How much does it cost to track mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
How much are gorilla tracking permits in Uganda and Rwanda?
A gorilla tracking permit includes entry into the National Park, experienced ranger guides who will escort you while sharing unlimited gorilla facts, one hour with the gorillas themselves and – most importantly – bragging rights in the form of a gorilla tracking certificate (in Uganda) and endless selfies (wherever you track!) Woo hoo!
The permit is just one part of the equation of course: you also need to cover transport, accommodation, meals, tips and souvenirs…
How much are Uganda gorilla tracking permits?
| Uganda gorilla tracking fees – (Bwindi & Mgahinga) July 2024 – June 2026 | Gorilla tracking permit | Gorilla habituation experience |
|---|---|---|
| Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 800 | USD 1,500 |
| Foreign resident (expats) in Uganda | USD 700 | USD 1,000 |
| Rest of Africa | USD 500 | USD 1,000 |
| Ugandans & EAC citizens | UGX 350,000 | UGX 750,000 |
UWA’s price list or “conservation tariff” covers: National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees; gorilla / chimpanzee tracking; boat rides; game drives; nature walks; volcano and mountain hiking, and biking. Prices are for international tourists (foreign non-residents), foreign residents (expats) and East African citizens, including Ugandans (domestic tourists). Read a summary of UWA’s fees for 2024 to 2016 (with links to some of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite blogs).
How much are Rwanda gorilla tracking permits?
UPDATE 2024: Until 31 December 2024, Rwandans, expats and all Africans can track gorillas in Rwanda at the discounted prices listed above.
| Rwanda gorilla tracking fees (2024 fees) | Gorilla tracking permit |
|---|---|
| Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 1,500 |
| Foreign residents in Africa (expats) including Rwanda | USD 500 |
| African citizens | USD 500* |
| Rwandans & EAC citizens | USD 200* |
- After repositioning itself as an upmarket tourist destination, in May 2017 Rwanda increased gorilla tracking permits to $1500 each, regardless of whether you were an international tourist, expat or East African residents. That sounds like a bum deal for local people (but RDB argue that only a tiny percentage of permits were sold to locals).
- Rwanda has an exclusive package for tourists who would like to book a whole family of gorillas. Priced at US$ 15,000, the group get access to exclusive personalised tour guiding.
- Visitors to Rwanda who track the gorillas and visit Nyungwe Forest and Akagera National Parks for a minimum of three days will qualify for a 30% discount on their gorilla permit.
- International visitors attending conferences in Rwanda are eligible for a 15% discount on gorilla permit fees if tracking the gorillas before or after their conference.
How much are DRC gorilla tracking permits?
Gorilla tracking permits in the DRC are very cheap by comparison. Congolese citizens have preferential pricing but other East Africans don’t.
What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?
For the best value for money, most visitors to East Africa will combine gorilla trekking with a Safari before or after their trip.
Booking your gorilla permits yourself and travelling by public transport is possible but there are pitfalls to be aware of. The downside of making your own arrangements is that you can sometimes end up incurring more costs. If, for example, you miss your bus or it breaks down (not uncommon) you might miss your gorilla trek. Permits are non-refundable, meaning if you arrive a day late, then you will have missed your slot. Most visitors therefore travel on a scheduled group tour or book their own driver and vehicle, usually through a tour company, such as one of the registered companies featured in my Travel Directory.
The other pitfall to avoid when arranging gorilla tracking yourself in Uganda is booking accommodation that is a long way from the gorilla family you are tracking. You will have to be up very early on the morning of your tracking so you want to stay as close as possible to the park headquarters. (Uganda’s gorilla families are spread several hours apart).
The average mid-range three day gorilla safari costs approximately $1200, depending on the number of people in your group. The cheapest way to see the gorillas is to travel on a scheduled overland trip during low season. If a tour is advertised to include gorilla tracking then the cost of the permit should be included in the price you are quoted, but do read the small print carefully!
A top of the range luxury gorilla Safari may cost $3 – $5,000 per person and may include fly-in options and five-star accommodation.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the links in the
Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Uganda tourist visas – what you need to know [UPDATED]
As a rule, all Ugandan tourist visas and work permits must be applied for online BEFORE you travel. However: October 2024 the official Uganda visa application portal was temporarily out of service. It is now back online (October 14).
“Due to ongoing e-immigration system upgrade travellers are unable to access online visa services. As a temporary measure to minimise travel disruptions, airlines should allow travellers destined for Uganda to board without prior e-visa approval. Please note that this exemption is temporary until our e-visa system is restored.”
Which nationals need to pay for a visa to enter Uganda?
Click here to see the “List of visa exempt nationalities. If your nationality is on the list, you don’t need to apply for a visa to enter Uganda.
How to apply for Ugandan tourist visa?
The Ugandan government’s online electronic visa application system is mandatory for applying for all Ugandan visas, including: entry permit (work permit), Uganda tourist visa, multiple entry visa, transit visa, East Africa tourist visa, student pass, diplomatic visa, official visa, special pass, Certificate of Residence and dependent’s pass.
Requests for tourist visas, passes and work permits (E-Visa and E-permits) should be completed via this link on the official Uganda immigration website.
Applicants for all immigration services such as visas, work permits and passes will be required to apply and pay online, and an electronic notification / authorisation will be sent to the applicant before proceeding to the preferred Entry Point e.g. Entebbe International Airport or the nearest Uganda Mission abroad for the visa to be issued. Uganda has 22 official ‘points of entry’ border posts. Entebbe International Airport has the majority of tourist arrivals, followed by Katuna / Gatuna (Rwanda) and Busia and Malaba (Kenya border).
Are you travelling to Uganda? Apply for a Ugandan visa online
Apply at least ONE MONTH prior to travel. (However, some applications are approved in hours, others days, some not at all… if you apply too early, your visa approval may even get cancelled and you’re unlikely to get your money back).
Be prepared. You need to complete the online application in one sitting. The online application does not allow you to save your information and return to the screen later.
NOTE: COVID-19 vaccination certificates and negative PCR test results are no longer required. HOORAY. For more info on the exact documents needed, according to the type of visa you are applying for, go to the Uganda immigration web site general information page.
If you’re applying for a single entry Uganda tourist visa, you’ll need to upload:
- Passport bio-data page (with validity of at least 6 months)
- Recent passport-size photo (for example US or UK passport photo size (not Canadian size, which is larger, apparently).
- Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate. Read Frequently Asked Questions from travelers about Yellow Fever in Uganda – with advice from a tropical medicine doctor.
- Return ticket. Return ticket / tour itinerary. In reality, not all travellers have these so an alternative is to write and upload a letter detailing your onward travel plans.
The files you upload can’t be bigger than 250kb (that’s pretty small!) so resize all your docs before you start the application process. Only PDF, JPEG, PNG and BMP files are accepted.
The Uganda immigration web site details the fees for applying for Ugandan visas online.
Pay online for your Uganda tourist visa. Only Mastercard and Visa are accepted online and there is a 3% surcharge for online payment. In 2024, the single entry Uganda tourist visa fee is $50: $51.50 for the visa and $1.50 admin fee. For more info about the tourist visa, work permit and pass fees, the website of Africa Immigration Advisory Services, Kampala is very helpful.
