How to buy gorilla tracking permits? [UPDATED]
Where can I buy Mountain Gorilla tracking permits for Uganda and Rwanda? Do I need to book permits in advance? When are the peak seasons?
Gorilla tracking permits need to be purchased in advance, that is six months or even a year in advance if you’re travelling during peak season or if you are in a large group. The earlier you book, the more choice you have on where you track and where you stay. Last minute bookings may be possible during low season or where there are just one or two people tracking, but availability of gorilla tracking permits is not guaranteed. This applies to Uganda in particular where there is high competition for the permits (owing to the lower fee than in Rwanda).
The busy peak seasons are June through to October and Christmas and the New Year.
Each gorilla family can only be visited one hour per day. There is a minimum age requirement of 15 years to track the gorillas in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC.
Gorilla tracking permits can be purchased up to two years in advance through the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) or the Rwanda Tourism Board (RTB) or via a registered tour company. DRC gorilla permits can be bought on the VisitVirunga web site.
The advantages of booking with a tour operator or Safari company is that they have intimate local knowledge of the accommodation options and proximity of gorilla families. They know these remote areas well and their drivers are experts at negotiating slippery, steep dirt roads. If you plan to extend your trip (and most people do) the company can make travel recommendations and arrange all the activity and accommodation bookings for you.
To book your gorilla tracking permit, you will need to provide:
- The date(s) you would like to track the gorillas. Suggest a few dates in case your first choice of date is already booked up. Ideally, scan and email a copy of your passport to whoever is organising your permits.
- Your name, nationality and passport number. Gorilla tracking permits are non-transferable. (Note that you will need to show your passport or some other ID at the pre-tracking briefing).
- Payment. The best way to pay is by bank wire transfer. Remember to instruct your bank to deduct any transaction charges from your account.
- If you are buying gorilla tracking permits directly from UWA or RDB, you will need to send them the bank payment confirmation email.
- If you are buying gorilla tracking permits from a tour operator, note that not all tour operators in East Africa accept credit cards. Of those that do, many add a hefty surcharge (of between 3% and 9%). Once the tour company have your preferred dates and personal details, they can make a temporary reservation with the authority.
- Confirmation of your reservation. You should receive a scanned copy of your gorilla tracking permit within a few days or weeks. When you arrive in country, your tour driver guide will give you your original permit or you will collect it from the UWA / RTB office (if you are travelling independently).
Your gorilla tracking permit will have a unique serial number and your personal details written on it. It is non-transferable.
Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Uganda
To reserve gorilla tracking permits in Uganda, you will need to specify which park (Bwindi or Mgahinga) you would like to visit. Before your tracking, UWA staff will advise which gorilla family you will track, according to your fitness level and interests.
Uganda’s gorilla families are spread over a wide geographic area, so it is important that you book accommodation that is within an hour’s drive – or a few minutes’ walk – of the start of the gorilla tracking.
To purchase gorilla tracking permits, you will need to buy them through a tour company if you are an international visitor. Ugandans and expats in Uganda can make independent purchases at the Uganda Wildlife Authority reservations office on Kira Road, Kampala or call +256 (0)414 355 409/410 or email reservations@ugandawildlife.org. (TIP: in-person visits are always more effective but the reservations office can get extremely busy).
Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Rwanda
It is slightly easier to reserve gorilla tracking permits in Rwanda, as everyone starts their day at park headquarters in Kinigi so you don’t need to specify your lodge location or a gorilla family. Before your tracking, RDB staff will advise which gorilla family you will track, according to your fitness level and interests.
Rwanda gorilla trekking permits and tours can be made through a tour company or Rwanda Development Board’s bookings portal. You can also buy permits in person at the tourism office at RDB’s excellent ‘one stop centre’ in Kigali. This is located on the ground floor of RDB’s gleaming Head Office, KN 5 Road, KG 9 Avenue, Gishushu. The centre is open from 9 am – 5 pm from Monday to Friday.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
How much does it cost to track the mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
How much are gorilla tracking permits in Uganda and Rwanda?
A gorilla tracking permit includes entry into the National Park, experienced ranger guides who will escort you while sharing unlimited gorilla facts, one hour with the gorillas themselves and – most importantly – bragging rights in the form of a gorilla tracking certificate (in Uganda) and endless selfies (wherever you track!) Woo hoo!
How much are Uganda gorilla tracking permits?
