How to make international calls from Uganda [UPDATED]
In this blog post I share my personal tips on Ugandan mobile phone and internet providers, where to find free WiFi, SIM card registration and how to send money using mobile phone apps.
Making an international phone call from Uganda can be pretty straightforward. It can also be a right pain in the kabina (bottom).
When I first arrived in Uganda as a volunteer, I very rarely called home. For some reason outbound phone calls from the UK to Uganda were easier. Skype video calls just didn’t work.
Making a Skype call from Uganda circa 2009
A Skype conversation would go something like this:
Caller: Hi
The muzungu: Hi
Caller: How are you?
The muzungu: I’m fine. How are you?
Caller: I’m sorry, what are you saying? You’re breaking up a bit. Can you say that again?
The muzungu: I can hear you. I’m fine, how are you?
Caller: I can’t really hear you, there’s a bit of an echo on the line, I don’t think I can cope with this.
The muzungu: [Sigh…]
I think to myself: “This conversation is starting the same as the last one, and the one before that. Can we move on and have an actual conversation?”
… Call drops off…
The average conversation lasted for four minutes. I would redial and we would have a two-minute chat. The whole conversation proceeded in two-minute chunks, before one or both of us just gave up.
How to make international calls from Uganda using your mobile phone
Calling directly from your mobile phone in Uganda is far cheaper than it used to be. In fact, sometimes it is cheaper to call than to send a SMS. Mobile phone companies offer call bundles; pre-paid international call bundles are very affordable and can be loaded directly from your Ugandan-registered SIM card. Skype too is better, thanks to improved internet speeds; just don’t expect the video to always work. WhatsApp has transformed connectivity and Ugandans have embraced using Zoom, Google Meet and other communication apps. Rainy weather can affect the quality of the internet (the call quality can also be affected by someone cutting through the internet cable under the sea!)
The best-known providers are Airtel and MTN, and many of us have two phones or dual SIM phones. Other providers include Lyca Mobile, Tangerine, Zuku and Roke Telecom. Note that Africell, Smile, Vodafone and Zain no longer exist and the future of government-owned UTL is unclear (January 2023). It’s very rare to have a home landline phone in Uganda. Airtime can be purchased in tiny amounts and just about anywhere.
How do you pay using your phone if you don’t have a Ugandan bank account?
Mobile money ‘M sente’ has revolutionised airtime and bill payments. Kenya Safaricom led the world in developing M-Pesa, the first solution for sending money and airtime and paying bills via your mobile phone. I rely on mobile money apps to pay my bills. They are robust, reliable, secure and widely accepted. Buy a local SIM card and you can load local currency to buy goods and services and send money to friends, family and colleagues. The two most common providers are MTN and Airtel.
My relationship with MTN
I once spent an afternoon hidden in an airtime vendor’s shack in downtown Kampala, sheltering from an immense thunderstorm. As rain battered the roof, I had an illuminating conversation “Grasshoppers – nsenene: do you eat them or smoke them?”
And then of course there’s “MTN Sunday.” What is that all about? Without fail, every Sunday for several years, I lose contact with everyone. Texts disappear or arrive a day and half later, thus “would you like to meet for Sunday lunch?” has to be organised a day or two in advance. If Sunday is maintenance day, why have I never received a SMS telling me so? (I first wrote this post in 2013 – it was still true in 2018 – and at the end of 2023, I still had issues with my MTN line on Sundays!)
So how does the muzungu call abroad now?
Video Skyping works like a dream now with 4G. My sister prefers FaceTime and mum calls via WhatsApp. I can’t believe how easy it is to call internationally from Kampala now!
How can you access internet on your phone in Uganda?
Ugandan SIM cards can be bought very cheaply everywhere, whether at the exit of Entebbe Airport or at vendor kiosks everywhere. Show your passport to register the SIM card. You can also buy a portable wireless MiFi (some tour operators provide these for guests who want internet accesss while on safari).
You’ll find free WiFi at Entebbe Airport and in most hotels, cafes and restaurants in Kampala and in major towns and popular tourist destinations.
Do you have any tips on how to call internationally from Uganda?
… And if you have other travel tips or advice for expats in Uganda, please comment here or contact the Muzungu. I love hearing from you!
An American asks: should we reconsider travel because of Ebola?
A tourist from the United States asked: “should we reconsider travel to Uganda because of Ebola?” Simple answer? The World Health Organization declared the Ebola outbreak finished after 42 days without any new infections.
The Muzungu writes: I often receive questions from visitors to Uganda. Here’s a copy of an email exchange I had in November 2022 with David in the United States. The Ebola outbreak is completely behind us now but I leave this post here simply for historical purposes.
Subject: Travel enquiry
I wanted to travel to Uganda this December, but the State Department says that because of ebola, we should reconsider travel to Uganda. Additionally, that if we do travel, we should expect flights to be cancelled. Finally, on arrival, we have to be taken to [New York (JFK), Newark (EWR), Atlanta (ATL), Chicago (ORD) or Washington (IAD)] designated airports for more screening before being released.
How is the situation? Have you heard of any flight cancellations from Uganda to the U.S because of ebola?
Thank you. Happy Thanksgiving.
The Muzungu replies:
Good morning David. Thanks for your message.
There is no reason why you should alter your travel plans. It’s most likely that you will go directly from Entebbe Airport to the National Parks and there are no reported cases in any of those areas.
Government information I saw yesterday says that we have had no new cases in 10 days. We have detailed contact tracing in place, based on decades of experience managing disease outbreak. World Health Organization, CDC (Center for Disease Control) and others are part of that process.
Most people are continuing to travel as normal. A few people have cancelled trips and a few people have postponed.
Government advisories are always extremely cautious. We are pretty disturbed by how over the top the US / CDC are on this one. They are based on absolute worst case scenarios. We who live in Uganda feel the situation is under control.
If you have any more questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. I answer questions all the time from potential travelers.
Dear Charlotte
Thank you so much for your detailed and informative response. I couldn’t have asked for anything more. I was really scared after reading from the State Department and the CDC [statement stated October 6 2022, link above]. Last thing you want is to be labelled as an ebola carrier.
If you say it is safe to go from the airport to the national parks, then I will talk to my friends so we can go from there. I hope you don’t mind if I share this email with my group with whom I am meant to travel. I want them to see it for themselves. They were all freaked out!
Thx again for the help Charlotte.
The Muzungu writes:
We’re all yearning to travel again post-pandemic so the last thing anyone wants to think about is Ebola…! Thankfully, the outbreak should soon pass.
It may be too early to celebrate any successes, but overall, I have been briefed that the picture is good. As I indicated to you earlier, Ebola is a contact disease, unlike coronavirus which is airborne, hence much easier to control, despite its devastating nature.
President Yoweri Museveni, November 26 2022
I regularly update several blogs, the most important being Latest news from Entebbe Airport. Safe travels! And don’t hesitate to message me if you need a little reassurance from a Ugandan resident like me.
MASH-tastic! The muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi [UPDATED]
Taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Try MASH! Bus travel tips and visa info.
The brilliant East Africa Tourist Visa and Interstate Pass mean that travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda is easier than ever for nationals and has become easier and cheaper for tourists and expats too. Cue: a lot more travel around the three countries for this Muzungu! I’ve taken the MASH bus between Kampala and Nairobi a few times now, and can recommend it. [NOTE this blog post was updated in February 2023. We tried calling various advertised numbers, but failed to get through].
Overall, the Kampala / Nairobi MASH bus service has been excellent. I hardly felt the dreaded bump, bump, bump of the ‘rumble strips’ and managed to sleep most of the journey. Or shall I say, I fell asleep / woke up / fell asleep / woke up… over and over again.
We liked the idea of having a toilet on the bus. If it had been working, that would have been even better! According to the driver, “it is women’s fault that the toilets do not work.” Hmmm… surely they could have fixed it though?
