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Virunga Lodge: a 360-degree view of Rwanda’s volcanoes and lakes

A luxury gorilla safari with Volcanoes Safaris

Virunga Lodge Rwanda volcanoes. Luxury gorilla safari Rwanda at Virunga Lodge
Settings do not get more dramatic than this! 😍

Misty volcanic peaks and lakes dotted with small islands are the backdrop to the sensational Virunga Lodge, our base for a luxury gorilla safari, a 45 minute drive from Kinigi, the starting point for Rwanda’s gorilla trekking.

Virunga Lodge gorilla trekking Rwanda. children. Lake Ruhondo
Children by the roadside above Lake Ruhondo en route to Virunga Lodge

The volcano and lake geography combined to give us constantly changing weather. I was quite absorbed by it. At one point, a thick white fog completely obscured the volcanoes and Lakes Ruhondo and Bulera (Burera). The mist unveiled the volcanoes, one peak at a time. Every few minutes, I looked up to see the view evolve as the day progressed. Later, bright sunshine showed the detail of the villages far below us.

Virunga Lodge luxury gorilla trekking Rwanda
Constantly changing weather makes for unforgettable views

The main living and dining area of Virunga Lodge is perched on the top of a hill, 2300 metres above sea level. (Adjacent is a large football field cum helicopter pad cum stage for traditional Rwandese dancing by the charming and engaging Intore dancers).

Virunga Lodge is a luxury Rwanda gorilla trekking option
The eclectic range of seating in and outside the main living area encourages guests to take in the panoramic views.

I loved the African inspired décor: tribal art from the Congo, Rwandese wall hangings, black and white photographs and the library of conservation and travel related books. Snug in the huge living room, amongst the stacks of funky cushions, with an open fire burning in the late afternoon, the Muzungu planned her next East African adventure.

primatologist Julia Lloyd's treehouse in Kibale Forest
Spotted! The book opened on the photo of my good friend and primatologist Julia Lloyd, and her former treehouse deep inside Kibale Forest

I loved the colour combination of Virunga Lodge’s interiors, intimate at night when candlelit. We all loved the food: the salmon mousse went down particularly well. The soups were heavenly and perfect for the chilly nights on the hill.

Virunga Lodge gorilla trekking Rwanda
Virunga Lodge offers a prettily presented ‘taste of Rwanda’ as one of the menu options. Try it!

It hardly needs saying but: our Rwanda luxury gorilla safari trekking was an incredible experience – and without doubt lived up to the hype.

Becca Hensley wrote a wonderful account of our trek to see Rwanda’s mountain gorillas. Suffice to say, two weeks later, back in the city, and I’m still dreaming about our magical gorilla trekking encounter in the bamboo forest.

Virunga Lodge luxury gorilla trekking Rwanda
The gorillas pushed right past us! Our Rwanda gorilla trekking through the bamboo forest was a magical experience

The music and good humour of the Intore Troupe’s traditional dancing were infectious. They weren’t taking no for an answer when they pulled us up onto our feet to dance with them!

The backdrop to their grassy stage were the peaks of Mounts Muhavura, Gahinga, Sabyinyo, Karisimbi and Visoke.

traditional dancing Rwanda Intore
With the Virunga volcanoes in the background, I will never forget the jaw-dropping stage setting for the Intore Dancers. Sensational.
Intore Dancers perform at Virunga Lodge, Rwanda

About Virunga Lodge

Virunga Lodge luxury gorilla trekking Rwanda
Circling the top of Virunga Lodge’s own private hill, each banda has a different view.

The twin Bulera banda’s wide veranda opens on to views high above Lake Bulera and its islands. The bandas are very spacious and well-equipped with a personal safe, a torch and solar lamp – even your own umbrella (indispensable in this part of the world!)

Virunga Lodge gorilla trekking Rwanda
Inside the twin Bulera banda, Virunga Lodge, Rwanda

The sensors for the bathroom lights confused me to start with (as I was poised to insert a contact lens and the bathroom suddenly went black!) but I admired the considerable eco-efforts, here and throughout Volcanoes Safaris’ lodges.

