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Pig on a boda

There’s nothing like waking in your own bed except that I lift my head off the pillow and felt violently sick. The sensation carries on throughout the day. Looking up makes me feel woozy and I almost fall over, more than once. I blame the potholed road for upsetting my sense of balance.

I slept early. The drive from Kampala took its toll on me this week. Large sections of the road to Fort Portal are being repaired and we drove in the heat of the day. The journey passes quickly if you chat but my friend’s thoughts were elsewhere.

The journey’s highlight was the sunset boda boda ride through Kiko tea plantation before Fort Portal. It’s another world in there: the lurid bright green of the tea bushes contrasts with the winding dusty roads, (we took more than one wrong turning) but the cut through Kiko got us through Kibale Forest before darkness fell. Baboons were still at their vigil on either side of the road. Forest raindrops caught us as we sloped down the steep slippery track towards my home at Sunbird Hill.

tea plantation. Kibale Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu blog
tea plantation between Kibale Forest and Fort Portal Uganda. PHOTO Diary of a Muzungu blog

Waiting for my boda at the Kiko turn-off, I watched three cows amble towards the busy main road. A young man threw a stone at one. It turned in the other direction. He picked up a branch and ran towards them. It was a comical sight to watch him sprinting after the cows, his white gumboots flashing as he lifted one leg after the other! After hundred metres, the cows now safely away from the main road, he turned to walk back to the laughing boda drivers.

A third boda boda pulled up with three individuals on it, one of them being a tightly trussed-up pig! My heart went out to this poor little piggy yet I admired the deft way the animal was attached to the boda. (It’s amazing what you can do with a bit of string if you put your mind to it!)

Pig on a boda. PHOTO by me Charlotte Beauvoisin

I had not wanted to travel far from my home on the edge of Kibale Forest, but work commitments beckoned. I felt I put life on hold by leaving so soon… and how long am I back here for this time?

Back home, as the kids unpacked sacks of beans and posho from the vehicle, Hope said “Auntie Charlotte, I have a surprise for you” as she passed me a refrigerated plastic container. I removed the lid, intrigued. Was it edible?

MAWAY!

“I assume it’s dead… ?”

The Rhinoceros Viper is a beautiful but venomous beast. I’m not sure how this specimen has been donated to our collection but it’s beautifully preserved and will make fascinating conversations for visitors and guides at Sunbird Hill.

Whenever we find reptilian roadkill, we slam on the brakes and pick up the remains. Our freezer is full of snakes (and beetles)!

Do you like my stories? Tell me what you think!

Latest health measures at Entebbe International Airport, Uganda [UPDATED]

This page is updated regularly and supercedes all previously published Uganda travel information. Here we cover information relating to COVID-19 and Yellow Fever screening at Uganda’s Entebbe International Airport and share updates about the airport itself.

COVID-19 in Uganda – summary

UPDATE June 19th 2023: I have been in/out of Entebbe Airport this month and at no point did I hear the dreaded words “COVID” “PCR” or “certificate” mentioned. HOORAY. I appreciate the blog reader who emailed to share that “unvaccinated travellers are no longer required to have a negative PCR test result for entry into Uganda since 7 March.”

Arrivals at Entebbe Airport

Travelers to Uganda are recommended to check with their airlines regarding COVID-19 requirements or risk being denied boarding. The advice varies from airline to airline.

The arrivals process at Entebbe International Airport follows this order:

  • Sanitise hands [now optional].
  • Have documents checked:
  • Yellow Fever certificate [mine wasn’t checked last week].
  • Pass through immigration. (If you are a tourist, it’s imperative that you apply for your Uganda tourist visa online in advance. Some airlines will not allow you to board without your visa approval letter. ADVICE STILL APPLIES JUNE 2023). I have written extensively about Uganda tourist visas and East Africa Tourist Visas and frequently answer visa-related enquiries.
  • Collect your checked-in luggage.
  • If you need an ATM or Forex (foreign exchange), you can access both by the baggage carousel.
  • Pass luggage (including cabin bags) through scanner.
  • If you are a tourist, you may be met by a representative of Uganda Tourism Board. UTB have a tourist information desk and seating just past the baggage collection area. UTB staff are on hand to make phone calls and order taxis, for example. This service is available for all tourists, 24 hours a day, even for those who travel independently. This initiative is spearheaded by Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board.
  • Entebbe Airport has free WiFi.
  • Exit airport.
  • Enjoy fabulous Ugandan weather!
Passengers are advised to arrive at Entebbe Airport three hours before departure due to construction works. Uganda Civil Aviation Authority, December 2022
Passengers are advised to arrive at Entebbe Airport three hours before departure due to construction works. Uganda Civil Aviation Authority, December 2022

Departures at Entebbe Airport

  • Travelers departing Entebbe International Airport are required to know, understand, and interpret COVID-19 requirements of both the country they are travelling to and the airline they are flying with.
  • The muzungu adds: I advise having a print-out of your COVID-19 vaccination / negative COVID PCR certificate [as per destination you are heading to]. Print facilities are available at the airport but you will need to allow extra time to go to lower ground floor of arrivals.
new COVID-19 public health measures Uganda December 2022
new COVID-19 public health measures Uganda December 2022

December 2 2022: President Museveni announced new directives recommended by Uganda’s National Taskforce on COVID-19. In summary these state that: everyone who attends “public meetings and gatherings in public places” or who wants “to access government and private offices” must have certificates proving full doses plus a booster or 24 hour PCR negative test for unvaccinated / partially vaccinated; indoor & outdoor mask mandates reinstated [I really don’t know what that means!] and “handshaking and hugging remain prohibited,” apparently.

Entebbe Airport Uganda. COVID-19 testing 2021. Diary of a Muzungu
Entebbe Airport Uganda. COVID-19 testing 2021. Diary of a Muzungu

The muzungu adds: Uganda is famously big on rules and poor on implementation but these are the rules, so be prepared to show your certificate(s) and/or wear a mask.

Yellow Fever in Uganda – summary

Yellow Fever vaccinations are now valid for life, says the World Health Organization, so no boosters are needed. You can just show a copy of your certificate on your phone on arrival at Entebbe. No Yellow Fever certificate? You can have the jab at Entebbe Airport. This costs $40 (however, it takes ten days to take effect so do have the injection before you enter Uganda, if you can).

That said, there’s almost no risk of getting Yellow Fever. There was a handful of suspected infections in early 2022 but the minor outbreak was quickly contained.

Ebola in Uganda – summary

Lastly, on January 11 2023 (42 days without new infections) the World Health Organization has declared “Uganda Ebola outbreak finished.” Thank you to the health workers, Ugandan residents, government and donors who worked so hard to free the country of the virus.

Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!] just process this page.

Are you planning to travel to Uganda soon? Feel free to contact me directly if you have any travel questions.

The Travel Directory has a list of tour operators who can help you plan a trip.

I regularly travel through Entebbe Airport. I write about my experience at arrivals and about the check-in experience at Entebbe Airport, both in 2021. However, as stated above, this page supercedes all previously published Uganda travel information.

Clear? Confused? Just send me a message.

Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]

Kampala expats share their experiences and advice about moving to Uganda with a young family. (It’s mostly very positive!)

I regularly receive questions about moving to work in Uganda and about expat life in Kampala. There are so many great things to say about Uganda but visiting for a couple of weeks isn’t the same as living here. If you’re travelling to the country on safari, or to track the gorillas, you may bypass the capital city entirely, but I love Kampala! It may be intense but the buzz can be addictive.

Is Uganda safe to visit? FOR COMMENTS ON LATEST NEWS, scroll down to the post comments

Below is a typical question I received via WhatsApp recently, in response to my popular post “Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats.” My posts have hundreds of questions from readers – and I reply to them all – however, I thought it would be useful to share answers to this common question. Names have been withheld but all comments are genuine.

“I am moving to Kampala in a few months with my wife and our 3 year old daughter. Of course the worst thing you can do is Google ‘is Uganda safe?’ Lots of words like terrorism and don’t travel. Can you give any info or advice on safety for a young family. I have been to Angola and Uganda for short periods by myself and must admit I felt very comfortable in Kampala. Are the current precautions in place by other governments just that or are there real issues ongoing? Thank you in advance.”

I have my own views and experiences (since moving here in 2009) but was interested in what the expat community would advise. Here are some of their comments.

Is Uganda safe? Uganda is very safe in my opinion. Crowded areas are – as everywhere in the world – places where you’ve to pay more attention but Ugandans are very homely and friendly. For me the most dangerous thing is the road in the sense of accidents.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree. Traffic and road safety are likely to be the biggest daily concern.

Crowded places are safer than empty streets in terms of violent crime, though you might get your pockets picked 

Kampala Expat

One expat added “I wouldn’t recommend that women walk alone at night.”