UPDATE NOVEMBER 28th 2020.
| Uganda gorilla tracking fees – (Bwindi & Mgahinga) until end June 2024 | Gorilla tracking permit | Gorilla habituation experience |
|---|---|---|
| Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 700 | USD 1,500 |
| Foreign resident (expats) in Uganda | USD 600 | USD 1,000 |
| Ugandans & EAC citizens | UGX 250,000 | UGX 750,000 |
How much are Rwanda gorilla tracking permits?
| Rwanda gorilla tracking fees (2023 fees) | Gorilla tracking permit | Fee for Student/Child |
|---|---|---|
| Foreign non-resident (international tourists) | USD 1,500 | n/a |
| Foreign resident (expats) in Rwanda | USD 500 | USD 500 |
| Rwandans & EAC citizens | USD 200* | USD 200 |
| African citizen / Foreign resident in Africa | USD 500* | USD 500 |
*UPDATE 2023: Until the end of 2023, Rwandans, expats and all Africans can track gorillas in Rwanda at the discounted prices listed above. This is unlikely to be extended, according to official sources.
- After repositioning itself as an upmarket tourist destination, in May 2017 Rwanda increased gorilla tracking permits to $1500 each, regardless of whether you were an international tourist, expat or East African residents. That sounds like a bum deal for local people (but RDB argue that only a tiny percentage of permits were sold to locals).
- Rwanda has an exclusive package for tourists who would like to book a whole family of gorillas. Priced at US$ 15,000, the group get access to exclusive personalised tour guiding.
- Visitors to Rwanda who track the gorillas and visit Nyungwe Forest and Akagera National Parks for a minimum of three days will qualify for a 30% discount on their gorilla permit.
- International visitors attending conferences in Rwanda are eligible for a 15% discount on gorilla permit fees if tracking the gorillas before or after their conference.
How much are DRC gorilla tracking permits?
Gorilla tracking permits in the DRC are very cheap by comparison. Congolese citizens have preferential pricing but other East Africans don’t.
What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?
For the best value for money, most visitors to East Africa will combine gorilla trekking with a Safari before or after their trip.
Booking your gorilla permits yourself and travelling by public transport is possible but there are pitfalls to be aware of. The downside of making your own arrangements is that you can sometimes end up incurring more costs. If, for example, you miss your bus or it breaks down (not uncommon) you might miss your gorilla trek. Permits are non-refundable, meaning if you arrive a day late, then you will have missed your slot. Most visitors therefore travel on a scheduled group tour or book their own driver and vehicle, usually through a tour company, such as one of the registered companies featured in my Travel Directory.
The other pitfall to avoid when arranging gorilla tracking yourself in Uganda is booking accommodation that is a long way from the gorilla family you are tracking. You will have to be up very early on the morning of your tracking so you want to stay as close as possible to the park headquarters. (Uganda’s gorilla families are spread several hours apart).
The average mid-range three day gorilla safari costs approximately $1200, depending on the number of people in your group. The cheapest way to see the gorillas is to travel on a scheduled overland trip during low season. If a tour is advertised to include gorilla tracking then the cost of the permit should be included in the price you are quoted, but do read the small print carefully!
A top of the range luxury gorilla Safari may cost $3 – $5,000 per person and may include fly-in options and five-star accommodation.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Things to do after tracking gorillas in Rwanda [UPDATED]
Top places to visit and tourism activities to experience after tracking the gorillas in Rwanda
You may visit Rwanda to track the mountain gorillas, but may stay for many other reasons.
The Volcanoes National Park entrance at Kinigi is the starting point for other activities including:
- Hiking Mount Sabyinyo’s imposing volcanic peak.
- Accompanied by an official ranger guide, you can visit Karisimbi and the grave of world-famous primatologist Dian Fossey and the graves of some of the gorillas she studied. If you have watched “Gorillas in the Mist” you may recall Digit the gorilla (one of the gorillas studied by Fossey).
- Trekking to see the endangered Golden Monkeys.
- The birdwatching in Virunga is sensational!
Community activities include colourful, traditional Intore dance performances and village walks to see the traditional way of life.
If you love primates, why not track chimpanzees or visit the habituated black and white Colobus monkeys in Nyungwe Forest National Park?
