Rift Valley Railways relaunches Kampala passenger train service after 20 year break
UPDATE 2021: are you looking for information about the Kampala commuter train? Then scroll down. This blog is all about my experience when the train relaunched in 2015. The latest timetables are further down this post.
Another first this week: my first Ugandan train journey on the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train! My first African train journey, in fact!
I was very excited to hear that Rift Valley Railways, Uganda Railways Corporation (URC) and KCCA (Kampala City Council Authority) relaunched the Kampala passenger train service this week. We frequently hear the rumble of the train in the distance, but the service is confined to shunting freight from the dock at Port Bell on Lake Victoria up to Kampala’s industrial area. The train goes backwards and forwards across this short section of track a few times a week, delivering containers of imported goods via Mombasa and ‘outside countries’ beyond East Africa. The relaunch of the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train service for passenger travel marks a new beginning for the railway in Uganda. I couldn’t wait to experience it for myself.
And so 7 o’clock Tuesday morning – day 2 of the train service – I jumped on a boda boda and headed down to Kampala Railway Station, a neat colonial-type construction below Kampala Road.
Awesome Aussie journo and friend Amy Fallon was on the station platform, taking photos and looking for passengers to interview. 100 passengers had taken the 6.30 am train from Namanve to Kampala that morning but on our train (7.30 am Kampala to Namanve, heading out of the city) there were just two Bazungu writers / bloggers and a group of Uganda Railways Corporation staff. I guess we were traveling against the commuter tide, so to speak…
The staff were happy to see us and explained that each of the five carriages can take up to 200 passengers and that they expect 50% capacity by the end of this week. (Not sure whether they achieved it? But I can imagine the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train service will quickly become popular). The train staff helped us get on the train (it’s a steep climb up some vertical metal steps), and told us not to lean out of the window, for fear of hitting an overhanging branch (or something!) Either way, catching the train has to be safer than getting a boda boda or matatu taxi. The train trundled along quite slowly.
I love trains, I always have, I can’t help but get excited when I hear the whistle and the train slowly leaves the station.
Rift Valley Railways train pulling out of Kampala Railway Station – day 2 of the new passenger service from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu.
Rift Valley Railways train Kampala from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu.
Living next to the railway was a big part of the enjoyment of living in Namuwongo. As the train advanced down the track, the train would let out a long whistle, scattering folk who were selling their wares along the track! The ground would shudder as the passed just two metres from our compound wall.
“I saw the face of the train!” Our housegirl Eva shouted excitedly one day. (I guess that means it nearly ran her over!) The train had approached her front (face) on.
I was lucky enough to get the inside view of Kampala railway station last year, when it was open to the public (briefly) for the first time since 1984, thanks to some lobbying by Umeme and KCCA.
This was for the launch of the KLA ART Festival, boda boda recycled art display and gallery show. I miss European architecture, so it was a treat to access this building. Kampala Railway Station really is a treasure of a building, and I hope the original features continue to be maintained (and preserved) to the same standard. All credit to Rift Valley Railways for not letting this building fall apart through neglect, as so easily can happen. It’s an interesting snapshot of another era.
Our live updates from the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train went down a storm on social media; everyone seemed to have lots of questions about the train price, journey times, number of stops, age of the train, nationality of the train driver! Of course some people expect something for nothing, and one man was shocked at the ‘high price of’ the 1,500 UGX (Uganda shillings) for a ticket. Frankly that’s a total bargain if you can avoid sitting in a traffic jam… Amy and I asked around and it’s pretty impossible to get into central Kampala for less than that by any other means. (1500 UGX is around 50 US cents at the time of writing this in 2015).
For our virgin Ugandan train ride, Amy brought a bottle of champagne. “Orient Express” – eat your heart out! Our excitement, the great photo opportunities and waving at passers-by, meant our journey quickly passed before we even had time to think about breakfast or Champers…!
It shows how long it is since the train service ran: one Diary of a Muzungu Facebook fan, keen to try the service for himself, asked me where the station is. “Er…. in Station Road!” I replied. (The guy is probably in his 20s. The station has rarely been open to passengers during his lifetime, so how would he know anything about the railway station?) Apparently the passenger train last ran 20 years ago.
Older Kampala residents passed on illuminating comments about the railway’s history. Vali told me how he used to catch the train to boarding school in Nairobi from Kampala railway station, back in the day. Eric told me that he used to go to school along Old Port Bell Road. “The train was always punctual. When it departed Kampala railway station, it let out a whistle. We always knew that the whistle signalled school break time!” You may imagine yourself back in Kampala of the 1950s if you visit Malcolm McCrow’s East African railway photos and anecdotes.
CHOO-CHOO! Train coming through!
