#RwenzoriDiary week 3 – don’t miss July’s Rwenzori Tourism Expo!

Welcome to week three of my #RwenzoriDiary. The series started here …

I’ve just received the most exciting hiking training opportunity: a gorilla tracking permit!

Kwita Izina gorillas Rwanda

Kwita Izina is an annual celebration of Rwanda’s success in conserving the growing mountain gorilla population. Local children come to watch the fun and listen to their favourite bands!

The Rwanda Development Board have invited me to be part of the week-long media trip to celebrate the Kwita Izina ‘gorilla naming ceremony’. Gorilla tracking is one element of the trip! This will be first week of September, so the timing could not be better for my plan to get fit and climb one of the Rwenzoris’ peaks. A good long hike uphill is perfect training for the Rwenzoris (better than running, apparently). Last week I had my longest run in a few months. God I felt GOOD! My Hasher friend Daniel was very interested to hear all about the Rwenzoris rebranding project, and my plan to climb the mountain range. “Aren’t you ready to climb already?” He asked me, as we ran together. That came as a great boost to my confidence (although we were running downhill and on the flat at the time, not quite the same as hiking up steep rocky paths and slippery slopes!) Only once I have (re)mastered the art of running a few hills will I feel prepared. My week started with a meeting with Bismac Amumpaire, the TV presenter and journalist behind the Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in Rwenzori Region, the Rwenzori Tourism Expo and the Miss Tourism Rwenzori Region (amongst many other projects!) These three projects are all based in Kasese, one of the towns at the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains. Tourists frequently drive through Kasese en route between Queen Elizabeth National Park, Fort Portal and Kibale Forest National Park.

Bismac Amumpaire, Rwenzori Tourism Expo Coordinator. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Bismac Amumpaire, Rwenzori Tourism Expo Coordinator. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

The Rwenzori Tourism Expo 2017 will be held from the 13 to 15th July at Rwenzori Square in Kasese. The expo will climax with the second edition of the crowning of Miss Tourism Rwenzori Region 2017/2018 at Uhuru Gardens in the town. Check out the poster for more info. (Last-minute booking of stalls still possible at the time of writing).

Rwenzori Tourism Expo poster 2017

Rwenzori Tourism Expo poster 2017

The Rwenzori region is one of Uganda’s tourism hubs. The region is home to various tribal groups each with a rich history and a unique culture. According to the organisers of the Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region, the walk saw a diversity of people walk together for the first time: the Bakonjo, Bamba, Batwa, Batuku, Banyabindi, visitors, the Police, DPC and RDC of Kasese, hoteliers, tour operators, Uganda Wildlife Authority, World Wildlife Fund Uganda, Rwenzori Mountaineering Services, Kasese Peace Coalition, Hotel Margherita, Sandton Hotel, Link Bus Services, Miss Tourism Uganda, politicians and government. It was certainly very colourful!

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region, Kasese. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

The theme of the walk was Sustainable Peace for Tourism. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

The 2016 Miss Tourism Rwenzori winner and runners-up. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

I wish Bismac and his team the best of luck! I was a bit sceptical initially about how a walk and a beauty pageant can help build peace but I get it now. Events like these bring the community together in a very positive way. Bismac’s drive is tangible and I’m sure this event will become a landmark event for the region. #PeaceAndTourismAreInseparable #SustainablePeace4Tourism

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 2 – Kasese pork joints & grazing at the Sheraton

Tips for hiking the Rwenzoris

I’ve received a few comments about the first entry in my #RwenzoriDiary, including “you go, I’ll meet you back at the bottom!” Irena has been giving me tips on how to avoid blisters. (Hell, had completely forgotten to factor those into the equation). There were more sobering thoughts from my friend Harriet: she said that when she climbed the Rwenzoris, they almost had to bring her down in a stretcher after two days! (I need to find out why). Jesus, another Hasher friend (pictured in last week’s #RwenzoriDiary) warns me against frostbite… but he is interested in climbing with me. Yay! (I’ll have to ask him to keep me warm then! lol). On our field trip, I read a great account of the German Ambassador’s climb to Margherita Peak. I think I’d like to meet him and find out more about his preparations.

Ambassador Schmidt of Germany Margherita Peak Rwenzori Mountains

What was going through your mind knowing you’re standing on the highest point in Uganda? “First, I was struck by how diverse Uganda is and that the majority of Ugandans have never been let alone know about the Rwenzoris. I also reflected on the serenity and the fact that you get to experience such adventure alone without many tourists crowding the place” Ambassador Schmidt

One of my main sources of information for my Rwenzori attempt is Andrew Roberts, a key member of our project team. Andy is best known for being the co-editor of Bradt Uganda, the definitive travel guidebook for tourists, and creator of Uganda’s most popular tourist maps.

Andrew Roberts. White House Hotel Kasese

“Here’s one I made earlier” Andy and his map of the Rwenzoris region on display at the White House Hotel in Kasese.

Andy is an expert on the Rwenzori region (and everywhere else in Uganda!) He is a mine of information, with a fact, observation, map and guidebook ready for every question we asked of him. If you’re reading this blog, you absolutely have to get a copy of the Bradt Guide. I continue to learn so much from this book (updated and republished every three years).

Click on the Golden Monkey to buy the Bradt Uganda Guide on Amazon

Our team spent the first night of our trip at the White House Hotel in Kasese. Incredibly good value. For just 40,000 Ugandan shillings (just over $10 USD), I had a spotlessly clean ensuite double room. This included breakfast: the regular omelette, sliced white bread and Blue Band option. I begged for some fruit and they rummaged around in the fridge to produce some watermelon! I like the White House Hotel. It brings back happy memories of Safari field trips with the Uganda Conservation Foundation.

safari field trip. UCF. Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area

A very serious muzungu on a safari field trip with UCF. Here we were working with UWA rangers to identify the new location of a ranger post in Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area, north of Lake George

“Kasese is ever hot.” Kasese is always hot. This occasion was no exception. There were few people staying at the hotel this time (although it’s frequently full of expat and NGO workers) so Andy and I stumbled through the darkness to a local pork joint. The service was laughably bad. There were two items on the menu and the waitress couldn’t remember either of them. (Interested to see what write-up that gets in the next edition of the Bradt Guide!) However, one place I would definitely recommend in Kasese is the Olimaco cafe. Luckily for our team-mate Albert, the brains behind the excellent Coffee at Last cafe in Makindye, they serve a great cappuccino and service was quick. Albert is our project graphic designer and branding expert.

Rwenzori Mountains foothills scenery

It’s easy to just drive through dusty Kasese without appreciating the fantastic mountains in the distance, but just drive 15 minutes off the main road and you will be amazed at the beautiful mountain scenery

Lake Bujuku boardwalk. Rwenzori Mountains National Park. UWA

Lake Bujuku boardwalk. Rwenzori Mountains National Park. I want to do this! Photo UWA

As for the training element of this #RwenzoriDiary, I confess, I didn’t make it to my 6 o’clock exercise class. I didn’t want to stand out in the middle of the road, in the darkness, at 5.30 in the morning hailing a random boda boda. Next time I need to pre-schedule an Uber cab. A good start today though. Actually ventured inside the gym (for the first time in a very long time) and onto the running machine. I just clicked on the start button and started walking. However, before I knew it, the machine conned me into running! It felt good, until it sped up to a running speed that I am nowhere near ready for. Still, I burnt 250 calories over approximately 40 minutes and enjoyed listening to some old running tracks. I’m feeling good. I’m feeling pumped! I attended an event at the Sheraton Kampala last night. I had knocked back my second glass of wine and munched through numerous tasty samosas and other nibbles before I remembered that endless grazing ain’t part of the programme now! I can be quite greedy, but when I’m on a training mission suddenly everything changes. Today I ate fruit salad for breakfast. What feels like denial one day makes me feel stronger another day.

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 1 – commitment!

I’m committed now. You have it in writing. There’s no going back – only up!

I don’t know when and I don’t know by which route; I don’t know who is coming with me, nor do I know which obstacles I’ll find on my path to getting fit again, but I’ve committed to climbing the Rwenzori Mountains. I’ve been looking for a new challenge, and this is it.

Diary of a Muzungu. WWF office. Conserving Rwenzori Mountains

A very proud Diary of a Muzungu outside the WWF office in the Rwenzori Mountains

A few weeks ago, I received a phone call asking if I would be interested in helping to put together a rebranding and marketing strategy for the Rwenzori Mountains region. Would I be interested? Our client is the Uganda Tourism Board and the donor is World Wildlife Fund. Interesting fact (for me, at least!) WWF is the first conservation organisation I ever encountered. In fact, ‘back in the day’ (at primary school) I was a member of the WWF’s Panda Club! I can’t tell you what an honour it is to be working with WWF-Uganda and Associate Professor Wilber Ahebwa to develop tourism in the Rwenzoris. By developing and promoting successful community tourism projects, we can help keep encroachers and poachers out of the National Parks. (Doesn’t that tell you how significant it is for young people to learn about the environment?)

And so a fortnight ago, our team (who I will introduce next week) departed for the Rwenzori region to visit a few of the key stakeholders and communities who will be part of this project. A lot of research has already been done on the ground but WWF wanted us to see for ourselves some of the tourism activities that can be developed and promoted.

Boardwalk. Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

Muzungu poses on the boardwalk at Ruboni Camp in the foothills of the Rwenzoris

I’m as guilty as the next person for having bypassed the region many times and rarely stopping. Several years ago I stayed at the excellent Ruboni Community Camp (where all profits go back to the local community). I’m delighted to hear it is still firmly on the tourist map, but like so many tourist activities in the area, it could do with a boost.

Sunlight boardwalk Ruboni Camp. Outline Rwenzori Mountains

Sunlight on the boardwalk at Ruboni Camp. Outline of the Rwenzori Mountains on the horizon

This month’s visit was the first time I actually entered Rwenzori Mountains National Park. Like most people, I thought I was too unfit to scale any of the peaks so I dismissed the whole idea of walking in the Rwenzoris, “for the timebeing.” Well, that was several years ago now.

Three-horned Chameleon Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

A chance encounter with a superb Three-horned Chameleon at Ruboni Camp in the Rwenzoris

My week in the region has been illuminating. Full-scale peak climbing is just one of the options, and only a few people will have the fitness and time to do this. There are actually dozens of shorter walks suitable for just about everyone: one day, two day, three day or more, and now I want to do all of them of course! There are an incredible 50 lakes in the Rwenzoris, waterfalls, rivers, spectacular chameleons, birdlife that you will see nowhere else, and so much more. Over the next few weeks and months I’ll be telling you a lot more about the Rwenzori region.

First, let me tell you what I’ve been doing this week.