Virunga Lodge bathroom banda. Randazoo
The shower in my room was hot and powerful (and driven by solar energy). Photo Randazoo
Virunga Lodge Deluxe Banda
One of the deluxe bandas at Virunga Lodge. Photo Randazoo

Two of the bandas are now deluxe standard, with huge living space, and open fireplaces in the bedroom, private sitting room and outside on the veranda, perfect for honeymooners!

Upon arrival at Virunga Lodge, we were greeted with fresh sweet tree tomato juice and friendly staff who seemed only too happy to carry our big bags up to our banda rooms for us. The living and dining area is at the top of the hill, thus there is a short (but quite steep) walk from your banda.

dining room Virunga Lodge luxury gorilla safari
I LOVED the dining room at Virunga Lodge – brightly coloured yet intimate

Virunga Lodge provides free Wi-Fi, but the lodge’s remote location means it may not be as good a connection as you’re used to back home. The Muzungu’s advice? Leave the laptop at home, catch up on some reading, make some new friends and take the 360 degree views.

Activities from Virunga Lodge

The below are all included in the price of an overnight stay at Virunga Lodge:

  • Traditional dance performance by the Intore Dance Troupe
  • One complimentary massage
Virunga Lodge gorilla trekking Rwanda
Not to be missed! Traditional dance performance by the Intore Dance Troupe (a Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust supported project)
  • Birding / birdwatching in and around the lodge’s terraced gardens or further afield, with a bird guide.
  • A visit to the lodge’s Virunga Vocational Centre to learn about the community’s beekeeping and basket-weaving projects.
  • Learn about the life of Dian Fossey in Virunga Lodge’s Dian Fossey map room, a space that is perfect for small conferences and special occasions.

Additional activities from Virunga Lodge

Rwanda has 10 gorilla families that have been habituated for tourists to visit: Sabyinyo, Amahoro, Umubano, Susa, Kwitonda, Karisimbi, Agashya, Bwenge, Ugyenda and Hirwa. Generally it takes between one hour and half a day to trek a gorilla family in Rwanda, but it may take up to 7 hours to visit the Susa family. Trekking the gorillas in Rwanda is usually a little easier than gorilla trekking in Bwindi (Uganda), as the forest is less dense. It is a 45 minute drive from Virunga Lodge to the starting point of the gorilla trekking in Kinigi.

Virunga Lodge Rwanda dancing
Traditional dance performance by the Intore Dance Troupe at Virunga Lodge, Rwanda
  • Hike a volcano:
  • Karisimbi Volcano is the highest mountain in the Virunga chain at 4507 metres. Its (frequently) snow-capped peak gives it the alternative name of the “white shell” volcano. Warning: this two day walk (camp overnight) can be tough, wet and cold! The Karisimbi Volcano hike needs to be booked in advance.
  • The Visoke Volcano has the iconic cone shape. In its crater lies a deep lake (3,700m). While the hike up isn’t too demanding, nevertheless the altitude can affect climbers because of the sharp ascent. The walk takes about 5-8 hours. (If you are travelling with Volcanoes Safaris, this activity is included in the cost of your safari).
  • Famous primatologist Dian Fossey studied Mountain Gorillas in the foothills of Rwanda’s volcanoes. From Virunga Lodge, you can visit Dian Fossey’s grave, the graves of 30 Mountain Gorillas, and hear more about her ground-breaking work and legacy.
  • December 26, 2015 marked the 30th anniversary of Dian Fossey’s death. Who murdered her is still not known, but it’s certain that her passion for protecting the mountain gorillas made her many enemies.
  • In this short video clip, Praveen Moman, owner of Virunga Lodge, discusses Dian Fossey’s legacy and the importance that ethically managed ecotourism plays in the protection of the gorillas.
  • Trek to see the endangered but beguiling Golden Monkeys.
Three Golden Monkeys in trees Mgahinga Gorilla National Park Uganda
I trcaked the rare Golden Monkeys from Mount Gahinga Lodge, Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge in Uganda
  • A stay at Virunga Lodge is highly recommended if you are invited to attend Kwita Izina, the annual gorilla naming ceremony.
  • Lodge prices for foreign non-residents are all inclusive (three superb meals plus afternoon tea and snacks, all alcoholic drinks and a variety of community-based activities). Occasionally, there are special offers for local residents.