I’m sure the passenger train service will be a big hit with a lot of people, although capacity of 4,000 UGX is not a lot. Several of my Facebook Fans plan to take the trip, and I highly recommend it, simply to see another side of Kampala. Have you ever seen the workings of one of Kampala’s abattoirs? It’s a different world out there!
UPDATE 2021: The Kampala commuter train service is now run by Uganda Railways Corporation. The passenger train takes four trips every weekday between Namanve and central Kampala. The 45-minute journey stops at Nakawa (MUBS), Spedag (zone 4), Kireka, Namboole and Namanve. The first train of the day leaves Namanve at 7 am. It arrives at Kampala main station at 7.45 am. In the evening, trains depart from Kampala main station at 5.30 pm and 7.50 pm. I could not see pricing information on the URC website but I don’t think it has changed significantly from the 1,500 UGX (one way) price we paid in 2015.
So what’s next for the railways in Uganda and East Africa?
The Rift Valley Railways Kampala train passenger service from Kampala to Namanve was a one-year pilot project. UPDATE 2021: The service is a success and is still running.
More interestingly, work has started on the development of the Standard Gauge Railway across East Africa. This article looks at the differences between the original railway line and the planned new one. Substantial investment is being made into Uganda’s infrastructure, from the Kenyan border to the border with Rwanda; up to South Sudan in the north and down south to Tanzania. The rationale for the project is to make it quicker and cheaper to move goods from Mombasa inland through the East African community. Apparently, rail will quarter the costs of transport, half the time it takes to move the goods, and make the roads safer for the rest of us. Many of Uganda’s roads have been developed over the last few years but the daily transit of thundering heavy goods vehicles quickly destroys them again.
Uganda Railways Corporation is also rehabilitating railway track between Kampala and Port Bell, and Tororo and Gulu.
On a personal level, the Muzungu’s next African train journey simply had to be the Nairobi to Mombasa overnight train with complimentary safari en route through Tsavo National Park. The history of the East African railway and the so-called ‘Lunatic Express’ is captivating (yet terrible in parts).
My short journey from Kampala railway station started my research into the history of East Africa’s development. I confess, I have become a total train geek! It’s incredible to think that Nairobi and modern Kenya all started through the development of the railway. The whole Lunatic Express journey was fascinating from start to finish: the old-fashioned train compartments, the impromptu safari, the history of East Africa, and so much more. The Nairobi to Mombasa train is notorious for breaking down in the middle of nowhere… (but then the Muzungu was marooned in the middle of Lake Victoria on the ill-fated MV Templar for a whole night this week…) so anything is possible when she travels! In fact you may recall this cross-border travel misadventure.
Loved reading your report! It was 1964 when I travelled by sea to Mombasa then by rail to Kampala, to take up a post as Nursing Sister in Mbarara. What memories. I met my husband of 49 years there, we married and our 3 sons were born there. We had to leave in late 1972 during Amin’s reign for the safety of our children.
In 1998 we returned as VSOs with Hospice Uganda for 2 yrs. In 2006 we returned with our sons and their families to celebrate our wedding anniversary.
Thanks for what you are doing for our wonderful people of Uganda.
Dear Clare, thanks for sharing your lovely memories. It’s fascinating hearing how the trains in East Africa impacted so many people’s lives.
Interesting that you and your husband were VSO volunteers too. Being a VSO in Uganda is one of the best things I’ve ever done. Do come back and visit Uganda!
Dear Clare:
Thanks for your nostalgic trip on old Kenya Uganda Railway (now Rift Valley Railway). It is remarkable for KCCA to revive this section of the railway service.
IIn 2012 with my family I took a trip from Mombasa to Nairobi in first class. Things had changed from olden classy, elegant times. I travelled by this train several times from Jinja to Mombasa as I was born in Uganda and grew up in Kenya. Had to leave beutiful “Pearl of Africa” in 1972 courtesy of President Idi Amin!!!!
Thanks for sharing your memories Kish. Do you still live in #Kenya?
we will visit Uganda in january , some advice on having a low cost safe vacation is very much appreciated.
Hi Max, let me email you some ideas. Plenty of low cost options available in Uganda, especially community tourism, camping or homestays, tho not often promoted by tour companies. As for safety, Uganda is very safe for tourists. Ugandans are wonderfully welcoming people too. You will love the Pearl of Africa!
Great to hear about the return of passenger trains to Uganda, very small start but got to start somewhere. The new standard gauge project sounds fantastic but I don’t think any of us will be holding our breath! In terms of East African train travel I can recommend the TAZARA train in Tanzania, I caught it down in the south-west of Tanzania overnight all the way back to Dar-es-Salaam. Wonderful experience including travelling through the Selous national park seeing fantastic wildlife from the train!