In my humble opinion the biggest threats are the night clubs and overnight church services… and traffic. Other than that, it’s a great place to live and there is plenty for kids to do. The key in Kampala at least is to live close to work and school.

Kampala Expat
rush hour boda boda motorbikes Jinja Road Kampala. PHOTO Diary of a Muzungu
Rush hour at Jinja Road Kampala. Boda boda motorbikes. PHOTO by Diary of a Muzungu

Is Uganda safe? Yes, road safety and electronic-device-thefts are the two primary concerns. Terrorism is no more a threat here than in the countries which issue the warnings – indeed is probably even less of a concern here – but is a possibility anywhere in the world, sadly. I feel like my children are safe from threat of kidnapping and such. Now the trash burning and air quality in Kampala are pretty bad. If they have any lung issues (allergies, asthma, etc.) that’s something to consider. I’m personally having health issues because of it.

Kampala Expat

Another person agreed that “The overall air quality in Kampala is bad. Wish someone had told me so I could have made a decision about it beforehand.”

I find Uganda massively child friendly having moved here from London 2 years ago. We were here for the bombs which were scary but didn’t feel like they directly targeted us. You can be in the wrong place at the wrong time but more of that kind of thing has happened in my home city than here so I guess it depends where you are coming from. My main concerns here for the kids are them getting seriously sick (not happened as yet), traffic accidents outside of Kampala as traffic is slow moving in the city so unlikely to hurt a child in a car.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree the bombings were very scary but I worked in London when we had bombs on the buses and Tube… It’s a reminder that terrorism can strike anywhere…

A mother agreed that “My kids have a much more carefree existence here in Uganda than in London.”

Thanks to all of you for the unbiased review of Uganda. Life in Uganda can be quite addictive. Once in you may find it hard to leave.

Kampala Expat

“Best practice is to forward government travel advisories straight to the bin”

Is Uganda safe? I personally stopped reading the travel advise as it makes you scared for no reason. I feel the general travel advise given by western governments about developing countries is based on the 60’s and 70’s and not much has been updated. So i generally tell people to give Uganda a trial period of 3 months as you can either love it or hate or be in the middle as the advises based on individual persons are so biased and not a representation of the local populace and country or counties. above all they should see Uganda with the local lenses.

Kampala Expat

“Uganda is a beautiful country full of really nice and friendly people. Come and have a very enjoyable life experience. Most of the above comments are correct and good advice.”

We have just arrived in Kampala 3 weeks ago. We are still finding our way around, but we generally feel safe, my biggest issue is the traffic and crazy driving and the vendors at traffic lights. Bring a car seat. Also visit the house you want to rent at night… nightclubs are 7 days a week and no mercy on the volume. Lol. We are moving already 臘‍♀️. But it’s not a bad place, delicious fresh fruits and vegetables from the markets, people are very friendly too. I had the same concerns coming here with my kids (3 & 7).

Kampala Expat

Is Uganda safe? The most beautiful & the most crazy. We live in a pollution-free part of Kampala, no humidifiers necessary or air cleaners & I love it so much I haven’t been back to England since I’ve left. Cost of living is amazing & the ability to grow a business & also retire at the same time is amazing. Opportunities here are in abundance & just like anywhere in the world just have to focus on your child’s habit of learning outside of the education curriculum. I wish to be able to fall in love with this city all over again outside of when initially did when I first arrived ❤️ 

Kampala Expat

“Is Uganda safe? Kampala is relatively safe for a city of its size and nature. It has some rough edges, but I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous except for the roads.”

The muzungu: government travel advisories are always very cautious, since if anything goes wrong, your government will have a responsibility to protect you. Sometimes, I can’t recognise the country advisories are writing about! And they are always skewed against developing countries. It is always best to check with local people if you have any doubts about the security of a destination.

The muzungu writes one last thought: Uganda has a thriving expat community of many different nationalities. You will find plenty of support for you and your family. If you’re a tourist, rest assured no-one is going to advise you to come to Uganda and put you at any known risk. Keep asking questions, listen to – and take heed of – local advice and you will have a fantastic experience!

New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😎

How to make international calls from Uganda [UPDATED]

In this blog post I share my personal tips on Ugandan mobile phone and internet providers, where to find free WiFi, SIM card registration and how to send money using mobile phone apps.

Making an international phone call from Uganda can be pretty straightforward. It can also be a right pain in the kabina (bottom).

When I first arrived in Uganda as a volunteer, I very rarely called home. For some reason outbound phone calls from the UK to Uganda were easier. Skype video calls just didn’t work.

Making a Skype call from Uganda circa 2009

A Skype conversation would go something like this:

Caller: Hi

The muzungu: Hi

Caller: How are you?

The muzungu: I’m fine. How are you?

Caller: I’m sorry, what are you saying? You’re breaking up a bit. Can you say that again?

The muzungu: I can hear you. I’m fine, how are you?

Caller: I can’t really hear you, there’s a bit of an echo on the line, I don’t think I can cope with this.

The muzungu: [Sigh…]

I think to myself: “This conversation is starting the same as the last one, and the one before that. Can we move on and have an actual conversation?”

… Call drops off…

The average conversation lasted for four minutes. I would redial and we would have a two-minute chat. The whole conversation proceeded in two-minute chunks, before one or both of us just gave up.

Muzungu using laptop
Trying to call home. Julia took this cheeky shot one morning – you may not be able to tell, but I was actually dressed!

How to make international calls from Uganda using your mobile phone

Calling directly from your mobile phone in Uganda is far cheaper than it used to be. In fact, sometimes it is cheaper to call than to send a SMS. Mobile phone companies offer call bundles; pre-paid international call bundles are very affordable and can be loaded directly from your Ugandan-registered SIM card. Skype too is better, thanks to improved internet speeds; just don’t expect the video to always work. WhatsApp has transformed connectivity and Ugandans have embraced using Zoom, Google Meet and other communication apps. Rainy weather can affect the quality of the internet (the call quality can also be affected by someone cutting through the internet cable under the sea!)

The best-known providers are Airtel and MTN, and many of us have two phones or dual SIM phones. Other providers include Lyca Mobile, Tangerine, Zuku and Roke Telecom. Note that Africell, Smile, Vodafone and Zain no longer exist and the future of government-owned UTL is unclear (January 2023). It’s very rare to have a home landline phone in Uganda. Airtime can be purchased in tiny amounts and just about anywhere.

How do you pay using your phone if you don’t have a Ugandan bank account?

Mobile money ‘M sente’ has revolutionised airtime and bill payments. Kenya Safaricom led the world in developing M-Pesa, the first solution for sending money and airtime and paying bills via your mobile phone. I rely on mobile money apps to pay my bills. They are robust, reliable, secure and widely accepted. Buy a local SIM card and you can load local currency to buy goods and services and send money to friends, family and colleagues. The two most common providers are MTN and Airtel.

mobile phone airtime vendor
How to call home from Uganda. You can buy airtime on every street corner in Uganda. In 2023, this kind of ‘scratch card’ has been replaced by street kiosks where money or airtime are added to your account digitally by a vendor

My relationship with MTN

I once spent an afternoon hidden in an airtime vendor’s shack in downtown Kampala, sheltering from an immense thunderstorm. As rain battered the roof, I had an illuminating conversation “Grasshoppers – nsenene: do you eat them or smoke them?”

And then of course there’s “MTN Sunday.” What is that all about? Without fail, every Sunday for several years, I lose contact with everyone. Texts disappear or arrive a day and half later, thus “would you like to meet for Sunday lunch?” has to be organised a day or two in advance. If Sunday is maintenance day, why have I never received a SMS telling me so? (I first wrote this post in 2013 – it was still true in 2018 – and at the end of 2023, I still had issues with my MTN line on Sundays!)

So how does the muzungu call abroad now?

Video Skyping works like a dream now with 4G. My sister prefers FaceTime and mum calls via WhatsApp. I can’t believe how easy it is to call internationally from Kampala now!

How can you access internet on your phone in Uganda?

Ugandan SIM cards can be bought very cheaply everywhere, whether at the exit of Entebbe Airport or at vendor kiosks everywhere. Show your passport to register the SIM card. You can also buy a portable wireless MiFi (some tour operators provide these for guests who want internet accesss while on safari).

You’ll find free WiFi at Entebbe Airport and in most hotels, cafes and restaurants in Kampala and in major towns and popular tourist destinations.

Do you have any tips on how to call internationally from Uganda?

… And if you have other travel tips or advice for expats in Uganda, please comment here or contact the Muzungu. I love hearing from you!

An American asks: should we reconsider travel because of Ebola?

A tourist from the United States asked: “should we reconsider travel to Uganda because of Ebola?” Simple answer? The World Health Organization declared the Ebola outbreak finished after 42 days without any new infections.

