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Wild dog excitement in Kidepo!

Back from extinction? Or just back for the day? African wild dogs recorded in Uganda for the first time in over 40 years

Recently, the grainy photo [below] from a wildlife ranger’s phone went viral on Uganda’s conservation and tourism WhatsApp groups. There’s no mistaking the dog’s lollop and it’s smudged tricolour coat: African wild dogs have been recorded in Uganda for the first time since the 1980s! Reports say that two individual dogs were seen.

African wild dog pictured in Kidepo, Uganda, 27th June 2023. PHOTO by Gilbert Manyimanyi, Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger

The wild dog sightings were in Narus Valley in Uganda’s most north-easterly protected area, bordering South Sudan. What brought the wild dogs to the Narus Valley? And will Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers see them again? This amazing animal was widely believed to be extinct in Uganda – until now.

It’s exciting to add a new species to my blog and I immediately turned to ‘the wildlife bible’, Richard D. Estes’ The Safari companion: guide to watching African mammals.

What do we know about wild dogs?

  • African wild dogs (Lycaon pictus) are also known as painted dogs or painted wolves.
  • “Their conspicuous colour testifies to their hunting prowess: here is a predator that doesn’t need to sneak up on its prey.” WOW.
  • They are “a lean-long legged canid built for speed and endurance.” They are Africa’s largest dogs.
  • African wild dogs are “the most carnivorous and one of the most specialised hunters.”
  • Known in East Africa as a plains animal, their range is through all types of bush and montane habitats.
  • African wild dogs are highly susceptible to canine diseases. Disease is the main suspect in their demise (they can infected by domestic dogs).
An African wild dog pictured with painter himself Carrel Kumbirai
An African wild dog (from South Africa) pictured with the painter Carrel Kumbirai. This incredibly life-like painting is of a photo by Jocelin Kagan, author of Africa’s wild dogs – A survival story. Proceeds of art sales go to support the African Wildlife Conservation Fund in Zimbabwe.

How will the rangers find wild dogs in Uganda?

According to Chris and Tilde Stuart, authors of Field Guide Mammals of South AfricaWild dogs do not establish territories but have very large home ranges.” (This suggests that the dogs were likely to just be visiting Kidepo).

  • Animals live in packs of 10, 20 or even 30. Packs of 20 dogs are common although bigger numbers have been recorded in southern Africa.
  • Large packs tend to split. (Are these two individuals splitting to form a new pack?)
  • “A strong smell is characteristic of the species.” Imagine!
  • Wild dogs make a range of sounds, from a deep rough bark, to a “birdlike twittering” when they are excited, and ultrasonic calls (which are inaudible to humans).
  • “The only sure way to see wild dogs is when they are denning” [in their den].

I’ve had so much fun researching this topic! And I hope that the African wild dogs are here to stay in Uganda. You never know what you will see – or smell – when you go on safari. I can’t wait to visit Kidepo Valley National Park later this year (can you guess what I’ll be sniffing around for?)

Uganda Wildlife Authority revises conservation fees [UPDATED]

Uganda Wildlife Authority has released a new Conservation Tariff which will be effective from 1st July 2022.

The good news is that there are very few price increases. The most notable change in Uganda Wildlife Authority’s new price list is the increased entry fee to Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda’s most popular safari destination.

You hardly need me to remind you how hard travel – and thus conservation revenue – has been hit during the pandemic. It’s therefore no surprise that the authorities are doing everything they can to raise money. Some might argue that we need discounts to encourage people to travel. However, given conservation’s dire finances recently, I say let’s be grateful how few price increases there are. Now let’s book that safari!

Uganda Wildlife Authority’s new Conservation Tariff, effective 1st July 2022 to 20th June 2024. Price category explanations: FNR are foreign non-residents or international tourists; FR are foreign residents (expats); EAC are East Africans, including Ugandans (regional and domestic tourists)

UWA’s summary price list (above) covers National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees, gorilla / chimpanzee / golden monkey tracking permits, primate habituation, mountain and volcano hiking, mountain biking, boat hire to watch the Shoebill on Lake Albert.

A few activities that the muzungu is looking forward to doing include:

Uganda park entry fees – Murchison Falls slight increase

From July 1st 2022, visitors to Murchison Falls National Park can expect to pay:

  • Ugandan adults 25,000 Uganda shillings (was 20,000)
  • Ugandan children 10,000 Uganda shillings (was 5,000)
  • International tourists, adults $45 (was $40)
  • International tourists, children $25 (was $20)
  • Residents / expats $35 (was $30)

Stephen Masaba of Uganda Wildlife Authority explained to Diary of a Muzungu:

“For Murchison Falls, we observed high speeding and increased road kills (especially of baboons) but have also noted littering and high levels of plastic waste. Of the number of visitors to Murchison, over 10% of these people are just in transit (crossing through the park). The slight fee increase should help curb some of these effects.”

Stephen Sanyi Masaba, Director, Tourism and Business Development, Uganda Wildlife Authority

Although they don’t (yet) have the facilities that more established National Parks do, now might be a time to explore some of Uganda’s less visited protected areas such as Pian Upe and Katonga Wildlife Reserves.

For full details on activities not listed in the summary (game drives, nature walks, birdwatching and more) download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s full conservation tariff for July 2022 to June 2024 here.

Planning a Uganda safari?

Did you know I have a Travel Directory full of tour operators who would love to organise a trip of a lifetime for you? Alternatively, drop me a line and I will make some personal recommendations. Damn, writing this makes me miss the savannah…

Uganda slashes permit & park fees for all visitors

Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) announces long list of exciting discounts across the country!

If you’ve ever wanted to track the mountain gorillas, go on safari in Uganda’s National Parks and Wildlife Reserves, track chimpanzees or go birdwatching in Uganda’s Protected Areas, now is the time! Make the most of reduced fees until 30th June 2021. (In March 2021, UWA extended the discounts to the new June date).

It’s with great excitement that we can share a long list of discounts and incentives for visiting Uganda’s key wildlife attractions. Whether you are a Ugandan, an expat or planning to fly into Entebbe International Airport, travel between now and the end of June 2021. These substantial discounts make this gorgeous country even more attractive! (Pair these with discounts announced in July 2020 and you will be spoiled for choice!)

Uganda Wildlife Authority. Parks are now open 2020. Protect our primates. Follow the COVID-19 safety measures.

Reduction on mountain gorilla and chimpanzee tracking permit fees in Uganda for all visitors

Essentially, everyone is entitled to discounts, whether Ugandans, international tourists, expatriates living in Uganda or East African residents. Check out the tables I’ve created below.

NOTE: Uganda Wildlife Authority announced some discounts in July 2020 as well. I have tried to list them all in this blog as well (but the combinations and options do get a little confusing!)

Discounted prices for gorilla tracking and chimp tracking in Uganda from 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021

GORILLA tracking permits – Uganda*Now*Was…Saving
East African Community citizen (Ugandan, Rwandan, Kenyan, Tanzanian, South Sudanese)UGX 150,000UGX 250,000UGX 100,000
Foreign resident (expat)USD 300USD 600USD 300
Foreign non-resident (international tourist)USD 400USD 700USD 300

Has this got you excited about tracking the mountain gorillas? Read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas.

CHIMPANZEE tracking permits Uganda*Now*Was…Saving you
East African Community citizenUGX 100,000UGX 150,000UGX 50,000
Foreign resident (expat)USD 100USD 150USD 50
Foreign non-resident (international tourist)USD 150USD 200USD 50

Chimpanzee tracking is a rather different experience – livelier, more energetic – and frequently very noisy! Read a wonderful account of chimp tracking here. I love on the edge of Kibale Forest so I have tons of stories and tips to share as well 😉

50% discount off park entrance fees 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021

UWA’s discounts apply to most National Parks and some Wildlife Reserves. The ones in the 50% promotion are: Lake Mburo, Queen Elizabeth, Kidepo Valley, Murchison Falls and Semliki National Parks; Toro-Semuliki, Katonga, Pian Upe and Kabwoya Wildlife Reserves.

There are three pricing categories: A, B and C. A is the most expensive (with the best facilities and most visited).

Here is the full – and pre-discounted – Uganda Wildlife Authority tariff of July 2020 to June 2022.

Pay for two days park entry and get one day free! Until June 2021

Note that UWA has another offer running currently too: pay for two days park entry and get one day free. This applies to all National Parks and Wildlife Reserves. The ‘3 for 2’ offer lasts until the end of June 2021.

It’s interesting to note that Uganda Wildlife Authority is promoting Wildlife Reserves. Plans are underway to upgrade Toro-Semliki, Katonga and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserves to National Park status in the very near future.

Visiting a National Park? Check out Diary of a Muzungu’ guide to Uganda’s National Parks.