Last Friday we had an opportunity to sit with John Hunwick, owner of Rwenzori Trekking Services. I’ve thrown a few enquiries his way thanks to a guest blog my friend Jane Goldring wrote about her Rwenzori climb with RTS (one of my most popular blogs incidentally). John was quick to invite me to climb the mountain with RTA, for free. Well Diary of a Muzungu would be nothing without complementaries (!) and this is just the opportunity I’ve been waiting for.

I’ve neglected my fitness over the last two years I’m ashamed to admit. I hurt my foot (through too MUCH exercise, ironically) and gave up while I waited for it to heal. In the meantime I’ve been getting depressed. I’ve missed hanging out with my Boot Camp and Hash House Harrier buddies… but enough already, time to get back on track.

Ethiopian Mountain Challenge

This was my best run ever! 15k non-stop run, circling Wonchi Crater Lake, and still energy left to party all night! Day two of the Ethiopian Mountain Challenge. Pictured with my Hasher friend Jesus (aka Chris)

Climbing the Rwenzoris is not going to be simple. Even at my fittest, I know I’m susceptible to altitude sickness. I felt pretty rotten on my last day of climbing Mount Elgon, and that particular summit is ‘only’ 4,321 metres. I’d love to reach one of the Rwenzoris’ peaks. The highest, Margherita Peak, is 5,109 metres.

I’ve been studying mountain climbing a lot these past weeks and if I don’t summit, it’s not going to be the end of the world. It’s not make or break (although of course I want to!) I relish these next few weeks and months of training almost as much as getting as far as the Rwenzori Mountains. I’ve done similar challenges in the past. They are a real BUZZ!

I need to get fit and I need to lose weight. Losing a few kilos will get me up the mountain a bit easier! Losing a few kilos lessons the chance of injury as well.

Positive stuff I’ve done this week! (Keeping a record keeps me motivated):

Visited Boot Camp to discuss a training schedule with our coach Diamond (didn’t actually exercise, I confess!) Walked from Naguru to Kisementi (45 minutes); ate Super Vitamin salad and healthy chia seed juice for lunch; walked the Hash (1 hour, lots of steep hills, and no beers afterwards); walked one hour today, upto the top of Naguru Hill. (I haven’t given up alcohol completely nor am I exercising every day yet, but I will get there). I have committed to a workout at 6 o’clock tomorrow morning! Gulp.

I have approached two travel writer / bloggers to climb the Rwenzoris with me. One said yes and one said no. I don’t know which worries me more. The first one said yes immediately (because he has absolutely no idea what’s involved!) The second one said no immediately (because “I climbed Mount Kenya once and my experience was so lousy when I hear mountain climbing I shudder with fright.”) I’m glad for the second reaction, it will keep me focused. I have to train for an absolute minimum of two months. If I don’t climb by mid-September, I will have missed the good weather window for this year. (Let me get on and train anyway).

Do you want to climb the Rwenzoris? Have you climbed before? Do you have any tips to help me prepare for this hiking experience? (Do you think I’m mad?)

Wish me luck!

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

The Kigali Marriott Hotel: American luxury with Rwandese class

The Kigali Marriott Hotel: American luxury with Rwandese class

Driving up to the rather smart Kigali Marriott, you might think this is just another American hotel. However, enter the building and you will be appreciate the local touches to every aspect of the hotel. The Kigali Marriott’s decor displays the very best of Rwanda’s high quality crafts industry. The interiors are thoughtfully done and ooze Rwandese character. This extends to the staff who are smartly dressed in tailored uniforms with a touch of kitenge fabric. Every interaction I had with staff was characterised by friendliness and politeness, in an understated Rwandese fashion. I felt very welcome.

Kigali Marriott hotel exterior
The Kigali Marriott is located in Kigarama, central Kigali, a popular location for diplomats and business people

Time was against me on my recent visit so I didn’t have long enough to swim in the pool, have a massage in the Saray Spa or enjoy the huge gym but there’s certainly plenty to do if you’re planning to spend a weekend in Kigali. Actually, why not start your weekend on a Thursday? Thursdays are Ladies Night at Iriba Bar, the trendy cocktail bar on the ground floor. Cocktails and house wine are half price for ladies on Thursdays. There is live music, and free entry to all. The Iriba Bar also has Happy Hour(s) from Monday to Friday from 5.30-7.30 where it’s 2 for 1 on regional bottled beers and house wine.

Iriba Bar Kigali Marriott Hotel
Thursdays are Ladies Night at Iriba Bar, the cocktail bar at the Kigali Marriott

On Sundays, spend the day by the swimming pool and enjoy a leisurely brunch for 25,000 RWF (with unlimited soft drinks) or 32,000 RWF (add regional beers and house wine) or 38,000 RWF (add Champagne to all of the above!) By the way, it’s great to see that the Marriott Hotel employs a lifeguard.

A note about exchange rates: 25,000 RWF is just under 30 USD. 1,000 RWF is approx 1 USD (Jan 2020).

Breakfast at the Kigali Marriott Hotel

Eleven types of pastry, three types of doughnut, fresh waffles, an ‘omelette station’ offering 20+ ingredients, dried figs and mangoes, yoghurts, fresh fruits galore, bread pudding with chocolate sauce, meringues in four pastel colours, what an incredible breakfast display! I hardly knew where to start! African food – added to the menu by Executive Chef Eduardo Frausto Cornish –  included gatogo (or ‘katogo’ in Uganda), kahunga (ugali) and Uganda’s famous rollex (“rolled eggs”) of an omelette served in a chapati. Throughout the hotel, Rwandese-produced coffee is served and promoted, thanks to the Question Coffee community development initiative. Scroll down to see a few of my photos.

The Kigali Marriott’s award-winning chef!

Since my visit to the hotel, I had an opportunity to meet Chef Eduardo, at the annual Silver Chef competition, which this year was held at Birdnest Bunyonyi Resort, Lake Bunyonyi in Uganda. He and his team had travelled from Kigali to support their competition candidate Chef Innocent Rutayisire.

Chefs Silver Chef competition 2017
Chef Innocent Rutayisire (pictured right) from the Kigali Marriott preparing his entry for the Silver Chef competition 2017, held at Birdnest Bunyonyi Resort, Uganda
Silver Chef competition 2017, held at Birdnest Bunyonyi Resort, Uganda
Chefs from the Kigali Marriott and southwestern Uganda gathered for the Silver Chef competition 2017, held at Birdnest Bunyonyi Resort, Uganda

Here the Marriott’s Chef Innocent was awarded second prize in a stiff competition between professional chefs working in the Gorilla Highlands region of Rwanda and southwestern Uganda.

Was this the comfiest bed ever?

My air-conditioned room had all the features you’d expect of a 5 star hotel: fabulously hot shower, deliciously inviting bathtub, in-room safe, ironing board, bathrobes, expensive toiletries, mini handtowels and possibly the comfiest bed I’ve ever slept in. (I was quite relieved that the many power points were of the three-pin variety as the muzungu had forgotten her adapter, as usual!)

Kigali Marriott Diary of a Muzungu
I needed a lie-down after that gargantuan breakfast!

Downstairs, the hotel has a state of the art fitness centre (gym), swimming pool, sauna and steam room. The Saray Spa has an extensive range of massages, body wraps, facials, waxing and scrubs. (There are singles and couples massage rooms, showers and lockers – every need is catered for). The Kigali Marriott has a range of flexible membership options, according to whether you are just visiting or are a Kigali resident wanting an occasional swim or regular gym membership.

Swimming pool, Kigali Marriott 5 star hotel Rwanda
Which silly girl forgot her swimming costume? The pool at the Kigali Marriott looked very tempting

The area around the pool has a welcoming, informal atmosphere and will soon offer barbeque options at the Sarabi Grill. The new Cucina Restaurant is finally open and serves top-class Italian food.

Perfectly set up – for business, leisure and tourism

The Kigali Marriott is the perfect hotel for visiting diplomats and VIPs, with close proximity to the Swiss and Russian embassies (and situated right next door to the Kigali Serena Hotel). The air-conditioned Executive Lounge (only accessible to guests staying on the Club Floor and above) is a good location for coffee meetings and catching up on some work. Breakfast and lunch can be served here and complimentary hot drinks and snacks are available 24 hours. The Executive Lounge has two private meeting rooms. Security levels are high. Only hotel residents can access the lifts, for example.

Kigali Marriott 5 star hotel Rwanda restaurant
Breakfast is served. A beautiful sun-filled Kigali morning

The hotel’s numerous boardrooms and function rooms are ideal for conferences, workshops, weddings, parties, cocktails, receptions and more. The Kilimanjaro Ballroom can be partitioned into smaller sections or opened onto the terrace for attractive breakout areas. It really is a splendid set-up.

Opened in October 2016, the Kigali Marriott is one hotel where I could gladly return and spend more time, but my next adventure beckoned. Next stop: Kinigi, home to Rwanda’s mountain gorillas!

DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. Thank you to the Kigali Marriott for hosting me. For more information on sponsored posts, please read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions.

Have you visited the Kigali Marriott? As you can see, even one night’s bed and breakfast is a real treat!

Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron

Top of the Falls, Murchison Falls National Park

There is an inevitability about the constant flow of the River Nile that I find quite overwhelming.

I find myself imagining the distance this water has travelled. Day and night, night and day, for tens of thousands of years, billions of gallons of water have raced through Murchison Falls en route to the Mediterranean. Kingdoms have risen and fallen, we live, we die, but still the water keeps coming. Imagine if the Nile had a memory: what stories would it tell us!

Aerial view Murchison Falls, Uhuru Falls, Wild Frontiers Uganda
Aerial view of Murchison Falls (to the right) and Uhuru Falls. PHOTO Wild Frontiers Uganda
Murchison Falls. Devil's Cauldron, Wild Frontiers. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
The Devil’s Cauldron is mesmerising! Photo taken looking upriver. Murchison Falls, Uganda. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Diary of a Muzungu. Wild Frontiers. Top of Murchison Falls
The Devil’s Cauldron. Looking downriver. Murchison Falls, Uganda

There are several vantage points at the top of Murchison Falls, arguably the biggest draw to the National Park. To the right of the drop-off point, there is a glimpse upstream of where the River Nile is half a kilometre wide. See the staggering speed of the water, racing towards a gap in the rocks that is just seven metres wide. The water flows ferociously fast. It is breath-taking.

I stand at the edge of this incredible feat of nature, trying – but failing – to comprehend its total and utter awesomeness. Oh, how microscopic and unimportant I feel with my little camera!