When you complete the visa application process, make a note of your application number! You may need this in case you have to follow up. Otherwise, click here to retrieve your Uganda visa application ID but some people say this hasn’t always worked.
The decision taken on the online application (“yes” or “no” on whether you’re coming to Uganda) will be sent via email. Assuming you get the go-ahead, your visa approval letter will be sent as an email attachment. You’re advised to print this travel authorisation (showing a barcode) and keep this with your travel documents (although it is not mandatory apparently). However, Ugandans do love printed papers so print everything you can, just to avoid unforeseen delays.
Present the barcode at point of entry [that will be “Entebbe Airport” if you’re entering Uganda by air] together with a valid passport / travel document of “not less than 6 months validity” and you should get your tourist visa. You can get a maximum of 90 days in one go; if you want that, say so, otherwise you may just be given two weeks for example. Present the barcode at point of entry [that will be “Entebbe Airport” if you’re entering Uganda by air] with your valid passport of “not less than 6 months validity” and you should get your tourist visa. You can get a maximum of 90 days in one go; if you want that, say so, otherwise you may just be given two weeks for example. Visitors to Uganda can stay for up to 6 months on a single entry tourist visa, without being charged anything extra. To get an extension on the days written in your passport at Entebbe, go to one of the immigration offices, for example Jinja Road in Kampala.
NOTE: “the travel authorization [approval] letter does not guarantee entry into Uganda. Travelers will be subjected to secondary verification where necessary before personalization,” meaning it is not 100% guarantee you will be issued a visa at the airport / border / Uganda mission (but you probably will, unless you’ve been very naughty indeed).
For answers to Frequently Asked Questions, go to the Uganda immigration Help page.
As you’ll see from many comments below, lots of visa applications get stuck at the “pending” stage. This is normally because the applicant has forgotten to send in one of the documents, or immigration are requesting more information (but frequently aren’t clear what that is!) There have been lots of complaints about emails not being answered but Uganda immigration do reply fairly quickly via their Facebook page. If you’re telephoning Uganda Immigration, the country code for Uganda is +256.
The Directorate for Citizenship and Immigration’s call centre is open from 7am to 7pm Uganda time (with plans for it to be operated 24 hours at some stage). Call +256 417 102600 or toll-free 0800 199004 / 0800 199003 in Uganda.
In addition to visa requirements, every traveller has to consider health-related protocols. These are subject to change. For what to expect when passing through Uganda’s international airport, read Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport (updated regularly). I also have a post about the East Africa Tourist Visa and a post on Rwanda’s visa on arrival.
Any feedback or questions about Ugandan tourist visas? Feel free to contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues, visitors to Uganda and advice from an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, or moving to Uganda, I’m your woman! I’ve been advising travellers and expats on everything Uganda-related for many years. What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
Flying into Uganda? Latest health rules at Entebbe International Airport [UPDATED]
This page is updated regularly and supercedes all previously published Uganda health-related travel info. Here I share updates on disease outbreaks and health screening at Uganda’s Entebbe International Airport.
Tropical diseases in Uganda
We praise the Pearl of Africa for her astounding biodiversity (so we shouldn’t be surprised that’s reflected in the bacteria and viruses too!) That said, the country is quick to nip outbreaks in the bud: Ebola, Marburg and Zika are just a few of that have hit the headlines. Thankfully, Uganda has high level support from international medical agencies, such as the US Center for Disease Control, and my advice to travelers is: try not to worry about any of these (very rare) diseases. (I’ve lived in Uganda for 15 years by the way). In my opinion, the Ministry of Health’s X account is the best source for the latest health info.
COVID-19 in Uganda – summary
UPDATE September 2024: I have been through Entebbe Airport this month and at no point did I hear the dreaded words “COVID” “PCR” or even “Yellow Fever certificate.” HALLELUJAH.
At the time of writing, a small number of cases of M-pox have been identified in Uganda (and Rwanda and the DRC) but we are not unduly worried. M-Pox is infectious but can easily be treated with antibiotics.
Arrivals at Entebbe Airport
The arrivals process at Entebbe International Airport follows this order:
- Sanitise hands [now optional].
- Have documents checked:
- Yellow Fever certificate [mine wasn’t checked in September 2024].
- Pass through immigration. (If you are a tourist, it’s imperative that you apply for your Uganda tourist visa online in advance. Some airlines will not allow you to board without your visa approval letter. For the latest info, read Uganda tourist visas and East Africa Tourist Visas. I frequently answer visa-related enquiries.
- Collect your checked-in luggage.
- If you need an ATM or Forex (foreign exchange), you can access both by the baggage carousel.
- Pass luggage (including cabin bags) through scanner.
- If you are a tourist, the Uganda Tourism Board has an information desk and seating just past the baggage collection area. UTB staff are on hand to make phone calls and order taxis, for example. This service is available for all tourists, 24 hours a day, even for those who travel independently. This initiative is spearheaded by Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board.
- Entebbe Airport has free WiFi.
- Exit airport.
- Enjoy fabulous Ugandan weather!
Departures from Entebbe Airport
- (Although this advice is historical, I can’t confirm that every destination has removed pandemic restrictions).
- Travelers departing Entebbe International Airport are required to know, understand, and interpret COVID-19 requirements of both the country they are travelling to and the airline they are flying with.
- The muzungu adds: I advise having a screenshot or print-out of your COVID-19 vaccination / negative COVID PCR certificate. Print facilities are available at Entebbe Airport but you will need to allow extra time to go to lower ground floor of arrivals.
Yellow Fever in Uganda – summary
There’s a “neglible” risk of getting Yellow Fever in Uganda, however you will need to show proof of vaccination.
A Yellow Fever vaccination is now valid for life, says the World Health Organization, so no boosters are needed. Got a question? In “Ask the Travel Doc,” Dr Natalie Prevatt answers traveler FAQs about Yellow Fever.
Which diseases should I worry about if I’m travelling to Uganda?
Your biggest health concern should be How to avoid malaria. I’m not medically qualified but I have plenty of personal tips to share, based on my 15 years living in Uganda. You might also enjoy Uganda travel advice I ignored!
Are you planning to travel to Uganda soon? The Travel Directory has a list of tour operators who can help you plan a trip. Feel free to contact me directly if you have any travel questions.
What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide [UPDATED]
The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya (only). Your questions answered…
The idea of a single regional East Africa Tourist Visa is to make it easier – and more financially attractive – for tourists to visit the whole region.
You should be able to visit the three countries of Uganda + Rwanda + Kenya on a single visa – or so the theory goes. If you enjoy cross-border travel tips and stories, you might enjoy No hurry in Africa – the bus from Kigali to Kampala and The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya.
In this blog post you will find details about the different East Africa Tourist Visa application processes for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Although the three countries share a tourist visa, the application differs, according to the country where you start your East African travels.
Without an East Africa Tourist Visa, you may spend a lot of time (and money) applying for separate visas for the three countries: Kenya + Rwanda + Uganda. Most tourist visas are ‘single entry’ only, meaning that a return visit to any of these countries means paying the visa fee again. The East Africa Tourism Visa is commonly available.