50% discount off birding fees 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021

Yes! Did you know Uganda has over 1,000 bird species? (Contrast that with the U.K.’s 600 or so species and you get an idea of how special Uganda is. The countries are a similar size). Birding (or birdwatching) is one of the muzungu’s favourite activities.

Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. Photo by Charlotte Beauvoisin

50% discount off nature walk fees 1st December 2020 to end of March 2021

This applies to nature walks in Murchison Falls, Kidepo Valley, Queen Elizabeth, Lake Mburo National Parks and Kapkwai Exploration Centre in Mount Elgon National Park.

East Africans now pay 10,000 ugx.

Expats (foreign residents) and international tourists (foreign non-residents) now pay $15 (normally $30).

Do you want to climb Mount Elgon?

This is a really fantastic hike! Between now and the end of June 2022, groups of twenty people can get a 20% discount on the usual fees.

Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda
Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda. PHOTO Nicola Swann

Read all about my four-day trip to Wagagai Peak in a “A girl called Kevin – climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda.”

How to track the gorillas and chimps – safely – during COVID

My plea: travel safely, wear a mask, wash your hands and sanitise frequently. If you’re planning to see the primates, follow the instructions to the letter. Mountain gorillas and chimpanzees are at high risk of catching COVID-19 from us and extra precautions have been put in place to ensure the safety of our closest relatives. Remember we are approximately 98% the same DNA and a chimp or gorilla can catch a human cold. Do not do anything that might compromise their health.

Charlotte and Dillon wear masks
Charlotte and Dillon wear masks – our first attempt…

Uganda Wildlife Authority’s list of incentives will come as a big blow to neighbouring Rwanda who had dropped their gorilla tracking permits from a high $1500 down to $500, undercutting the stated prices in Uganda. However, everyone in Uganda is delighted that we can start marketing again! This is a great boost for the Ugandan tourism industry.

Visit the Uganda Wildlife Authority website for confirmation of the tourism incentive promotions.

Do you have any questions? If you’re ready to plan a trip, visit my Travel Directory. I work with a number of tour operators who can book gorilla and chimp permits, arrange your accommodation and guide you on safari. 

Want a tried and tested recommendation? Feel free to drop a comment below or contact me directly.

Now let’s go enjoy Uganda’s wild areas!

Please share with a friend 😁 🇺🇬 🙏🏻 🐒 🦍 🐘 🦒 🦁

#VisitUganda #Tulambule #TravelTomorrow

Uganda Wildlife Authority discusses wildlife protection during pandemic on Facebook Live

Updates about mountain gorilla permits, chimp tracking, law enforcement and primate monitoring, electric fencing projects, desert locusts in north Eastern Uganda and the future of UWA.

In his first Facebook Live press conference, UWA Executive Director Sam Mwandha shared news about the work of the Uganda Wildlife Authority during the Coronavirus pandemic.

Wildlife protection during the pandemic. Uganda Wildlife Authority
Wildlife protection during the pandemic. It’s great to see Uganda Wildlife Authority embracing social media. (I recently ran a digital marketing training workshop for their Tourism Wardens). You can watch Sam Mwandha’s presentation on UWA’s Facebook page.

Following President Museveni’s announcement of a lockdown across the country, gorilla tracking was suspended until 30th of April. To help tourists and tour operators who have booked gorilla (or chimpanzee) tracking permits, Uganda Wildlife Authority has relaxed their rescheduling policy, meaning permits can be rescheduled for a period of up to 2 years (that is until March 2022). This arrangement also applies to those who have paid the initial 30% deposit for permits.

The "Spy In The Wild" BBC series filmed mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda
The “Spy In The Wild” BBC series filmed mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda. All primate tourism and research is currently on hold

Mr Mwandha confirmed that there are no cases of coronavirus in UWA staff or any other people working in Uganda’s Protected Areas. UWA have procured protective equipment for staff that includes masks, gloves and sanitiser, along with guidance on their use. He thanked Conservation Through Public Health, Uganda Conservation Foundation and others for their generosity.

Although there are currently no tourists in the Protected Areas, law enforcement patrols continue. Human wildlife conflict issues are being actively managed and wildlife and communities are still being protected. Mr Mwandha said communities should “feel free to contact Uganda Wildlife Authority if they need help with human wildlife conflict issues.”

He also confirmed that rangers are continuing daily monitoring of primates in the three Protected Areas of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Mgahinga and Kibale Forest.

Report desert locusts in Uganda using the toll free phone number
Report desert locusts in Uganda using the toll free phone number

On the issue of desert locusts, Uganda Wildlife Authority has provided 82 staff to support the UPDF with chemical spraying, in consultation with the Ministry of Agriculture, Animal Industry and Fisheries (MAAIF).

Although it was reported that locusts had entered into Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve and Kidepo National Park, Mr Mwandha reported that “whenever locusts have entered, they have left the following morning so there has been no significant damage reported.”

Update on Uganda Wildlife Authority developments across Uganda

During this period, UWA is continuing with other projects that include:

  • 18 km of electric fencing in Queen Elizabeth (near Kasese) and an additional 5 km of electric fencing near Kyambura to protect communities from wild animals (predominantly elephants). In Murchison Falls, 20 km of electric fencing is being installed in Moya District and elsewhere.
  • The ED of UWA gave a special thank you to Uganda Conservation Foundation, who have helped upgrade the internet. “Thanks to UCF they have high-speed Internet in the newly constructed operations centre at Murchison Falls. This centre will support law enforcement in MFNP.“ The internet and centre are both operational (and were supposed to have been launched a week ago). “They will help deal strongly and resolutely with poaching in Murchison Falls and stamp it out completely.”
  • Over 200 rooms are being built for staff across the conservation areas and these are expected to be ready starting July 1st.

“I want to assure staff and partners that we are confident that Uganda Wildlife Authority will survive.”

Sam Mwandha rounded off his presentation by saying that with no tourism revenue coming in “the days ahead are going to be hard for UWA.”

According to UWA’s Business Continuity Plan, even in a worst-case scenario (of no revenue, indefinitely) the organisation has committed to keeping key functions running until July 2021.

Mr Mwandha made three specific assurances of how things will be between now and July 2021. UWA will ensure that:

  1. Security of employment of staff is maintained.
  2. Wildlife and Protected Areas are protected from poaching and encroachment.
  3. Human wildlife conflict that affects our communities is minimised.

He ended by saying “We continue needing support until tourism returns to normal.” He thanked AUTO (Association of Tour Operators)* for their “donation of items important for patrols. These have been immediately despatched to the parks for the rangers as they continue protecting our wildlife.”

“We request all of you Ugandans, partners and stakeholders to work with us to keep COVID-19 out of Uganda by observing the guidelines provided and that together we conserve for future generations.”

Read UWA’s public statement on measures to contain COVID-19 in the Protected Areas, dated March 25th 2020.

The Muzungu adds:

It’s reassuring to hear Uganda Wildlife Authority’s commitments during this difficult time. We know from firsthand experience of living at Sunbird Hill how they are continuing their work in the field. Last week we heard gunshots in the air as they chased elephants back into Kibale Forest (to protect villagers’ crops). We also interacted with UWA when a chimpanzee was killed by other chimpanzees on the forest edge.

Between 2009 and 2011 I was a Voluntary Service Overseas volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation so it’s fantastic to see how they’ve expanded their support of UWA across the country. My role with UCF was to help fundraise to build ranger accommodation in Queen Elizabeth and to equip UWA with boats and training for them to police the park’s lakes and rivers to intercept poachers.

Kamulikwezi, Lake George, Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda ranger post opening. UWA and UCF
Official opening of the ranger post at Kamulikwezi, Lake George, Queen Elizabeth National Park with UWA and UCF
safari field trip with UCF. Queen Elizabeth. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Taking notes on my first field trip with UCF and UWA to investigate site for a new ranger station in Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area

I was over the moon when UWA invited me to run a digital marketing training programme for tourism wardens in Entebbe (my last project before lockdown in fact). With all this time on our hands, I hope all our trainees are home practising their Facebook skills!

Also this week, AUTO held a series of brainstorming sessions online. These can be accessed on the AUTO YourTube channel or on SoundCloud.

UPDATE DECEMBER 2020: all National Parks, Wildlife Reserves and primate tracking have reopened with COVID-19 protocols in place. UWA have a wide range of promotions in place.

Mount Elgon National Park

Mount Elgon National Park – need some head space? Go climb Wagagai!

Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda

Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda. PHOTO Nicola Swann

Mount Elgon National Park straddles Uganda’s eastern border with Kenya. One Mount Elgon National Park is in Uganda; Kenya has a (separately managed) Mount Elgon National Park on the eastern side of the same caldera.

