Uganda tourist visas – apply online before you fly [UPDATED]
All Ugandan tourist visas and work permits are now online. January 2023: apply BEFORE you travel. I get a lot of questions about visa on arrival at Entebbe Airport but we have heard multiple instances of airlines refusing to board passengers who don’t have their visa approval letter. Visa on arrival is no longer available.
DISCLAIMER: I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues, visitors to Uganda and advice from an immigration lawyer. Scroll down for more information and do read all the comments for the latest feedback on the Uganda visa application process.
Since 2020, every traveller has to consider COVID-19 protocols. For what to expect when passing through Uganda’s international airport, read Latest travel news from Entebbe International Airport (updated regularly).
The Ugandan government has set an online electronic visa application system. This is (in theory) mandatory for applying for all Ugandan visas, including: entry permit (work permit), Uganda tourist visa, multiple entry visa, transit visa, East Africa tourist visa, student pass, diplomatic visa, official visa, special pass, Certificate of Residence, dependent’s pass.
Which nationals need to pay for a visa to enter Uganda?
Click here to see the “List of visa exempt nationalities. If your nationality is on the list, you don’t need to apply for a visa to enter in Uganda.
Requests for tourist visas, passes and work permits (E-Visa and E-permits) should now be completed via this link on the official Uganda immigration website.
Under the new application process, applicants for all immigration services such as visas, work permits and passes will be required to apply and pay online, and an electronic notification / authorisation will be sent to the applicant before proceeding to the preferred Entry Point e.g. Entebbe International Airport or the nearest Uganda Mission abroad for the visa to be issued.
If you are travelling to Uganda and applying for a Ugandan visa online, you are advised to:
Apply at least ONE MONTH prior to travel. (However, some applications are approved in hours, others days, some not at all… if you apply too early, your visa approval may even get cancelled and there’s no guarantee you will get your money back).
Be prepared. You need to complete the online application in one sitting. The online application does not allow you to save your information and return to the screen later. Have these ready: a copy of your bio page of your passport, a recent passport photo, Yellow Fever vaccination certificate and COVID-19 vaccination certificate (or negative PCR test results if you’re not vaccinated). You will need to upload these. For more info on the exact documents needed, according to type of visa you require, go to the Uganda immigration web site general information page.
By the way, the photo is US passport photo size (not Canadian, one Diary of a Muzungu reader tells me, which is a larger size).
If you’re applying for a single entry tourits visa, you’ll need to upload:
- Passport bio-data page (with validity of at least 6 months)
- Recent Passport-size Photo
- Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate
- Return Ticket
Only PDF, JPEG, PNG and BMP files are accepted. The files you upload should not be bigger than 250kb (that’s pretty small!) so resize all your docs before you start the application process.
The decision taken on the online application (“yes” or “no” on whether you’re coming to Uganda) will be sent via email. Assuming you get the go-ahead, your visa approval letter will be sent as an email attachment. You’re advised to print this travel authorisation (showing a barcode) and keep this with your travel documents (although it is not mandatory apparently). However, Ugandans do love printed papers so print everything you can, just to avoid unforeseen delays.
The Uganda immigration web site details the fees for applying for Ugandan visas online.
You can pay online for your Uganda tourist visa. Only Mastercard and Visa are accepted online and there is a 3% surcharge for online payment. Currently, the single entry Uganda tourist visa fee is $55: $50 for the visa and $5 admin fee. For the tourist visa, work permit and pass fees, see Uganda Immigration’s fees for applying for Ugandan visas online or the website of Africa Immigration Advisory Services, Kampala a company I recommend.
When you complete the visa application process, it is very important that you make a note of your application number! You may need this in case you have to follow up. Otherwise, click here to retrieve your Uganda visa application ID but some people say this hasn’t always worked
Present the printed barcode at point of entry [read “Entebbe Airport”] together with a valid passport / travel document of “not less than 6 months validity” and you will get your tourist visa.
NOTE: “the travel authorization [approval] letter does not guarantee entry into Uganda. Travelers will be subjected to secondary verification where necessary before personalization,” meaning it is not 100% guarantee you will be issued a visa at the airport / border / Uganda mission (but you probably will, unless you’ve been very naughty indeed).