Official confirmation from World Health Organization that Uganda Ebola outbreak is over. HOORAY. January 2023

The Muzungu writes: I often receive questions from visitors to Uganda. Here’s a copy of an email exchange I had in November 2022 with David in the United States. The Ebola outbreak is completely behind us now but I leave this post here simply for historical purposes.



Subject: Travel enquiry

I wanted to travel to Uganda this December, but the State Department says that because of ebola, we should reconsider travel to Uganda. Additionally, that if we do travel, we should expect flights to be cancelled. Finally, on arrival, we have to be taken to [New York (JFK), Newark (EWR), Atlanta (ATL), Chicago (ORD) or Washington (IAD)] designated airports for more screening before being released.

How is the situation? Have you heard of any flight cancellations from Uganda to the U.S because of ebola?

Thank you. Happy Thanksgiving.


The Muzungu replies:

Good morning David. Thanks for your message.

There is no reason why you should alter your travel plans. It’s most likely that you will go directly from Entebbe Airport to the National Parks and there are no reported cases in any of those areas.

Government information I saw yesterday says that we have had no new cases in 10 days. We have detailed contact tracing in place, based on decades of experience managing disease outbreak. World Health Organization, CDC (Center for Disease Control) and others are part of that process.

Most people are continuing to travel as normal. A few people have cancelled trips and a few people have postponed.

Government advisories are always extremely cautious. We are pretty disturbed by how over the top the US / CDC are on this one. They are based on absolute worst case scenarios. We who live in Uganda feel the situation is under control.

If you have any more questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. I answer questions all the time from potential travelers.


Dear Charlotte

Thank you so much for your detailed and informative response. I couldn’t have asked for anything more. I was really scared after reading from the State Department and the CDC [statement stated October 6 2022, link above]. Last thing you want is to be labelled as an ebola carrier.

If you say it is safe to go from the airport to the national parks, then I will talk to my friends so we can go from there. I hope you don’t mind if I share this email with my group with whom I am meant to travel. I want them to see it for themselves. They were all freaked out!

Thx again for the help Charlotte.

The Muzungu writes:

We’re all yearning to travel again post-pandemic so the last thing anyone wants to think about is Ebola…! Thankfully, the outbreak should soon pass.

It may be too early to celebrate any successes, but overall, I have been briefed that the picture is good. As I indicated to you earlier, Ebola is a contact disease, unlike coronavirus which is airborne, hence much easier to control, despite its devastating nature.

President Yoweri Museveni, November 26 2022

I regularly update several blogs, the most important being Latest news from Entebbe Airport. Safe travels! And don’t hesitate to message me if you need a little reassurance from a Ugandan resident like me.

MASH-tastic! The muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi [UPDATED]

Taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Try MASH! Bus travel tips and visa info.

The brilliant East Africa Tourist Visa and Interstate Pass mean that travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda is easier than ever for nationals and has become easier and cheaper for tourists and expats too. Cue: a lot more travel around the three countries for this Muzungu! I’ve taken the MASH bus between Kampala and Nairobi a few times now, and can recommend it. [NOTE this blog post was updated in February 2023. We tried calling various advertised numbers, but failed to get through].

East Africa Interstate Pass Uganda Kenya Rwanda
The Interstate Pass allows visa-free travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda for nationals and expats with work permits

Traveling from Kampala to Kigali? Then read what happened when I traveled by bus with Jaguar Executive Coaches.

Overall, the Kampala / Nairobi MASH bus service has been excellent. I hardly felt the dreaded bump, bump, bump of the ‘rumble strips’ and managed to sleep most of the journey.  Or shall I say, I fell asleep / woke up / fell asleep / woke up…  over and over again.

We liked the idea of having a toilet on the bus. If it had been working, that would have been even better! According to the driver, “it is women’s fault that the toilets do not work.” Hmmm… surely they could have fixed it though?

The MASH system is well organised and departs – on time – from the relative calm of the National Theatre, making it a far less hectic experience than going to downtown Kampala bus parks with all their congestion and pickpockets. In Nairobi, however, the bus departs from the equally crazy River Road. Have your wits about you here, as lots of guys will come running at you trying to sell you a cab fair / give you unwanted directions, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve just woken up! Don’t rush to get off the bus; pace yourself and check you have all your belongings first.

mash-bus-kampala-to-nairobi-river-road
The MASH bus stop in Nairobi is downtown in River Road

Back outside the National Theatre in Kampala, an hour before the agreed departure time, a lady called us over to a table in front of our bus where she checked our tickets and passports. Next to her, a very friendly guy checked the contents of all our bags. Another three men in bright orange overalls loaded bags and boxes into the bus. I was asked to remove the padlock from my bag, which obviously I did not want to do. I was told that it was necessary for the security check at the border. I removed a couple of valuables that I’d put in my big bag, and just hoped that everything else would be safe. It was.

The MASH bus was clean. The seatbelt worked, as did the single power socket on the wall next to me. I chose to sit in the second class ‘executive’ section, just a few seats from the front. It had a decent amount of legroom and a reclining seat.  My friends in the VIP seats, directly behind the driver, had even more legroom, plus they were allowed to have their big bags with them.

Every bus passenger was handed a small packet of biscuits and a packet of sugary ‘juice.’ My experience of cross-border bus journeys in East Africa is to avoid drinking at all costs, as you can never be sure the driver will stop when you need him to! However, on the MASH bus, we had three ‘comfort breaks’ before we arrived in Nairobi. It’s a “short break for a short call” and these guys do not hang around, believe me.

The driver put on some loud music for our uneventful drive to the border.

Entering Kenya later that night, one of the immigration officials growled a demand to see my Yellow Fever certificate. Luckily I had a photograph of it on my phone.

mash-bus-kampala-to-nairobi-lake-elementaita-caldera
If you travel between the two East African capitals during the day, you get to see the beautiful countryside of Lake Elementaita and the area’s volcanic calderas

My friend Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey between Kampala and Nairobi. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat! “You snooze, you lose” as she likes to tell me… Lol.

mash-bus-kampala-to-nairobi-lake-elementaita-view
Early morning view of Lake Elementaita – photo from my bus window 🙂

According to Wikipedia, “Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dryness and dustiness of the area, especially between January and March. In the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elmenteita is between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru. The major Nairobi – Nakuru highway (A104 road) runs along the nearby escarpment affording motorists a spectacular vista towards the lake. Today the lake is a protected area due to its birdlife. Elementeita – together with Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria – has been named a heritage site by UNESCO.” (In 2019 I finally went on safari in Lake Elmenteita – I am still thrilled at the large numbers of flamingos I saw that weekend! The horse ride along the lakeshore was spectacular).

Travel tips for taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi

NOTE: I don’t guarantee all info is correct. You should check prices, departure times yourself. This is a personal account based on my own experience.

  • MASH buses leave on time.
  • The MASH booking office in Kampala is in Dewinton Road opposite the National Theatre. 
  • In Uganda, you can use MTN mobile money to purchase your ticket. Tel +256 (0)774 082853 is the MTN Mobile Money number registered to Mash Bus Services. I used this myself. I first called the booking office to reserve my seat numbers; confirmed my payment using mobile money; then made a second phone call to check they had seen my payment.
  • The MASH booking office in Nairobi is in River Road. Their official number is +254 733 623260. In Kenya, you can also book your bus tickets and reserve your seat online and pay by Safaricom’s M-Pesa. (Paybill number 857988). This worked well too.
  • To double check ticket prices and times, check out the MASH East Africa website or visit one of their offices.
  • Please don’t message me – I don’t work for Mash, I’m just a customer like you 😎
MASH bus Nairobi booking office, River Road
MASH bus Nairobi booking office, River Road

Bus departure times from Kampala and Nairobi

(Please get there early: we’ve called several times to check timings and prices and the info given is inconsistent). Ticket classes are: VIP, business class and ordinary (availability depends on whether you get MASH POA or MASH COOL).

Kampala to Nairobi

At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the National Theatre.

Nairobi to Kampala

At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the MASH office in River Road.

MASH bus ticket Kampala to Nairobi. Diary of a Muzungu
MASH bus ticket Kampala to Nairobi

MASH Cool is the air-conditioned bus. (MASH POA can get a bit sweaty!) I liked MASH Cool but you will need a blanket (or shuka) if you take the overnight bus. The MASH Cool bus has curtains too.