The MASH system is well organised and departs – on time – from the relative calm of the National Theatre, making it a far less hectic experience than going to downtown Kampala bus parks with all their congestion and pickpockets. In Nairobi, however, the bus departs from the equally crazy River Road. Have your wits about you here, as lots of guys will come running at you trying to sell you a cab fair / give you unwanted directions, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve just woken up! Don’t rush to get off the bus; pace yourself and check you have all your belongings first.
Back outside the National Theatre in Kampala, an hour before the agreed departure time, a lady called us over to a table in front of our bus where she checked our tickets and passports. Next to her, a very friendly guy checked the contents of all our bags. Another three men in bright orange overalls loaded bags and boxes into the bus. I was asked to remove the padlock from my bag, which obviously I did not want to do. I was told that it was necessary for the security check at the border. I removed a couple of valuables that I’d put in my big bag, and just hoped that everything else would be safe. It was.
The MASH bus was clean. The seatbelt worked, as did the single power socket on the wall next to me. I chose to sit in the second class ‘executive’ section, just a few seats from the front. It had a decent amount of legroom and a reclining seat. My friends in the VIP seats, directly behind the driver, had even more legroom, plus they were allowed to have their big bags with them.
Every bus passenger was handed a small packet of biscuits and a packet of sugary ‘juice.’ My experience of cross-border bus journeys in East Africa is to avoid drinking at all costs, as you can never be sure the driver will stop when you need him to! However, on the MASH bus, we had three ‘comfort breaks’ before we arrived in Nairobi. It’s a “short break for a short call” and these guys do not hang around, believe me.
The driver put on some loud music for our uneventful drive to the border.
Entering Kenya later that night, one of the immigration officials growled a demand to see my Yellow Fever certificate. Luckily I had a photograph of it on my phone.
My friend Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey between Kampala and Nairobi. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat! “You snooze, you lose” as she likes to tell me… Lol.
According to Wikipedia, “Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dryness and dustiness of the area, especially between January and March. In the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elmenteita is between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru. The major Nairobi – Nakuru highway (A104 road) runs along the nearby escarpment affording motorists a spectacular vista towards the lake. Today the lake is a protected area due to its birdlife. Elementeita – together with Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria – has been named a heritage site by UNESCO.” (In 2019 I finally went on safari in Lake Elmenteita – I am still thrilled at the large numbers of flamingos I saw that weekend! The horse ride along the lakeshore was spectacular).
Travel tips for taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi
NOTE: I don’t guarantee all info is correct. You should check prices, departure times yourself. This is a personal account based on my own experience.
- MASH buses leave on time.
- The MASH booking office in Kampala is in Dewinton Road opposite the National Theatre.
- In Uganda, you can use MTN mobile money to purchase your ticket. Tel +256 (0)774 082853 is the MTN Mobile Money number registered to Mash Bus Services. I used this myself. I first called the booking office to reserve my seat numbers; confirmed my payment using mobile money; then made a second phone call to check they had seen my payment.
- The MASH booking office in Nairobi is in River Road. Their official number is +254 733 623260. In Kenya, you can also book your bus tickets and reserve your seat online and pay by Safaricom’s M-Pesa. (Paybill number 857988). This worked well too.
- To double check ticket prices and times, check out the MASH East Africa website or visit one of their offices.
- Please don’t message me – I don’t work for Mash, I’m just a customer like you 😎
Bus departure times from Kampala and Nairobi
(Please get there early: we’ve called several times to check timings and prices and the info given is inconsistent). Ticket classes are: VIP, business class and ordinary (availability depends on whether you get MASH POA or MASH COOL).
Kampala to Nairobi
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the National Theatre.
Nairobi to Kampala
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the MASH office in River Road.
MASH Cool is the air-conditioned bus. (MASH POA can get a bit sweaty!) I liked MASH Cool but you will need a blanket (or shuka) if you take the overnight bus. The MASH Cool bus has curtains too.
- Make sure you have your Yellow Fever and COVID-19 vaccination certificates (or a negative PCR test).
- Keep photographs of your passport and other important travel documents (bus ticket and Yellow Fever Certificate) on your phone.
- Although the bus does have power sockets, in my experience, they don’t always work. Take a spare battery pack for long journeys so you can access digital documents any time.
- Nationals of Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya just have to show a passport or national ID and are given a temporary Interstate Pass. Ugandans who do not have passports are advised to get a temporary travel document. Cost 10k UGX. If you’re in Kampala, you can get one issued at Port Bell (or you can buy it at the border).
- Expats with work permits can get an Interstate Pass at the border as well. There is no form to fill in (just the standard arrivals form) and there is no cost. Yay!
- If you need a visa, you are supposed to apply online in advance, whether it’s for a single country visa or an East Africa Tourist Visa. However, all visas appear to be available in person at a border (except EATV, you’ll need to read my blog about that one).
Check out the blogs I’ve written about tourist visas
- Uganda – NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online
- East Africa – What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide
- Rwanda – Rwanda announces all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival
- The set-up at the Kenya / Uganda border has changed and you now leave one country / enter another within the same building. Previously, you had to get your exit visa from one country and then walk across the border before getting your entry visa into the next country. I found the new system confusing and had apparently entered Kenya illegally! Apparently I did not have one of the required passport stamps, even though I had been processed by three different people at immigration.
- The MASH ticket says “Smoking, alcohol, chewing miraa is prohibited. Maximum luggage limit is 15 KG, any extra weight will be charged. Passengers are warned not to take any foodstuff offered by stranger.” In the past there were incidences of bus passengers being drugged and robbed (not on any particular route or with any particular bus company).
- In addition to the Uganda / Kenya route, MASH also operate to major towns across Kenya.
- Dreamline have also been recommended to me.
Have you taken the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Which operator do you recommend?
Kampala’s top hotels & restaurants for Christmas & New Year! [UPDATED 2022]
Where are you celebrating Christmas Day? And which is Kampala’s best hotel for New Year?
DECEMBER 2022: If you’re celebrating Christmas in Kampala, the restaurants at the capital’s top hotels have a long list of festivities planned for you. Below is the muzungu’s choice of Kampala’s leading hotels and restaurants, all updated for 2022.
Scroll down to whet your appetite for festivities happening in Kampala on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.
Kampala has something for every taste: cocktails, brunch, lunch, high tea and barbecues; buffets, traditional Christmas dinners, gala dinners and Christmas-themed menus, children’s activities, carol concerts, pool parties and fireworks. Hotels have special seasonal accommodation offers. Why not relax somewhere snazzy for a few days? Pamper yourself and enjoy a spa treatment.
Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉
Christmas and New Year at the Kampala Serena Hotel
Below are a few highlights of the Kampala Serena Hotel’s festive season. Click on the images for their 2022 programme or download the whole programme here.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Lake Victoria Serena Hotel
Click here for the Lake Victoria Serena’s Xmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offers.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel
Scroll down for a few highlights of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s holiday programme.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at Speke Resort Munyonyo, Kampala
Speke Resort has a comprehensive Xmas and New Year programme, with activities planned throughout the holidays. The Christmas Day programme includes live band, kid’s play area and Santa! Christmas Lunch Buffet includes a complimentary glass of bubbly.
Splash out at Le Chateau Brasserie Belge! Christmas Eve and Christmas Buffet 2022
Christmas Day at Mestil Hotel, Nsambya, Kampala
The Festive Season is a joyous time of Celebration at Mestil Hotel & Residences. Enjoy special moments as you celebrate with friends and family.
Mestil Hotel & Residences, Kampala
Protea Hotels by Marriott, Kampala
Kampala has two Protea Hotels: the first one is on Acacia Avenue; the second “Skyz” is in Naguru. Both hotels have a number of special festive meals planned for Xmas 2022 and the New Year. The Chapter Two Restaurant at the Protea Marriott Naguru Skyz Hotel has amazing views of Kampala’s skyline – as the name suggests!
Christmas and New Year at Latitude 0° Hotel, Kampala
Scroll down for a few highlights of Latitude 0° Kampala Hotel’s festivities.
Click on the images below to see more Christmas 2022 holiday ideas!
Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉
For Christmas and New Year bookings, please contact the individual hotels and restaurants listed – and do say the muzungu sent you 😉
Go Wild in UG! The Muzungu chats with Wanderlust readers
Wanderlust Travel Magazine: live webinar answering FAQs about Uganda safaris, gorilla vs. chimp tracking, where to see the Shoebill in Uganda, self-drive vs. guided tours…
I had to pinch myself when travel expert Mr Philip Briggs asked whether I’d have time to talk live to readers of the famous Wanderlust Travel Magazine. Well, YES! There’s nothing I like better than waxing lyrical about my favourite subject: travel to Uganda!
Wanderlust Travel Magazine “More than 300 of you tuned into our Uganda event to hear Charlotte Beauvoisin, writer of the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu, speak live from this incredible country alongside other expert speakers and the Uganda Tourism Board. We learned all about Uganda’s incredible wildlife and fascinating culture.
Featured image of leopard in tree. PHOTO by Peter Hogel. Courtesy MJ Safaris Uganda.
Scroll down to watch the – very lively! – recording “to explore the unspoiled and wildlife-filled landscapes of Uganda. During this virtual evening of travel, we will be meeting the experts who will bring to life the huge biodiversity, local culture and space for adventure in this incredible part of the world.”
Where was Charlotte talking from?
“I was talking live from Kyaninga Lodge a high-end lodge near Fort Portal and Kibale Forest in western Uganda (a good base for chimp tracking).”
Can you drive yourself around Uganda or is it easier to hire a driver?
“Self-drive holidays in Uganda are possible but not recommended if you haven’t done an African road trip before. We always recommend having a driver guide. They know every road – and pothole! They will tell you what time you need to leave your lodge for your next activity, maintain your vehicle and generally be a really good addition to your experience of Uganda. Ideally hire a trained guide with expertise in your particular interest e.g. safari, birding, culture, etc. If you do choose to self-drive, don’t drive at night. Very few roads are lit so driving can be dangerous. I frequently take bus trips between Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. Buses are incredibly cheap but they don’t have the best safety reputation. (Some of them have seatbelts but few ever work). Large buses ply city routes. Between towns, you will need to catch a matatu minivan taxi, which are very cramped.”
Can you self-drive in Uganda’s National Parks?
“Yes it’s possible to drive yourself in Uganda’s National Parks but you must stick to the marked tracks. Failure to do so may result in a cash fine or even eviction from the park. If you travel independently, you will need to have a Uganda Wildlife Authority armed ranger escort, at your (small) cost. Choose the right one, and you will have an expert guide to your Uganda safari. Although the idea of doing your own game drive sounds exciting, local people know exactly where the different wildlife hunts and sleeps. (It’s amazing what you may drive past while looking in the other direction!)”
What budget do you recommend per day, excluding air fares, for a Ugandan safari?
“Options can vary wildly according to the standard of accommodation and the number of people in your group. You generally pay a little more for lodges and hotels inside a National Park. Uganda has a range of accommodation from homestays and campsites to mid-range hotels and luxury lodges with spas and butler service. Daily rate would usually include: 4×4 vehicle (often a minibus van) with English-speaking driver and fuel; accommodation and meals; some activities such as game drives and nature walks (the more expensive gorilla / chimp tracking permits are usually charged extra).
Generally speaking, allow a budget of $200 or more / day to cover all of the above. If opting to stay in high-end lodges, daily rates would start at $450 per person. [Prices estimated April 2022]. For best value, travel in a group of four or more.” Looking for a tour operator? Check out my Travel Directory.
How accessible and reliable is medical care for tourists in Uganda?
“The first thing to remember is to buy travel insurance before you travel to Uganda. It’s easy to access basic medical advice and clinics in Uganda but if you take regular medication, do bring a good supply with you. It can be difficult to access certain medicines outside Kampala, however, you will easily find malaria testing and treatment facilities, for example. Malaria prevention is always better than cure. Minimise health risks by taking antimalarials, sleeping under a mosquito net and alerting your guide or tour company if you are feeling unwell. Drink filtered or bottled water (few tourists complain of stomach upsets in Uganda).
For more serious health issues, you would need to get to a town or even Kampala. Medivac evacuation (by helicopter for example) is available but very expensive. Compared to many countries, Uganda has not been badly hit by COVID-19. Read Uganda travel advice I ignored – my advice on various health and safety issues based on my 10+ years living in Uganda.”
How does chimpanzee tracking differ from mountain gorilla tracking?
They’re big and they’re hairy – but other than that these two great apes are radically different. Mountain gorillas are huge but gentle vegetarians. Chimpanzees are nutters!
Mountain gorillas spend most of their day on the ground, sleeping and farting. Chimpanzees can cover a big range up in the trees. (Yes, ok, they also fart a lot!)
Gorilla tracking is amazing because of the rainforest territory and the climb through the mist to find them. Chimp tracking is hilarious – they are so like us. (Or are we like them?)
I love both primate tracking experiences. I can’t say one is better than the other but price is definitely a consideration. In 2022 in Uganda, it costs $700 for a gorilla tracking permit. By comparison, a chimp tracking permit is between $50 to $200, depending which National Park or Forest Reserve you track in. Read the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s conservation fees for tariff for 2022- 2024.
Where is the best place to see giraffe and elephants in Uganda?
“The best place to see (Rothschild’s) giraffe would definitely be Murchison Falls National Park. Smaller populations have been reintroduced to Lake Mburo and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve; you can also see giraffes (and cheetah and a lot more) in Kidepo, in Uganda’s remote north east. Elephant can be easily seen in the popular Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks.”
How easy is it to see the Shoebill bird in Uganda?
“I once saw three Shoebills on the Delta boat ride in Murchison Falls National Park. Their size makes them easy to spot but they are shy and very few in number. Make sure you have an expert guide. If you absolutely have to see the Shoebill – and time or budget are an issue – why not pass by Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe? In addition to the Shoebill, you can see indigenous species such as elephant, lion, white rhino, chimpanzee and serval cats. Another location that is an easy drive from Entebbe is Mabamba Bay. Although the Shoebill can be viewed in other parts of Uganda, the places listed here are Uganda’s most popular Shoebill viewing destinations.”
What is the one experience or one place in Uganda that people should experience?
“Murchison Falls National Park in northern Uganda is the country’s most popular National Park (yet for all that, there are few tourists compared to many of Africa’s tourist areas). The park is named after the dramatic falls where the River Nile narrows from 1/2 a kilometre wide to just seven metres wide and plunges 43 metres. It’s a fantastic sight, seen from below via boat or from above: at the Top of the Falls, you can feel the power of the water in the rocks beneath your feet. I write about it in Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron, Murchison Falls. Murchison is an excellent safari destination, whether for game drives, safari boat rides, birdwatching or chimp tracking in Budongo. The Shoebill is one of Murchison’s 400+ bird species.”
Watch the full recording of the Wanderlust reader event: go wild in Uganda
What did Wanderlust readers have to say about the Go Wild in Uganda webinar event?
Thanks all. Now looking at a trip.
Thanks very much. It’s been a great evening. Great words from great people. Thanks very much to Charlotte and your friends, good job.
Thank you for a wonderful evening. It reminds us of the great time we had in Uganda (and that was without seeing the gorillas as we felt we weren’t fit enough for the trek). It also made us want to go again.
Thank you for a fascinating insight into Uganda. I really enjoyed the event and would love to visit there!
1600km across Uganda on a village bike, but why?
Uganda cycling trail. Interview with Alexander Bongers
Cycling and mountain biking have taken off in Uganda over the last few years – indeed the Uganda Cycling Trail gets a mention in CNN Travel’s Where to travel in 2023: The best destinations to visit! During lockdown, there was a worldwide surge in bike riding too. There is no doubt about it, Uganda is a superb place to cycle! The great weather and endless, marvellous scenery make for a stunning combination.
Alexander ‘Lex’ Bongers is one of Uganda’s passionate Dutch expat cyclists. I was amazed when he told me he was planning to cycle from one corner of the country to another with his colleague Lawrence Kakande. It’s pretty nuts to hear they did this on a local bicycle without gears! Read their story below and keep following Diary of a Muzungu for more brilliant cycling stories.