On our five-day hike to the summit of Wagagai, we only encountered two other groups of hikers. Climbing Mount Elgon’s Wagagai Peak felt like a real wilderness experience to us.
Often hot during the day, it could be very cold at night, especially after the rains. We trekked in May and we camped (well, everyone camps!)

porters Mount Elgon cave

Kevin – one of our UWA guides – made tea for the porters as we took shelter in a cave on day one of climbing Mount Elgon

Our (obligatory) Uganda Wildlife Authority Ranger guides were fantastic. The porters said very few words to their bazungu clients. God they were tough: they carried our packs all day long, some of them walked barefoot, and huddled around the campfire, sleeping together in a big heap every night.

At 4,321 metres, Mount Elgon is the fourth highest mountain in East Africa. It is the eighth highest peak in Africa. It is the second largest volcanic base in the world. Elgon offers great hiking and trekking, huge caves to explore and a diversity of funky montane flora.

boys collecting firewood on Mount Elgon

Local boys collecting firewood on Mount Elgon. They raced up and down the hillside as we walked – and slid – tentatively downwards. PHOTO Nicola Swann

Climbing Mount Elgon is one of my favourite Uganda travel experiences. The sore knee and blisters are long forgotten, and I’m ready to scale the summit again. You’re unlikely to see much wildlife while you’re climbing Mt. Elgon, but there is abundant birdlife. In 2013, the Uganda Wildlife Authority team won the annual Big Birding Day event by notching up a record sighting of 400 species in one 24 hour period.

Hiking Mount Elgon is worth it for the scenery alone. We passed through seven different types of vegetation, many I’d never seen before.

Bagisu children Mount Elgon

The largest tribe around Mount Elgon are the Bagisu

Generally, people overnight at Sipi Falls before climbing Mount Elgon. Indeed, the magnificent 100 metre high Sipi Falls are an adventure in themselves. There are three waterfalls in all. Here you can go mountain biking, hiking, abseiling, rock-climbing and fly fishing.

Need some headspace? Go climb Wagagai! Mount Elgon


Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron

Top of the Falls, Murchison Falls National Park

There is an inevitability about the constant flow of the River Nile that I find quite overwhelming.

I find myself imagining the distance this water has travelled. Day and night, night and day, for tens of thousands of years, billions of gallons of water have raced through Murchison Falls en route to the Mediterranean. Kingdoms have risen and fallen, we live, we die, but still the water keeps coming. Imagine if the Nile had a memory: what stories would it tell us!

Aerial view Murchison Falls, Uhuru Falls, Wild Frontiers Uganda
Aerial view of Murchison Falls (to the right) and Uhuru Falls. PHOTO Wild Frontiers Uganda
Murchison Falls. Devil's Cauldron, Wild Frontiers. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
The Devil’s Cauldron is mesmerising! Photo taken looking upriver. Murchison Falls, Uganda. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Diary of a Muzungu. Wild Frontiers. Top of Murchison Falls
The Devil’s Cauldron. Looking downriver. Murchison Falls, Uganda

There are several vantage points at the top of Murchison Falls, arguably the biggest draw to the National Park. To the right of the drop-off point, there is a glimpse upstream of where the River Nile is half a kilometre wide. See the staggering speed of the water, racing towards a gap in the rocks that is just seven metres wide. The water flows ferociously fast. It is breath-taking.

I stand at the edge of this incredible feat of nature, trying – but failing – to comprehend its total and utter awesomeness. Oh, how microscopic and unimportant I feel with my little camera!

Diary of a Muzungu. River Nile. Top of Murchison Falls
Once there was a footbridge crossing the narrowest point of the River Nile. The water speeds through this point ferociously fast
Devil's Cauldron. Top of Murchison Falls
This is my dad 🥰 inspecting the Devil’s Cauldron at the Top of Murchison Falls, Uganda

Thousands of people have taken photographs of the Top of the Falls so I can’t pretend I can improve on others’ incredible shots. The truth is, you cannot possibly capture the essence of Murchison Falls with a camera. You need to visit.

You need to see it with your own eyes.

You need to smell the river, feel its thundering power beneath your feet, listen to its roar, let the spray touch your body…

The water mesmerises me. Its power is so compelling. I feel its draw as I stand by the railings above the Devil’s Cauldron, the point where the River Nile plummets, crashes and explodes down a 43 metre drop.

It’s both exciting and scary.

How small I am. Stand in the wrong place and certain death is instant. I would be swept away in a second; indeed, more than one person has chosen to end their life at Murchison Falls. The river’s huge Nile crocodiles (some measuring an astonishing four or five metres long) are unlikely to mean a body is recovered either. There is a strong link between waterfalls and death in Uganda: certain waterfalls in the south west are historically associated with some macabre practices, like the forced ‘damping’ (dumping or drowning) of young women who were perceived to have broken the strict moral codes of the day.

I record a short video clip. As much as I am recording, I’m watching too, trying to make sense of what I am seeing, struggling to understand it. Although every scene is like every other: ‘water cascades over rock’ / ‘water shoots up into the air’ ad infinitum, it has a life of its own. Amongst the voluminous cascades and torrents are microscopic droplets that dance ghost-like in the air for a second before being consumed into a cloud of mist.

Murchison Falls Devil's Cauldron rainbow
At times, miniature rainbows are visible as sunlight filters through the spray in the Devil’s Cauldron

The water wears many costumes. At once dramatic and imposing, in a split second it is intriguing and dainty. I see magic everywhere.

I suddenly feel a gust of wind. I am safely behind the railing but I feel the wind catch me. Is it blowing me away from the water or pulling me towards it? Is my imagination playing tricks on me? I take a few steps backwards. I’m so lost in watching the movement of the water from the safety of my camera screen that I’m wary of the water tricking me. (See what personality I have given it)? It may only be water but I feel it has a life of its own. It makes me nervous.

The moment is a reminder to put the camera down. You can’t beat the full-frontal vision of Murchison Falls and I cherish the sensation of the river’s spray dancing over my face and bare legs.

The Devil’s Cauldron! Diary of a Muzungu goes to the Top of Murchison Falls with Wild Frontiers from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

“The water level has dropped,” Evelyn tells me. “Before, you would get completely soaked standing here” she says, as we pose for photographs next to the safety rails on the small outcrop of rock above the Devil’s Cauldron. (I wrote this story in 2017 – what devastation the high waters have wrought since!)

Murchison Falls. Top of the Falls with Wild Frontiers. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Top of Murchison Falls with Evelyn and Joan from Wild Frontiers Entebbe office. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga

Sadly, we don’t have time today to walk down to the Bottom of Murchison Falls. It’s a steep walk, on a decent path with handrails and, if you plan it well, you can catch a boat from the bottom. It is only by taking this path that you have the imposing sight of both Murchison Falls (once known as Kabalega Falls) and the lesser-known Uhuru Falls.

View of Murchison Falls and Uhuru Falls, Uganda
View of Murchison Falls and Uhuru Falls, Uganda. You have to take the walk to / from the Bottom of the Falls to appreciate this incredible sight

Tip: take the time to do this excellent walk, for if you do, you will have one photo of Murchison Falls that your friends don’t!

A bit of history

Originally the falls were known as Kabalega Falls. Indeed, some Ugandans continue to refer to the indigenous name. However, explorer Sir Samuel Baker renamed Murchison Falls after Sir Roderick Murchison, president of the Royal Geographical Society. (He also renamed Lake Mwitanzige to Lake Albert, in honour of Queen Victoria’s ‘consort’ Albert). The Sir Samuel and Lady Florence Baker Historical Trail runs 805 km (500 km) through the African bush, and recalls the 1864 route they took from South Sudan into Murchison Falls National Park. The Trail features on National Geographic’s World’s Best Hikes: 20 Dream Trails.

The muzungu’s Murchison Falls travel tips

I travelled to Murchison Falls with Wild Frontiers Uganda and stayed at the superb Baker’s Lodge, on the southern bank of the river, in a luxury thatched safari suite looking straight onto the Nile. We ate every scrumptious meal outside and I even had a dip in the swimming pool. (No extra charge for the soothing sound of hippos munching outside your cottage as you fall asleep!) DISCLAIMER: sadly the Nile has completely consumed this gorgeous lodge!

Diary of a Muzungu. Baker's Lodge. Murchison Falls
Breakfast on the deck, underneath the Sausage Tree! Diary of a Muzungu chills out at Baker’s Lodge. Murchison Falls National Park

Watch out for the crocodiles & hippos! (Very amateur film) of the boat ride to the Bottom of Murchison Falls from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

The scum on the surface of the river water is created by the turbulent Falls and is composed of organic matter (rotting fish and hippo, to be exact!)

