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Six more great reasons to track gorillas in Uganda!

Five more gorilla families available to track in Bwindi + Tracking fee increases in Uganda.

Got a thing for great apes? This is what you need to know if you want to track gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda in 2024 and beyond

There are now at least SIX* more great reasons to track gorillas in Uganda!

🦍 Did you hear that five more gorilla families are now available for tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest? Scroll down for full information.

🦍 And to make gorilla tracking even more appealing, we’ve just heard that another baby has been born in Rushaga, to the south of the forest.

*5 more gorilla families + 1 new baby = 6

Is there anything cuter than a baby gorilla?

This week brought exciting news from the Uganda Wildlife Authority: a fluffy addition to the Bikingi mountain gorilla family! The newest family member is the offspring of mother Mucecuru and fathered by Silverback Kaharata.

baby Bikingi Mountain Gorilla Family. Brian Nvuyekure Feb 2024 Uganda Wildlife Authority
PHOTO CREDIT to Brian Nvuyekure (Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger) for capturing this special moment in Rushaga, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Five more gorilla families available for tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

With the habituation programme complete, UWA has confirmed that permits can now be booked to see the following gorilla families:

  • Buhoma [northern Bwindi] – Binyindo + Muyambi families
  • Nkuringo [southwest Bwindi] – Posho family
  • Rushaga [southern Bwindi] – Rwigi + Tindatine families

During the course of habituation, which has taken up to four years for some gorilla families, visitors from around the world have accompanied rangers and researchers on their daily monitoring. The process of habituation gradually acclimatises wildlife to the presence of humans. It means we can safely spend time in each other’s company safely without impacting the great apes’ behaviour.

With another five habituated gorilla families, Uganda now has 194 gorilla tracking permits available every day. In addition, there are four permits available for the gorilla habituation experience.

What’s the catch?

Simultaneously, Uganda Wildlife Authority have announced price increases* to primate tracking fees, and a number of other activities, to take effect on July 1 2024. Still, with a gorilla permit in Rwanda costing a hefty $1500, Uganda’s gorilla permits continue to get snapped up very quickly, particularly during peak seasons of summer and Christmas. If you’re planning a gorilla tracking safari, you may even need to reserve permits a year in advance.

*These are the key fee changes, but scroll down for the full list.

Mountain gorilla tracking permits

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks: $800 (currently $700)


Chimp tracking permits

Kibale Forest: $250 (currently $200)
Kyambura Gorge, Queen Elizabeth National Park: $100 (currently $50)


Chimpanzee habituation permits

Kibale Forest: $300 (currently $250)

Gorilla tracking discounts for African passport holders:

Gorilla tracking permit: $500

Gorilla habituation experience: $1000

Why have the fees increased?

The revision in permit fees is a response to the increasing expenses associated with conservation, which encompasses anti-poaching campaigns, patrolling, monitoring and community development initiatives. It’s worth highlighting that a significant portion, specifically 20%, of the fees for permits and park entry is given to invest in communities neighbouring the National Parks. This ensures that experiences with primates (notably gorillas, chimpanzees and golden monkeys) contribute meaningfully to community development.

Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024

Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024
Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024
Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024

Click here to download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s 2024 tariff for all permits and National Parks. Note that unless stated in the letter above, other prices will not increase after July 1 2024 (as far as the muzungu is aware!)

What’s it like to track gorillas and chimpanzees?

I’ve tracked gorillas, chimps and golden monkeys numerous times in Uganda and Rwanda and written extensively about gorilla tracking for international publications. I also work closely with gorilla and chimpanzee conservation NGOs, guides and tour operators. Got a question? Send me a message 😎


Have you seen the Giant goliath beetle?

The Giant goliath beetle! 😍 When I moved to Uganda 15 years ago my no. 1 one fear was insects – now look at me 😂

It’s amazing what interests people: one of my British friends is planning to visit me in Uganda. This is the very thing that she wants to see!

Sadly, this particular beetle was attacked by a black and white casqued hornbill. (You can see the damage to its wing).

Did you know the giant goliath beetle is the world’s heaviest beetle?

We see them occasionally at Sunbird Hill, on the edge of Kibale Forest. They love tree sap. In fact I have seen them fighting with butterflies for it. They all get drunk! Yes! Imagine this big drunken beetle flying through the air.

The Sunbird Hill team specialise in immersive nature experiences, conservation and citizen science focusing on the smaller creatures: butterflies, moths, insects, birds and snakes. I’ve written dozens of stories about our extraordinary life here.

The East Africa Travel Podcast by Charlotte Beauvoisin
Sunbird Hill is the inspiration for the East Africa Travel Podcast, launching soon.

Sign up to be the first to be notified when we go live.

Yes! Travelers vote Uganda “Best Safari Country”

You read it right! 1000s of travelers and SafariBookings experts agree

For those of us who live in this insanely beautiful corner of the world, it’s no surprise to read that Uganda has just been rated “Africa’s best safari country by travelers.” This is the result of a survey by SafariBookings, the continent’s biggest online platform for tour operators and safari companies.

