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How can tourism develop Uganda? Podcast interview

How can tourism help Uganda achieve a middle-class economy? ON Uganda podcast interview

Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know how much conservation, Uganda travel and digital marketing rock my boat so I was honoured when podcast host Aggie Patricia Turwomwe invited me to chat about these subjects and more. The interview gave me a chance to mention some of my favourite organisations: Conservation Through Public Health, Uganda Wildlife Authority and the brilliant free hospitality and tourism training app from the Ukarimu Academy. Oh yes, and my favourite new glitzy Kampala café, Cafesserie Arena Mall!

“Word-of-mouth has morphed into Digital Marketing” podcast interview with Charlotte Beauvoisin

ON Uganda Podcast – UG’s investment podcast – is dedicated 100% to demystify paradigms through its three segments; On Reports, On Sectors, and On Marketing with an aim to become a tool to help Ugandans achieve and thrive in a booming “MIDDLE-CLASS ECONOMY.” Listen along to understand what fuels the wheels of our economy!

Charlotte ‘Nagawa’ Beauvoisin is a writer and trainer that delivers agile and scalable experiences with digital across East Africa. Nagawa writes the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu and has contributed to the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, Lonely Planet, Fodor’s Travel, The Daily Telegraph and Horizon Guides.

In this 36 minute podcast interview, recorded in December 2021 in Kampala, Charlotte takes us through:

PODCAST DISCLAIMER from ON Uganda. The views and opinions expressed in the episode are those of the guests. They do not represent or reflect the official position of the ON Uganda Podcast, so we do not take responsibility for any ideas expressed by guest during the Podcast. You are smart enough, take out what works for you.

Listen to this episode on Google Podcasts / Anchor / Apple

Do you enjoy listening to podcasts?
Do you like the English accent? 😆 I’d love to know which podcasts you follow – seriously.

21st century tech to rescue Uganda’s mountain gorillas

Join a mountain gorilla family and contribute to the conservation of this endangered species: launch of My Gorilla Family app and My Gorilla Family Festival, Kampala, Uganda, February 2022.

A pioneering initiative to protect Uganda’s mountain gorilla population has officially been launched, leveraging technology to create sustainable sources of non-trekking revenues to fund conservation.

Download the free My Gorilla Family App from Google Playstore. iOS and web apps will be launched at the end of February 2022


RoundBob and The Naturalist, Ugandan conservation enterprises working with Uganda Wildlife Authority, have launched My Gorilla Family, a subscription-based mobile app that allows users to contribute to saving this endangered species by joining a mountain gorilla family, virtually. This was coupled with the launch of My Gorilla Family Festival, a hybrid event that will see local and international artists performing in Kisoro, south western Uganda in May 2022.

The inaugural My Gorilla Family Festival will take place virtually and in person in Kisoro, south western Uganda in May 2022
The inaugural My Gorilla Family Festival will take place virtually and in person in Kisoro, south western Uganda in May 2022

“Uganda is absolutely ready for an application and a festival like this. It is time for the world to come and see how much more Uganda has to offer.”

Lily Ajarova, Chief Executive Officer, Uganda Tourism Board

For as little as $2 per month, My Gorilla Family subscribers will receive an all-access pass to the Bwindi / Mgahinga Conservation Areas of Uganda, home to more than 50% of the world’s remaining mountain gorillas. Subscribers can virtually trek and follow the gorillas’ daily excursions and family migrations, celebrate gorilla births and the great apes’ birthdays and receive updates from the Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers who protect and know the gorillas best.

My Gorilla Family subscribers can follow as many gorilla families as you choose, knowing that your subscription contributes to protecting these fantastic creatures and building the local communities around the gorillas’ forest habitats

“UWA is mandated to ensure sustainable management of wildlife resources. We are proud to work with our partners to ensure this, but also to educate local communities and people from all over the world about the value of protecting these majestic animals, and keep them for future generations.”

Sam Mwandha, Executive Director, Uganda Wildlife Authority
Adventures of Bwanya the Zoologist – an example of live footage only available via My Gorilla App, Uganda


The app and festival launch, held at Protea Kampala Skyz Hotel, was attended by notable conservationists and tourism industry representatives. Panelists included Lily Ajarova, CEO Uganda Tourism Board, Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, Founder and CEO of Conservation Through Public Health, and Stephen Masaba, Director Tourism & Business Development, Uganda Wildlife Authority.

Fidelis Kanyamunyu is a passionate advocate for conservation of gorillas and neighbouring human communities. It was Fidelis’ idea to create new ways of generating revenue to support mountain gorilla conservation and to give back to local communities.

“As a child, I went hunting in the forest; when the conservation areas were carved out, I grew into a poacher. I am now known as an advocate for conservation and continue to champion community awareness.”

Fidelis Kanyamunyu, reformed poacher, Honorary Wildlife Officer with Uganda Wildlife Authority and Co-Founder of Home of the Gorillas
Involving the local Batwa community adjacent to Mgahinga Gorilla and Bwindi Impenetrable Forests, Uganda
Involving the local Batwa community adjacent to Mgahinga Gorilla and Bwindi Impenetrable Forests, Uganda


Home of the Gorillas Initiative, in partnership with Uganda Wildlife Authority, seeks to commercialise activities that generate alternative ways of funding conservation. This is done by leveraging technology that enables the global community to engage with the gorillas remotely.

“It is important to note the investment opportunities presented by conservation.”

Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, a leading scientist and conservationist at the forefront of gorilla conservation efforts in East Africa, emphasised the importance of community inclusion
Uganda’s “Home of the Gorillas” conservation initiative leverages technology to create new ways of financing mountain gorilla conservation

“In addition to the subscription-based application My Gorilla Family, the Home of the Gorillas initiative will launch the first conservation limited NFT collection linked to the ±200 habituated individual mountain gorillas in the wild.”

David Gonahasa, Co-Founder of Home of the Gorillas, further explained the importance of this initiative.
My Gorilla Family Festival logo. Kisoro May 2022
The inaugural My Gorilla Family Festival will take place in May 2022

“We all need to be conservationists, regardless of our background or physical location. By leveraging technology, we are making more people aware of this natural capital we are blessed with, resulting in more mountain gorilla ambassadors globally.”

Terence Chambati, Co-Founder and Chief Operating Officer, Home of the Gorillas

Download My Gorilla Family on the Google PlayStore. iOS and web application versions will be available end of February 2022.

Follow @mygorillafamily on Twitter and check out the website www.gorilla.family

Have you downloaded Uganda’s My Gorilla Family app yet? I’d love to know what you think of it!



The world’s BIGGEST rolex wins Guinness World Record!

“I made the world’s biggest rolex” – Raymond Kahuma is putting Uganda on the world map (in his words).

News does not get any more exciting than this!

Drumroll…

The biggest – world record-breaking – congratulations to Raymond Kahuma who has landed a Guinness World Record for Uganda by making the world’s biggest rolex! According to his certificate, the mammoth snack weighed in at a phenomenal 204.6 kg (or 451 pounds!)

Just how many eggs do you think were needed to make it?!

While others may strive to win medals at the Olympics or reward themselves with endless university degrees, Raymond has done something far more worthy: he has (in his words) “helped put Uganda on the world map” and boy is he entertaining us too!

The world's largest rolex is wrapped in clingfilm.
The world’s largest rolex is wrapped in clingfilm, a key part of the rolex-making process

Explore Uganda through your tastebuds!

For the uninitiated, a rolex is an omelette rolled in a chapati. (Rolled eggs, get it?) It’s a staple of students and party animals countrywide. (You can’t beat eating a fresh rolex at three in the morning on the way home from a nightclub, which we are now able to do again in Uganda after almost two years of bar closures!)

According to the rules set by Guinness World Records, the rolex would need to weigh at least 200 kg. With a single rolex weighing 100g, that equated to 200 rolex! However, that would be too easy: the final item had to be a scaled-up version of the actual food. (Until this record from Uganda, the world’s biggest rolex measured three metres in diameter and weighed 149 kg).

Kahuma’s first attempt at making a record-breaking rolex cost him $3000 and took a team of 15 people four weeks – to ultimately fail. On that first attempt, the chapati got burned before they had a chance to make the full rolex. Kahuma explains how he had given up on college and how making this humongous Rolex “had become my life’s work. Giving up was not an option.”

Watch Raymond Kahuma’s record-breaking feat “I made the world’s biggest rolex” made in Kampala.

The video is HILARIOUS (just forgive the occasional swearword…) Honestly, the world’s biggest rolex video is the best thing I have watched in a long time. I felt a little emotional by the end of it!

“Uganda’s Guinness World Record for the world’s biggest rolex is a testament to perseverance and dedication.”

Raymond Kahuma

Ingredients for a world record-breaking 200kg+ Ugandan rolex!

  • 72 kg flour
  • 90 kg vegetables
  • 1200 eggs
  • 40 kg water
  • 40 kg cooking oil
  • 14 hours and 36 seconds
  • Four attempts
  • 60 participants

Proudly Ugandan! Congratulations to the record-breaking team behind the World's Biggest Rolex!
Proudly Ugandan! Congratulations to the record-breaking team behind the World’s Biggest Rolex! #uniquelyours

Originally the go-to food for students, posh versions of Rolex now include chicken, bacon, cheese and a variety of ingredients. At Bujagali in Jinja, you can even order a sweet rolex filled with chocolate and fruit! Back on the streets – arguably still the best place to order your chapati – a rolex stall is one of the quickest and easiest way to set up a new business. You have to hand it to Ugandans for their entrepreneurial spirit!

The humble rolex is a staple on Diary of a Muzungu’s menu. 😋 It even has its own blog “The rolex: celebrating Uganda’s uniqueness!”

Do you love eating rolex? Restaurant variety or roadside stall which is your favourite?

What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide [UPDATED]

The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya (only). Your questions answered…

The idea of a single regional East Africa Tourist Visa is to make it easier – and more financially attractive – for tourists to visit the whole region.