If you want to stay in a real ecolodge, then you will love Virunga Lodge.

Ecotourism is a word that’s often used but very few lodges live up to the title. Investments such as solar energy, rainwater harvesting, and low flushing eco-toilets are just some of the lodge’s environmentally friendly features. Active development of community projects (at this and other Volcanoes Safaris lodges) are key to the company’s vision.

The Virunga Community Projects support activities that enhance the livelihood of local communities and in turn support the survival of the great apes. “We believe (carefully controlled) ecotourism is essential to the survival of the great apes and that local people need to earn a livelihood if they are to appreciate the importance of protecting our closest primate relatives and their habitats.”

Virunga Lodge gorilla trekking Rwanda
Below the lodge, a lady dries onions in the sunshine

If you’ve travelled halfway round the world for a once-in-a-lifetime encounter with the gorillas, I would highly recommend staying at Virunga Lodge. We flew from Entebbe, Uganda to Kisoro with Aerolink and then drove across the border. You may come for the gorillas, but you will stay for the views – and the food! And the friendliest staff! – it all adds up to an unforgettable experience.

This blog is based on my personal experience. Thank you to Volcanoes Safaris for inviting me on this journalist’s trip and thank you to luxury travel writers Becca Hensley and Margie Goldsmith for all their tips and great stories!

Can you name Mgahinga’s volcanoes?

Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

“Mgahinga is my favourite place in the whole of Uganda!” my friend Julia told me once, yet I’m amazed at how few people talk about the place: I fell for Mgahinga too! It’s perfect for a weekend break from Kampala or Kigali, for: gorilla tracking, volcano climbing, hiking, walking, bird watching, golden monkey trekking, traditional Batwa dancing and culture – and a smart, homely lodge.

Our journey to the volcanoes started with a morning flight from Entebbe.

The sound of drumming … a girl singing next to the river behind my banda … birdsong in the green, lush gardens … Mount Gahinga Lodge was just what I needed.

Approaching Mgahinga and the Virunga volcanoes from Kisoro
Approaching Mgahinga and the Virunga volcanoes from Kisoro. From left to right: Mount Muhuvura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabinyo

From the tiny Kisoro airstrip, our driver Sam took us on the one hour drive to Mount Gahinga Lodge. He pointed out the gahinga, piles of volcanic rock, dug out of the gardens, on sale in neat piles at the side of the road. We peered up at the volcanoes of the weather-battered Mount Sabinyo ‘Old Man’s Tooth’ and the distinctive Mount Muhuvura, ‘the Guide.’

Mount Gahinga Lodge is located on the edge of Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (MGNP), Uganda’s smallest national park, part of the Virunga Conservation Area “Virunga Massif” that links with national parks in Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

Batwa community traditional dancing, Mgahinga Uganda
Batwa community traditional dancing, Mgahinga Uganda. A project supported by Volcanoes Safaris and Mount Gahinga Lodge

Hot chocolate and the friendliest staff welcomed us at Mt Gahinga for a late breakfast: a plate of mixed fruit, followed by a variety of cooked breakfasts, freshly baked bread and local honey. The excellent coffee is produced at Volcanoes Safaris’ sister lodge in Kyambura Gorge, Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Luckily, we had a variety of physical activities lined up for us to justify the already bulging waistlines!

