, walks to Lake Mutanda and journeys across the lake by dugout canoe towards Kisoro, as well as mountain biking and bird watching. It’s a popular place to stay if you plan to track gorillas from the trailheads at Nkuringo or Rushaga.
On my first stay at Nkuringo Gorilla Camp (which has grown over the years to be known as Nkuringo Gorilla Lodge) friends opted for the ‘one-day circular forest walk,’ starting at Nteko village and following the Ivy River trails and Kashasha River into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. It was spectacular!
Walking safari into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
As we walked downhill towards the River Ivy, our excellent guide Adolf listed some of the mammals we might see in the forest: a golden cat, civets, serval cats, jackals, flying squirrels, red tailed monkey, L’Hoest and black and white Colobus monkeys. The Muzungu’s wildlife wishlist for the day: a Blue Monkey, forest butterflies and some new ticks for my forest bird list please. (A gorilla sighting would be pretty cool too…)
We stopped at a swampy area before crossing the river to enter the park.
“One time we came here and the bridge had been washed away. We had to remove our clothes and walk across through the river,” Adolf told us.
“Even with clients?” I asked.
“Yes!” He laughed.
Safely across the water, Adolf welcomed us into the impenetrable forest. “If you take the wrong turning, you can get lost in the forest for seven days. It happened to someone I know from the village. They had to send out a search party for him.”
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest derives its name from the Mubwindi Swamp in the eastern part of the Forest; its full name being Mubwindi Nyamukari, named after a young woman who was ‘damped’ (drowned) by her father in the swamp. This was one of three local stories we heard of young women being drowned in swamps or waterfalls. Verdict: this was not the best place in the world for a girl to be born. In every story, it was the young woman who copped it every time while the man got away unscathed.
Back in the forest, Adolf warned us to beware the biting safari ants and pointed out the trails where forest hogs had crossed. He also showed us Wild Pineapple, Wild Ginger and the beautiful red Erythinia abyssinia ‘Lucky Bean Tree.’
The pods of the Lucky Bean Tree contain bright red seeds. Local people believe that if you find one of these seeds and put it in your pocket, you will be lucky for the whole day. The thorny structure of the tree is believed to ward evil spirits away too. The Lucky Bean Tree also has medicinal qualities: the ash from its bark can be applied to burns.
“I know it sounds like a silly question, but what does a Blue Monkey look like?” asked my friend Robert.
I never did hear the answer, as we were distracted trying to identify a bird – that turned out to be an enormous cricket!
Encounter with a Silverback
Adolf recounted the story of the day he was called from Nkuringo to Buhoma. This meant he had to walk through the middle of Bwindi Forest.
“As I was moving, we came across a group of 19 gorillas sitting on the track. In the middle was the Silverback gorilla. I had a big stick and I stood back, watching him, and moving very gently. The Silverback started snapping branches on either side of the trail.”
Adolf imitated the low pitched growling of the Silverback. The other gorillas joined in, displaying sounds of annoyance at having been disturbed.
“I didn’t want to turn back. Clients were expecting me in Buhoma.”
“Couldn’t you just wait until they moved?” I asked him.
“It would have been dark by then in the forest. It was already 6 o’clock in the evening.
The Silverback came towards me with his mouth wide open, thumping his chest, screaming at me!
I had to walk backwards, slowly but still facing him. The Silverback mirrored my pace. I took two steps, he took two steps… then I took off running!”
“Was he chasing you?” I asked.
“Yes!” answered Adolf.
“I had turned my walking stick at an angle and the Silverback thought I was going to hit him.” (Adolf imitated the gorilla covering his head with his hands as if to protect himself).
“After some time, the Silverback slowly walked back to his family. I managed to get out of the forest by 8 o’clock. It was completely dark by then. I slowly walked back towards where the gorillas were and walked around them. It was the Nkuringo family of gorillas.”
After hearing Adolf’s alarming gorilla tale, the Muzungu decided to reconsider her wildlife wishlist for the day. I was very happy to settle for some birding highlights that included:
- Brown-throated wattleeye
- White-eyed slaty flycatcher
- Paradise flycatcher
- Black-billed turaco
- Dusky long-tailed cuckoo
The total tracking time was around six hours, in which we covered 17.5 km (most of which seemed to be uphill!) Our steadfast guide Adolf paced our walk just right and I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience, even the steep bits!
It was on our final ascent that we came across a Lucky Bean Tree, right next to our path. Guess which Lucky Bean put the seed in her pocket?
An alternative hike is from Kisoro
After a 90-minute walk to Lake Mutanda, there’s a 2 ½ hour dugout canoe trip north to Rwajenje. (Don’t worry about overexerting yourself: the tour includes a comfy seat, lifejacket and a man to paddle you, while you take photos of the volcanic peaks reflected in the lake). The gentle padding is followed by a 9km / 3-hour walk along community trails up to Rubuguri Junction; here you can be picked up for the final 10km uphill to Nkuringo Gorilla Lodge.