Diary of a Muzungu. River Nile. Top of Murchison Falls
Once there was a footbridge crossing the narrowest point of the River Nile. The water speeds through this point ferociously fast
Devil's Cauldron. Top of Murchison Falls
This is my dad 🥰 inspecting the Devil’s Cauldron at the Top of Murchison Falls, Uganda

Thousands of people have taken photographs of the Top of the Falls so I can’t pretend I can improve on others’ incredible shots. The truth is, you cannot possibly capture the essence of Murchison Falls with a camera. You need to visit.

You need to see it with your own eyes.

You need to smell the river, feel its thundering power beneath your feet, listen to its roar, let the spray touch your body…

The water mesmerises me. Its power is so compelling. I feel its draw as I stand by the railings above the Devil’s Cauldron, the point where the River Nile plummets, crashes and explodes down a 43 metre drop.

It’s both exciting and scary.

How small I am. Stand in the wrong place and certain death is instant. I would be swept away in a second; indeed, more than one person has chosen to end their life at Murchison Falls. The river’s huge Nile crocodiles (some measuring an astonishing four or five metres long) are unlikely to mean a body is recovered either. There is a strong link between waterfalls and death in Uganda: certain waterfalls in the south west are historically associated with some macabre practices, like the forced ‘damping’ (dumping or drowning) of young women who were perceived to have broken the strict moral codes of the day.

I record a short video clip. As much as I am recording, I’m watching too, trying to make sense of what I am seeing, struggling to understand it. Although every scene is like every other: ‘water cascades over rock’ / ‘water shoots up into the air’ ad infinitum, it has a life of its own. Amongst the voluminous cascades and torrents are microscopic droplets that dance ghost-like in the air for a second before being consumed into a cloud of mist.

Murchison Falls Devil's Cauldron rainbow
At times, miniature rainbows are visible as sunlight filters through the spray in the Devil’s Cauldron

The water wears many costumes. At once dramatic and imposing, in a split second it is intriguing and dainty. I see magic everywhere.

I suddenly feel a gust of wind. I am safely behind the railing but I feel the wind catch me. Is it blowing me away from the water or pulling me towards it? Is my imagination playing tricks on me? I take a few steps backwards. I’m so lost in watching the movement of the water from the safety of my camera screen that I’m wary of the water tricking me. (See what personality I have given it)? It may only be water but I feel it has a life of its own. It makes me nervous.

The moment is a reminder to put the camera down. You can’t beat the full-frontal vision of Murchison Falls and I cherish the sensation of the river’s spray dancing over my face and bare legs.

The Devil’s Cauldron! Diary of a Muzungu goes to the Top of Murchison Falls with Wild Frontiers from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

“The water level has dropped,” Evelyn tells me. “Before, you would get completely soaked standing here” she says, as we pose for photographs next to the safety rails on the small outcrop of rock above the Devil’s Cauldron. (I wrote this story in 2017 – what devastation the high waters have wrought since!)

Murchison Falls. Top of the Falls with Wild Frontiers. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Top of Murchison Falls with Evelyn and Joan from Wild Frontiers Entebbe office. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga

Sadly, we don’t have time today to walk down to the Bottom of Murchison Falls. It’s a steep walk, on a decent path with handrails and, if you plan it well, you can catch a boat from the bottom. It is only by taking this path that you have the imposing sight of both Murchison Falls (once known as Kabalega Falls) and the lesser-known Uhuru Falls.

View of Murchison Falls and Uhuru Falls, Uganda
View of Murchison Falls and Uhuru Falls, Uganda. You have to take the walk to / from the Bottom of the Falls to appreciate this incredible sight

Tip: take the time to do this excellent walk, for if you do, you will have one photo of Murchison Falls that your friends don’t!

A bit of history

Originally the falls were known as Kabalega Falls. Indeed, some Ugandans continue to refer to the indigenous name. However, explorer Sir Samuel Baker renamed Murchison Falls after Sir Roderick Murchison, president of the Royal Geographical Society. (He also renamed Lake Mwitanzige to Lake Albert, in honour of Queen Victoria’s ‘consort’ Albert). The Sir Samuel and Lady Florence Baker Historical Trail runs 805 km (500 km) through the African bush, and recalls the 1864 route they took from South Sudan into Murchison Falls National Park. The Trail features on National Geographic’s World’s Best Hikes: 20 Dream Trails.

The muzungu’s Murchison Falls travel tips

I travelled to Murchison Falls with Wild Frontiers Uganda and stayed at the superb Baker’s Lodge, on the southern bank of the river, in a luxury thatched safari suite looking straight onto the Nile. We ate every scrumptious meal outside and I even had a dip in the swimming pool. (No extra charge for the soothing sound of hippos munching outside your cottage as you fall asleep!) DISCLAIMER: sadly the Nile has completely consumed this gorgeous lodge!

Diary of a Muzungu. Baker's Lodge. Murchison Falls
Breakfast on the deck, underneath the Sausage Tree! Diary of a Muzungu chills out at Baker’s Lodge. Murchison Falls National Park

Watch out for the crocodiles & hippos! (Very amateur film) of the boat ride to the Bottom of Murchison Falls from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

The scum on the surface of the river water is created by the turbulent Falls and is composed of organic matter (rotting fish and hippo, to be exact!)

The walk from the Top to the Bottom of the Falls (and back up) costs and takes one to 1 to 1 ½ hours. It costs $10 / $10 / 10,000 UGX (tourists / foreign residents / EAC citizens) according to the Uganda Wildlife Authority’ tariff for 2022.

Murchison Falls seen from Wild Frontiers boat
Murchison Falls seen from one of the Wild Frontiers Uganda boats

Wild Frontiers and Uganda Wildlife Authority both run boat trips up and down the River Nile. I took the Wild Frontiers boat cruise to the Bottom of the Falls “possibly the world’s most powerful waterfall in terms of the force of water ejected from the Falls itself.”

Top of Murchison Falls. View downriver towards the ferry crossing and the Delta. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Top of Murchison Falls. View downriver towards the ferry crossing and the Delta. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga

Another superb experience in Murchison Falls is the Delta cruise with Wild Frontiers’ excellent guides Milton and Dan. On our trip, they located not one but three rare Shoebills!

Shoebill, River Nile Delta, Murchison Falls. Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga
Shoebill, River Nile Delta, Murchison Falls. Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga

[Click here to learn about the horrendous plan to dam Murchison Falls!]

Wild Frontiers are the only company to offer a private Bush Breakfast on the northern bank of the Nile. The best way to experience this is by first taking the early morning Delta cruise. After breakfast, you can circle back to your lodge via a game drive through the park. The Muzungu has enjoyed 😊

Have you been on safari in Murchison Falls National Park?

Nairobi National Park. The muzungu’s first city safari!

A city safari in Nairobi National Park. An early morning game drive to match any safari in the bush!

It seemed weird to leave our four-star city hotel and drive through commuter traffic for an early morning safari. Usually, it’s a question of stumbling out of a tent into the Bush… [Note to self: next time, don’t miss the safari vehicle when it leaves the hotel!] If you’ve seen the incongruous-looking photographs of wildlife in front of a modern urban background, then you may know I’m talking about Nairobi National Park (which is actually in Kenya’s capital, making it very accessible for weekend or business visitors).

Safarilink aerial view Nairobi National Park

A flight with Safarilink shows the proximity of Nairobi National Park to Kenya’s capital

Despite many wonderful safari experiences in Uganda, notably while working for the Uganda Conservation Foundation, this was my first safari in Nairobi National Park and my first time to see White Rhino, Thomson’s Gazelle, Wildebeest, Eland, Ostrich and Reticulated Giraffe in the wild. (Uganda has Eland but they are very shy, and Ostrich are in the remote northeastern park of Kidepo).

Nairobi National Park is a pocket-handkerchief-sized 117 km² and the animal diversity is pretty amazing! The park is home to to 100s of species – elephant being one of the few that are missing. You’ll have to go to Maasai Mara, Amboseli or Tsavo – among many other conservancies and National Parks – to see elephants.

Safarilink aerial view Nairobi National Park

Aerial view of Nairobi National Park in the rain

Immediately we entered the park, there were the familiar smells of damp vegetation and animal manure. It smells like a National Park, it sounds like a National Park, and the variety of wildlife we encountered was soon to demonstrate that we really were in a National Park, despite it being surrounded on three sides by human development. Small aircraft flying overhead gave the Park another dimension. (You might say Nairobi National Park is boxed in from the air too).

pemba warthog Nairobi National Park

‘Pemba’ the Swahili for warthog, Nairobi National Park. Photo Kenya Tourist Board / Magical Kenya

We passed the site where the Kenya Wildlife Service made history and burned the stockpile of confiscated elephant ivory. Kenya has taken bold steps to tackle poaching. It is well documented that the sale of legally gotten ivory (through the natural death of an elephant, for example) has stimulated unprecedented demand for ivory in China and fuelled the catastrophic levels of ivory poaching across Africa.

Nairobi National Park ivory

“If no elephant ever complained about the weight of their tusks, why take them off?” ‪#‎WorthMoreAlive‬ Kenya Wildlife Service

 

Kenya ivory burning #worthmorealive

Click on this image to read why “Why it makes sense to burn #elephant and #rhino #ivory stockpiles…” #worthmorealive

The destruction of ivory, sometimes by burning, but these days by crushing, is the only answer. The temptation to steal confiscated ivory (valued at several thousand US dollars per kilo) is too much for many, and the penalties for being caught not harsh enough.

Early morning, our driver Anthony communicated in Kiswahili by radio with the other drivers in our safari convoy and announced that another driver had just spotted a pride of eleven lions ahead of us. (You can imagine our excitement!) We paused above a wooded ravine but it seemed the big cats had gone to cover. They were (understandably) not in a rush to come out and be gawped at by us lot!

Mohawk lion Nairobi National Park. Photo Will Knocker

RIP Mohawk the lion, seen here in his natural habitat: the sad reality is that lions which leave the safety of Nairobi National Park will be lost in the surrounding city and killed. Photo Will Knocker

Instead of seeing lions, we were rewarded with seeing three White Rhino.

Nairobi National Park has a population of 27 White Rhino. It was wonderful to see them in the wild! (To date, I’ve only seen White Rhino at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary in Uganda. Uganda’s own population of Black and White Rhino are extinct).

Nairobi National Park white rhino

Look carefully and you will spot three of Nairobi National Park’s white rhinos !

[Note to self: wear something warm if you’re going on an early morning game drive when the safari vehicle pop-up roof is open!]

ostrich, wildebeest. Nairobi National Park safari

An ostrich and a wildebeest. Ostrich are much bigger than I had imagined them to be. Uglier too! We saw five of these big birds in Nairobi National Park

 

Nairobi National Park dazzle of zebra

Did you know… a group of zebras are called a DAZZLE? Common zebra grazed one side of the dirt track

 

Nairobi National Park giraffe zebras wildlife safari

My most memorable moment of our Nairobi safari was watching the single, elegant giraffe walking slowly down the track towards us

It peered at us through the open roof as it brushed the side of the van. With gasps of excitement as the giraffe walked within inches of us, not one of us professional travel writers, bloggers and photographers managed to take a decent photograph!