The walk from the Top to the Bottom of the Falls (and back up) costs and takes one to 1 to 1 ½ hours. It costs $10 / $10 / 10,000 UGX (tourists / foreign residents / EAC citizens) according to the Uganda Wildlife Authority’ tariff for 2022.

Murchison Falls seen from Wild Frontiers boat
Murchison Falls seen from one of the Wild Frontiers Uganda boats

Wild Frontiers and Uganda Wildlife Authority both run boat trips up and down the River Nile. I took the Wild Frontiers boat cruise to the Bottom of the Falls “possibly the world’s most powerful waterfall in terms of the force of water ejected from the Falls itself.”

Top of Murchison Falls. View downriver towards the ferry crossing and the Delta. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Top of Murchison Falls. View downriver towards the ferry crossing and the Delta. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga

Another superb experience in Murchison Falls is the Delta cruise with Wild Frontiers’ excellent guides Milton and Dan. On our trip, they located not one but three rare Shoebills!

Shoebill, River Nile Delta, Murchison Falls. Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga
Shoebill, River Nile Delta, Murchison Falls. Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga

[Click here to learn about the horrendous plan to dam Murchison Falls!]

Wild Frontiers are the only company to offer a private Bush Breakfast on the northern bank of the Nile. The best way to experience this is by first taking the early morning Delta cruise. After breakfast, you can circle back to your lodge via a game drive through the park. The Muzungu has enjoyed 😊

Have you been on safari in Murchison Falls National Park?

Sundowners, star-gazing & tales from the bush

A weekend at Nile Safari Lodge and lunch at Masindi Hotel

There’s a cool breeze coming off the Nile tonight.

My banda at Nile Safari Lodge is open-netted on three sides. Set on stilts above the riverbank, it is airy and spacious. My banda has a wide veranda overlooking the river.

The two-tone noise beyond the nets can only be a frog. It is so loud that in my mind’s eye I imagine the frog to be a foot long! We hear the occasional HONK of a hippo.

Pod of hippo, River Nile Murchison Falls
Pod of hippo on the River Nile in Murchison Falls National Park

The background noise is a symphony of crickets. According to Zahid, “all you have to do is clap your hands and the noise of the crickets will stop, for 15 seconds at least, and then they will resume. Don’t worry, they automatically shut down by around 10.30pm !” The muzungu isn’t concerned. I look forward to the crickets lulling me to sleep before too long.

A lunch stop at Masindi Hotel

At Masindi Hotel, we received a friendly, understated welcome before eating a simple salad. (The heat in the middle of the day was too hot to consider eating anything else). The service was polite and swift.

Masindi Hotel is one of the original government-owned Uganda Hotels, and was managed well until Amin’s day. It and many others were sold off in the 1990s. Standards slipped. According to the hotel information, Masindi is the oldest Uganda Hotel, built in 1923. It is Indian owned now and has touches of classic Indian decor to complement the original building design and classic gardens. The hardwood interiors of the main living areas are beautifully done. The main building has welcoming bright yellow paintwork.

Hemingway plane crash Murchison Daily News 1954
The dramatic headline of January 1954 was in fact untrue. Hemingway survived not one but TWO plane crashes in Murchison Falls!

Famous guests have included Ernest Hemingway, Kathryn Hepburn and Humphrey Bogart. The Kabalega Restaurant is named “in honour of the legacy of his Majesty Chwa II.” What history! What associations! What a shame this place is not better utilised. [Masindi Hotel has undergone a substantial facelift since I wrote this story].

Driving from Masindi to Murchison Falls National Park

The approach to Murchison Falls National Park is dusty. As we drive the dirt roads approaching the main gate, we close the windows and put the AC on. This is tsetse fly territory. I’d forgotten about those nuisance insects. (Guess who’s wearing a bright blue dress to enter the park? Tsetse flies are strongly attracted to the exact shade of blue that I’m wearing).

Zahid has been visiting Murchison Falls all his life. He points to the bridge that his engineer father constructed. “There used to be so many elephants and buffalo on this side of the river that we had to stop. We could not pass.” These days, most big mammals are confined to the north bank of the Nile.

Abyssinian Ground Hornbill Murchison Falls, safari
Abyssinian Ground Hornbills are frequently seen on the drive to Murchison Falls National Park. This photo was taken on a previous safari when the bush was green – not dry and dusty like it it’s been this March

There are no other vehicles on the road. Our only road companions are baboons, Buffalo, a Marabou Stork, a pair of Helmeted Guineafowl and one of my favourite birds, the Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, its curled eyelashes long enough to make any girl jealous. Flashes of bright blue are the tell-tale sign of Woodland Kingfishers. Swirling flashes of green are Cinnamon-chested Beeeaters.

We enter the park on World Wildlife Day.

Arrival at Nile Safari Lodge

We arrive at Nile Safari Lodge late afternoon.

It’s March and it’s hot. Rain has hit Kampala but barely reached this part of Uganda yet. There have been bush fires. A few drops of rain have brought green leaves to the tips of burnt bush.

Nile Safari Lodge, chain and anchor, Murchison Falls, Uganda
A gigantic chain and anchor line the walkway to Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Uganda

After a friendly welcome at the lodge, I watch ten monkeys picking fresh shoots from the tree next to reception. The monkeys are obviously happy here; there are many young among their group. They’re not scared by us, nor do they beg. Humans and monkeys coexist happily at Nile Safari Lodge.

Welcome to Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls. Altitude sign
Welcome to Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls. Altitude 2134 feet / 646 metres

As we enjoy our sundowners on the deck below the dining area, we spot the flapping ears of an elephant on the distant bank of the River Nile. He gently tugs at the long grass as he saunters upstream. Three Grey Herons fly by. An African open-billed stork and a cormorant fish below us. To our right is a small island that is popular with a pod of hippo and a dozen elephants who swim from the shore. We spot waterbuck too.

elephant Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison, Uganda
Ah… I feel relaxed all over again when I see this elephant! At times, there was a small herd of elephant visible on this island

Nile Safari Lodge was the first lodge to be built on the south bank of the Nile in Murchison Falls National Park and still has the best view of the river. I remember when I first visited in 2010: we arrived mid-afternoon to see 20 elephants at the river’s edge on the opposite bank of the river.

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Uganda Nile view
Enjoy views of the Nile from Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls

What a lovely spot in which to wile away a few quiet days. It’s low season and there are only two other guests, a Ugandan lady and her Hungarian husband. We share a dinner table as we enjoy thick creamy home-made soup and the tastiest Nile Perch. The beers are cold and there’s plenty of ice. With freshly squeezed juice for breakfast (no added sugar), fruits and a cooked breakfast of eggs, sausage, tomato and toast, I really should have done a bit more exercise! Lunch and dinner are both three course affairs.

Early morning on the River Nile

Something on the roof awakens me the next morning. It takes a few moments to realise that there are monkeys overhead! They are so sure-footed, I swear they are human.

I go back to sleep and wake to sounds coming from the river: a flock of Pied Kingfishers and the occasional early morning launch boat, heading out for the start of today’s fishing competition. My morning tea arrives promptly. Hot water is brought for my morning ablutions. I love this banda. If I leave all the doors open, I can watch the River Nile from my open-air shower.

Nile Crocodile, Bottom of the Falls, Murchison
Nile Crocodile, Bottom of the Falls, Murchison

Our breakfast conversations are about crocodiles and hippos – near escapes in fact! Zahid’s friend “Crocodile Dog” had a lucky escape. He lived to tell the tale of his attack by a croc – albeit “minus one leg.”

“Those things come out of nowhere!” Zahid says, as he tells us another tale of lucky escape. Luckily for us, Nile Safari Lodge is high enough above the river to ensure visits by crocodiles and hippos are impossible.

Zahid Alam, Wolfgang Thome, Diary of a Muzungu. Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls
What a relaxing few days, with our host lodge owner Zahid Alam and East Africa tourism expert Professor Dr Wolfgang Thome, at Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls

Pakuba Lodge frequently comes up in conversation. There are rumours that this historical lodge will be refurbished one day. For now, nature has reclaimed Amin’s old lodge. “I saw two porcupines cornering a hyena there once,” Wolfgang tells us. I’ve also heard rumours of a resident leopard. Look what the BBC cauught on camera at Amin’s Pakuba Lodge!

ruins of original Pakuba Lodge Murchison Falls Uganda
Ruins of the original Pakuba Lodge, northern Murchison Falls National Park Uganda

(The Pakuba Lodge where I stayed to view Uganda’s extraordinary solar eclipse is in fact the revamped former staff housing of the original Pakuba).

Murchison Falls National Park has seen many changes. Murchison was Amin’s favourite National Park. It later became Joseph Kony‘s favourite park, making it a no-go area for many years. This was back in the 1990s and the park’s wildlife is thriving again, although oil drilling is the next challenge.