Diary of a Muzungu: Lex, cycling from Kisoro to Kidepo sure sounds like a big adventure! But it must also have been physically challenging. How is your body feeling now?
Not that bad actually, which surprises me as well! Lawrence hurt his knee on one of the last days, but personally I feel fitter than ever!
Diary of a Muzungu: You are and your friend Lawrence are probably the first people to ever ride this journey, certainly on a village bicycle. How did you ever come up with this crazy plan?
I am the coordinator of Adventure Tourism Uganda, wherein we aim to further develop the adventure tourism sector in Uganda. If there is one kind of tourism that has a lot of untapped potential throughout the country (and has a lot of social, economic and environmental benefits) it’s adventure tourism.
Thies Timmermans of Red Dirt Uganda has developed the Uganda Cycling Trail, a cycling route that links the extreme southwest of the country to Uganda’s extreme northeast. The idea is that these routes can be used by any cyclist. Testing this route on a village bicycle started off as a joke to be honest: we wondered whether it was actually possible to complete it on a village bicycle, so that you don’t need a fancy bicycle with a hundred gears. To prepare for our trip, we simply bought two steel roadmaster bicycles (the ones you see throughout the countryside). These bicycles have no gears, no suspension and are pretty heavy. They even have a sticker on them that reads “extra heavy.” Despite all that, they ride quite nicely.
Diary of a Muzungu: The fact that I am now able to talk to you, with you having a bright smile on your face, shows that it was possible… You guys made it!
Exactly! I am quite proud that we were able to finish the journey of about 1,600 km in 24 days (with an additional 5 days of rest mid-way). The only motorized vehicle we used between Kisoro and Kidepo was the ferry to the Ssese Islands as well as a stretch between Moroto and Kotido where cycling was currently not advised. But we entered Kenya to compensate for that!
Diary of a Muzungu: What about Uganda’s mountains? Were you able to cycle up Mt Elgon or the Kigezi hills without gears?
Not in the slightest. I don’t think anybody would. But the thing is, you become very humble: you know your limits and just walk. On a previous occasion, I cycled up to Sipi on Mt. Elgon on a mountain bike, and it was quite tough. But on this trip, Lawrence and I just walked and it wasn’t too difficult. Sometimes however, I felt like a Nepalese sherpa, with my bicycle a yak carrying my bags. There was something oddly satisfying about it.
Diary of a Muzungu: So are you saying your marathon trip wasn’t difficult at all?
Oh no, don’t get me wrong, sometimes it was challenging, but generally it was doable!
The last six days were part of the Tour of Karamoja, organized by Kara-Tunga Tours. It was exactly the type of epic final we hoped for.
The longest day comprised a 133 km journey from Lake Turkwel in Kenya to Moroto in Uganda. At only halfway through that day, my bum was causing me so much pain that I felt we would have to amputate the whole of my lower body. To add further misery, we cycled through a whole day of thunderstorms and pouring rain between Kaabong and Kidepo. I even fell into a big pool of muddy water. In an attempt to keep my phone dry, I had wrapped it in a plastic cavera bag. Sadly, my “phone-in-cavera” died in that muddy pool. But when we finally reached Nakaba gate in Kidepo Valley National Park, the sky cleared and we had a incredible ride through Kidepo; everyone who visits Kidepo says it’s Uganda’s most beautiful park.
Diary of a Muzungu: Any other highlights of your trip?
Lake Mutanda and Lake Bunyonyi in southwestern Uganda are of course very beautiful, and their shores are great for cycling and so is the far side of Murchison Bay, just opposite Gaba in Kampala.
Mt Elgon was fantastic as well, particularly a tricky downhill section just beyond Kapchorwa.
A personal highlight was to cycle to Malaba, at the Kenyan border. I lived there for half a year in 2014 and I hadn’t told anyone I would pass by on a village bike. The fact that I could tell my friends that no, I wasn’t cycling from nearby Tororo but from Kisoro, several hundred kilometres away, was something I spent weeks looking forward to! My old friends absolutely loved my story (but also had difficulties believing it!) But still, none of these highlights could compete with the sheer adventure and beauty of Karamoja.
Diary of a Muzungu: Did you have a lot of punctures along the way?
No, not at all! The only real modification we made to the bicycle was to make it tubeless. To do this, we removed the tube and replaced it with sealant. This reduced the chances of punctures. Actually, I don’t know how to explain it well, as I do not know anything at all about bike mechanics: I just know how to ride them. I really, really owe everything to Lawrence as without him I would probably still be in Kisoro, trying to figure out how to secure my bag to the bicycle!
Diary of a Muzungu: What are you going to do now? Are you planning to do something similar again soon?
I am not sure yet. I am thinking of cycling to West Nile next year, or participating in the Kyaninga Ride the Rift Race on this very bike, outcompeting all the gravel bikes. (I might also just grow fat and start living on past glories, like those retired football players). Time will tell. But I will definitely keep on spreading the gospel of the Uganda Cycling Trail and promoting cycling in Uganda generally, as it is simply fantastic!
Diary of a Muzungu: And what about your bike?
For now, the bike will get a break. He deserves it…
Uganda tourist visas – apply online before you fly [UPDATED]
All Ugandan tourist visas and work permits are now online. January 2023: apply BEFORE you travel. I get a lot of questions about visa on arrival at Entebbe Airport but we have heard multiple instances of airlines refusing to board passengers who don’t have their visa approval letter. Visa on arrival is no longer available.
DISCLAIMER: I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues, visitors to Uganda and advice from an immigration lawyer. Scroll down for more information and do read all the comments for the latest feedback on the Uganda visa application process.
Since 2020, every traveller has to consider COVID-19 protocols. For what to expect when passing through Uganda’s international airport, read Latest travel news from Entebbe International Airport (updated regularly).
The Ugandan government has set an online electronic visa application system. This is (in theory) mandatory for applying for all Ugandan visas, including: entry permit (work permit), Uganda tourist visa, multiple entry visa, transit visa, East Africa tourist visa, student pass, diplomatic visa, official visa, special pass, Certificate of Residence, dependent’s pass.
Which nationals need to pay for a visa to enter Uganda?
Click here to see the “List of visa exempt nationalities. If your nationality is on the list, you don’t need to apply for a visa to enter in Uganda.
Requests for tourist visas, passes and work permits (E-Visa and E-permits) should now be completed via this link on the official Uganda immigration website.
Under the new application process, applicants for all immigration services such as visas, work permits and passes will be required to apply and pay online, and an electronic notification / authorisation will be sent to the applicant before proceeding to the preferred Entry Point e.g. Entebbe International Airport or the nearest Uganda Mission abroad for the visa to be issued.
If you are travelling to Uganda and applying for a Ugandan visa online, you are advised to:
Apply at least ONE MONTH prior to travel. (However, some applications are approved in hours, others days, some not at all… if you apply too early, your visa approval may even get cancelled and there’s no guarantee you will get your money back).
Be prepared. You need to complete the online application in one sitting. The online application does not allow you to save your information and return to the screen later. Have these ready: a copy of your bio page of your passport, a recent passport photo, Yellow Fever vaccination certificate and COVID-19 vaccination certificate (or negative PCR test results if you’re not vaccinated). You will need to upload these. For more info on the exact documents needed, according to type of visa you require, go to the Uganda immigration web site general information page.
By the way, the photo is US passport photo size (not Canadian, one Diary of a Muzungu reader tells me, which is a larger size).
If you’re applying for a single entry tourits visa, you’ll need to upload:
- Passport bio-data page (with validity of at least 6 months)
- Recent Passport-size Photo
- Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate
- Return Ticket
Only PDF, JPEG, PNG and BMP files are accepted. The files you upload should not be bigger than 250kb (that’s pretty small!) so resize all your docs before you start the application process.