You should be able to visit the three countries of Uganda + Rwanda + Kenya on a single visa – or so the theory goes. If you enjoy cross-border travel tips and stories, you might enjoy No hurry in Africa – the bus from Kigali to Kampala and The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya.

In this blog post you will find details about the different East Africa Tourist Visa application processes for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Although the three countries share a tourist visa, the application differs, according to the country where you start your East African travels.

Without an East Africa Tourist Visa, you may spend a minimum of $130 to visit the three countries: Kenya ($50) + Rwanda ($30) + Uganda ($50). These fees are ‘single entry’ only, meaning that a return visit to any of these countries means paying the visa fee again. The East Africa Tourism Visa is commonly available, although a few challenges remain.

“The holder of the East Africa Tourist Visa shall enter from the country that issued the visa and move within the two other countries without applying for another visa or paying for another visa fee.”

Doesn’t that sound good?

East Africa Tourist Visa www.visiteastafrica.org
East Africa Tourist Visa. Enjoy all three countries – Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda – with one tourist visa
  1. Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
  2. How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
  3. How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
  4. Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
  5. Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
  6. Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
  7. How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
  8. What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
  9. Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
  10. Do you have any questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa?

I start by sharing the official information. Scroll further down the page for some practical travel tips. If you have any more visa or travel information to share, please add comments below this article or message me directly I will then update this page.

Cyanika Uganda Rwanda border
East Africa Tourist Visa signpost welcoming you at the Uganda border with Rwanda. That’s my dad! 😍
  • Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?

Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda – with more countries joining in the future.

  • How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?

100 USD for internationals.

The EATV is free of charge to foreign residents / expats (with valid work permits) in the three countries: Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. For these kinds of travellers the EATV is issued in the form of an “interstate pass.”

Foreign residents and citizens of the three countries need to travel with a valid passport or National ID or Student ID and request an Interstate Pass at the border. (NOTE to East Africans: if you don’t have a passport, you may be asked to buy a Temporary Travel Document. In Uganda, this costs 10k UGX and can be bought at the border or at Uganda Immigration in Port Bell, Kampala).

  • How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?

90 days

  • Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?

No. The East Africa Tourist Visa is a multiple entry visa.

According to Carmen Nibigira, Regional Coordinator, East Africa Tourism Platform, the East Africa Tourist Visa entitles the traveller to 90 days uninterrupted travel in and out of the three participating countries.  NOTE: the East Africa Tourist Visa is only multiple entry only within the EATV zone. Once you leave the zone (e.g. go to Tanzania, which is not part of the EATV, even though it is an EAC country), you will need to apply for a new East Africa Tourist Visa.

  • Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?

No. You cannot extend the East Africa Tourist Visa. To get a new EATV, you need to exit the EATV zone and apply for a new one, as detailed below. (June 2018: feedback from several tourists is that you are now able to purchase an East Africa Tourist Visa when already in the zone e.g. on the road border between Uganda and Rwanda. This has not been publicised but seems fairly common practice).

  • Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?

Official line: “Work is prohibited.”

Sample of an East Africa Tourist Visa
Sample of an East Africa Tourist Visa
  • How to apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa

It’s important to note that the process for purchasing the East Africa Tourist Visa differs according to the country you travel to first. October 2022: it is easy to get an East Africa Tourist Visa in all three countries. However: for Uganda and Kenya, you must apply online in advance for all visasa; for Rwanda, apply online in advnace or get visa on arrival.

The system has been computerised (hooray! no more forms to fill in). When you arrive at the airport / border, you will be asked how long you want to stay. You hand over your passport, they print a form with your details and you pay $100. You should get an East Africa Tourist Visa sticker in your passport. This is signed and stamped.

“For any questions, contact the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Kenya, Republic of Rwanda and Republic of Uganda before you travel.”

  • How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Kenya first?

If Kenya is your first point of entry, contact your local Kenyan embassy for details on how to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa before you start your trip. Alternatively, buy your East Africa Tourist Visa upon arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) or Mombasa.

eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa applications. Currently this is for single entry visas and transit visas only (NOT the EATV). (Checked again October 2022).

For further clarification before you travel to Kenya, contact eVISA Customer Care.
General queries: +254 202 222 022, +254 110 922 063, +254 110 922 064.
Payment queries: +254 110 922 062. Email: evisa@immigration.go.ke

The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel. (Note: this is an external site so I can’t confirm all the info is up to date).

  • How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Rwanda first?

Since January 2018, Rwanda issues visas on arrival to all nationals. This includes East Africa Tourist Visas. However, you can also apply online in advance if you prefer.

If Rwanda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, use the Rwanda Online Visa Application System to apply for the Class T12 East Africa Tourist Visa. Under “Type of Visa” select “East Africa Tourist Visa.” Here you will find an online application form and all the guidance necessary to apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa.

The Muzungu’s recommendation: if you have any flexibility in your itinerary, enter the East Africa Tourist Visa zone via Rwanda. They have the simplest application process with the best guidelines.

  • How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Uganda first?

If Uganda is your first point of entry, you can request your East Africa Tourist Visa at your local Ugandan embassy. (Note: this is an external site so I can’t confirm all the info is uptodate). 

October 2022 In theory, you can purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa in cash (US dollars/GBP/Euros) on arrival at Entebbe International Airport, but you may not be allowed to board the plane without your visa approval letter). Therefore, use the Uganda Electronic Visa/Permit Application System to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa. Please read my blog NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online, which I review frequently. (This includes info on Ugandan single entry tourist visas, East Africa Tourist Visas, business visas, transit visas, work permits, dependent’s pass and more).

Screenshot showing documents needed to apply for East Africa Tourist Visa online
Screenshot showing documents needed to apply for East Africa Tourist Visa online

The Muzungu’s recommendation: At Entebbe International Airport, immigration may insist you provide a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, don’t argue with immigration (like I have before, to my cost); they aways have the last word. You are advised to bring an itinerary with you, if you have one, or they may deny you an EATV (and simply issue you with a single entry Uganda tourist visa).

  • What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?

Citizens of Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda can now travel between the three countries with ID cards instead of passports. No visas are needed and there is no charge for the Interstate Pass (a small slip of paper that is issued at the border / airport).

Expatriates with valid work permits can also travel with the ‘Interstate Pass,’ without needing to get a visa. Woop, woop! Make sure you keep the Interstate Pass safe with your passport as you may be asked to return it when you leave the country.

Advice to nationals, East African residents: use National ID or work permit to travel Kenya, Rwanda Uganda
Advice to nationals and East African residents: use your National ID or expatriate pass (work permit) to travel across Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda FREE of charge

In both cases, nationals and expats are simply given an Interstate Pass document when they show their ID/passport and exit one of the three countries. This is free of charge and issued at the border.

East Africa Interstate Pass Uganda Kenya Rwanda
The Interstate Pass is part of the East Africa Tourist Visa and allows visa-free travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda for nationals and expats with work permits

March 2018: I travelled by road to Kenya with a Ugandan friend. She was travelling on her Ugandan ID card. Immigration insisted she purchase a Temporary Travel Document at Busia (cost 10k UGX) even though the East Africa Tourist Visa / Interstate Pass allows nationals to travel on their ID. At Busia, Interpol wanted to interview my friend. They were suspicious of a young Ugandan travelling on her ID card and explained that people traffickers are known to hold the young people’s passports for them at the other end of their journey. On our return bus journey, one vulnerable-looking young woman was intercepted by Interpol. It was clear she was being trafficked. The experience was sobering.

East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda. Visit East Africa
The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda. Visit East Africa
  • Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?

Tanzania

It was announced in 2014 that Tanzania would join the East Africa Tourist Visa but there is no information available online. [Checked again October 2022].

Burundi

Sadly, few people are travelling to Burundi currently because of the political situation. We hope life in Burundi improves quickly and that we can welcome them to the EATV party before too long.

South Sudan

One day, we hope…

DR Congo

In 2022, the Democratic Republic of Congo became the seventh member of the EAC but there is no news about it joining the East Africa Tourist Visa.

  • The East Africa Tourist Visa. What is the situation on the ground?

(What the tour operators may not tell you)

Officially, you could only get the EATV when you first entered the EATV zone, either in advance online or at an embassy / diplomatic mission / on arrival at the airport (Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda). 

These are the four (official) points of entry for the East Africa Tourist Visa but cross-country borders seem to issue the EATV now as well:

  1. Uganda – Entebbe International Airport
  2. Rwanda – Kigali International Airport
  3. Kenya – Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
  4. Kenya – Mombasa, Moi International Airport and the Port of Mombasa.

The fact that you could only get an East Africa Tourist Visa when you first entered the EATV countries was a bit of a drawback for some people who may arrive in one country, without having made firm travel plans. It’s quite common for travellers to arrive without an itinerary. Someone may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, for example, and decide they want to travel to the Kenyan coast next.

Visas issued for specific countries can only be used for that particular country.

East Africa Tourist Visa. Uganda to Rwanda border crossing
Having an East Africa Tourist Visa can save you time crossing from Uganda into Rwanda and Kenya. Pictured here at Gatuna / Katuna, en route from Kampala to Kigali

Notes from friends and family regarding the East Africa Tourist Visa

In its initial form, the EATV was not as flexible as it could be, particularly for backpackers and budget travelers who make up their travel plans as they go. I know people who arrived in Uganda on a single country tourist visa but who then decided to travel within East Africa. My friends’ experience was that when you are travelling by road, the situation was even less clear:

Remember: At Entebbe International Airport, immigration may ask you to provide a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, you are advised to bring one with you, if you have one. Hotel bookings serve the same purpose.

Diary of a Muzungu Uganda Rwanda border Gatuna Bradt Rwanda guidebook
Indispensable: Bradt Rwanda guidebook in hand! Bradt are without doubt the best guidebooks for Rwanda and Uganda (and Ethiopia too). Photo of Charlotte AKA Diary of a Muzungu during construction works at Gatuna, Rwanda border. [October 2022] This same spot is now bling bling!