Diary of a Muzungu. capped oil head Murchison Falls
The subject of oil comes up frequently during my weekend visit to Murchison Falls. We checked out some of the capped oil heads, which are quiet (for now)

In search of Bugungu Fort

One morning, our driver Adong takes us to the site of Bugungu Fort, one of Samuel Baker’s forts. (It’s rumoured that an oil pipe may soon be laid right next to it).

Here, the River Nile is inside the National Park so fishing is prohibited. Of course, some people still try, especially since it’s impossible to police every inch of the river. Traditional crops include cotton, sweet potatoes and cassava but it’s been dry for months now. There is evidence of fires all around us.

cotton store near Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Uganda
A store for freshly-picked cotton store near Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls

After a morning talking about crocodiles and fires, my guide walks us down to the river past a small fire on which men are roasting cassava.

“Are there any crocodiles here?” I ask. “Oh yes!” Comes the opposite answer to the one I wanted. We walk through the fragment of Bugungu Forest. A few minutes into the forest and someone mentions tsetse flies. (Guess who’s wearing blue again?)

Where once was a wooden construction, all that remains of Bugungu Fort is a big hole in the ground like a small bomb crater. There are several large Mwai trees, complex trees whose convoluted branches have many smaller branches growing in every direction. They’re an important part of local culture.

Murchison Falls, Bugungu Fort
Exploring the remains of Bugungu Fort below the Mwai trees overlooking the Nile

We walk for another 10 minutes down to Delta Point, at the river’s edge. To the left is the Delta. To the right, upriver, are the famous Murchison Falls themselves. Here the riverbed is sandy. Further on, I spy a long straight pole poking from the surface of the river. It’s the unmistakable shape of a fishing pole. We look down to see a man’s pair of sandals next to it. The river comes under the jurisdiction of the Uganda Wildlife Authority. It is illegal to fish here.

We pause next to a Kigelia ‘sausage tree.’ I’ve always been fascinated by these weird-looking plants. Inedible in their raw form to humans, elephants love these huge fruits. You may know these fruits as the Amarula Tree. I quiz the local man about their uses for humans. Apparently peel one, boil the inside and you have a cure for Syphilis!

Murchison Falls, kigelia sausage tree
The unmistakeable Kigelia ‘sausage tree’ near Murchison Falls

For some reason, I’d assumed the fruit was hollow and light, like a gourd. It takes the muzungu two hands to lift one!

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, kigelia sausage tree fruit
One of the Kigelia fruit weighs as much as 15 kg.!

Adong picks up a wire. “This must be a snare,” he says. Although there is little wildlife on this bank of the river, according to Rogers from Nile Safari Lodge, “some small antelope do swim across the river” into a snare if they are unlucky. Here, downstream from Nile River Lodge, we are just outside the Protected Area of Murchison Falls National Park.

Murchison Falls, wire snare, Uganda
A simple wire snare can trap any animal

A few metres on, a young man stands next to the lakeshore. An older, barefooted man stands next to him. They look at us, we look back at them. He must have heard us approaching before distancing himself from his fishing rod.

It’s interesting to be back in the bush, seeing first-hand the ongoing battle against poachers. I spent my first three years in Uganda as a volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation fundraising to support the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s anti-poaching work in Queen Elizabeth. UCF are very active in Murchison Falls these days too.

Swimming at Nile Safari Lodge

After an intensely hot morning, it’s a relief to take a refreshing dip in the lodge’s pool. It is set away from the lodge and has a clear view of the River Nile. Massages can be organised at the tiny wooden structure below the swimming pool and above the riverbank. The masseuse has a great touch. I feel thoroughly spoiled.

tree blossom Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls
After the first rains, plants and trees blossom instantly

One night we enjoy a vibrant performance by twenty Acholi dancers from the local village. The men wear elaborate feather headdresses which bounce up and down to the rhythm of the calabashes. The traditional drumming, the energetic hip-swaying of the dancers and the open fireplace make for a great atmosphere.

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Uganda lamps

If you are into stargazing, you must bring your telescope.

Zahid showed us great views of Venus ‘evening star’ and a close-up of the moon’s cratered surface. Wow! I’ll never see the moon in the same way again. To the naked eye, Venus and the Moon appear a similar size but Zahid tells us Venus is a staggering 60 million miles away while the Moon is a mere 250,000 miles away.

Shoebill Camp – for the best view of the River Nile

Shoebill Camp is a spacious setting overlooking the Nile, adjacent to Nile Safari Lodge. I camped here with my sister on my first visit. This can be a great arrangement for people who are on a budget, or who like camping but not cooking! For just $10 a night, you have a whole field to yourself, a cold shower and flushing toilets. The security guard can light a fire for you too. It’s just five minutes’ walk through the bush to the lodge where you can enjoy all your meals and cold drinks, and the swimming pool (for an additional fee).

Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls, Shoebill Camp

I’ll always remember how after dinner at the lodge, my sister and I were escorted through the bush by an elderly man with a bow and arrow. Our path through the vegetation was lit by glow-worms. It was magic.

Early morning mist River Nile, Shoebill Camp, Murchison
My sister! Early morning mist on the River Nile, Shoebill Camp, Murchison

Nile Safari Lodge is about to embark on a comprehensive refurbishment programme. With just a few touches here and there, I’m sure that Nile River Lodge will once again be the go-to place that it was for many years.

A big thank you to Zahid, John, Rogers and Dennis (who remembered me after a seven year absence!) It’s been particularly lovely to be back in a lodge where I have such happy memories of a family safari too.

Diary of a Muzungu’s travel highlights – across Uganda and Kenya

The Muzungu’s travel highlights of 2012 – Kibale Forest, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Murchison Falls, community tourism in Mabira Forest, Lonely Planet, Nairobi – and two Royal Weddings!

Life in Uganda has tested me in many ways and 2012 was ‘challenging’ as we say around here – but I’m still here ‘living the dream’ (on a good day!)

The year ended on a real high, literally – waking up on Christmas Day in a treehouse overlooking Kibale Forest to the sound of chimpanzees and forest birds.

We had a feast! – with “all the trimmings” of a British Christmas dinner, including bread sauce, crackers, naff jokes, silly hats and Christmas stockings, all imported specially for the occasion.

metal trunk oven Uganda

A Kibale Forest special! The metal trunk oven worked a treat. We even had roast potatoes. Bahati cooks Christmas dinner for 12

Kibale Forest to Queen Elizabeth National Park

After Christmas we put the Baby Car (a.k.a. Mimi) through her paces. Our party of twelve people went on a 4 wheel driving adventure along the muddy marram tracks across heavenly crater lake country, en route to Queen Elizabeth National Park for a couple of days Safari, a luxury overnight in Volcanoes’ Kyambura Lodge and the most brilliant water safari and birdwatching day out on a boat trip on the Kazinga Channel. Simpson saw his first hippos and crocodiles! – I adore the waterways’ incredible birdlife (TWITCH!)

family pose, Queen Elizabeth Equator, Uganda

family pose, Queen Elizabeth Equator, Uganda

It’s almost a year since my last trip for our epic bird-ringing week-end at Julia’s amazing home in Kibale Forest – maybe that’s where I’ll write my book?  Chimp alert! or muzungu bolthole?

From there Julia and I travelled to the wide open savannah of Ishasha where we’d jumped in an elephant trench and had a go at maintaining the matooke (banana) plantation – all in a day’s work for the Bazungu!

Why I love elephant dung! tells the story.

Back in Kampala, my photographer friend Javi and I rocked up to State House, the President’s office. Javi asked me to collaborate with him on a book about Uganda and we have the makings of a great project – we just need someone to pay for it! And so we spent Valentine’s Day sweltering on the veranda as our 10 a.m. meeting got put back and back and back. By 4 p.m. we finally had our slot with one of the President’s Permanent Secretaries, a charming lady called Grace: but alas the answer was NO.

We didn’t get to meet The Man With The Hat (The Big Man) either. Boo, hoo Valentine’s Day, no red rose, no book deal, not nuffink.

Uganda souvenir map photo montage. Uganda travel blog

I love seeing everyone’s favourite Uganda memories – this one went back to Scotland with fellow VSO volunteers Stuart and Elisabeth

September saw the launch of the Uganda photo souvenir map Facebook page. The Uganda map is designed by Andrew Roberts, a UCF Director and co-editor of the Bradt travel guide. Special thanks to ‘Chimp Girl’ Julia Lloyd and Harriet ‘Ebola’ Fowler for commissioning photo maps and for all your support! Each montage is individually created with your photos and 10% of sales go to the Uganda Conservation Foundation to help fight poaching in the National Parks – now at its worst level in decades.