  • Make sure you have your Yellow Fever and COVID-19 vaccination certificates (or a negative PCR test).
  • Keep photographs of your passport and other important travel documents (bus ticket and Yellow Fever Certificate) on your phone.
  • Although the bus does have power sockets, in my experience, they don’t always work. Take a spare battery pack for long journeys so you can access digital documents any time.
  • Nationals of Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya just have to show a passport or national ID and are given a temporary Interstate Pass. Ugandans who do not have passports are advised to get a temporary travel document. Cost 10k UGX. If you’re in Kampala, you can get one issued at Port Bell (or you can buy it at the border).
  • Expats with work permits can get an Interstate Pass at the border as well. There is no form to fill in (just the standard arrivals form) and there is no cost. Yay!
  • If you need a visa, you are supposed to apply online in advance, whether it’s for a single country visa or an East Africa Tourist Visa. However, all visas appear to be available in person at a border (except EATV, you’ll need to read my blog about that one).

    Check out the blogs I’ve written about tourist visas

  • Uganda – NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online
  • East Africa – What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide
  • Rwanda – Rwanda announces all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival
  • The set-up at the Kenya / Uganda border has changed and you now leave one country / enter another within the same building. Previously, you had to get your exit visa from one country and then walk across the border before getting your entry visa into the next country. I found the new system confusing and had apparently entered Kenya illegally! Apparently I did not have one of the required passport stamps, even though I had been processed by three different people at immigration.
mash bus kampala to nairobi muzungu selfie
Early morning selfie of the muzungu. The best neck rest cushion ever from Definition Africa in Kampala
  • The MASH ticket says “Smoking, alcohol, chewing miraa is prohibited. Maximum luggage limit is 15 KG, any extra weight will be charged. Passengers are warned not to take any foodstuff offered by stranger.” In the past there were incidences of bus passengers being drugged and robbed (not on any particular route or with any particular bus company).
  • In addition to the Uganda / Kenya route, MASH also operate to major towns across Kenya.
  • Dreamline have also been recommended to me.

Have you taken the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Which operator do you recommend?

Travel to Rwanda during COVID-19: step by step guide

How to prepare for travel to Rwanda during the COVID-19 pandemic

This article is for everyone who is planning to travel to Rwanda in 2021, whether ‘arriving, transferring, transiting or departing.’ I am updating this post regularly with traveller feedback, answers to Frequently Asked Questions about COVID-19 (Coronavirus), information from tour operators and guides in Rwanda and the Rwanda Development Board. Travel restrictions and protocols are subject to constant change so please post any questions in the comments or message the Muzungu directly for the latest Rwanda travel advice.

Rwanda recorded its first confirmed case of COVID-19 on March 14, 2020. The City of Kigali was in lockdown in 2021 but has reopened with numerous Standard Operating Procedures in place. Scroll down to the comments for links to latest lockdown news for Rwanda

Planning a trip to Uganda? For travel advice on similar topics, read Entebbe International Airport Uganda: travel in the new normal. Planning a trip to Kenya? Read Kenya still open to international tourists.

Kigali International Airport, Rwanda’s main airport, is open

With the world set to continue life in the ‘new normal,’ the Rwandan capital’s airport at Kanombe is operating again. Once you arrive at Kigali International Airport, you’ll go through a new set of procedures as you enter ‘the land of a thousand hills.’ I have tried to list the new requirements in chronological order.

With so many changes, it is good to know that visa on arrival remains available for all visitors to Rwanda.

Kigali city view from Marriott Hotel. Rwanda
Kigali city view from Marriott Hotel. Rwanda

How to prepare for travel to Rwanda during the pandemic

  • Do you need a negative COVID-19 test to fly to Rwanda?
  • What are the SOPs (protocols) at Kigali International Airport?
  • Is it true that I need a second COVID-19 test on arrival in Rwanda?
  • Can I get visa on arrival in Rwanda?
  • What if I am unable to get a test before I fly?

FAQs about quarantine in Rwanda

  • Will I need to quarantine when I arrive in Kigali?
  • How can I reach my quarantine hotel if I land during curfew?
  • Can friends or family pick people from Kigali Airport?
  • How do I book one of Rwanda’s official quarantine hotels?
  • How long is the quarantine period in Rwanda?
  • What are the protocols for passengers transiting Rwanda in 2021?

FAQs about COVID-19 tests in Rwanda

  • How much does a COVID-19 test cost in Rwanda?
  • Which COVID-19 test is required by the Rwandan government?
  • Which COVID-19 test is required to track the gorillas in Rwanda?
  • Who pays for my treatment if I test positive for COVID-19 in Rwanda?

PRE-DEPARTURE

Have a COVID-19 test. The only accepted test is a SARS-CoV 2 Real Time Polymerase Chain Reaction (RT-PCR) performed within 72 hours of departure time. (NOTE April 2021: not 120 hours as it was initially).

Click here to complete the Passenger Locator Form before boarding the plane to Rwanda. Include passport details and full travel info (including hotel bookings) and upload the COVID-19 test certificate The only exemptions are: travellers under 16 years old who are traveling with a parent or guardian, provided that their details are included on the parent or guardian’s form; they arrive and leave together; and stay at the same address in Rwanda. The information on the form will be used if you (or someone you’ve been in contact with while traveling to Rwanda) develops symptoms of coronavirus (COVID-19). The form must be submitted before departure. Look out for the email confirmation which will give your Unique Health Code (UHC) that you’ll be asked to show upon arrival in Rwanda.

Book one of Rwanda’s designated quarantine hotels. This list is dated December 2020. 

ARRIVAL AT KIGALI INTERNATIONAL AIRPORT

All COVID-19 standard operating procedures (SOPs) are strictly observed at Kigali International Airport; screening procedures include body temperature check.

Postage stamp. aeroport de kigali 1986. Rwanda
Postage stamp. Aeroport de Kigali 1986. Rwanda

Inbound travellers (arriving or transiting) in Kigali Airport are required to present a certificate of a negative COVID-19 test. All arrivals must check in at one of the designated ‘quarantine hotels’ where you will be tested again, at your own expense. The RT-PCR COVID-19 test currently costs $50 USD (47,200 RWF) in Rwanda and payment can be made on the test appointment website. Test results will be sent by SMS or email. The turnaround time for results is 24 hours from the time a sample is collected.

The Government of Rwanda has negotiated special rates at a long list of designated hotels in in Kigali and Rusizi in different price categories for the 24-hour waiting period. The special hotel rate includes airport pick-up and is full board (three meals).

The hotel quarantine period is 24 hours while you wait for your test results. The test result is valid for five days (120 hours).

If a traveller tests positive for COVID-19 while in Rwanda, they will be isolated in a government-run treatment centre or a hotel at your own cost. You will not be permitted to leave Rwanda until you receive a negative PCR test result, which could take several weeks from the first detection of your infection. This applies even if asymptomatic.

FAQs about transit through Kigali, Rwanda

  • I am passing through Kigali in transit. Do I need a COVID-19 test?
  • There is no facility for me to get a COVID-19 test before I fly to Rwanda. What can I do?

Yes. Like other passengers, transit travellers will be screened upon arrival in Rwanda. However, beyond that it’s not clear – protocol for further tests depend on whether you are leaving the airport and for how long.

Visitors who are not able to test in their country of origin have the option of being tested twice in Rwanda. The first test will be done upon arrival at Kigali International Airport and the second test will be taken 48 hours post-arrival. Visitors will wait for their results at designated hotels and will only be allowed to visit tourist sites after two consecutive negative tests.

FAQs about flying out of Kigali

  • Do you need a negative PCR test to fly from Rwanda?
  • How many hours do you need to arrive at the airport before your flight?
  • Where can you get COVID-19 tests done in Kigali?
  • What if my flight from Kigali takes off during curfew?

The Government of Rwanda has a zero-tolerance policy for exporting positive cases of COVID-19.

Travellers departing from Rwanda must also have a negative RT-PCR COVID-19 test within 120 hours (and not less than 48 hours) before departure.

These tests are available at Rwandan Biomedical Centre (RBC) located in Kigali city centre. Rwandan Biomedical Centre has recently opened a testing facility in Musanze, the perfect location for gorilla tracking tourists who need to get the PCR test before heading to the airport. Booking and payment can be made on the test scheduling website. PCR test results are normally sent by SMS within 48 hours and available on RBC’s COVID-19 Test Results Portal. You will need to print out this travel certificate and have it ready to show at the entry to Kigali Airport.

The virus prevention measures and additional health screenings at the airport mean you’ll need to allow extra time. Four hours is recommended.

Government regulations during COVID-19 that tourists need to know

  • Do you have to wear a mask in public in Rwanda?
  • Is public transport working in Rwanda during the pandemic?
  • Can I take a moto (motorbike ride) in Kigali?
  • What are the curfew hours in Rwanda?
  • How can I find a reputable tour company in Rwanda?

Face masks must be worn at all times in public. Major public facilities have temperature checks in place and most government buildings ask you to provide locator (contact tracing) information before they’ll let you in.