Do you have any questions on the East Africa Tourist Visa? I update this page frequently.

Do you have any advice to share? If so, please add your comments below or feel free to contact the Muzungu. If you’re looking for more East Africa visa advice, read NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online and Rwanda announces: all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival.

Pandemic people – my best of 2021

From #LockdownDiaries to gratitude! Diary of a Muzungu’s review of 2021

Wasn’t 2021 extraordinary? Isolation has given us all an opportunity to rethink many things – whether we wanted to or not 🤦‍♀️ – and I certainly ended the year in a more positive frame of mind. This would not have been possible without the support and inspiration of so many friends and colleagues. Pandemic People is dedicated to them.

Cheers to the octogenarian! Family reunions post-pandemic
Cheers to the octogenarian! 2021 was the summer of reunions

The biggest shout-out goes to my family who I had not seen for nearly 3 years. When I finally made it back to the UK for my dad’s 80th birthday, I took every occasion to reconnect with family and childhood friends, reminisce, dip into the family photo archives and allow myself to be full-throttle nostalgic! Travel to Red List UK via Spain was a logistical nightmare but a useful exercise to share with would-be travellers.

I do not confine my gratitude to 2021. Many of the people I list below have been with me – virtually at least – since the start of the pandemic. I share my thanks to them individually here, in no particular order:

In 2021, Ugandan athlete Joshua Cheptegai won gold and silver medals at the Olympics in Tokyo. Ugandan social media was buzzing for days after his win and British sports commentator Rob Walker’s words went viral:

“And what unadulterated joy this win will have triggered back home in Uganda – one of the friendliest, most beautiful countries you could ever hope to visit!”

Rob Walker, sports commentator
Joshua Cheptegai wins Uganda’s first gold medal for athletics at the Tokyo Olympics in 2021 and gives millions of Ugandans reason to be proud! Rob Walker’s words were the icing on the cake.

As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know, home is a wooden house at Sunbird Hill, on the edge of Kibale Forest, my green sanctuary during the pandemic. I have endless stories about my incredible life here with Julia and Dillon. Grateful everyday is dedicated to them (and the wild creatures that share my house with me!)

Charlotte and Dillon wear masks
Our first attempt at wearing masks – homemade from kitenge napkins! 😂

When Internet failed me (and my mojo was at an all-time low) aviation expert and fellow travel blogger Prof Wolfgang Thome invited me to publish a series of #LockdownDiaries for his site ATC News (ATC stands for Aviation, Travel and Conservation). Although my morning forest walks frequently felt like the 1993 film Groundhog Day, lockdown gave me the chance to connect with nature on a deeper level.

Charlotte Beauvoisin, Solomon Oleny, Wolfgang Thome, Edgar Batte. Kilimanjaro Airport
Travel writer friends Solomon Oleny, Prof. Wolfgang Thome, Edgar Batte and me, Charlotte Beauvoisin at Kilimanjaro Airport, Tanzania, with Precision Air (pre-pandemic)

Damn has this digital nomad missed traveling! 🤦‍♀️ Solomon Oleny and I both write for Ng’aali, Uganda Airlines magazine.

Uganda Airlines with Charlotte Beauvoisin Diary of a Muzungu
In 2021 I took my first flight with Uganda Airlines to Mombasa. It was a great experience!

When I want to know what’s going on in Kampala, my friend and social barometer Arthur Mwenky Katabalwa is just a tweet or phone call away! (Newspapers can only be bought in Fort Portal, an hour’s drive from home).

Bradt Guides author Philip Briggs lives in Wilderness, South Africa, where they endured some of the toughest lockdown measures. His daily run around the cabbage patch in his garden inspired me to start running again. (Ironically, he was the first person I know to have had COVID-19).

Daniel Quintana, I Like Local and Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu, WTM London 2021
WTM London 2021 gave me a chance to finally meet my virtual colleague Daniel Quintana in person

Daniel Quintana of I Like Local was the first person I spoke to when we finally got broadband Internet (several painful months into lockdown). How different our lives were during the pandemic: he isolating in modern Miami, us in the forest!

With so much on hold, I’ve missed working with my web developer Sam Risbond. I know we’ll be back on track in 2022 😎

As the pandemic hit, Steve Dumba voiced his concern at how I would survive with tourism dead in the water. Dumba has helped me update Diary of a Muzungu and runs E-zone School of Computing in Kampala.

Steve Dumba and I are active members of Kampala’s WordPress developer community
Steve Dumba, Wolfgang and I are members of Kampala’s dynamic WordPress developer community

In 2022 I will dedicate more time to working with Isaac and his team at Neuwelt, a media and technology company (think websites, apps and world-class graphic design). Another support team member I must thank is the ever-patient George Mukalazi of Laz Systems tel +256 702 926323. George is my go-to IT person

I was honoured when Miha Logar invited me to be one of the Gorilla Highlands Experts, a global team of volunteers who are passionate about developing and promoting responsible tourism in the Gorilla Highlands of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.

A few of the Gorilla Highlands Experts team. Diary of a Muzungu is pictured middle left, counting birds in Semliki Wildlife Reserve (and dodging hippos near Ntoroko!)

The Gorilla Highlands Experts’ virtual picnics and group Zoom sessions reconnected me with coffee growers in Kisoro, expert chef Rama Ramadhan Sindayigaya in Rwanda, award-winning photographer Marcus Westberg in Sweden, Jon “The Voice” Lee in California and countless others all over the globe. I can’t tell you how much that connection has meant to me during lockdown. Gorilla Highlands’ latest endeavour is the SEE AFRICA BREATHE AFRICA podcast.

Uganda Safari book author Andrew Roberts. December 2021. Charlotte Beauvoisin Kampala
“Uganda Safari” book author Andrew Roberts. December 2021. Kampala

I was tickled pink when Andrew Roberts asked me to help with a spot of proofreading for his fantastic Uganda Safari book. Andy and I worked together at the Uganda Conservation Foundation. You may know Andy as the co-author of the Bradt Uganda guide.

I was over the moon when Susan Muumbi invited me to write an article for The East African. In 2018, we tracked Rwanda’s gorillas and attended Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony together. Here’s Susan’s story about our big cat safari in Akagera National Park.

Dr Carmen Nibigira, Charlotte, Susan Muumbi. Kigali Serena Hotel, Rwanda
With Susan Muumbi and the brilliant Dr Carmen Nibigira. Pre-pandemic days at Kigali Serena Hotel, Rwanda
Harriet Owalla James is bae! This prolific Kenyan writer is a fantastic travel and tourism promoter. We first connected on social media and met for the first time at Magical Kenya Tourism Expo in 2019. (I’ve missed these expos!) Harriet goes beyond the cover shots to interview key players in the industry. The pandemic has prevented us travelling together but we are hatching a plan to make up for that.

Daily connection with nature has kept me sane (well, almost!) A high point of 2021 was getting back into running. Kudos to Canada’s top fitness trainer 2020 Philip Ndugga for the virtual coaching.

What’s worse than being stuck in lockdown? Being in lockdown when you are a freelancer! Journalist friend Amy Fallon and I compared notes on our double dose of isolation. Best way for us both to get through it? Start running again!

Mombasa Serena Resort, Kenya. Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog
Ah…. the sea! Mombasa Serena Resort, Kenya. Diary of a Muzungu’s first stop after having both Astra Zenecca jabs!

The sea – specifically the Indian Ocean – was the number one thing I hankered after during lockdown and my first international trip was to the 5 star Mombasa Serena Resort, Kenya. The thought that I would see the ocean again made the first few months of 2021 bearable!

While tourism was closed in 2020, I watched how friends in the Kenyan coastal resort of Watamu came together to feed a community that was financially decimated by lockdown. They were some of the first people I had to see after lockdown. Kudos to Jane Spilsbury, Steve Trott, Mike Mwangombe of Watamu Marine Association, Mel and the team at Hemingways Watamu, Lynne Elson and Tushar (and many others) for keeping the community going. In December 2021, KTN News Kenya broadcast a report about the Watamu Marine Association’s work to protect the Indian Ocean’s wildlife and beaches. This circular economy project: creates jobs to collect plastic waste, upcycles old plastic to make cool products, cleans the ocean to protect wildlife and keeps beaches clean to welcome tourists!

“Saving marine life: Estimated 8 million tonnes of plastics enters the oceans” a Watamu Marine Association initiative

One of the upsides of travelling on your own is having quality time to connect with new people. In Kilifi (north of Mombasa), rafiki Thomas Mbashu of Tripesa and I discussed Kilifi’s tourism attractions over fish, prawns and oysters at Nautilus Restaurant – a delectable treat after all those months in the village eating posho and beans!

Kilifi sunset. dhow cruise with Distant Relatives Backpackers. Kenya
Kilifi sunset dhow cruise with Captain Issa, organised by Distant Relatives Backpackers

A week at Distant Relatives renewed my desire to be a digital nomad… If you are looking for a cool place to hang out, party and enjoy superb live music and DJs, at extremely affordable prices, look no further than Distant Relatives Backpackers in Kilifi, midway between Mombasa and Watamu. Far more than just a backpacker hostel, DR is one of the most innovative, well-run places to stay on Kenya’s coast. Distant Relatives Backpackers Instagram page is 🔥!

While most of us tourism folk languished in the doldrums, Albert Ntambiko showed us how to turn a business around during the pandemic. What do you do if your café isn’t allowed sit-in customers? You reinvent yourself as a takeaway business! Coffee at Last is in Makindye, Kampala.

Kikorongo Lodge, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda. Charlotte and Moreen, Diary of a Muzungu
Breakfast at Kikorongo Lodge with Mungu, overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda

I have missed the lovely Moreen Mungu during the pandemic. Our trip with the Kasese Tourism Investment Forum was a highlight of my year. In Kasese, I was honoured to speak alongside David Gonahasa, the brains behind Tripesa and Home of the Gorillas Initiative that “seeks to increase global awareness of Mountain Gorillas by leveraging technology to generate non-trekking revenues towards gorilla conservation.”