For answers to Frequently Asked Questions, go to the Uganda immigration Help page.
As you’ll see from the comments below, lots of visa applications get stuck at the “pending” stage. This is normally because the applicant has forgotten to send in one of the documents, or immigration are requesting more information (but frequently aren’t clear what that is!) There have been lots of complaints about emails not being answered but Uganda immigration do reply fairly quickly via their Facebook page.
The Directorate for Citizenship and Immigration’s call centre is open from 7am to 7pm Uganda time (with plans for it to be operated 24 hours at some stage). Call +256 417 102600 or toll-free 0800 199004 / 0800 199003 in Uganda.
Uganda has 22 official ‘points of entry’ border posts. They include Entebbe International Airport, Katuna (or Gatuna), Malaba, Busia, Cyanika, Mirama Hills and Elegu. Entebbe International Airport has the majority of tourist arrivals, followed by Katuna (Rwanda) and Busia (Kenya border).
Any feedback or questions on applying for Ugandan visas online? Do please contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. I review this page on a regular basis. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
I also have a post about the East Africa Tourist Visa and a post on Rwanda’s announcement that all travelers can get visa on arrival.
What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide [UPDATED]
The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya (only). Your questions answered…
The idea of a single regional East Africa Tourist Visa is to make it easier – and more financially attractive – for tourists to visit the whole region.
You should be able to visit the three countries of Uganda + Rwanda + Kenya on a single visa – or so the theory goes. If you enjoy cross-border travel tips and stories, you might enjoy No hurry in Africa – the bus from Kigali to Kampala and The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya.
In this blog post you will find details about the different East Africa Tourist Visa application processes for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Although the three countries share a tourist visa, the application differs, according to the country where you start your East African travels.
Without an East Africa Tourist Visa, you may spend a minimum of $130 to visit the three countries: Kenya ($50) + Rwanda ($30) + Uganda ($50). These fees are ‘single entry’ only, meaning that a return visit to any of these countries means paying the visa fee again. The East Africa Tourism Visa is commonly available, although a few challenges remain.
“The holder of the East Africa Tourist Visa shall enter from the country that issued the visa and move within the two other countries without applying for another visa or paying for another visa fee.”
Doesn’t that sound good?
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Do you have any questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa?
I start by sharing the official information. Scroll further down the page for some practical travel tips. If you have any more visa or travel information to share, please add comments below this article or message me directly I will then update this page.
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda – with more countries joining in the future.
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
100 USD for internationals.
The EATV is free of charge to foreign residents / expats (with valid work permits) in the three countries: Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. For these kinds of travellers the EATV is issued in the form of an “interstate pass.”
Foreign residents and citizens of the three countries need to travel with a valid passport or National ID or Student ID and request an Interstate Pass at the border. (NOTE to East Africans: if you don’t have a passport, you may be asked to buy a Temporary Travel Document. In Uganda, this costs 10k UGX and can be bought at the border or at Uganda Immigration in Port Bell, Kampala).
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
90 days
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
No. The East Africa Tourist Visa is a multiple entry visa.
According to Carmen Nibigira, Regional Coordinator, East Africa Tourism Platform, the East Africa Tourist Visa entitles the traveller to 90 days uninterrupted travel in and out of the three participating countries. NOTE: the East Africa Tourist Visa is only multiple entry only within the EATV zone. Once you leave the zone (e.g. go to Tanzania, which is not part of the EATV, even though it is an EAC country), you will need to apply for a new East Africa Tourist Visa.
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
No. You cannot extend the East Africa Tourist Visa. To get a new EATV, you need to exit the EATV zone and apply for a new one, as detailed below. (June 2018: feedback from several tourists is that you are now able to purchase an East Africa Tourist Visa when already in the zone e.g. on the road border between Uganda and Rwanda. This has not been publicised but seems fairly common practice).
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
Official line: “Work is prohibited.”