Batwa boys in fields of Mgahinga Uganda
Batwa boys in the fields of Mgahinga Uganda. Note the volcanic ‘gahinga” rock

Mgahinga is an inspiring location and a great base if you’re a hiker or walker. On day one, we hiked across cool, undulating countryside between fields of potatoes in delicate purple flower. Herbert, Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust Project Manager, pointed to the boundary of Mgahinga National Park; the ‘Buffalo wall’ that keeps the occasional four-legged intruder from damaging the farmers’ crops; and then showed us the Congo, on a distant horizon. As we walked, Herbert told us about the traditional life of the Batwa ‘pygmy’ people, former inhabitants of the Central Africa’s ancient forests.

Hike to meet Batwa community in Mgahinga Uganda
Hike to meet Batwa community in Mgahinga, Uganda

With minutes to spare, we arrived back at the lodge, just as it started to rain. Luck was to be the mainstay of our trip. Tea, silverback gorilla biscuits and crunchy caramelised nuts kept hunger at bay until dinner time as we snuggled inside the lodge around an open fire.

Gorilla biscuits. Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Uganda
Gorilla biscuits. Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Uganda

Outdoor activities off the agenda, I opted for Mount Gahinga Lodge’s complimentary massage in a cosy cabin in the grounds of the Lodge. The sound of the coals fizzing on the charcoal stove and the stream next to the cabin sent me into a lazy stupor.

Back in the living room, we sat around the now roaring fire for the first gin and tonic of the evening. Scrumptious three course evening meals included hearty soups and the best Tilapia I’ve eaten in a long time, served with fragrant rice and stir-fried vegetables. Another option was chicken and peanut sauce on a skewer, all followed by home-made apple crumble and custard. Oh yum!

Spot on 7.15 the next morning – as requested – there was a gentle tap on the door and a friendly voice announced the arrival of morning tea.

“Can I open the shutters for you?” He asked.

I jumped back into bed with tea. Note to self: on my next visit, I shall dedicate a whole day to just sitting in bed, drinking tea and reading.

The trek to see the playful golden monkeys, one of Africa’s rarest primates, on day two was a highlight of our trip. Our excellent Uganda Wildlife Authority guide Benjamin really added to the experience. “Golden Monkeys fear Crowned Eagles” he told us. “When the monkeys hear them, they come down from the trees to hide.”

As with trekking the mountain gorillas, the Uganda Wildlife Authority constantly monitor the whereabouts of the golden monkeys, so the chances of seeing them are very high.

Three Golden Monkeys in trees Mgahinga Gorilla National Park Uganda
Golden Monkeys Mgahinga Uganda. Photo courtesy of Margie Goldsmith

The hike to find the monkeys, through the bamboo forest, was just as much fun as seeing the primates themselves. The sightings of a shy Bushbuck and a sleepy Buffalo were unexpected bonuses. (Even our guide was surprised at our luck). We found a tortoise too!

Make sure to wear gaiters (which Mount Gahinga Lodge are happy to lend you) – or at least tuck your trousers inside long socks. (Even so, it’s not 100% guarantee that you’ll keep those tenacious Safari Ants out… )

The lodge’s Batwa Heritage Trail was fascinating and gave us a glimpse into this traditional culture. According to Batwa tradition, when an ancestor was ambushed and trampled by a buffalo during a hunt, the Batwa would immediately move on. After burying the body in the hut, muhanga ‘the mother of all herbs’ and umunanira leaves were picked from the Forest “to make a juice that was taken and the husks thrown behind the hut.” With the bad omens left behind, the hut would then be demolished and the Batwa nomads would move on to make another home elsewhere in the forest.

Batwa community leader Steve, invited us to use his bow and arrow. The Muzungu failed miserably in my attempt to hit the target …

Muzungu and bow and arrow. Batwa community Heritage Trail, Mgahinga Uganda. A project supported by Volcanoes Safaris and Mount Gahinga Lodge
Muzungu and bow and arrow. Batwa community Heritage Trail, Mgahinga Uganda. A project supported by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust and Mount Gahinga Lodge

Back at Mt Gahinga Lodge, Margie ‘the Pied Piper’ led an ensemble of more than a dozen harmonica players. It was quite a show.

