First days in Nam’ – a lesson in Luganda

Talk about “Deepest Darkest Africa!”

No electricity (or hot water or internet) for first three nights in Namuwongo, Kampala.

Cooked and showered by candlelight (it’s dark here by 7 pm) and no chance to unpack first night, so wandered around in the dark, not knowing what was where, mosquitoes screeching in my ears.

No credit on Ugandan mobile phone and UK phone one not working.

It’s probably good that I can’t see what I’m eating (some tomato and egg combination).

Battle against insects

So much for conservation: anything with more than 4 legs must die.

My Luganda phrase book is coming in more useful than thought: its dead mosquito-scarred cover is testament to a few long evenings with nothing else to do!

I have enjoyed giving the mozzies a Lesson in Luganda – THWACK!

Drums and singing took my mind off mozzies for a moment. The sound was captivating. The village is a hundred yards or so away and with all the windows open sound was coming from every direction, it was like being in a dream.

fixing mosquito net frame
My colleagues Patrick and Simpson fixing mosquito net to the bedframe for me

Africa!

“The people they are welcoming you. Did you hear them?”

Simpson asked me.

Tried writing some of my diary by candlelight too but was getting dive bombed by a mosquito every two minutes.

It’s bloody relentless. Retired to sanctuary of mozzie net for the night …

Introducing Johnny and Julie… my four-legged mosquito-munching house guests.

Salvation! Geckos in the house!

house gecko on skirting board
house gecko loves mosquitoes!

Just hope they’re hungry – for mosquitoes…

I’m just going to have to get used to the sound of mosquitoes. Thought I was clever bringing earplugs with me but I can still hear the ba**ards with them in! Must’ve killed ten mosquitoes tonight…

Welcome to Namuwongo

Can’t believe I have only been here in Namuwongo one week!

Rain is now coming down hard, outside the internet cafe in Namuwongo, essentially a large village outside the city of Kampala. It’s like the West Indies 20+ years ago, poor, very dusty and ramshackle, banana palms and colourful shacks. I feel very welcome and not a hint of trouble (I’m the only muzungu it seems).

Tried calling home but mobile won’t work at the moment and no elec (and therefore internet or hot water) in new home since Friday. Can send and receive texts but will keep them short / few as not sure how much they cost yet.

Mozzies have been annoying but I’m living with it and no ‘You Know Whats’** in the house tho a big one did fly onto my plate as I ate out one night! I am being very grown up about it tho.

It’s been great to have Simpson (the gate boy) around this w/end. He’s between school and uni, just saving up for his fees. What a lovely young man he is, very tall and dark with fine elegant features and beautiful manners, so charming and helpful. He has kept me sane actually in my battle with the mozzies. They have been relentless! Luckily I also have Johnny and Julie (house lizards) on my side.

Settling in well tho I know Patrick (UCF Project Officer) has been getting v stressed about the (lack of) electricity situation. Simpson seems to think it’ll be back on Monday for the week. I didn’t expect anything to be fixed over the w/end so am taking it ‘mpola mpola’ (slowly) and slowing down my expectations.

I recognised Patrick as soon as I saw him.

Our Luganda lessons had taught us the importance of formality so I was taken aback when he gave me a big bear hug!!

I used my few words of Luganda to great effect when we arrived at the house / office; I held out my hand and said ‘osiibye otya’ (good afternoon) and Enid and Sophie went crazy, screaming for a good five minutes. I thought Enid was going to expire! It was so funny and a tremendous welcome.

Eva (the house girl) made my room look very pretty and welcoming and I know everyone has been putting a lot of effort into sorting out the office and making me feel welcome too.

**cockroach

Touchdown in Africa – a letter home

Am writing from a really grubby internet cafe on the main road outside Kampala. We took a half hour walk thru the village to get here, all the kids shouting ‘Mzungu mzungu, bye!’ and waving at us. It was great fun.

Poverty is everywhere though: stalls just selling 4 tomatoes and a bunch of plantain, four people on a motorbike, enormous potholes and rubbish everywhere. My old colleagues at Laing Roads and the Waste team would have a field day here!

Had my first power cut last night – disappointingly short!! (The novelty will wear off I know).

This week we 12 new VSO volunteers are staying in relative luxury in Lweza outside Kampala in a religious conference centre. The reception area displays a calendar showing faces of all the Ugandan bishops (a must-have item for 2010 I think).