“The holder of the East Africa Tourist Visa shall enter from the country that issued the visa and move within the two other countries without applying for another visa or paying for another visa fee.”
Doesn’t that sound good?
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Do you have any questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa?
I start by sharing the official information. Scroll further down the page for some practical travel tips. If you have any more visa or travel information to share, please add comments below this article or message me directly I will then update this page.
1. Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda – with more countries joining in the future.
2. How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
100 USD for internationals.
The EATV is free of charge to foreign residents / expats (with valid work permits) in the three countries: Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. For these kinds of travellers the EATV is issued in the form of an “interstate pass.”
Foreign residents and citizens of the three countries need to travel with a valid passport or National ID or Student ID and request an Interstate Pass at the border. (NOTE to East Africans: if you don’t have a passport, you may be asked to buy a Temporary Travel Document. In Uganda, this costs 10k UGX and can be bought at the border or at Uganda Immigration in Port Bell, Kampala, for example).
3. How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
90 days
4. Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
No. The East Africa Tourist Visa is a multiple entry visa.
According to Carmen Nibigira, (former) Regional Coordinator, East Africa Tourism Platform, the East Africa Tourist Visa entitles the traveller to 90 days uninterrupted travel in and out of the three participating countries. NOTE: the East Africa Tourist Visa is only multiple entry within the EATV zone. Once you leave the zone (e.g. go to Tanzania, which is not part of the EATV, even though it is an EAC country), you will need to apply for a new visa.
5. Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
No. The official line is that you cannot extend the East Africa Tourist Visa (although Rwanda states that you “may in exceptional circumstances.”To get a new EATV, you need to exit the EATV zone and apply for a new one, as detailed below.
6. Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
Official line: “Work is prohibited.”
7. How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
It’s important to note that the process for purchasing the East Africa Tourist Visa differs according to the country you travel to first. October 2024: it is easy to get an East Africa Tourist Visa in all three countries. For Uganda and Kenya, you must apply online in advance for all visas. For Rwanda, apply online in advance or get visa on arrival.
The system has been computerised (hooray! no more forms to fill in). When you arrive at the airport / border, you will be asked how long you want to stay. You hand over your passport, they print a form with your details and you pay $100. Make sure you get an East Africa Tourist Visa sticker in your passport. This is signed and stamped.
“For any questions, contact the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Kenya, Republic of Rwanda and Republic of Uganda before you travel.”
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Kenya first?
If Kenya is your first point of entry, buy your East Africa Tourist Visa online. Alternatively, contact your local Kenyan embassy for details on how to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa before you start your trip.
NOTE: October 2024. I have spent some time understanding Kenya’s eTA (Electronic Travel Authorisation). Kenya claims it is now “visa free” yet most passport holders have to instead apply – and pay for – the eTA. Confused? Yes I was! Here’s Diary of a Muzungu’s advice on how to apply for Kenya’s eTA, along with some useful extra links below:
eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa and Interstate Pass applications. (The Interstate Pass is available to East African residents).
For further clarification before you travel to Kenya, contact eVISA Customer Care.
General queries: +254 202 222 022, +254 110 922 063, +254 110 922 064.
Payment queries: +254 110 922 062. Email: evisa@immigration.go.ke
The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Rwanda first?
If Rwanda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, you can get your East Africa Tourist Visa on arrival. Read my blog post Rwanda issues visas on arrival to all nationals, which I update regularly.
However, you can also apply online in advance if you prefer. Use Irembo, the Rwandan government’s online visa application system. Click here to apply and look for ‘visa application.’ Under “Type of Visa” select “East Africa Tourist Visa.”
For more guidance on the East Africa Tourist Visa in Rwanda, see Class T12 East Africa Tourist Visa on the goevernment website.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: if you have any flexibility in your itinerary, enter the East Africa Tourist Visa zone via Rwanda. They have the simplest application process.
How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Uganda first?
If Uganda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, use the official Uganda Electronic Visa/Permit Application System to apply for your East Africa Tourist Visa. My blog Uganda tourist visas – what you need to know includes info on Ugandan single entry tourist visas, East Africa Tourist Visas, business visas, transit visas, work permits, dependent’s pass and more. I update these visa posts regularly.
You can also request your East Africa Tourist Visa at your local Ugandan embassy.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: immigration request a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, don’t argue with immigration; they will always have the last word. If you do not have a detailed itinerary or evidence of where you will be staying, upload a letter explaining your plans, or immigration may deny you an EATV.
8. What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
Citizens of Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda can now travel between the three countries with ID cards instead of passports. No visas are needed and there is no charge for the Interstate Pass (a small slip of paper that is issued at the border / airport).
Expatriates with valid work permits can also travel with the ‘Interstate Pass,’ without needing to get a visa. Woop, woop!
NOTE: October 2024. I am reviewing the guidance for Kenya: scroll down for link to apply online for Interstate Pass.
Make sure you keep the Interstate Pass safe with your passport as you may be asked to return it when you leave the country.
In both cases, nationals and expats are simply given an Interstate Pass document when they show their ID/passport and exit one of the three countries. This is free of charge and issued at the border.
March 2018: I travelled by road to Kenya with a Ugandan friend. She was travelling on her Ugandan ID card. Immigration insisted she purchase a Temporary Travel Document at Busia (cost 10k UGX) even though the East Africa Tourist Visa / Interstate Pass allows nationals to travel on their ID. At Busia, Interpol wanted to interview my friend. They were suspicious of a young Ugandan travelling on her ID card and explained that people traffickers are known to hold the young people’s passports for them at the other end of their journey. On our return bus journey, one vulnerable-looking young woman was intercepted by Interpol. It was clear she was being trafficked. The experience was sobering.
9. Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
The East Africa Tourist Visa is only valid in Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda but we hope one day more countries will join the EATV party.
The East African Community has eight member states. In alphabetical order, these are:
- Democratic Republic of the CONGO
- Republic of BURUNDI
- Republic of KENYA
- Republic of RWANDA
- Federal Republic of SOMALIA
- Republic of SOUTH SUDAN
- Republic of UGANDA
- United Republic of TANZANIA
- The East Africa Tourist Visa. What is the situation on the ground?
(What the tour operators may not tell you)
Officially, you could only get the EATV when you first entered the EATV zone, either in advance online or at an embassy / diplomatic mission / on arrival at the airport (Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda).
These are the four (official) points of entry for the East Africa Tourist Visa but cross-country borders seem to issue the EATV now as well:
- Uganda – Entebbe International Airport
- Rwanda – Kigali International Airport
- Kenya – Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
- Kenya – Mombasa, Moi International Airport and the Port of Mombasa.
The fact that you could only get an East Africa Tourist Visa when you first entered the EATV countries was a bit of a drawback for some people who may arrive in one country, without having made firm travel plans. It’s quite common for travellers to arrive without an itinerary. Someone may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, for example, and decide they want to travel to the Kenyan coast next.
Visas issued for specific countries can only be used for that particular country.
Notes from friends and travelers regarding the East Africa Tourist Visa
In its initial form, the EATV was not as flexible as it could be, particularly for backpackers and budget travelers who often make up their travel plans as they go. I know people who arrived in Uganda on a single country tourist visa but then decided to travel within East Africa. My friends’ experience was that when you are travelling by road, the situation was even less clear:
- Cyanika border (Rwanda / Uganda). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Rwanda by road here? You can certainly get one at Gatuna (April 2018).