Rwanda COVID-19 update March 2021:

  • The Kigali lockdown has been lifted. Private vehicles and taxis are allowed to take tourists across the country, to have COVID-19 test appointments or to go to Kigali airport to exit the country. If you’re looking for a reputable tour company in Rwanda, visit my Travel Directory.
  • A curfew is in force from between 9 pm and 4 am.
  • Ministry of Health directives include “mandatory wearing of masks by patrons before and after consumption of food, as well as physical distance of two metres between tables at all establishments.”
  • Tourists should use cashless transactions such as bank transfer, mobile money, and debit / credit cards. Mobile money can be accessed using a local Sim card. It’s easy to set up, is widely accepted and has lower transaction these than any other method.
  • All tourist vehicles and boats should have an unoccupied seat between each passenger.
  • Meetings and events should have maximum 30% occupancy per room / space. COVID-19 tests are mandatory for meetings of more than 20 people.
  • Restaurants are now allowed to operate with a maximum 30 per cent of their occupancy.

Are private cars allowed to cross the Rwanda border?

At present am I able to cross into Uganda from Rwanda at a land border in south east Uganda? I would be going to Kisoro. I would be travelling as an individual visitor, not with a tour group. Can I walk across a border into Uganda from Rwanda to get to Kisoro?

Enquiry from a traveler.

Rwanda’s major land borders with Burundi, Tanzania and Uganda still remain closed except for returning Rwandan citizens or residents. The exception to this rule are cargo trucks, whose drivers must undergo quarantine before heading into Rwanda.

The Muzungu adds: I do know of individuals (with work permits and/or residency) who have crossed the land borders in 2021. Tourist vans are not crossing; however I have a verbatim report of this being possible if your tour company gets special permission, in advance, from Kigali. However, the process is bureaucratic and not recommended, according to a source in tourism.

Rwanda tourist map. Rwanda Development Board
Rwanda tourist map. Rwanda Development Board

Are you gorilla trekking in Rwanda?

  • What are the SOPs for tracking gorillas and chimps?
  • Does Rwanda have promotional prices to track gorillas in 2021?
  • What do domestic tourists need to know about tourism in Rwanda?
  • Do I need a COVID-19 test if I’m going on safari in Akagera National Park?
  • Are Rwanda’s National Parks open?

If you’re planning to visit Rwanda’s National Parks or track the gorillas, you will need to show your negative test certificate before you are allowed to enter. The only accepted test for Volcanoes, Nyungwe and Gishwati-Mukura National Parks is RT-PCR. A negative Rapid Antigen Test RDT is acceptable for Akagera National Park. All other tourism destinations and hotels will accept either a RDT or RT – PCR test.

Virunga Lodge Rwanda. luxury gorilla tracking. Volcanoes Safaris
Virunga Lodge Rwanda. luxury gorilla tracking. Volcanoes Safaris

** I am publishing a separate blog about gorilla tracking in Rwanda during the pandemic. If you have scrolled this far and don’t see it, please contact me. New rules apply for tracking gorillas and other primates.

Have you heard of Red Rocks? Make time for authentic cultural tourism.

After the gorilla tracking experience – or as an engaging day trip from Kigali – taste authentic cultural tourism at Red Rocks Cultural Centre and Campsite in Musanze, just a few kilometres away from the gorillas. The Northern Province is best known for the gorillas but also a hub for community tourism.

Explore and discover a wide range of cultural activities: be entertained by a traditional local dancer, watch how local banana beer is made, participate in cooking Rwandese cuisine or simply enjoy storytelling by the bonfire with locals. Learn about the history of Rwanda while tasting freshly-roasted corn (maize) or potatoes.

Traditional Dancers, Musanze. Red Rocks Rwanda
Traditional Dancers, Musanze. Red Rocks Rwanda

Red Rocks also offers lessons in basket-weaving: women artisans show you how to make the traditional Agaseke basket. Visit the Red Rocks Initiatives art gallery in Kinigi, create art to take home as a souvenir and witness how arts contribute to conservation of the gorillas, and the wider environment. Visitors can buy quality basketry, craft and art souvenirs directly from the artisans at very affordable prices. This support is particularly valued now.

Red Rocks Cultural Centre was established by Greg Bakunzi to support sustainable community development. He is optimistic that local tourism will remain resilient during travel’s trying times of COVID-19. “We have been encouraging Rwandans to become domestic travellers and bridge the gap caused by the big drop in international arrivals. These local visitors have given our host families and communities confidence that gradually we shall resume full-scale tourism, despite the long haul this global pandemic has created.”

I’ve visited Red Rocks a number of times and love the buzz at their community centre.

Rwanda is open #VisitRwanda

Further reading about COVID-19 in Rwanda, government advice about travelling during the pandemic and emergency contact information.

Have a question about travel to Rwanda? Feel free to ask a question in the comments (this will help other travellers) or contact me directly.

Coronavirus survival tips: how to work from home

The muzungu’s kick-ass tips for working at home during the Coronavirus lockdown in Uganda

As many Ugandans wake up to the new reality of Coronavirus (read my extensive guide with practical tips here) and the need to work from home, I thought I’d share my personal tips for managing a virtual office.

I’ve been working home since 2009 when I arrived in Uganda as a volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. The organisation budget was tight: I slept in one bedroom and the office was in another bedroom of the shared house. Although it was convenient for me (hooray no sweaty matatu taxi rides to work) I also found it difficult as I had the feeling I was always on duty. Since then, I have spent most of my time as a freelancer, often working from my bedroom. It hasn’t been ideal but I’ve made it work for me.

My 'office' is at the end of my bed but alas no internet! When I want to get online, I walk to the top of a nearby hill and sit on the concrete floor of the mabiti-roofed church. I manage - and so can you
My ‘office’ is at the end of my bed but alas no internet! When I want to get online, I walk to the top of a nearby hill (overlooking Kibale Forest) and sit on the concrete floor of the mabati-roofed church. I manage – and so can you

I have been in lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest since March 23rd. You can read my story here at no. 3 in Fodor’s Travel’s article “We Asked for Fascinating Stories of Lockdown Abroad. And Wow, Did We Get Them.”

Are you working from home for the first time?

There’s a lot to take in right now as you swap the stresses of the daily commute for the challenges of bosses and clients expecting you to meet deadlines in a wholly different environment. Everyone’s adjusting to the Coronavirus outbreak in different ways. I hope you find something of use in this blog. If not, tell me, what have I missed?

Here are my personal do’s and don’ts for working productively from home during the Coronavirus outbreak