The laidback resort of Gisenyi, on the shore of Lake Kivu, borders Goma and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Lake Kivu is the largest of Rwanda’s lakes and is two hours drive from Rwanda’s gorilla tracking park headquarters. Visit Gisenyi for kayaking, to hike or cycle the multi-day Congo Nile Trail or to simply chill. Want to just watch the world go by for a few hours? Gisenyi is a popular day out for Kigali residents.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Where are mountain gorillas in Rwanda? [UPDATED]
Where do Rwanda’s Mountain Gorillas live? What is their habitat like?
Where are mountain gorillas in Rwanda?
Rwanda’s mountain gorillas inhabit Volcanoes National Park (Parc National des Volcans or PNV) an area of six volcanoes measuring approximately 125 square km. The Mountain Gorillas live at an altitude of between 2,500 – 4,000 metres. This area was made famous by pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, who lived for many years in the park studying gorillas.
How many gorilla families can you track in Rwanda?
Rwanda has seven gorilla families that are fully habituated and available for visits by the public. They are: Agashya, Amahoro, Hirwa, Kwitonda, Sabyinyo, Susa and Umubano.
Each gorilla family consists of at least one male Silverback gorilla, Blackbacks (younger male gorillas), several females and numerous youngsters. The largest family group, Susa, has 38 gorillas. They tend to range high into the mountains so are often the hardest to trek.
With seven gorilla families and a maximum of eight visitors allowed per group, there are a total of 56 permits available to track the gorillas in Rwanda every day.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Things to do after tracking gorillas in Uganda [UPDATED]
Top places to visit and tourism activities to experience after tracking the gorillas in Uganda
You may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, but may stay for many other reasons.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest has 120 species of mammals – including about 30 elephants – 360 species of birds and over 200 species of butterflies.
The African Bird Club voted Bwindi Africa’s number one destination for birders. Even if you don’t know much about birds, I defy you to travel to Uganda without falling in love with them! A dark forest is not the easiest place to spot many birds but a trained bird guide can lure them out of the forest by expertly imitating their songs. Birdwatching is one of the muzungu’s favourite things to do after tracking gorillas in Uganda.
About 324 tree species have been recorded in Bwindi, including shrubs, giant fern trees and vines. Nature walks to see orchids and monkeys and guided birdwatching tours can easily be arranged. A walk to see the series of three waterfalls inside the park is highly recommended. If you have time, you can take the day’s walk from one side of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to the other. Highly recommended
A visit to the impressive Bwindi Community Hospital in Buhoma, majorly funded by its proximity to the centre for gorilla tourism activity, is a great thing to do after tracking the gorillas too. It is an amazing health facility in a poor and remote corner of the world.
Make time to meet the Batwa ‘Pygmies’ the original forest-dwelling tribe, who have given up their traditional home in the National Parks as a result of international pressure to protect the endangered mountain gorillas’ habitat. The Batwa culture is unique. For centuries, they lived and hunted within the forest. Meeting the Batwa, watching how they hunted and seeing their shelters in the trees, gives an intriguing glimpse of an ancient way of life. There are a number of Batwa community projects in Bwindi, Mgahinga and Virunga. Combining gorilla tracking with some hiking, birdwatching or a safari are very popular options.
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is the only place in Uganda where tourists can see the golden monkeys. I thought this guided trekking experience above the volcanic calderas and into the bamboo forest was excellent (and enjoyed it almost as much as seeing the mountain gorillas).
Combining gorilla tracking with some hiking, birdwatching or a safari are very popular options. The areas surrounding Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park offer fantastic forest walks, volcano hikes, birdwatching, canoeing on Lake Mutanda or lake Bunyonyi and diverse community tours. If you love primates, why not track chimpanzees? Chimps populate numerous National Parks and Wildlife Reserves across Uganda.
Uganda has so many activities and things to see and do, you may well regret rushing home.
Game safaris to see elephants and lions, over 1000 bird species; the friendliest, most welcoming people; lake rides in dugout canoes, hiking, white water rafting, visits to village community projects, tasting Ugandan food, horse-riding and quad bike safaris, lively African dance displays, boat cruises to view spectacular waterfalls, huge crocodiles and hippo, are just a few of hundreds of attractions Uganda and Rwanda have to offer.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Where are the Mountain Gorillas in Uganda? [UPDATED]
Where do Uganda’s Mountain Gorillas live? How do you describe the Gorillas’ habitat?
Uganda’s Mountain Gorillas can be seen in two places in southwestern Uganda: Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park and Mgahinga Gorilla National Park.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park supports just over 50% of the world’s population of Mountain Gorillas and is therefore the most popular place to track the gorillas in the world. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – an ancient rainforest and a UNESCO World Heritage site – rises between 1,160 and 2,607 metres above sea level. It is fabulous!