The view from Nteko Ridge
Nteko Ridge is the highest point: there’s nothing between you and Bwindi’s lush rainforest for miles left and right, on one side of the hill and a staggering EIGHT volcanic peaks on the opposite side of the hill.
Volcanoes and rainforests have their own unique weather patterns so the visibility can’t be guaranteed. For me though, that’s half the fun. Wake and look out the window “what will I see today?”
If you’ve never seen a rainforest before, you must visit Bwindi Impenetrable Forest: it’s incredibly dense and incredibly green. THERE ARE A LOT OF TREES. The air is pure and the National Park has almost unimaginable biodiversity. I tingle, just remembering it all.
Gorilla trekking information
The Nkuringo gorilla family group is just a few minutes walk from Nkruringo Gorilla Lodge. Robert Brierley advised us that tracking the gorilla families in Rushaga involves a 23km / 55 minute drive from the lodge. Interested in trekking the gorillas in Uganda? Read Diary of Muzungu’s guide to gorilla trekking. My guide is based on many years’ trekking the gorillas, working with conservation organisations, lodges, guides and tour operators. You can also contact me directly for recommendations.
BINGO! Rwanda’s Kwita Izina, gorilla naming ceremony
It was with great excitement that I travelled to Rwanda to attend the Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony. This event is strictly by invitation only so the Muzungu was honoured to be invited by the Rwanda Development Board, thanks to my friends at The Gorilla Organization (TGO), a British charity whose dedicated international team pull out all the stops to protect the Mountain Gorillas in their native forest habitats straddling the borders of Rwanda, Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
As we drove uphill towards the Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony website, the roads were lined with children and young people all walking in the same direction, eager to see the pop stars descending on Kinigi for the ‘Festival of the Gorillas.’
A magical place indeed. The volcanic peaks of the Virungas, approaching the site of Kwita Izina, Festival of the Gorillas
We sat in the ubiquitous white plastic seats and waited for the show to begin. Every few minutes there was an excited cry from the crowd as another celebrity joined the throng. All we could see was a sea of black heads, just visible above the safety barrier. The kids were gathered for the pop stars of course – there was a huge cheer as popular singer Rastaman arrived – we only hoped they would leave the gorilla naming ceremony as conservationists too.
Kwita Izina is hugely popular with local children gorillas Rwanda
One thing is for sure, one way or another, the majority of these young people will benefit from the gorilla tourism industry, the flagship product for Rwandese tourism. Five per cent of the revenue from tourism is invested in communities living around Rwanda’s national parks. This investment is helping change behaviours, changing once-poachers into protectors of the gorillas and wildlife and habitats in general.
Children flocked to take part in the Festival of the Gorillas
The Rwandese Prime Minister welcomed “ambassadors, friends of Rwanda and distinguished guests – and not forgetting the very important residents of Musanze” to Kwita Izina 2013.
Half of Kigali, representatives from Nairobi, Kampala and 61 journalists from across the world made their way to this small town in the Land of a Thousand Hills for the ninth annual conservation celebration. Not a bad show for a small country the size of Wales.
A smiling Rwanda Development Board ranger welcomed us to Kwita Izina 2013
The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is a very inclusive affair. Over 30 countries were represented at Kwita Izina in 2013. As each country’s name was read out, its representatives stood up to the applause of the audience: the muzungu was delighted to stand up and represent Uganda, from whence I’d travelled on another legendary bus journey.
Traditional dancing from Rwanda’s National Ballet was a delight. Kwita Izina 2013
Traditional dancing from Rwanda’s National Ballet was a delight. Reggae artists Dr Claude and King James went down like a house on fire! I was happy to get on my feet and dance by then. Goodness knows the foothills of the volcanoes are a lot cooler than Kampala. The Muzungu should have worn socks!
Jillian threw a Gorilla Organization frisbee into the expectant crowd of festival goers. Did she get it back…?
The lady MC reminded us that “while we are here to celebrate Rwanda’s gorillas, you can see how much more Rwanda has to offer.” Well organised, professional and a fun day out, I was very impressed by the whole setup and the global ambition of this event.
Audience participation is a key feature of Kwita Izina. Amongst the international celebrities invited to name the gorillas were the American actor Isaiah Washington; the Japanese Ambassador to Rwanda; actors from Nigeria and the Netherlands; the economist Jeffrey Sachs and Secretary General of the UN World Tourism Organization, Dr. Taleb Rifai. You can watch the highlights of the 2013 Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony here.