Uganda voted Africa's best safari country. 2023 ratings for major African destinations on SafariBookings.com
2023 RANKINGS: Ranked no. 5 overall, Uganda received a whopping 4.83/5 from travelers

This remarkable performance takes into account a whole range of categories, from wildlife and scenic beauty to birding and bush credentials. Uganda was also the clear winner when it comes to Africa’s best birding-safari country, as voted by the experts.

Uganda clearly has reason to be optimistic about future surveys, as they’re hot on the heels of the current top three. Watch this space…

SafariBookings‘ verdict on Uganda as a safari destination. SafariBookings is the world’s largest resource and leading authority for planning an African safari. They check the registration papers of all tour operators, and have 92,471 traveler reviews written by people like you. 

What the experts say about Uganda

We know Philip Briggs as the author of the Uganda Bradt Guide, the country’s best-known guidebook. I interviewed Briggs in Uganda. He also writes for SafariBookings.

In the same survey, SafariBookings travel experts rank Uganda as Africa’s best birding safari destination!

If you’ve been reading Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know that I love birds. Birds send my heart a flutter is a collection of some of my Uganda birdwatching stories.

Pair of Little Bee-eaters. Uganda birds. COPYRIGHT Sherry McElvie
Pair of Little Bee-eaters. Uganda birds. COPYRIGHT Sherry McElvie

New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😁🦍🌳🦁 links to popular pages and the most useful resources.

Pig on a boda

There’s nothing like waking in your own bed except that I lift my head off the pillow and felt violently sick. The sensation carries on throughout the day. Looking up makes me feel woozy and I almost fall over, more than once. I blame the potholed road for upsetting my sense of balance.

I slept early. The drive from Kampala took its toll on me this week. Large sections of the road to Fort Portal are being repaired and we drove in the heat of the day. The journey passes quickly if you chat but my friend’s thoughts were elsewhere.

The journey’s highlight was the sunset boda boda ride through Kiko tea plantation before Fort Portal. It’s another world in there: the lurid bright green of the tea bushes contrasts with the winding dusty roads, (we took more than one wrong turning) but the cut through Kiko got us through Kibale Forest before darkness fell. Baboons were still at their vigil on either side of the road. Forest raindrops caught us as we sloped down the steep slippery track towards my home at Sunbird Hill.

tea plantation. Kibale Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu blog
tea plantation between Kibale Forest and Fort Portal Uganda. PHOTO Diary of a Muzungu blog

Waiting for my boda at the Kiko turn-off, I watched three cows amble towards the busy main road. A young man threw a stone at one. It turned in the other direction. He picked up a branch and ran towards them. It was a comical sight to watch him sprinting after the cows, his white gumboots flashing as he lifted one leg after the other! After hundred metres, the cows now safely away from the main road, he turned to walk back to the laughing boda drivers.

A third boda boda pulled up with three individuals on it, one of them being a tightly trussed-up pig! My heart went out to this poor little piggy yet I admired the deft way the animal was attached to the boda. (It’s amazing what you can do with a bit of string if you put your mind to it!)

Pig on a boda. PHOTO by me Charlotte Beauvoisin

I had not wanted to travel far from my home on the edge of Kibale Forest, but work commitments beckoned. I felt I put life on hold by leaving so soon… and how long am I back here for this time?

Back home, as the kids unpacked sacks of beans and posho from the vehicle, Hope said “Auntie Charlotte, I have a surprise for you” as she passed me a refrigerated plastic container. I removed the lid, intrigued. Was it edible?

MAWAY!

“I assume it’s dead… ?”

The Rhinoceros Viper is a beautiful but venomous beast. I’m not sure how this specimen has been donated to our collection but it’s beautifully preserved and will make fascinating conversations for visitors and guides at Sunbird Hill.

Whenever we find reptilian roadkill, we slam on the brakes and pick up the remains. Our freezer is full of snakes (and beetles)!

Do you like my stories? Tell me what you think!

Latest health measures at Entebbe International Airport, Uganda [UPDATED]

This page is updated regularly and supercedes all previously published Uganda travel information. Here we cover information relating to COVID-19 and Yellow Fever screening at Uganda’s Entebbe International Airport and share updates about the airport itself.

COVID-19 in Uganda – summary

UPDATE June 19th 2023: I have been in/out of Entebbe Airport this month and at no point did I hear the dreaded words “COVID” “PCR” or “certificate” mentioned. HOORAY. I appreciate the blog reader who emailed to share that “unvaccinated travellers are no longer required to have a negative PCR test result for entry into Uganda since 7 March.”

Arrivals at Entebbe Airport

Travelers to Uganda are recommended to check with their airlines regarding COVID-19 requirements or risk being denied boarding. The advice varies from airline to airline.