Buhoma on the northern side of the Forest was traditionally the most popular place for tourists. On the southern side of Bwindi, more gorilla families have been habituated over recent years, putting Nkuringo, Rushaga and Ruhija firmly on the would-be tracker’s map of Uganda!
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
Mgahinga Gorilla National Park is Uganda’s smallest national park, measuring just 34 km2. This compact park is home to one habituated gorilla family (and an increasingly popular tracking option). Mgahinga is part of the larger Virunga conservation area which incorporates a total of 434 km2 of volcanic mountains that link Uganda with Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
How many gorilla families are there to track in Uganda?
There are many gorilla families in Uganda but only a small number have been habituated for tourist visits. Habituation means the animals have become used to the presence of humans. This is a process that takes a number of years.
In 2023, Uganda has 23 habituated gorilla families meaning Uganda has more tracking permits available every day than Rwanda has.
- There are three habituated families in Buhoma (northern sector of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest). The Mubare, Habinyanja and Rushagura families live in thick tropical forest and trekking can take 3-10 hours. If you’ve ever watched videos of humans encountering gorillas in the grounds of a lodge, then it is most likely in Buhoma.
- The Oruzogo and Bitukura families are in the Ruhija southern sector of Bwindi.
- In southern Bwindi you will find the Nkuringo family (adjacent to the place of the same name) and the Nshongi, Kahunje, Mishaya and Businge families in Rushaga.
- It’s now possible to track the Nyakagezi family, the one habituated gorilla family in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. The Uganda Wildlife Authority tell us that the Nyakagezi family is one of the most entertaining gorilla families to track. It has a higher than average number of Silverbacks in the group.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What do Mountain Gorillas look like? [UPDATED]
Basic facts about Mountain Gorillas. How big are Gorillas? What do Gorillas eat? How much do Gorillas weigh?
Did you know that gorillas and humans share 98% of the same genetic material?
Male Mountain Gorillas may grow to six feet tall and weigh between 350 and 500 pounds. As the males mature, the hair on their back turns silver in colour, giving them the name Silverbacks. An adult male gorilla may be ten times stronger than the strongest human. A Silverback’s arms can stretch 7 feet wide.
Mountain Gorillas communicate through sounds like roars, grunts and shouts.
Adults can consume up to 75 pounds of flowers, leaves, bamboo, fruit, roots and shoots every day as they move around the forest.
Did you know …. gorillas sing and hum when eating? “Singing seems to be a way for gorillas to express contentment with their meal, as well as for the head of the family to communicate to others that it is dinner time.”
When were mountain gorillas first identified by man?
It was only in 1902 that the Western world became aware of the Mountain Gorilla. (I’d love to know more about local gorilla-related beliefs and knowledge).
Back in the day, German Explorer Captain von Berenge was climbing the Rwanda side of Mount Sabyinyo when he and his friends spotted a group of mountain gorillas. They shot two of them. They retrieved one of the bodies, a young male gorilla of approximately five years of age. It was bigger than any ape the Germans had ever seen before. Some of the animal’s remains were sent to Europe for analysis, where they were identified as a new species, distinct from the Lowland Gorillas* of West Africa. This subspecies became known as Gorilla beringei beringei.
The news of a new species attracted hunters to Rwanda. In the heyday of Mountain Gorilla hunting, Sweden’s Prince Wilhelm is reported to have shot fourteen Mountain Gorillas (1920-1921).
According to Wikipedia, “in 1921, eager to learn about gorillas to determine if killing them for museums was justified, Explorers Club former President Carl Akeley led an expedition to Mt. Mikeno in the Virunga Mountains at the edge of the then Belgian Congo. In the process of “collecting” several Mountain Gorillas [for zoos], Akeley’s attitude was fundamentally changed and for the remainder of his life he worked for the establishment of a gorilla preserve. In 1925, greatly influenced by Akeley, King Albert I of Belgium established what we now know as Virunga National Park – Africa’s first national park.”
Later, the British – colonisers of next door Uganda – followed suit and for many years, no-one was allowed to visit the mountain gorillas until Walter Baumgärtel was given permission to establish visits for tourists to his Traveller’s Rest Inn, in Kisoro, Uganda, a facility where you can still stay.