Poaching is fuelled mostly by the growth of the Chinese middle classes and facilitated by China’s growing networks and investments in East Africa. Check out my friend Anne-Marie’s brilliant article about poaching in Uganda, entitled There is a lot of it about.

In October, I was delighted to welcome fellow Lonely Planet* blogger, Isabel Romano, on her first trip to Africa. After a visit to Ggaba market on Lake Victoria and a relaxing lunch at Cassia Lodge taking in the view, Ronald and I introduced her to a very different view of Kampala: a visit to Namuwongo slum.

Hanging with the kids in Namuwongo slum. Uganda travel blog

Ugandan kids have the best smiles! Thanks to Isabel Romano of www.diariodeabordo.com for this fabulous photo

To find out more about some of the excellent development work in Namuwongo slums, check out Events for Namuwongo on Facebook.

My friend Ronald is a professional dog trainer based in Kampala. I love my walks with him and De Boys – Baldrick and Percy!

My favourite Uganda dog moments

The best friend a girl could have: the Dog with the Waggiest Tail. Coming to Uganda gave me the chance to have my first dog, Baldrick, my parter in crime in many of my blog stories. Here are some of my favourite moments.

Namuwongo is dear to my heart – the first place I lived in Uganda.

Murchison Falls National Park

I celebrated my birthday with Red Chilli’s at their camp in Murchison Falls National Park, where we partied all week-end to celebrate the camp’s tenth birthday. A percentage of all the camp’s profits go to support the Steve Willis Memorial Fund.

Anne-Marie and I should have known better: as we entered the Park, we opened the car doors in exactly the wrong spot letting vicious biting Tsetse flies loose in the car. We spent the weekend itching, scratching and regretting it!

Rothschild's Giraffe Murchison Falls National Park. Uganda travel blog

You can’t help but fall in love with the Rothschild’s Giraffes in  Murchison Falls National Park

Queen Elizabeth National Park

Tembo Canteen on Mweya Peninsula in Queen Elizabeth is possibly the best location in the world to endure three days of PowerPoint presentations, with Mike Cant’s talk about mongooses being the highlight. Kabina squashed on a hard wooden benche, I loved reconnecting with my conservation friends for UWA’s research symposium: Dianah, Phionah and Richard from NatureUganda, Aggie and Dr Margaret from UWA, Gladys of Conservation Through Public Health, Alex, Erik and Emmanuel from UCF, Alastair and Andy from Wildlife Conservation Society. Poaching, invasive species, climate change and human wildlife conflict are just some of the big issues UWA is challenged with.

The weekend finished with a boat trip on the Kazinga Channel. The eager eyes of a warden even spotted a leopard, a distant dot high up on the hillside! We certainly didn’t expect to see a leopard in broad daylight from the boat, but that’s the wonderful thing about going on Safari – every outing is different.

Birds and bird watching in Uganda

By the way, if you like birds you might enjoy some of the muzungu’s Uganda birding stories, now grouped on one handy page inspired by attending the UK Bird Fair and hanging out with expert birders Roger, Malcolm, David Lindo ‘the Urban Birder’ and Aussie Chris Watson.

African Fish Eagles Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park

African Fish Eagles on the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park

The best community tourism projects in Uganda are promoted by UCOTA

The UCOTA community tourism fam trip was another highlight. We had a lot of fun, as you will read in – Can you play the Xylophone? – and got to meet the real people living on the edges of Queen Elizabeth National Park. Theirs is not an easy life.

Honey never tasted so good!

Honey never tasted so good!

A wave of patriotism flooded Uganda in 2012 as the country celebrated 50 years of independence. Needless to say it also brought up a lot of discontent, mostly aimed at the current regime’s 26 years in power. My contribution to the party? 50 reasons why I love Uganda – my most popular blog ever.

A moment of feeling homesick…

I felt a twinge of homesickness as I thought of all my friends and family celebrating the Queen’s Golden Jubilee and the London Olympics. British expat friends dressed in the red, white and blue of the Union Jack and gathered round a TV set in Kololo to watch the celebrations along the Thames.

Cha, Amy and Jennie. Diamond Jubilee Kampala

Cha, Amy and Jennie. Diamond Jubilee Kampala

Diamond Jubilee. London Bridge on TV 2012

I was glad to be able to get a glimpse of London Bridge on TV. I felt quite homesick for a moment! Diamond Jubilee 2012

Uganda was delighted to welcome home the Marathon gold Olympic medallist Kipsoro. It seemed to be a typical Ugandan achievement – mpole, mpole ‘slowly by slowly’ – wait until the very last event to win a medal…! Ugandans are rightly proud of this homegrown talent, who actually trained in next door Kenya.

boda boda. Uganda travel blog

A wave of patriotism swept across Uganda in 2012. Boda boda photo courtesy of journalist photographer Amy Fallon http://www.amyfallon.com/

Running across East Africa, with the Hash House Harriers – and a Royal Wedding

I know a lot of talented runners. Kampala’s Seven Hills race (or does Kampala have 22 hills now?) certainly keeps us fit! At 1000 metres above sea level, rumour has it that if we train here in Kampala, we return to the lower lands of Europe with more stamina. (I certainly huffed and puffed my way up Tank Hill in Muyenga, Kampala for a few months before I acclimatised to the increase in altitude).

Buganda Kingdom wedding envelope

An invitation from the Buganda Kingdom

Regular Diary of a Muzungu blog readers will know of my Monday evening antics with the Kampala Hash House Harriers, that have taken me to all corners of Kampala, Jinja, Nairobi and even Ethiopia. I felt a million Muganda ladies sigh (and maybe a couple of Muzungu ones too) as the Buganda Kingdom announced the engagement of our friend Prince David Wassaja. We wish you all de best Federo! The Muzungu was honoured to be invited to the Buganda Royal Wedding.

De Prince tries to keep a low profile on the Kampala Jinja relay. Uganda travel blog

De Prince tries to keep a low profile as he passes villagers on the annual Kampala Jinja relay

Diary of a Muzungu. Wasajja royal wedding

I was honoured to attend the wedding of Prince Wasajja at the Lubiri in Mengo

Northern Uganda comes to Kampala

In April we welcomed back the sometimes controversial comedienne Jane Bussman to Kampala for another run of her award-winning show, entitled “The worst date ever – or how it took a comedy writer to expose Africa’s secret war.” It was a sell-out night in Kampala. All proceeds from Jane’s show went to complete construction of a house for ex-LRA child soldiers in Northern Uganda.

Meeting new tribes in Nairobi, Kenya

Nairobi Sarit Centre. Diary of a Muzungu

The Muzungu and new friends from Turkana and Pokot tribes, Kenya. The tourism show at Nairobi’s Sarit Centre whet my appetite for more East African travel

Check out the Muzungu with my new friends – the guy looks very cute! Kenya is only a bus ride away and I need to explore the country further!

The two are not connected 😉

Shopping sugarcane plantation, Mabira, Jinja

We stopped for a spot of shopping – in the middle of the sugarcane plantation, Mabira, Jinja

Griffin Falls Ecocamp, Mabira Forest, Jinja

Set in the heart of Mabira Forest, Griffin Falls campsite is a charming little hideaway.

Enkima red-tailed monkey mural, Griffin Falls Camp, Mabira

Enkima red-tailed monkey mural, one of many on display at Griffin Falls Camp, Mabira

The banda accommodation and food are basic and cheap; if you’re happy with cold bucket showers and a kerosene lamp, you’ll love this place. Isla and I hired bikes for a guided tour of the Forest and the Falls and I even saw my first Grey Cheeked Mangabey! Hussein and Peter (tel +256(0)751949368 / +256(0)751955671) are very friendly and knowledgeable about the forest’s birds and trees, under threat from so-called developers. The campsite is a real gem.

PHEW! Well I’ve worn myself out just reliving all of that lot…! Time for a lie-down now…

So what does the New Year hold for the Muzungu?

2013 is my year – and hopefully Uganda’s too, after National Geographic voted Uganda one of the top 20 places to visit in 2013.

*Sadly, after four years, Lonely Planet has dropped its links with Diary of a Muzungu and the 100s of other travel bloggers featured on its web site, after Lonely Planet was sold to the BBC. Farewell #lp we’ve had a good run. We in Uganda loved being Lonely Planet’s no. 1 destination to visit in 2012 and working with Lonely Planet bloggers to create a free downloadable book of photography was a personal highlight.

Moving house Ugandan style. PHOTO Mark Thriscutt

Moving house Ugandan style. PHOTO Mark Thriscutt

Diary of a Muzungu now accepts guest posts so if you have a story you want to share with the world, please get in touch! Thanks to my first guest blogger Mark Penhallow for a hilarious blog about Driving in Kampala

If you haven’t visited Uganda yet, feel free to explore my blog or drop the Muzungu an email for more Uganda and East Africa travel ideas. Wishing you an adventure-filled New Year!