  • DO keep regular hours. Don’t lie in until 11 am. If you usually commute to work, you will have more time than usual to work. If you normally work from 9 to 5, try keeping those hours. Give yourself a lunch break. Some people find it hard to start work in the morning. I’m the opposite, I find it hard to switch off at night (!)
  • DO keep a separate working area. This should be separate from where you eat. If you have to work at the kitchen, try and keep working and eating as separate activities. Meals should be appreciated and enjoyed. Food and drinks near laptops and phones can be a disaster, I know! I once spilled a cup of tea over my laptop keyboard. It can happen to any of us. You’re supposed to be social distancing at home; you don’t want to be running to the computer shop because you had an IT disaster.
  • DON’T work in bed. Bed is for resting, sleeping, reading and ‘other stuff.’ Bed is your personal sanctuary where you unwind and relax. If you’re in bed checking your phone, or typing away on your laptop, you are not giving your brain the personal space you need to relax fully. Go easy on yourself. Every evening by 9 pm, sometimes earlier, I switch my phone to airplay mode. Studies show that if you have an electronic device near you, your brain is mentally checking in, even if you are not touching the device. You need your beauty sleep, especially right now.
  • DO get organised. Think about aspects of your regular working environment that work well and try to recreate that if you can. Be creative!
  • DO tell your family and friends when you are working. Make it clear that between certain times e.g. 9 to 5 o’clock, you have work commitments. They can support you by respecting this – giving you a call at an agreed time when you’re done. (This gives you something to look forward to as well).
  • DO think about which Internet provider is giving you the best service. Now is the time to shop around. I hot spot between two internet providers.
  • DO be considerate. If you are covering your own data bill, you might want to work into the night but think about the knock-on effect of that. It may mean you’re useless in the morning when colleagues need to speak to you. Think about how your working antisocial hours can impact your family and the people you live with. Is it fair to them if you are cranky all the time? We’re all going to need a bit more patience than normal so cut yourself – and everyone around you – a bit of slack. Try and create routines that suit everyone in your living space.
  • DO be economical. Think carefully about your Internet use. If you work from home, make sure you have enough data to meet your deadlines. Don’t watch Netflix all night then tell the boss you are out of data. Be sensible. Don’t take your job for granted. Many have already lost theirs.
  • DO keep in contact with colleagues on a regular basis. Office life is a lot more than deadlines. Even if you can’t stand your colleagues (!) you will be used to interacting with them and their everyday chitchat. Find a way to keep that going if you can. Zoom meetings, WhatsApp groups, Facebook groups, Skype conference calls, Google Hangouts, there are dozens of different ways of creating a virtual chatroom. Most of them are free.
  • DO embrace technology. Make use of online project collaboration tools. These can be as simple as Google Docs and Google Sheets, or try Dropbox. Rather than emailing attachments to each other, set up online sharing / collaboration systems, where you can see people’s comments and edits ‘in real time’ (without worrying that there are three different versions of the one document in circulation). These kinds of tools can make you a lot more productive. When you go back to the office, you may wonder how you never used them before! I work with many people who I never meet in person. We collaborate well with a combination of Dropbox, Google Docs, WhatsApp and CoSchedule (blog and social media promotion software). I can be a total geek you know!
  • DO check that your laptop and phone software are up-to-date. Check your antivirus software. (Aren’t there enough viruses doing the rounds?) You don’t want a software meltdown when you’re hiding at home far away from the IT department. That said, Teamviewer is a great free piece of software that allows remote access. My IT guy in Kampala can remotely access my laptop when I need him to check something out for me, even if I’m travelling.
  • DO think about how you keep track of your time. Your boss or client may require you to prove how much time you have worked on different projects. I use some software called Toggl.com.
  • DO keep physically active. This is easier said than done so that’s why a routine is important. If you can, go for a (fast) walk or run first thing in the morning. This sets up your metabolism for the day and will clear your head. Get the blood pumping, increase your heartbeat, don’t hang around chatting to people, just wave at them and go on your way. (Remember social distancing, even while you’re exercising). If you can’t get out of the house, how about doing some squats? Get on YouTube and take part in a fitness class. Call up a friend and ask them to do a YouTube exercise class with you while you’re on the phone together. Having a walk late afternoon is a good way to mark the end of your working day too.
  • In South Africa, recreational running and walking outside your house / garden was banned during lockdown. Read how Bradt Travel Guide writer Philip Briggs has been managing his fitness by running a loop around his cabbages!
  • DO work standing up if you can. Studies show that it is better for you than sitting hunched over a laptop.
    If you are making phone calls, stand up, take a walk around where you live, look out of the window, look up at the sky, look at the birds. Your voice projects better when you are standing up and you will feel more comfortable as well.
  • DON’T have work meetings at home. You’re in isolation, right?
  • DO drink plenty of water.
  • DON’T sit at your desk snacking all day. It’s easy to put on weight when you’re working from home. Not only are you sitting at your desk or table all day, but you are not walking around the office, or walking to the taxi stage like you do most days. Sometimes we snack when we are bored.
    At the start of the day, imagine you are getting ready to travel to work and plan your snacks. Prepare something and have it ready for when you want a break. Low-fat items like apples and chopped carrots are good for you. Boiled eggs and (plain) yoghurt are filling. Go easy on the ground nuts, chapatis and rolex! If you like bananas, don’t eat more than one. They’re pure starch and if you sit on your kabina (backside) all day, that thing will grow!
  • DO cut back on your sugar intake and soda drinking.
  • DON’T hit the bottle too often, tempting as it might be. You’ll put on weight if you drink too much alcohol and may get mood swings too. If you smoke weed, don’t go overboard. Normal everyday life will be back with us soon enough…
  • DON’T sit around all day in your night clothes. (It will feel rather weird if your boss rings and you are half dressed). If you are dressed in your work clothes, it will help you focus on the tasks ahead.
  • DO enjoy time off. Just because your laptop is there, don’t become a work bore (like me!) Weekends are for relaxing, even when you’re working from home. Get away from the screen. If you are on the laptop all day, and then watching TV or playing computer games (more screens), your brain may fry, my dear! Read a book or newspaper, play cards, cook, sew, do a spot of gardening, plant tomatoes on your balcony, listen to music and podcasts, sing, play music… even washing clothes or polishing your shoes can be therapeutic. Pray, meditate, do some yoga … stroke the cat.
  • DO take a digital detox. Take time out from watching Coronavirus news and following social media. It may clear your mind and destress you. The world will keep turning!
    If you find it hard to ignore social media, turn off all the notifications.
  • DON’T suffer unnecessarily, DO reach out for support.
  • DON’T leave the house during lockdown unless absolutely necessary. If you have to go out, social distance two metres from others. Wash your hands with plenty of soap for at least 20 seconds. Use hand sanitiser containing 60% or more alcohol (if there’s no soap). When you get home, jump straight in the shower. Read more practical tips here on my extensive Coronavirus blog which I update on a weekly basis.

When I’m not working from home, I train businesses in digital marketing and travel across East Africa (usually by public transport). I feel like my wings are clipped right now but let’s remember this enforced ‘time out’ is for our greater good.

#StaySafeStayHome #StaySafeUG #StaySafe

Ugandan friends, what are your tips for working from home during Coronavirus?

Do you have tips to share or is working from home a new experience for you? I’d love to know your thoughts here or send me a personal message.

Bracing ourselves for Coronavirus in Uganda

Practical tips for Ugandans, Coronavirus symptoms, freephone numbers for advice, further reading on COVID-19, advice to travellers to Uganda, how to reschedule gorilla tracking permits in Uganda, and more.

The last few months have felt surreal. I feel like I’m on the set of a John Wyndham science fiction movie. Everything looks the same yet everything is different. My world view has shifted.

I have been in lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest since March 23rd 2020. You can read my story here in “We Asked for Fascinating Stories of Lockdown Abroad. And Wow, Did We Get Them.”

I don’t pretend to be a Coronavirus expert but I am adding links to useful tips and information as I find them. At the time I published this blog (21st March 2020) there was little practical advice online in Uganda about how we should respond to Coronavirus. One of my best friends is registrar at a London hospital (and heads up the hospital’s COVID response plan) so I’m checking facts with her before I share them.Scroll down and see what’s relevant to you. Write a comment if I have missed something!

Dial *260# and follow the prompts to get information on COVID-19, contacts of RDCs and regular alerts. Launched 5th April 2020
Dial *260# and follow the prompts to get information on COVID-19, contacts of RDCs and regular alerts. Launched 5th April 2020

The volume of information about Coronavirus and the staggering changes to so many aspects of our lives is quite overwhelming, isn’t it? I thought I’d be able to keep on top of developments in our corner of the world, but I have been struggling. Upcountry internet has not helped. For simplicity I am therefore simply adding links to latest info as comments at the bottom of this post – when I can’t edit this post. If you see anything that you think is wrong or out of date, do please contact me and I shall correct it ASAP.

UPDATE: May 27th 2021. There are rumours we may go back into lockdown as there has been a big rise in infections. Facemasks must be worn in public; bars remain closed (officially, at least). Police are getting strict about curfew again. Download the full Ministry of Health Uganda press release. Update on COVID-19 pandemic, dated 27 May 2021.

The Ministry of Health launched a portal that tracks the virus in Uganda. Click here to access the COVID-19 Information Portal. To watch President Museveni’s broadcasts about Coronavirus in Uganda, visit https://yowerikmuseveni.com/

Social distancing and quarantine. Graphic. Corona Virus
Quarantine applies to ALL of us! That includes YOU! Even though lockdown has been lifted, COVID is spreading rapidly across Uganda. Don’t mix with large groups unless you need to. Wear a mask

Are you worried you have Corona Virus symptoms?

Click here to do the COVID-19 self-help test. It takes a few seconds and is FREE.

John Wyndham is famous for books such as The Chrysalids and The Day of the Triffids which “chillingly anticipates bio-warfare and mass destruction.” I’m not a conspiracy theorist but the sight of strangers wearing masks in the supermarket and the notion of unseen dangers in everyday life has clearly rattled me over the past weeks.

As Uganda braced itself to deal with coronavirus (first case confirmed 21 March 2020; Uganda records first Coronavirus death 23rd July), holidays have been cancelled and tour operators are looking despondent. I had an international flight booked (but will I make it to the UK? NO I’m still in Uganda. Would I make it back into Uganda if I had travelled? Who knows). African tourism – global tourism as a whole – looks pretty doomed right now.

The Ugandan government closed Entebbe International Airport to passenger planes from midnight 23 March but the airport reopened on October 1st 2020. Land borders were also closed (except for cargo). Testing and contact tracing is now in place at official borders. If you are due to travel to or from Uganda you should contact your airline or tour operator for the latest advice.

Corona Virus - why everyone should be social distancing via BBC
Corona Virus – why everyone [and that means YOU] should be social distancing.
Graphic via the BBC

The 14 day self-quarantine process had its flaws and quarantine in hotels became controversial and expensive. The good news is that you can fly into Uganda without having to go into quarantine; however, you will need to present a negative COVID test 72 hours before you board the plane. If you present with COVID symptoms when you arrive at Entebbe Airport, you may be tested and taken into quarantine. Many people are now working from home. Read my blog Corona Virus survival tips: how to work from home during the Corona Virus in Uganda.