Ian Redmond OBE and Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu 2021
It was great to chat about conservation with Ian Redmond OBE, chairman of The Gorilla Organization and leading great ape expert

I could listen to Ian Redmond for hours: he is a master at explaining complex ideas in non-techy language (for us non-scientists!) For example, did you know that the ‘ecosystem services’ offered by a single forest elephant are valued at 1.7 million USD? This recognises elephants’ value in carbon sequestration (preventing the release of carbon and thus reducing climate change). This staggering amount of money is in addition to elephants’ value to the tourism economy. Ian is co-founder of Rebalance Earth a social impact company that proposes using block chain technology to offset carbon emissions: win:wins for elephants, forests, local inhabitants near National Parks, the climate, EVERYONE!

In 2021, Ian was part of the team that launched Ecoflix “the first not-for-profit global streaming platform dedicated to saving animals and the planet.” Do check it out!

Dr Celestine Katongole in traditional Baganda attire at Kasubi Tombs, Kampala, Uganda

Every interaction with Dr Celestine Katongole is a learning experience. Celestine masterminded Uganda Tourism Board’s tourism recovery plan and the award-winning Entanda Tours (traditional hunting experience) near Mityana. His latest project is Work & Rise a company that “connects people who have jobs to those looking for the jobs.”

Jean Byamugisha preparing to hike Mount Elgon, Uganda, accompanied by porters and Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers
Jean Byamugisha preparing to hike Mount Elgon, Uganda, accompanied by porters and Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers

Sleeping in a tent up a mountain is not for the faint-hearted, especially when it’s your first time. I was intrigued to know why Jean Byamugisha CEO of the Uganda Hotel Owners Association, chose to swap her self-confessed ‘boujee’ lifestyle for walking boots and a tent. In Out of my element Jean shared her personal account of climbing Mount Elgon. I really felt her pain! (And her determination).

Grade 5 white water rafting in Jinja, Uganda pre-pandemic days. Peter Fabricius (left), Beewol and Truth.
Beewol’s “A wet and wild escapade” is the funniest read this side of the River Nile

The CBI project to train tour operators in digital marketing involved Peter Fabricius and I writing a syllabus and developing training materials. Revisiting old content in the context of the pandemic brought some illuminating discussions and a new hybrid approach: in-person group discussions, live remote presentations from Peter’s home office in Cape Town and virtual breakout rooms on Zoom. Working with Peter is like having my own personal coach – I can’t think of a better way to get back to full-time work!

Theo Vos is the driving force behind Kara-Tunga Tours and the #DiscoverKaramoja brand. He hosted us at Kara-Tunga Safari Camp, Moroto and shared his experiences managing one of Uganda travel’s best YouTube channels

Finally – after so many years daydreaming – I made it to Karamoja, where Theo told me all about their plans for the Warrior Nomad Trail and the Tour of Karamoja Uganda’s ultimate wilderness bicycle tradition, taking place in April 2022. “Expect a physical and mental challenge, rich cultural encounters, dramatic scenery and Uganda’s finest wildlife.” The Warrior Nomad Trail takes you 6 completely unique days / 6 stages through Uganda’s final frontier on the extreme edges of the East African Rift. The final days are celebrated in the award-winning Kidepo Valley National Park.

Digital marketing training with the Karamoja Tourism Academy - an EyeOpenerWorks project - Moroto, northeastern Uganda
Digital marketing training with the Karamoja Tourism Academy – an EyeOpenerWorks project – Moroto, northeastern Uganda

I’ve loved being a small part of implementing the EyeOpenerWorks’ vision for tourism and hospitality. I look forward to working with Martijn, Lex, Laiqah and the team again soon.

It was a pleasure to spend two days with Sheila Kogo-Malinga at Kisubi Forest Cottages off Entebbe Road. Her company Lodge Solutions is a one-stop shop for everything you’ll need if you’re setting up a tourism business in Uganda.

In 2022 I’ll be travelling to Tanzania. Kudos to CEO Sirili Akko for the great work Tanzania Association of Tour Operators TATO are doing promoting Tanzania during the pandemic. Their approach has been radically different to Uganda’s but as long as visitors are travelling to Africa again, I’m happy!

In London, I attended World Travel Market. Africa had little representation but West Africa Tourism Association did the continent proud. Here Daniel of I Like Local introduced me to WATO’s delightful CEO Ola Wright.

Harriet Fowler is a great guide to West African food as our recent lunch at Bight of Benin in Nakasero, Kampala proved! Harriet has her finger on the Kampala’s pulse. After 30 years living in Africa, there is nothing this resourceful lady can’t tell you about expat life

Horizon Guides has grown to be a reputable travel brand. I’m thrilled that Matt Barker asked me to update the Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda, a project we first worked on together in 2016.

Liz Warner is one of the UK founders of Different Kind, and former CEO of Comic Relief, a new online marketplace for “goods that do good.” I got a buzz from recommending a few ideas from Uganda and hope to recommend more as DK evolves.

David Attenborough continues to inspire us all to take better care of our planet. His short New Year message for 2021 gave me hope!
Vanessa Nakate, Ugandan climate change environmentalist, Time Magazine 2021
How inspiring to have a young Ugandan woman at the forefront of the global climate change event COP26 in Glasgow UK! The brilliant Vanessa Nakate was a key spokesperson. Uganda has a formidable environmental activist, why are we not listening to her?

In this short clip, Vanessa Nakate talks about the changing weather patterns in Uganda. “Historically Africa is responsible for just 3% of global emissions yet is suffering some of its worst impacts.”

Closer to home, I am a fan of the work of AFRIYEA and their practical clean-up Fort Portal / River Mpanga campaigns. Let’s support young environmentalists in 2022!

Trends indicate that post-pandemic, more of us will choose to travel sustainably. Silver linings! Kudos to Judy Kepher-Gona and the team at Sustainable Tourism and Travel Agenda in Kenya who are at the forefront of training young people and tourism businesses on how to operate sustainably. I hope to attend their annual summit in 2022. #STAS22

David Bakeine invited me to track the rhinos at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary. I can’t wait to revisit for a longer stay!

We were delighted when our former colleague Lilly Ajarova became CEO of UTB, but can you imagine being head of the Uganda Tourism Board during the pandemic? 🤦‍♀️Not to be deterred, in 2020, Lilly led a team of climbers to the top of Mount Margherita, the highest point in Uganda. Where she leads, others follow. Domestic tourism has come of age during the pandemic!

Lilly Ajarova, CEO Uganda Tourism Board. Hiking Mount Rwenzori Uganda. December 2020. PHOTO UNDP, UTB
Lilly Ajarova, CEO Uganda Tourism Board. Hiking Mount Rwenzori Uganda. December 2020. PHOTO UNDP, UTB

“Approaching Entebbe Airport, bright orange sunshine filled the plane. I felt like the sun was rising over Africa and my new life. I was a little nervous and very excited.

VSO was a passport to an incredible life. I didn’t know anything about Uganda beyond Idi Amin, Lake Victoria and mountain gorillas, but I had a feeling I might stay longer than my two-year placement …”

Charlotte Beauvoisin, woman & home magazine

Voluntary Service Overseas was my ticket to a new life in Uganda (and the first three years of Diary of a Muzungu recount those life-changing experiences). In 2021, I was delighted to help promote VSO’s work in an interview with Woman and Home, the U.K.’s bestselling women’s magazine.

And what does 2022 hold for Diary of a Muzungu?

I don’t know how I would have survived the last two years without everyone featured here. In small ways and big, they’ve helped and inspired me. I’m still processing so much of the last two years. I felt hopelessly lost at certain points but now I’m just letting things settle. Conservation, digital marketing training, travel travel travel and AFRICA will continue to be central to Diary of a Muzungu but quite how that all pans out, I’m still figuring out!

Mwebale nyo – thank you – to everyone who has attended my training workshops and to the tourism businesses that advertise in the Travel Directory. We look forward to brighter times 🙏😎

My last thank you is to everyone who reads Diary of Muzungu! Wishing us all the very best for a successful and happy new year! Keep in touch – sign up to my monthly newsletter.

Uganda for beginners – introduction for new expats [UPDATED]

If you’re planning to move to the Pearl of Africa, you’re bound to fall in love with Ugandans’ infectious enthusiasm for life. In an InterNations survey of expats living in 191 countries, Uganda received the highest marks for friendliness.

Hanging with the kids in Namuwongo slum
Ugandan kids have the best smiles!

Ugandans welcome people of all nationalities; it is an intrinsic part of their culture. The ability to speak English widely offers visitors a huge advantage but it’s the wonderful welcomes and smiles that make this place accessible. One of my first bits of advice from a fellow Brit was: “You’ll get used to Ugandans staring at you. Don’t be intimidated. Just smile and they will return the most dazzling smile.”

It’s true.

Ugandans love talking about Premier league football, politics and how much they drank the night before. Ugandans love to party. Conversely, Ugandans are also avid church (or mosque) goers and very ‘God-fearing.’

Read my most popular blog 50 reasons why I love Uganda.

Introducing Kampala, the capital of Uganda

Set on the edge of Lake Victoria, the world’s second largest freshwater lake, Kampala is named after the Impala, who were once abundant on the city’s historic Seven Hills. These days the city covers more than twenty hills and, to see an Impala, you now have to travel to Lake Mburo National Park, three hours to the west.

Kampala nightlife is legendary across the region and the city is a great place to work, network and socialise. The expat community is welcoming and diverse. There is a great range of clubs, activities and restaurants.

Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. National Theatre, Kampala. Geoff Walker
Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. National Theatre, Kampala. PHOTO Geoff Walker

Kampala is a great base for weekends away on safari, white water rafting or just chilling at a lodge with a wonderful view. Heavy traffic, sometimes potholed roads and bad drivers are some of the downsides to life in Kampala. When it’s hot, tempers fray!