Be part of something BIG!

The Uganda Kob and the Grey Crested Crane adorn the country's crest

The Uganda Kob and the Grey Crested Crane adorn the country’s crest  – (which bird will replace it in 20 years time when the bird is extinct?)

“Birding@50” focuses on the plight of Uganda’s national symbol, the Grey Crowned Crane.

While the country has been (for the most part) celebrating 50 years of independence, Uganda’s national symbol is in crisis. The Grey Crowned Crane is under serious threat as her wetlands habitats are polluted, eroded, degraded and built upon. Human development is swallowing up the wetlands.

Left unchallenged, the Crane will not survive, and it is estimated that the Grey Crowned (or ‘Crested’) Crane will be extinct in Uganda within just 20 years.

The Grey Crowned Crane, also known as the Crested Crane

Ironically, the fact that Cranes are monogamous birds that pair for life is one of the factors pushing them towards extinction. Some people hold the traditional belief that eating or using a Crane product will therefore strengthen their own relationship.

 

NatureUganda is leading the campaign to save the Crane.

We urge individuals and the authorities to protect the wetlands. We need people to ask themselves “when did you last see a young or adult Crane? Do you see them as often now as you did when you were a child?”

It is no coincidence that as humans encroach upon the wetlands, the number of Cranes has plummeted across the country.

NatureUganda’s Achilles Byaruhanga tells us more about this sensational bird in The Crested Crane: Uganda’s symbol of beauty and serenity

 

So why am I talking about this?

It’s because this Saturday 20th October will be BIG BIRDING DAY 2012!

BBD is a country-wide “big birding race” between birding groups, led by experienced bird guides, who will aim to record as many bird species as possible in a single 24 hour period.

NatureUganda has 47 teams registered so far, across the country. More teams are registering, making this the biggest BBD ever!

There’s free entry for all participants birding in National Parks, Wildlife Reserves and Forest Reserves – but you need to register with NatureUganda first.

The results of the BBD race will be announced during the Big Birding festival on Saturday 27th October 2012 at Entebbe Botanic Gardens. See poster for more details!

The importance of Birds

Despite the large number of birds in Uganda – almost half the continent’s species – very few Ugandans are aware of the country’s rich diversity. The “Uganda Big Birding Day” helps promote avi-conservation and avi-tourism – bird conservation and tourism or ‘birding.’ Although avi-tourism is developing in Uganda, very few locals take part – yet! More trained bird guides are needed!

If you like birds, you might enjoy some of my other stories about birding in Uganda.

Big Birding Day Uganda 2012

Check out all these lovely FREE events! Big Birding Day Uganda 2012

Why I love elephant dung!

Visit these two brilliant community tourism projects in Ishasha: Deo’s Homestead Tour and Agartha’s Taste of Uganda Tour

elephant trench Ishasha Queen Elizabeth National Park

Diary of a Muzungu with Deo the farmer and his family, on the edge of the elephant trench that borders Queen Elizabeth National Park. Here Deo is showing us how he burns chilli and elephant dung to deter elephants from crossing the trench into his garden

boy in elephant trench Ishasha Queen Elizabeth National Park

One of Deo’s sons illustrates how big an elephant’s footprint is! Maintaining the trench is a constant job. Elephants, buffalo and bushpigs can access the trench from poorly maintained sections. Standing in the elephant trench. Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park

Signpost to Deo's community tourism project Ishasha

Signpost to Deo’s Model Homestead Tour, a community tourism project in Ishasha. Leaving Kihihi trading centre, drive for 20 minutes, through the next trading centre. Deo’s is on the left, immediately before the park boundary. His homestead is a few minutes drive from the main road

You might not believe it but it was elephants – or what comes out of the back end of them – that first brought me to Uganda.

Colleagues back in London laughed out loud when I told them about the first project that the Uganda Conservation Foundation had planned for me: collecting elephant dung with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, all part of a global project to analyse and map elephant DNA and crack down on ivory poaching.

“No shit?”

As it turned out, some other lucky bugger got this job, not the muzungu. Several weeks bouncing around in a 4 x 4 looking for elusive elephants may not have been quite as glamorous as I first thought anyway …

Kikarara elephant trench, south western Uganda

Diary of a Muzungu’s first visit to an elephant trench. This trench, also funded by the Uganda Conservation Foundation, is at Kikarara, in south western Uganda. Ideally, it should measure 2 metres wide by 2 metres deep, to stop elephants crossing into the fields of crops

Regardless, the muzungu has a soft spot for elephant dung (yes, I know ‘I have issues’) so I was delighted to be invited on my next adventure with Julia, heading back to Ishasha, south western Uganda, to check out Deo’s Homestead Tour (originally developed and funded as part of the Ishasha Community Uplift Project).

What – no bananas? No baby Dillon to bounce on my knee?

Community tourism, elephant conservation, a chance to meet the farmers, solutions for managing ‘human wildlife conflict’ – this very cool project ticks all the right boxes for me – with OR without bananas.

Sunrise south western Uganda. Community tourism

Sun rises over the fields of Ishasha, south western Uganda. Deo sleeps in this guarding hut every night on his land, away from his family, on the look-out for hungry elephants that may eat or destroy his entire harvest in just a half an hour. Here he’s holding a lump of elephant dung (and a panga machete).

Deo was full of smiles and runs a great Model Homestead. This charming little girl is one of his daughters. The even more charming muzungu is Yours Truly of course, ha ha, bleary-eyed after a night’s camping with Julia and no morning tea! EH BANANGE!

Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Meet Deo’s family. The whole family is involved in the tour of the model homestead. We felt very welcome!

tippy tap. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Deo explains how the tippy tap works, as his daughter gives us a demo. This simple construction of a foot-powered wooden ‘pedal’ tips the water from the jerry can. It means people can wash their hands without touching anything, and helps reduce the spread of germs. Clever eh? Community tourism in Ishasha, Uganda

After two and a half years fundraising to protect farmers such as Deo and his family from crop raiding elephants, it was quite an honour to be invited to tour Deo’s Model Homestead in Ishasha, bordering Queen Elizabeth National Park. Deo’s community tourism project was originally part of the Ishasha Community Uplift Project but has been managed by Deo himself since 2017. Deo and Agartha (a neighbouring lady farmer) stood out as exceptional members of their community group, transforming their homes (and thus their incomes and their health) into ‘model homesteads.’ Community tourism projects like these are the perfect way to show tourists how rural Ugandans live.

Below, Deo burns a combination of elephant dung and homegrown chilli as a deterrent to would-be elephant encroachers. He was very proud to show us his techniques – but boy he lives on the edge. Fancy doing this every night, just to survive? 

Homegrown chilli and elephant dung fire. Community tourism, Uganda

Elephant dung deterrent used by Deo the farmer in Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park

As well as a welcoming grin, Deo of course has an extra special feature: The Elephant Trench! – and he sure is proud of it!

UCOTA elephant trench maintenance. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha

Visitors to the trench are invited to get their hands dirty, literally! Felex Kamalha of UCOTA does his part. Rain can make the sides of the trench crumble. Hungry animals can soon find weak areas of the trench wall and attempt to cross into the fields of crops

Julia Lloyd. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Huge credit to (almost Dr.) Julia Lloyd who has been working hard to develop this brilliant interactive and educational tourism experience. Developing a community project and teaching the customer service skills expected by tourists can be challenging. The project is now self-sustaining!

human wildlife conflict, Deo's model homestead, Ishasha

When crop raiding animals approach his fields, Deo beats the jerry can loudly with a stick. This helps deter the animals and alerts the family and neighbours to come and make noise too

Muzungu banana pruning. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha

Deo shows Diary of a Muzungu how to use a machete to prune the banana plant. Stripping the dead leaves, with a diagonal slice of the machete, prevents water collecting and rotting the stem

Kihihi bike or chukudu. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha

One of the family shows us his wooden bike. The ‘Kihihi bike’ is actually an Eastern Congolese invention known as the chukudu or chikudu, and is used for transporting heavy goods. At Deo’s the kids play on it. Deo’s model homestead is approximately half an hour from the Congolese border by road

jackfruit tree, Deo's community tourism Uganda Ishasha

Deo’s Homestead Tour takes in fields of maize, bananas and medicinal plants. Here one of Deo’s sons climbs a jackfruit tree to see whether it is ripe. I love this project!

latrines at Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Deo the farmer gets 10 out of 10 for creativity – check out his latrines!

latrines at Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Inside the latrines at Deo’s Model Homestead. Note the soft leaves of the ‘toilet paper’ and the banana fibre basket lid cover over the hole of the pit latrine. The latrine is clean, does not smell and has no flies – a lot cleaner than the average toilet in Kampala!

