It’s ever hot in Kasese as we check on the ex-poachers clearing papyrus on Lake George to make way for the new marine ranger station
I woke to the sound of birds (and possibly a baboon!) this morning at the Uganda Wildlife Authority hostel on the Mweya peninsula in Queen Elizabeth National Park. A fantastically beautiful place tho the accommodation is very basic: only 1 tap works, the curtains don’t close and there are no hangers on the rail. But boy was the bed comfy!
An 8 hr journey from Kampala – and I’d slept for 3 hours of that – but still slept like a log in Mweya.
Just killing time in an internet café in Kasese – it’s always very hot here – while we try and get in contact with the company who are transporting our converted shipping container to Kahendero on Lake George. This is the site for our latest Marine Ranger Station and last week my UCF colleague Patrick was on site overseeing a team of 25 ex-poachers cut back 1200 square metres of Hippo Grass and Papyrus (much of it 2 metres high) along the Lake edge. It’s very tough work, all done by hand, but the men were disappointed the work came to an end. There’s not much round here apart from fishing and cattle grazing (often within in the Park and therefore illegal too). The cement company Hima is a big (and controversial) local employer.
This large catfish was an unexpected bonus for the team of ex-poachers clearing the papyrus on Lake George. The fish was divided between the labourers and taken home for dinner
The villagers at Kahendero are naturally suspicious – many of them are fishing illegally (using undersize nets, fishing outside designated areas etc) – as we roll up with UWA rangers. This is essentially a subsistence community but because of their location on the Park edge, they receive 20% of Park revenues to spend on business investment, income generation and so on. Each community decides where the money is spent and this is managed by UWA who also spend time ‘sensitising’ the community on conservation issues.
Ex-poachers clearing papyrus Lake George PHOTO UCF
People have to live and we recognise many depend on the land for grazing and Lake George for fishing but it has to be done sustainably and currently it’s not. By restricting certain activities we are actually giving them more control over their futures.
Hippo footprint outside the boat station, Northern Lake George
So where is the shipping container? And what is it for?
Converted shipping containers are regularly used for storage e.g. VSO has one in their compound in Muyenga. We’ve had windows and a door fitted to ours to make a secure storage unit for the boat. This – along with a week long life-saving and boat handling training programme – equips UWA to intercept and arrest poachers on the Lake and rescue fishermen (many of whom can’t swim). Kahendero is UCF’s 5th such set-up but is strategically placed on the north of Lake George, an area of high illegal activity, so possibly the most sensitive.
About the riots…
It all kicked off yesterday in Kampala.
First msg I got when mobile network back on was from VSO Emergency number: “Riots in Kampala. Please avoid town.”
The Kabaka (King) of the Baganda tribe was advised by the government not to visit a certain area for fear of starting a fight. Govt was damned if it did interfere, damned if it didn’t – so I understand. There were demos in town and the army was called in after a policemen was killed. Several people have been injured, two (?) killed. It’s in a specific area of town (other side of the city, far from Namuwongo) in response to a particular issue so nothing to get unduly worried about.
Just read up that three people were killed including a child in a shop who was not involved. Sounds just as dodgy where you are now Charlie B. I'm sure you aren't popular with the poachers. Take care my lovely
Oh and the date is auspicious. Of course the Twin Towers anniversary and ours 44 years. Just had lunch with Peter and Jenny at Burford.
Hi Cha – v frustrated as ust lost a huge long letter to you!!! You sound as busy and endangered yourself as ever – can't believe how time is flying. Nearly your birthday – anything I can send? Had to get yet MORE removal men in as purchase of my flat finally happened – where are lots of strong (and free) strapping young men when I need them?
Have you contacted my chum Rachel yet re travelling to S Africa? She's lovely with a huge sense of fun but also incredibly practical so please get loads of free advice from her (she's lived there for a while, back here now – will re-email her email by separate private email).
With loads and loads of love
Emma xxxooo
Hi Em
Tx for your lovely msg. Yes life here still has many exciting moments … but if I published all my moans and groans (there's a list believe me!) I fear I wd lose half my readers!
Completely forgot about yr friend Rachel in SA … can u send me her email address again pls?
Hope you're enjoying your shared pad.
LOL Cha x x
PS I always copy text in here before I post it just in case it gets lost.
PPS b'day …hmmm I'll have think about it 🙂
Back in town this evening after 12 hr bus journey with babies and chickens and 'muchomo' cooked meat on skewers being waved at us thru the coach windows.
Town seems back to normal after the w/end disturbances.
Hi Charlie Just had 3 hour journey back from Wales!! Home is getting back to normal here to! Our lives seem to be running in unison! Great blog and please let me have postal address for your birthday. Lots of love Sal