The Batwa dancers perform at the lodge, several times a week. In addition, every Wednesday, they do a free performance for the community. Herbert told us how this weekly show has really helped build relationships between the Batwa and the Bafumbira, the other tribe in the village.

Traditional Batwa dancing Mount Gahinga Lodge
Traditional Batwa dancing, led by Steve. Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga.

About Mount Gahinga Lodge

Fragrant Eucalyptus permeated my Banda bedroom Nyiragongo, named after a volcano in the Congo that last erupted in 2002, destroying almost half of the city of Goma. (Hopefully nothing so dramatic was to happen in my named banda!)

Banda at Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Uganda
Banda at Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Uganda

The fire had been lit when I returned to my banda in the evening. Even better, the staff had secreted two hot water bottles into my bed under the layers of thick blankets What a treat! (Nights can be cold at Mgahinga).

Bedroom of newly refurbished Nyiragongo banda, Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga
Interior of Nyiragongo banda, Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga, Uganda

Based on the design of a traditional Batwa hut, each volcanic stone banda has its own colour scheme. Mine was a bright turquoise with matching Ugandan and Rwandese craft accessories. Mount Gahinga is an eco-lodge run on solar power, but I still enjoyed two hot showers.

Interior of newly refurbished Nyiragongo banda, Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga
Bright African prints decorate the interior of Nyiragongo banda, Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga

The Lodge offers free Wi-Fi, but the remote location of the lodge means you can’t rely on it too much. The Muzungu’s advice? Leave the laptop at home, enjoy some solitude or enjoy a sundowner around the open fire in the living room. Prices are all inclusive (three meals a day plus afternoon tea and snacks, all alcoholic drinks and a variety of community-based activities).

New friends, fantastic food and three activity packed days – made it hard to leave Mount Gahinga Lodge.

Staff at Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Uganda
Three heads are better than one! Staff helping the Muzungu put gaitors on before our Golden Monkey trek from Mount Gahinga Lodge, Mgahinga Uganda

The friendly, attentive staff really made us feel welcome. Mount Gahinga Lodge is a great weekend retreat. Next time I go, I plan to climb Mount Sabinyo!

Activities from Mount Gahinga Lodge

The below are all included in the price of an overnight stay at the lodge.

Complimentary massage.

Birding / bird watching. Planting around the Lodge is natural, encouraging a wide variety of bird species. Streaky Seedeaters are commonly seen in the garden. The park is full of spectacular bird life, including a wide range of Afro-montane endemic species, such as: the Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird, Langdon’s Bush-shrike, African Hill Babbler, Dusky Crimsonwing and the Rwenzori Turaco.

Batwa traditional dancing, Mount Gahinga Lodge Mgahinga Uganda
Batwa traditional dancing, Mount Gahinga Lodge Mgahinga Uganda

Traditional dance performance by the Batwa community and Batwa community Heritage Walk (supported by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust).

Yellow Trumpet Flowers
Yellow Trumpet Flowers line the road from Mount Gahinga Lodge to Mgahinga National Park

Community / scenic Walk. Mount Gahinga Lodge staff are very happy to take you on a walk through the Bafumbira villages. Learn how local baskets are made, watch a performance by a traditional harpist, visit an iron-smith, climb a caldera, enjoy the scenery and visit a local school. This stroll takes about 3 to 4 hours, although the route is not fixed.

Additional activities from Mount Gahinga Lodge

Hike one of the three volcanoes:

Mt. Gahinga (3,474m) is the least challenging climb of the three volcanoes on the Ugandan side. The round trip takes 7 hours and passes through farmland, bamboo and swamp up to the old crater.

Mt. Sabinyo (3,634m) is the second toughest of the three volcanoes. The reward for the steep climb is a chance to summit three countries simultaneously: Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo meet on the peak. This is a round trip of 9 hours.