Baumgärtel wrote “Up among the Mountain Gorillas” all about his personal encounters with the tranquil giant apes in southern Uganda. Pioneer primatologist Dian Fossey frequently stayed at Traveller’s Rest Inn while studying the Mountain Gorillas of Rwanda, as did George Schaller and many other renowned personalities.
*The majority of gorillas seen in zoos are the Lowland Gorillas of West Africa.
Are mountain gorillas dangerous?
Forget King Kong, Mountain Gorillas are naturally peaceful creatures, but just like humans, they have their limits. If they feel threatened (for example, if people get too close, frighten them with camera flashes or unexpected loud noises), they may occasionally send out a warning.
If you’re trekking the Mountain Gorillas, you will be visiting the habituated groups, those who are used to being in close proximity to humans.
If you follow the Gorilla Tracking Rules, you will have a safe and wonderful experience.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Uganda? [UPDATED]
Accommodation tips. Here are a few of my recommended lodges in Bwindi and Mgahinga
Where to stay when tracking gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest
Lodges in Buhoma (on the northern boundary of Bwindi)
- Buhoma Lodge is one of two lodges inside Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. It is a luxury eco-lodge of fixed tents with excellent en suite bathrooms, set into a hill with beautiful views of the rainforest.
- I love Bwindi Lodge! The interiors are superb and the full frontal view of the rainforest is second to none.
- Buhoma lodges I’ve visited include: Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp, Mahogany Springs, Engagi Lodge, Trackers, Buhoma Community Rest Camp, Haven Lodge, Silverback Lodge.
- Gorilla Conservation Camp offers comfortable budget accommodation just 2 km from the Buhoma entrance to the national park for gorilla trekkers, students and researchers. Uniquely, Gorilla Conservation Camp’s profits go to the award-winning NGO Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH).
Lodges in Ruhija / Nkuringo / Rushaga (on the southern boundary of Bwindi)
- Chameleon Hill is unique! A technicolour dream, overlooking Lake Mutanda and the Virunga volcanoes.
- Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge is set on the crest of a small hill. In the one direction, the lodge overlooks Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. In the other direction, on a clear day, guests can see the eight volcanic peaks of the Virunga.
- You’ll pay top dollar to stay at Clouds, but if a helipad and a personal butler are what you’re looking for, then look this place up!
- Travellers’ Rest in Kisoro has simple, comfortable, rather dated rooms and was a frequent stop for renowned primatologist Dian Fossey when she travelled through Uganda. It is about an hour’s drive from the park gates.
Where to stay when tracking gorillas in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park
- Mount Gahinga Lodge is just five minutes’ walk from Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Nestled beneath the volcanic peaks, this five star eco-lodge has fabulous food. Every stay includes a complimentary massage. The lodge’s numerous well thought-out community initiatives are a real hit with visitors. Meet the Batwa, the ancient forest tribe.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking [UPDATED]
What is the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking?
The Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking (or Trekking) is designed to help you choose where to go mountain gorilla tracking, where to stay, what to pack, and explain how your tracking supports the Mountain Gorillas and the local (human!) population. I also share some ideas on other activities you can do in Uganda or Rwanda, as part of your gorilla tracking tour. All information contained in this guide is based on my personal experience: tracking the gorillas, working with conservationists, researching guidebooks and 15 years supporting conservation and tourism in Uganda and Rwanda.
I can’t guarantee that every fact here is 100% accurate (but I’ve tried my very best!) Before confirming any travel plans, I’d always recommend contacting me or one of the organisations listed in my Travel Directory. All feedback, suggestions (and corrections?) are gratefully received.
According to the results of the latest census (finalised in 2022), there are just over 1,000 Mountain Gorillas living in the mountains that straddle Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (the DRC, formerly known as Zaire). A must for every eco-tourist’s travel bucket list, tracking the Mountain Gorillas truly is a unique wildlife experience. Every encounter with the gorillas is different.
No one who looks into a gorilla’s eyes — intelligent, gentle, vulnerable — can remain unchanged, for the gap between ape and human vanishes; we know that the gorilla still lives within us. Do gorillas also recognize this ancient connection?
George B. Schaller, “Gentle Gorillas, Turbulent Times,” National Geographic
There was very little activity when I first tracked the gorillas in Bwindi, Uganda. The highlight of the tracking was watching a baby gorilla hanging from one arm in the moss-covered trees above us, eyeballing us. The climb through a tea plantation and mist-covered slopes of the jungle-like forest were a magical part of the whole experience too.