I think the standard gauge railway project will transform freight transport across East Africa. It has some big money behind it. Whether this will then develop passenger capacity is a different matter…
Thanks for the TAZARA train recommendation. Sounds fantastic! Just my kind of journey… You’re very welcome to share your story on my blog. My only Tanzania story – so far – was written by a Ugandan friend of mine who climbed Kilimanjaro.
Hi Am a Diary of a Muzungu blog fan and i love the way you bring out your veiws about uganda, travelling in the train is actually fan
thanks
Hi Mercy, I loved that train journey – as you can tell! Hoping to travel on the Lunatic Express (Nairobi to Mombasa) in a couple of weeks time…
I took my first trip yesterday from Kireka to Kampala.
It was awesome and can’t now think of any other better way to travel to work.
Nice Blog by the way
Thanks for the appreciation 🙂
Isn’t the train from Kireka to Kampala brilliant? How many people were on the train? Is it become popular?
This weekend I’m taking the so-called ‘Lunatic Express’ train: from Nairobi to Mombasa – Kenya train blog coming soon…
I was brought up in Uganda and left in 1970 though for the last 10 years have been back annually to visit my brother who returned to Uganda to live. My elder sister and I went to school in Eldoret so used to take the train beginning and end if each term. The journey took about 12 hours but it was great fun. Am hoping to sample it when I visit in June.
Hi Jackie, I always love hearing people’s stories of previous lives in Uganda. A number of people have shared their schoolday memories associated with the train journeys.
Tomorrow I’m taking the ‘Lunatic Express’ from Nairobi to Mombasa for the first time … a real travel bucket list dream come true!
Interesting experience, I eagerly look forward to following in this encounter personally.
Highly recommended! For commuting – and tourism too 🙂
This was insightful and intriguing. I am here only for this weekend and was hoping for a train, even e a commuter train, but it is not to be. However, yours was the only site that actually said that this was M-F only! Thanks so much.
Hello Doug, thanks for the positive feedback.
Hmmmm – yes it is notoriously difficult to find reliable information about Uganda online!
Rift Valley Railways do occasionally put on a Saturday train e.g. if there is a football match at Namboole Stadium.
I hope you enjoy Kampala. If planes, trains and automobiles are your thing, I recommend Walter’s boda boda tours, the best way to see Kampala, especially if you’re only here for a brief visit. Please mention the Muzungu 🙂
Nice blog thanks………AND………you are fit!
lol, thanks Joseph!
The Rift Valley Railways saga continues to run – even if the trains themselves don’t! Most recent stories at bottom…
Daily Monitor, Sunday October 8 2017
Government cancels Rift Valley Railways deal
January 2018
Uganda Railways Finally Takes Over from Rift Valley Railways
January 31, 2018
Who messed up Uganda Railways?
February 9, 2018
RVR fights to retain railway operations in Uganda
I read your article with great interest as I wanted to learn more about the current railway situation. In 1964 I arrived at the port of Mombasa and boarded a train for Kampala. I have little recollection of the rail journey, except the first morning in Kenya when looking out for wildlife from a railway carriage. I made regular trips by car from Kampala to Nairobi with stops at Tororo, Eldoret, Nakuru and Gilgil. What fascinating and beautiful scenery along the way. Can we still travel by rail from Kampala to Nairobi?
Thanks for sharing your experiences of travelling by rail across East Africa – I always love hearing these stories.
Oh that we could travel by rail from Kampala to Nairobi – but sadly not – although the commuter train from Kampala to Namanve does still run (a friend took it very recently).
Did you read my blog about the Lunatic Express? That was an epic trip beyond compare! (It may jog a few memories for you). A year or so later, we took the Standard Gauge Railway train from Mombasa to Nairobi, a rather sanitised affair by comparison, but a very good and popular service.
You may be interested in two recent updates about the rail situation here. There is a plan to bring the SGR from Kenya through Uganda and on to South Sudan, Rwanda, Burundi but it has suffered delays. Reports are a little contradictory but here goes:
October 30th 2018 Government puts SGR on hold over unresolved issues
November 2nd 2018 ‘We haven’t abandoned or delayed SGR’ Government
To make the situation even more interesting, consider this angle:
Dar es Salaam to Kigali railway gets boost after Uganda / Kenya SGR dispute
I regularly travel between Kampala and Nairobi. Jambojet offer the best prices (if you can book in advance). If I’m going by road, I take the Mash bus.
It was lovely to go through your blog, fascinating to see how you so easily took on like a duck takes to water.
Fascinated to see so many changes have taken over the years.
We have added you to our website, please feel free to let us know if we can be of any help in further promoting of your Blog…Best of luck..
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Dear Ebrahim asante sana and marhaba! Thank you so much for connecting with me. Your website looks fantastic! It’s just the kind of resource I absolutely love. I’m going to have a good read of it tonight. I will definitely be in touch with you!
Have you read my Mombasa blog? What a fascinating city, still so much I need to explore…