Diary of a Muzungu meets some of Uganda’s unsung heroes of primate tracking: the human protectors of the country’s gorillas and chimpanzees
“BIG UPS” to the rangers and porters who look after visitors + wildlife + wild spaces across Uganda!
Last week I tracked the Posho family of gorillas 🦍🦍🦍 in Nkuringo, southern Bwindi. What a magical day – a very entertaining Silverback and five fluffy bundles of baby gorilla were just a few of the day’s highlights.
We had a professional welcome at the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s reservations office in Nkuringo, not to mention lively singing, dancing 🎶 and tons of info during our briefing.
If you’re tracking gorillas or hiking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, make sure you have more drinking water than you think you need. It’s easy to get dehydrated (I know, I have done it!) so bring two litres. Hire a porter, such as Eunice, pictured. She was very helpful. Not only did she carry my bag but she held my hand when we got to the steep, slippery bits! (We did both nearly end up in the water while crossing a river at one point!) We both giggled.
Thank you to UWA, Abaho, Levi, and Eunice for a perfect day in the forest 🌳🌳🌳
There is plenty to do in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, a protected tropical rainforest and UNESCO World Heritage Site. The half-day walk through the forest between Nkuringo and Buhoma is magic! Read my account of Hiking the Ivy Trail with Nkuringo Safaris’ expert guides.
It’s one hell of a drive on the bumpy mountain roads from Buhoma (north of Bwindi) to Ruhija, Rushaga and Nkuringo (to the south west) but the Muzungu did it!
What a gorgeous day for a drive. Round every corner appeared staggering views of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest: ancient trees covered the steep hillsides. Bejewelled bee-eaters and African emerald green cuckoos flashed across the road.
Another favourite destination is Kanyanchu visitor centre in Kibale Forest 🌳🐒 🐘 three quarters of an hour’s walk from my home at Sunbird Hill. I checked in with UWA as part of my research for Fodor’s Travel.
I love the random encounters with friends, Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers such as Benson (pictured) and Alex (who gave the pre-tracking briefing to chimpers), and guides from Kampala. It’s always interesting to listen in on tourist conversations too! Kibale Cafe, adjacent to UWA’s Kanyanchu visitor centre is a vocational training cafe for the local community. They make a great cappuccino 🙂
Did you know? UWA are habituating a third group of chimpanzees in Kibale Forest
The Dura group of chimps are named after a river that runs through this glorious tropical rainforest.
I’ve written extensively about gorilla tracking in Bwindi and Mgahinga and chimp tracking in Kibale Forest here on Diary of a Muzungu. In addition to updating the Complete Guide to the African Safari on behalf of Fodor’s Travel, I’m also recording a podcast episode about my favourite places. Expect plenty of insider info 😉
What’s next for the East Africa Travel Podcast & Blog by Diary of a Muzungu?
Production of Season 2 of the East Africa Travel Podcast by Diary of a Muzungu is in full swing. Chimpanzees have been regular guests; their PANT HOOTS and buttress drumming are regularly heard from my wooden house at Sunbird Hill. Some of season one’s expert primatologists include “self-confessed gorillaholic” Ian Redmond OBE, Professor Richard Wrangham (famous for his work with Kibale’s chimps) and the Nnaabagareka of Buganda, patron of Conservation Through Public Health, who work closely with gorillas. You can listen to the first 20 episodes of the podcast here and on all podcast directories. I always love your feedback. 😄
How can I help you?
Start your journey < here > with travel inspiration, useful resources (travel health, tourist visas, National Park entry fees, Travel Directory and more, all regularly updated). As always, feel free to contact the Muzungu.
