Fodor’s Travel writers around the world share what life is like under lockdown. (Scroll down to read how lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest looks – one year down the line.)
Fodor’s Travel asks What are expats around the world doing during Coronavirus?
“With guidebooks that cover every continent except Antarctica, Fodor’s has a network of writers that extends across the globe. Some of our writers cover the places in which they grew up, while others are constantly on the move. Here, we’ve asked some of our expat writers what it’s like to be a travel writer who can’t return to their home country.”
Kibale Forest, western Uganda
March 25th 2020: “Lockdown is imminent in Uganda. The airport and borders are closed, and all schoolchildren were sent home two weeks ago. Bars, restaurants, markets, churches, and mosques are closed until further notice (and ban-breakers are being arrested). However, few people are taking social distancing seriously and with crowded public transport and densely populated slums, we are bracing ourselves for the worst. Until a couple of weeks ago, most Ugandans thought coronavirus was a disease that only affected China until we had our first confirmed case last week—a 36-year-old Ugandan man who had traveled to Dubai.
I live off-grid on the edge of Kibale National Park; I am in an enviable position. However, we are scared too. If one of us is ill, clinics are a long drive away and poorly-equipped when we get there. Although we are in such a lucky position, deep in the village and with a good supply of food, we have lost all our business. The capital Kampala is six hours away and my travel via public transport is no longer an option.
My income is from tourism. Most of my clients are tour operators and lodges who have had virtually all their trips and bookings canceled. We have no accommodation bookings. I’ve been alarmed at the lack of information online in Uganda about coronavirus, so I have published a blog about coronavirus that collates the best (verified) information. I’m updating it on a regular basis in my attempt to bridge the information gap here. It’s given me purpose too. Overall, I’m doing okay emotionally, but my biggest worry is my 70+-year old parents in the UK; I have not seen them for over a year.
We are prepared for full-on lockdown here in Kibale Forest. I now exercise every day and try to sleep well (and act silly as often as I can manage!) We start home-schooling my nine-year-old nephew this week — there are challenges in every direction we look!”
—Charlotte Beauvoisin’s profile on Fodor’s.com
You can read the full article, with contributions from 20 travel writers from across the world, on Fodor’s Travel.
“When she’s not traveling around East Africa, you’ll find Charlotte Beauvoisin watching chimpanzees and birds from the balcony of her wooden cottage on the edge of Kibale National Park, Uganda. She’s lived in Uganda since 2009 and has updated the Uganda section of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Follow her on Facebook, Twitter, and Instagram.“
The Muzungu adds: I joke to Julia that we have ‘won the Lockdown Lottery.’ Every morning I walk the forest-edge trails of Sunbird Hill. It is quite something to have this all to ourselves and I treasure every moment: birding, butterfly-watching, and occasionally chimp watching too! There is so much to see, hear and learn about Kibale Forest, nature is throwing stories at me ‘thick and fast.’ Lockdown has given me the time to learn more bird calls, identify butterflies and Coleoptera (beetles), watch primates and teach my 9 year old nephew Dillon how to take photos. I know the trails like the back of my hand now…
I left the comforts of Kampala for a temporary sojourn on the edge of Kibale National Park. Two years later and I’m still based here! Since I’m frequently on the road – anywhere between Watamu on the Kenyan coast and Musanze in the northern province of Rwanda, lockdown in Kibale Forest – with no tourists – is in fact quite a treat, an opportunity to immerse myself in a beautiful corner of East Africa…
March 2021: Grateful everyday recalls a year of #LockdownDiaries – locked down with nature.
Today is day 91 of our lockdown here on the edge of the forest. Every day brings new sightings, from troupes of Red Colobus Monkeys to gorgeous Charaxes butterflies, vibrant Coleoptera beetles and even elephants last week!
Life has changed for us immeasurably over the last months. (It’s hard to get our heads around it isn’t it?) My nomadic lifestyle has ground to a halt. I am just thankful that lockdown finds me here…
You live in one of my most favorite parts of Uganda. You have it all in one! Amazing!
Nice to read from you Herbert. I’ve lived on the edge of Kibale Forest for two years now. Every day I see new things. Nature is mind-blowing. We have no TV and no radio and I have read two newspapers in three months but am I bored? IMPOSSIBLE. We count our blessings to be locked in with the natural world and hope to see you back here again before too long.
#StaySafeUG
Charlotte you guys live in heaven! SBH is an awesome location and if I could, I’d be there tomorrow. How’s the veggie patch doing?
Honestly Nari, I am grateful every day for living in such a splendid corner of the world, especially during lockdown. We are spoiled – we have the whole place to ourselves (and elephants last night…! And this morning we were woken by chimps!)
We hope to welcome you back again before too long. Greetings to the family #TravelTomorrow
Hi Charlotte, thanks for sharing your story. I am so glad to see you are enjoying yourself in Kibale despite lockdown. I come from Fort Portal, that’s my home town about 2kms from Fort Portal town along Kibale Road. I miss home. Lock down got me in Toronto, it’s very different. My sister always put me on video calls showing me how she spends her day doing farming and having monkeys walking around, nice lush area, it’s breathtaking. Every time I am travelling home, when I reach at the tea plantations along Kampala road and start looking at Rwenzori mountains, the cool breeze of the beautiful weather in Fort Portal welcomes me. It’s a pleasant feeling to be home. That’s the bat place to be during lock down. I hope your tourism business picks up soon, otherwise the tourism industry in Uganda has been hit hard. I am certain not only Uganda, but around the world. You are welcome to Tooro, enjoy your stay. I hope to visit in December hoping the airspace opens.
Hi Harriet, interesting to read how we are somehow neighbours 🙂 Thanks for making me feel so welcome in your wonderful country. Greetings to your sister and I hope you manage a trip home this year. I am supposed to fly to UK this month but of course flight was cancelled… We #TravelTomorrow
This is a well written piece with nice pictures. Keep it up
Hi Richard, webale kusiima. Hope you get a chance to visit us one day soon… you would LOVE it here!
Very soon life will start all over again. Savannah parks now open for those within the boundaries of the country. Stay home now so that you are able to travel tomorrow. Our Parks are waiting.
Mpola, mpola, we will be patient Dr 🙂
Thanks for dropping by Diary of a Muzungu …
Hey Nagawa Very lucky covid got you in sunbird hill. no worries of getting the virus
You’re right Rashid … I made sure I raced back here when the President first went on TV to discuss Coronavirus.
I was in Entebbe where we had a day’s digital marketing training with Uganda Wildlife Authority. As we took the group photos, the President went on air to announce the closure of schools. I knew I would only have a few days to get back here. As the Link bus stopped in Mubende, dozens of schoolchildren were pushing to get on the bus. Unusually, they allowed some extra passengers to stand in the aisle.
I managed to get back to the forest just in time.
Hope you and the boys are doing okay 🙂