Here is a list of approved quarantine hotels in Uganda.

Which are the Coronavirus “affected countries”?

NOTE: some countries allow travel from affected countries; others allow travel if the country has less than 200 cases. This is the global map of locations with confirmed COVID-19 cases, by WHO Region, created by CDC (Centers for Disease Control and Prevention).

On March 25th 2020 Uganda Wildlife Authority announced “primate tourism and research suspended in all Protected Areas until April 30th 2020.” They have also updated rescheduling of gorilla tracking permits (and other activities in the National Parks). Primate tracking has reopened but you have to wear a mask throughout your time in the primate National Parks. UWA has various discounts in place across the country during 2021.

Read my blog Uganda Wildlife Authority goes on Facebook Live to discuss wildlife protection during the pandemic. This includes a link to watch the recording of the event in which ED Sam Mwandha discusses law enforcement, human wildlife conflict, primate tourism and the future of UWA and more.

Primate tourism and research suspended in all Protected Areas until April 30th 2020. This move protects our closest relatives: the chimpanzees and gorillas

In a press statement, Association of Uganda Tour Operators (AUTO)“advises that consumers and travel agents contact their tour operator directly and in a timely fashion to discuss available options.”

Would the world not allow Africa just a little time to celebrate the momentous news reported below this week?

The last Ebola patient has been discharged from a treatment centre in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. March 4 2020

The last Ebola patient has been discharged from a treatment centre in the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

A 42-day countdown has begun to declare the end of the world’s second-deadliest Ebola epidemic. https://t.co/inNZYioo7H — United Nations (@UN) March 4, 2020

Ebola has since resurfaced in the DRC 🙁
Corona Virus World Health Organisation advice Uganda
One of the rumours I’ve heard in Uganda is that our climate is protecting us from Corona Virus. Not true #fakenews
Have I got Corona Virus? How to tell if you have Corona Virus, cold or flu. Uganda health advice
Have I got Corona Virus. How to tell if you have Corona Virus, cold or flu. Uganda health advice
Washing your hands regularly with soap and water. Wash them for 20 seconds. This is most effective way to protect yourself
Here is an awareness poster written in Luganda created by Mama & Me Uganda for Corona Virus Awareness
Thanks to Zummi for sharing this poster in Luganda created by Mama & Me Uganda.
Click on the image to download, share or print it

Basic protective measures against the new coronavirus (courtesy of WHO and Unicef)

Most people who become infected experience mild illness and recover, but it can be more severe for others. Take care of your health and protect others by doing the following:

Wash your hands frequently. Wash your hands with plenty of soap and water. British advice is to wash your hands for 20 seconds or “sing Happy Birthday twice!”

Keep an alcohol-based sanitizer ready for times when soap and water are not available.

Why? Washing with soap and water or using alcohol-based hand rub kills viruses that may be on your hands.

Maintain social distancing (and don’t take it personally when others do the same to you)

Maintain at least 1 metre (3 feet) distance between yourself and anyone who is coughing or sneezing. Use ‘no-touch’ greetings such as hand waving, elbow bumping or “namaste” rather than handshakes and hugs.

Why? When someone coughs or sneezes they spray small liquid droplets from their nose or mouth which may contain virus. If you are too close, you can breathe in the droplets, including the COVID-19 virus if the person coughing has the disease.

Avoid touching eyes, nose and mouth

Why? Hands touch many surfaces and can pick up viruses. Once contaminated, hands can transfer the virus to your eyes, nose or mouth. From there, the virus can enter your body and can make you sick.

Your phone is probably the dirtiest thing we possess! (After you wash your hands, next clean your phone). Read and watch Coronavirus: How to clean your smartphone safely, courtesy of a microbiologist.

Practice ‘respiratory hygiene

Cover your mouth and nose with your bent elbow or tissue when you cough or sneeze. Then dispose of the used tissue immediately.

Why? Droplets spread virus. By following good respiratory hygiene you protect the people around you from viruses such as cold, flu and COVID-19.

If you have fever, cough and difficulty breathing, seek medical care early

Stay home if you feel unwell. If you have a fever, cough and difficulty breathing, seek medical attention and call in advance. (The freephone numbers are on this page). Follow the directions of your local health authority.

Why? National and local authorities will have the most up to date information on the situation in your area. Calling in advance will allow your health care provider to quickly direct you to the right health facility. This will also protect you and help prevent spread of viruses and other infections.

Know the symptoms of Corona Virus
Know the symptoms of Corona Virus. Graphic by @amplifierart

Message from the Ministry of Health, Uganda

The Ministry of Health requests the general public to call our toll free lines ☎ on 0800-100-066 or 0800-203-033 to report any suspected cases of Coronavirus Disease (COVID-19) or to inquire information on COVIDー19. Alternatively, you can call or WhatsApp @ainbyoo Senior Public Relations Officer at the Ministry of Health on +256 (0)706 428093 or send a FREE SMS to Ureport on 8500. You can also call Atek Kagirita on +256 (0)752 909153.

The Muzungu: I called 0800-100-066 and was told that if you think you have been exposed to Coronavirus, you should attend one of the screening centres. These are China Uganda Friendship Naguru and Entebbe Grade B Hospital. Corona Virus screening is free of charge.

UPDATE NOVEMBER 2020: note that if you present yourself at a government facility with COVID symptoms, you do not have to pay for the test. If you simply want to get tested for your own peace of mind or because you are travelling, you will pay 185k UGX at a government clinic. There are a number of private clinics that offer testing. Some of them even offer a drive-through service or will come to your home or office and test you. These prices range from 300k to 450k ugx.

A clear example that hand sanitiser can’t replace thorough hand-washing with soap. Corona Virus Uganda prevention
Above is a clear example that hand sanitiser can’t replace thorough hand-washing with soap. Click on the image to read about one school’s clever experiment showing different mouldy results!

Further reading about the Corona Virus in Uganda

Visit the Coronavirus disease (COVID-19) outbreak website for information and guidance from WHO (World Health Organization) regarding the current outbreak of coronavirus disease (COVID-19). Page updated daily. It has facts, statistics and practical videos. I have learned a LOT from visiting this site. It includes advice on common questions like:

  • Protection measures for persons who are in or have recently visited (past 14 days) areas where COVID-19 is spreading
  • When and how to use masks
  • Myth busters such as
  • How effective are thermal scanners in detecting people infected with the new coronavirus? (They only detect a fever. You may have the virus but not be exhibiting fever yet).
  • Can spraying alcohol or chlorine all over your body kill the new coronavirus? (In summary, no).
  • Are antibiotics effective in preventing and treating the new coronavirus? (No Uganda, antibiotics do not work against viruses, only bacteria).
  • Are there any specific medicines to prevent or treat the new coronavirus? (In summary, no. Try not to get it, relieve symptoms, don’t spread the virus).
  • Getting your workplace ready for Corona Virus. This pdf document addresses questions such as:
  • 1. Simple ways to prevent the spread of COVID-19 in your workplace
  • 2. How to manage COVID-19 risks when organizing meetings & events
  • 3. Things to consider when you and your employees travel
  • 4. Getting your workplace ready in case COVID-19 arrives in your community.
  • Travel advice

UNICEF Uganda has similar information:

Coronavirus (COVID-19): What you need to know and learn. How to protect yourself and your loved ones.

This short video is aimed at parents

What should people with a lung condition do now? Visit the British Lung Foundation website for more information. This advice is aimed at those who are 70 or over; or are pregnant; or have a weakened immune system; or have a long-term lung condition such as asthma, COPD, emphysema, bronchitis or pulmonary fibrosis.

Should I use a facemask?

Face mask in the village #COVID-19 ##Uganda
I saw a weird variety of pathetic-looking face masks on sale along Jinja Road but this is my favourite! Thanks to WhatsApp for this one

The Ugandan government states that you must wear a facemask when you’re out in public. Supermarkets are not supposed to let you enter unless you are wearing a mask. They may take your temperature and disinfect your hands or ask you to wash them. They may even take your contact details for contact tracing.

Opinions on the effectiveness of masks vary. My doctor friend told me: I doubt masks are 100% effective because even the properly designed ones in surgery are only maximum 95% effective. However, masks DO stop you touching your face (and that may be enough to prevent you catching the virus). Note that:

  • The mask must be clean so can’t be touched on the inside when taking on or off.
  • It must be clean each time it is worn.
  • Wash your hands before putting on your (or someone else’s) mask.
  • Don’t have it hanging round your neck. That is not hygienic (and you are not wearing the mask, are you?)