The arrivals process at Entebbe International Airport follows this order:

  • Sanitise hands [now optional].
  • Have documents checked:
  • Yellow Fever certificate [mine wasn’t checked last week].
  • Pass through immigration. (If you are a tourist, it’s imperative that you apply for your Uganda tourist visa online in advance. Some airlines will not allow you to board without your visa approval letter. ADVICE STILL APPLIES JUNE 2023). I have written extensively about Uganda tourist visas and East Africa Tourist Visas and frequently answer visa-related enquiries.
  • Collect your checked-in luggage.
  • If you need an ATM or Forex (foreign exchange), you can access both by the baggage carousel.
  • Pass luggage (including cabin bags) through scanner.
  • If you are a tourist, you may be met by a representative of Uganda Tourism Board. UTB have a tourist information desk and seating just past the baggage collection area. UTB staff are on hand to make phone calls and order taxis, for example. This service is available for all tourists, 24 hours a day, even for those who travel independently. This initiative is spearheaded by Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board.
  • Entebbe Airport has free WiFi.
  • Exit airport.
  • Enjoy fabulous Ugandan weather!
Passengers are advised to arrive at Entebbe Airport three hours before departure due to construction works. Uganda Civil Aviation Authority, December 2022
Passengers are advised to arrive at Entebbe Airport three hours before departure due to construction works. Uganda Civil Aviation Authority, December 2022

Departures at Entebbe Airport

  • Travelers departing Entebbe International Airport are required to know, understand, and interpret COVID-19 requirements of both the country they are travelling to and the airline they are flying with.
  • The muzungu adds: I advise having a print-out of your COVID-19 vaccination / negative COVID PCR certificate [as per destination you are heading to]. Print facilities are available at the airport but you will need to allow extra time to go to lower ground floor of arrivals.
new COVID-19 public health measures Uganda December 2022
new COVID-19 public health measures Uganda December 2022

December 2 2022: President Museveni announced new directives recommended by Uganda’s National Taskforce on COVID-19. In summary these state that: everyone who attends “public meetings and gatherings in public places” or who wants “to access government and private offices” must have certificates proving full doses plus a booster or 24 hour PCR negative test for unvaccinated / partially vaccinated; indoor & outdoor mask mandates reinstated [I really don’t know what that means!] and “handshaking and hugging remain prohibited,” apparently.

Entebbe Airport Uganda. COVID-19 testing 2021. Diary of a Muzungu
Entebbe Airport Uganda. COVID-19 testing 2021. Diary of a Muzungu

The muzungu adds: Uganda is famously big on rules and poor on implementation but these are the rules, so be prepared to show your certificate(s) and/or wear a mask.

Yellow Fever in Uganda – summary

Yellow Fever vaccinations are now valid for life, says the World Health Organization, so no boosters are needed. You can just show a copy of your certificate on your phone on arrival at Entebbe. No Yellow Fever certificate? You can have the jab at Entebbe Airport. This costs $40 (however, it takes ten days to take effect so do have the injection before you enter Uganda, if you can).

That said, there’s almost no risk of getting Yellow Fever. There was a handful of suspected infections in early 2022 but the minor outbreak was quickly contained.

Ebola in Uganda – summary

Lastly, on January 11 2023 (42 days without new infections) the World Health Organization has declared “Uganda Ebola outbreak finished.” Thank you to the health workers, Ugandan residents, government and donors who worked so hard to free the country of the virus.

Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!] just process this page.

Are you planning to travel to Uganda soon? Feel free to contact me directly if you have any travel questions.

The Travel Directory has a list of tour operators who can help you plan a trip.

I regularly travel through Entebbe Airport. I write about my experience at arrivals and about the check-in experience at Entebbe Airport, both in 2021. However, as stated above, this page supercedes all previously published Uganda travel information.

Clear? Confused? Just send me a message.

Tanzania

The Muzungu’s top reasons to travel to Tanzania, the ‘soul of Africa’

Serena Inn, Stone Town, Zanzibar. Diary of a Muzungu, Swahili
This is why I travel… to sit at a table overlooking the beach at the Serena Inn, Stone Town, Zanzibar. Want a glass of mimosa? “You just have to ask.” Fresh frangipani flowers, custard apple juice, mimosa sparkling wine cocktail and ‘madafu’ coconut juice decorate the Diary of a Muzungu, Swahili-style!

It’s taken me a long time to visit Tanzania. There’s so much that is familiarly East African, yet so many charming delights that are uniquely Tanzanian!

1. Tanzania has 14 National Parks, 370 mammal species and over 1000 birds.

2. Overdose on wildlife viewing at Ngorongoro Crater. Experience the Great Migration on the Serengeti Tours” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow”>Serengeti, one of the ‘Seven Natural Wonders of Africa’ – watch it from a hot air balloon!

3. Tanzania is the base for hiking Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain

4. Relax on Tanzania’s Indian Ocean coast. Go diving!

5. Fly or take the ferry to the island archipelago of Zanzibar, famous for the islands’ white coral sand beaches

6. Tour the historical cobbled streets and Arab-influenced Stone Town, Zanzibar, celebrated for its film and music festivals. No trip to Zanzibar is complete without a spice tour!

7. Tanzania has seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the Serengeti, Selous National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Stone Town.

8. Enjoy unusual fresh juices – such as coconut ‘madafu’ and custard apple

9. Explore the Selous, Africa’s BIGGEST game reserve!

10. Explore Dar es Salaam, East Africa’s second biggest port and a melting pot of African, Arabic and Indian influences.

“Jambo” – is the Swahili greeting for “welcome” which you will hear everywhere in friendly Tanzania.