- Busia border (Uganda / Kenya). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Kenya by road? Yes, now you can.
- If in doubt, it’s always best to apply online in advice and/or contact the muzungu. Don’t get stranded!
Any feedback or questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa? Feel free to contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
DISCLAIMER: My name is Charlotte Beauvoisin. I am a Uganda resident and I regularly travel to Kenya and Rwanda. I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues and visitors, supported by the advice of an immigration expert. I can’t promise this info is always accurate – but I try my best! Things can change quickly and without notice. I take no responsibility for content on external websites. I work closely with the tourism industry so if you need any information on travel to Uganda, Rwanda, Kenya (or wider East Africa) I’m your woman! What is Diary of a Muzungu all about?
Sustainable stars at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo
Showcasing sustainability at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE) 2024: the best sustainable tourism stands and Fair Trade Tourism Early Adopters
Charlotte Beauvoisin, writer of Diary of a Muzungu, was honoured to help judge Uganda’s Sustainable Tourism Awards. Thanks to my fellow judges, Uganda Tourism Board team and Enabel for helping me compile this article.
As Uganda embarks on its sustainable tourism journey, many companies and partners are coming together to train, implement and promote best practices in sustainable, responsible and Fair Trade Tourism. The giving of awards is a good way to showcase best practice and encourage responsible tourism.
With this in mind, Uganda Tourism Board (UTB) with the support of Enabel (the Belgian development agency) held the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo’s inaugural sustainable tourism awards. In 2024, these awards were judged purely on the stands of exhibitors taking part in the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE). It’s hoped that in future years, the awards can take a deeper look at the company’s commitments and operations – beyond the expo itself.
The judges agreed to make four awards this year:
- Best Sustainable Stand – Overall
- Best Sustainable Stand – Tour and Travel
- Best Sustainable Stand – Hospitality
- Best Sustainable Stand – Innovation
For the full list of runners-up and special mentions, scroll down.
In 2024, the judges assessed POATE exhibitors based on the following criteria:
Design and construction materials of stand: EXAMPLES. Stands that used natural, locally sourced or recycled materials; designs that embodied the culture they are promoting; clever use of technology. The materials were considered biofriendly and encouraged community engagement since they were sourced from within the community and after use they would be easy to dispose of.
Waste reduction: EXAMPLES. Refillable metal water bottles and QR codes (instead of plastic bottles and lots of printed leaflets); the use or promotion of recycled products; promotional giveaways that were made in Uganda, and not imported. The judges applauded locally sourced materials that can be used in multiple ways.
General impressions of the stand, its attractiveness, welcoming staff with a sense of professionalism and inclusiveness: EXAMPLES. Smiling, knowledgeable staff are key to making a good impression. At stands that did well, staff wore branded uniforms or traditional dress, and gave a good sense of the destination or activity they were promoting.
Sustainable product offer: EXAMPLES. Development of new activities; promotion of new destinations; community-based tourism (developed with the community at heart) and low carbon footprint activities were of particular interest; stands that promoted environmental initiatives such as the planting of indigenous trees.
How decisions were reached
With the Uganda Tourism Board and Enabel, the judges identified a set of four criteria. The judges then toured the Expo and Cultural Village at the Pearl of Tourism Expo to nominate and assess eye-catching stands that they believed demonstrated the stand owner’s commitment to sustainability. The judges then deliberated to agree a shortlist.
Judges at the sustainable tourism awards 2024
- Assoc. Prof Jim Ayorekire – Makerere University, Department of Forestry Biodiversity and Tourism
- Lucie Carlier – Project Manager, Enabel
- Robert Ntale – Vice Chairperson, Exclusive Sustainable Tour Operators Association (ESTOA)
- Eric Ntalumbwa – PR Manager, Uganda Wildlife Education Centre (UWEC)
- Charlotte Beauvoisin – Diary of a Muzungu & CBI Netherlands (Trainer in Sustainable Tourism & Digital Marketing)
- Samora Machel Semakula – Quality Assurance Manager, Uganda Tourism Board (UTB)
In the words of this year’s judges
“Sustainability is no longer about doing less harm. It’s about doing more good.” (Jochen Zeitz). As a sector and a country, we need to ensure tourism contributes to enhancing the experience of the tourists and at the same time improving the livelihoods of the host communities through responsible practices. Am glad to contribute in this direction.”
Assoc. Prof. Jim Ayorekire, Makerere University
“It was an honour to serve as a judge for the Sustainable and Fair Trade Tourism awards at the POATE this year. Seeing the innovative ways these tourism businesses are promoting sustainability and fair practices was truly inspiring. Their commitment to environmental protection, community empowerment, and ethical operations is helping to shape a more responsible tourism industry in Uganda. Being part of recognizing these early adopters and leaders in sustainable and equitable tourism was a highlight of the event for me.”
Lucie Carlier, Enabel
“Sustainability and innovation took centre stage at POATE 2024. My hope and prayer is that these Awards are sustainable! The stakeholders need more engagement to embrace sustainability through responsible tourism, because there is willingness to adhere.”
Eric Ntalumbwa
“Thank you to Uganda Tourism Board and Enabel for inviting me to be one of the judges. It was a pleasure to collaborate with my peers. Based on these first awards, I look forward to seeing a burst of creativity in sustainable tourism in Uganda!”
Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu & The East Africa Travel Podcast
Winners of the Best Sustainable Stands at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo (POATE) 2024
Best Sustainable Stand – Overall winner – Buganda Heritage and Tourism Board
Best Sustainable Stand – Tour and Travel
- Kara-tunga Arts and Tours
- Maleng Travel
- Loremi Tours – experience the soul of Acholi
Best Sustainable Stand – Hospitality
- Mucha Riverside Lodge, Bwindi / Kisoro
- Lemala Authentic Camps and Lodges, Jinja
- Sambiya River Lodge, Murchison Falls
- Four Points by Sheraton, Kampala
- Kikonko Lodge, Lake Albert
Best Sustainable Stand – Innovation
- Good Glass, Kampala recycled glass household items
- SANA Gorilla Rafting
- KAFRED (Kibale Association for Rural and Environmental Development), Bigodi near Kibale Forest. Community-based tourism, locally made crafts, training centre for local guides
- “Beyond the Park” conservancy model of conservation outside three National Parks:
Kidepo Valley https://kkakkawildlife.org and Murchison Falls https://snarestowares.com and Lake Mburo https://rccuganda.org
Special Mention: Hospitality
- Lodge Solutions
- Gazelle Hospitality
- Whispers of the Nile
Special Mention: Innovation at the Cultural Village at the Pearl of Tourism Expo 2024
- Van Van Doch Art Studio: local artisans displayed a giant mountain gorilla made from recycled steel.
- West Nile Tourism Network: exhibited artefacts and culture, such as the porridge culinary experience.
- Kaynela Farms: mixed farming on large scale with food chain systems and BSF fly to feed chicken.
- Uganda Wildlife Education Conservation Education Centre (UWEC) waste management unit: initiative to upcycle waste material
- Kigezi Tourism Cluster: invited the Batwa minority ethnic group from the local community to dance at the expo. (They were a real hit with visitors!)