Muzungu how are you?” Life as an expat in Uganda

Expats can’t escape being called “Muzungu,” meaning lost or confused (from the Swahili). Apparently this is how the first white people looked when we first arrived in East Africa. Read the full definition here What is a Muzungu?

“Bazungu” (plural) and white people generally are made to feel welcome, thanks to the good work of the European doctors, teachers and missionaries of the nineteenth century. In Uganda, knowing a white person is perceived to be a good thing, as we arrive with the possible offers of jobs, sponsorship and connections. Expats do get regular requests for work, school fees, the ubiquitous ‘sponsorship’ and occasionally cash. Ugandans are very polite so will ask nicely. It’s okay to say no.

Are muzungus all rich
Are muzungus all rich?

My blog Are muzungus all rich? is one of my most popular reads.

Expat conversations often revolve around complaints about the potholed roads, the naughty traffic policemen, and being overcharged for things on the street. It’s unavoidable: as a Muzungu, you are perceived to have money, even when you feel you are penniless.

What language do you speak in Uganda?

Uganda is home to 56 ethnic groups and their languages. Luganda is the language of the Ganda people of Buganda, mostly resident in Greater Kampala. This is the language you will hear spoken most often in Kampala. The lingua franca of Uganda is English. (Phew – I’m in luck!)

More important than the language you speak is the manner in which you greet people. Greetings are hugely important in building relationships, as is the time to acknowledge people, particularly those of status. Take the time to say “How are you?” even if you are in a hurry.

Children Ongako Gulu
Shaking hands and greetings are very important in Uganda. Children in Ongako sub-county, Gulu, Uganda. PHOTO Jan Sharp

It is quite common to start a meeting with a prayer (so have a couple of lines ready!) Equally, it is common for expat visitors to be asked to make an impromptu speech at a meeting. You may be invited to a number of weddings as the guest of honour!

What’s the weather like in Uganda?

Uganda’s position on the Equator means we benefit from an unbelievably beautiful climate; most days are sunny with blue skies. Even when it does rain, the sun quickly dries up the puddles.

Lake Bunyonyi viewed from Bushara Island
Lake Bunyonyi viewed from Bushara Island

Southern Uganda, and borders of Lake Victoria, are generally wetter, with rains generally spread throughout the year. Here most rain falls from March to June and during the shorter rainy seasons of November and December. The effects of climate change mean seasons have become blurred but you can normally look out of the window and decide whether you need to take an umbrella to work that day. Sunshine is never very far away. Think UK – but the opposite!

Kampala weather destroys roads
This whopping great pothole in the Industrial Area of Kampala has been filled in but most reappear. Terrific rains and poor drainage combine for maximum destructive effect

The country comes to a halt when it rains, and everybody hides inside. After the rain stops, expect mega-traffic jams. Kampala is a busy and often chaotic city especially if you’re rushing to a meeting and get stuck in traffic for an hour. Have a good car radio, always have airtime on your phone and have a newspaper to hand so you don’t feel you’re wasting those precious minutes. Even better, get someone else to drive or work from home. It’s a good idea to live near where you work or agree to work from home sometimes.

Driving in Kampala – not for the nervous is a tongue-in-cheek blog by a fellow expat.

Uber launched in Kampala to the ire of the overpriced taxi drivers and the boda boda (motorbike) drivers. I had always found “private hire” taxis in Kampala too expensive but Uber, Bolt, newcomer Lolo and SafeCar charge a third of what traditional taxi drivers charge. Uber Uganda also has bodas on their app but SafeBoda is by far the best option in 2022. Since the pandemic, many of the drivers on the ride hailing apps are overcharging. In my experience, SafeBoda is the most transparent (and cheapest) way to travel across town. However, a car ride is always going to be the safest transport option.

Boda boda motorbike driver. PHOTO Amy Fallon
Boda boda motorbike driver with Ugandan flag. PHOTO Amy Fallon

Read How to ride a boda boda before you jump on that motorbike!

Healthcare in Uganda. Beware the Travellers’ Health Book! Tropical disease diary

The provision of healthcare can be hit and miss. Local clinics and pharmacies can offer you the best advice on tropical medicine, but beware out of date drugs.

we had a malaria party

Regular health check-ups are advised, particularly for bilharzia (which you may catch in Lake Victoria or the River Nile). Beware of malaria (we don’t all have the same symptoms). Expats usually buy private health insurance which is not particularly expensive.

Read my Uganda travel advice I ignored including How to avoid Malaria and How to avoid Bilharzia.

What’s on in Kampala?

Kampala is developing quickly and there’s always plenty (too much!) to do. Many expats rely on word of mouth recommendations from friends and colleagues. Online information is slowly improving, particularly through Facebook and WhatsApp groups. I promote festivals and other events on my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page. X (Twitter) is a good place to find out what’s on too. Follow me @CharlieBeau.

Kirsty Henderson's Kampala Map
Look out for Kirsty Henderson’s Kampala map. Click on the graphic to see where you can buy it!
www.visitkampala.net launch Kampala Sheraton Hotel
Uber partnered with Kampala City Council Authority (KCCA) to launch the Visit Kampala discount card at the Sheraton Hotel. (NOTE: I think the pandemic killed that initiative!)

There are many ways to meet fellow expats in Kampala. You will quickly find familiar faces. Generally, expats and Ugandans mix easily, but sometimes you just need to talk someone from back home who ‘gets you’ without having to navigate the cultural differences. Kampala has the friendliness of the village, but village life can be a bit oppressive sometimes. Wherever you go, you will bump into people you know – even upcountry!

The overwhelming majority of visitors to Uganda love the place. Many of us extend our contracts; some of us decide to settle here. Mixed race relationships are common and I share some of my experiences here in How to date a Ugandan.

Enjoy the best nightlife in East Africa!

Kampala is a party city. Every bar plays loud music and it’s quite common to dance all night at your local bar. There are no particular bar opening hours; many are open all day and all night – you can always find a drink in Kampala.

Guide to eating fish, Lake Victoria - Diary of a Muzungu
Where to eat fish on Lake Victoria. Ggaba, KSL, Kabaka’s Landing Site, Buganda Kingdom, Mulungu, Kampala, Uganda

Very few Ugandans smoke, and culturally, it is frowned upon. That said, few people would complain if you light up. Although it is illegal to smoke in many places, it is rarely enforced. Virtually all clubs and restaurants are outside, or at least have an outdoor section, so you can usually smoke where you like. Cigarettes are very cheap so expat smokers are very happy here!

Most people will tell you they find Kampala a safe city, however, don’t leave your phone on the table while you’re chatting in a café and be careful of your possessions when you are in busy bars (as in most cities).

Technology in Uganda. Staying in touch with the things and people you care about

Access to the Internet is improving all the time in Uganda so Skyping, WhatsApping and Zooming with friends and family back home is a doddle.

These days, your boda boda driver and your house girl have a mobile phone. They may even have a phone that looks better than yours. (Beware cheap Chinese or Indian phones in Uganda. Many are fake so do shop around carefully).

Free WiFi is common these days but you can’t beat the convenience of your own personal – and fast – connection. MiFis are small pocket-sized devices that let you connect up to ten devices simultaneously.

Not so long ago, banking and payments involved a lot of physical effort. We paid for everything with cash, waited in line at the bank to withdraw money using a chequebook and drove distances to pay bills. On my first trip to a Kampala bank, I watched a customer stuff wads of banknotes into his socks before he left the building! Now, you can pay for almost anything via your phone, by linking your online bank account to one of Uganda’s mobile money systems. It’s so easy! Although European banks have had online banking for a long time, few are linked with mobile phone technology yet. Come to East Africa to see how it works!

I use mobile money to buy internet data and pay bills. Most of us regularly send or receive cash using these systems. (In Kenya, the M-Pesa system is used in almost every shop and bar).

As for computers, Computer Facilities in Kamwokya have saved my bacon more than once! Two laptop hard drives have died on me but it’s very reassuring to know that they can (almost always) recover the data. Computer Facilities develop bespoke network infrastructure solutions for large companies. Their client list is a ‘who’s who’ of the corporate world in UG and across East Africa.

What about old-fashioned snail mail? Does Kampala have a Post Office?

International delivery companies exist but there is also a Post Office on Kampala Road. I learned that a trip to the Post Office is a good indicator of how you’re getting to grips with life in Uganda.

Kampala Road Post Office
Take note of the helpful instructions on the colourful letterboxes outside Kampala Road Post Office

Back in my VSO volunteer days, I was a regular visitor to the Post Office. Read “The cheque’s in the post ….” apparently.

Last but not least, expats share their advice and experiences in Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]  

What’s your advice for living in Kampala? If you’re planning a move to Uganda, what other questions do you have?

Miss Tourism Uganda leads clean-up of Fort Portal

Miss Tourism Uganda to lead 3-day clean-up of Fort Portal 29th October 2021. Environment conservation is a top priority for the reigning Miss Tourism of Uganda as she makes her maiden visit to Tooro land

In this week’s Guest Post, Isaiah Mwesige of AFRIYEA (African Young Environment Activists) invites us to join 3 days of environmental activities in Fort Portal. I’ve been following Isaiah’s work for a little while. His passion and commitment are infectious – let’s do what we can to help suport his excellent environmental campaigns!

Isaiah writes:

The world is faced with adverse effects of global warming and climate change which define a crisis of our time. This is happening more quickly than we feared which has affected most major sectors of the economy not sparing the tourism industry as well. However, we are far from powerless in the face of this global threat. As António Guterre, United Nations Secretary-General pointed out in 2019, “the climate emergency is a race we are losing, but it is a race we can win.”

For Miss Tourism Uganda, majority of her efforts are being put into environmental conservation through activities such as tree planting, plastic collection, proper disposal of waste and awareness campaigns. These are among the key highlights on her agenda for her maiden visit to Fort Portal under the theme “An eco-friendly environment for sustainable tourism and economic growth,” organized by Fort Portal Tourism City Council in collaboration with AFRIYEA, scheduled for 29th October 2021.