- How to apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa
It’s important to note that the process for purchasing the East Africa Tourist Visa differs according to the country you travel to first. October 2022: it is easy to get an East Africa Tourist Visa in all three countries. However: for Uganda and Kenya, you must apply online in advance for all visasa; for Rwanda, apply online in advnace or get visa on arrival.
The system has been computerised (hooray! no more forms to fill in). When you arrive at the airport / border, you will be asked how long you want to stay. You hand over your passport, they print a form with your details and you pay $100. You should get an East Africa Tourist Visa sticker in your passport. This is signed and stamped.
“For any questions, contact the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Kenya, Republic of Rwanda and Republic of Uganda before you travel.”
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Kenya first?
If Kenya is your first point of entry, contact your local Kenyan embassy for details on how to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa before you start your trip. Alternatively, buy your East Africa Tourist Visa upon arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) or Mombasa.
eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa applications. Currently this is for single entry visas and transit visas only (NOT the EATV). (Checked again October 2022).
For further clarification before you travel to Kenya, contact eVISA Customer Care.
General queries: +254 202 222 022, +254 110 922 063, +254 110 922 064.
Payment queries: +254 110 922 062. Email: evisa@immigration.go.ke
The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel. (Note: this is an external site so I can’t confirm all the info is up to date).
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Rwanda first?
Since January 2018, Rwanda issues visas on arrival to all nationals. This includes East Africa Tourist Visas. However, you can also apply online in advance if you prefer.
If Rwanda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, use the Rwanda Online Visa Application System to apply for the Class T12 East Africa Tourist Visa. Under “Type of Visa” select “East Africa Tourist Visa.” Here you will find an online application form and all the guidance necessary to apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: if you have any flexibility in your itinerary, enter the East Africa Tourist Visa zone via Rwanda. They have the simplest application process with the best guidelines.
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Uganda first?
If Uganda is your first point of entry, you can request your East Africa Tourist Visa at your local Ugandan embassy. (Note: this is an external site so I can’t confirm all the info is uptodate).
October 2022 In theory, you can purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa in cash (US dollars/GBP/Euros) on arrival at Entebbe International Airport, but you may not be allowed to board the plane without your visa approval letter). Therefore, use the Uganda Electronic Visa/Permit Application System to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa. Please read my blog NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online, which I review frequently. (This includes info on Ugandan single entry tourist visas, East Africa Tourist Visas, business visas, transit visas, work permits, dependent’s pass and more).
The Muzungu’s recommendation: At Entebbe International Airport, immigration may insist you provide a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, don’t argue with immigration (like I have before, to my cost); they aways have the last word. You are advised to bring an itinerary with you, if you have one, or they may deny you an EATV (and simply issue you with a single entry Uganda tourist visa).
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
Citizens of Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda can now travel between the three countries with ID cards instead of passports. No visas are needed and there is no charge for the Interstate Pass (a small slip of paper that is issued at the border / airport).
Expatriates with valid work permits can also travel with the ‘Interstate Pass,’ without needing to get a visa. Woop, woop! Make sure you keep the Interstate Pass safe with your passport as you may be asked to return it when you leave the country.
In both cases, nationals and expats are simply given an Interstate Pass document when they show their ID/passport and exit one of the three countries. This is free of charge and issued at the border.
March 2018: I travelled by road to Kenya with a Ugandan friend. She was travelling on her Ugandan ID card. Immigration insisted she purchase a Temporary Travel Document at Busia (cost 10k UGX) even though the East Africa Tourist Visa / Interstate Pass allows nationals to travel on their ID. At Busia, Interpol wanted to interview my friend. They were suspicious of a young Ugandan travelling on her ID card and explained that people traffickers are known to hold the young people’s passports for them at the other end of their journey. On our return bus journey, one vulnerable-looking young woman was intercepted by Interpol. It was clear she was being trafficked. The experience was sobering.
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
Tanzania
It was announced in 2014 that Tanzania would join the East Africa Tourist Visa but there is no information available online. [Checked again October 2022].
Burundi
Sadly, few people are travelling to Burundi currently because of the political situation. We hope life in Burundi improves quickly and that we can welcome them to the EATV party before too long.