Mt. Muhabura (4,127m) is also known as Mount Muhavura. Climbing the distinct cone shape of ‘the Guide,’ as it is known locally, is the most demanding. Although not a ‘technical’ climb, it can nevertheless be tough, sometimes cold and muddy. The round hike takes between eight and 10 hours but the ascent is well worth it, for the dramatic changes in vegetation, a chance to swim in a crater lake and breathtaking views as far north as the Rwenzori Mountains.

Gorilla tracking in Mgahinga

Updated 2023: According to the Uganda Wildlife Authority, the Nyakagezi habituated gorilla family of Mgahinga is one of Uganda’s most entertaining families. They also have five Silverbacks! Although at one point they frequently sauntered across the border into Rwanda, they have been permanent residents of Uganda’s forests for several years now. Where once we were hesitant to recommend gorilla tracking here (because we did not want anyone to be disappointed if the gorillas had absented themselves) we now heartily recommend it. During 2018, the Hirwa family from Rwanda also crossed into Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, where they could be tracked (with revenue for tracking split equally between Uganda and Rwanda). The Hirwa gorillas returned to Rwanda during 2020 – I wonder if they will return one day?

Once upon a time, gorilla tracking permits in Mgahinga could be booked at the last-minute. This is no longer the case since Rwanda increased their gorilla permits to $1500, pushing a lot more tourists to Uganda.

If you are interested in tracking the gorillas in Mgahinga, contact the Muzungu or the Uganda Wildlife Authority. Visit this page for the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s Tariff (price list) 2022. The tariff contains all National Park entry fees; hiking; gorilla, chimpanzee and golden monkey tracking permits; birdwatching, boat cruises; nature walks and more.

Batwa boy playing cards, Mgahinga, Uganda
Batwa boy playing cards, Mgahinga – he was so absorbed! The playing cards filled both hands.

Ecotourism is a word that’s often used but very few lodges deserve the title. Volcanoes Safaris really deliver. Investments such as solar energy, rainwater harvesting, and low flushing eco-toilets are just some of the environmentally friendly lodge features. The Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust supports activities that enhance the livelihood of local communities and in turn support the survival of the great apes. “We believe (carefully controlled) ecotourism is essential to the survival of the great apes and that local people need to earn a livelihood if they are to appreciate the importance of protecting our closest primate relatives and their habitats.” Volcanoes Safaris Ltd donate $100 to the VSPT from every full cost safari purchased.

Have you visited Mgahinga? Which volcano did you climb? Did you meet the Batwa?

Wake up and smell the coffee, Rift Valley style

Kyambura Gorge Lodge, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda

Day breaks over the Rift Valley and my early morning coffee has arrived, a wake-up call for my morning safari game drive in Queen Elizabeth.

“Game drive or lie-in? Game drive or lie-in?” I ponder. Hmmm…

Too many decisions, too early in the morning. I lie there in the huge double bed, the smell of the wonderfully aromatic Omwani coffee filling the room. My friends depart for the game drive and I decide I’ll opt for the birding walk along the top of Kyambura Gorge – and drift back to sleep.

Safari game drive Kyambura Gorge Lodge Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda

Everyone clambers onto Julia’s new Safari roof rack to watch a lion feeding on a freshly killed Kob on Kasenyi Plain. Safari game drive  from Kyambura Gorge Lodge , overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda

So far our Safari has taken us north from Kampala for a few days stay in Kibale Forest. From there we drive the magical back route, through the crater lakes and on down south, descending across the Savannah floor of the Rift Valley and into central Queen Elizabeth National Park.

After a few days sleeping in a cold treehouse with no electricity and no phone network, we’re looking forward to a couple of days of luxury. I briefly looked around Kyambura Gorge Lodge while passing on a previous trip and couldn’t believe my luck that I am about to spend a couple of days there with my group of 11 friends. We pass the journey pondering what to try out first: a massage or dip in the pool? Will we have time to visit all the community projects? Will we see elephants from the lodge?