Coronavirus (COVID-19). Health advice for people with asthma

How a country serious about coronavirus does testing and quarantine

James Onen shared the interview below on Twitter. (Ignore the US context, listen to his advice). One huge advantage Uganda has is our experience managing – and preventing – Ebola.

WHO Director-General’s opening remarks at the media briefing on COVID-19 – 11 March 2020

“All countries can still change the course of this pandemic.

If countries detect, test, treat, isolate, trace, and mobilize their people in the response, those with a handful of cases can prevent those cases becoming clusters, and those clusters becoming community transmission.

All countries must strike a fine balance between protecting health, minimizing economic and social disruption, and respecting human rights.

This is not just a public health crisis, it is a crisis that will touch every sector – so every sector and every individual must be involved in the fight.” 

Where did Corona Virus come from?

The Berlin Principles are an urgent call to governments, academia, and civil society that all sectors need to break down barriers to ensure a united effort to prevent the emergence or resurgence of diseases that threaten humans, wildlife, and livestock.
Viruses like #COVID19 will continue to occur as long as we humans trade in wildlife, remove habitats and make 200 other species – the virus’ original hosts – extinct per day, according to https://thingreenline.org.au
Wildlife trafficking and live animal markets. Corona Virus

The world is watching Covid-19 and learning a new word: zoonotic disease. What’s going on?

Read Preventing Disease Outbreaks: Lessons From Uganda, an interview with “Conservationist, veterinarian, epidemiologist, and health worker in the villages near wild habitat, Dr. Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka is an advocate for the well-being of both people and animals. She is teaching Ugandans how to achieve wildlife conservation through public health and prevent disease outbreaks. We asked Gladys for insights into the current novel coronavirus pandemic and how we can prevent future outbreaks.”

“A group of 27 prominent public health scientists from outside China is pushing back against a steady stream of stories and even a scientific paper suggesting a laboratory in Wuhan, China, may be the origin of the outbreak of COVID-19.” Read Scientists ‘strongly condemn’ rumors and conspiracy theories about origin of coronavirus outbreak published 19th March on ScienceMag.org

Keep safe dear readers. This will pass.

Where NOT to swim in the River Nile

Where NOT to swim in the River Nile

If you’re planning to go swimming in Uganda or white water rafting, kayaking or canoeing, don’t worry, the River Nile near Jinja is mostly fast flowing so there’s little chance that you will catch Bilharzia, although it’s not impossible.

The Bilharzia (snail) larvae breed in the shallow waters of the reed beds. Just to be on the safe side, if you plan on swimming in Uganda, first read my page on How to avoid Bilharzia.

Muzungu swimmming in the River Nile, Jinja, Uganda

Swimming in Uganda. Oh, the life of a volunteer TRA LA! Taking a dip below The Haven, River Nile, Jinja.

 

I’ve been Grade 5 White Water rafting three times in Uganda. Adrenalin rushes aside, I found that gently floating along next to our raft between the rapids is one of the best things I have ever done. I felt completely safe.

The dams at Owen Falls and Bujagali are very effective barriers to the rare crocodiles that you find on the Jinja shores of Lake Victoria. Any renegade crocs are quickly picked up by the Uganda Wildlife Authority so there’s nothing to worry about if you’re messing around on the river.

There are hippos and a few crocodiles on Lake Victoria itself (above the Owen Falls dam), so I’d give the midnight swims a miss until you’ve checked with local people whether any have been seen in the vicinity!

Swimming in Uganda – or in the River Nile at Murchison Falls National Park to be precise – is an altogether different matter: do not under any circumstance consider dipping even a toe in the river. As well as having very strong currents, here the River Nile is a fantastic mass of man-eating crocs and hippo!

Swimming in Uganda. Hippo chasing at man at Paraa, Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

Did you know….? The hippo is Africa’s most dangerous mammal. Hippo chasing man at Paraa, Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

 

Some of the wildlife highlights of the River Nile in Murchison Falls are the pods of Hippo, and the huge Nile Crocodiles – you have been warned!

Do you enjoy swimming in Uganda? Have you swum in the River Nile?

Do you have any other Uganda travel tips or expat travel advice you’d like to share?

Please leave a comment here or check out the Diary of a Muzungu Guest Post page for more information, I’d love to hear from you!

Beware the Travellers’ Health Book! Tropical disease diary

Beware the Travellers’ Health Book! Tropical disease diary – Uganda travel health advice from the muzungu

Or … “How not to do it”

This month I have been bitten by Mango Flies and a spider. I have had Malaria and Scabies, a fungal infection and an allergic reaction… what have you been doing, you may ask?

The silly Muzungu thought she would try and save money by consulting her Travellers Health book for Uganda travel health advice. I’d been itching like crazy, two evenings in a row and it felt like the surface of my skin was crawling alive. “Itching, particularly bad at night” was found in the Scabies section of the book. The next morning, I walked down to the local pharmacist and then to the local clinic for a diagnosis.

I was trying to go local. I like supporting local businesses and, after all, isn’t a Ugandan more likely to know what afflicts somebody who lives in Uganda? So went the thinking…

Three diagnoses later, plus a concoction of antihistamines, fungicide treatment, and other treatments  – and I was still itching like crazy.

It wasn’t Scabies.

Nor had I been suffering from Mango Fly bites.

I thought it highly unlikely that I could possibly have Malaria a third time in six months. After all, Dr Stockley tells us “you can’t get Malaria in Kampala.”

When I told him that I thought I’d caught Malaria in Ggaba, he said: “Yes, well that’s Ggaba, that’s not Kampala!”

I always err on the side of caution, so when I got sick I decided I better have one more Malaria test. At the local clinic, I was surprised to hear I had the third positive result in four months, although I hear positive results are not that easy to get. (Even if you do have Malaria, it often hides in your organs and doesn’t show up in the test).

malaria Uganda travel health adviceI’d been a bit suspicious of said clinic. They first tried to sell me a cream that was almost out of date. Obviously disappointed that I didn’t want to buy that, the clinic then tried to sell me something else for a condition that never even got a mention during the consultation!

I won’t be going there again, especially when I later had a conclusive result from Nakasero Hospital that proved I could not possibly have had Malaria when I had my test two days previously at the local pharmacy. In fact, a tropical medicine doctor friend says the antigen test for malaria shows I can’t have had it in the last six months…

Malaria life cycle. Uganda travel health advice

And what was it that I had in the end?

Nothing tropical, only a case of Shingles, finally diagnosed by the Surgery. A British nurse friend had suggested I might have Shingles, but the two local clinics refuted that suggestion. Shingles is brought on by stress. It’s not contagious, but if you have had chickenpox as a child, you risk developing it later in life.

In my effort to save money, I’d actually wasted money by taking medications for something that I didn’t even have. I had prolonged my illness too.

Learn from the muzungu’s experience. When you feel ill, go to the best doctor you can afford – straightaway (and ditch the Travellers Health Book!)

Are you new to Uganda? You might find this blog useful: How to avoid Malaria.

Do you have any other Uganda travel tips or expat travel advice you’d like to share?

Please leave a comment here or check out the Diary of a Muzungu Guest Post page for more information, I’d love to hear from you!

Uganda Travel Tips

Uganda travel and health tips for tourists and new expats

Are you looking for advice before travelling to Uganda? This page is for you!

Are you moving to Uganda as a volunteer or on a work contract? Read Uganda for beginners – introduction for new expats.

Everyone has questions about visas. I frequently update How to buy Ugandan tourist visas and always answer readers’ questions directly on this page.

One of the first things you’ll want to know when you travel to Uganda is how to call home. It’s certainly a lot easier than it was – although you can’t always guarantee a successful call. Read the Muzungu’s tips for calling home from Uganda.

Uganda is a fantastic country to travel and live in but, if it’s your first time in sub Saharan Africa, you’ll probably have a few health-related questions. Read my tongue-in-cheek guide the Uganda travel advice I ignored. Here you can read the Muzungu’s personal tips on how to avoid how to avoid Bilharzia and how to avoid Malaria, how to ride a boda boda (motorbike) – and even how to date a Ugandan!

Many expats like me take on a dog (or two) when they come to Uganda. Read all about my adventures with USPCA rescue dogs Baldrick and Percy. And for those of you finishing a contract in Uganda and planning to take your mutt with you, I’m sure you’ll find this first-hand experience a useful guide. How to take your dog to the UK from Uganda.

My friend Mark shared some driving advice in How to drive in Kampala. Driving here is not for the timid! You just have to dive in – and have your wits about you at all times.

Do you have any other Uganda travel tips or advice for new expats you’d like to share?

Please leave a comment here or check out the Diary of a Muzungu Guest Post page for information on how to share your story, I’d love to hear from you!