Hiking in search of the Lucky Bean tree, Bwindi

Sep 19, 13

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Nkuringo Gorilla Lodge, in the far south western corner of Uganda, is the ideal starting point for: hikes through Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to Buhoma on the northern side of the Forest, walks to Lake Mutanda and journeys across the lake by dugout canoe towards Kisoro, as well as mountain biking and bird watching. It’s a popular place to stay if you plan to track gorillas from the trailheads at Nkuringo or Rushaga.

On my first stay at Nkuringo Gorilla Camp (which has grown over the years to be known as Nkuringo Gorilla Lodge) friends opted for the ‘one-day circular forest walk,’ starting at Nteko village and following the Ivy River trails and Kashasha River into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park. It was spectacular!

Walking safari into Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

As we walked downhill towards the River Ivy, our excellent guide Adolf listed some of the mammals we might see in the forest: a golden cat, civets, serval cats, jackals, flying squirrels, red tailed monkey, L’Hoest and black and white Colobus monkeys. The Muzungu’s wildlife wishlist for the day: a Blue Monkey, forest butterflies and some new ticks for my forest bird list please. (A gorilla sighting would be pretty cool too…)

We stopped at a swampy area before crossing the river to enter the park.

“One time we came here and the bridge had been washed away. We had to remove our clothes and walk across through the river,” Adolf told us.

“Even with clients?” I asked.

“Yes!” He laughed.

Safely across the water, Adolf welcomed us into the impenetrable forest. “If you take the wrong turning, you can get lost in the forest for seven days. It happened to someone I know from the village. They had to send out a search party for him.”

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest derives its name from the Mubwindi Swamp in the eastern part of the Forest; its full name being Mubwindi Nyamukari, named after a young woman who was ‘damped’ (drowned) by her father in the swamp. This was one of three local stories we heard of young women being drowned in swamps or waterfalls. Verdict: this was not the best place in the world for a girl to be born. In every story, it was the young woman who copped it every time while the man got away unscathed.

Back in the forest, Adolf warned us to beware the biting safari ants and pointed out the trails where forest hogs had crossed. He also showed us Wild Pineapple, Wild Ginger and the beautiful red Erythinia abyssinia ‘Lucky Bean Tree.’

The pods of the Lucky Bean Tree contain bright red seeds. Local people believe that if you find one of these seeds and put it in your pocket, you will be lucky for the whole day. The thorny structure of the tree is believed to ward evil spirits away too. The Lucky Bean Tree also has medicinal qualities: the ash from its bark can be applied to burns.

“I know it sounds like a silly question, but what does a Blue Monkey look like?” asked my friend Robert.

I never did hear the answer, as we were distracted trying to identify a bird – that turned out to be an enormous cricket!

Encounter with a Silverback

Adolf recounted the story of the day he was called from Nkuringo to Buhoma. This meant he had to walk through the middle of Bwindi Forest.

“As I was moving, we came across a group of 19 gorillas sitting on the track. In the middle was the Silverback gorilla. I had a big stick and I stood back, watching him, and moving very gently. The Silverback started snapping branches on either side of the trail.”

Adolf imitated the low pitched growling of the Silverback. The other gorillas joined in, displaying sounds of annoyance at having been disturbed.

“I didn’t want to turn back. Clients were expecting me in Buhoma.”

“Couldn’t you just wait until they moved?” I asked him.

“It would have been dark by then in the forest. It was already 6 o’clock in the evening.

The Silverback came towards me with his mouth wide open, thumping his chest, screaming at me!

I had to walk backwards, slowly but still facing him. The Silverback mirrored my pace. I took two steps, he took two steps… then I took off running!”

“Was he chasing you?” I asked.

“Yes!” answered Adolf.

“I had turned my walking stick at an angle and the Silverback thought I was going to hit him.” (Adolf imitated the gorilla covering his head with his hands as if to protect himself).

“After some time, the Silverback slowly walked back to his family. I managed to get out of the forest by 8 o’clock. It was completely dark by then. I slowly walked back towards where the gorillas were and walked around them. It was the Nkuringo family of gorillas.”

After hearing Adolf’s alarming gorilla tale, the Muzungu decided to reconsider her wildlife wishlist for the day. I was very happy to settle for some birding highlights that included:

• Brown-throated wattleeye
• White-eyed slaty flycatcher
• Paradise flycatcher
• Black-billed turaco
• Dusky long-tailed cuckoo

The total tracking time was around six hours, in which we covered 17.5 km (most of which seemed to be uphill!) Our steadfast guide Adolf paced our walk just right and I thoroughly enjoyed the whole experience, even the steep bits!

It was on our final ascent that we came across a Lucky Bean Tree, right next to our path. Guess which Lucky Bean put the seed in her pocket?

An alternative hike is from Kisoro

After a 90-minute walk to Lake Mutanda, there’s a 2 ½ hour dugout canoe trip north to Rwajenje. (Don’t worry about overexerting yourself: the tour includes a comfy seat, lifejacket and a man to paddle you, while you take photos of the volcanic peaks reflected in the lake). The gentle padding is followed by a 9km / 3-hour walk along community trails up to Rubuguri Junction; here you can be picked up for the final 10km uphill to Nkuringo Gorilla Lodge.

The view from Nteko Ridge

Nteko Ridge is the highest point: there’s nothing between you and Bwindi’s lush rainforest for miles left and right, on one side of the hill and a staggering EIGHT volcanic peaks on the opposite side of the hill.

Volcanoes and rainforests have their own unique weather patterns so the visibility can’t be guaranteed. For me though, that’s half the fun. Wake and look out the window “what will I see today?”

If you’ve never seen a rainforest before, you must visit Bwindi Impenetrable Forest: it’s incredibly dense and incredibly green. THERE ARE A LOT OF TREES. The air is pure and the National Park has almost unimaginable biodiversity. I tingle, just remembering it all.

Gorilla trekking information

The Nkuringo gorilla family group is just a few minutes walk from Nkruringo Gorilla Lodge. Robert Brierley advised us that tracking the gorilla families in Rushaga involves a 23km / 55 minute drive from the lodge. Interested in trekking the gorillas in Uganda? Read Diary of Muzungu’s guide to gorilla trekking. My guide is based on many years’ trekking the gorillas, working with conservation organisations, lodges, guides and tour operators. You can also contact me directly for recommendations.