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About the Muzungu

Diary of a Muzungu follows my adventures across Uganda & East Africa.

A few years ago I jacked in a good job in London, packed up my life and let a stranger move into my flat… was I mad?

Diary of a Muzungu records the highs and lows of a British woman living and working in a developing country. Culture shock, my (mis)interpretation of Ugandan culture and African society, expat life, wildlife experiences and adventures, work trips to the bush (yes I got paid to go on safari!) walking my recycled street dogs through Kampala’s slums, travel across Africa, birding, conservation, tourism and my luck (or otherwise!) finding a man – it’s all on here.

Diary of a Muzungu featured on Lonely Planet between 2009-2012, encouraging me to develop my travel writing and daydream about writing a book. Diary of a Muzungu was twice voted ‘Best Tourism Digital Media’ in Uganda’s Tourism Excellence Awards. In 2022, I was nominated in the Africa Travel 100 Women; I came no. 2 in the online vote THANK YOU. As a result, I was named Best Africa Promoter at Akwaaba African Travel Market in Lagos, Nigeria.

Charlotte Diary of a Muzungu, Solomon Oleny, Shaban Senyange, Uganda Tourism Excellence Awards 2017
Charlotte Diary of a Muzungu, Solomon Oleny, Shaban Senyange, Uganda Tourism Excellence Awards 2017. Dress by Kyaligonza

More of an obsession than a hobby (!) Diary of a Muzungu comprises 300+ African (mostly Ugandan) travel stories. “The Dairy” – as I am affectionately called by some Ugandans – is delighted to live in this beautiful and hospitable country and honoured by the praise I receive for sharing my adventures with you all (even when this praise is from random strangers in public toilets!)

Who is the Muzungu?

“Bampita Nagawa” – they call me Nagawa – and I am from the Enkima Red-tailed Monkey clan.

A Ugandan diet heavy in carbohydrates have helped me develop that most African of assets: a kabina. As if physical proof were not enough, a supermarket assistant stopped me in the aisle last week to announce loudly to the world:

“Madam, you have a BIG BUM!”

It was a compliment.

Did I choose Uganda or did Uganda choose me?

I’d wanted to live in Africa since I was a teenager – but do I know why? – and finally touched down here in Uganda in 2009.

Diary of a Muzungu started as a way of keeping in contact with my family when I came to Uganda as a volunteer. I’d always yearned to ‘do something meaningful’ and finally I’d been offered my dream job: working with local people to tackle wildlife poaching and address human wildlife conflict. (How many organisations can include elephants as their ‘key stakeholders’?)

house office. Namuwongo. UCF team
My first house – and the UCF team office – in Namuwongo

The Muzungu was first sighted in Namuwongo, Kampala. Posing here at my home-cum-office with Uganda Conservation Foundation staff Patrick, Enid, Simpson and Eva

Dream job? Well, that’s how it looked on paper 4,500 miles away! As the diary recounts, life as an expat in Uganda has its frustrations – living with power cuts, slow internet and water shortages, Malaria, bureaucracy, surviving on a volunteer allowance, Kampala’s potholed roads, dust dust and more dust. Diary of a Muzungu quickly became the creative outlet I turned to when I found life in a developing country just a bit too challenging.

And so – in theory just for two years – my life in Africa life started as a VSO (Voluntary Service Overseas) volunteer (British equivalent of Peace Corps), working as the Marketing Development Manager for the Uganda Conservation Foundation who I continue to promote through my personalised Uganda photo maps. A percentage of every map sale goes to UCF, courtesy of map creator and former UCF Director Andrew Roberts

Uganda Conservation Foundation map
I created this photo map to celebrate Uganda Conservation Foundation’s ten year anniversary. Original map artwork by Andrew Roberts

Being a conservation volunteer was immensely rewarding: I am proud to have played a small part in UCF’s successful conservation initiatives with the Uganda Wildlife Authority and watch UCF’s profile grow. Read more about my work with UCF on my Interviews page.

‘Doing something meaningful’ has also involved having a seriously fun time in Kampala, the party capital of East Africa, and joining the legendary Hash House Harriers, for even more legendary trips to Jinja, Lake Victoria’s Ssesse Islands, Kenya and Ethiopia.

What is the Muzungu doing now?

Diary of a Muzungu’s love for conservation issues is not limited to elephants! I support In the Shadow of Chimpanzees and NatureUganda’s Big Birding Day. I’m a big fan of Ngamba Island Chimpanzee Sanctuary and Chimpanzee Trust, The Gorilla Organization, Conservation Through Public Health and other conservation initiatives. To wake up to Uganda’s birdsong every morning is a joy. I never tire of new things to write about in this beautiful country.

I am a guidebook writer, podcaster, Chartered Institute of Marketing manager and trainer. I promote birding, conservation and responsible tourism in Uganda and East Africa. I am passionate about tourism as a tool for development. Feel free to browse my portfolio of writing for other publications I write for. I specialise in marketing communications, blogging, digital marketing and social media.

How can I help you?

Check out my online Travel Directory for tourism businesses (lodges and campsites) and ‘Things to do.’

Feel free to contact me for travel tips, advice on buying gorilla permits, safari and tour itineraries and advice for expats moving to Kampala and Uganda. I frequently travel to Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania too.

I hope you enjoy reading Diary of a Muzungu as much as I enjoy writing it. Drop me an email, I’d love to hear from you.

The views expressed in this blog are my own, unless otherwise stated. All photos are my own, unless otherwise stated. Read the Muzungu’s full terms and conditions here.

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