Nairobi National Park giraffe zebras wildlife safari

[Note to self: do read the manual before you use your new camera for the first time!]

Next stop was the hippo pools. I’ve seen and written about a gazillion hippo in Uganda, so I was far more interested in learning the ecology of Nairobi National Park. The park signage, developed by Friends of Nairobi National Park, has excellent information about the network of man-made reserves that water the park and its inhabitants.

Wildlife is under immense pressure by human encroachment. Nowhere demonstrates this better than Nairobi National Park: human development on three sides of the park; planes flying overhead; the need to install water systems for the wildlife because the human populations are preventing water reaching the park. Controversially, infrastructure projects such as the Standard Gauge Railway have also been designed to go through the park. I’m a big fan of train travel – as you may remember from my trip on the Lunatic Express from Nairobi to Mombasa but I believe that one day Kenyans will regret the decision to let the train route go through the park (many are bitterly against it). Why can’t the SGR and the bypass be rerouted around the outside of the park? Why can’t underpasses be built? The deal has been done. We just pray disturbance of animals is kept to a minimum.

Have you been on safari in Nairobi National Park?

I really enjoyed our early morning game drive and saw many species I had never seen before. A safari in Nairobi National Park is a fantastic day out if you have limited time in the capital.  It’s a delightful way for people who live in Nairobi to (re)connect with their incredible natural heritage too.

Vervet Monkey Nairobi National Park

Vervet Monkey waiting for me to put something in the bin…. so he can quickly remove it again! Near the hippo pools, Nairobi National Park

Where to find more info on safaris in Nairobi National Park

I think that if I lived in Nairobi, I would volunteer with Friends of Nairobi National Park. Check out their web site, plus the management’s own Nairobi National Park website and the Kenya Wildlife Service’s Nairobi National Park and Nairobi Safari Walk pages.

Wildlife fans will have to visit the Nairobi Animal Orphanage too! (It’s located in Nairobi National Park so you can visit after your game drive).

Feeding cheetahs, Nairobi Animal Orphanage, Kenya

Feeding the cheetahs at Nairobi Animal Orphanage. PHOTO Nairobi Animal Orphanage

Bottle-feeding lion cub, Nairobi Animal Orphanage, Kenya

MIAW! Bottle-feeding a lion cub at Nairobi Animal Orphanage. PHOTO Nairobi Animal Orphanage

If you enjoyed my blog about Nairobi National Park, feel free to share it!

Have you read The Muzungu’s top 10 reasons for visiting #MagicalKenya?

Sundowners, star-gazing & tales from the bush

A weekend at Nile Safari Lodge and lunch at Masindi Hotel

There’s a cool breeze coming off the Nile tonight.

My banda at Nile Safari Lodge is open-netted on three sides. Set on stilts above the riverbank, it is airy and spacious. My banda has a wide veranda overlooking the river.

The two-tone noise beyond the nets can only be a frog. It is so loud that in my mind’s eye I imagine the frog to be a foot long! We hear the occasional HONK of a hippo.

Pod of hippo, River Nile Murchison Falls
Pod of hippo on the River Nile in Murchison Falls National Park

The background noise is a symphony of crickets. According to Zahid, “all you have to do is clap your hands and the noise of the crickets will stop, for 15 seconds at least, and then they will resume. Don’t worry, they automatically shut down by around 10.30pm !” The muzungu isn’t concerned. I look forward to the crickets lulling me to sleep before too long.

A lunch stop at Masindi Hotel

At Masindi Hotel, we received a friendly, understated welcome before eating a simple salad. (The heat in the middle of the day was too hot to consider eating anything else). The service was polite and swift.

Masindi Hotel is one of the original government-owned Uganda Hotels, and was managed well until Amin’s day. It and many others were sold off in the 1990s. Standards slipped. According to the hotel information, Masindi is the oldest Uganda Hotel, built in 1923. It is Indian owned now and has touches of classic Indian decor to complement the original building design and classic gardens. The hardwood interiors of the main living areas are beautifully done. The main building has welcoming bright yellow paintwork.

Hemingway plane crash Murchison Daily News 1954
The dramatic headline of January 1954 was in fact untrue. Hemingway survived not one but TWO plane crashes in Murchison Falls!

Famous guests have included Ernest Hemingway, Kathryn Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart. The Kabalega Restaurant is named “in honour of the legacy of his Majesty Chwa II.” What history! What associations! What a shame this place is not better utilised. [Masindi Hotel has undergone a substantial facelift since I wrote this story].

Driving from Masindi to Murchison Falls National Park

The approach to Murchison Falls National Park is dusty. As we drive the dirt roads approaching the main gate, we close the windows and put the AC on. This is tsetse fly territory. I’d forgotten about those nuisance insects. (Guess who’s wearing a bright blue dress to enter the park? Tsetse flies are strongly attracted to the exact shade of blue that I’m wearing).

Zahid has been visiting Murchison Falls all his life. He points to the bridge that his engineer father constructed. “There used to be so many elephants and buffalo on this side of the river that we had to stop. We could not pass.” These days, most big mammals are confined to the north bank of the Nile.

Abyssinian Ground Hornbill Murchison Falls, safari
Abyssinian Ground Hornbills are frequently seen on the drive to Murchison Falls National Park. This photo was taken on a previous safari when the bush was green – not dry and dusty like it it’s been this March

There are no other vehicles on the road. Our only road companions are baboons, Buffalo, a Marabou Stork, a pair of Helmeted Guineafowl and one of my favourite birds, the Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, its curled eyelashes long enough to make any girl jealous. Flashes of bright blue are the tell-tale sign of Woodland Kingfishers. Swirling flashes of green are Cinnamon-chested Beeeaters.

We enter the park on World Wildlife Day.

Arrival at Nile Safari Lodge

We arrive at Nile Safari Lodge late afternoon.

It’s March and it’s hot. Rain has hit Kampala but barely reached this part of Uganda yet. There have been bush fires. A few drops of rain have brought green leaves to the tips of burnt bush.

Nile Safari Lodge, chain and anchor, Murchison Falls, Uganda
A gigantic chain and anchor line the walkway to Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Uganda

After a friendly welcome at the lodge, I watch ten monkeys picking fresh shoots from the tree next to reception. The monkeys are obviously happy here; there are many young among their group. They’re not scared by us, nor do they beg. Humans and monkeys coexist happily at Nile Safari Lodge.

Welcome to Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls. Altitude sign
Welcome to Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls. Altitude 2134 feet / 646 metres

As we enjoy our sundowners on the deck below the dining area, we spot the flapping ears of an elephant on the distant bank of the River Nile. He gently tugs at the long grass as he saunters upstream. Three Grey Herons fly by. An African open-billed stork and a cormorant fish below us. To our right is a small island that is popular with a pod of hippo and a dozen elephants who swim from the shore. We spot waterbuck too.

elephant Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison, Uganda
Ah… I feel relaxed all over again when I see this elephant! At times, there was a small herd of elephant visible on this island

Nile Safari Lodge was the first lodge to be built on the south bank of the Nile in Murchison Falls National Park and still has the best view of the river. I remember when I first visited in 2010: we arrived mid-afternoon to see 20 elephants at the river’s edge on the opposite bank of the river.

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Uganda Nile view
Enjoy views of the Nile from Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls

What a lovely spot in which to wile away a few quiet days. It’s low season and there are only two other guests, a Ugandan lady and her Hungarian husband. We share a dinner table as we enjoy thick creamy home-made soup and the tastiest Nile Perch. The beers are cold and there’s plenty of ice. With freshly squeezed juice for breakfast (no added sugar), fruits and a cooked breakfast of eggs, sausage, tomato and toast, I really should have done a bit more exercise! Lunch and dinner are both three course affairs.

Early morning on the River Nile

Something on the roof awakens me the next morning. It takes a few moments to realise that there are monkeys overhead! They are so sure-footed, I swear they are human.

I go back to sleep and wake to sounds coming from the river: a flock of Pied Kingfishers and the occasional early morning launch boat, heading out for the start of today’s fishing competition. My morning tea arrives promptly. Hot water is brought for my morning ablutions. I love this banda. If I leave all the doors open, I can watch the River Nile from my open-air shower.

Nile Crocodile, Bottom of the Falls, Murchison
Nile Crocodile, Bottom of the Falls, Murchison

Our breakfast conversations are about crocodiles and hippos – near escapes in fact! Zahid’s friend “Crocodile Dog” had a lucky escape. He lived to tell the tale of his attack by a croc – albeit “minus one leg.”

“Those things come out of nowhere!” Zahid says, as he tells us another tale of lucky escape. Luckily for us, Nile Safari Lodge is high enough above the river to ensure visits by crocodiles and hippos are impossible.

Zahid Alam, Wolfgang Thome, Diary of a Muzungu. Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls
What a relaxing few days, with our host lodge owner Zahid Alam and East Africa tourism expert Professor Dr Wolfgang Thome, at Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls

Pakuba Lodge frequently comes up in conversation. There are rumours that this historical lodge will be refurbished one day. For now, nature has reclaimed Amin’s old lodge. “I saw two porcupines cornering a hyena there once,” Wolfgang tells us. I’ve also heard rumours of a resident leopard. Look what the BBC cauught on camera at Amin’s Pakuba Lodge!

ruins of original Pakuba Lodge Murchison Falls Uganda
Ruins of the original Pakuba Lodge, northern Murchison Falls National Park Uganda

(The Pakuba Lodge where I stayed to view Uganda’s extraordinary solar eclipse is in fact the revamped former staff housing of the original Pakuba).

Murchison Falls National Park has seen many changes. Murchison was Amin’s favourite National Park. It later became Joseph Kony‘s favourite park, making it a no-go area for many years. This was back in the 1990s and the park’s wildlife is thriving again, although oil drilling is the next challenge.

Diary of a Muzungu. capped oil head Murchison Falls
The subject of oil comes up frequently during my weekend visit to Murchison Falls. We checked out some of the capped oil heads, which are quiet (for now)

In search of Bugungu Fort

One morning, our driver Adong takes us to the site of Bugungu Fort, one of Samuel Baker’s forts. (It’s rumoured that an oil pipe may soon be laid right next to it).

Here, the River Nile is inside the National Park so fishing is prohibited. Of course, some people still try, especially since it’s impossible to police every inch of the river. Traditional crops include cotton, sweet potatoes and cassava but it’s been dry for months now. There is evidence of fires all around us.

cotton store near Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Uganda
A store for freshly-picked cotton store near Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls

After a morning talking about crocodiles and fires, my guide walks us down to the river past a small fire on which men are roasting cassava.