Wolfgang Thome, Edgar Batte, Charlotte Beauvoisin, Solomon Oleny. Kilimanjaro Airport
Me and my awesome travel buddies! Tourism and aviation expert Prof. Wolfgang H. Thome and travel journos Edgar R. Batte & Solomon Mario Oleny, at Kilimanjaro International Airport

The Great Migration of one and a half million Wildebeest traverse the Mara River twice yearly between the Serengeti in Tanzania and Kenya’s Maasai Mara. Game-viewing includes huge buffalo herds, thousands of antelope, elephant and giraffe.

Serengeti wildebeest migration map
Serengeti wildebeest migration map. PHOTO www.tanzaniatourism.com

If you’re going to the Serengeti Tours” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow”>Serengeti, treat yourself to a hot air balloon safari! It’s a huge adventure from start to finish. Get up at the crack of dawn to watch the balloon being inflated and jump in the basket, ready for the off. Watch the sun rise as your balloon moves silently across the savannah, following the wildlife below. It’s amazing what you can see up there! A champagne and breakfast in the bush are just one part of this fabulous experience.

One of Tanzania’s most popular attractions is the Ngorongoro Crater, known as “Africa’s Garden of Eden,” home to 30,000 animals including the rare black rhino and black-maned male lions.

Ngorongoro Crater. PHOTO www.tanzaniatourism
Ngorongoro Crater. See how the cloud kisses the rim of the crater! PHOTO www.tanzaniatourism

This jaw-dropping scenery is under the most serious of threats. Tanzania presses on with hydroelectric dam on vast game reserve. “Stiegler’s Gorge dam on the Selous park, a World Heritage Site listed as ‘in danger’, will cause irreversible damage, say conservationists.” Read The true cost of the Stiegler’s Gorge hydropower project in Tanzania (2019).

An (avoidable) environmental nightmare beckons… despite “the excellent potential of solar and wind power options.”

Serena.Selous game drive, Tanzania
My turn to drive… (I wish!) What a superb game drive we had, from the luxury tented Selous Serena Camp on to catch our own private boat for Serena Mivumo River Lodge….
lion lazing. Serena. Selous Game Reserve, Tanzania
No zoom lens required! En route we chanced upon a pride of five lions sleeping in the afternoon sun. Selous Game Reserve safari
Selous clouds and landscapes
I loved the open landscape – the many landscapes in fact – of the Selous. Keep reading Diary of a Muzungu for more safari stories from the Selous!
Buffalo herd. Selous Serena Camp safari. Diary of a Muzungu
A herd of 300 buffalo were just a few minutes drive from our base at Selous Serena Camp. What a sight (and a powerful smell too!)
Lion in afternoon sun. Selous Game Reserve. Serena safari
Lion sleeping in the afternoon sun in Selous Game Reserve. Exclusively ours: on an all day game drive, we only saw four other safari vehicles.

Did you know…?

Swahili is the official language of Tanzania but English is widely spoken.

Watch my short video: my view from the cockpit! Flight between Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam.

We flew with Precision Air on their inaugural flight in 2017 between Dar es Salaam on the Tanzanian coast and Entebbe in Uganda (however Precision don’t currently fly that route).

The inaugural Precision Air flight Entebbe to Dar. July 1st. Wolfgang Thome
The inaugural Precision Air flight Entebbe to Dar. July 1st 2017. Aviation expert Wolfgang Thome captures every moment
inaugural Precision Air flight Entebbe to Dar. July 1st 2017. Wolfgang Thome
It’s an aviation custom that the inaugural flight is baptised on the tarmac! We took the first Precision Air flight from Entebbe to Dar es Salaam thanks to the wonderful Professor Wolfgang

Click here for reviews of 100s of Tanzania tours.

Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]

Kampala expats share their experiences and advice about moving to Uganda with a young family. (It’s mostly very positive!)

I regularly receive questions about moving to work in Uganda and about expat life in Kampala. There are so many great things to say about Uganda but visiting for a couple of weeks isn’t the same as living here. If you’re travelling to the country on safari, or to track the gorillas, you may bypass the capital city entirely, but I love Kampala! It may be intense but the buzz can be addictive.

Is Uganda safe to visit? FOR COMMENTS ON LATEST NEWS, scroll down to the post comments

Below is a typical question I received via WhatsApp recently, in response to my popular post “Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats.” My posts have hundreds of questions from readers – and I reply to them all – however, I thought it would be useful to share answers to this common question. Names have been withheld but all comments are genuine.

“I am moving to Kampala in a few months with my wife and our 3 year old daughter. Of course the worst thing you can do is Google ‘is Uganda safe?’ Lots of words like terrorism and don’t travel. Can you give any info or advice on safety for a young family. I have been to Angola and Uganda for short periods by myself and must admit I felt very comfortable in Kampala. Are the current precautions in place by other governments just that or are there real issues ongoing? Thank you in advance.”

I have my own views and experiences (since moving here in 2009) but was interested in what the expat community would advise. Here are some of their comments.

Is Uganda safe? Uganda is very safe in my opinion. Crowded areas are – as everywhere in the world – places where you’ve to pay more attention but Ugandans are very homely and friendly. For me the most dangerous thing is the road in the sense of accidents.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree. Traffic and road safety are likely to be the biggest daily concern.