South Sudan
One day, we hope…
DR Congo
In 2022, the Democratic Republic of Congo became the seventh member of the EAC but there is no news about it joining the East Africa Tourist Visa.
- The East Africa Tourist Visa. What is the situation on the ground?
(What the tour operators may not tell you)
Officially, you could only get the EATV when you first entered the EATV zone, either in advance online or at an embassy / diplomatic mission / on arrival at the airport (Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda).
These are the four (official) points of entry for the East Africa Tourist Visa but cross-country borders seem to issue the EATV now as well:
- Uganda – Entebbe International Airport
- Rwanda – Kigali International Airport
- Kenya – Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
- Kenya – Mombasa, Moi International Airport and the Port of Mombasa.
The fact that you could only get an East Africa Tourist Visa when you first entered the EATV countries was a bit of a drawback for some people who may arrive in one country, without having made firm travel plans. It’s quite common for travellers to arrive without an itinerary. Someone may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, for example, and decide they want to travel to the Kenyan coast next.
Visas issued for specific countries can only be used for that particular country.
Notes from friends and family regarding the East Africa Tourist Visa
In its initial form, the EATV was not as flexible as it could be, particularly for backpackers and budget travelers who make up their travel plans as they go. I know people who arrived in Uganda on a single country tourist visa but who then decided to travel within East Africa. My friends’ experience was that when you are travelling by road, the situation was even less clear:
- Cyanika border (Rwanda / Uganda). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Rwanda by road here? You can certainly get one at Gatuna now (April 2018).
- Busia border (Uganda / Kenya). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Kenya by road? Yes, now you can.
Remember: At Entebbe International Airport, immigration may ask you to provide a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, you are advised to bring one with you, if you have one. Hotel bookings serve the same purpose.
Do you have any questions on the East Africa Tourist Visa? I update this page frequently.
Do you have any advice to share? If so, please add your comments below or feel free to contact the Muzungu. If you’re looking for more East Africa visa advice, read NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online and Rwanda announces: all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival.
When can I travel to Uganda? Post-lockdown FAQs
Travel to Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda during the COVID-19 pandemic: frequently asked questions about quarantine, visas, immigration, Entebbe airport, international bus travel and borders.
[Please note: 1) I updated info on this post 30th October 2020 and 2) Entebbe Airport photos used in this article taken pre-pandemic].
Over the last few weeks, I’ve had a lot of questions from Ugandans, Kenyans and expats of different nationalities who want to travel to Uganda. I cannot promise everything on this page is up-to-date. You’re welcome to contact me directly, as the people below did, if you are unsure of anything.
- Do you want to travel to Uganda?
- Are you waiting for Entebbe Airport to reopen? [Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st]
- Are you applying for a Uganda or Kenya tourist visa online?
- Do you want to travel by air or bus between Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya? [Although Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st, land borders with Rwanda have not reopened so there are no international buses. Buses between Uganda and Kenya resumed but Nairobi went into lockdown in March 2021 so buses between Kampala and Nairobi went back on hold].
- When will Uganda’s airport open again? [Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st]
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 1
Hi I want to travel to Kampala on 20th of August but I currently haven’t organized it yet. Must I have a work permit because am only going there for a project?
Leila, Kenya, August 9th 2020 in response to MASH-tastic – the muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi.
The Muzungu replied:
International bus routes between Uganda and Kenya are still closed [October 30th 2020] and Uganda’s Entebbe International Airport will not be open until mid-September at the earliest (according to a good source). [Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st]
If you are coming here to work or volunteer, you will need a work permit. You would normally be able to enter the country on a single entry tourist visa and then apply for your work permit however, one case varies from another.
For info, read how to apply for your Uganda visa online.
To contact Uganda Immigration directly, use their Facebook page. Before the pandemic, immigration would normally reply within 24 hours but they have reduced staff at the moment.
My feeling is that you will not be travelling on the 20th August but good luck and let me know how it goes! Safe journey.