“Are there any crocodiles here?” I ask. “Oh yes!” Comes the opposite answer to the one I wanted. We walk through the fragment of Bugungu Forest. A few minutes into the forest and someone mentions tsetse flies. (Guess who’s wearing blue again?)

Where once was a wooden construction, all that remains of Bugungu Fort is a big hole in the ground like a small bomb crater. There are several large Mwai trees, complex trees whose convoluted branches have many smaller branches growing in every direction. They’re an important part of local culture.

Murchison Falls, Bugungu Fort
Exploring the remains of Bugungu Fort below the Mwai trees overlooking the Nile

We walk for another 10 minutes down to Delta Point, at the river’s edge. To the left is the Delta. To the right, upriver, are the famous Murchison Falls themselves. Here the riverbed is sandy. Further on, I spy a long straight pole poking from the surface of the river. It’s the unmistakable shape of a fishing pole. We look down to see a man’s pair of sandals next to it. The river comes under the jurisdiction of the Uganda Wildlife Authority. It is illegal to fish here.

We pause next to a Kigelia ‘sausage tree.’ I’ve always been fascinated by these weird-looking plants. Inedible in their raw form to humans, elephants love these huge fruits. You may know these fruits as the Amarula Tree. I quiz the local man about their uses for humans. Apparently peel one, boil the inside and you have a cure for Syphilis!

Murchison Falls, kigelia sausage tree
The unmistakeable Kigelia ‘sausage tree’ near Murchison Falls

For some reason, I’d assumed the fruit was hollow and light, like a gourd. It takes the muzungu two hands to lift one!

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, kigelia sausage tree fruit
One of the Kigelia fruit weighs as much as 15 kg.!

Adong picks up a wire. “This must be a snare,” he says. Although there is little wildlife on this bank of the river, according to Rogers from Nile Safari Lodge, “some small antelope do swim across the river” into a snare if they are unlucky. Here, downstream from Nile River Lodge, we are just outside the Protected Area of Murchison Falls National Park.

Murchison Falls, wire snare, Uganda
A simple wire snare can trap any animal

A few metres on, a young man stands next to the lakeshore. An older, barefooted man stands next to him. They look at us, we look back at them. He must have heard us approaching before distancing himself from his fishing rod.

It’s interesting to be back in the bush, seeing first-hand the ongoing battle against poachers. I spent my first three years in Uganda as a volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation fundraising to support the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s anti-poaching work in Queen Elizabeth. UCF are very active in Murchison Falls these days too.

Swimming at Nile Safari Lodge

After an intensely hot morning, it’s a relief to take a refreshing dip in the lodge’s pool. It is set away from the lodge and has a clear view of the River Nile. Massages can be organised at the tiny wooden structure below the swimming pool and above the riverbank. The masseuse has a great touch. I feel thoroughly spoiled.

tree blossom Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls
After the first rains, plants and trees blossom instantly

One night we enjoy a vibrant performance by twenty Acholi dancers from the local village. The men wear elaborate feather headdresses which bounce up and down to the rhythm of the calabashes. The traditional drumming, the energetic hip-swaying of the dancers and the open fireplace make for a great atmosphere.

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Uganda lamps

If you are into stargazing, you must bring your telescope.

Zahid showed us great views of Venus ‘evening star’ and a close-up of the moon’s cratered surface. Wow! I’ll never see the moon in the same way again. To the naked eye, Venus and the Moon appear a similar size but Zahid tells us Venus is a staggering 60 million miles away while the Moon is a mere 250,000 miles away.

Shoebill Camp – for the best view of the River Nile

Shoebill Camp is a spacious setting overlooking the Nile, adjacent to Nile Safari Lodge. I camped here with my sister on my first visit. This can be a great arrangement for people who are on a budget, or who like camping but not cooking! For just $10 a night, you have a whole field to yourself, a cold shower and flushing toilets. The security guard can light a fire for you too. It’s just five minutes’ walk through the bush to the lodge where you can enjoy all your meals and cold drinks, and the swimming pool (for an additional fee).

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Shoebill Camp

I’ll always remember how after dinner at the lodge, my sister and I were escorted through the bush by an elderly man with a bow and arrow. Our path through the vegetation was lit by glow-worms. It was magic.

Early morning mist River Nile, Shoebill Camp, Murchison
My sister! Early morning mist on the River Nile, Shoebill Camp, Murchison

Nile Safari Lodge is about to embark on a comprehensive refurbishment programme. With just a few touches here and there, I’m sure that Nile River Lodge will once again be the go-to place that it was for many years.

A big thank you to Zahid, John, Rogers and Dennis (who remembered me after a seven year absence!) It’s been particularly lovely to be back in a lodge where I have such happy memories of a family safari too.

Chinese tourism in Uganda – opportunity or threat?

China and Uganda: tourism opportunities and conservation threats

Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Sandra Rwese, a brilliant Ugandan entrepreneur who I first heard speak at a Nature Uganda public talk in Kampala. Sandra gave us an introduction to Chinese culture, the opportunities – and threats – that this new market poses to tourism and conservation in Uganda. Her insights are fascinating!

Sandra Rwese Chinese tourism Uganda marketing expert
Sandra Rwese, Chinese tourism in Uganda marketing expert

Sandra Rwese is a bilingual tourism expert with many years research experience in China’s outbound tourism landscape. In 2012 she won the Silver Prize for Product Innovation during the prestigious CTW Awards in Beijing. She writes:

“Travel is my religion, and Asia is one of the most fascinating places l happened to explore during my many travels. Having spent time living and studying in mainland China and Hong Kong, l decided to relocate back to Kampala in 2014. I saw a niche in Sino-Africa travel connections and immediately went about launching my tourism consulting firm Gulu & Hirst (G&H).

It took infinite persistence trying to market my advisory services in Uganda – in a country where CEOs prefer to wait until the absolute last minute before reacting to fresh business ideas. I remember once waiting three hours in a reception hall for a brief chance to meet one leading tourism stakeholder. Such is the journey towards promoting China’s USD 422 billion consumer potential to Uganda’s tourism fraternity.

Part of my consulting includes pushing for ecological conservation and, with each public lecture or sales training session, l never miss an opportunity to caution my audiences on the environmental ramifications of mass travel from China. Yes the Chinese have big money to spend overseas, lots of it. But their high propensity for eating arthropods and game meat could come at a higher cost to Uganda’s plant and animal species than we imagined. We simply cannot afford mass Chinese arrivals in groups as large as 200 per flight.

Chinese Officials Seize Record-Breaking Pangolin Haul From Poachers. A pangolin carries its baby, Bali zoo, Indonesia (AP Photo/Firdia Lisnawati)
HEADLINE December 2016: Chinese Officials Seize Record-Breaking Pangolin Haul From Poachers. PHOTO: A pangolin carries its baby at a Bali zoo, Indonesia (AP Photo/Firdia Lisnawati)
confiscated-pangolin-scales-shanghai-roxkzor9i02jtfbiebbp
Customs officers stand guard over seized pangolin scales at a port in Shanghai (Photo: AFP/CCTV)

Chinese tourists are fearless and have gained ill-repute in almost every country so far. Nothing is off limits. Not even rampant trafficking of cheetah hides, donkey meat, lion bones, ivory, sandalwood, albino crocodiles, butterflies, pangolins, sea turtles, and rare national treasures. In my analysis, Uganda’s only hope in upholding species protection rights is by forming legally binding partnerships with travel agents and institutions sending visitors from China. So that their groups are fewer and contained.

New Zealand is doing just that i.e. partnering with travel agents, universities, and FITs (Free Independent Travelers) in China to bring controlled tour groups. This closes the loop on traffickers who often sneak in on individual tourist visas. I see a win-win situation for Uganda if only this matter is taken as a matter of urgency; especially with new waves of Chinese migrants setting up tour companies right here and ferrying in travellers whose origins are anyone’s guess.

Sandra Rwese Chinese tourism Uganda
Sandra Rwese and a Chinese colleague. Sandra is an expert in marketing Chinese tourism to Uganda

The second strategy would be to use Chinese social media campaigns to promote responsible tourism. Community outreach is critical and netizens must be alerted to Uganda’ laws against poaching and wildlife plunder. G&H is moving in this very direction towards RenRen, Sina Weibo, WeChat, Qzone and other popular social apps to convey Uganda’s conservation mantra to the 136 million Chinese planning annual trips abroad. We can successfully build #BrandUganda on such social platforms within China by spreading the message that “Uganda is not for sale.”

Thank you Sandra for some illuminating words and practical advice about the Chinese in Uganda and Africa.

Listen to Sandra being interviewed by Eric Olander on The China Africa Project debating the question: Chinese tourist arrivals in Africa are up, so why aren’t African travel companies more excited? Click on the green button below.

Where to travel in East Africa: the muzungu’s recommendations

Diary of a Muzungu’s recommendations for Uganda, Kenya, Rwanda

Happy New Year, dear Diary reader! Thanks for your support.

Are you thinking about where the next 12 months will take you? Here are some of my favourite places …

uganda-country-flagUGANDA – Kampala “KLA”- coffee, culture and chimpanzees!

Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix).

Diary of a Muzungu, Kampala Insider Guide, Politiken Rjejser, Denmark
Kampala Insider Guide, Politiken Rjejser, Denmark’s most popular daily

There are many Kampala tours; uniquely, the Kampala Dark Day Tour is the creation of a criminologist! Namugongo Martyrs Shrine and Wamala Tombs are two of the tour’s most fascinating historical stops (blogs in draft folder!)

idi-amins-bentley-car-lubiri-palace-kampala
Name that car! And who was its (in)famous owner?

Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary, Lake Victoria

Our closest relative is bound to inspire you! Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary is perfect for a family day out, for camping with friends or as a romantic overnight getaway. It is internationally reknown for its high standards of primate care.

Ndayakira Ngamba Island Uganda chimp www.chrisaustria.com
Ndayakira is one of the 49 chimpanzees that calls Ngamba Island home. Many have been rescued fom the illicit pet trade. Photo courtesy of www.ChrisAustria.com
feeding time Ngamba Island chimpanzee sanctuary Uganda
One of the most extraordinary sights I’ve ever seen and heard: a wall of NOISY chimpanzees reaching out for their breakfast porridge!

The whole family LOVED Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary!

Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, near Kisoro

Mgahinga Mount Gahinga Volcanoes Batwa dancing
Batwa dancing at Mount Gahinga Lodge Volcanoes Safaris Mgahinga Gorilla National Park Uganda

Be the first of your friends to track the gorillas of Mgahinga! The little-visited but engaging gorilla family has now been resident for three years, so sightings are virtually guaranteed. Alternatively, track the rare golden monkeys, hike one of the Virunga’s three volcanoes or interact with the Batwa tribe who inhabited the forests for 60,000 years. Their story is unique. For all the info you need to plan your trip to one my favourite parts of Uganda, read Can you name the distant volcanoes of Mgahinga?. Fly with Aerolink from Entebbe to Kisoro for a real treat!

Muzungu bow arrow. Batwa Heritage Experience, Mount Gahinga Lodge
The Muzungu tries her hand at the bow and arrow. Batwa Heritage Experience. A project developed by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust

Promoting tourism across Uganda: Arua and West Nile

Enthusiasm for tourism in Uganda is at an all time high across the country. I loved visiting Gerald Iga’s hometown of Arua. Read what I discovered in “10 little-known things to do in Arua & West Nile.”

diary-of-a-muzungu-meets-gerard-iga-inside-west-nile
Eating local food is one of my ’10 little-known things to do in Arua and West Nile’
 

Birdwatching – anywhere and everywhere in Uganda!

Sunbird Hill, next to Kibale Forest, is named for its 14 sunbird species (I’m sure the birding experts will find more!)

Identifying a Sunbird - not always easy, even with the bird guide!
Identifying a Sunbird – it’s not always easy, even with the bird guide!

Ornithologist Malcolm Wilson is planning his next bird ringing expeditions when he will be ringing at Sunbird Hill and other popular Ugandan birding locations. Read Malcolm’s blog of a previous bird ringing trip to Sunbird Hill.

white-collared-oliveback Sunbird Hill Kibale
To show how special the place is, here’s a bird caught at Sunbird Hill, that is very seldom seen anywhere – a White-collared Oliveback!

kenya-country-flagKENYA – Nairobi nightlife, rail journeys & the coast

Come, we go! The East Africa Tourist Visa & Interstate Pass make travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda cheaper for tourists and expats + easier for nationals. Read my blog and go!

standard-gauge-railway-viaduct-Kenya
View of the new viaduct from the ‘Lunatic Express’ train. The Standard Gauge Railway opened in 2017. The raised viaduct is aimed at minimising the rail’s impact on the wildlife of Tsavo

Did you know…? In 2017 the ‘Lunatic Express’ train from Nairobi to Mombasa was replaced by new trains on a new track. This gives you two opportunities: to ride the old-fashioned trains for the last time and, after Easter, enjoy the far quicker four-hour journey to the coast.

scuba diving Turtle Bay Dive Centre, Water Sports Watamu
Will this be the year I go scuba diving in Watamu? Or will I have to settle for snorkeling, dolphin and whale watching?!

Tawi Lodge was named Ecotourism Kenya’s Eco-Warrior Facility of the Year. The award-winning conservancy has arguably the best views of (Tanzania’s) Mount Kilimanjaro.

Have you visited the muzungu’s Kenya travel page?

rwanda-country-flagRWANDA: Nyungwe Forest, Rwanda

Kampala to Nyungwe by road: 14 hours by bus + 3 hours by matatu minibus + hmmm… a bit longer on a smaller bus + half an hour ride on a boda boda through the dark forest + hitch hiking is not everyone’s dream journey but Jules and I LOVED it! Nyungwe Forest’s canopy walk and chimp tracking are both highly recommended.

Have you visited the muzungu’s Rwanda travel page ?

uwinka-overlook-nyungwe-national-park-rwanda
Uwinka Overlook is the HQ for Nyungwe National Park, southwest Rwanda. I traveled with expert primatologist Julia Lloyd as part of her Phd. research
diary-of-a-muzungu-kitabi-huts-nyungwe-rwanda
We loved sleeping in the traditional huts at Kitabi Cultural Village! Opposite Nyungwe Park HQ

Nyungwe Forest is in a remote corner of East Africa that borders Burundi and the DRC.

viewpoint-kampala-hash-house-harriers-oraba-border-west-nile
The Hash House harriers keep leading me astray across East Africa! Here in Oraba, West Nile, Uganda shares a tripartite border with both South Sudan and the DRC. Will the muzungu “reach” the DRC in 2017?

And just for laughs, here are a few highlights that you may have missed:

… laughing & (crying?) at another of the muzungu’s dating disasters

… more dramas at the airport!

… stalking celebrities! I love #SityaLoss – still my favourite dance video!

diary-of-a-muzungu-meets-sitya-loss-singer-eddie-kenzo
I was very excited to meet Ugandan “Sitya Loss” singer Eddie Kenzo at the launch of the #Tulambule domestic tourism event

DID YOU KNOW…? Daily updates, Uganda travel advice and random photos come thick and fast on my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page or follow me @CharlieBeau on Twitter.

It’s going to be a busy year for Diary of a Muzungu – where will you be traveling to? Do keep in touch!

Kyaninga Lodge – the dancing, running (and relaxing!) lodge

Kyaninga Lodge‘s breathtaking views

Since the recent launch of the Disney film ‘Queen of Katwe,’ Ugandans have been discussing how we can attract the film industry to film in Uganda. I first visited Kyaninga Lodge in 2011. Since then I’ve been unable to picture the lodge without imagining James Bond parachuting down into the crater lake below the lodge and jet-skiing across it! Kyaninga Lodge is unique. Read my review and you’ll quickly see why!

Kyaninga Lodge, near Fort Portal – early morning view of the crater lake from my cottage from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

What is so special about Kyaninga Lodge?

Stunning view? CHECK!

mist-morning-kyaninga-lodge-fort-portal-uganda
PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin. Early morning mist hides the crater lake from view. At one point, all I could see was the peak of the volcanic ash cone poking through the mist. In the distance are the Rwenzori Mountains

Helipad? CHECK!

helipad-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
There’s plenty of room for you to bring your helicopter!

Well-stocked bar serving the muzungu’s favourite tipple? CHECK!

kyaninga-lodge-fort-portal-bar-uganda-waragi
Kyaninga Lodge has a very well-stocked bar and sells some high quality crafts, such as the unique bicycle and truck bottle-holders displayed on the wall behind me. The profits from craft sales go to the Kyaninga Child Development Centre.

Swimming pool with ridiculously gorgeous view? CHECK!

swimming-pool-crater-lake-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
As soon as we saw the swimming pool, we wanted to jump straight in! ‘Strictly no diving and no jumping’ – from the upper veranda – says the sign…

Superb food? CHECK!

roast-beef-lunch-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
Perfect – roast beef with mashed potato
english-breakfast-at-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
Full English breakfast is a must when you plan to walk around the lake!
morning-tea-kyaninga-lodge-fort-portal-main-building
Morning tea on the balcony of Kyaninga Lodge outside Fort Portal

Fab company? CHECK!

Driving to Kyaninga Lodge from Kampala

Despite a warning that we might find the dirt road from outside Fort Portal to the Lodge to be tricky driving in the rainy season, we had no problem. We didn’t even need to engage the four-wheel drive. The 20 minute drive on dirt roads show scenes of rural Ugandan life at its most picturesque.

Richard gave us a lovely welcome upon arrival. The keys to each cottage come in a tiny cloth bag, complete with your own personal mobile phone for the duration of your stay. The main lodge living area, lodge manager and all the rooms have their own phone number which are already keyed into the phone. What a great idea.

About Kyaninga Lodge – geography

The view from the lodge shifts and changes constantly thanks to the combination of the Rwenzori Mountains (seen in the distance) and the deep water of the lake. At times the mountains are clearly visible, sometimes they are obscured by cloud; in the early morning, mist lies in the valleys. It’s breathtakingly beautiful.

Over time, two volcanic craters have come together to form one of the deepest crater lakes in Uganda. The lake plunges a formidable 224 metres into the earth. Although water of this depth should be very cold, thanks to the semi-active properties of these craters the water is a comfortable temperature for swimming.

According to the lodge’s owner and designer Steve, “the lake is warming up. They have been measuring the temperature for the last 25 years and it is due to erupt again in 10,000 years!”

The lake water has a very high mineral content which stops the formation of any algae. This, and the fact that the lake has no shallows because of its deep sides, keeps the lake Bilharzia-free. Kyaninga is therefore one of the very few Ugandan lakes that is safe to swim in. A path leads from the lodge to steps that take you down to a floating jetty at the water’s edge.

Kyaninga Lodge – cottages

view-from-my-cottage-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
Early morning view from my cottage at Kyaninga Lodge. Every cottage looks onto the crater lake

Each self-contained cottage is a little walk from all the others, meaning you have total privacy. Each cottage overlooks the crater lake and has a spectacular view of the Rwenzori’s. Every cottage has a wide self-contained veranda; no-one else can see you. Using your nifty little mobile phone, it’s possible to call for drinks to be served on your deck.

Thanks to its wooden construction, in and out, the lodge has a strong Alpine feel to it, although Steve told us he had never been inside a log cabin before he designed and built Kyaninga!

It’s wonderful to see how the lodge’s trees and beautifully landscaped gardens have matured. There is constant birdsong all day, always a healthy sign for the environment. In the valley to one side of the lodge is rumoured to be Uganda’s only lawn tennis court, which also doubles as a badminton court. Lodge guests can also play croquet and boules.

wooden-walkway-kyaninga-lodge-fort-portal
Paul relaxes on the walkway between the cottages and main building. The wooden walkways are well lit and have been treated so they are not slippery when wet

The Wi-Fi works well in the main lodge building and the rooms have three power points, so you’re well equipped for power. Helpfully, each room has an umbrella that you can use when moving between your room and the main building

Kyaninga Lodge cottage bedroom
Each of the huge Kyaninga Lodge cottage bedrooms has its own veranda and private view

Kyaninga Lodge is a labour of love and took six years to build. The timber (Eucalyptus and Elgon Olive) are found locally, as is the Semliki variety of grass, used for thatching.

Interesting fact: “Kyaninga Lodge is equipped with six fire hoses each capable of sending a jet of water over the top of the cabin or the main lodge building. The fire hoses are connected to a pump that is in turn connected to the swimming pool, meaning we have approximately 120,000 litres of water available – which should be plenty!”

The swimming pool itself is carved out of the rock face.

lighting fire Kyaninga Lodge living area
Lighting the open fire at Kyaninga Lodge – a welcoming start to the evening

The main lodge building sits at the summit of one of the area’s famous rolling hills. The individual cottages hug the brow of the hill and slope down to either side of the main building in an equilateral pattern. The high ceilings and bare wood give a feeling of space. I imagine it might get chilly here but every evening, around sunset, the open fireplace is lit as guests congregate for pre-dinner drinks.

In addition to the main dining area, guests can choose to dine privately in one of the upstairs galleries.

What can you do at Kyaninga Lodge?