Crowded places are safer than empty streets in terms of violent crime, though you might get your pockets picked 

Kampala Expat

One expat added “I wouldn’t recommend that women walk alone at night.”

In my humble opinion the biggest threats are the night clubs and overnight church services… and traffic. Other than that, it’s a great place to live and there is plenty for kids to do. The key in Kampala at least is to live close to work and school.

Kampala Expat
rush hour boda boda motorbikes Jinja Road Kampala. PHOTO Diary of a Muzungu
Rush hour at Jinja Road Kampala. Boda boda motorbikes. PHOTO by Diary of a Muzungu

Is Uganda safe? Yes, road safety and electronic-device-thefts are the two primary concerns. Terrorism is no more a threat here than in the countries which issue the warnings – indeed is probably even less of a concern here – but is a possibility anywhere in the world, sadly. I feel like my children are safe from threat of kidnapping and such. Now the trash burning and air quality in Kampala are pretty bad. If they have any lung issues (allergies, asthma, etc.) that’s something to consider. I’m personally having health issues because of it.

Kampala Expat

Another person agreed that “The overall air quality in Kampala is bad. Wish someone had told me so I could have made a decision about it beforehand.”

I find Uganda massively child friendly having moved here from London 2 years ago. We were here for the bombs which were scary but didn’t feel like they directly targeted us. You can be in the wrong place at the wrong time but more of that kind of thing has happened in my home city than here so I guess it depends where you are coming from. My main concerns here for the kids are them getting seriously sick (not happened as yet), traffic accidents outside of Kampala as traffic is slow moving in the city so unlikely to hurt a child in a car.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree the bombings were very scary but I worked in London when we had bombs on the buses and Tube… It’s a reminder that terrorism can strike anywhere…

A mother agreed that “My kids have a much more carefree existence here in Uganda than in London.”

Thanks to all of you for the unbiased review of Uganda. Life in Uganda can be quite addictive. Once in you may find it hard to leave.

Kampala Expat

“Best practice is to forward government travel advisories straight to the bin”

Is Uganda safe? I personally stopped reading the travel advise as it makes you scared for no reason. I feel the general travel advise given by western governments about developing countries is based on the 60’s and 70’s and not much has been updated. So i generally tell people to give Uganda a trial period of 3 months as you can either love it or hate or be in the middle as the advises based on individual persons are so biased and not a representation of the local populace and country or counties. above all they should see Uganda with the local lenses.

Kampala Expat

“Uganda is a beautiful country full of really nice and friendly people. Come and have a very enjoyable life experience. Most of the above comments are correct and good advice.”

We have just arrived in Kampala 3 weeks ago. We are still finding our way around, but we generally feel safe, my biggest issue is the traffic and crazy driving and the vendors at traffic lights. Bring a car seat. Also visit the house you want to rent at night… nightclubs are 7 days a week and no mercy on the volume. Lol. We are moving already 臘‍♀️. But it’s not a bad place, delicious fresh fruits and vegetables from the markets, people are very friendly too. I had the same concerns coming here with my kids (3 & 7).

Kampala Expat

Is Uganda safe? The most beautiful & the most crazy. We live in a pollution-free part of Kampala, no humidifiers necessary or air cleaners & I love it so much I haven’t been back to England since I’ve left. Cost of living is amazing & the ability to grow a business & also retire at the same time is amazing. Opportunities here are in abundance & just like anywhere in the world just have to focus on your child’s habit of learning outside of the education curriculum. I wish to be able to fall in love with this city all over again outside of when initially did when I first arrived ❤️ 

Kampala Expat

“Is Uganda safe? Kampala is relatively safe for a city of its size and nature. It has some rough edges, but I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous except for the roads.”

The muzungu: government travel advisories are always very cautious, since if anything goes wrong, your government will have a responsibility to protect you. Sometimes, I can’t recognise the country advisories are writing about! And they are always skewed against developing countries. It is always best to check with local people if you have any doubts about the security of a destination.

The muzungu writes one last thought: Uganda has a thriving expat community of many different nationalities. You will find plenty of support for you and your family. If you’re a tourist, rest assured no-one is going to advise you to come to Uganda and put you at any known risk. Keep asking questions, listen to – and take heed of – local advice and you will have a fantastic experience!

New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😎

How to photograph the mountain gorillas

Tips for taking good photos of gorillas

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
I hope you enjoy my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking – feel free to share it!

If you enjoy photographing wildlife, the visibility of the gorillas will be particularly important. You’ll probably be desperate to get great photos of this once in a lifetime experience to show family and friends back home.

In Uganda, it can be difficult to capture good photos under the dark canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, as the name suggests! If you are very lucky, you may encounter your gorilla family in a clearing.

In Rwanda, the vegetation tends to be more bamboo and short grass, and therefore can make for better photography, although the skies may still be grey overhead.

You will be on the move, so it’s best to get as organised as possible before you start your gorilla trek. If you hire a porter, which is highly recommended, then you can take a fair bit of kit with you.