The decision taken on the online application (“yes” or “no” on whether you’re coming to Uganda) will be sent via email. Assuming you get the go-ahead, your visa approval letter will be sent as an email attachment. You’re advised to print this travel authorisation (showing a barcode) and keep this with your travel documents (although it is not mandatory apparently). However, Ugandans do love printed papers so print everything you can, just to avoid unforeseen delays.
The Uganda immigration web site details the fees for applying for Ugandan visas online.
You can pay online for your Uganda tourist visa. Only Mastercard and Visa are accepted online and there is a 3% surcharge for online payment. Currently, the single entry Uganda tourist visa fee is $55: $50 for the visa and $5 admin fee. For the tourist visa, work permit and pass fees, see Uganda Immigration’s fees for applying for Ugandan visas online or the website of Africa Immigration Advisory Services, Kampala a company I recommend.
When you complete the visa application process, it is very important that you make a note of your application number! You may need this in case you have to follow up. Otherwise, click here to retrieve your Uganda visa application ID but some people say this hasn’t always worked
Present the printed barcode at point of entry [read “Entebbe Airport”] together with a valid passport / travel document of “not less than 6 months validity” and you will get your tourist visa.
NOTE: “the travel authorization [approval] letter does not guarantee entry into Uganda. Travelers will be subjected to secondary verification where necessary before personalization,” meaning it is not 100% guarantee you will be issued a visa at the airport / border / Uganda mission (but you probably will, unless you’ve been very naughty indeed).
For answers to Frequently Asked Questions, go to the Uganda immigration Help page.
As you’ll see from the comments below, lots of visa applications get stuck at the “pending” stage. This is normally because the applicant has forgotten to send in one of the documents, or immigration are requesting more information (but frequently aren’t clear what that is!) There have been lots of complaints about emails not being answered but Uganda immigration do reply fairly quickly via their Facebook page.
The Directorate for Citizenship and Immigration’s call centre is open from 7am to 7pm Uganda time (with plans for it to be operated 24 hours at some stage). Call +256 417 102600 or toll-free 0800 199004 / 0800 199003 in Uganda.
Uganda has 22 official ‘points of entry’ border posts. They include Entebbe International Airport, Katuna (or Gatuna), Malaba, Busia, Cyanika, Mirama Hills and Elegu. Entebbe International Airport has the majority of tourist arrivals, followed by Katuna (Rwanda) and Busia (Kenya border).
Any feedback or questions on applying for Ugandan visas online? Do please contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. I review this page on a regular basis. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
I also have a post about the East Africa Tourist Visa and a post on Rwanda’s announcement that all travelers can get visa on arrival.
Advice to would-be Ugandan travel writers – a competition!
Uganda’s Travel Writing Competition 2022 [now closed]
Writing has opened many doors for me.
Get writing between now and the end of July and you have a chance to win one of these prizes:
- 1 million Uganda shillings (always good)
- An all-expenses-paid trip to “somewhere in Uganda” (nice!)
- Mentoring (arguably the best prize of all, if you’re serious about a writing career)
The second annual Travel Writing Competition is the initiative of Irene Allen Namisango and the team at Uganda Uncovered. The muzungu will be one of the judges, alongside Julius Luwemba (journalist, writer and photographer) and Dr Jim Ayorekire (Senior Lecturer and Researcher, Makerere University).
Here are some of the things I have learned about being a travel writer.
How did I start writing Diary of a Muzungu? And why?
I started Diary of Muzungu in 2008 as I was preparing to quit my 9-to-5 job in London. This blog records the life-changing experience of saying goodbye to the corporate life to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Back then, Diary of a Muzungu was simply a personal diary (adjusting to power cuts, Luganda lessons and shopping in Namuwongo market!)
The discipline of daily writing allowed me to reflect on my radically new life. (You don’t have to publish everything of course.) Journaling – or old-fashioned scribbling in a diary – can be therapeutic as well as a chance to develop your own style. Why do I blog? 10 surprisingly for lessons from a self-confessed blogoholic. I look back on my early blogs and can see that regular blogging has improved my writing. My sentences are better structured. I have found my voice.
Writing was already a big part of my life before Uganda. I wrote proposals and reports for a living; the content could be dull, but it was excellent training. (When I felt creative, I would write for the staff newsletter). Fast forward and – hello world – I am a judge in a travel writing competition, a trainer and mentor.
Tips for being a successful travel writer
You have to put in the hours, consistently. Here is a behind-the-scenes view of a typical work trip Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger.
If you want to be a good travel writer, the writing is far more important than the travelling. Travel can be costly – and you are unlikely to get any trips funded until you have a strong portfolio – so don’t ignore what’s on your doorstep. Here are my top tips for Ugandans who want to travel.
What are the job opportunities for travel writers in Uganda?
As tourism develops in Uganda, companies are looking for talented writers to help them with their marketing. We need new ideas and perspectives but most of all, we need original, quality work. I get fed up with seeing my content posted on other people’s sites (without so much as a courtesy tag). Come on Uganda – try harder!
Unfortunately, Uganda’s copy and paste culture undermines quality output. It also weakens the destination brand if we’re all just rehashing the same content. When I say that we need original content, I mean that each story should be written from scratch. In addition, we need to look for new topics and alternative ways to structure our communications. Don’t just copy somebody else’s ideas. Do not start with “I got up in the morning and I had breakfast.” It’s boring. Find your voice. You might not get it right first time. Practice. Read.
A note for tourism businesses looking for travel content
Employers need to understand that quality writing is a resource-intensive task. It takes time to research a subject, check the facts, write the narrative, edit, review, edit again and proofread. A decent blog post or magazine article involves many revisions. (At some point, I will put an article to one side so that I can go back to it later with fresh eyes). Your travel content could be someone’s first impression of Uganda. It must read well and all the facts must be verified.
What is the theme of this year’s Travel Writing competition?
“My 100% recommendable destination in Uganda.”
Articles should be 800-1000 words about the writer’s recommended destination. According to Irene, the aim of the story is “to keep a reader engrossed and desire to visit that particular place.” Stories should be “anecdotes from personal travel experiences from road trips to camping experiences, weekend getaways to long safaris.”
At the June 21 launch at the Uganda Museum, Basil Ajer, the Director of Tourism at the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, urged “Please contestants make use of this [writing] opportunity… write and make the readers accept that Uganda is the Pearl of Africa.”
Daniel Irunga pledged total support of the initiative on behalf of the Uganda Tourism Board.
Richard Kawere, head of the Uganda Tourism Association, the industry’s apex body also endorsed the event. He has been very supportive of the initiative from its inception. “Content writing is one of the biggest gaps in the tourism industry in Uganda.”
Eric Ntalo, Uganda Wildlife Education Centre Public Relations Manager, said “It is important for Ugandans to be involved in promoting conservation and tourism. It is one sustainable way to benefit from all the endowments the country has.”
How to enter the Travel Writing Competition 2022
- The competition is open to Ugandans of 18–35 years.
- The closing date is 11:59 PM July 31, 2022.
- Submit your story as a PDF – with pictures.
- There are no fees to enter the competition.
- Articles should be between 800–1000 words.
- The organisers state that “Winners will be invited to take part in a 3-month training with the Uncovered Youth Writers Hub to further hone their writing skills. These trainings will be facilitated by award-winning travel writers and authors. Winning articles will be featured on our websites and social media platforms. In addition to the prizes, free trips and visibility, shortlisted travel writers stand a chance at employment and travel writing gigs with reputable travel agencies on the hunt for writers.”
One final word of writing advice from Diary of Muzungu
Start writing now. Don’t wait until the last minute. Start jotting some ideas down.
Multi-millionaire author Stephen King advises Write with the door closed, rewrite with the door open (meaning don’t worry about your ugly grammar or what anyone else thinks. Just dump those ideas on the page then come back to them later).
Good luck everyone! I look forward to reading your entries – and featuring a few of the winning travel stories on Diary of a Muzungu 🙂
Rwanda Uganda land border reopens after 3 years [UPDATED]
Diary of a Muzungu has crossed from Uganda into Rwanda by road.
UPDATE. May 14th 2022. Hooray! I have crossed the Katuna / Gatuna border; it was very easy.