Fort Portal has a mostly tropical climate characterized by stable rainfall patterns. However, the effects of climate change have turned the seasons around with the area experiencing shorter or longer rains and harsher dry seasons.

Since the elevation of Fort Portal municipality to a tourism city, different stakeholders have joined efforts to protect and conserve the environment

As we all know, the Rwenzori region in which Fort Portal lies is a hub for most of the tourism sites in Uganda and it is upon this basis that key regionl role players have collectively worked to create sustainable environments which will bring in more investment opportunities through tourism and other sectors.

As everyone gets ready for the homecoming of Queen Suzan Adyeeri, the Uganda Miss Tourism 2021, notable leaders are pledging full support towards the success of this event. These include: the City Mayor, the Resident City Commissioner, the Security Forces and their respective offices. Through good terms and coordination, AFRIYEA has been able to organize Miss Tourism Uganda’s homecoming event. This will be followed by 2 days of environmental conservation thus making it a 3 days event of thorough cleaning of Fort Portal City, tree planting, and proper waste management especially along the banks of River Mpanga.

The prestigious visit of Miss Uganda to Fort Portal is aimed at conserving the environment whilst boosting the tourism potential in Tooro.

Fort Portal city has embarked on her journey of being the cleanest city in Uganda. The campaign is fronted by His Worship Asaba Edson Ruyonga, the Mayor of Fort Portal City. His team are working with stakeholders that include learning institutions (Mountains of the Moon University, FINS Medical University), religious institutions, private companies (Kalya Courts Hotel, Nyaika Hotel, AADI Enterprises), civil society organizations (KRC, RFPJ), non-governmental organizations (JESE, IDP, AFRIYEA, Protos, Enabel) and several other partners both new and old. All of these shall be taking part in the prestigious visit of Miss Uganda to Toro region and you are welcome to join us!

Are you in Fort Portal on 29th October?

We welcome volunteers from all walks of life to plant trees, make a donation, promote the event or help clean the streets and River Mpanga.

Interview with UK’s woman & home magazine

The power of volunteering: an interview about life as a conservation volunteer in Uganda

Once upon a lifetime ago, I left my 9-5 job in London to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Volunteering with VSO (Voluntary Service Overseas) was the passport to an incredible life. It’s a story I’ve been blogging about ever since…

I’m thrilled that an interview about my life in Uganda featured in the UK’s woman & home magazine (October 2021) and Woman Magazine (July 2022).

“Approaching Entebbe Airport, bright orange sunshine filled the plane. I felt like the sun was rising over Africa and my new life. I was a little nervous and very excited.

In London, I had a corporate job and a long-term relationship, but the end of the relationship reignited my dream of visiting Africa.

I didn’t know anything about Uganda beyond Idi Amin, Lake Victoria and mountain gorillas, but I had a feeling I might stay longer than my two-year placement …”

Charlotte Beauvoisin, Woman Magazine | woman & home magazine
Woman Magazine UK July 2022. Charlotte Beauvoisin interview VSO Uganda
Woman Magazine UK July 2022. Charlotte Beauvoisin interview about the life-changing experience of being a VSO in Uganda

Read the woman & home interview with Charlotte in Uganda here.

The warmth here in Uganda – like the people – envelops you in a hug and makes you want to stay forever…

Charlotte Beauvoisin, woman & home magazine, October 2021
No that is not me on the magazine cover! (Eh! you think all bazungu look alike?)
woman&home is on sale in UK shops or online

Do you enjoy reading Interviews? Read more Interviews with Charlotte Beauvoisin here.

A world class welcome at Entebbe Airport

Is it safe to travel to Uganda during COVID-19? Standard Operating Procedures at Entebbe International Airport

Yesterday I flew into Entebbe Airport from Moi International Airport (Mombasa), Kenya with Uganda Airlines. Uganda has pulled out all the stops to make a great first impression of the country. I was very impressed with the efficiency of the whole process!

This is a summary of my experience at around 11pm Sunday 4th July 2021. For the latest COVID-related travel updates from Entebbe Airport, read my Latest news for travellers to Uganda. I am endeavouring to update this blog regularly but it’s difficult to keep track of accurate info. If in doubt, you can always message me directly.

When you arrive at Entebbe Airport, you will be asked to show your passport, Yellow Fever certificate and negative COVID-19 PCR test certificate (an antigen test is not enough). Your temperature is taken automatically by a contactless Ipad-type screen. There were two lines of people for this and we moved very quickly. There were approximately 50 passengers in the arrivals hall when my Uganda Airlines flight from Mombasa landed. It took me around 15 minutes from entering the airport terminal building to exiting immigration. That is record timing!

My bags were already on the carousel by this time so I picked them immediately and then passed everything through the baggage scanner. Before exiting the airport building, three staff members asked where I had flown from and checked my passport. There were large graphics detailing the category one (highest risk) and category two (medium risk) countries and the restrictions that apply to each. Airport staff asked where I had traveled from (at the time of writing, Kenya is classed as a category two country) and whether I had been vaccinated. I showed proof of my two AstraZenecca (Covishield) vaccinations and they gave me a tiny slip of paper that I then handed to another two staff just outside the building. This slip of paper said I was ‘cleared to exit’, meaning I did not need any further PCR tests.

Do you need a PCR test to enter Uganda?

Another traveler arrived from Kenya with me. He said he had not been vaccinated and was told to go and have another PCR test. This he will have to pay $65 for. Entebbe Airport arrange the (complimentary) transport to the test site (a hotel in Entebbe). Travelers say the test process usually takes two to four hours before you can continue with your journey. You can wait for your results at the hotel (there is Wi-Fi, refreshments and charging points) or go and rest at one of the ‘designated hotels.’

Tourist COVID-19 testing at Entebbe International Airport, Uganda. Uganda Tourism Board August 2021

NOTE: it has been proposed that everyone arriving at Entebbe Airport will need to a) have a negative PCR certificate plus B) have a PCR test on arrival, regardless of your vaccination status and where you are traveling from. You will need to check my Latest COVID-related news for Uganda blog to see whether that is going ahead or not.

The rules at Entebbe International Airport are clear and EVERY passenger and staff member followed the protocols (COVID-19 SOPs) throughout. Forget excuses, masks hanging off ears etc, everyone was doing the right thing.

I’m a contributor to Ng’aali, the Uganda Airlines magazine. See how excited I was to see my name in print on my flight from Entebbe in Uganda to Mombasa, Kenya recently. Masks should be worn throughout the journey – except for selfies and gin and tonics 😉

600,000 Ugandans rely directly or indirectly on tourism so we’ve been absolutely devastated by the pandemic. Even this seasoned traveller was dreading flying with all the extra tests, masks and more so it was a huge relief to pass through Entebbe Airport so quickly.

Clearly the world is starved of positive news. Kudos to all the teams at Entebbe who are working to help #restarttourism

As you know, things change daily with travel restrictions and openings everywhere. If you need travel advice you are welcome to contact me directly.

July 28, 2021: I have passed through Entebbe International Airport a number of times in the past two months. You can read about the check-in / Departures experience here.

Diary of a Muzungu’s tips for staying sane during lockdown!

Entebbe Airport open for international tourism but Uganda under lockdown for 42 days

Click here to read President’s Museveni’s address on COVID-19 pandemic in Uganda, June 17th 2021.

Scroll down to read Diary of a Muzungu’s to do list and keep sane – for the next 42 days in #Uganda!

Uganda is in total lockdown (to reduce spread of COVID-19) except for emergency vehicles, tourist vehicles and cargo (deliveries).

Diary of a Muzungu’s tips for staying sane during lockdown

  • go for a walk / run or bike ride EVERY DAY. Get fit, and get those endorphins pumping around your body. You’ll thank me 😎
  • gaze out of the window, often
  • daydream about future travels
  • drink water!
  • look after yourselves
  • watch the birds
  • tend your garden, nurture some houseplants, buy some flowers
  • check on your friends and family regularly, especially those who might be alone…
  • focus on what you CAN do, not what you can’t
  • read
  • listen to audio books. Audible is amazing!
  • don’t touch your eyes / mouth / nose unless you have washed your hands first
  • cook yourself something special
  • dance, baby!
  • ask friends to recommend some new music
  • don’t overdo the booze or weed
  • keep a regular sleep routine
  • focus on the positive – it’s there!
  • wash your hands for 30 seconds with lots of soap
  • change your mask daily. buy masks you can wash and iron. these disposable ones are an environmental nightmare.
  • don’t buy stuff you don’t need. minimise spending.
  • wake up early for the dawn chorus – it will lift your soul!
  • rinse and repeat all of the above, daily
  • spread the love

I have written extensively about #COVID-19 in Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. For Uganda-specific health advice read Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda. I’ve tried my best to keep information current but you’re always welcome to contact the muzungu directly for the latest advice.

See you on the other side! #StaySafeUG

Who were the Polish women who built a church in Uganda?

Discovering the unusual history behind the Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya near Masindi, western Uganda

Uganda consistently ranks highly as a country that cares for and welcomes refugees. This is not a new phenomenon, as a story from the 1940s reveals.

Polish Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi. Montage by Charlotte Beauvoisin
Polish Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi. Montage by Charlotte Beauvoisin

Visitors to Masindi are frequently amazed to learn that the area was once home to a community of Poles who built a church that remains popular with the community to this day. 45 minutes’ drive from Masindi, adjacent to Nyabyeya Forestry College, is Uganda’s only Polish church. If this is unusual, consider also the fact that it was built by refugees, mostly women, who fled Europe during the Second World War. The Polish Church at Nyabyeya is an anomaly, both architecturally and culturally but this unusual story has many positive elements, of sanctuary and childhood rediscovered.

Read their story and scroll down to view my photos of the church as it is today.

Why did Polish refugees come to Uganda?

In the early 1940s, more than 2,000 Polish women, children and elderly men arrived in western Uganda. They were some of over 18,000 Poles in 22 settlements in British colonies across Africa.