Here are a few tips for photographing the gorillas:

If you’re taking photos using a standard point-and-shoot camera:

  • Make sure your camera battery is fully charged.
  • Always take extra memory cards.
  • Remember that flash photography is not allowed when you are with the gorillas. Make sure you have your camera manual with you so you know how to disable the automatic flash and automatic focus light functions.
  • Keep your camera and/or phone in a waterproof bag (such as a large Ziploc bag). Cue: you’re in the rainforest.
  • Take a zoom lens, wide angle lens and an in-between / fixed focal length lens.
  • It may be tricky to change lenses while the gorillas are moving around so take more than one camera body if you can.
  • Take fast film (400-1600 ASA) if you have a film camera.
  • Photographs of gorillas in the low light of the forest can appear underexposed. More experienced photographers recommend shooting at ISO 1250 or higher in the forest.

Professional filmmakers require permission and need to purchase filming permits in advance from Uganda Wildlife Authority (Uganda) or Rwanda Development Board (Rwanda).

Personal DVD recorders are allowed. It’s fairly easy to shoot videos of the mountain gorillas, as you will be close to them and they are generally slow movers.

Taking a photo with the gorillas is all part of the tracking experience. Ladies, remember to look in the mirror before you go off to see the gorillas. (My gorilla selfies are the worst!) LOL. I look so sleepy.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Are mountain gorillas endangered?

What is the conservation status of Mountain Gorillas?

Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are classified as ‘endangered’ on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species. It was only in 2018 that they were recategorised from the ‘critically endangered’ listing.

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
Have you read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking?

“Today, mountain gorillas are threatened, not due to a demand for their meat, or their infants, but due to a demand for the lush forest in which they live. For the poverty-stricken communities living around the gorilla habitat it is the forest that provides them with many of their basic human needs, and in the war torn areas of Democratic Republic of the Congo these needs are exaggerated.”

Gorilla conservation is the number one conservation priority in Uganda and Rwanda. Gorilla tourism has helped bring the mountain gorilla population back from the brink of extinction but threats to their survival are still very real. The biggest threats to the gorillas come from humans: illegal logging of the rainforest, poaching, encroachment of land for farming and the risk of disease transmission by humans. Additionally, political instability is still a major factor affecting the Congolese population of mountain gorillas in the DRC region of the Virunga Volcanoes.

“Active conservation [of gorillas] involves simply going out into the forest, on foot, day after day after day, attempting to capture poachers, killing—regretfully—poacher dogs, which spread rabies within the park, and cutting down traps.”

The gorilla population numbers in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from a shockingly low census record of just 254 gorillas in 1981 to an estimated 880 individuals in 2013. In 2018, we were delighted to learn the combined population has just passed the 1,000 mark.

Rangers continue to put their lives on the line every day to protect these gentle giants. Poaching of gorillas is thankfully very rare these days, however they can unwittingly become caught in snares set for other animals.

Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony every September is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face.

If you trek to see the mountain gorillas, you may be interested to know that a percentage of every gorilla permit fee goes to the communities living around the National Parks. The benefits of this are many: local communities receive a tangible benefit from tourism in remote parts of the country where there are few employment opportunities. This direct financial incentive encourages local people to support tourism. Entry into the national parks is strictly controlled. Before the national parks were gazetted, people entered the forest to collect firewood, burn charcoal, set snares and hunt. The promotion of farming outside the protected areas (vegetable gardens and goat rearing) and the development of alternatives to charcoal (fuel-efficient stoves and solar panels) are just some of the projects that conservation organisations promote in local opportunities.

The removal of the Batwa ‘Pygmies,’ the traditional forest dwellers, from the gorillas’ habitat was another step that the authorities took in the 1990s, when the gorilla population seemed to face certain extinction. The Batwa culture and way of life are unique. By visiting and supporting the Batwa projects (developed as alternative ways of living outside the forest that once supported them) you are directly supporting gorilla conservation.

In recent decades, many people from all over the world have dedicated their lives to the conservation of the mountain gorilla. In 1985, pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, was found dead in her home in Volcanoes National Park, believed to have been murdered by one of the poachers she fought in her protection of the gorillas. The mountain gorillas are better protected than ever, and their numbers rising slowly, but each year, rangers from Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo put their own lives in danger to protect these marvellous creatures. The ‘Galiwango, Life of a Gorilla’ animated film project pays tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of these rangers.

Which conservation organisations are working to protect the mountain gorillas?

For information on some of the conservation issues and initiatives in and around the national parks of Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo, visit:

Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH)

The Gorilla Organization (TGO) works with communities to protect the habitats of the Mountain Gorillas of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) manages the country’s National Parks. UWA rangers are constantly monitoring the whereabouts of Uganda’s gorillas.

Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGF)

Blog of the Gorilla Doctors Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project

International Gorilla Conservation Programme IGCP

Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund MGCF

Berggorilla & Regenwald Direckthilfe

Gorilla tracking tourism and numerous community tourism initiatives all help raise funds and awareness the plight of the endangered mountain gorillas.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Gorilla Tracking Rules [UPDATED]

What are the rules for tracking the Mountain Gorillas? Why do we need them?