People entering Rwanda may still be subject to random COVID-19 testing by the Ministry of Health upon entry. However, I didn’t even have to show my vaccination certificates or wear a mask either. Very few people were wearing masks at Gatuna. You don’t have contact tracing if you cross by land borders (no need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form).
Key info: anyone traveling through Kigali International Airport must have a negative PCR test result 72 hours before travelling (no change). This applies even if you are in transit. You also need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form to land in Rwanda. All departing Rwandans must be vaccinated.
Curfew is well and truly lifted. Citizens and Rwandan citizens must be fully vaccinated to access public places (including public transport, but are they checking?) You don’t need to wear a mask in public anymore.
On Monday 30th of January 2022, Rwanda reopened the land border with Uganda at Gatuna / Katuna after a 3-year closure. Other Rwanda land borders reopened on March 7th. I’ve missed my cross-border bus journeys! However, very few people have travelled between Uganda and Rwanda yet this year. Initially it appeared that the Gatuna border only reopened for trade and for nationals of the two countries. The video “advises against non-essential travel.” Unfortunately, tourism must fall into that category. Rwanda Uganda border reopens after three years.
UPDATE: March 5th I met an American passport-holder who travelled by bus from Kigali to Gatuna. She was one of only five people who crossed. She took the bus from Kigali, crossed by foot and then caught a private hire taxi to Kabale.
In recent years it’s been common for international tourists to travel to Uganda and Rwanda on one safari itinerary. During the last three years, few people have been able to do this, unless they have flown into Entebbe (Uganda) and Kigali (Rwanda) International Airports (lockdown measures not withstanding!) Many Ugandans and Rwandans have family both sides of the border.
I am monitoring the situation and updating this blog regularly.
#ExploreUganda #VisitRwanda
Uganda Wildlife Authority revises conservation fees [UPDATED]
Uganda Wildlife Authority has released a new Conservation Tariff which will be effective from 1st July 2022.
The good news is that there are very few price increases. The most notable change in Uganda Wildlife Authority’s new price list is the increased entry fee to Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda’s most popular safari destination.
You hardly need me to remind you how hard travel – and thus conservation revenue – has been hit during the pandemic. It’s therefore no surprise that the authorities are doing everything they can to raise money. Some might argue that we need discounts to encourage people to travel. However, given conservation’s dire finances recently, I say let’s be grateful how few price increases there are. Now let’s book that safari!
UWA’s summary price list (above) covers National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees, gorilla / chimpanzee / golden monkey tracking permits, primate habituation, mountain and volcano hiking, mountain biking, boat hire to watch the Shoebill on Lake Albert.
A few activities that the muzungu is looking forward to doing include:
- Hiring a boat in Toro Semliki wildlife reserve to view the Shoebill on Lake Albert.
- Kidepo Lonyilli summit hike
- Kapkwai sector of Murchison Falls National Park. (Did you know you can get free entry to Kapkwai?)
- Mount Elgon mountain biking. That must be awesome!
- Bushiyi trail extension, the shortest trail to Wagagai, the highest peak on Mount Elgon.
- Chimpanzee tracking at Ngogo (Kibale National Park) a few hundred metres from my home at Sunbird Hill
- Golden monkey habituation in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Golden monkeys are very pretty creatures!
Uganda park entry fees – Murchison Falls slight increase
From July 1st 2022, visitors to Murchison Falls National Park can expect to pay:
- Ugandan adults 25,000 Uganda shillings (was 20,000)
- Ugandan children 10,000 Uganda shillings (was 5,000)
- International tourists, adults $45 (was $40)
- International tourists, children $25 (was $20)
- Residents / expats $35 (was $30)
Stephen Masaba of Uganda Wildlife Authority explained to Diary of a Muzungu:
“For Murchison Falls, we observed high speeding and increased road kills (especially of baboons) but have also noted littering and high levels of plastic waste. Of the number of visitors to Murchison, over 10% of these people are just in transit (crossing through the park). The slight fee increase should help curb some of these effects.”
Stephen Sanyi Masaba, Director, Tourism and Business Development, Uganda Wildlife Authority
Although they don’t (yet) have the facilities that more established National Parks do, now might be a time to explore some of Uganda’s less visited protected areas such as Pian Upe and Katonga Wildlife Reserves.
For full details on activities not listed in the summary (game drives, nature walks, birdwatching and more) download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s full conservation tariff for July 2022 to June 2024 here.
Planning a Uganda safari?
Did you know I have a Travel Directory full of tour operators who would love to organise a trip of a lifetime for you? Alternatively, drop me a line and I will make some personal recommendations. Damn, writing this makes me miss the savannah…
Where are you celebrating Easter? Uganda resident specials!
Are you looking for things to do in Kampala and places to stay in Uganda this Easter?
Easter 2022 will be celebrated between 14th and 18th April, come rain come shine! It’s incredibly hot as I write this, so it’s hard to imagine rain! However, rains are certainly due…
Here are a few of Diary of a Muzungu’s suggestions on how to spend the Easter holidays. Am I missing somewhere? (I know I am! Feel free to contact the Muzungu with suggestions or recommendations).
The Easter holiday is a great time to leave Kampala for a few days. Uganda has countless destinations where you can spend the long weekend. Their numbers are mushrooming as you read!
Some hotels and lodges quote in Uganda shillings, others in dollars. I don’t usually quote prices (they date so quickly) so you should always check terms and conditions before making your booking (and do mention a certain ka blog won’t you 😎). Any prices quoted here are for Ugandans and expats / Ugandan residents. (International tourists generally pay higher prices so are not covered in this blog post).
To view images full size, just click on each one. For lodge descriptions and contact details, scroll down…
NOTE: lodge suggestions are grouped by (approximate) location.
Destination Safari! The bush is calling…
To many expats in Uganda, mention the magical words “public holiday” and the first thing they will want to do is disappear on Safari. You simply can’t beat reconnecting with nature (ideally with post-game drive gin and tonic of course!)
Safari destinations, gorillas and volcanoes …
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks
If you’ve ever thought of tracking the gorillas, Easter could be a good time as you need at least two nights in Bwindi or Mgahinga. Since there are fewer international tourists than normal, you should find it easier to get a last-minute gorilla permit. (At the time of writing, permits are still available for Easter 2022, particularly in Ruhija in Bwindi’s southern sector).
Dear would-be gorilla tracker: COVID-19 SOPs require that you wear a mask when you are in the great ape national parks and there must be a minimum of 10 metres distance between you and the animals (formerly it was 7 metres).
Chameleon Hill
Book three nights at the gloriously colourful Chameleon Hill during April 2022 and you have a choice of offers: either pay 3 nights and stay 4 nights; alternatively, pay for 3+ nights and receive a complimentary massage plus a boat excursion. Resident rates are $125 / person sharing in a double/ twin chalet and $175 single occupancy, both on full board basis. Chameleon Hill
+256 (0) 772 72 1818 welcome@chameleonhill.com
Clouds Mt. Gorilla Lodge, Nkuringo, southern Bwindi
For a rate of $230 / person / night sharing, enjoy full board accommodation at Cloud’s, one of Uganda’s top lodges. Get a 10% discount if you stay for Easter weekend. This offer applies to a minimum two-night stay. Tucked in the south-western corner of Bwindi, walk to a vantage point to admire the peaks of some of the Virunga volcanoes and peek into Rwanda and the DRC.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Bunyonyi and Lake Mutanda
Look what Gorilla Highlands dreamed up just for you:
Spend your Easter weekend with a family hike on Lake Bunyonyi, culminating in an Easter egg hunt on Habukomi Island. You can choose between the 3-day Mother of All Treks programme, 2-day Mama Bena’s Bonus or 1-day Islands of Miracles. Each trek combines dugout canoeing and hiking with the Easter Sunday island picnic and egg fun as a complimentary bonus. Don’t feel like walking? Gorilla Highlands can also take you to Habukomi by motorboat!
I have worked with the Gorilla Highlands team on many occasions. They offer awesome, authentic experiences that directly benefit the local community.