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 2
Hello: I’ve followed your blog since coming to Africa and it is highly informative and well done. I’m a U.S. businessman trapped in Nairobi on lockdown. You clearly have a feel for what’s going on in East Africa, so I had a hunch you might know something about the border travel situation. I was initially in Kampala for a month in October 2019 and then did a month of volunteer work in Nyanza en route to business in Nairobi. I’d hoped to be here briefly so I could return to Kampala to wrap up various issues before departing Africa. But here I still am. I’ve read news reports online saying there’s pressure on the Uganda government to reopen Entebbe. I’ve called Mash POA and EasyCoach who both tell me there’s no Nairobi / Kampala travel and they don’t know when it will resume. Do you have any notion or rumor that you might be kind enough to share?
Peter, Nairobi, August 7th 2020
The Muzungu replied:
Yes Peter, there is mounting pressure on the Ugandan government to reopen Entebbe International Airport. I am following developments closely and will let you know if I hear anything positive re the airport or land borders.
Sorry to hear that you got marooned in Nairobi. When President Museveni closed the schools, I made sure I raced back upcountry… and here I have remained since March. You might enjoy some of my #LockdownDiaries from Kibale Forest in Western Uganda.
Read my blog Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st.
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 3
Hello dear Charlotte, I am glad to hear despite these difficult times which the whole world is in a kind of depression, that you didn’t lose your positive attitude.
I am somehow happy for Uganda that it is not affected by Covid like the neighbouring countries. Hope soon the airport will start functioning again so that I can board a plane. Any idea when the airport is going to be available for us to fly back?
I wish you the best and thanks for your efforts keeping Uganda’s safaris, wildlife and tourism alive.
Sako, Beirut, August 7th 2020
The Muzungu replied:
The government said it would reopen Entebbe International Airport on August 1 (but that hasn’t happened). A lot of people are putting pressure on to reopen Uganda’s airport. I will let you know in case I hear of anything. Read my blog Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st.
Yes things are okay so far in Uganda (August 7th) and I’m very happy to be in Kibale Forest. Nature is keeping me positive.
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 4
Thanks a lot for the updates and all the helpful information you have offered. Am planning to travel to Kampala in November just for leisure. Can that be possible with this Corona issue at hand? Any new updates please?
Monica, Kenya, 23rd August in response to MASH-tastic – the muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi.
The Muzungu replied:
Unfortunately it’s impossible to say what the situation is going to be like in November. As of this moment, I’m sure you are aware that Entebbe Airport and Uganda’s borders all remain closed. Entebbe Airport reopened October 1st.
However – once you get here – public transport around Uganda is operating but taking fewer passengers (for a higher fee of course!)
The number of coronavirus infections hit a peak yesterday [end of August 2020] with 318 new cases reported and there are rumours that Kampala may go into lockdown again. I spoke to several friends in Kampala today and they’ve all advised me to stay away longer as most people aren’t social distancing nor are they wearing masks properly, especially when you go downtown to the busiest areas. Let’s hope coronavirus peaks quickly and you are able to travel here in November 2020.
I would advise you not to make any travel plans until you can be absolutely sure it’s safe – and convenient – to travel. You wouldn’t want to get here and then spend all your time in quarantine (at your expense!) Currently there is 14 days quarantine for those (very few) people who are coming into Uganda (on special repatriation flights etc). [UPDATE 30th October 2020: you can enter Uganda with proof of a negative COVID-19 PCR test. For those who test positive, self-quarantine is advised in most circumstances].
You may also find these blogs helpful:
Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda. Published March 2020 and updated regularly with lots of health advice about COVID-19 / Coronavirus and many useful links.
Advice from the US Embassy in Kampala: Now is the time to take precautions. Published August 2020.
Uganda’s tourism private-sector demand airport reopening. Published August 2020.
Entebbe International Airport, Uganda, reopened October 1st 2020.
Uganda Travel Enquiry # 5
Thank you so much for sharing your insights and experience.
Paolo, August 21st in response to What is the east Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide.
After all the craziness of covid has passed, I’m planning to visit Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya.
My questions are
1. How soon can I apply for an online East African Visa with Uganda as my first port of entry? Can I apply as early as three months before my planned departure from my home country?