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  • Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and Rwanda Development Board (RDB) have clear rules and regulations to protect both gorillas and the humans that track them.
  • The ranger guides will do their utmost to find the gorillas for you. These conservation rangers are in frequent radio contact, constantly monitoring the health, safety and whereabouts of the mountain gorilla populations.
  • Although no tourist has ever been seriously hurt by a habituated gorilla, you should always remember that an adult gorilla is several times stronger than a human, and can be disturbed by human activity, particularly if the gorillas are nursing infants or sick – or simply not in the mood to be disturbed!
  • The maximum group size for tracking the gorillas is 8 to 10 people per group
  • Gorilla trackers must be fit and in good health. Trekking in thick forest at heights over 2,000 metres, traversing steep mountains and ravines can be tough and frequently wet. Gorillas are susceptible to many human diseases, including COVID-19, diarrhoea, colds and the flu. You should not go gorilla tracking if you have any of these.
  • Your cough or sneeze can be lethal to a gorilla. Gorilla tracking was closed for many months at the start of the pandemic but has reopened. However, stricter regulations are in place to track all mountain gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC. For example, as soon as you enter the National Park you must wear a good quality facemask. You must keep the mask on at all times. When you find the gorillas, you will be asked to put on a clean facemask.
  • Gorillas can catch diseases from discarded human rubbish. Don’t litter or spit while in the gorillas’ habitat.
  • Do not touch the gorillas, even if they come close. They can be very curious.
  • Do not make any sudden movements.
  • If a gorilla charges, do not run away. Stay calm. Slowly crouch down and avoid direct eye contact, until the gorilla moves away in its own time.
  • Leave a distance of at least ten metres between you and the gorillas – although the gorillas do not always stick to this rule! If the gorillas start moving towards you, the rangers may advise you to move backwards away from them. (Pre-pandemic, experts said we should keep seven metres distance; this has been upwardly revised to 10 metres).
  • Do not surround the gorillas. View them from a distance and in groups.
  • One hour is allowed with the gorillas.
  • Personal DVD recorders are allowed. Professional filmmakers need to purchase filming permits in advance from UWA or RDB.
  • If you need to go to the toilet while you are in the forest, tell your guide, and they will dig a hole for you. Make sure you cover the hole afterwards to prevent possible transfer of disease to the gorilla population.
  • You will be given a list of the Gorilla Tracking Rules with your tracking permit and reminded of them again on the morning of your gorilla trek.
  • Flash photography is not allowed. It can be difficult to capture good photos of the gorillas under the dark canopy of the rainforest. If you have a film camera, fast film (400-1600 ASA) is useful.

For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Packing list for tracking gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda

What equipment do I need to bring to track the gorillas? What clothes should I wear?

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Since day porters are very affordable, you can pack all the recommended gorilla tracking clothing, equipment and water, without having to worry about how you will carry it.

Here’s my recommended packing list for tracking the gorillas:

  • Walking boots or shoes (boots are better because they have better grip and support your ankles on hilly terrain)
  • Breathable waterproof jacket and trousers. Even if it doesn’t rain, the ground and vegetation are generally wet. Wearing waterproof trousers means you can kneel to get gorilla photos or slide down slippery slopes.
  • Long-sleeved shirt (to protect yourself from tree branches, the sun and insects)
  • Gaiters (or long socks) to tuck long trousers into (to correct legs from scratches and keep insects out)
  • A fleece or light wool sweater
  • Sunglasses, sunscreen and sunhat
  • Gloves to grip the vegetation (dime store or ‘pound shop’ gardening gloves are perfect!)
  • Camera equipment
  • A walking pole. If you don’t have one, I highly recommend taking up the offer of a walking pole or stick. Sometimes the lodge provides them, other times, the guide may cut one for you from bamboo. Even one pole can be a big help for climbing up and easing yourself back down steep or muddy hills
  • Include plenty of water. Hydration is very important. Your lodge should provide you with a packed lunch and drinking water. (Don’t be afraid to ask for more than one bottle!)
  • Tips (at your discretion) for your rangers and porter
  • Lastly and most importantly: don’t forget to take your gorilla trekking permit and your passport (or the identification you used when reserving your permit). You will need to show your ID at the pre-tracking briefing.
  • Pack all of this in a small backpack

Mornings in the mountains can be cool and nights can be surprisngly cold. You will probably experience mist and quite possibly rain while you are tracking the gorillas. It can also get quite hot, from the sun and/or the hiking uphill. Layered clothing is recommended, ideally the ‘wick-away’ moisture type.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the 
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure! [UPDATED]

Gorilla tracking – a typical day: what to expect

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I shall never forget my first encounter with gorillas. Sound preceded sight. Odor preceded sound in the form of an overwhelming, musky-barnyard, humanlike scent. The air was suddenly rent by a high-pitched series of screams followed by the rhythmic rondo of sharp pok-pok chestbeats from a great silverbacked male obscured behind what seemed an impenetrable wall of vegetation.

Dian Fossey in Gorillas in the Mist (1983) describing her 1963 trip to Kabara. (The screams and chest-beating were of alarm, not ferocity.)