As we navigate around the potholes on the low-lying roads crossing the Rift Valley, I point across to Kyambura Gorge, site of the chimp trekking. I wonder if the baboons will be waiting for us at the bottom of the hill?

The Lodge is perched high up on Kyambura Gorge, 1050 metres above sea level, with a 180° view across the Rift Valley with the Rwenzori Mountains in the far distance. On a clear day you can see across to the Blue Mountains of the Congo. Kyambura Gorge Lodge sits just outside Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda’s most popular park.

And so we arrive en masse: two very dirty vehicles chockablock full of tired and dusty travellers, a hungry toddler and assorted baggage. What a lovely welcome from the Kyambura Gorge Lodge staff! Even before we’ve reached our rooms, we feel at home. After a glass of fresh juice, the staff pick up our bags and we are quickly settled – even though we are a big group.

The view in every direction is breathtaking. The clever positioning of a telescope in the breakfast area immediately grabs this twitcher’s eye.

Swimming pool at Kyambura Gorge Lodge Queen-Elizabeth National Park Uganda

Is this the best pool in Uganda? Kyambura Gorge Lodge

The layout and decor are quite unlike any other lodge in Uganda. Many lodges tend to adapt the same style but Kyambura Gorge Lodge is in a league of its own. Each banda has its own colour scheme and ours was a mixture of blues. I loved the recycled MTN kiosk bedside cabinet! We stayed in Lumumba, so named after one of the Gorge’s chimps.

Each Banda is cleverly divided into sections to suit your every mood: a huge window seat cum day bed, a veranda with a wicker hanging basket chair – and a bed which is HUGE by any standards. I vote this possibly the most comfortable bed in Uganda.

To me there is nothing worse than going to a beautiful lodge in a natural setting and finding a load of Chinese-made plastic fittings in the bathroom. This couldn’t be further from the case at Kyambura Gorge, where there’s attention to detail in every aspect.

converted coffee house Kyambura Gorge Lodge Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda

The fabulous converted Coffee House is the centrepiece at Volcanoes Safaris’ Kyambura Gorge Lodge overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park

The refurbished coffeehouse is a fantastic living space. The eclectic décor provides something interesting for the eye, everywhere you look. The upholstered furniture in bold African prints lends a nice twist to European style furniture.

The fabulous converted Coffee House is the centrepiece at Volcanoes Safaris' Kyambura Gorge Lodge overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park

Even the ceiling is funky! The attention to every detail is second to none at the converted Coffee House main living area at Volcanoes Safaris’ Kyambura Gorge Lodge

Activities from Kyambura Gorge Lodge

Despite its remote-seeming location, there’s a whole list of activities to choose from!

  • Game drives
  • Afternoon boat trip on the Kazinga Channel at Mweya: elephant, hippo, Buffalo and many of the park’s 600 bird species
  • Chimp tracking. Kyambura Gorge is home to “a family of 27 chimpanzees who live in a magical sunken forest with a unique eco-system, along with many species of primates and birds, leopards, hippos and elephants.”
  • In 2019 a short private walk will connect the lodge directly to Kyambura Gorge to track ‘the lost chimps.’
  • Wildlife Gorge Walk, around the rim of the gorge, accompanied by one of the lodge’s trained staff. We saw lots of birds and Black and White Colobus Monkeys. You might see a chimp!
  • Community Coffee Tour. The Kyambura Women’s Coffee Cooperative, developed by the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust gives local women a much-needed source of income.
  • Omwani Coffee Processing Tour Kyambura Volcanoes Safaris

    Omwani Coffee Processing Tour is organised by the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust

    Omwani coffee is served at Kyambura Gorge and Volcanoes’ other lodges in Uganda. It is also available as freshly made cappuccino at the Omwani Training Cafe, along with delicious home-made snacks, pizzas and rolex. This great little cafe offers training and job opportunities to local disadvantage young people. The cafe is open to everyone who passes through Kyambura. There is even a small campsite which is popular with Peace Corps volunteers and others. You can also buy Omwani Coffee to take home. The Omwani project has featured in Uganda’s Monitor newspaper.