- Eco Action Uganda: created the thought-provoking elephant statue recycled from hundreds of discarded boda helmets.
Fair Trade Tourism Certification early adopters
POATE was also an opportunity to recognise the first ten “Early adopters of the journey towards Fair Trade Tourism Certification,” these being (in alphabetical order):
- Acholi Culinary Experience
- Acholi Homestay
- Bushpig Backpackers
- Karamoja Safari Camp
- Miika Eco Resort
- Morungole Eco Camp
- Muhabura Cultural Experience and Craft Centre
- Ruhija Community Rest Camp
- Timu Eco Camp
- Turaco Treetops
Making Fair Trade Tourism Certification available for Ugandan tourism and hospitality businesses is a project sponsored by Enabel. The development agency invites all eligible tourism businesses to register their interest in becoming pioneers of Fair Trade Tourism in Uganda, here. This initiative presents a unique opportunity to showcase their dedication to ethical tourism and responsible travel while opening up new market opportunities.
By recognising companies whose work directly and positively impacts communities and contributes to environmental preservation, we hope that more Ugandans will benefit from the positive influence of tourism. Through recognising exhibitors who have considered how to minimise their environmental footprint, and equitably supporting employment of Ugandans, we hope that we are setting the stage for a more sustainable tourism industry in Uganda.
“UTB will continue to promote sustainability and Fair Trade Tourism amongst its stakeholders along the value chain. Our partnership with Enabel Uganda at the Pearl of Africa Tourism Expo 2024 boosted our efforts as champions of sustainability in Uganda’s tourism sector. We must continue to position our country as a sustainable tourism destination, an intervention that requires collaboration and partnerships, like we had with Enabel.”
Lilly Ajarova, CEO, Uganda Tourism Board
Uganda has a long way to go to meet the UN’s SDGs (Sustainable Development Goals) but we believe that showcasing the companies listed here is a step in the right direction.
If you’d like to learn more about sustainable tourism in Uganda, click on the links in this blog post or send me a message. Sustainably yours, Diary of a Muzungu and colleagues.
Guide to Uganda Wildlife Authority’s fees for 2024 to 2026
Uganda Wildlife Authority Conservation Tariff (comprehensive guide to fees for park entry, primate tracking permits and more) to June 2026.
The good news is that there are very few price increases. You hardly need me to remind you how hard travel – and thus conservation revenue – has been hit during the pandemic. It’s therefore no surprise that the authorities are doing everything they can to raise money. Some might argue that we need discounts to encourage people to travel. However, given conservation’s dire finances recently, I say let’s be grateful how few price increases there are. Now let’s book that safari!
UWA’s price list covers National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees, gorilla / chimpanzee / golden monkey tracking permits, primate habituation, mountain and volcano hiking, mountain biking and boat rides on the River Nile, the Kazinga Channel and Lake Mburo – among many other activities.
A few things that the muzungu is looking forward to include:
- Hiring a boat in Toro Semliki wildlife reserve to view the Shoebill on Lake Albert.
- Kidepo Lonyilli summit hike
- Kapkwai sector of Murchison Falls National Park. (Did you know you can get free entry to Kapkwai?)
- Mount Elgon mountain biking. That must be awesome!
- Bushiyi trail extension, the shortest trail to Wagagai, the highest peak on Mount Elgon.
- Chimpanzee tracking at Ngogo (Kibale National Park) a few hundred metres from my home at Sunbird Hill
- Golden monkey habituation in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Golden monkeys are very pretty creatures!
Uganda park entry fees – Murchison Falls slight increase
Since 2022, visitors to Murchison Falls National Park have paid a little more than other protected areas. Stephen Masaba of Uganda Wildlife Authority explained to Diary of a Muzungu:
For Murchison Falls, we observed high speeding and increased road kills (especially of baboons) but have also noted littering and high levels of plastic waste. Of the number of visitors to Murchison, over 10% of these people are just in transit (crossing through the park). The slight fee increase should help curb some of these effects.
Director, Tourism and Business Development, Uganda Wildlife Authority
Although they don’t (yet) have the facilities that more established National Parks do, now might be a time to explore some of Uganda’s less visited protected areas such as Pian Upe and Katonga Wildlife Reserves.
For full details on activities not listed in the summary (game drives, nature walks, birdwatching and more) download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s full tariff for July 2024 to June 2026 here.
Planning a Uganda safari?
Did you know I have a Travel Directory full of tour operators who would love to organise a trip of a lifetime for you? Alternatively, drop me a line for travel recommendations.
Kibale National Park
Kibale Forest – home to the world’s greatest concentration of primates
Kibale Forest National Park has the world’s greatest concentration of primates and is arguably the best place in Uganda to track chimpanzees.
The 13 types of primates include the common chimpanzee, and several species of Central African monkey: the Uganda mangabey (Lophocebus ugandae), the Ugandan red colobus (Procolobus tephrosceles) and the L’Hoest’s monkey. Other primates found in Kibale Forest include Olive Baboons, the Black-and-white colobus (Colobus guereza) and the blue monkey (Cercopithecus mitis). If we add the human primates at the forest-edge, let’s make that 14 😄
Quick facts about Kibale National Park (courtesy of Uganda Wildlife Authority)
- Kibale was designated a National Park in 1993
- Conservation purpose: “To conserve Kibale National Park, a high primate species diversity habitat including its unique, threatened and endangered species especially the chimpanzees while providing ecosystem services for the development of the culturally diverse people around and beyond the borders of the park.”
- Area: 795 km
- Medium altitude tropical rainforest
- Altitude: 1,590 metres (northern tip of the park) and 1,110 metres (southern tip of the park)
- Geology: Volcanic upland region associated with Western Rift Valley pre-cambrian fracture zone subject to minor earthquake tremors.
- Soils: Red ferralitic sandy loams
- Mean annual temperature ranges from 14 C to 27 C
- Mean annual rainfall ranges from 1,100 mm to 1,700 mm
- Rainy seasons: March – May / September – December
- Dry seasons: December – February / June – August
Kibale Forest has over 375 bird species. Kibale’s forest edge is a birder’s paradise too! The forest has over 250 species of butterflies and an even greater number of moths. Listen to “Seeing the light – moths and butterlies revealed. In conversation with entomologist Dr Michael Ochse, a regular guest at Sunbird Hill.
A few of Kibale’s primates! Baboons, Chimpanzees, Black and White Colobus, Red Colobus Monkeys, Uganda Mangabey. All photos COPYRIGHT Charlotte Diary of a Muzungu.
Kibale National Park’s primates
- Home to 13 species of primates, 372 birds, 350 trees and 71 mammals
- Population of over 1,450 chimpanzees in Kibale National Park, of which there are:
- More than 13 chimpanzee communities
- Three chimpanzee research stations (Ngogo, Sebitoli and Kanyawara)
- Three habituated chimpanzee communities (two research groups and one group for tourists to visit). Chimp tracking starts at Uganda Wildlife Authority’s Kanyanchu base on the southern side of Kibale Forest
- Two semi-habituated chimpanzee communities (Sebitoli research group and Buraiga tourism group).