Part of the excitement of tracking the gorillas is wondering exactly where you will find them! As their name suggests, Mountain gorillas live at high altitude. The dense jungle, altitude and muddy terrain can be tiring and some visitors may find the tracking very challenging. Keep your own pace and drink plenty of water. Avoid getting dehydrated.

After early breakfast, your lodge should provide you with a packed lunch and plenty of drinking water. (Check that the packed lunch has been organised when you retire to bed the night before you track). Even if the weather looks fine before you embark on your hike, the higher you get, the more it rains (so don’t forget your rain gear!)

The once in a lifetime gorilla tracking experience starts with an early morning briefing, around 7.30 to 8 AM depending where you are tracking. You will be reminded of the Gorilla Trekking Rules, in place to protect the gorillas and their precious habitat. One of the main rules is that if you are feeling ill, you are obliged to advise the authorities. They will decide whether you are healthy enough to trek. Remember that the health of the critically endangered gorillas is more important than your holiday: a cold or the flu can be fatal to a gorilla.

After your briefing, you will have the opportunity to hire a porter for the day. Highly recommended!

Although one family is sometimes found very near to the start of the gorilla tracking in Uganda, generally you will walk for an hour or more before you find the gorillas. The countryside is incredibly beautiful. For me, the trek is a wonderful part of the whole experience.

Radio contact between the wildlife rangers and information from the previous day’s gorilla sightings make it possible for the rangers to guide you to the right place to find the gorillas.

As you come within range, the rangers will ask you to leave your bags and non-essentials so you can approach the gorillas more closely, cameras at the ready. Take time to simply enjoy the presence of these amazing animals. Do come out from behind the camera lens occasionally.

Immediately I was struck by the physical magnificence of the huge jet-black bodies blended against the green palette wash of the thick forest foliage.

Dian Fossey, Gorillas in the Mist

You will spend an hour with the gorillas, during which time they may be munching on bamboo, hanging from the trees above your head, grooming each other, suckling their babies, playing, sleeping, farting or even having sex! You just never know what to expect.

One of the most important Gorilla Trekking Rules is to keep a distance of seven metres from the gorillas. There’s no guarantee that the gorillas will stick to this however! You will often move around the forest while you are with them. If they approach you, the rangers will ask you to step back. Equally if they walk into the forest, you may be allowed to follow them a little way. Sometimes you will see the gorillas in a light clearing. At other times they will be in dark forest. You need to bear this in mind if you’re planning to take a lot of photos. Bring fast film, if you’re shooting film. Regardless of what type of camera you have, you must always make sure the flash is switched off.

The route back to the park headquarters is often shorter, although some tracks may involve you climbing back uphill in places.

Back at base in Uganda, you will be given your gorilla trekking certificate. Bragging rights, yeah!

(Rwanda used to issue paper certificates too and may offer some similar recognition again in the future. In 2018, RDB were giving trackers beautiful presentation boxes of tea or coffee – Rwandese of course).

The UWA and RDB conservation ranger guides are very knowledgeable and will take good care of you while you are in the forest. These ranger guys (and occasionally girls) will help you negotiate sometimes steep and often muddy ground too. Whether you have questions about the gorillas, or about the wildlife, birds and plants of the forest, feel free to ask. The guides know each gorilla family intimately and can tell you the names and habits of each family member. There is so much to learn about these fascinating and humble primates.

Tips for the rangers are discretionary but very much appreciated. Estimate $15-20 per tracker/ranger. Tips should be in small US dollar bills (dated post-2006) or local currency (Uganda shillings or Rwandese francs, depending on which country you are trekking in).

What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure. How your day starts in Uganda

Gorilla tracking registration and briefing take place at the Uganda Wildlife Authority park offices from 7.45 am and tracking usually starts at 8.30 am. It is here that you will be given the name of the specific gorilla family you are tracking. Some gorilla families are easier to track than others; it all depends at what altitude they range, or what distance they cover during the day. It normally takes 1 to 3 hours tracking time (each way) to find your gorilla family. If you’re fit, pushing through the dense jungle of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, with a ranger hacking through the occasional branch with his machete in front of you, can be quite an adventure! I LOVE IT!

What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure. How your day starts in Rwanda

Tea and coffee are provided from around 7.00 am for gorilla tracking visitors assembled in Kinigi, where entertainment was once provided by the traditional Intore dancers from SACOLA (Sabyinyo Community Livelihoods Association). In 2018, entertainment was provided by a large TV screen showing happy trackers. (Bring back the dancers, I say!)

In Rwanda, your gorilla family will be assigned to you at the early morning briefing. The fitter (and more willing!) you are, the more likely you are to be allocated a gorilla family that involves a longer trek. The rangers assess you according to your health, general fitness, age and interests.

You can opt for a short hike (of between 30 minutes to an hour), a medium one (from one hour to three hours) or a longer hike to the large Susa group, which may take the whole day.

Gorilla tracking in Rwanda generally starts with a 45 minute walk up gently sloping farmland. The backdrop of the volcanoes is spectacular and the air is pure. As you approach the park entrance, the ground becomes steeper and thick with bamboo.

Depending on the group you are with, your total tracking time will take 30 minutes to four hours (in either direction). Generally, gorilla tracking is less strenuous in Rwanda than in Uganda.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.