“Echoes from Mountains of the Moon” by Dr. Lilly Ajarova
To mark International Women’s Day, I celebrate an extraordinary Ugandan woman: Dr. Lilly Ajarova, a lifelong champion of wildlife, conservation and tourism who has documented her most inspiring adventure – hiking to the 5,109 metre glacial summit of the Rwenzoris’ Margherita Peak – in Echoes from Mountains of the Moon.
As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know, I adore a travelogue! Lilly’s account ticks all the boxes for me; it’s a story of adventure, setting a personal goal and experiencing the wild in all its fabulousness!
Lilly’s book is endorsed by a number of eminent conservationists and adventurers:
Through Lilly’s eyes, you will marvel at the breath-taking beauty of the everchanging landscape of the fabled Mountains of the Moon. You will witness the extraordinary courage and endurance of this remarkable Ugandan woman as she conquers exhaustion and altitude sickness to reach the summit of Africa’s third-highest mountain. In Echoes from Mountains of the Moon, Lilly Ajarova highlights the urgent need to protect this awe-inspiring scenery and preserve the culture of the mountain people for generations to come. Echoes from Mountains of the Moon is a very inspiring story. It demonstrates the resilience of a woman with the heart of a lion. I wholeheartedly encourage you to read it and share its message with your friends.
Jane Goodall, PhD, DBE. Founder, Jane Goodall Institute & UN Messenger of Peace
People tackle the Rwenzori in different ways. Some simply climb to the top and then come down. Job done. Others, like Lilly Ajarova, immerse themselves in the mountain and absorb its unique meld of history, botany, meteorology, geology, hydrology, economics, tradition, culture, religion, warfare, wildlife, conservation and more. Lilly has been to the top of the Rwenzori and her keen eye has taken in all of the above facets of this fascinating massif. To her further credit, she has chosen to share her observations with us in Echoes from Mountains of the Moon. Of course, much has been written about the Rwenzori. Since Henry Stanley chronicled the first known ascent by his lieutenant, William Stairs in 1888, a veritable library has accumulated on the subject. In addition to their common theme, all of these preceding volumes have something else in common; all are written by men. Lilly’s memoir is, to the best of my knowledge, the first published offering from a female, which is all the better for it. To the shelves of books penned by (white) males, we can add a fresh and wide-ranging account by a Ugandan woman facing her greatest challenge. For the Rwenzori is not a realm to be entered lightly; it demands as much from the climber, in terms of physical and mental commitment, as it gives by way of its myriad rewards. Immerse yourself in the Rwenzori with Lilly Ajarova. Then – for how can you fail to be inspired by her tale – to climb this remarkable mountain yourself.
Andrew Roberts, Author, Mountaineer & Conservationist
A hike with a purpose
Lilly’s journey to the summit of the Rwenzoris was not just a personal triumph – her moments of doubt and utter exhaustion were so relatable – but also a call to action: nowhere is climate change more clearly visible than on the melting glaciers of Margherita Peak, Uganda’s highest point at 5109 metres. With the support of UNDP, Lilly and her team undertook this trek to highlight the threats to the Rwenzoris and the communities that depend on it.
This memoir chronicles that journey—a deeply personal one—that I hope will inspire you to visit these majestic mountains and support efforts to conserve their delicate ecosystems. Climbing the Rwenzoris is not for the faint of heart. The trails wind through lush forests, steep bamboo groves, and misty heather zones before the glaciers reveal themselves—both awe-inspiring and humbling. It is a path filled with challenges, both physical and mental.
Dr Lilly Ajarova, Author “Echoes from Mountains of the Moon”
Why the Rwenzoris matter
The Rwenzori Mountains National Park spans 996 square kilometres. It is a UNESCO World Heritage Site, a Ramsar site (for its wetlands) and an Important Bird Area (a site of international importance), being home to a remarkable diversity of “Albertine Rift endemics,” species that are uniquely found in this particular corner of our world. Protecting this ecosystem is crucial for biodiversity. Everything in nature is interconnected, including our own survival. The pandemic and the spread of zoonotic diseases (exacerbated by population growth and climate change) have brought this into sharp relief.
A personal note from Diary of a Muzungu
Lilly and I first met in 2009 when we worked with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. She was a director of UCF, and the CEO of Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary; I was UCF’s marketing development manager, and a VSO volunteer. In a blog post from 2021, “The euphoric Rwenzoris” on Diary of a Muzungu, Lilly shared her personal feelings about climbing Uganda’s highest peak. Her words resonated deeply with me and I was honoured to be invited to help edit her book.
A celebration of conservation and tourism
The book launch, at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s poolside, was a gathering of Uganda’s tourism champions and friends, as well as the team who climbed with Lilly and shared her passion – and exhaustion! – after this tough nine-day expedition. Coincidentally, the event also marked the end of her tenure as CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board, a position she held for six years.
Where to buy “Echoes from Mountains of the Moon”
For those eager to read Lilly’s inspiring journey:
- Hardback copies are available at Aristoc Bookshop in Kampala at UGX 100,000.
- The e-book is available on Amazon.com
- You can also order directly through Lilly’s website.
I know from my own experience climbing Mount Elgon (at 4321 metres) how demanding these multi-day mountaineering hikes are. (I still want to climb the Rwenzoris but reading Lilly’s experience is sobering and a reminder of the many months training you need to put in).
I recently did the one-day hike of Karungura Peak, climbing over a thousand metres above Bundibugyo, into Rwenzori Mountains National Park and down towards Fort Portal. It was tough! For most of the six-hour hike, we climbed. (At least that’s how it felt!) For the next two days, every part of me ached: my feet, my hips, my thighs, my everything! One day was enough. Could I possibly keep going the next day, and the next and the next, as a climb to Margherita or Weissmann’s, for example, demands? Our Karungura hike coincided nicely with Lilly’s book editing project; the two experiences have made me even more curious about exploring this incredible mountain, its waterfalls, fifty lakes and funky vegetation.
Lessons from the mountains for women everywhere
Lilly’s story is a reminder that real change starts with individuals who care enough to act. Whether we support conservation initiatives, try to reduce our carbon footprint, or simply keep physically and mentally fit so we can support the people around us, we all have a role to play. On this Women’s Day, let’s celebrate Lilly’s achievements by taking steps – big or small – to protect the wild places and its creatures that she so passionately champions.