2. With Uganda as the port of entry, how high is the success rate in obtaining an East African visa online? If an application is denied, what are the usual reasons for denial?
The Muzungu replied:
Let me advise you based on recent past knowledge. I spoke to someone in Uganda Immigration today and I know things are working really slowly at the moment so we are all going to have to be patient (and bear in mind things may not work the way they did pre-pandemic).
1. Yes you can apply three months in advance. That is the maximum.
2. Regarding the success rate, I can’t give you a figure. I think it’s pretty straightforward to get it approved, in fact I haven’t met anyone whose application has been denied. Once upon a time, Uganda (for example) would ask you to prove that you were planning to visit Rwanda and Kenya and would ask for itineraries or hotel confirmations showing ‘onward travel’ but that has not been happening recently.
When things were working normally, it would be quick to get tourist visa approval online (within one week). General reasons for a visa being declined are that you have not submitted all the forms that they have requested.
Hope that answers your questions. If not, ping me another message 😎
Kenya Travel Enquiry
How long does it take to get East African Visa via Kenya online?
Daria, August 5th 2020 in response to What is the east Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide.
The Muzungu replied:
I could not find an exact answer to your question but I have been in contact with tour operator friends in Kenya who shared this:
Note that: “Kenyan immigration is advising that all passengers requiring visa to enter Kenya need to apply online. Visa application on arrival into Kenya will also be done online. Cash payments for visas on arrival will NOT be allowed. Visa cards will however be accepted.”
Kenya High Commission in the UK issued a Communique on the resumption of international air travel to Kenya on 1st August 2020.
It states “All arriving passengers on international flights whose body temperature is NOT above 37.5° C (99.5°F); do NOT have a persistent cough, difficulty in breathing or other flu-like symptoms; have negative PCR based COVID – 19 test carried out within 96 hours before travel and are from countries considered low to medium risk COVID – 19 transmission areas shall be exempt from quarantine.
The communique lists “countries from which travelers will be exempt from quarantine” but (how up to date is that list?) Note that “review of countries will be undertaken by Ministry of Health on day to day basis… the risk profile of any country could change and therefore the status with regard to these clarifications and directives could also change.”
Do you have questions about travel to Uganda and around East Africa during the pandemic? Do you have advice or experiences to share? If you want the latest travel advice, feel free to post a comment here or contact me directly. Things change daily… #staysafe
Oranges and Ebola – a night crossing at the Uganda Rwanda border
Oranges and Ebola – a night crossing at the Uganda Rwanda border
Tonight we’re listening to rumba. It’s a pleasant change from the constant hawking and violent spitting of last week’s driver. Packing my earplugs in the hold – far away from me – was a very bad idea.
Kampala traffic is intense. It takes us half an hour to exit Namirembe Road where we alight, and two hours before we are on the main road out of the city. The driver is clearly stressed and puts his foot down at every opportunity, beeping loudly for other vehicles to get out of his way.
The VIP night bus looks brand-new. The seats are very comfy and the seatbelt works. Regular readers may recall my frequent cross-border trips. “No hurry in Africa” is a favourite.
On the small TV monitor next to the driver, Bukedde bursts into life. My heart sinks. This popular show is the bane of my life (and I don’t even have a telly). In each episode, a foreign film plays, with subtitles displayed underneath. Over this is a commentary in Luganda. Ugandans LOVE this show and, at a certain time of day, far and wide across the country, Bukedde blasts out from shopfronts, bars – and buses. It’s always played very loud. It does my head in so it’s the last thing I want to hear when I plan to sleep for a few hours en route to Kigali. Today’s Bukedde is a Chinese movie, played on a Chinese screen in a Chinese bus!
With the continued punishing sounds of spitting emanating from the driver’s mouth, I’m amazed that he is allowing the passengers to break for five minutes.
“Short call,” he growls, as we pull into a petrol station near Mbarara.