Polish Refugee Camps in Africa 1942-1950
Polish Refugee Camps in Africa 1942-1950

This group of Poles had been held in Siberian prisoner of war camps until 1941 when an amnesty allowed them to be freed. Polish men of fighting age joined General Anders’ army. With war raging across Europe, those who couldn’t join the army were offered shelter in one of Britain’s overseas territories. Over 110,000 people – the army and civilians – made their way from the Steppes of Russia to Iraq, Iran, Palestine and India. The Poles destined for Uganda were carried by boat to Mombasa and by rail across Kenya. Polish refugees arrived in Namasagali Port on the River Nile and were ferried onto Lake Kyoga by East African Harbors and Railways water transport up to Masindi Port. From here they boarded vehicles to their new homes (or settlements) near Masindi.

It’s hard to imagine what trials this community went through on their months and years of travel.

From the Steppes to the Savannah. Book Barbara Porajska
From the Steppes to the Savannah. Book Barbara Porajska

The book “From the Steppes to the Savannah” by Barbara Porajska recounts the story of their journey, mostly on foot, from the Russian Steppes and across the Indian Ocean to Mombasa and on to Masindi.

Who built the Polish Church near Masindi?

The Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya was built almost entirely by the women who had left their husbands and other male relatives in Europe, fighting in World War Two.

The church was built between 1943-1945, at the foot of Mount Wanda. Above the church entrance is the Polish coat of arms with the inscription Poloniae semper Fidelis. On the exterior is another inscription (in Polish, English, Latin and Kinyoro) saying: “This church is dedicated to the Blessed Virgin Mary, Queen of the Polish Crown, built by Polish exiles while wandering to the free Fatherland.” The (original) pews are hard carved, as is the towering figure of Jesus, carved from a single tree trunk. Above the altar hangs the icon of Our Lady of Częstochowa. On the church walls are the Stations of the Way of the Cross, with inscriptions in Polish. The church floor is made of hand-made hexagonal bricks. To visit the church, you will need to book in advance as the church receives few visitors and is often locked. (Scroll down for more details).

What was life like in the Polish settlements near Masindi?

Polish refugees shared from https://impressionsofuganda.wordpress.com/2018/01/13/polish-refugees-in-uganda/
Polish refugees via https://impressionsofuganda.wordpress.com/2018/01/13/polish-refugees-in-uganda/

“For children, Africa was a paradise” compared to the hell of Siberia from where they had come. According to the Association of Saint Michael the Archangel:

“The Poles travelled by ship from India to the port of Mombasa in Kenya. Later, they travelled inland to Lake Albert in Uganda, where “a piece of jungle was grubbed up for them, and clay houses covered with ivory grass were gradually built. The floor in the houses was made of clay, instead of windows – wooden shutters, and the light was an oil lamp. The furniture of the houses was also primitive – a bunk with a mosquito net, a table and two benches. Each house was divided into three rooms, for each family there was one room. They cooked in a wood-burning kitchen that was outside the house. There was also an ‘outhouse’ next to it.

The villages were built in the shape of a cross or in the shape of the letter H. In the middle was a well, and four sandy roads spread to the four sides of the world. There was a tap at the mouth of each one, from where people got water. They had lunch every day. Although the rations were not large, no-one was hungry. There were gardens around the houses; there was a lot of fruit around, and despite the ban, they hunted in the jungle for wild pigs from which they made sausages. Resourceful housewives supposedly even made ‘sauerkraut’ by shredding immature pineapples.” (Translation from the Polish by Google Translate).

“In Polish settlements, there were common, secondary, vocational and musical schools, and despite the problems with textbooks, some even seemed to graduate there. Because there were no teachers, the older high school graduates began to teach in public schools after completing the pedagogical course. The estate also had a hospital, two shops, a common room and a library, a bakery, a sewing room, a brickyard, a joiner’s workshop and a shoemaker. There was also a scout team, a theatre group, orchestra and choir. After suffering in Siberia, the Poles wanted the next place of exile to resemble a lost homeland. A part of the village was also an orphanage for children whose loved ones were tortured in Russia, did not manage to cope with the hardships of the road or enlisted in the army.”

Church Choir, Nyabyeya, Masindi. Uganda. Genowefa Franczyk Matkowski
The Church Choir sitting on the steps of the Polish Church at Nyabyeya, Masindi, Uganda

Stanisław Lula, who arrived in Uganda when he was 16 years old, recalls: “Masindi estate is a large village built especially for the reception of Polish refugees … It was established in 1942 and consisted of 8 villages connected with each other. Our village was called ‘Monkey Grove’, because it bordered with bush, where there were a lot of different monkeys.”

The traditional king Omukama Sir Tito Gafabua Winyi IV of Bunyoro paid occasional visits to the camp.

The Polish Church served Poles living here until the closing of the camp in 1948. Many died of tropical diseases. Of the survivors, few made it to Poland. The Polish Church’s cemetery has 51 graves, 44 of which are Polish. An inscription – also in Polish – reads ‘Pray for the Poles who died 1939 – 1947.’

In 2010 the cemetery was renovated by students from the Pedagogical University of Kraków in Poland.

Polish Catholic Church, Nyabyeya, Masindi
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What happened to the Polish community in Uganda and the church after World War II?

World War II ended in 1945. In 1948, the British started to close down the camps. Of 18,000 Poles who reached East Africa from Siberia, only 3,000 returned to Poland. The others left for other countries.

The Polish Catholic Church at Nyabyeya remains a lively church. As the Forestry College 1 km away many of the Poles’ original houses still stand. Everyone is welcome to the Sunday services.

Visitors who are interested in learning about the Polish community’s impact may enjoy hearing that tin containers in local shops were referred to as Polands. If you wanted a portion of beans from the shop, you would ask for a ‘Poland of beans’ (rather than a cup of beans). These were named after the tins that the Polish had, presumably from the days of war rationing. I was interested to learn what this Polish community had left behind in terms of influence? These were not European colonisers. (How did they get on with local people?)

There was a second Polish settlement in Uganda, at Koja in eastern Uganda. This camp was bigger but razed to the ground after the Poles left. Masindi is therefore the main base in Uganda for Poles wishing to retrace their ancestors.

Why visit the Polish Church?

  • Discover WWII history and its impact on East Africa
  • A destination for Poles wishing to learn about their ancestors
  • An active connection with Poland
  • A place to admire Polish Catholic art and iconography
  • An active church

How to find Masindi’s Polish Church

The church is 45 minutes’ drive from Masindi and just five minutes from the Royal Mile, Budongo Forest. It’s not signposted and the route takes you along winding dusty tracks (but you may just find it using Google Maps). My visit was organised by Sallie and Robert from New Court View Hotel in Masindi, where I stayed for five nights. They will make sure someone is there to open the church and give you a tour.

If you visit the Polish Church, do read the visitors’ book. Many comments are from descendants of the Poles who once lived here.

Further reading

Do you enjoy East African history? Then you’ll love my story about the Uganda Railway and our epic train journey between Nairobi and Mombasa on the Lunatic Express. If you enjoy architecture, read History in your hand – a guide to exploring Kampala, Jinja, Entebbe and Fort Portal using maps and a mobile app.

Out of my element: climbing Mount Elgon

Do you love a physical challenge? In this week’s Guest Post, Jean Byamugisha, CEO of the ‎Uganda Hotel Owners Association swaps her self-confessed boujee lifestyle for walking boots and a tent!

Sleeping in a tent up a mountain – for several days in a row – is not for the faint-hearted, especially when it is your first time camping! Add a rainstorm, heavy walking boots, difficult terrain (and no hot showers for two days) and you start to get a picture of how demanding a hike can be. Jean shares a personal account of the demanding climb of Mount Elgon in eastern Uganda, a hiking adventure that led her on a journey of many personal firsts. Congratulations on this huge endeavour Jean – and thanks for sharing your story!

Going beyond my comfort zone

On Good Friday 2021, Adolfo and I set off on what I deemed to be the craziest holiday I’ve ever taken – conquering the mighty Mount Elgon. I say it was crazy because it was so out of my element. My idea of a holiday is – and has always been – a 5 star hotel, with a 7×7 wide bed and 500 thread count Egyptian cotton bed sheets. A swimming pool and spa don’t hurt either. For all intents and purposes, I am a girl that loves a ‘boujee’ holiday.

Adolfo organised our hiking trip after I lost a bet. He wanted to get me out of my comfort zone and also take a ‘bite’ of his world. As an experienced mountain climber, who has even scaled – what looks impossible to me – Mount Rwenzori and all the Virunga volcanoes, he was very much looking forward to climbing Mount Elgon. For me, on the other hand, it was a different story.

Climbing with experienced climbers has both its advantages and disadvantages: my biggest fear was not being in shape and holding back the team so my first order of business was getting in shape. For the most part, I do some simple exercises and eat clean but to climb Mount Elgon, I had to up the ante; I had to go to the gym. I took on a personal trainer and worked out six days a week, from 5.30 – 8.30 am in preparation for our trip.

We arrived in eastern Uganda late and spent the eve of our hike at the Uganda Wildlife Authority banda accommodation in Kapchorwa on the edge of Mount Elgon National Park. Adolfo – or “Alfie” as I like to call him – had estimated that we could climb Mount Elgon in three days, spending two nights in the bush. However, after discussing the route options with the UWA guides, we were advised to spend an extra night at the top as the distance would be too tough for an inexperienced climber like myself. This, we agreed to. After making all the payments with UWA, we entered Mount Elgon National Park via Kapkwata Gate setting off a bit late (10 am). Our team of seven climbers were me (Jean Byamugisha), “Alfie” Adolfo, two UWA rangers, two porters and a cook.

“When I look at the videos of my Mount Elgon hike now, I can see my state of mind change: when I started the hike, I was full of beans; when I finally came down the mountain … I looked and felt so ratchet!!!”

Jean Byamugisha is all smiles as she sets off on day one of her Mount Elgon hike

Day 1 on Mount Elgon – a shock to the system! Overnight at Pichwa Camp

For a novice, the walk up was fair. Compared to all other routes, our route was by far the most gentle of them all. However, the hike was a shock to my system despite all the work I had done in the gym.