Today I had my first Luganda lesson, it was so much fun. Everything here is done with a smile on your face. Isla and I sat under the banda (like a bandstand) next to the ten feet high bamboo, watching the monkeys go by! We are learning to take life mpola mpola (slowly by slowly)…

Ugandans are so friendly and welcoming, so not the stereotype you see on TV of Africans (ignore typos, keyboard is heavy with red dust!)

I love Uganda already.

Induction very interesting.  I’m bonding with some great volunteers. VSO are very good at getting us to connect and set up our own support network over here. About 30 VSO volunteers in Kampala, so life should be fun. Met British Consul yesterday so am already networking too 🙂

Food is pretty crap but no big bug scares yet.

Traditional dancers at Ndere Cultural Centre, Kampala
The traditional dancing at Ndere Cultural Centre, Kampala, blew me away. What a welcome! Photo courtesy of my friend Stephen Legg

First night went to African drum and dance show at the Ndere Cultural Centre. It was superb. I had to pinch myself – “I’m in Africa! At last!”

Even when I was on the plane I was obsessed with ramming my bags into the smallest cubby hole possible, trying to economise with every bit of available space. I kept saying to myself: “I can’t believe the months of packing (my flat / my possessions that are in storage / the stuff to bring to Uganda) are finally over!”

Gym and running have been non-existent this past month and the Ugandan diet threatens to turn me into a Big Mama very quickly (choice of 4 carbs for lunch!) Or was I supposed to eat all 4 of them? That said, maybe I’ll take up African dancing (‘the men aren’t bad looking’ as Michele will say!)

Meet my new colleagues at the Uganda Conservation Foundation on friday when we all move to our long-term accommodation. Hope to catch up with everyone more then. Don’t forget to drop me a line, one and all!

To read more about why I first came to Uganda, read The Story so Far

Are you planning to volunteer in Uganda? Are you a VSO?

Do you have any other Uganda travel tips you’d like to share?

Please leave a comment here or contact me directly if you have any questions. I’d love to hear from you!

Yikes!

God I’m sick of packing

Just when I thought I was getting my head round it late last night, remembered that I have 1 week induction so need to keep that stuff separate from everything else. The packing is easy enough, it’s the imagining what I may or may not need, what goes with what / fits right, is within weight allowance AGHHHH! It is total brain damage.

Couldn’t lift another thing last night, felt weird after taking first anti-malarial too, then couldn’t sleep either so got up again, cleaned the bathroom and collapsed into the mattress at 1.30am – and then I hear my neighbours above me! Somehow drifted off and – would you believe it? – had another dream about sodding packing … Despite little sleep, the piles look smaller this morning and it all seems do-able.

And then I remember why I’m putting myself thru this hell – off to Kampala tomorrow! People were asking me yesterday whether I’m excited and kind of had to be reminded why I’m doing all of this! 

Am so looking fwd to being on that plane. Listen out for the ZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ over Heathrow tomorrow evening.

Four days to go … leaving home for Uganda

The lists, the goodbyes, the packing!

Feeling groggy today, the running around + farewell drinks + no time for the gym have finally caught up with me .. that or being surrounded by everyone with the lurgy!!

Last morning at mum and dad’s house – or Cotswold Strategic Command Centre for Removal of Daughter to Uganda as Ma calls it – for a long time; the cat has been sick (missing me already of course) and there’s a dead mouse in one of the mouse traps. Put all my stuff (clothes, books etc) from London in roof above kitchen only to hear there are mice up there! O well too late to worry about it now. What’s the betting I don’t miss most of what’s in there anyway. Down in the kitchen late the other night and heard a ruckus in the cereal cupboard (and found mice poo in the Rice Krispies next day!) My life seems to be heading in a certain direction now and it’s closely related to the back end of wild animals!

Random update since my last blog:

  • Packed up all possessions in London flat. Dad hired a van and helped me load it. How I thought I could slip out of the flats unnoticed was just pure fantasy!
  • Left flat in god almighty state returning later today for spring clean and er…. actual packing of stuff for Uganda.
  • Had really been enjoying downsizing. Out of date supplies have surpassed all previous records. Found at the back of the cupboard: best before December 1996 that’s a record for out of date supplies. Ha ha.
  • In January the monsters Sue (Alpha) and Nick (Trailer Park Trash) came to town. When they headed Back Up North, I loaded them up with plants, and carrier bags full of (Nick later tells me) out-of-date herbs and spices. Ahem!
  • My kitchen clock (covered in fruit stickers) is off to France chez le pere de Pattie. Had many hours of fun putting that together. I’m pleased to have found a nice new home for it 😉
  • Spent an hour with Tom and Betty in the village. They’re very involved with Habitat for Humanity, twinned this village with one in Sri Lanka and fundraised and helped rebuild homes for 35 people after the tsunami. Their daughter Buffy lives in Namibia and Tom asked me “will you be coming back from the Dark Continent? People seem to go there he said and not want to return …” They’re both very excited for me, I feel very flattered.
  • Ma bought me a ‘Silverback’ umbrella. Had to laugh as that’s a type of gorilla I may see in Uganda. Actually it’s a solar umbrella (modern parasol) but I may have just as much rain as sun in Uganda, it’s quite lush. Idea was thanks to Kate, a gadget freak like my sister!! X x
  • Met Brian and Bob who showed me the Content Management System for the UCF web site. “Just tell me it isn’t RedDot!” I said [apologies, in-joke for Laing Techies!] Actually it was dead easy to use. UCF Founder and contacts seem to be ex-Forces. I’m going to meet quite an eclectic bunch of people in Uganda, I can’t wait!
  • Had an hour to kill on way back from meeting Brian and Bob before meeting with Mike Keigwin (new boss and Founder of UCF). Thought about stopping in Kings X for one last hour before heading to Baron’s Court. Dave grew up round Kings X and his dad worked on the station. Mike lives in Baron’s Court. Time to move on – “we’re only going forward” as Michele would say so I trotted off to Baron’s Court and had half a Guinness in the local pub while waiting. Ran through the contract Uncle Tony has done for me to sublet my flat, now all done and dusted. Couldn’t hear much in the pub. Thanks for your patience Tony and for all your support.

Plan for next few days includes:

  • A few more goodbyes (I’m in Victoria on thursday to see a couple of the Laing guys)
  • Do inventory of flat
  • Last injection (number 11 I think! Or is that 14?)
  • Introduce Michele to Rob and give him my front door key.
  • Hair cut – ok trim then, don’t panic! lol
  • Spend god knows how much on toiletries, basic first aid kit etc
  • Fit the whole damn lot into 3 x 23 kg, a massive amount of baggage compared to VSO minimum (just 1 bag) so shouldn’t be too difficult (she says….)
  • Give Michele, mum, dad and Sarah the BIGGEST of hugs
  • Not cry too much at the airport

Leaving London – bye bye old life

Last week at work in London and lots of goodbyes. All v exciting getting so much attention – am going to miss all these hugs and easy contact … it’s just so easy to pick up the phone and talk to friends and family whenever I want to, am really going to be relying on this blog to keep in contact with you all! And please email me, I want to know how you all are as well.

Lots of fun in meeting room 11 (aka the Stage Door pub) followed by obligatory trip to the Stag (late night gay bar in Victoria!) – it all went a bit hazy after that … but I did find a pastie wrapper in my handbag the next morning so I guess I did have dinner after all!

Woke up late (with my skirt on!) Friday morning. God I haven’t felt that chronic for years. Could not face the Tube. So last day at work, decided to take a minicab – only for driver to choose route over all the speed bumps … ! Nearly left my stomach behind more than once…

Really enjoyed my leaving presentation – mine, Anja’s and Peter’s. Had been dreading mine for months, until VSO training last week when I just had to get on with it and talk in front of groups of people a few times. “It’s now or never” and I decided it was stupid to worry about everyone gathering round my desk and staring at me (!), it was my moment after all.

Forgot to tell everyone about my first project in Uganda – collecting elephant dung – no shit! Really, UCF are collecting it, running a DNA analysis and mapping it on a database. Then when ivory is confiscated in China for ex, its origin can be traced and poachers tracked down. Cool eh? But talk about getting your hands dirty from the off!

I was really touched by Anja’s words. I really enjoyed working with her, Sam, Steve and Ana, I learned so much and we had lots of fun. I was with the Bid Proposals Team for exactly one year and absolutely loved the bubble wrap fanfare!!! They’ve designed me a fab card and my very own ‘dooberyflip’ too (explanation to follow …!)

Laing Roads team 2009. Charlotte's leaving photo

I treasure this photo. Julie got our old team – Laing Roads – together for this surprise photo

Peter (Couldery) didn’t embarrass me nearly as much as he could have done! I hear Monika supplied him with plenty of ammunition tho!! It was a bit of a This is Your Life moment but I enjoyed remembering all the projects I’ve been involved in and I felt quite humbled by what he said about my involvement in CSR and ‘living my values.’ When I look back on it, I’ve learned so much at Laing and had some great opportunities (travelling to Norway and Finland, all the CSR projects, my Chartered Institute of Marketing qualification, running my first 5 km!) I like Peter, he interviewed me five years ago and I’ve worked closely with him, hence I asked him to do my presentation. Thanks Peter!