The muzungu is first to jump off the bus and head for the women’s toilets. As I exit the toilets, I hear the word muzungu and murmurs in Luganda. My crime? I can only guess that in my rush to have a short call, I have forgotten to pick up a jerry can and sluice the toilet behind me, not that there is any trace that I have even been in there. Still, I allow the ladies their moment of disapproval. (The funny thing is, wouldn’t you take the time to explain the error if it really mattered?)
Back on the bus, tiredness gets the better of me. I wake up at the border.
Crossing between Uganda and Rwanda is a lot easier now we have a computerised immigration system. Gone are the days when groups of men would clutch handfuls of biros to sell to help us fill out immigration forms. On a good day, it now only takes ten minutes to exit one country and ten minutes to enter another.
No man’s land – the border crossing at Katuna (Uganda) and Gatuna (Rwanda)
Regardless of how quickly I disembark at the border crossings, I always find myself at the end of the line. I put that down to my misplaced British sense of fairness (as a nation, we are obsessed with queuing) that allows people to push past me. There’s little point in complaining.
The woman at Uganda immigration gives me a dirty look and throws my passport back at me with contempt. Why? I’ll never know.
I walk through the mist that rises from the river; the natural feature makes the perfect border delineation but No Man’s land is a desolate place at four in the morning. I feel safe however. I’ve walked across here many times.
Six men approach me, wanting to exchange currency. They’re harmless, but annoying nonetheless. They see white skin and swarm. I dodge them as best I can but one of them is insistent (or bored). He thinks it’s funny to jump out at me.
“Fuck off!” I shout (for only the third time in Uganda). He doesn’t care. In fact, he laughs. I’m usually nice – but I have my limits.
A few paces further through the gloom, I pass the barrier that marks Rwanda. Without warning, out of the surrounding darkness a skinny man shines a torch straight into my eyes. “Ebola” he says. (Is that supposed to reassure me?)
Thermoflash Ebola testing Rwanda Uganda border
A few paces further on, the Rwandan immigration officials sit laughing in their office. It cheers me up, a lovely antidote to the negative attitude I’ve received in Uganda a few minutes before.
Customs order our bus to be emptied and searched. I smell fresh oranges.
I recall my first road trip to Rwanda a few years ago and how the bus was emptied out for a search. Are they looking for bombs or weapons? I had asked myself. I was gobsmacked when border staff wanted to confiscate a cavera carrier bag! I know the routine now (and you can expect the same routine when you enter Tanzania after June 1 2019).
Hauling a sack of (green) oranges is a two-man job. One of the sacks splits and oranges roll in every direction. Immigration formalities behind us, the passengers stand around watching. There is nothing for us to do but talk football, of course
The bus conductor comes over to say hello and asks where I’m from. As soon as I say I’m British, he excitedly chats Premier League. “We Africans love England because you have given a chance for Africans to play.” “As for the World Cup…” he hesitates, looks me directly in the eye and says “… you let us down.”
Each passenger gets on the bus clasping an orange.
This week’s travel travel tip (courtesy of my friend Julia): if you can’t afford the airfare and have to take the bus, splash out and purchase two seats next to each other! You’ll be surprised what a difference it makes.
This is about a journey I took in September 2018. Ebola checks continue at East African borders. At the point of writing, Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya are Ebola-free. For the latest information on Ebola, I follow World Health Organization (WHO) Uganda on Twitter.
Rwanda announces: all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival
How do I apply for Rwanda visas? Rwanda now issues visa on arrival for all visitors (although online application is available too).
You have to hand it to the Rwandese, these guys are serious about tourism! #Rwanda has opened its borders to all travelers from all countries. Everyone can apply for #VisaOnArrival.
UPDATE: January 2021. Visa on arrival is still available for visitors to Rwanda.
(Previously, only African passport holders and a few other countries could get Rwanda visas on arrival).
Here’s a copy of the official announcement letter from Rwanda’s immigration department:
Listed below are costs of Rwanda visas. These are still in effect (June 2018).
How do I apply for Rwanda tourist visas in 2021?
You can just rock up!
This move sends a clear and positive message to tourists and it reaffirms ease of movement for East Africans within the region. It’s easier for Rwanda-based expats to travel in and out of the country too. This announcement makes it easier for the Rwandan diaspora (travelling on passports from other countries) to visit their home country as well. It’s an inclusive approach, I like it.