Each gorilla was named, in English and in Kinyarwanda, to claps and murmurs of approval from the audience. The first baby gorilla to be named was Icyamamare Maktub or ‘Rising Star.’ I liked the name Isimbi ‘Shining Pearl’ said to “represent the shining light of Africa: Rwanda. We look forward to shining the light on tourism in Rwanda.”
Emmanuel, looking very cool in his traditional costume, was honoured to name a gorilla at Kwita Izina 2009
The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is an opportunity to publicly thank the conservationists closest to protecting these great apes.
In 2009, The Gorilla Organization’s Rwanda Programme Manager Emmanuel was invited to name one of the gorillas.
The Gorilla Organization’s Jillian Miller at Kwita Izina 2009 – looking very glam in her Kwita Izina attire
In 2009, the UN Year of the Gorilla, The Gorilla Organization’s Executive Director Jillian Miller and Ian Redmond O.B.E. (Ambassador for Year of the Gorilla and now Chairman of TGO) were invited to take part in the gorilla naming ceremony. Jillian’s gorilla was named ‘Everlasting’. Ian’s gorilla was named Umuganda meaning ‘working together.’ You can watch Ian Redmond’s UN Year of the Gorilla speech at Kwita Izina here.
Putting on the traditional costume and being part of the show sounded great fun!
Ian Redmond O.B.E. Chairman of The Gorilla Organization at Kwita Izina 2013 with Allison Hanes of Art of Conservation
Audience participation is not just reserved for the celebrities: everyone was handed a sheet showing photos of the new baby gorillas, so we could write down the new names as they were read out.
The printed photos and list of new baby gorillas make the event fun and educational. Kwita Izina 2013 Rwanda. (Can you read the Muzungu’s handwriting?)
“It’s a bit like playing bingo!” Jillian joked.
The Kinyrwanda gorilla name ‘Ubukerarugendo’ translates as ‘the early travellers – who woke up early to take a trip.’ “You could say this is the first word for tourism and represents the importance of tourism in Rwanda” said the Secretary General of the UN World Tourism Organization.
What is Kwita Izina?
The Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony is an idea based on the Rwandese tradition of inviting the community to name a newborn child. In Rwanda, it is customary to delay naming a child until some of its characteristics are known. (If you look through some of the names of the 161 gorillas named since Kwita Izina started, many give an insight into the individual gorillas’ temperament and family history). The community join together and party to celebrate this new life.
The Gorilla Organization was previously known as the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund. This painting of Dian hangs in the TGO office in Musanze, Rwanda.
After the gorilla naming ceremony, at Hotel Muhabura (‘the guide’ in English) in Musanze – made famous by the late Dian Fossey – we had a chance to meet Rosette Rugamba, the creator of this must-attend conservation and tourism event.
Rosette Rugamba, the creator of Kwita Izina, with Jillian Miller of The Gorilla Organization, Kwita Izina 2013 Rwanda
I asked Rosette her view on the international success of Kwita Izina?
“When we started this event we had a big vision: to make sure that gorillas continue to be recognised but also to help, in a big way, to change the image of Rwanda. As much as we are honoured to be the custodians of these wonderful creatures, these animals belong to the whole world. That is such a huge responsibility.
So we created a public event. The world needs to watch over us to make sure that we’re making this happen and to celebrate the birth of the gorillas. We continue to be held accountable and the international community realises they have a role in the success of gorilla conservation too.
There was always a concern that tourism might have a bad effect on conservation but it’s proven that responsible tourism can actually contribute to conservation.
Nine years after the creation of Kwita Izina, I think we have come a long way in achieving our objectives. The government is still committed, and has been right from the start.
This is the format of an event that brings in everybody. When we held the first Kwita Izina, 94 nationalities had come to trek the gorillas in Rwanda. Now, I think you could say the whole world has been: someone from every country has trekked the gorillas in Rwanda. Gorillas are symbolic creatures and Rwanda is just lucky.
“I look forward to next year” said Rosette, “10 years of Kwita Izina – a decade!”
This painting of a gorilla family hangs in The Gorilla Organization office in Musanze, Rwanda. The TGO Resource Centre is open to the public
For a premium, visitors to Musanze’s Hotel Muhabura can now stay in cottage number 12, where Dian Fossey regularly stayed on her visits down from the mountains. Dian Fossey’s cottage has been maintained to ‘honour a life dedicated to gorilla conservation.’
If you’d like to learn more about the work of The Gorilla Organization, click here.
Would you like to attend Kwita Izina? Would you like to trek the Mountain Gorillas?
If you’re travelling to Rwanda at the time of Kwita Izina, you are invited to attend the event. Invitations need to be issued in advance and the date does change from year to year so you are advised to check the Kwita Izina section of the Rwanda Development Board website or contact me directly. This would be the perfect time for you to trek the mountain gorillas yourself! Contact the Muzungu for more information on buying gorilla trekking permits in Rwanda or trekking the Mountain Gorillas in Uganda.