- UPDATE 2024. A third family is being habituated for tourism.
The 13 primate species of Kibale National Park
Chimpanzee, Olive Baboon, Red-tailed monkey, Black and white colobus monkey, Red colobus monkey, Blue monkey, L’Hoest monkey, Vervet Monkey, Uganda Mangabey, Thomas’s Galago, Eastern / Elegant Needle-clawed Galago, Demidoff’s Galago and Potto.
Activities in the Kibale area
A few km outside the park boundary, Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary is habitat for 138 bird species and numerous primates that are arguably easier to see (and photograph) than in the forest. The boardwalk through Magombe Swamp is well worth a visit! KAFRED offers Bigodi’s original swamp walk and has trained most of the local guides. The benefits of doing the swamp walk with KAFRED is that profits go directly to the community.
Scattered around Kibale and the town of Fort Portal are a collection of pretty crater lakes and hills. Some of Uganda’s best lodges sit on hills overlooking such lakes.
Kibale Forest edge proved to be the most wonderful place to spend lockdown and the inspiration for the East Africa Travel Podcast.
Yes! Travelers vote Uganda “Best Safari Country”
You read it right! 1000s of travelers and SafariBookings experts agree
For those of us who live in this insanely beautiful corner of the world, it’s no surprise to read that Uganda has just been rated “Africa’s best safari country by travelers.” This is the result of a survey by SafariBookings, the continent’s biggest online platform for tour operators and safari companies.
This remarkable performance takes into account a whole range of categories, from wildlife and scenic beauty to birding and bush credentials. Uganda was also the clear winner when it comes to Africa’s best birding-safari country, as voted by the experts.
Uganda clearly has reason to be optimistic about future surveys, as they’re hot on the heels of the current top three. Watch this space…
SafariBookings‘ verdict on Uganda as a safari destination. SafariBookings is the world’s largest resource and leading authority for planning an African safari. They check the registration papers of all tour operators, and have 92,471 traveler reviews written by people like you.
What the experts say about Uganda
We know Philip Briggs as the author of the Uganda Bradt Guide, the country’s best-known guidebook. I interviewed Briggs in Uganda. He also writes for SafariBookings.
In the same survey, SafariBookings travel experts rank Uganda as Africa’s best birding safari destination!
If you’ve been reading Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know that I love birds. Birds send my heart a flutter is a collection of some of my Uganda birdwatching stories.
New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😁🦍🌳🦁 links to popular pages and the most useful resources.
Top things to do in Kampala [UPDATED]
What’s on in Kampala?
Visitors to Uganda are often driven straight upcountry, away from the congested capital. That’s understandable since the country’s main draw are the National Parks. Also, since most visitors live in towns, you can understand they don’t find the idea of a busy city appealing. Kampala is where the crime is – like cities the world over – yet it’s dynamic (and I always feel a sense of excitement as I approach the city). Many now realise we have underestimated Kampala’s attractions and in 2022 Uganda Tourism Board opened a tourism information office in the grounds of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel.
Kampala – affectionately known by some as KLA – is a great place to live. This crazy, noisy, congested city can drive you nuts at times but there’s always something going on. Eh! I hardly know where to start…
What’s for breakfast in Kampala?
Okay, let’s start the day with coffee. Cappuccino is my personal weakness, and can now easily – although not cheaply – be found in most of Kampala’s major shopping centres, big hotels and urban areas. Some of my favourite coffee shops in Kampala include Coffee at Last in Makindye; Endiro at numerous locations (some run by deaf staff); Le Petit Village at Quality Hill on Ggaba Road, Café Kawa in Tank Hill, Muyenga and Café Pap in Parliament Avenue and Ntinda. The Southside Market at Dancing Cup in Bugolobi is a popular Saturday hang-out. CJ’s (Cafe Java’s) – at various locations – always have excellent service (and large portions, especially during Ramadan). These also serve African tea.
What’s the perfect accompaniment to morning coffee? Croissants (yes!) or beef sambosas (samosas) and of course the number one Ugandan delicacy, the famous rolex! (“Rolled eggs” omelette in a chapati). Katogo (steamed savoury banana with beans or meat) is a popular Ugandan breakfast. I love it! (Unless it contains ‘gizzards’). Yuck.
Coffee / tea break over, Kampala’s markets are excellent. There’s a market for everything but you have to be ready for haggle. Expat tip: go with a Ugandan friend, unless you want to pay ‘muzungu price’ for every other thing.
Fancy a spot of shopping?
Popular Kampala markets are Nakasero (fruit, vegetables, spices and grasshoppers) and Nakawa (everything – and slightly cheaper than the markets in town). I love Ggaba market on the edge of Lake Victoria. It’s a great place to pick up brightly coloured Tanzanian cloth (as well as all your fruit and vegetables, the cheapest mukenne and other fish, fresh or dried). (The maze-like Owino was once Kampala’s best place for second-hand clothing, shoes and bags; the packed and chaotic downtown is still the best place for all kinds of bargains).
If you’re into arts and crafts and souvenir shopping, head to the extensive ‘Daisy Arcade’ craft market on Buganda Road. There are a small number of craft shops behind the National Theatre too.
Feeling arty?
Kampala has a small but thriving art scene and most exhibitions are free. The best way to find out what’s going on is to follow them on social media. Kampala art galleries include Nommo Gallery, Afriart Gallery on Seventh Street (in the Industrial Area) and Umoja. The Uganda Museum has occasional art shows, in addition to the permanent historic displays. The museum is very dated but still has a certain appeal. It’s definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have a guided tour. Kampala’s Alliance Francaise and Goethe Institute always have a busy timetable of events.
The National Theatre in central Kampala has a programme of dance, drama and art. There are regular shows, films, dance classes and jam sessions. The best way to find out what’s on at the National Theatre is to visit in person or look for their monthly flyer.
The National Theatre was the original venue for the annual Bayimba Festival. Bayimba has since moved to Lunkulu Island on Lake Victoria.
Experience Uganda through music and dance!
The Ndere Troupe’s show is the perfect introduction to Uganda for new visitors, but honestly everyone should watch this brilliant show, more than once! The highly professional Ndere Troupe is a must-see celebration of Uganda and Africa – through traditional music and dance on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday nights. The Ndere Centre is on Kampala’s Northern Bypass. Read my blog about Ndere’s sensational musical and cultural experience.
Did you know, Kampala has the best nightlife in East Africa?
Don’t take my word for it, dive into Kampala’s nightlife! My friends from Nairobi love this party city. Downtown Kabalagala is famous from here to Kigali (Rwanda) to Goma (DRC) to Bujumbura (Burundi) and Dar (Tanzania) – and every part of East Africa in between.
Move over Acacia Avenue and Muyenga: Kisementi and Bugolobi are Kampala’s more popular nightspots these days with new bars and restaurants opening all the time. Kampala’s top hotels have Christmas programmes, New Year parties, fireworks, live music and more. Ugandans love to party anywhere! Every neighbourhood has several bars. If you like your beer cheap, just sit on a wooden bench outside your local shop. Local ‘pork joints’ are usually good value for money too (unless you’re a vegetarian of course!)