There’s a long list of complimentary activities:

  • – Swimming in the lodge pool.
  • – Lawn tennis, badminton, croquet and boules (lodge guests can borrow tennis balls and rackets from the Lodge).
  • – Crater rim walk
  • – Two private terraces below the swimming pool are perfect for a sundowner. One of the terraces even has a small fireplace.
  • – Birdwatching
  • – Swimming in the crater lake
  • – Village and cultural walk
  • – Forest walk inside the crater for a good chance of seeing monkeys and forest birds and the chance to peer inside a bat cave!

Kyaninga Lodge, crater rim walk

On our first morning, we set off on a circumnavigation of the crater lake ‘the crater rim walk’ below the lodge. We took our time, stopping every few minutes for photographs, admiring Kyaninga from different angles as we passed through fields of crops. The farmers told us of the crops they were planting: Irish potatoes, beans, cassava and yam. We saw fabulous birds including Cinnamon-chested Beeeaters, a male black and white Pin-tailed Wydah bird (complete with its long breeding plumage), an African Open-billed stork and a striking black and red Ross’s Turaco. The walk took us around two hours.

A spot of birdwatching – before breakfast

On our second morning, we’d arranged for one of the lodge staff to take us on a short birdwatching walk in the grounds of the lodge. I’m so glad we got up early and had a chance to catch the magical sight of the mist over the lake. The birdwatching was a bonus!

Birds we spotted included: Baglafect Weaver, Copper sunbird, Black-crowned Tchagra, Fan-tailed Widowbird, White-browed Robinchat, African Fish Eagle, Red-billed Firefinch, Tawny flanked Prinia.

African Firefinch “like posho” said our guide. “You often see them congregating outside houses where people are washing their plates.”

We listened to two different types of monkey: the Vervet and the black-and-white Colobus, who were chattering and communicating with each other from different sides of the lake. The guide told us that baby Colobus are born with white fur.

He also explained the medicinal uses of the Omunyara tree and the ‘Five-fingered leaf plant.’

More activities at Kyaninga Lodge

There are a range of massages and beauty treatments available.

To explore the area further, the lodge can organise:

  • – Walks in the Great Rift Valley – at the edge of the escarpment you can see the vast expanse which is the convergence of the Congo basin and the Great Rift Valley.
  • – Mountain biking to Semliki Safari Lodge.
  • – Kyaninga Lodge is a convenient base for exploring Kibale Forest, Semliki National Park, Queen Elizabeth National Park and the Rwenzori Mountains.
  • – Visit Toro Botanical Gardens in Fort Portal and the Toro Golf Club, a nine-hole golf course which is open to non-members.

Can you dance? Would you like lessons from a pro?

The second ‘So Kyaninga can dance’ was held in 2017. The event was held on Kyaninga Lodge‘s purpose-built dancefloor.

So Kyaninga can dance May 13th 2017
‘So Kyaninga can dance’ was held at Kyaninga Lodge in 2017

Can you run? Swim? Cycle?

Another popular event held at Kyaninga Lodge is the Kyaninga Triathlon. Read about all the sporting events on this blog post, which I update every year.

kyaninga-triathlon-swimming-crater-lake PHOTO Olive Nakiyemba
Triathlon competitors prepare to swim in Kyaninga’s crater lake. PHOTO Olive Nakiyemba

Before I sign off…

To enquire about lodge availability, email info@kyaningalodge.com or call +256 772 999750. Remember to say the muzungu sent you 😎

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park – no. 1 for mountain gorilla trekking, no. 1 in Africa for birding too!

We pay a lot of lip service to ‘protecting the rainforest’ and here it is: a magical, mystical misty place. The first time I visited Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, I felt a strong emotional pull. My first sight of Bwindi’s rainforest made me want to cry. 

View Bwindi Impenetrable Forest Ivy River Nkuringo

View of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest as we ascended from Ivy River up to Nkuringo. Click on the image to read my blog about crossing the forest from Buhoma to Nkuringo – it was an amazing experience!

You don’t have to be a primatologist to love Bwindi, but it helps. Just over half of the world’s estimated 1000 mountain gorillas are located in Uganda’s far south-west corner. The biggest number of mountain gorillas are in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, making it the best place in the world to see the mountain gorillas.
Read my Ultimate Guide to Trekking the Mountain Gorillas for advice on where to go gorilla trekkingwhere to stay, what to pack and explain how your trek supports the Mountain Gorillas and the human population. I also share ideas on other activities you can do in Uganda as part of your gorilla trekking tour. All information in my Ultimate Guide is based on my personal experience trekking the gorillas.

The forest’s wildlife also includes chimpanzees, forest elephants, duikers, Red-tailed monkeys and hundreds of mammals. Forest butterflies are particularly beautiful.

enkima Red tailed monkey Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Enkima – my totem the Red tailed monkey – Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. Click on the image to read my blog “Eye to eye with my totem”

The African Bird Club has ranked Bwindi Impenetrable Forest the number one site for birding in Africa.

According to Keith Betton, Chairman of the African Bird Club:“No fewer than 23 of Uganda’s 24 Albertine Rift endemic species are found here including globally threatened species such as African Green Broadbill Pseudocalyptomena graueri and Shelley’s Crimsonwing Cryptospiza shelleyi, plus others such as Kivu Ground-Thrush Zoothera (piaggiae) tanganjicae, Oberlaender’s Ground-Thrush Zoothera oberlaenderi, Dwarf Honeyguide Indicator pumilio, Lagden’s Bush-Shrike Malacanotus lagdeni and Chapin’s Flycatcher Muscicapa lendu.”

Hire the service of an expert bird guide to make the most of a walk through Bwindi Forest. Forest birds aren’t easy to spot, but your bird guide can lure them out by imitating their song. It’s a very special experience.

Welcome to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. Bwindi hiking. Photo David Tumusiime

Welcome to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. Bwindi hiking. Photo David Tumusiime

While you’re in Bwindi, take time to go on a village walk. “The Batwa Experience” gives you an insight into the traditional way of life of the Batwa (‘pygmy’) people who lived in the forest for 60,000 years. The Batwa’s ancient forest lifestyle is unique and the community fragile.

Did you know… the mountain gorilla population once numbered just 254 individuals? Thanks to gorilla tourism, their numbers have stabilised. However, they remain endangered (the official term used by IUCN).


10 little-known things to do in Arua, West Nile

Here’s the muzungu’s guide on how to travel to Arua, 10 things to do in Arua and West Nile, all about Arua town, what to buy in Arua market – and the best times of year to travel.

The Muzungu writes: I first visited Arua in 2016. That trip to the far north west of Uganda would not have been possible without the guidance of Gerard Iga. He is the ‘go to’ guide for Arua and West Nile. In 2022, I revisited. The town has seen a number of changes, in particular: new roads and a huge new shopping centre in the middle of the town. I haven’t updated all the restaurant and hotel recommendations in this blog post yet but, as ever, if you have a question just send me a message.

diary-of-a-muzungu-meets-gerard-iga-inside-west-nile
Diary of a Muzungu meets Gerard Iga of Inside West Nile for local lunch in Arua

Special thanks to my friend Harriet Fowler who gave me a return Eagle Air ticket to Arua!

Flight to Arua from Entebbe with Eagle Air

eagle-air-flight-entebbe-to-arua Travel West Nile
The clouds below our small plane parted to reveal the shimmering water of Lake Albert and the River Nile
eagle-air-flight-over-murchison-falls-delta
I immediately recognised the shape of the Nile Delta, a popular location for Uganda safaris and a good place to see the Shoebill (although perhaps not from this height!)

The Victoria Nile flows down from Lake Victoria through Lake Kyoga via Karuma Falls and thundering down over the famous Murchison Falls. Heading north, the water becomes known as the Albert Nile, and flows from Lake Albert on through South Sudan, Sudan, Ethiopia and Egypt.

eagle-air-flight-entebbe-to-arua
Flying north over the River Nile, I could make out the shadows of the highlands of Panyimur, location of hot springs. Mount Erusi is the highlands’ highest peak

If you like aerial photos, check out the Air Photo Archive of Settlement and Agriculture, Rural Uganda 1963, created by Walter Deshler, University of Maryland.

Jonam, Pakwach. Air Photo Archive of Settlement and Agriculture, Rural Uganda 1963
Jonam, Pakwach. Air Photo Archive of Settlement and Agriculture, Rural Uganda 1963

The land below remains surprisingly green as we headed north. Superficially at least, not much seems to have changed west of Pakwach in 50 years!

eagle-air-flight-entebbe-to-arua-travel West Nile
On the north bank of the River Nile, homesteads ‘clusters’ of thatched huts came into view

I could see no brick constructions and no tarmac roads, just dirt roads as far as the eye could see and the very occasional tin roof. Not a vehicle in sight. I could make out the occasional person on a bicycle on the red dust roads.

Borassus Palms are one of the distinguishing trees of the north bank of the Nile, their seeds carried from Sudan in the stomachs of wandering elephants, and later expelled to transform the environment.

Eagle Air flight to Arua. Landing from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

We had a very easy landing at Arua Airstrip. Watch the short clip to the end – how delightful to see the schoolchildren watching the plane land! Pretty as a picture.

arua-airport-foundation-stone-mobutu
I’d love to know the story behind this Foundation Stone? The President of Zaire (now DR Congo) General Mobutu, opened the airstrip at Arua in Uganda

About Arua – a great town!

Arua: think ‘Fort Portal without the hills’. We’re talking calm, clean and organised, with a touch of retro, thanks to the colonial architecture.

I travelled with friends from Kampala and Nairobi. We were all impressed by Arua. Many friends had not visited for a decade or more and noticed huge changes in the town.

outside-arua-hospital
The pavement outside Arua Hospital is always busy with street vendors and boda boda bicycles. Arua town

Arua is a cosmopolitan town, heavily influenced by its proximity to DRC and South Sudan. Apparently the Congolese of eastern DRC do more trade with Kampala than they do with Kinshasa, their own capital.

There are many forex shops in town. Arua also benefits from the many NGO offices, including Red Cross, Welt Hunger and others, here for humanitarian work in South Sudan.

gerard-iga-boda-boda-arua-road
The most striking thing are Arua’s good – and clean – roads. Bicycles and boda boda motorbikes fill the roads

Cars are few in Arua. You have to feel sorry for the abused vehicles: overloaded trucks carry 30 men at a time.

Gerard and Charlotte take a boda boda motorbike ride through Arua town, West Nile, Uganda from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

While the road tarmac is in good condition, you can see the poverty as you drive north, up to the South Sudan border. The road is lined with thatched huts. Mabati tin roofs are few and far between (showing how little money there is in the area).

road-view-of-mountains-from-arua-to-koboko
There is a good road from Kampala via Arua up to the South Sudan border

Arua town has colonial buildings such as the Post Office style that is common to Kampala, Fort Portal and elsewhere. There is a Public Library too.

arua-library
Arua library on the town’s main street is a colonial style building

The small town has a population of 62,000, with 785,000 in the District. Apparently the late emeritus Bishop of West Nile developed many projects for the local community during his 30 years in office.