You can also apply online in advance for your Rwanda tourist visa
Go to the Rwandan government’s Irembo website. Scroll down to Immigration and click on Visa application. Visa processing time is 7 days. This is a useful ‘contact free’ option during the pandemic.
Note that the only two websites that issue authentic visas are Irembo and Rwanda Government Immigration site. There have been cases of fraudsters tricking people into parting with money and not issuing visas. There are also companies that pretend to be official sites and organise visas for you (but take a large commission in a rather underhand way). Use either of the two above links to guarantee you avoid the scammers and extra charges.
Which nationalities need visas to enter Rwanda?
Are you looking for more East Africa visa advice? Got a question about visas? Read my blog about Ugandan tourist visas and my Definitive Guide to the East Africa Tourist Visa.
I update these tourist visa blogs frequently and regularly answer travelers’ questions. Feel free to ask in the comments or contact me directly.
Do you stop the car in Nairobi?
“Stop the car,” says Jane. “Take me back to the airport.”
It’s 11 pm. After an uneventful flight – save for the mother who let her (very obviously distressed) 4 year old son bawl for 20 minutes, we land in Nairobi.
We’re last on the plane. (Are there many international airports where the flight attendant approaches you in duty-free to remind you the plane is about to leave?)
We banter with the guys at immigration at Jomo Kenyatta Airport. Despite being EAC residents – and regular visitors to Kenya – they still want to charge Jane the standard $50 tourist visa fee. (Where’s EAC integration when you need it?) The Guy with the Attitude tells her to show him where her visa is (isn’t it HIS job to decipher all those pages of stamps and dodgy handwriting?) “Na na na na” she says as she flashes the page in his face. Too late. He has started writing her name on the visa stamp.
Next in line, mine therefore reads her name crossed out then mine.
A note to Immigration: I’m trying to adhere to the rules but … despite my best and honest efforts, last time I entered Kenya as Nagawa (my Ugandan name) and I left as a US citizen.
It’s only when we get in the taxi that Jane – two hours sans fags – notices the large sign in front of her saying:
NO SMOKING
“Stop the car,” says Jane. “Take me back to the airport. I want another car.”
“What?” asks the driver, confused.
“It is against company policy to smoke in our taxis.” He carries on driving.
“It is against the law to smoke in a taxi in Kenya.” He’s biding his time…
A fast one-way road stretches out in front of us (how will he turn round?) Uganda’s potholed roads force us to drive slowly; smooth, fast roads always scare me when I first leave Uganda
Jane picks up the phone and calls his boss. I squirm in the back of the car.
Jane’s voice rises. “You lied to me!” she tells him,” it is NOT company policy that passengers can’t smoke in cars and it is NOT illegal to smoke in a taxi in Kenya.” Even I’m feeling like a fag by now!
Her accusations are met with silence from the driver.
Karibu – welcome to Kenya … ! This conversation just would not happen in Uganda. Few people smoke / few people care if you smoke and disagreements are met with grace and humour (and a good measure of bullshit) but there’s rarely anger.
Tight rows of reflector posts guide us towards the well-lit UN HQ, soldiers patrolling its perimeter. And then, amidst all this security, a young man launches himself into the middle of the road ahead of us, grinning and waving his arms at us to slow down.
Our driver slows down. “Just keep on driving,” shouts Jane.
Why, after speeding all the way from the airport, does he choose to slow down at the chance of trouble? (Nairobi’s reputation for car jackings precedes it).
“Drive the fucker over!”
I didn’t come to Nairobi to kill someone; but suddenly, all the rules have changed. It feels so different to Uganda.
The driver puts his foot down and we continue into the night.
I first visited Nairobi en route to South Africa – A quick glimpse of Nairobi nightlife
To save money, I slept in the airport. Check out this funky web site – Sleeping in Airports! and my review of Nairobi airport.
An alternative way to travel from Uganda, is by bus – Kampala to Nairobi – 14 hours of speed bumps