Kampala’s Industrial Area has the city’s best known nightclubs: Guvnors and Ange Noir, but you don’t need to go to a nightclub to dance. Have a few drinks and we will dance anywhere in UG!
Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix, although Kampala has 100s of cafes serving excellent coffee now).
As for getting to all these great places safely, the muzungu is a big fan of “ride hailing apps.” In 2022, Lolo was my new favourite; SafeBoda now provide cars as well as bodas. Uber and Bolt may have been first but they lost the plot during the fuel crisis, with driver after driver doubling the fees. Driving in Kampala is a favourite (tongue in cheek) blog.
Prefer to walk?
Are you interested in history and architecture? The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda has launched a book, maps and a *free* mobile phone app all about Entebbe, Jinja and Kampala’s historical buildings. It’s a fun way to tour the three towns. Read History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a free mobile app.
This page is work in progress – it merely skims the surface of Kampala!
Looking for more thngs to do in Kampala? Send me a message!
Uganda for beginners – introduction for new expats [UPDATED]
If you’re planning to move to the Pearl of Africa, you’re bound to fall in love with Ugandans’ infectious enthusiasm for life. In an InterNations survey of expats living in 191 countries, Uganda received the highest marks for friendliness.
Ugandans welcome people of all nationalities; it is an intrinsic part of their culture. The ability to speak English widely offers visitors a huge advantage but it’s the wonderful welcomes and smiles that make this place accessible. One of my first bits of advice from a fellow Brit was: “You’ll get used to Ugandans staring at you. Don’t be intimidated. Just smile and they will return the most dazzling smile.”
It’s true.
Ugandans love talking about Premier league football, politics and how much they drank the night before. Ugandans love to party. Conversely, Ugandans are also avid church (or mosque) goers and very ‘God-fearing.’
Read my most popular blog 50 reasons why I love Uganda.
Introducing Kampala, the capital of Uganda
Set on the edge of Lake Victoria, the world’s second largest freshwater lake, Kampala is named after the Impala, who were once abundant on the city’s historic Seven Hills. These days the city covers more than twenty hills and, to see an Impala, you now have to travel to Lake Mburo National Park, three hours to the west.
Kampala nightlife is legendary across the region and the city is a great place to work, network and socialise. The expat community is welcoming and diverse. There is a great range of clubs, activities and restaurants.
Kampala is a great base for weekends away on safari, white water rafting or just chilling at a lodge with a wonderful view. Heavy traffic, sometimes potholed roads and bad drivers are some of the downsides to life in Kampala. When it’s hot, tempers fray!
“Muzungu how are you?” Life as an expat in Uganda
Expats can’t escape being called “Muzungu,” meaning lost or confused (from the Swahili). Apparently this is how the first white people looked when we first arrived in East Africa. Read the full definition here What is a Muzungu?
“Bazungu” (plural) and white people generally are made to feel welcome, thanks to the good work of the European doctors, teachers and missionaries of the nineteenth century. In Uganda, knowing a white person is perceived to be a good thing, as we arrive with the possible offers of jobs, sponsorship and connections. Expats do get regular requests for work, school fees, the ubiquitous ‘sponsorship’ and occasionally cash. Ugandans are very polite so will ask nicely. It’s okay to say no.
My blog Are muzungus all rich? is one of my most popular reads.
Expat conversations often revolve around complaints about the potholed roads, the naughty traffic policemen, and being overcharged for things on the street. It’s unavoidable: as a Muzungu, you are perceived to have money, even when you feel you are penniless.
What language do you speak in Uganda?
Uganda is home to 56 ethnic groups and their languages. Luganda is the language of the Ganda people of Buganda, mostly resident in Greater Kampala. This is the language you will hear spoken most often in Kampala. The lingua franca of Uganda is English. (Phew – I’m in luck!)
More important than the language you speak is the manner in which you greet people. Greetings are hugely important in building relationships, as is the time to acknowledge people, particularly those of status. Take the time to say “How are you?” even if you are in a hurry.
It is quite common to start a meeting with a prayer (so have a couple of lines ready!) Equally, it is common for expat visitors to be asked to make an impromptu speech at a meeting. You may be invited to a number of weddings as the guest of honour! Be prepared to sit. And sit. (At the last wedding reception I attended, I sat through four hours of speeches in local language before the alcohol appeared. Meaning? Ugandan weddings are quite different to British ones!)
What’s the weather like in Uganda?
Uganda’s position on the Equator means we benefit from an unbelievably beautiful climate; most days are sunny with blue skies. Even when it does rain, the sun quickly dries up the puddles.
Southern Uganda, and borders of Lake Victoria, are generally wetter, with rains generally spread throughout the year. Here most rain falls from March to June and during the shorter rainy seasons of November and December. The effects of climate change mean seasons have become blurred but you can normally look out of the window and decide whether you need to take an umbrella to work that day. Sunshine is never very far away. Think UK – but the opposite!
The country comes to a halt when it rains, and everybody hides inside. After the rain stops, expect mega-traffic jams. Kampala is a busy and often chaotic city especially if you’re rushing to a meeting and get stuck in traffic for an hour. Have a good car radio, always have airtime on your phone and have a newspaper to hand so you don’t feel you’re wasting those precious minutes. Even better, get someone else to drive or work from home. It’s a good idea to live near where you work or agree to work from home sometimes.
Driving in Kampala – not for the nervous is a tongue-in-cheek blog by a fellow expat.
Uber launched in Kampala to the ire of the overpriced taxi drivers and the boda boda (motorbike) drivers. I had always found “private hire” taxis in Kampala too expensive but Uber, Bolt, Lolo and SafeCar charge a third of what traditional taxi drivers charge. Uber Uganda also has bodas on their app but SafeBoda is by far the best option in 2024. Since the pandemic, many of the drivers on the ride hailing apps are overcharging. In my experience, SafeBoda is the most transparent (and cheapest) way to travel across town. However, a car ride is always going to be the safest transport option.
Read How to ride a boda boda before you jump on that motorbike!
Healthcare in Uganda. Beware the Travellers’ Health Book! Tropical disease diary
The provision of healthcare can be hit and miss. Local clinics and pharmacies can offer you the best advice on tropical medicine, but beware out of date drugs.
Regular health check-ups are advised, particularly for bilharzia (which you may catch in Lake Victoria or the River Nile). Beware of malaria (we don’t all have the same symptoms). Expats usually buy private health insurance which is not particularly expensive.
Read my Uganda travel advice I ignored including How to avoid Malaria and How to avoid Bilharzia. Need expert tropical medicine advice for you and your family? Follow my “Ask the Doc” series for interviews with Dr Natalie Prevatt.
What’s on in Kampala?
Kampala is developing at breakneck pace – and there’s always plenty (too much!) to do. Many expats rely on word of mouth recommendations from friends and colleagues. Online information is slowly improving, particularly through Facebook and WhatsApp groups. I promote festivals and other events on my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page. X (Twitter) is a good place to find out what’s on too.
There are many ways to meet fellow expats in Kampala. You will quickly find familiar faces. Generally, expats and Ugandans mix easily, but sometimes you just need to talk someone from back home who ‘gets you’ without having to navigate the cultural differences. Kampala has the friendliness of the village, but village life can be a bit oppressive sometimes. Wherever you go, you will bump into people you know – even upcountry!