By the time we reached Pichwa Camp, an eight-hour walk later, I had sweated beyond what I ever thought possible. However, I was still strong and felt no aches.

After a quick meal and relaxation, I felt like ‘myself’ once again. I managed to take a hot bathe and eat a heavy dinner. Alfie and I even mastered the strength to walk around the camp and visit some local communities in the evening.

This was the first time I was sleeping in a tent. It was quite comfortable thanks to Adolfo’s advice; he had made sure I came equipped with the right gear. Previously, I had no idea about the different types of sleeping bag, mattresses and waterproof tents that would be invaluable in keeping me warm during the night.

Pichwa Camp was the last place with telephone network; after checking in with home and making sure all our loved ones were ok, we set our phones to airplane mode and braced ourselves for what was to be an excruciating day two.

Day 2 on Mount Elgon – higher and colder at Hunters Cave

We woke up at 6:30 am on day two. The cook and UWA staff had breakfast ready and we set off a few minutes before 8 o’clock since day two was going to be a much longer hike.

Day two was much harder on me than day one. The hike was longer, the climb steeper and the weather hotter. Although I had managed to keep up with the team on day one, by day two I was starting to fall a few minutes behind. The higher we went, the thinner the air got, making the climb more difficult with each step.

On the flip side, the vegetation changed at different altitudes and the views from the top of Mount Elgon were simply breath-taking. Being a small team, we had the whole mountain to ourselves; this made it even more special and – dare I say – romantic. Adolfo took on the difficult task of documenting the entire trip. For a girl who loves selfies and pictures, this was amazing (not so much for Adolfo who had to keep at it for the whole trip!)

Mount Elgon National Park hike. Jean Byamugisha.
Mount Elgon National Park hike. Jean Byamugisha.

“While the gym tests your fitness levels, the hike up a mountain tests your endurance levels and many times this is beyond anything the gym can prepare you for.”

Jean Byamugisha

Day two really knocked my body off balance. We arrived at our second stop, Hunters Cave, 12 hours after leaving Pichwa Camp. I was exhausted but – thanks again to the gym sessions – I didn’t have any aches or muscle pulls of any kind.

Hunters Cave was a completely different experience from Pichwa Camp. We were completely in the bush: no bathroom facility, no kitchen and no rooms. Worse yet, it was a much higher altitude and a lot colder than the previous nights. It felt like negative degrees centigrade at this point. For a ‘boujee’ girl like myself this was a complete nightmare. I had to use the bush for all private activities like taking a shower – and worse – going to the toilet. Most shockingly, I enjoyed this experience, mainly because Adolfo made it fun. Actually, without him, I’d never have dreamed of taking on such a challenge in the first place. He carried his favourite speaker and always played music in the camp which cheered everyone and made us forget about the tough hours we had spent walking up the mountain.

Jean Byamugisha. Mount Elgon hike Uganda
Jean Byamugisha. Mount Elgon hike Uganda

We had a lovely dinner of local chicken and rice at Hunters Cave; this was a very welcome delicacy at this point. Taking on such a humongous challenge requires a lot of energy which means that one needs to eat a lot of food. This was a struggle for me who is used to only eating one solid meal a day. Adolfo had articulated the importance of eating a lot on this trip but it’s not something I took seriously; I soon paid for my stubbornness.

Adolfo pitched our tent while I sat with the rest of the guys near the fire as they made dinner. The weather was extremely cold at this altitude and it rained a lot during the course of the night. Once again, it was agreed that we would leave the camp by 8 am as day three was going to be a longer day. I literally passed out when my head hit the sleeping bag. My body was beginning to show signs of fatigue and dehydration.

Day 3 on Mount Elgon – altitude sickness at Mudde Camp

We woke up again early on day three. I still had no aches at this point and felt fit enough to continue the climb, only wishing I had a few more hours of sleep. Waking up in the mornings is hard for me and ordinarily, I am a late riser. This was worsened by sleeping in the bush and being dead tired after walking over 12 hours each day.

“I started off our third day on Mount Elgon feeling like I was running on empty. I felt weak, fatigued and sleep deprived. This was the point at which I started wondering… what in the world made me crazy enough to take on a challenge like this?”

My pace fell several minutes behind the team and I felt extremely weak. I suffered from altitude sickness and at one point I felt like I was about to faint. Adolfo had warned me about not eating enough and this was the day his warning came to pass. The team organised a few breaks where we stopped to eat some pineapples for energy. Adolfo had also packed some high sugar sweets to give one energy in such instances. These helped but day three still felt like a bad dream.

Beyond the physical effort of climbing Mount Elgon, it was an incredible experience to take in Elgon’s beautiful caldera, which I came to know as the second largest caldera in the world. It was also amazing to see the stunning vegetation at this altitude; it looked like something out of an alien movie.

At the lunch stop, I managed to take in enough food to give me the energy needed to complete this leg of the hike. Day three was by far the toughest part of the Elgon hike up to this point. It was made worse by torrential rain which we had no choice but walk through to make sure we reached the next camp before nightfall.

The last night before we started our descent was by far the toughest of the entire hiking trip. Once again, I was lucky not to have any body or leg aches but at this point my body was beaten to a pulp with fatigue. Having almost fainted the day before, I was weak and completely worn out. I dreamt of taking a long hot shower and sleeping in a warm comfy bed. This was also one of the coldest nights of the trip. Despite all this however, I was excited that this was the last night on the mountain.

For the most part, climbing Mt Elgon was fun and – other than the fatigue of walking 12 hours a day – my body was strong.

Day 4 on Mount Elgon – my biggest fear becomes a reality

The last day of the hike was filled with so much hope and excitement. I was excited to finally be returning to civilisation but, most importantly, I was excited that I would count hiking Mount Elgon as one of my greatest achievements. This experience was definitely one for my books. However, I didn’t take into account what an overwhelming feat it was going to be to climb down the mountain. I was informed that it usually takes 8 hours to get to the bottom (and I thought maybe I would do it in 6 hours). This was not to be.

We set off after a sumptuous breakfast of the Uganda delicacy, rolex. I had learned my lesson from the previous day and started day four with a pretty heavy breakfast. It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining and Adolfo and I even signed our names on the camp door before we left. After taking the obligatory final picture with the rest of the team, off I went, literally hopping down the mountain.

The guides did warn me that climbing down Mount Elgon was in many cases more challenging than actually walking up but I didn’t believe them; it seemed a lot easier to start with, until my boots started hurting my toes. Mountain climbing boots are unlike any other kind of ladies shoes (especially high heels, my shoe of choice for most of my daily chores). Mountain boots are tougher and heavier, and can make your feet more sore when it rains. The weather on the mountain changes from hour to hour. Very soon, the warm bright sun gave way to a dark cloud that turned into heavy rain. This made the descent almost impossible and a lot slower than I had tuned my mind to tolerate. I fell hours behind the rest of the team, especially when my boots started squeezing my toes as I tried to prevent myself from falling in the mud.

My biggest fear became a reality: I was holding the team back. Adolfo would wait for me at different stops but it soon became clear that I needed to descend at my own pace because my legs could not carry me as fast as the rest of team. If I tried to keep up with them, I’d hurt myself even more. The worst was yet to come: due to the pressure of the constant downward incline, I hurt one of my knees. The pain was excruciating. My guide, Justin, sympathised with me and remained by my side the whole way down. Adolfo kept encouraging me; for him I made sure I powered through without complaining because I could see everyone doing their best to make it easy on me. It took almost 12 hours of a very slow, very painful slope to reach the team (who waited almost two hours for me to reach them at the rendez-vous spot).

Lessons learned from my first Ugandan hiking adventure

Jean Byamugisha. Mount Elgon mountain hike Uganda
Still smiling! Jean Byamugisha takes on Mount Elgon, eastern Uganda

Climbing Mount Elgon was by far one of the best and most exciting holidays of my life. It took me out of my comfort zone and made me realise I am a lot stronger than I ever gave myself credit for. Crazy as it felt, I’m sure I’d do it again… although not for at least the next 6 months!

“One of my biggest regrets is not making it to the peak of Wagagai. We were just four hours away from the summit but were advised that for safety reasons, we should start to descend since we had a 12-hour hike ahead of us. This was the right decision because it ended up being a very exhausting day.”

Tips for climbing Mount Elgon

Through my experience hiking Mount Elgon, I learned some lessons that I feel every new climber should consider before attempting such an activity:

1. Climb with someone you love and care about (better if they have experience hiking mountains). The only person I could ever have done this with is Alfie. Enough said on this one 😊

2. Get in shape before attempting to go hiking. The mountain tests every muscle in your body. Even if I had gone to the gym for almost a month to prepare, I was not ready for how hard it was at times. However, my muscles were very grateful for my weeks of training and it took just a couple of days after I got back to start wearing my beloved heels once again.

3. Invest in the right gear for the mountain. Hiking can be an expensive sport. The right gear is quite pricy but once you are on the mountain you realise that it was worth every penny. Most importantly, ask an experienced climber to guide on the right gear to buy before you make the investment. Alfie went shopping with me and his advice was invaluable.

4. Get the right snacks and food. Biggest lesson learned is that when you go hiking you cannot eat as you normally do. You need high energy foods to get the right calories to take you up – and down – the mountain. Every climber should invest wisely in the right snacks to ensure they successfully complete their climb. Pack enough water because you need more than you originally think while hiking.

5. Most of all, have fun! This is a once in a lifetime experience, not one that’s easy to forget. Choose to make the memories fun. I look back on the videos and pictures we took and they always bring a smile to my face.

The Muzungu adds: I hiked Mt Elgon once and I can feel Jean’s pain! Read my blog “Climbing Mount Elgon – with a girl named Kevin.”

If you enjoy reading inspirational stories by Uganda’s tourism heroines, read Lilly Ajarova’s account of “The euphoric Rwenzori Mountains.”