My next gorilla tracking experience, in Rwanda, was altogether different: there was so much going on, the hour with the gorillas passed by very quickly. We watched twin baby gorillas playing with their mother. Huge adults sat munching in the bamboo above our heads. At one point, the whole gorilla family decided to walk through our nervous giggling group and we edged back in to the bush, as they brushed right past us. We even watched the Silverback having sex! All of this action was to the accompaniment of loud gorilla farts.
Gorilla tracking is not a cheap experience. However, receipts from gorilla permit sales have made a huge and sustainable impact on the ability of these beautiful creatures to survive. This guide focuses on gorilla tracking in Uganda and Rwanda but gorilla tracking in the DR Congo is sometimes available too. This is great news for us travellers – local people and the gorillas too. Tourist dollars contribute to conservation AND development.
Gorillas remain under constant watch, 365 days of the year. Their security and health are constantly monitored. The gorilla population numbers in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from near-extinction levels of 254 individuals in the 1980s to a still ‘endangered’ level of 1000+ in 2023. By going to track the Mountain Gorillas, you are contributing to their survival – as long as you follow the Gorilla Tracking Rules listed in this Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking.
Are you looking for answers to any of these questions?
Section 1. What do mountain gorillas look like? – including …
… Are Mountain Gorillas dangerous?
… When were Mountain Gorillas first scientifically identified by man?
Section 2. Where are mountain gorillas in Uganda? – including …
… How many gorilla families are there in Uganda?
Section 3. Which other activities can you do after tracking the gorillas in Uganda?
Section 4. Where are Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda? – including …
… How many gorilla families are there in Rwanda?
Section 5. Which other activities can you can do after tracking the gorillas in Rwanda? – including …
… Which other activities can you do after trekking gorillas in Rwanda?
Section 6. How much does it cost to track to see the Mountain Gorillas? – including …
… What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?
Section 7. How can I buy gorilla tracking permits? – including …
… Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Rwanda
… Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Uganda
… Contacts for purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in the DRC
Section 8. Gorilla tracking FAQs Frequently Asked Questions. – including …
… Am I guaranteed to see the gorillas?
… How many days should I book for my gorilla tracking tour?
… Should I hire a porter for when I go gorilla tracking?
… When is the best time of year to track the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 9. Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Uganda?
Section 10. Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Rwanda?
Section 11. What can I expect on my gorilla tracking tour?
Section 12. What are the gorilla tracking rules?
Section 13. What is the best way to travel to the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 14. What should I pack for tracking gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Section 15. What are the best tips for photographing the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 16. Are Mountain Gorillas an endangered species? – including …
… Which conservation organisations are working to protect the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 17. What are the differences between tracking the gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Section 18. Gorilla tracking in the DRC *new page coming soon*
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Top things to do in Kampala [UPDATED]
What’s on in Kampala?
Visitors to Uganda are often driven straight upcountry, away from the congested capital. That’s understandable since the country’s main draw are the National Parks. Also, since most visitors live in towns, you can understand they don’t find the idea of a busy city appealing. Kampala is where the crime is – like cities the world over – yet it’s dynamic (and I always feel a sense of excitement as I approach the city). Many now realise we have underestimated Kampala’s attractions and in 2022 Uganda Tourism Board opened a tourism information office in the grounds of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel.
Kampala – affectionately known by some as KLA – is a great place to live. This crazy, noisy, congested city can drive you nuts at times but there’s always something going on. Eh! I hardly know where to start…
What’s for breakfast in Kampala?
Okay, let’s start the day with coffee. Cappuccino is my personal weakness, and can now easily – although not cheaply – be found in most of Kampala’s major shopping centres, big hotels and urban areas. Some of my favourite coffee shops in Kampala include Coffee at Last in Makindye, Cafesserie and Endiro at numerous locations (the cosy Endiro Nakasero cafe is run by deaf staff), Le Petit Village at Quality Hill on Ggaba Road, Café Kawa in Tank Hill, Muyenga and Café Pap in Parliament Avenue and Ntinda. The Southside Market at Dancing Cup in Bugolobi is a popular Saturday hang-out. CJ’s (Cafe Java’s) – at various locations – always have excellent service (and large portions, especially during Ramadan). These also serve African tea.
What’s the perfect accompaniment to morning coffee? Croissants (yes!) or beef sambosas (samosas) and of course the number one Ugandan delicacy, the famous rolex! (“Rolled eggs” omelette in a chapati). Katogo (steamed savoury banana with beans or meat) is a popular Ugandan breakfast. I love it! (Unless it contains ‘gizzards’). Yuck.