We’re off to Kihihi again next week to see how Deo’s been getting on. I wonder what stories Deo will have in store for us? Which of his livestock has the leopard run off with this time? And more importantly, have the elephants visited recently?

How to book Deo’s homestead tour, Ishasha

Deo is a working farmer so please call him one or two days before you plan to visit him to make sure he is available. His phone number is +256 (0)781 201368. (His tour was developed through the Ishasha Community Uplift Project but he now runs his tour independently).

Agartha’s “Taste of Uganda” is now the main Ishasha Community Uplift Project tourism experience. Read all about it here How to be a Mukiga woman – meet Agartha!

To book Agartha’s, call one or more days in advance. Call the Wild Frontiers office on +256 (0)41 4322551 / 0772 721155 or call Agartha directly on 0776 453121. Note that the community are working farmers and need to plan for your arrival.

Sign up to the Muzungu’s occasional newsletter to read about these and other great community tourism projects!

Imagine: elephants swimming to an island!

Last week I had an elephant encounter  at Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe.

Baby elephant Charles at five months old

Baby elephant Charles loves to play football! Here he is at five months old

When you first encounter this baby elephant Charlie, thoughts of murder are far from your mind.

Originally from Queen Elizabeth National Park, Charles was brought to UWEC (a.k.a. the zoo) at the tender age of three weeks old, a victim of poachers that tragically saw him orphaned and then abandoned.

Fishermen of Hamukungu fishing village found baby Charles  abandoned on the shores of an island on Lake George, trying to swim. Since there were no other elephants nearby, and the baby was about to drown, the rescuers loaded Charles into their wooden dugout canoe and paddled him back to Hamukungu.

Can you imagine – seeing a baby elephant being paddled across the lake!

The fishermen were compensated for their quick-thinking by the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and fisherman Charles was delighted for the elephant to be named after him!

Two days after the dramatic marine rescue, the carcass of an adult male elephant with six bullet wounds to the head and thoracic regions (indicative of poachers) was found submerged, next to the same island. It’s suspected that ivory poachers may have scared the elephant family away, leaving behind the newborn baby.

On arrival at UWEC a week later, baby Charles was weak, exhausted, and extremely thirsty. He was believed to be about a week old, as the umbilical cord was still attached. He did not know how to suckle; neither did he know the taste of milk.

Bull elephant along the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park

Bull elephant feeding along the Kazinga Channel. Can you spot the hippo?

Organisations like the Uganda Conservation Foundation are working hard with UWA to stop poaching, remind local people of  the penalties for poaching and the benefits of community conservation. UCF is building the capacity of UWA to work on the waterways of Queen Elizabeth by providing boats, professional marine ranger training and ranger accommodation posts. Uganda’s National Parks were once teeming with wildlife but the politically unstable years of the 1970s and 80s killed off all the rhino and Queen Elizabeth’s elephant population dropped by approximately 80%. The population has been slowly recovering but tragically, the international trade in ivory is undergoing an unprecedented increase. At least 13 Ugandan elephants were killed for ivory in 2011 and they desperately need more protection.

To visit Charles or donate milk to feed him, contact UWEC on 0414 320 520 or 0414 320 169. UWEC is open every day from 8 am till 6 pm. You can also find UWEC on Facebook.

So how do you feed a baby elephant? 

Lessons in parenting from Mweya’s Mongooses!

A morning with the famous Banded Mongooses of Queen Elizabeth National Park

I often forget when we go out on safari how – even on short distances – a vehicle is necessary. And so, armed not with a gun or a machete, but a long radio antenna, we jumped into the back of a pickup truck and headed off the main track and into the scrubby bush.

The sun was shining as we watched Pink-backed Pelicans sailing down the Kazinga Channel towards us. Within just a few minutes, our researcher guides Solomon and Francis had tracked down our family, one of six habituated groups of Mongooses* living on the Mweya peninsula in Queen Elizabeth National Park, western Uganda. Over two decades of research have given Solomon, Kenneth and Francis an intimate knowledge of Mweya’s nine families of Banded Mongoose.

Banded Mongooses, Mweya, Queen Elizabeth National Park
Cute and fluffy or too much like a rat to you? Endlessly fascinating Mongooses

Our job for the morning was to weigh each of the 32-member family. But where do you start?

With a call of “coo-coo-coo-coo-coo” the mongooses come trotting out of the bush, snorting, sniffing, whistling and chirruping.

Well, would you believe it – these guys can be identified by their different haircuts! Every two weeks each mongoose has a number clipped into the fur onto its back to identify it. Regular monitoring is invaluable in monitoring their health.

Our family of Mongooses trot off into the Bush at Mweya
Our family of Mongooses trot off into the Bush at Mweya, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda

As the mongoose family rolled up, we set to work. Each mammal was individually weighed and its personal number and weight noted. (What impressed me was how Solomon managed to remember which individuals he’d weighed). Later, the data is compared to check that the mongoose pups are growing healthily and to monitor any pregnancies. 

During the weigh-in, the researchers told us about Mongoose society

Known as ‘cooperative breeders’ the female mongooses all give birth on the same day. Incredible! As many as 15 pups will be born in a day. A pup can be suckled by any of the females. Pups will then choose which male – the babysitters of the species – will care for them. According to Solomon, a pup can distinguish between a good or a bad parent. (These fascinating creatures could surely be good role models to a few men we could mention!)

If a subordinate female becomes pregnant, when the dominant four females aren’t, she will be “beaten up” in Solomon’s words, and forced to abort. If she’s lucky, she will then be allowed back into the group (the risk is that if subordinates keep getting pregnant, they threaten the dominance of the group). Examples of this behaviour were captured on the BBC TV series Banded Brothers, aired in 2010.

A wonderful clip from ‘Banded Brothers’ | BBC Earth. Tragically, Mary the elephant – one of the series stars – was later poisoned

When I commented on how healthy the mongooses looked, Solomon replied “Yes, these are rich guys. They live near the Lodge!” Rubbish from Mweya Lodge and the Uganda Wildlife Authority hostel is collected and taken to a covered pit, but with so many tourists passing through Mweya, it’s inevitable there are still scraps of food to be scavenged.

Beetles, insects, small snakes, rodents, lizards and eggs are all part of a mongoose’s diet.
Beetles, insects, small snakes, rodents, lizards and eggs are all part of a mongoose’s diet

When they find a rat “they go crazy and make a lot of noise” to attract the rest of the group to the hunt. We watched as a Mongoose (carefully) attacked a giant Millipede, bashing it against the ground to first remove its poison. The others were quick to dive in and help him eat it.

When they’re not busy foraging or fighting, mongooses can be seen removing the ticks and lice from compliant warthogs. Did you know this behaviour only happens in Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park? Other unusual behaviour witnessed here was the Mongoose who took a dip in the lodge pool!

To get closer to the action, I sat on a tuft of grass at the edge of the track. Note: sitting down on the bare grass is not recommended. By afternoon, my legs were itching like crazy!

As we talked, we heard a car pass along the track above us. Every Mongoose was on high alert, heads turned in the direction of the noise, on their back legs, scanning the horizon. With a piercing shriek, the crew scattered. They headed for cover, as one.

“If they see a Leopard they will just freak and run. Even if they find the dung of a lion, they run!” (And so might I!)

The Mongoose’s greatest enemies are the Leopard and the Python. Just recently a Leopard had attacked their den and eaten five of them. At Kabatoro Gate, a Python had eaten a mongoose wearing the radio collar. They’d tracked the perpetrator of course!

The Mongooses Experience in Queen Elizabeth National Park

How to book the Mongooses Experience

A few hours – or longer – in the presence of these knowledgeable researchers, who so obviously love their subjects, is a great way to get up close to nature, support conservation and see the park from a different angle. Unlike some other wildlife experiences, you can get out of the car and even let the Mongooses run between your feet.

The experience can be booked with the Uganda Wildlife Authority.

What is so special about mongooses?

There are 32 species of Mongooses in the world, of which only four are social: the Meercats, the Dwarf, the Yellow and the Banded Mongooses.

The Banded Mongoose Research project is run by the universities of Cambridge, Exeter and Zürich (and has links to more photos and video footage). And why are they studying Uganda’s Banded Mongooses? “These ‘cooperatively breeding’ societies pose a challenge to evolutionary theory because natural selection is expected to favour selfish behaviour that maximises an individual’s reproductive success. The banded mongoose population at Mweya provides an opportunity to answer questions about the evolution of cooperation and the resolution of conflict in wild mammals.”

*One Mongoose (singular), several Mongooses (plural).

Have you taken part in the Mongooses Experience?