The overwhelming majority of visitors to Uganda love the place. Many of us extend our contracts; some of us decide to settle here. Mixed race relationships are common and I share some of my experiences here in How to date a Ugandan.
Enjoy the best nightlife in East Africa!
Kampala is a party city. Every bar plays loud music and it’s quite common to dance all night at your local bar. There are no particular bar opening hours; many are open all day and all night – you can always find a drink in Kampala.
Very few Ugandans smoke, and culturally, it is frowned upon. That said, few people would complain if you light up. Although it is illegal to smoke in many places, it is rarely enforced. Virtually all clubs and restaurants are outside, or at least have an outdoor section, so you can usually smoke where you like. Cigarettes are very cheap so expat smokers are very happy here!
Most people will tell you they find Kampala a safe city, however, don’t leave your phone on the table while you’re chatting in a café and be careful of your possessions when you are in busy bars (as in most cities).
Technology in Uganda. Staying in touch with the things and people you care about
Access to the Internet is improving all the time in Uganda so Skyping, WhatsApping and Zooming with friends and family back home is a doddle.
These days, your boda boda driver and your house girl have a mobile phone. They may even have a phone that looks better than yours. (Beware cheap Chinese or Indian phones in Uganda. Many are fake so do shop around carefully).
Free WiFi is common these days but you can’t beat the convenience of your own personal – and fast – connection.
Not so long ago, banking and payments involved a lot of physical effort. We paid for everything with cash, waited in line at the bank to withdraw money using a chequebook and drove long distances to pay bills. On my first trip to a Kampala bank, I watched a customer stuff wads of banknotes into his socks before he left the building! Now, you can pay for almost anything via your phone, by linking your online bank account to one of Uganda’s mobile money systems. It’s so easy! Although European banks have had online banking for a long time, few are linked with mobile phone technology yet. Come to East Africa to see how it works! I use mobile money to buy internet data and pay bills. Most of us regularly send or receive cash using these systems. (In Kenya, the M-Pesa system is used in almost every shop and bar).
As for computers, Computer Facilities in Kamwokya have saved my bacon more than once! Two laptop hard drives have died on me but it’s very reassuring to know that they can (almost always) recover the data. Computer Facilities develop bespoke network infrastructure solutions for large companies. Their client list is a ‘who’s who’ of the corporate world in UG and across East Africa.
What about old-fashioned snail mail? Does Kampala have a Post Office?
International delivery companies exist but there is also a Post Office on Kampala Road. I learned that a trip to the Post Office is a good indicator of how you’re getting to grips with life in Uganda.
Back in my VSO volunteer days, I was a regular visitor to the Post Office. Read “The cheque’s in the post ….” apparently.
Last but not least, expats share their advice and experiences in Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]
What’s your advice for living in Kampala? If you’re planning a move to Uganda, what other questions do you have?
Uganda travel health tips [UPDATED]
Planning a trip to Uganda? Read my travel and health tips for tourists and new expats
Are you looking for advice before travelling to Uganda?
Are you flying into Uganda? Here are the Latest health rules for Entebbe International Airport [UPDATED].
Are you moving to Uganda to work or volunteer? Read Uganda for beginners – introduction for new expats.
Everyone has questions about tourist visas. I frequently update How to buy Ugandan tourist visas and often answer readers’ questions.
One of the first things you’ll want to know when you travel to Uganda is how to call home. It’s certainly a lot easier than it was. Read the Muzungu’s tips for calling home from Uganda.
Uganda is a fantastic country to travel to and live in but, if it’s your first time in sub Saharan Africa, you’ll probably have a few health-related questions. Read my tongue-in-cheek guide the Uganda travel advice I ignored. Here you can read the Muzungu’s personal tips on:
- How to avoid Bilharzia
- How to avoid Malaria
- How to ride a boda boda (motorbike)
- How to drive in Kampala
- – and even how to date a Ugandan!
Are you looking for tropical or travel health advice? In our “Ask the Doc” series, Dr Natalie Prevatt advises travelers coming to Uganda. You can read our Yellow Fever FAQs here.
Please leave a comment or question here. I’d love to hear from you! Contact the Muzungu here.
Trunk call: Jim Nyamu walks across East Africa to protect elephants
Have you heard about Jim Justus Nyamu’s cross-continental walks? Read about Ivory Belongs to Elephants’ East-Central Africa campaign walk
An amazing feat! 🐘 (Or should I say feet?) 👣
Jim campaigns tirelessly to protect elephants. He’s walked 1000s of miles / km and this is his 16th Campaign Walk for Elephants. His aim: to encourage African nations to work closely to protect this species that knows no borders.
Jim Justus Nyamu, *OGW, is the Founder and Executive Director of the Elephant Neighbors Center, a non-profit whose mission is “to protect the African Elephant and secure landscapes for elephants outside protected areas.” The brand Ivory Belongs to Elephants™ focuses on raising awareness locally, nationally, and internationally of the plight of African Elephants, primarily through their advocacy walks.
The East-Central Africa walk started in Nairobi, Kenya, on July 29th and passed through Nakuru, Mau Forest, Tinderet, Kakamega and Malaba (Mount Elgon). In Uganda, Jim walked through Mabira Forest, Kampala, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mbarara, Lake Mburo and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; now in Rwanda, Jim will visit Kigali, and Akagera National Park; and onto Goma, Virunga National Park, Okapi Wildlife Reserve, and Garamba National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. This four-month walk will cover approximately 3,200 km. The walks offer solutions to mitigating human-wildlife conflict and highlight the direct importance of wildlife to affected communities.
This most iconic of African species is being pushed towards extinction – slaughtered by poachers to supply a worldwide ivory trade worth up to US$20 billion a year. Despite a ban in many countries, the killing is only getting worse. There are now estimated to be only 350,000 elephants left in Africa, with approximately 20,000 being killed every year. African elephants will be extinct in our lifetime if this rate of loss continues.
Ivory belongs to elephants press release
Elephants are crucial in:
- dispersing seeds +
- keeping the habitat open for grazing animals +
- fighting climate change by contributing to natural carbon capture +
- attracting millions of tourists who make substantial contributions to sub-Saharan Africa’s economies +
- so much more!
Jim and his team have been walking to raise awareness since 2013. By the end of the current campaign, they will have walked almost 20,000 km across Africa, the United States, and the UK, connecting with over 16,000 schools, and holding over 900 community meetings along the the campaign walks.
Jim also walks in the US and Europe to raise awareness in international communities that are still trading in ivory. For example, despite the 2018 announcement of the UK government’s plans to ban sale and export of most ivory items, the trade in ivory and live elephants is still legal in several countries.
If you see Jim, why not join the walk for an hour or even a day? 👣
Better still, you can support the team on the ground by making a donation. (I know how grim it is to try and sleep in a soggy tent!)
You can send directly to Jim Justus Nyamu via Momo +256 784755115 or Mpesa +254 713353060 or donate on the Ivory belongs to elephants gofundme page. Find out more on the Ivory belongs to elephants on Facebook.
(*OGW is the Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya is an award presented to individuals in recognition of an outstanding service rendered to the country).