Coffee / tea break over, Kampala’s markets are excellent. There’s a market for everything but you have to be ready for haggle. Expat tip: go with a Ugandan friend, unless you want to pay ‘muzungu price’ for every other thing.
Fancy a spot of shopping?
Popular Kampala markets are Nakasero (fruit, vegetables, spices and grasshoppers) and Nakawa (everything – and slightly cheaper than the markets in town). I love Ggaba market on the edge of Lake Victoria. It’s a great place to pick up brightly coloured Tanzanian cloth (as well as all your fruit and vegetables, the cheapest mukenne and other fish, fresh or dried). (The maze-like Owino was once Kampala’s best place for second-hand clothing, shoes and bags; the packed and chaotic downtown is still the best place for all kinds of bargains).
If you’re into arts and crafts and souvenir shopping, head to the extensive ‘Daisy Arcade’ craft market on Buganda Road. There are a small number of craft shops behind the National Theatre too.
Feeling arty?
Kampala has a small but thriving art scene and most exhibitions are free. The best way to find out what’s going on is to follow them on social media. Kampala art galleries include Nommo Gallery, Afriart Gallery on Seventh Street (in the Industrial Area) and Umoja. The Uganda Museum has occasional art shows, in addition to the permanent historic displays. The museum is very dated but still has a certain appeal. It’s definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have a guided tour. Kampala’s Alliance Francaise and Goethe Institute always have a busy timetable of events.
The National Theatre in central Kampala has a programme of dance, drama and art. There are regular shows, films, dance classes and jam sessions. The best way to find out what’s on at the National Theatre is to visit in person or look for their monthly flyer.
The National Theatre was the original venue for the annual Bayimba Festival. Bayimba has since moved to Lunkulu Island on Lake Victoria.
Experience Uganda through music and dance!
The Ndere Troupe’s show is the perfect introduction to Uganda for new visitors, but honestly everyone should watch this brilliant show, more than once! The highly professional Ndere Troupe is a must-see celebration of Uganda and Africa – through traditional music and dance on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday nights. The Ndere Centre is on Kampala’s Northern Bypass. Read my blog about Ndere’s sensational musical and cultural experience.
Did you know, Kampala has the best nightlife in East Africa?
Don’t take my word for it, dive into Kampala’s nightlife! My friends from Nairobi love this party city. Downtown Kabalagala is famous from here to Kigali to Goma to Bujumbura and Dar – and every part of East Africa in between.
Move over Acacia Avenue and Muyenga, Kisementi and Bugolobi are Kampala’s more popular nightspots these days with new bars and restaurants opening all the time. Kampala’s top hotels have New Year parties, fireworks, live music and more. Ugandans love to party anywhere! Every neighbourhood has several bars. If you like your beer cheap, just sit on a wooden bench outside your local shop. Local ‘pork joints’ are usually good value for money too (unless you’re a vegetarian of course!)
Kampala’s Industrial Area has the city’s best known nightclubs: Guvnors and Ange Noir, but you don’t need to go to a nightclub to dance. Have a few drinks and we will dance anywhere in UG!
Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix).
As for getting to all these great places safely, the muzungu is a big fan of “ride hailing apps.” In 2022, Lolo was my new favourite; SafeBoda now provide cars as well as bodas. Uber and Bolt may have been first but they lost the plot during the fuel crisis, with driver after driver doubling the fees. Driving in Kampala is a favourite (tongue in cheek) blog.
Prefer to walk?
Are you interested in history and architecture? The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda has launched a book, maps and a *free* mobile phone app all about Entebbe, Jinja and Kampala’s historical buildings. It’s a fun way to tour the three towns. Read History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a free mobile app.
This page is work in progress – it merely skims the surface of Kampala!
Looking for more thngs to do in Kampala? Send me a message!
What’s the best way to travel to the mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
Can I fly to see the Mountain Gorillas? How long is the journey by road from Kampala (in Uganda) or Kigali (in Rwanda) to the gorillas’ habitat?