Haven’t had a chance to read all the messages in my leaving card yet, want to take a quiet moment to do that this w/end.

Three weeks to go!

The last four days training with Voluntary Service Overseas have been fantastic, so involving. We’ve all learned so much. Have met some interesting and useful contacts, that include:

  • Alex who worked in Kenya with Kenya Wildlife Service.
  • His partner Lucy who works in Natural Resource Management.
  • Celia who is going to Namibia. Her ex was in Kenya and is doing a Phd in elephant behaviour.

All 18 of us + the tutors have got on great, such a supportive atmosphere and no-one’s afraid to speak their mind. Everyone has an interesting story (or three!) to tell, I’ve loved every minute of this week.

Sleeping in a single bed has been OK! Seemed far too small when I got in but actually very cosy.

Realise this morning that we have been living in a bubble (no TV, no radio) – headlines in paper talk of wildcat strikes all round Britain and I was totally unaware.

Advice from Nursie…

VSO training – how to keep safe and keep healthy in a developing country

First day on training course, focusing on health and security, and not sure whether it was nerves or excitement but when I was asked to introduce myself to the group, my mind went blank! I couldn’t remember where I’m going!!

A few interesting things … 98.8% of VSO volunteers don’t have any health problems or accidents but the nurse ran through a list of some of the complaints she’d come across. One of the reasons for ‘Psychological Repatriation’ as they call it was ‘being charged by an elephant’. Well needless to say the whole room howled with laughter… except me!

On another part of the course, we did some ‘Stakeholder Analysis’, drawing a diagram to illustrate the interaction between (in UCF’s case) the donors, the charity, government wildlife authority, Trustees, local people (villagers) and the end users – in this case elephants! Patrick, one of our Fab Three trainers, commented that it was the first time he’d seen elephants as stakeholders!

Elephant. PHOTO Uganda Conservation Foundation

Little did I know quite how important elephants would become in my new life!

Some gems from Liz the nurse:

    • Recognise the need to be dependent on other people, esp when you first arrive (difficult for a lot of us as VSO volunteers by their nature seem to be pretty independent).
    • Wash regularly and keep dry under your boobs…! 
    • Keep any cuts covered up in areas of high pollution.
    • If you’re eating street food, go to the busiest places and ask for it to be cooked for longer (you’re expected to be fussy anyway!) 
    • Avoid ice or drink the drink quickly before it’s melted! There was debate about whether exposure to a very small amount of bacteria is the same as exposure to a large amount. Apparently you can sometimes get away with a small amount of exposure to a ‘bug’ (tho obviously best avoided if poss).
    • If you’re travelling in public transport along bumpy roads, think of others as passenger as bubble wrap (i.e. sit right in the middle of everyone!)
    • Spit don’t swallow (when you’re brushing your teeth that is!)

Read the Independent on Sunday!

*STOP PRESS* The muzungu has just been interviewed by the Indie newspaper

The UK’s Independent has been running a series on what people do if they get made redundant and VSO came up as an option. This has generated another article on people’s reasons for doing VSO (or being a VSO volunteer). They wanted to talk to another six of us so I volunteered (this seems to be a theme….!)

Well no point being in marketing unless you’re a Media Whore (that’s my excuse!) I had the opportunity to mention Uganda Conservation Foundation (my employer to be) so fingers crossed UCF gets a mention. I am supposed to be raising their profile, so fingers crossed: should be brownie points for me 🙂

Only downside is what I will look like (photographer coming tomorrow) with big scabs on my face post-op to remove moles! Perhaps I should’ve thought this one through …

Read “An army of altruists. VSO boosted by record rise in number of recruits.” The Independent, UK.

If you enjoy this one, you might like to visit my Interviews page.

‘Preparing to volunteer’ VSO training week

‘Preparing to volunteer’ VSO training week in Birmingham

In grey and drizzly Birmingham this week for P2V ‘Preparing to volunteer’ VSO training.

I’m with girls and boys heading off to:

  • The Philippines (to project manage ISO type accreditation of a hospital on one of 18,000 islands and run an audit)
  • Cameroon (a couple + 18 month baby, both volunteers going to do organisational development)
  • Uganda (I’ve met Olivia who I’ll be travelling with and she’s going to be working with deaf children Sarah! (My sister Sarah is deaf).
  • Kenya (one volunteer has worked with Kenya Wildlife Service so lots of networking to be done!)
  • Vietnam (former accountant lady)
  • India
  • Malawi (gorgeous tall Rasta! Ayurvedic teacher)
  • Nepal (there’s a 2 month language programme before you even start the job)

We’re all very excited of course!

Yesterday we discussed Health, Safety and Security and had a whole PowerPoint presentation on diarrhoea! The session was run by a nurse who’s done VSO in Namibia and Malawi, and has nursed people with malaria and rabies so we really have had the insider view. We’ve been taught how to clean water (filter / boil / chemicals) and discussed the use of Femidons vs condoms and how to use Moon Cups! Male readers may want to Google at this point! (Or log off …)

diarrhea toilet humour via cheezburger.jpg

Had an early night (we finished training at 9 pm) then up for a run through the drizzly murk. We (approx 25 of us) are all staying in Harborne Hall, an old convent I believe. It’s lovely, like being back at boarding school (PHC girls I was thinking of you last night!)

The Missionary Position

Apparently I am a missionary!

Last week I received my passport back from VSO, complete with 3 month Uganda tourist visa.

Republic of Uganda visa

Republic of Uganda visa

(This gets swapped for an extended one once I’m there). Also received CRB (Criminal Record Bureau) form so all the legal papers are in place. The CRB check is a standard request – every volunteer has to have this check done regardless of whether we’re working with children or not.

Asked Michael Keigwin (founder of UCF) if he’d mind asking his contact at British Airways whether we can increase my baggage allowance. I only have 23k and am flying on what they call a Missionary rate – the mind boggles!!

I told Michael that everyone in the UK seems a bit disappointed I won’t be living in a mud hut (!) Michael said this can be arranged – when we go on safari!

There are five new volunteers starting in Uganda next month. I’ve just met Olivia (doing a 5 month placement). The other three are all Dutch (VSO recruits from the UK, the Netherlands, Canada, India and the Philippines). Olivia and I will be on the same plane, not sure about the others but we will all spend our first week in Uganda together on our induction training (watch this space!)

Five weeks to go

Working through my list of 14 vaccinations for Uganda

Had 8th and 9th injections (Hepatitis B + second rabies shot). Dr B. seems quite interested in what I’m doing for VSO (because I’m paying her cash for the injections?) Ooh so cynical (but she would only accept cash so it does make me wonder …) I can claim all medical expenses back from VSO. Had a brief discussion about choice of anti-malarial tablets, specifically the side-effects: any of paranoia, thrush or hair loss – quelle choix!

Nick and Sue spent drunken w/end here in London with me. We didn’t stop laughing all weekend. They’re both planning to come and see me. Nick’s definitely coming now she knows there’s a Sheraton in Kampala “can you honestly imagine me dragging Louis Vuitton luggage ‘cross floor of ‘t mud hut?” in that distinct and not to mention LOUD Manchester accent.

elephant guarding hut south western Uganda

Sun rises over the fields of south western Uganda. I’ve come to treasure these moments with local people in the bush – but I realise it’s not for everyone…

Trip to Cheltenham Hospital with Ma this morning (my turn not hers for once). Nurse called out my name and I commented on her beautiful pronounciation of Beauvoisin. She said “is that how you say it? The doctor and I have just been practicing!” Walked into the (mini) operating theatre and lo and behold I was welcomed with another beautifully pronounced “Charlotte Beauvoisin!” complete with theatrical flourish of the arm!

Dr Slimmings was a very nice man – and I hope for his sake he grows into his name (as surely as Mum hopes I will grow into my name Beautiful Neighbour now I’ve had my moles removed!) Lol …I’m sure she thinks I’m more likely to get a boyfriend without them – or am I just stereotyping her as a soppy old moo?

The procedure was all over and done with v quickly although five injections in my face did make me feel sick so I had to stay lying down for a bit. (Detailed gory details available upon request only!) Smell of burning flesh was horrid “but I’m a vegetarian!” I said and the Doc laughed.

He was very interested in VSO actually. Said he’s thinking what to do next (he’s just turned 60) as he never had time to take up golf as a young man because he was working 100 hour weeks! I wished him good luck with his VSO application (to his surprise) as I left. I’m going to send him the recruitment CD, you never know. His skills would be so in demand. VSO take recruits from age 25 up to 75 nowadays.

That makes a total of 14 injections I’ve had pre-trip but no side-effects so far. Ma and sat in the hospital afterwards eating toast and chatting – glad I did now – it was easy to do all that while the anaesthetic was working.

Was supposed to go to work this afternoon but felt too rough – a bit queasy, had a banging headache and my face was a bit sore so talking, laughing and eating were out of the question!