“And we should remember they produced a president!” My friend Daniel added, when we were trying to work out why Arua is such a thriving town.

West Nile has historically been isolated, both physically and politically, from the rest of Uganda. There is only one road bridge that crosses Nile (at Pakwach) to connect the region with the rest of the country although there are lesser used ferry crossings.

Former President Idi Amin was born in West Nile (his mother was from Arua and his father was from Koboko). During Amin’s reign, local people are said to have benefited but post-Amin, they were punished politically and economically.

To read more about the history of West Nile, read Dark past to glimmering future; the West Nile you never knew! One day, with an investment in facilities and itineraries, I can imagine tourists visiting the region just to learn more about this period of Uganda’s history.

10 little-known things to do in Arua

1.    Take a walk to the top of Arua Hill for a panoramic view of the town

sunset-over-arua-panoramic-view-of-the-town
Sunset over Arua. Panoramic view of town

2.    Eat local food

Market Lane in Arua has a good number of restaurants serving goat’s meat, beef, chicken, smoked dried fish with g’nut [groundnut/peanut] sauce.

traditional-lunch-arua-beans
Traditional lunch of beans, sweet potato and greens, Arua town
traditional-lunch-arua-kaloo
Traditional lunch of kalo (millet bread), meat and osubi (finely chopped greens, prepared with groundnut sauce and rock salt), Arua town
traditional-lunch-west-nile-goats-gizzards-cassava-matooke
Lunch at the Oraba (border with South Sudan) was matooke, cassava, roasted goat’s meat and “innards” (what looks like mushrooms to me, on the left of plate)

“What food will you take with it?” In Uganda, ‘food’ is specifically the starchy stuff like rice, kalo, matooke, sweet potato and chapatis. Side dishes [no jokes please] include tasty osubi, finely chopped greens, prepared with gnut sauce and rock salt.

The Still Baghdad Restaurant in Arua does a good beef pilau rice – with enough chunks of beef to satisfy a Kenyan!

3.    Enjoy the live Congolese music at Club Matonge

The Congo is just a short drive from Arua, meaning the town is a great place to hear Congolose musicians perform. Club Matonge is a  ‘free to enter’ outdoor bar. (The bar doesn’t serve spirits, just beer and wine from a box). We spent a couple of hours here. When the band realised we had Kenyans in our crowd, the singers launched into some classic Swahili songs. Our friends from Nairobi reminisced!

live-congolese-music-club-matonge-arua-westnile
Club Matonge closes around midnight. The same excellent band also play at Annexe on Thursday nights in Arua

4.    Go clubbing at Vino Lounge

Vino is the place to hang out, particularly on Friday nights. It gets packed! Club entrance is free.

Everyone had told us we had to check this place out. It’s a late night / all night club, with several bars. Head for Galaxy, the VIP section, on the 2nd floor to get away from (some of) the crowds. These guys can DRINK! OMG. We’re talking neat spirits.

5.    Eat at Café Cosmo, Arua’s best café and restaurant

Open 11 to 11 every day, Café Cosmo is very affordable, has good service and a great menu of international, Indian and local African food. This popular restaurant is frequented by Indians, UGs, expats, everyone. [2022, the pandemic plus construction of the new mall have changed things].

worlds-tastiest-beef-samosa-cafe-cosmo-arua
Is this the world’s tastiest beef samosa?

Sham the chef’s ‘Cosmo Bites’ include the freshest beef samosas ever. Indian dishes include tandoori and a scrumptious chicken tikka. ‘Afro favourites’ include goat stew and chicken pilao. Fridays and Saturdays, Cosmo make pizzas including a tikka paneer one! I’ll try that on my next trip 🙂

cafe-cosmo-arua
Thanks to Martin Aduku for looking after me so well

The very friendly Martin recommends C.F.C. the ‘Cosmo Fried Chicken’ [geddit?] Café Cosmo is opposite the URA building on Pakwach Road.

6.    Oasis 247 bar and restaurant is open every day

Karaoke nights, quiz nights and pool competitions make this a popular hang-out. Oasis is a good bar for beer promotions and music videos.

7.    Walk round the back streets of Arua to see the Hindu Temple

arua-town-outside-hindu-temple

The striking red wall enclosing Arua’s Hindu temple. The ladies here are selling sweet potato seedlings

8.   Visit Arua’s markets. The muzungu’s shopping suggestions

lady-vendor-arua-market
This humble lady vendor had a beautiful shy smile. She packed some dried “o’bokoa” for me. Apparently they taste a bit bitter, like eggplant
giant-mushrooms-arua-market
Giant mushrooms fill a plastic basin! These seasonal beauties grow in termite mounds (in August/September). And to think we suffer such tiny, tasteless mushrooms in Kampala!
arua-town-ladies-in-market-peeling-jackfruit
Preparing ffene (jackfruit). I love the bright traditional clothes of local women; so much more interesting than the predictable Western attire in Kampala
vendor-arua-market-enswa-white-ants
Dried enswa white ants – in the black basin in the photo – on sale in Arua market. This vendor gave me a recipe for enswa sauce!
making-chapatis-arua-market
These cheeky boys had some tasty-looking chapatis. In the plastic bag is mairungi (quat) ‘chewable herbs’ shall we say … a mairungi rolex anyone?
  • Kitenge material from the Congo
  • Termite mushrooms – click here for A Kitchen in Uganda’s Curry Termite Mushroom Soup recipe!
  • Groundnuts in their shells
  • Shea butter (locally farmed)
  • Sim sim sesame seeds
  • Sugarcane
  • Jackfruit (peeled into bitesize pieces)
  • Pineapple (chopped into long chunks)
  • Dried enswa white ants – don’t forget  to ask for the recipe!
  • Salt-dried Angara fish
  • Wooden mortar and pestle
  • … and bucket after bucket of dried beans of different colours

9.   Visit Miriadua Falls along the Arua – Koboko road

miriadua-falls-maracha-west-nile
“I know, great pic but some dude is blocking the view!” Gerard posing at Miriadua Falls, near Arua, so named by Gerard’s uncle

Gerard Iga writes: “I have a personal attachment to this one since it was my very own uncle that named the falls after himself. He was the county chief of Maracha in colonial times. When he went to visit this place, he asked the locals what the falls were called and they said “Iyi Kuru” which literally means “rough flowing waters”. Since all over Lugbara land, such falls are called iyi kuru, he decided to name them after himself and that is the name by which the place is known everywhere else except the locality. There, people still call it iyi kuru.”

Miriadua Falls are a 20 minute journey outside Arua Town.

10.   Enter inside Uganda’s smallest church! Near Goli, Nebbi

Imagine … a church that “can only accommodate three people, including the preacher.” What a great place to get married (and keep down the cost of your wedding!)

Goli church Nebbi Uganda
Surely Uganda’s smallest church, at Goli, near Nebbi, West Nile

I’d heard rumours that this is “the smallest church in the world” but I can’t seem to verify it – it certainly is petite though, according to my travel writer friend Solomon Oleny. The muzungu failed to reach… the church on Biku Hill is near Nebbi, a good hour’s travel from Arua.

How to get to Arua, West Nile

Fly to Arua

Currently, Eagle Air is the only operator to fly scheduled flights to Arua. They fly 3 times a week between Entebbe and Arua.

eagle-air-plane-arua-airstrip
Eagle Air flies 3 times a week between Entebbe and Arua.

They are efficient in person e.g. at Kampala office in Portal Avenue. Tel +256 (0)414 344292 / +256 (0)772 777338/7  and +256 (0)752 793860.

eagle-air-plane-ticket-to-arua
Remember to have your 5,000 UGX to pay airport tax. You pay it twice if you have a return ticket
Arua Airstrip building
The current Arua Airstrip building. The compound (of other buildings) includes clean toilets and a cafe cum bar that serves tea, beer and sodas
new arua-airport-new apron
Arua Airstrip is being developed to take bigger planes. The new airport building (to the right) has yet to open to the public

The new airstrip should be a real boon for trade with the DRC. Will commercial flights open up West Nile to tourism too? I heard rumours of Kenya Airways and RwandAir… let’s see!

Take the bus to Arua

A number of bus companies supply Arua with daily services. Generally, the standard daytime bus costs 30k UGX and the executive (overnight) bus costs 50k. They all depart from Arua Park, downtown Kampala. Contacts in Arua recommend the executive Gaaga bus which runs overnight and has reclining seats. KKT are ‘more reliable than Gaaga’ according to another source. California bus company started up last year. Nile Coach is an old school provider that ‘overpacks vehicles.’ [2022 there are new bus providers].

If your bus (or car) stops at Kafu, en route to Arua, think twice before you eat the roasted ‘muchomo’ meat!

How to get around Arua town

Bodas in Arua are cheap and everywhere. If you don’t have the right money, you won’t have to argue to get your change. Refreshing. (I am constantly overcharged in Kampala!)

boda-boda-arua

Arua is a very pleasant town to walk around. Main roads have good wide pavements (and the boda drivers do not seem to drive on them either!)

In 2016, the 4km taxi journey from the airport cost me 10,000 ugx. By boda, it cost me just 2,000 UGX.

When to visit Arua

Arua is at an altitude of 1,200 metres meaning nights can be cooler than in most places in Uganda.

Generally expect:

April to June – lighter rains; August – cold, day and night; August to October – heavier rains;

December to Feb / March – cold mornings, very hot in the day, warm at night.

A few words of Lugbara, one of the local languages

Mi efu ngoni – good morning [mifun-GO-ney]

Mi ngoni – how are you? [min-GO-ney]

Awadifo – thanks [awad-if-O]

I love exploring new parts of Uganda and learning a few words of local language.  But in West Nile, as soon as I got the hang of greeting somebody in Lugbara, I was told that we were in a different district where a whole range of other languages and dialects are spoken!

Awadifo!

I was drawn to the northern region of West Nile and Arua town by the lure of a tourism ‘familiarisation’ trip. I really had a great time.

Thanks to Kampala House Harriers (KH3) for finally getting me to Arua – an invitation I most definitely could not ignore! My Arua trip included three days of fun supplied by KH3. Read that story here “Nagawa – you cowardised!” A detour via the Congo.

A big thank you to Dolorence Were of USDC Uganda Society for Disabled Children for letting me transfer the Eagle Air ticket (that my friend won in the USDC fundraiser raffle) into my name.

Have you visited Arua? When was the last time you visited ? What are your favourite things to do in Arua?