The main roads to the gorilla tracking regions of Uganda and Rwanda are generally good but travel is much slower than on European or American roads, for example. Secondary roads are often slow and bumpy, especially approaching Uganda’s gorilla parks. Be prepared for long car journeys often taking most of the day. Four-wheel drive vehicles are required for certain routes in the rainy season when heavy rains can cause floods and even damage roads. I’ve travelled to every corner of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Mgahinga and Volcanoes National Park by every possible means: private car, bus, public transport, boda boda (motorbike taxi) and 12-seater plane. However you travel, enjoy the journey! The scenery is fabulous.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – home to the world’s biggest population of mountain gorillas – is 8+ hours’ drive from Kampala or Entebbe. If you’ve never visited this part of the world before, you’ll find the drive is a fantastic opportunity to watch everyday African life as you drive through the small trading centres. En route through the gloriously green Pearl of Africa you will cross the Equator (and the obligatory stop for photos!)
If you have time to spare, you can easily make a detour for a Safari in Lake Mburo National Park or Queen Elizabeth National Park.
If you prefer to fly, a round trip air ticket from Entebbe Airport or Kajansi Airstrip to the Bwindi area costs approximately $400. This one and a half hour flight in a small aircraft is out of this world! You pass over islands on Lake Victoria, swampy marshlands, villages and the mist-covered valleys of south-western Uganda. Seeing the cloud-covered peaks of the volcanoes appear on the horizon is an unforgettable sight. The airstrips of Kisoro or Kihihi are 30 minutes / one hour from most gorilla tracking lodges.
If you’re pushed for time – or you don’t fancy a long road drive – the best option is a flight to Kigali and the short drive to Volcanoes National Park, home of Rwanda’s gorillas. The drive takes just two hours from Rwanda’s capital city Kigali on very good roads. En route you will quickly understand why it is called ‘the Land of 1000 Hills’!
It’s also possible to fly to Kigali and drive across the border to see Uganda’s gorillas. (Both options take considerably less time than driving from Kampala).
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What are the differences between tracking the gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Uganda or Rwanda: how do you decide where to go mountain gorilla tracking?
Mountain gorilla tracking is a professionally organised and well-developed ecotourism experience. It is the number one tourist attraction in both Uganda and Rwanda. Wherever you stay, there is a good range of accommodation options available to you. Gorilla tracking in the DRC is now back on the bucket list, but offers fewer tracking and accommodation options. If you’re interested in mountain gorilla tracking in the Congo, do drop me an email. A new page is planned!
Ranger guides are professionally trained, will look after you well and are full of useful information. They know the gorilla populations intimately. Ranger guides speak good English. In Rwanda, many guides also speak French (in addition to Kinyarwanda of course!)
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Uganda
I simply love the drive to see the gorillas in Uganda, even from Kampala, even though it takes a whole day. Whether you are tracking the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (Buhoma, Nkuringo, Ruhija or Rushaga) or Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, the last hour or two’s scenery en route is divine.
Gorilla tracking permits are cheaper in Uganda (although they have removed the off-peak season discounts). In my view, Uganda also has lots more to see and do before or after your gorilla tracking adventure. Uganda and Rwanda are right next door to each other however, so you could track the gorillas in Rwanda and then drive to Uganda for the rest of your East African holiday, or vice versa.
Since first writing this guide, Rwanda has doubled the cost of its gorilla tracking permits to $1,500 making the country unaffordable to most people. Interestingly, the popularity of gorilla tracking in the DRC is on the increase and is dirt cheap by comparison. Check out my gorilla permit cost page.
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Rwanda
Rwanda’s boast is that you can fly in and do the gorilla tracking in one (rather hectic) day and fly back home the same night. I wouldn’t recommend that though.
The short drive from Kigali International Airport to the start of the gorilla tracking in Rwanda is only two hours but the drive is not as scenic (breath-taking!) as Uganda. However, the roads are better, so gorilla tracking in Rwanda includes a more comfortable drive. Although the gorilla tracking permits cost more in Rwanda, you may save money by doing a shorter trip. By comparison, in Uganda you have to stay a minimum of two nights, thus pushing the overall price up.
Which is the best: tracking the gorillas in Uganda or Rwanda?
The Muzungu highly recommends gorilla tracking in both Uganda and Rwanda. Both experiences are fantastic.
I loved hacking through the rainforest in Bwindi and I loved the bamboo forest of Rwanda. I know people who have tracked the mountain gorillas dozens of times. They continue to go back because every experience is so different. Likewise with tourists and travellers, some decide that if they are travelling all the way to East Africa, then why not track both Uganda’s mountain gorillas and Rwanda’s gorillas too?
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Still got a question? Contact the Muzungu.