Jump in Lake Mutanda [like the girls in the photo] for the best view of the volcanic peaks of Mt Sabinyo and Mt Muhabura, two of the Virunga volcanoes
Gahiza Island Retreat offers a number of room options for Ugandan residents. Bed and breakfast is 150k ugx / double room / night, for example. For Easter 2022, book two nights and take a three-hour boat tour (worth 150k ugx) on Lake Mutanda for free or stay a third night for free!
0775235579 reservationgahizaisland@gmail.com
Buhoma Lodge, Bwindi
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Buhoma Lodge, one of Bwindi’s best, long established high end lodges and pay $155/person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. This is a steal! This Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022.
$5 per person per night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation. I love their work!
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Kibale Forest National Park and Fort Portal
The crater lakes have been enticing visitors to Fort Portal – Uganda’s first “tourism city” – for decades. Popular expat lodges include Ndali Lodge, Kyaninga Lodge, Isunga Lodge, and Papaya Lake Lodge. Each one overlooks its own lake.
If you plan to track chimps, COVID-19 SOPs state that you wear a mask and you must keep a minimum of 10 metres between you and the great apes (formerly it was 7 metres).
To the south of Kibale National Park lies Turaco Treetops “a true jungle experience where comfort meets nature!” On a clear day, you can see the Rwenzori Mountains. Families love the outdoor playground, swimming pool and kids’ playroom. Children and adults alike enjoy the guided nature walk and mountain bike tour (new ‘Giant’ bikes for adults and children are available to hire from the lodge).
Luxury cottages are in secluded locations; standard rooms have (optional) sharing balconies, perfect for families or groups of friends. It’s quite likely Turaco Treetops will be fully booked by the time you read this article but bookmark it for your next weekend away!
+256 (0) 75 715 2323
The Sunbird Hill Experience, Kibale Forest edge (3km from Kanyanchu)
One of the highlights of the Sunbird Hill Experience is the guided walk with Silver, the reformed poacher and ranger, a veritable walking encyclopedia of forest knowledge. Learn about Kibale’s birds and 100s butterfly and moth species at Butterfly Village. Sunbird Hill is set up for those who are passionate about nature. If you’re looking for an immersive experience, look no further. The ridiculously low $30 fee includes expert site guides, half day access to the Birders’ Lounge and refreshments. There is nowhere else like it in Uganda!
Visits to this private site are strictly by prior appointment. WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 julia@sunbirdhill.com
All Sunbird Hill activities support In the Shadow of Chimpanzees NGO.
Rweteera Safari Park
Don’t miss Rweteera Safari Park’s Easter offer: free canoeing experience and a guided night walk around the shores of Lake Nyabikere in search of nocturnal animals. Keep your eyes peeled for bushbaby, nightjar and crickets. You’ll know if you hear the chilling shriek of the tree hyrax!
The Easter offer is exclusively for overnight guests. Rates are single $50, double $70 (bed and breakfast). Rweteera Safari Park is within walking distance of Kibale National Park.
WhatsApp 0776862153 rweteerasafaripark@gmail.com
Beyond Fort Portal
Between Fort Portal and Kasese is the Italian-themed Lodge Bella Vista – and pizzeria – that was built by a retired Italian diplomat. The lodge and pool overlook Nyamiteza crater lake. Walk, bike and explore Toro‘s many community tourism attractions.
This Easter, book two nights at Lodge Bella Vista and get 50% off your 3rd night, subject to availability.
+256 773204264 / 759214947 booking@lodgebellavista.com
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Ishasha Wilderness Camp sits on the bend of a river in its own forest. This idyllic spot is regularly visited by wildlife and is the first place I spotted the eye-catching Narina Trogon.
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Ishasha Wilderness Camp and pay $155 / person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022. $5 per person night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation.
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Little Elephant Camp
If you love camping – but prefer glamping – head to Little Elephant Camp, rated 5 stars on TripAdvisor. Here families, couples or small groups have their own private, secure camp with a view of Queen Elizabeth National Park just outside the park’s northern boundary.
Facilities include en-suite hot water outdoor “stargazer” shower, private campfire, well-equipped mess/kitchen with refrigeration and purified water, Wi-Fi, and much more. Shop and cook for yourself or pre-order marinated barbecue, fresh ingredients and everything you need for your safari, all delivered ready for your arrival. Easter 2022 promotion price at Little Elephant Camp is $80 per person (accommodation only) based on 2 people sharing. Minimum 2-night stay.
+256 759 537220 / 787 722355 info@littleelephantcamp.com
The Observatory
One of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite places! Enjoy uninterrupted views of Lake Edward, Lake George, the Kazinga Channel and Lake Nyamusingire from The Observatory, a self-catering holiday home overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park. Two private cottages have splash pool, sauna, hot tub and barbecue area available for your exclusive hire at a very affordable rate. Click here to see gorgeous photos of The Observatory in the Travel Directory.
Kidepo Valley National Park
Did you know that everyone who goes to Kidepo rates it as their favourite National Park? The upmarket Apoka Lodge is the perfect base for a safari in Kidepo Valley. Their Easter 2022 rate is $180 / person / night sharing based on a minimum two-night stay. The rate includes full board meals and one game drive per day. Terms and conditions apply.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Mburo National Park
Popular lodges include Rwakobo Rock (a personal favourite), Hyena Hill Lodge (I’ve heard great things), Leopard Rest Camp and the one and only Mihingo Lodge.
Lake Albert
Kikonko Eco Lodge is your first address on Lake Albert. Scenic views and a serene atmosphere characterise this small boutique lodge with swimming pool. Here guests can enjoy excellent service from friendly staff and get a peaceful night’s sleep in spacious self-contained cottages with private verandas.
Easter Special: book 2 nights in a double room on a bed & breakfast basis for $120 per night and get a third night and breakfast for free. A family room sleeps up to 4 people (2 adults and 2 children). The Easter rate is $170 for bed and breakfast. An Easter egg hunt is included in the price. Other lodge activities cost between $5 to $20.
+256 784 432 508 info@kikonko.com
Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve and Semliki National Park
It’s confusing to have two very different protected areas with almost identical names! Which is which? Semliki Wildlife Reserve is a savannah park on the southern edge of Lake Albert; Semliki National Park comprises a forest and the famous Sempaya Springs.
Shhh, don’t tell everyone but Semliki Safari Lodge in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve is where you should go when you want to escape the world!
Upgraded and refurbished during the pandemic in classic safari style, Semliki Safari Lodge offers full board and one game drive per day for $160 / person / night over the Easter period. This is based on two sharing for a minimum of two nights. Booking is dependent on availability and is only extended to Ugandan citizens and Ugandan residents with proof of residence. This lodge is ab fab! Read my blog Uniquely Semliki!
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Closer to Kampala…
If you don’t have many days off, here are a few ideas for places to visit closer to the capital.
Expat favourite Nkima Forest Lodge has a great swimming pool and is ideal for mountain biking, canoeing, butterfly catching for the children and Shoebill-watching at Mabamba. Nkima Forest Lodge, Mabamba, is sister to Lake Mburo’s excellent Rwakobo Rock.
Call +256 701 865056 / +256 787 429377
Ssesse Islands
Fancy an island adventure?
Banda Island is an-ever popular, well-run location for an Easter weekend.
Rainforest Lodge in Mabira Forest
Mabira Forest is midway between Kampala and Jinja. This popular lodge has a swimming pool and sauna, badminton, volleyball, dartboard and board games. For 1.6 million Uganda shillings, a couple can stay two nights. This Easter 2020 rate is for full board and includes one complimentary bottle of wine. Cheers!
Call +256 782 574271 / +256 701 563437 reservations@geolodgesafrica.com
Jinja
Adventure tourism has taken off in Uganda with most activities based in and around Jinja, the Source of the Nile. Jinja is a favourite getaway for Kampala residents; it has something for everyone. The two new roads – Gayaza to the north and south of Jinja Road – make weekend trips in Jinja easier than ever.
Bungee Bar – and the bungee jump of course!
Uganda’s first – and currently the only – bungee jump overlooks the River Nile. No stomach for the jump? No problem. Take the safer (saner?!) option and watch the bungee from the comfort of the Bungee Bar, a fabulous spot for a sundowner. Bungee Restaurant has an extensive food and cocktail menu and is worth the ride just for the sunset views. to book a bungee jump or to reserve a table at the restaurant.
Call Rob on +256 750 707825 – and tell him the Muzungu sent you 😎
Quad biking and crazy golf for all the family at Bujagali, Jinja
Read my quad biking blog “Eat my dust!”
Also managed by Rob +256 750 707825.
Pony Rides with Nile Horseback Safaris
If you fancy trying something new this Easter holiday, how about a sunset horse ride? The $60 sunset ride – for experienced adult riders – includes beer, local spirits, juice and sodas.
Did you know Nile Horseback Safaris offer 30-minute pony rides for kids aged between 4 and 12 years? Pony rides are between 9 and 11am and 2.30 and 4pm daily (subject to availability of ponies). Children – and adults – can do longer rides if they are experienced horse riders.
Pre-booking is essential for all rides.
+256 774 101196 nilehorsebacksafaris@gmail.com
Things to do at Easter in Kampala
moonbean chocolate, based together with Dancing Cup in Bugolobi, Kampala, are offering children ‘Build-a-Bunny’ and ‘Choc-Chick’ making workshops from early April 2022, and an Easter egg-hunt and other holiday activities over the Easter weekend. Follow @moonbeanchocolate on social media for the latest details.
+256 701 805182 m.me/moonbeanchocolate
An Easter thought from Diary of a Muzungu in support of Uganda’s tourism industry
The pandemic has devastated travel in particular and there’s been a big shake-up in tourism businesses up and down the country. It’s sad when you hear negative feedback about a favourite lodge that was on top of its game two years ago, but the reality is it will take time before things get back to normal. Many businesses are still in recovery mode.
You and I might be traveling again but let’s not push too hard for discounts. Remember the more we spend, the more we’re investing in the future of tourism in Uganda.
Whatever you do this Easter, get out there and #ExploreUganda! Looking for something different? Contact the Muzungu – I have 100s more ideas. HAPPY EASTER 😎
Packing up to permanently leave Uganda? You may want to read this.
Don’t panic – the Muzungu has no plans to leave Uganda! – but the reality of expat life is that many people move on after a few years’ living in the Pearl of Africa.
In this week’s guest post, Flavia and Mark share some insights with Diary of a Muzungu readers:
Have you ever wondered what it would be like to leave Uganda permanently, after having lived in the country for a long, or maybe, a short time?
Or are you planning ahead of your uproot from your home country to Uganda? If so, this read was curated for you too. In a few paragraphs – and presumably delicate scrolls – you will get up to speed with the legal and financial aspects involved in leaving Uganda permanently.
In a similar situation as yours, many expats leave Uganda to look for a new adventure, employment in a foreign country, or to simply return to their country of origin. However, many people wonder “What does it take to start the process of leaving the country indefinitely?”
‘Do I just pack my bags and head for the airport? Or are there procedures to be followed?’
Permanently leaving Uganda, whether you’re an expat, employee, or businessperson, must be easy, wouldn’t you think? Here are some insights on a few things you may need to work through before packing up.
If you stick around long enough, you will learn a lot; how to deal with your departure process when it comes to work or business engagements, tax implications and even, how to handle your landlord or effectively dispose of property.
Planning on how to leave your current employer on good terms
All contracts of employment in Uganda are governed by the country’s Employment laws.
So, what exactly does this mean?
If you are an independent contractor, you will be required to complete any pending engagements to the satisfaction of your clients before leaving the country.
However if you are engaged under an employment contract, you will be required to formally end your employment before your departure. This can be triggered through resignation with prior notice. There are no fast and hard rules about resigning but it’s important to do it professionally and graciously. At this point, you might ask:
‘What happens to the money I have saved up with the National Social Security Fund(“NSSF”)?’
As a member of NSSF, your employer is required to remit 15% of your monthly income as savings. The 15% is a shared responsibility between you and your employer, where 5% is deducted from your monthly salary while your employer remits 10% of your gross monthly salary to NSSF. Once you decide to permanently leave Uganda, you are entitled to the payment of your remitted savings for at least four financial years. The claim for your savings is made online on the NSSF portal, or your nearest NSSF office. To support your claim, the following documents are necessary:
- Current passport size photo.
- Copy of your passport with a valid work permit.
- Proof of your bank details. The bank account must be held in the country you are heading to.
- Resignation letter, termination letter, or any document showing severance of the prior employment relationship in Uganda.
- Evidence of permanent residence status or citizenship in the Country you are moving to.
- Evidence of exit from Uganda e.g. exit stamp from Uganda and/or entry stamp to destination country.
- Notarized Passport and/or permanent residence card (if claiming online).
Expats running businesses
“Alright, but I run a business in Uganda, and before I leave I would like to dissolve my partnership, transfer stakes, or dissolve my company?” This shouldn’t be strenuous, right?
Getting out of a partnership
For starters, a partnership venture may not take so much time to dissolve since you may have a partnership deed that indicates the terms of dissolution. However, in case you have no such clause in the deed, the partnership can be dissolved by an agreement between you and your partner(s).
Leaving a company as a shareholder
Upon reaching the decision to leave Uganda permanently, and you desire to sell your shareholding, in order to have a smooth process you should consider doing the following;
- Engaging with other shareholders in order to reach a consensus on any outstanding obligations and also to set up a road map for your exit from the company.
- Conducting a financial audit.
- Valuing your shareholding to arrive at a fair market value at which you can sell your shares.
At this point, a common question comes to mind:
“What if I fail to find buyers for my shareholding?”
An alternative to selling your stake would be to dissolve the company altogether. However, we hate to say this but, the process of shareholders dissolving a company, is slightly longer than that of transferring shares or that of dissolving a partnership.
Engaging the Taxman
When you are no longer generating income in Uganda owing to your pending departure, you may consider applying to the Commissioner General of the Uganda Revenue Authority (URA) to deregister your Tax Identification Number (TIN).
Dealing with a Landlord
Just like any other relationship, landlord – tenant relationships are different for everyone. However, the relationship between the two is usually governed by the Tenancy Agreement. Termination of this contract, to some, may mean the beginning of exit obligations, for example, restoring the premises.
Disposal of assets
When most of the processes are over and you are drawing closer to the departure day, if you still possess property, you are at liberty to dispose of them before leaving Uganda.
Now let’s talk about safety for you and your loved ones
COVID-19
At the time of writing, it is mandatory to present a negative COVID-19 test taken within 72 hours of your departure from Uganda. Tests can be done from any accredited laboratory. Before you travel read Latest COVID-19 health measures at Entebbe International Airport, which is updated regularly.
Travelling with Pets
If you plan on travelling with your pet, or “fur buddy,” here is a roundup of what you may need to do to avoid inconveniences.
The first thing to do is contact the airline you are planning to fly with for full information.
Depending on the country you are travelling to, you may need a microchip for the pet, rabies vaccination, and a health certificate. Additional blood tests may also be required.
Finally you will need to register your pet with the airline, make payment and ensure that they are placed in a cage or kennel for the duration of the flight.
Lastly, the process of leaving Uganda can be quite unsettling especially if you are a business owner or have spent a considerable amount of time in the country.
However, with an exit process plan, coupled with professional advice, you can be able to seamlessly overcome the numerous obstacles that may lie ahead, and be packing within no time.
The guest writers are Kampala-based multi-disciplinary lawyers who specialise in relocation services for expats. In case of any questions or need for clarifications regarding this guest post, please reach the writers directly on the following contacts:
Flavia Asiimwe, LLB (Hons) University of Kent (UK)
Tel: +256 773360315 Email: fasiimwe@origolaw.ug
Mark Kizza, CTA (ICPAU), LLB (Hons) Makerere University
Tel: +256773091830 Email: mkizza@origolaw.ug