  • Search for the Tree Climbing Lions in Ishasha
  • Track Mongooses on Mweya with the Uganda Wildlife Authority
  • Birding in Kyambura Wetland, a habitat that is recovering well thanks to the work of the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust 
  • The Omumashaka Drama group performs for guests at the lodge. The group puts on monthly performances of educational plays, songs and dances for the community
  • Visit the bee-keeping project. At certain times of year, you can even suit up with our local beekeepers for this unique hands-on experience!
  • The Blue Lake at Kalinzu
  • UCOTA, the Uganda Community Tourism Association, helps develop and manage a series of community-led tourism projects across Uganda. One of my favourites in Queen Elizabeth is Katwe Salt Lake, situated past the Equator crossing.
  • Chimp tracking can also be arranged in Kalinzu Forest.
  • Did you know flamingos can be seen on one of the crater lakes in Kyambura Reserve at certain times of the year?
  • The lodge is a good base for joining a lion tracking experience in Queen Elizabeth National Park.

Kyambura-Gorge-Lodge-Queen-Elizabeth-National-Park-Uganda

We took turns to lie in the hammock and gaze out across the savannah and into Kyambura Gorge. The pool, massages and all your meals and alcoholic drinks (oh yes) are included in the cost of your room. This photo was taken in 2012. In 2019, the pool area and the pool itself was upgraded

There could be no better setting for a honeymoon. Note to self: look for a husband 😉

Spectacular views of sunsets and mountains, attentive but discreet service, a gentle welcoming smile, wonderful food, a real commitment to ecotourism and community development, a beckoning swimming pool, a bed I never wanted to leave and a whole range of activities on your doorstep, I can wholeheartedly recommend Kyambura Lodge.

Kyambura-Lodge-Queen-Elizabeth-National-Park-Uganda--(5)

The spacious bandas rooms are full of light with floor-to-ceiling glass along one side. The thick curtains should make sure you’re not woken up too early in the morning however.

I loved our banda bathroom. With its double basins and open plan design, it had a decadent feel to it, softened by the use of natural materials to give it an understated elegance. Standing under the hot, powerful shower I enjoyed the sweeping views out onto the Savannah. Oh why did I stay for just one night? I didn’t even try the outside shower!

Kyambura Gorge Lodge Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda

The cone-shaped thatched roof of the converted coffee house, Kyambura Gorge Lodge. The planting of the lodge’s gardens complements the original decor throughout the lodge. It really is a special place.

At the breakfast table I’m joined by my excited friends. They’re all chatter and laughter after their game drive – and ravenous. We dive into a huge breakfast of fresh fruit, 100% organic Omwani coffee, locally produced honey (another Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust initiative), brown bread toast, a ‘full English’ cooked breakfast and pancakes.

They recount stories of the Lion with its adolescent cubs, a huge herd of Buffalo and a Hippo watching them all in the distance. Not bad for a morning’s work! I’ve been spoiled though: three years working for the Uganda Conservation Foundation have given me many days in the bush.

Wetland regeneration Kyambura Gorge Lodge Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda

Beyond the gardens of Kyambura Gorge Lodge are the wetlands, previously used as an illegal brick works. The Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust has rehabilitated 30 acres of wetland. The area is now rapidly regenerating to its natural state.

If you want to stay in a real ecolodge, look no further than Kyambura Gorge Lodge. Ecotourism is a word that’s often used in Uganda but very few lodges or operators live up to the title. Volcanoes really deliver. Investments such as solar energy, rainwater harvesting, a salt water swimming pool and low Flushing eco-toilets are just some of the environmentally friendly lodge features. Active development of conservation and community projects are key to the company’s vision. As an active supporter of conservation and community development in Uganda, I was seriously impressed with what I saw and read.

DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. I was lucky enough to be given a free night’s stay in return for this blog post. For more information, read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions.