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Will you Run or Ride the Rift? Sign up for the 2024 events now!

Get fit. Help out. Feel good

Join me in registering for this year’s calendar of sporting events taking place at the fabulous Kyaninga Lodge near Fort Portal. I love these professionally organised annual events! Full booking info, prices and contact details are on the Kyaninga Sporting Events website.

Kyaninga Lodge sports events programme Fort Portal 2024
Kyaninga Lodge sports events programme for 2024

Where do the annual Kyaninga sporting events take place?

These events are centred in and around Kyaninga Lodge, just 15 minutes’ drive from Fort Portal. The lodge provides one of the most spectacular, and challenging, backdrops for a sporting event that any athlete – serious or recreational (like me) – could wish for. Read my blog, Kyaninga Lodge – the dancing, running (and relaxing!) lodge.

Who profits from the Kyaninga sporting events?

All proceeds go to the excellent Kyaninga Child Development Centre. KCDC provides much needed therapy services for children with disabilities in the region, the majority of whom are from disadvantaged families and would otherwise go untreated. I’ve seen how their work can transform a disabled child’s family for the better.

Running the Rift, Kyaninga Lodge, Fort Portal Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu.
Running the Rift – with Dillon, Assumptah, baby Stella and Rachel from Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre

One year we all took part in Running the Rift. Innocent and Emmanuel steamed into 4th and 5th places in the 21 km (while some of us walked the 5 km!) Assumptah carried baby Stella the whole 5 km. Way to go, team!

Running the Rift, Kyaninga Lodge, Fort Portal Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu.
Running the Rift with the Diary of a Muzungu family

Ride the Rift bike races Kyaninga Lodge – Date to be confirmed

Choose from the 65 km descent bike race or the 95 km “Beast Route!”

Take in Lake Albert, cycle through the Semuliki Wildlife Reserve, and then up and down the foothills of the majestic Rwenzori Mountains. Choose the challenge of cycling the ‘up’ course, climbing from the lowest point in Uganda, 615 metres, up over a vertical kilometre, to finish at 1685 metres. On the ‘down’ course, cycle into the valley and watch it open up in front of you. For the ultimate adventure, choose the Beast Route – a total of 95 km.

The date of the 2024 event is to be confirmed later in the year.

How much does it cost to Ride the Rift in 2024?

  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ Pre-registration is required for all events.
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ Entry fee $45 includes event registration, prize-giving ceremony and evening entertainment. For Ugandans, the fee is 165k ugx.
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ There is also a special prize for the top Ugandan finisher in each category (male / female, 65km / 95km race).
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ TO REGISTER: MomoPay 613517 events@kyaningacdc.org or +256 778277248.
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ Bike hire options are available.
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ All races start and finish at Kyaninga Lodge with afternoon prizegiving and evening entertainment in the events hall. These events are always a great day out, even if you’re just an observer (but do buy lunch and some raffle tickets; it’s a fundraiser after all!)
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ Bus transfer $15 (optional bus transport for bike and rider from Lake Albert back to Kyaninga Lodge). Local lunch is available at Lake Albert finish line (at additional cost).

Kyaninga Triathlon and Duathlon, Kyaninga Lodge – Saturday May 18th 2024

Kyaninga Lodge KCDC triathlon, duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024
Kyaninga Lodge KCDC triathlon, duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024

The Kyaninga (42km) Marathon is a big day in the local and international running calendar. Beginners run alongside Olympians, locals run alongside visitors from around the world and everyone runs the most stunning race route imaginable. You will run high up on the Rift Valley Escarpment, looking out “as the Rwenzori Mountains melt into the East African plain.” The races are followed by a big after-party and BBQ.

How much does it cost to Run the Rift?

“Race-only entry” is available to Ugandan residents. Pre-registration required.

  • 42 km $45 or 165k UGX
  • 21 km $45 or 165k UGX
  • 10 km $40 or 150k UGX
  • 5 km $30 or 110 k UGX
  • Event fee includes registration, prize-giving ceremony and evening entertainment. Half price for kids under 12.

Choose from Triathlon, Duathlon or Fun Run.

For the ultimate challenge, or team event, sign up for the popular Kyaninga Triathlon. Swim, cycle and run, solo or in a team relay. Choose the long course or the medium course. Explore the lake and forest of Kyaninga then join your team mates and competitors for another after party to remember. Lake Kyaninga is completely safe to swim in.

What’s the difference between the triathlon, duathlon and fun run?

Triathlon. Medium course – 750 m swim, 17 km cycle, 5 km run
Triathlon. Long course – 1500 m swim, 34 km cycle, 10 km run
Duathlon. 5 km run, 17 km cycle, 5 km run
Fun run. 5 km run or walk

Each team should have two or three competitors: in a two-person team, one member will complete two disciplines. For a three-person team, each member will complete one discipline.

How much does it cost to take part in the Kyaninga Triathlon?

Full packages that include accommodation at Kyaninga Lodge and a week full of safari activities are available for international visitors.

“Race-only entry” is available to Ugandan residents. Pre-registration required.

Triathlon and duathlon. Individual entry $45 or 165k UGX. Team entry $80 or 295k UGX
Fun run. Individual entry $30 or 110k UGX. Kids under 12 $15 or 55k UGX.

Running the Rift, 42km + 21km + 10km + 5 km races. Kyaninga Lodge – November 2024

The Kyaninga (42km) marathon is a big day in the local and international running calendar. The Running the Rift 42km, 21km, 10km and 5km races take place every November. Beginners run alongside Olympians, locals run alongside visitors from around the world and everyone runs the most stunning race route imaginable. You will run high up on the Rift Valley Escarpment, looking out “as the Rwenzori Mountains melt into the East African plain.” The races are followed by a big after-party and BBQ.

To register for any of these events, please contact the event organisers directly. Email events@kyaningacdc.org or call 0778 277248 for details on how to pay. Hope to see you at one of the events – and best of luck!

The euphoric Rwenzoris!

What heights will you reach in 2021? Last year Lilly Ajarova pushed herself to summit Margherita, the Rwenzoris’ highest peak. She shares her inspiring story here.

Reaching the peak Margherita gives you a feel of being on top of the world, everything feels below you, it’s euphoric.

Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board
Margherita Peak, Rwenzoris Uganda. Lilly Ajarova UTB, Golola Moses PHOTO UNDP, UTB
Margherita Peak, Rwenzori Mountains. Uganda. Lilly Ajarova, Moses Golola. PHOTO Derrick Ssenyonyi

In December 2020, a team of climbers embarked on an ascent of Margherita Peak, the highest point in the Rwenzori Mountains at 5,109 metres (16,762 ft). The group took a nine-day fact-finding hike to Margherita Peak with Rwenzori Trekking Services in partnership with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) Uganda. You can read more about the Take on the Pearl domestic tourism campaign in Uganda in new drive to market Mt Rwenzori by Titus Kakembo. Oh how I wish I had been with them!

Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.

Lilly Ajarova

Below, Lilly shares her personal account of climbing the Rwenzoris.

Lilly Ajarova. CEO. Uganda Tourism Board. Rwenzori Mountains. Uganda #VisitUganda
Boss lady Lilly Ajarova. CEO of Uganda Tourism Board showing us how it’s done! Rwenzori Mountains. Uganda. PHOTO Derrick Ssenyonyi

When 2020 started, we all had plans, but then the unexpected happened and for most, those plans were no more.

But in all this I had one plan that I didn’t give up on: I hoped and believed I would achieve it.

My plan was to hike Mount Rwenzori in 2020. It’s not easy to explain why this was important for me but most importantly it was about pushing myself to the limits, challenging myself to do something that I would look back and say “this was worth it.”

We kept planning for the hike and postponing it until we finally settled on a date. In December, I and a group of passionate hikers started the journey.

It wasn’t easy but there was a determination by everyone that kept us going. Each time I looked at the faces of other hikers, beyond the sweat I could see a story, a story so personal that I believe each will tell theirs. We were all out there – each with a story on why they were doing this, but we all had one goal: to reach the highest peak of the Rwenzoris – Margherita!

I have challenged myself to many things over the years but this one meant a lot more. We were in the Rwenzori mountains at a time when the tourism industry has been hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. In a way we were doing this hike to bring back hope to the tourism sector, to inspire others to also take upon such challenges.

There is this unexplainable feeling you get when you reach the highest peak: it’s a moment of triumph, just that this is a different kind of triumph.

You look back at the number of days it has taken you to get here, you remember the emotional and physical strain. You’re tired but not tired. For a moment you stay silent and let it all sink in because you still can’t believe that you managed to do this. Even with all the fatigue you still gather the strength to smile for a photo moment because some memories can’t just be described by words. And then silently you just say “I did it, we did it.”

I say “We did it” because no-one can claim this achievement alone; it’s a team effort. A lot of people sacrificed and put their time in to make sure this was a success, and I am so grateful to all that made this possible.

As we come close to what has been a year full of challenges and uncertainties, my hope is that as long as we wake up each day – alive – let’s challenge ourselves to do something great. It doesn’t have to be hiking Rwenzori but let it be something that puts your spirit and determination to the test.

Let it be something that when you look back, the feeling is satisfying for you.

That’s the experience hiking Rwenzori has given me. I now – more than ever – understand what one can achieve with courage and determination.

I wish that as we start 2021, we all have something we shall challenge ourselves to. I hope that we don’t stop dreaming and having big goals. Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.

The day I came back from the hike, one of my sons asked me “So, what next now that you have reached the highest peak of Rwenzori?”

I really didn’t have an answer, but I believe that as long as we are still alive there are other highest peaks in life that we should always challenge ourselves to reach.

Wishing you all a Happy New Year and may 2021 be the year which you climb to as many highest peaks in life as possible.


Lilly Ajarova, Uganda Tourism Board #VisitUganda #TakeOnThePearl #TulambuleUganda
Hiking Mount Rwenzori Uganda #VisitUganda PHOTO UNDP, UTB
Hiking Mount Rwenzori Uganda. December 2020. PHOTO Derrick Ssenyonyi
A few highlights of Lilly Ajarova’s team climb to Margherita Peak in Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains, courtesy of Uganda Tourism Board, UNDP and Rwenzori Trekking Services

About the Rwenzori Mountains

The 996 km2 Rwenzori Mountains National Park is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, a Ramsar site (for its “wetlands of international importance”) and an Important Bird Area. And you haven’t visited yet?

Uganda’s RMNP is located in the 120km-long and 65km-wide Rwenzori mountain range that forms the border boundary of western Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is the highest mountain range in Africa. Margherita on Mount Stanley in the Rwenzoris is Africa’s third highest peak, after the volcanic peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m).

More than 70 mammal and 217 bird species have been recorded in the Rwenzoris. The best place to see these is in the montane forests at lower altitudes. Famous stand-out species you might see are the vibrant Rwenzori Turaco and an assortment of colourful chameleons.

Three-horned Chameleon Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris
Three-horned Chameleon, Ruboni Camp in the foothills of the Rwenzoris
Rwenzori Turaco Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography
Rwenzori (or Ruwenzori) Turaco, as pictured in the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography. Click on the image to visit Mark’s Facebook page

Rwenzori mammals include the eastern chimpanzee, l’Hoest’s monkey, blue monkey, golden cat, African forest elephant, (the disturbingly loud nocturnal) southern tree hyrax, yellow-backed duiker and the endangered black-fronted duiker. Did you know that 19 of the Rwenzori’s bird species are Albertine Rift endemics (meaning they are only found in this corner the world)?

Have you seen Africa’s botanical big game?

Beyond the boggy moorlands, hikers cross valleys and waterfalls, rivers and lakes as they pass through evergreen forest, bamboo forest, colourful heather, and Afro-alpine zones. It is this unusual diversity of vegetation – much of it unique to the Rwenzoris – that makes the environment so memorable. The giant lobelia and groundsels at higher elevations have earned it the name “Africa’s botanical big game.” For most hikers, the fabulous scenery of the foothills is more than enough to stretch the limbs and inspire the soul. Hiking to one of the peaks is only for the fit and the well-prepared but determination is rewarded with spectacular views from seasonally snow-capped peaks and glaciers.

Rwenzori Mountains 'Ruwenzori' Uganda
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Lilly adds “Mt. Rwenzori is the third highest mountain in Africa, it is a mountain like no other. It presents a combination of a stimulating terrain, the rarest of vegetations, sights and sounds of magnificent waterfalls and the bluest of lakes, all climaxing in breath-taking glaciers and snow-capped peaks. Rwenzori Mountains National Park presents tourists with a more fulfilling and yet, crowd-free hiking experience that you will not find on many mountains across the world.” 

Have you visited the Rwenzoris? Or do you plan to hike Margherita or Weissmann’s Peak?

Rwenzori Mountains National Park

Rwenzori Mountains National Park – a snowball fight on the Equator?

How to hike the Rwenzori Mountains. trekking ruwenzori, Uganda

The Rwenzoris lie on Uganda’s western border and are shared with the DRC. In 150 AD the philosopher Ptolemy named the ‘Mountains of the Moon’ as the Source of the Nile

Rwenzori Mountains National Park is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. According to the Uganda Wildlife Authority, “Rwenzori Mountains National Park comprises the main part of the Rwenzori mountain chain, which includes Africa’s third highest peak [Margherita Peak] at 5,109 metres above sea level. The combination of spectacular snow-capped peaks, glaciers, V-shaped valleys, fast flowing rivers with magnificent waterfalls, clear blue lakes and unique flora contributes to the area’s exceptional natural beauty. The Rwenzori mountains support the richest montane flora in Africa, encompassing the charismatic giant lobelias, groundsels, and giant heathers which have been called “Africa’s botanical big game”. 

In AD150, the geographer Ptolemy from Alexandria labelled Mt. Rwenzori “the Mountains of the Moon.” Explorers spent centuries trying to verify the Source of the Nile. (The Rwenzoris are one of the Nile’s many sources). If you are interested in geography and history, I highly recommend reading Andrew Roberts’ 2021 rewrite of his Uganda’s Rift Valley (review to be published on Diary of a Muzungu soon). One of his many sources is the book Rwenzori Mountains National Park, published in 1998 by Makerere University.

In 1888, the explorer Henry Stanley called the Rwenzori by its local name ‘Ruwenzori’, meaning ‘rainmaker’ or ‘cloud king.’ For centuries, local people were terrified of the cloud king and wouldn’t venture up into the interior of the mountain range. The appeal of jobs as tourism porters (and the ready cash that brings) has changed that, superficially at least.

Rwenzoris boardwalk view

Sunny weather can’t be guaranteed! To hike the summits, it’s recommended you climb during the dry seasons. It rains frequently in the Rwenzoris

On a clear day, the Rwenzori Mountains – the fabled ‘Mountains of the Moon’ – provide a jaw-dropping backdrop to the hills of Fort Portal. Often the Rwenzoris are simply an area we pass through on our journey between Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls but if you want tranquility, clean air and peace, this is the place to visit. Paddling in the cool, clear waters of the Rwenzori’s streams and rivers is magical. The mountain has over fifty lakes!

Three-horned Chameleon Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

Three-horned Chameleon, Ruboni Community Camp, Rwenzoris

There are dozens of walks you can do in the foothills of the Rwenzori’s without attempting to scramble to one of the peaks. Half or full day walks, camping, birdwatching, a community coffee tour, hot springs, mountain biking and treks to see waterfalls (and to find the chameleons!) are just a few activities you can do.

Rwenzori Turaco, Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda. Mark Dudley Photography

Rwenzori (or Ruwenzori) Turaco, as pictured in the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography. Click on the image to visit his Facebook page

I was invited to climb Margherita Peak with the same friends I climbed Mount Elgon with. A good level of fitness is required to climb Margherita Peak (and my knee injury prevented me going in the end). It’s very cold up in the mountains at night; during rainy season the boggy terrain can be hard going and exhausting. Global warming has substantially melted the glaciers, opening up crevasses, making the last day’s ascent a technical climb requiring the right equipment.

If you’re interested in climbing the Rwenzori Mountains, read the popular guest post How to climb Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains – trekking Margherita Peak.

Boardwalk. Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

Boardwalk at Ruboni Community Camp, Rwenzori Mountains

At Ruboni Community Camp, the accommodation is basic but the food is good. We were entranced by the early morning mist rising above the lower peaks of the Rwenzori’s. It looked as if the mountain was actually creating the clouds – is that possible?


#RwenzoriDiary week 6 – Kilembe revisited

Welcome to week 6 of my #RwenzoriDiary. The series started here 

A few weeks ago, we embarked on a fascinating tour of the Rwenzori region to research the tourism potential of Kasese, Kabarole, Ntoroko and Bundibugyo, the districts surrounding the Rwenzori mountain range. It was an eye-opening trip that has really whet my appetite for exploring the region further.

One morning we drove to the start of the Kilembe Route, one of the main routes to Margherita Peak. This trail is managed by Rwenzori Trekking Services. The last few kilometres of road are difficult and need tarmacing. The views are fabulous!

Kilembe, Kasese, Rwenzoris, Uganda. PHOTO Albert Ntambiko
Kilembe, Kasese, Rwenzoris, Uganda. PHOTO Albert Ntambiko

Our visit to Kilembe, in the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains near Kasese, showed some of the devastation the area suffered during the flash flood of 2014, in which people, bridges and houses were suddenly – and without warning – washed away.

Four people died but hundreds were injured and many lost their homes. It was not only water that gushed down the steep valley but huge boulders and rocks that wreaked serious damage. Houses were simply swept away in the path of the burst of water. Many community buildings were also damaged or destroyed, meaning that everyone in the area suffered.

Four years after the catastrophic flood, the evidence of destruction is still visible. In this short video clip, we walked over one of the new bridges across the River Nyamambwa.

Thumbnail photo credit Albert Ntambiko.

Kilembe is most famous for being the location of Kilembe Mine, currently closed. However, former mine workers continue to live in this small mining town. It’s a strange place, a mixture of dilapidated colonial-type prefabricated constructions and local houses. The area is littered with boulders, which you quickly come to realise must have thundered down the mountain at deadly speed.

Kilembe, four years after the flood

We were accompanied on our trip by James from World Wildlife Fund Uganda. He explained that the flood had probably occurred due to a combination of factors. In the lead-up to the disaster, there had been two weeks without rain (at a time of year when it normally rains every day). The area of giant Lobelia had dried out and had been burned completely. When the rains finally came, there was no vegetation left to hold the rocks together. Both the absence of rain and the fire can be seen as indicators of global warming. As for what or who started the fire, that is unknown, but natural fires are not uncommon.

You can read the technical explanations about the Kilembe flood here on the New Vision website.

A similar disaster happened in 1966.

Such incidents are thankfully very rare, however, our visit to Kilembe reminded me how vulnerable people who live in the mountains are to climate change. We saw a lot of poverty. There are few jobs and the hilly rocky terrain must be difficult to farm. This in some part explains why people feel they have no option but to enter Rwenzori Mountains National Park and poach bushmeat or cut firewood.

The purpose of our trip was to think how we can support conservation by creating job opportunities for local people. Did you know that tourism employs one in 11 people globally? Whether a porter, working in a lodge, selling vegetables or driving a boda boda, tourism offers money-earning opportunities for a cross-section of people. When they are less reliant on the land – and the protected areas in particular – conservation benefits.

Follow the #RwenzoriDiary hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 5 – A steamy adventure. Sempaya Springs, Semliki

Welcome to week 5 of my #RwenzoriDiary. The series started here 

I’m now back in Kampala and getting stuck into the marketing strategy for the Rwenzoris region.

UWA RMNP GMP 2016
This week’s reading homework!

I’m totally smitten by this fabulous and diverse part of Uganda: GIANT ‘larger than life’ plants that are fit for a filmset, my friend the Three-horned Chameleon, rivers, snow-capped peaks, glaciers, crater lakes, hot springs, unique birdlife – that you can find nowhere else in Uganda, fifty mountain lakes … the Rwenzoris has so much to discover, and that’s just the natural environment. I haven’t even touched on the region’s unique cultures and foodstuffs you only find here. Keep reading my #RwenzoriDiary.

A highlight of our trip to the Rwenzori region – of Bundibugyo, Fort Portal, Kabarole and Kasese Districts – was a visit to the Female and Male Springs at Sempaya. Semliki is a short and dramatically scenic drive to the north of Fort Portal on an excellent tarmac road. It couldn’t be easier to find.

Here’s a summary of the video transcript. We are at the Female Spring at Sempaya.

“I can smell the sulphur!” Say I.

“This spring is between 96 and 98 degrees, but not everywhere. For example, this is not as hot and the other one where we normally boil eggs.” Muhindo Leslie was our very knowledgeable UWA guide.

“Many years ago, water (from the Female Spring) used to go up to three metres in the air.

The water has lots of dissolved salts. These build up in the channels and block them. In time, that one may close, but maybe through those cracks, another one will develop. The Female Spring used to push water up three metres, as recently as 1994.”

Watch the video closely and you may spot the intrepid Andrew Roberts, searching for a photo opportunity! Look again and you may see this ka muzungu waving at you!

You can also visit the Male Spring at Sempaya. The walk between Sempaya’s two springs takes half an hour or so and takes you through Uganda (and East Africa’s) only semi-deciduous forest. It is a fragment of the DRC’s Ituri Forest. The screech of baboons fills the air as we walked through Ironwood trees and palms. It was like no other forest I’ve visited: familiar yet tropical, clammy, with more than a few insects!

Hover over the photos below to read the captions. First is the Female Spring, then the Male Spring at Sempaya, Semliki National Park.

It’s taken me an unbelievable eight years to reach Semliki.

UWA’s Patrick Tushabe screamed with surprise when I told him that! (And invited me back for a proper visit too).

Andrew Roberts, Patrick Tushabe, UWA Semliki

Why did it make me so long to visit Semliki? Back in 2009, my VSO friend Dr Richard Feinmann invited me to Semliki. I had travelled so much that year – work safari field trips to Queen Elizabeth with the Uganda Conservation Foundation, climbing Mount Elgon with volunteer friends, a rainy bank holiday weekend in Lake Bunyonyi – that I was worried I would quickly ‘do’ Uganda and run out of places to visit. I decided not to go on the Semliki trip, just so I could have at least one new place left to visit…! How wrong I was to think like that.

Do you know Uganda keeps getting bigger? How so? Perhaps it’s because it’s developing (new lodges, more activities, better roads); or perhaps it’s because I travel for more reasons than I did before. Where once I looked for wildlife encounters and physical challenges, now I’m passionate about community tourism and food culture too. And don’t think I have finally visited Semliki because it was the last remaining place to visit! Oh no, far from it.

Follow the #RwenzoriDiary hashtag on Twitter, Instagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 4 – high above Mt Kilimanjaro!

Welcome to week 4 of my #RwenzoriDiary

The series started here …

Let’s get the bad news out of the way: it’s not been a good week …. two weeks even… for training. Oh no. I was highly motivated for my Rwenzori trekking training until I was invited on a media trip to Tanzania. Bang! Self-discipline flew out of the window when I was offered mimosa (sparkling wine) for breakfast (second breakfast of the day I might add!) The seafood was too scrumptious to ignore and buffet is always my downfall. I have a whole book full of stories to tell you about our whistlestop tour of the Serena Hotels fantastic luxury properties in Tanzania, but first let me tell you about our flight from Entebbe aboard Precision Air’s inaugural flight to Dar es Salaam.

As you might remember from week one of my #RwenzoriDiary, I’m sharing two things: my training to climb one of the Rwenzori’s peaks and travel suggestions for the Rwenzoris. I’m part of the team tasked with rebranding and marketing the Rwenzoris – and wow, is there a lot I have to tell you about! Frankly, I’m pretty obsessed with mountains right now! It was therefore very exciting to fly past Mount Kilimanjaro last week. Here’s a peak out of my window…

In this short video clip, two points of mount Kilimanjaro are visible through the cloud: Uhuru Peak, 5895 metres and Mawenzi, 5149 metres. Kili comes up so often in our conversations about mountaineering and climbing tourism in East Africa. Kilimanjaro has over 50,000 climbers every year. Read the story of my friend Apollo’s Kilimanjaro trek.

Can the Rwenzoris beat that one day? Currently, of the 4,000 visitors to the Rwenzori Mountains National Park every year, just a few hundred climb to the highest point Margherita Peak. However, as my last few weeks research has revealed, climbing the Margherita is one small element of what this magnificent park has to offer.

rwenzori trekking giant Lobelia

Isn’t this scenery incredible? You don’t have to spend a week climbing the peaks of the Rwenzoris to see these giant Lobelia and other Botanical Big Game plants for yourself. Are you coming with me? 🙂

It was quite a tease for our Precision Air flight from Entebbe to Dar es Salaam to touch down on the tarmac at Kilimanjaro without me having a chance to spend a few days there getting to know the mountain and its tourists.

aerial views Kilimanjaro. Precision Air

The recently relaunched Precision Air flight from Entebbe to Dar es Salaam stops briefly at Kilimanjaro International Airport. Pictured with me are aviation and tourism expert Professor Wolfgang, and travel journalists Solomon Oleny and Edgar Batte

One of the undoubted highlights of our trip to Tanzania was the aerial views of Mt Kilimanjaro mountain. Here’s my first view of it, taken a few years ago and forever etched in my mind.

aerial views Kilimanjaro

Aerial view of Kilimanjaro. Day breaks over Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

At moments like these I have to pinch myself…I’m living the dream, aren’t I?

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 3 – don’t miss July’s Rwenzori Tourism Expo!

Welcome to week three of my #RwenzoriDiary. The series started here …

I’ve just received the most exciting hiking training opportunity: a gorilla tracking permit!

Kwita Izina gorillas Rwanda

Kwita Izina is an annual celebration of Rwanda’s success in conserving the growing mountain gorilla population. Local children come to watch the fun and listen to their favourite bands!

The Rwanda Development Board have invited me to be part of the week-long media trip to celebrate the Kwita Izina ‘gorilla naming ceremony’. Gorilla tracking is one element of the trip! This will be first week of September, so the timing could not be better for my plan to get fit and climb one of the Rwenzoris’ peaks. A good long hike uphill is perfect training for the Rwenzoris (better than running, apparently). Last week I had my longest run in a few months. God I felt GOOD! My Hasher friend Daniel was very interested to hear all about the Rwenzoris rebranding project, and my plan to climb the mountain range. “Aren’t you ready to climb already?” He asked me, as we ran together. That came as a great boost to my confidence (although we were running downhill and on the flat at the time, not quite the same as hiking up steep rocky paths and slippery slopes!) Only once I have (re)mastered the art of running a few hills will I feel prepared. My week started with a meeting with Bismac Amumpaire, the TV presenter and journalist behind the Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in Rwenzori Region, the Rwenzori Tourism Expo and the Miss Tourism Rwenzori Region (amongst many other projects!) These three projects are all based in Kasese, one of the towns at the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains. Tourists frequently drive through Kasese en route between Queen Elizabeth National Park, Fort Portal and Kibale Forest National Park.

Bismac Amumpaire, Rwenzori Tourism Expo Coordinator. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Bismac Amumpaire, Rwenzori Tourism Expo Coordinator. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

The Rwenzori Tourism Expo 2017 will be held from the 13 to 15th July at Rwenzori Square in Kasese. The expo will climax with the second edition of the crowning of Miss Tourism Rwenzori Region 2017/2018 at Uhuru Gardens in the town. Check out the poster for more info. (Last-minute booking of stalls still possible at the time of writing).

Rwenzori Tourism Expo poster 2017

Rwenzori Tourism Expo poster 2017

The Rwenzori region is one of Uganda’s tourism hubs. The region is home to various tribal groups each with a rich history and a unique culture. According to the organisers of the Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region, the walk saw a diversity of people walk together for the first time: the Bakonjo, Bamba, Batwa, Batuku, Banyabindi, visitors, the Police, DPC and RDC of Kasese, hoteliers, tour operators, Uganda Wildlife Authority, World Wildlife Fund Uganda, Rwenzori Mountaineering Services, Kasese Peace Coalition, Hotel Margherita, Sandton Hotel, Link Bus Services, Miss Tourism Uganda, politicians and government. It was certainly very colourful!

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region, Kasese. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

The theme of the walk was Sustainable Peace for Tourism. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

The 2016 Miss Tourism Rwenzori winner and runners-up. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

I wish Bismac and his team the best of luck! I was a bit sceptical initially about how a walk and a beauty pageant can help build peace but I get it now. Events like these bring the community together in a very positive way. Bismac’s drive is tangible and I’m sure this event will become a landmark event for the region. #PeaceAndTourismAreInseparable #SustainablePeace4Tourism

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 2 – Kasese pork joints & grazing at the Sheraton

Tips for hiking the Rwenzoris

I’ve received a few comments about the first entry in my #RwenzoriDiary, including “you go, I’ll meet you back at the bottom!” Irena has been giving me tips on how to avoid blisters. (Hell, had completely forgotten to factor those into the equation). There were more sobering thoughts from my friend Harriet: she said that when she climbed the Rwenzoris, they almost had to bring her down in a stretcher after two days! (I need to find out why). Jesus, another Hasher friend (pictured in last week’s #RwenzoriDiary) warns me against frostbite… but he is interested in climbing with me. Yay! (I’ll have to ask him to keep me warm then! lol). On our field trip, I read a great account of the German Ambassador’s climb to Margherita Peak. I think I’d like to meet him and find out more about his preparations.

Ambassador Schmidt of Germany Margherita Peak Rwenzori Mountains

What was going through your mind knowing you’re standing on the highest point in Uganda? “First, I was struck by how diverse Uganda is and that the majority of Ugandans have never been let alone know about the Rwenzoris. I also reflected on the serenity and the fact that you get to experience such adventure alone without many tourists crowding the place” Ambassador Schmidt

One of my main sources of information for my Rwenzori attempt is Andrew Roberts, a key member of our project team. Andy is best known for being the co-editor of Bradt Uganda, the definitive travel guidebook for tourists, and creator of Uganda’s most popular tourist maps.

Andrew Roberts. White House Hotel Kasese

“Here’s one I made earlier” Andy and his map of the Rwenzoris region on display at the White House Hotel in Kasese.

Andy is an expert on the Rwenzori region (and everywhere else in Uganda!) He is a mine of information, with a fact, observation, map and guidebook ready for every question we asked of him. If you’re reading this blog, you absolutely have to get a copy of the Bradt Guide. I continue to learn so much from this book (updated and republished every three years).

Click on the Golden Monkey to buy the Bradt Uganda Guide on Amazon

Click on the Golden Monkey to buy the Bradt Uganda Guide on Amazon

Our team spent the first night of our trip at the White House Hotel in Kasese. Incredibly good value. For just 40,000 Ugandan shillings (just over $10 USD), I had a spotlessly clean ensuite double room. This included breakfast: the regular omelette, sliced white bread and Blue Band option. I begged for some fruit and they rummaged around in the fridge to produce some watermelon! I like the White House Hotel. It brings back happy memories of Safari field trips with the Uganda Conservation Foundation.

safari field trip. UCF. Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area

A very serious muzungu on a safari field trip with UCF. Here we were working with UWA rangers to identify the new location of a ranger post in Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area, north of Lake George

“Kasese is ever hot.” Kasese is always hot. This occasion was no exception. There were few people staying at the hotel this time (although it’s frequently full of expat and NGO workers) so Andy and I stumbled through the darkness to a local pork joint. The service was laughably bad. There were two items on the menu and the waitress couldn’t remember either of them. (Interested to see what write-up that gets in the next edition of the Bradt Guide!) However, one place I would definitely recommend in Kasese is the Olimaco cafe. Luckily for our team-mate Albert, the brains behind the excellent Coffee at Last cafe in Makindye, they serve a great cappuccino and service was quick. Albert is our project graphic designer and branding expert.

Rwenzori Mountains foothills scenery

It’s easy to just drive through dusty Kasese without appreciating the fantastic mountains in the distance, but just drive 15 minutes off the main road and you will be amazed at the beautiful mountain scenery

Lake Bujuku boardwalk. Rwenzori Mountains National Park. UWA

Lake Bujuku boardwalk. Rwenzori Mountains National Park. I want to do this! Photo UWA

As for the training element of this #RwenzoriDiary, I confess, I didn’t make it to my 6 o’clock exercise class. I didn’t want to stand out in the middle of the road, in the darkness, at 5.30 in the morning hailing a random boda boda. Next time I need to pre-schedule an Uber cab. A good start today though. Actually ventured inside the gym (for the first time in a very long time) and onto the running machine. I just clicked on the start button and started walking. However, before I knew it, the machine conned me into running! It felt good, until it sped up to a running speed that I am nowhere near ready for. Still, I burnt 250 calories over approximately 40 minutes and enjoyed listening to some old running tracks. I’m feeling good. I’m feeling pumped! I attended an event at the Sheraton Kampala last night. I had knocked back my second glass of wine and munched through numerous tasty samosas and other nibbles before I remembered that endless grazing ain’t part of the programme now! I can be quite greedy, but when I’m on a training mission suddenly everything changes. Today I ate fruit salad for breakfast. What feels like denial one day makes me feel stronger another day.

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 1 – commitment!

I’m committed now. You have it in writing. There’s no going back – only up!

I don’t know when and I don’t know by which route; I don’t know who is coming with me, nor do I know which obstacles I’ll find on my path to getting fit again, but I’ve committed to climbing the Rwenzori Mountains. I’ve been looking for a new challenge, and this is it.

Diary of a Muzungu. WWF office. Conserving Rwenzori Mountains

A very proud Diary of a Muzungu outside the WWF office in the Rwenzori Mountains

A few weeks ago, I received a phone call asking if I would be interested in helping to put together a rebranding and marketing strategy for the Rwenzori Mountains region. Would I be interested? Our client is the Uganda Tourism Board and the donor is World Wildlife Fund. Interesting fact (for me, at least!) WWF is the first conservation organisation I ever encountered. In fact, ‘back in the day’ (at primary school) I was a member of the WWF’s Panda Club! I can’t tell you what an honour it is to be working with WWF-Uganda and Associate Professor Wilber Ahebwa to develop tourism in the Rwenzoris. By developing and promoting successful community tourism projects, we can help keep encroachers and poachers out of the National Parks. (Doesn’t that tell you how significant it is for young people to learn about the environment?)

And so a fortnight ago, our team (who I will introduce next week) departed for the Rwenzori region to visit a few of the key stakeholders and communities who will be part of this project. A lot of research has already been done on the ground but WWF wanted us to see for ourselves some of the tourism activities that can be developed and promoted.

Boardwalk. Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

Muzungu poses on the boardwalk at Ruboni Camp in the foothills of the Rwenzoris

I’m as guilty as the next person for having bypassed the region many times and rarely stopping. Several years ago I stayed at the excellent Ruboni Community Camp (where all profits go back to the local community). I’m delighted to hear it is still firmly on the tourist map, but like so many tourist activities in the area, it could do with a boost.

Sunlight boardwalk Ruboni Camp. Outline Rwenzori Mountains

Sunlight on the boardwalk at Ruboni Camp. Outline of the Rwenzori Mountains on the horizon

This month’s visit was the first time I actually entered Rwenzori Mountains National Park. Like most people, I thought I was too unfit to scale any of the peaks so I dismissed the whole idea of walking in the Rwenzoris, “for the timebeing.” Well, that was several years ago now.

Three-horned Chameleon Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

A chance encounter with a superb Three-horned Chameleon at Ruboni Camp in the Rwenzoris

My week in the region has been illuminating. Full-scale peak climbing is just one of the options, and only a few people will have the fitness and time to do this. There are actually dozens of shorter walks suitable for just about everyone: one day, two day, three day or more, and now I want to do all of them of course! There are an incredible 50 lakes in the Rwenzoris, waterfalls, rivers, spectacular chameleons, birdlife that you will see nowhere else, and so much more. Over the next few weeks and months I’ll be telling you a lot more about the Rwenzori region.

First, let me tell you what I’ve been doing this week.

Last Friday we had an opportunity to sit with John Hunwick, owner of Rwenzori Trekking Services. I’ve thrown a few enquiries his way thanks to a guest blog my friend Jane Goldring wrote about her Rwenzori climb with RTS (one of my most popular blogs incidentally). John was quick to invite me to climb the mountain with RTA, for free. Well Diary of a Muzungu would be nothing without complementaries (!) and this is just the opportunity I’ve been waiting for.

I’ve neglected my fitness over the last two years I’m ashamed to admit. I hurt my foot (through too MUCH exercise, ironically) and gave up while I waited for it to heal. In the meantime I’ve been getting depressed. I’ve missed hanging out with my Boot Camp and Hash House Harrier buddies… but enough already, time to get back on track.

Ethiopian Mountain Challenge

This was my best run ever! 15k non-stop run, circling Wonchi Crater Lake, and still energy left to party all night! Day two of the Ethiopian Mountain Challenge. Pictured with my Hasher friend Jesus (aka Chris)

Climbing the Rwenzoris is not going to be simple. Even at my fittest, I know I’m susceptible to altitude sickness. I felt pretty rotten on my last day of climbing Mount Elgon, and that particular summit is ‘only’ 4,321 metres. I’d love to reach one of the Rwenzoris’ peaks. The highest, Margherita Peak, is 5,109 metres.

I’ve been studying mountain climbing a lot these past weeks and if I don’t summit, it’s not going to be the end of the world. It’s not make or break (although of course I want to!) I relish these next few weeks and months of training almost as much as getting as far as the Rwenzori Mountains. I’ve done similar challenges in the past. They are a real BUZZ!

I need to get fit and I need to lose weight. Losing a few kilos will get me up the mountain a bit easier! Losing a few kilos lessons the chance of injury as well.

Positive stuff I’ve done this week! (Keeping a record keeps me motivated):

Visited Boot Camp to discuss a training schedule with our coach Diamond (didn’t actually exercise, I confess!) Walked from Naguru to Kisementi (45 minutes); ate Super Vitamin salad and healthy chia seed juice for lunch; walked the Hash (1 hour, lots of steep hills, and no beers afterwards); walked one hour today, upto the top of Naguru Hill. (I haven’t given up alcohol completely nor am I exercising every day yet, but I will get there). I have committed to a workout at 6 o’clock tomorrow morning! Gulp.

I have approached two travel writer / bloggers to climb the Rwenzoris with me. One said yes and one said no. I don’t know which worries me more. The first one said yes immediately (because he has absolutely no idea what’s involved!) The second one said no immediately (because “I climbed Mount Kenya once and my experience was so lousy when I hear mountain climbing I shudder with fright.”) I’m glad for the second reaction, it will keep me focused. I have to train for an absolute minimum of two months. If I don’t climb by mid-September, I will have missed the good weather window for this year. (Let me get on and train anyway).

Do you want to climb the Rwenzoris? Have you climbed before? Do you have any tips to help me prepare for this hiking experience? (Do you think I’m mad?)

Wish me luck!

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

Kyaninga Lodge – the dancing, running (and relaxing!) lodge

Kyaninga Lodge‘s breathtaking views

Since the recent launch of the Disney film ‘Queen of Katwe,’ Ugandans have been discussing how we can attract the film industry to film in Uganda. I first visited Kyaninga Lodge in 2011. Since then I’ve been unable to picture the lodge without imagining James Bond parachuting down into the crater lake below the lodge and jet-skiing across it! Kyaninga Lodge is unique. Read my review and you’ll quickly see why!

Kyaninga Lodge, near Fort Portal – early morning view of the crater lake from my cottage from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

What is so special about Kyaninga Lodge?

Stunning view? CHECK!

mist-morning-kyaninga-lodge-fort-portal-uganda
PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin. Early morning mist hides the crater lake from view. At one point, all I could see was the peak of the volcanic ash cone poking through the mist. In the distance are the Rwenzori Mountains

Helipad? CHECK!

helipad-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
There’s plenty of room for you to bring your helicopter!

Well-stocked bar serving the muzungu’s favourite tipple? CHECK!

kyaninga-lodge-fort-portal-bar-uganda-waragi
Kyaninga Lodge has a very well-stocked bar and sells some high quality crafts, such as the unique bicycle and truck bottle-holders displayed on the wall behind me. The profits from craft sales go to the Kyaninga Child Development Centre.

Swimming pool with ridiculously gorgeous view? CHECK!

swimming-pool-crater-lake-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
As soon as we saw the swimming pool, we wanted to jump straight in! ‘Strictly no diving and no jumping’ – from the upper veranda – says the sign…

Superb food? CHECK!

roast-beef-lunch-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
Perfect – roast beef with mashed potato
english-breakfast-at-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
Full English breakfast is a must when you plan to walk around the lake!
morning-tea-kyaninga-lodge-fort-portal-main-building
Morning tea on the balcony of Kyaninga Lodge outside Fort Portal

Fab company? CHECK!

Driving to Kyaninga Lodge from Kampala

Despite a warning that we might find the dirt road from outside Fort Portal to the Lodge to be tricky driving in the rainy season, we had no problem. We didn’t even need to engage the four-wheel drive. The 20 minute drive on dirt roads show scenes of rural Ugandan life at its most picturesque.

Richard gave us a lovely welcome upon arrival. The keys to each cottage come in a tiny cloth bag, complete with your own personal mobile phone for the duration of your stay. The main lodge living area, lodge manager and all the rooms have their own phone number which are already keyed into the phone. What a great idea.

About Kyaninga Lodge – geography

The view from the lodge shifts and changes constantly thanks to the combination of the Rwenzori Mountains (seen in the distance) and the deep water of the lake. At times the mountains are clearly visible, sometimes they are obscured by cloud; in the early morning, mist lies in the valleys. It’s breathtakingly beautiful.

Over time, two volcanic craters have come together to form one of the deepest crater lakes in Uganda. The lake plunges a formidable 224 metres into the earth. Although water of this depth should be very cold, thanks to the semi-active properties of these craters the water is a comfortable temperature for swimming.

According to the lodge’s owner and designer Steve, “the lake is warming up. They have been measuring the temperature for the last 25 years and it is due to erupt again in 10,000 years!”

The lake water has a very high mineral content which stops the formation of any algae. This, and the fact that the lake has no shallows because of its deep sides, keeps the lake Bilharzia-free. Kyaninga is therefore one of the very few Ugandan lakes that is safe to swim in. A path leads from the lodge to steps that take you down to a floating jetty at the water’s edge.

Kyaninga Lodge – cottages

view-from-my-cottage-kyaninga-lodge-near-fort-portal
Early morning view from my cottage at Kyaninga Lodge. Every cottage looks onto the crater lake

Each self-contained cottage is a little walk from all the others, meaning you have total privacy. Each cottage overlooks the crater lake and has a spectacular view of the Rwenzori’s. Every cottage has a wide self-contained veranda; no-one else can see you. Using your nifty little mobile phone, it’s possible to call for drinks to be served on your deck.

Thanks to its wooden construction, in and out, the lodge has a strong Alpine feel to it, although Steve told us he had never been inside a log cabin before he designed and built Kyaninga!

It’s wonderful to see how the lodge’s trees and beautifully landscaped gardens have matured. There is constant birdsong all day, always a healthy sign for the environment. In the valley to one side of the lodge is rumoured to be Uganda’s only lawn tennis court, which also doubles as a badminton court. Lodge guests can also play croquet and boules.

wooden-walkway-kyaninga-lodge-fort-portal
Paul relaxes on the walkway between the cottages and main building. The wooden walkways are well lit and have been treated so they are not slippery when wet

The Wi-Fi works well in the main lodge building and the rooms have three power points, so you’re well equipped for power. Helpfully, each room has an umbrella that you can use when moving between your room and the main building

Kyaninga Lodge cottage bedroom
Each of the huge Kyaninga Lodge cottage bedrooms has its own veranda and private view

Kyaninga Lodge is a labour of love and took six years to build. The timber (Eucalyptus and Elgon Olive) are found locally, as is the Semliki variety of grass, used for thatching.

Interesting fact: “Kyaninga Lodge is equipped with six fire hoses each capable of sending a jet of water over the top of the cabin or the main lodge building. The fire hoses are connected to a pump that is in turn connected to the swimming pool, meaning we have approximately 120,000 litres of water available – which should be plenty!”

The swimming pool itself is carved out of the rock face.

lighting fire Kyaninga Lodge living area
Lighting the open fire at Kyaninga Lodge – a welcoming start to the evening

The main lodge building sits at the summit of one of the area’s famous rolling hills. The individual cottages hug the brow of the hill and slope down to either side of the main building in an equilateral pattern. The high ceilings and bare wood give a feeling of space. I imagine it might get chilly here but every evening, around sunset, the open fireplace is lit as guests congregate for pre-dinner drinks.

In addition to the main dining area, guests can choose to dine privately in one of the upstairs galleries.

What can you do at Kyaninga Lodge?

There’s a long list of complimentary activities:

  • – Swimming in the lodge pool.
  • – Lawn tennis, badminton, croquet and boules (lodge guests can borrow tennis balls and rackets from the Lodge).
  • – Crater rim walk
  • – Two private terraces below the swimming pool are perfect for a sundowner. One of the terraces even has a small fireplace.
  • – Birdwatching
  • – Swimming in the crater lake
  • – Village and cultural walk
  • – Forest walk inside the crater for a good chance of seeing monkeys and forest birds and the chance to peer inside a bat cave!

Kyaninga Lodge, crater rim walk

On our first morning, we set off on a circumnavigation of the crater lake ‘the crater rim walk’ below the lodge. We took our time, stopping every few minutes for photographs, admiring Kyaninga from different angles as we passed through fields of crops. The farmers told us of the crops they were planting: Irish potatoes, beans, cassava and yam. We saw fabulous birds including Cinnamon-chested Beeeaters, a male black and white Pin-tailed Wydah bird (complete with its long breeding plumage), an African Open-billed stork and a striking black and red Ross’s Turaco. The walk took us around two hours.

A spot of birdwatching – before breakfast

On our second morning, we’d arranged for one of the lodge staff to take us on a short birdwatching walk in the grounds of the lodge. I’m so glad we got up early and had a chance to catch the magical sight of the mist over the lake. The birdwatching was a bonus!

Birds we spotted included: Baglafect Weaver, Copper sunbird, Black-crowned Tchagra, Fan-tailed Widowbird, White-browed Robinchat, African Fish Eagle, Red-billed Firefinch, Tawny flanked Prinia.

African Firefinch “like posho” said our guide. “You often see them congregating outside houses where people are washing their plates.”

We listened to two different types of monkey: the Vervet and the black-and-white Colobus, who were chattering and communicating with each other from different sides of the lake. The guide told us that baby Colobus are born with white fur.

He also explained the medicinal uses of the Omunyara tree and the ‘Five-fingered leaf plant.’

More activities at Kyaninga Lodge

There are a range of massages and beauty treatments available.

To explore the area further, the lodge can organise:

  • – Walks in the Great Rift Valley – at the edge of the escarpment you can see the vast expanse which is the convergence of the Congo basin and the Great Rift Valley.
  • – Mountain biking to Semliki Safari Lodge.
  • – Kyaninga Lodge is a convenient base for exploring Kibale Forest, Semliki National Park, Queen Elizabeth National Park and the Rwenzori Mountains.
  • – Visit Toro Botanical Gardens in Fort Portal and the Toro Golf Club, a nine-hole golf course which is open to non-members.

Can you dance? Would you like lessons from a pro?

The second ‘So Kyaninga can dance’ was held in 2017. The event was held on Kyaninga Lodge‘s purpose-built dancefloor.

So Kyaninga can dance May 13th 2017
‘So Kyaninga can dance’ was held at Kyaninga Lodge in 2017

Can you run? Swim? Cycle?

Another popular event held at Kyaninga Lodge is the Kyaninga Triathlon. Read about all the sporting events on this blog post, which I update every year.

kyaninga-triathlon-swimming-crater-lake PHOTO Olive Nakiyemba
Triathlon competitors prepare to swim in Kyaninga’s crater lake. PHOTO Olive Nakiyemba

Before I sign off…

To enquire about lodge availability, email info@kyaningalodge.com or call +256 772 999750. Remember to say the muzungu sent you 😎

How to climb Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains – trekking Margherita Peak

Are you thinking of climbing Margherita Peak or trekking the Rwenzori Mountains? Then read this first!

Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Jane Goldring, with photos for this story kindly provided by her husband and brilliant photographer Paul.

If you’re planning to climb Margherita, or just interested in hiking or mountain climbing in Uganda, look no further. Below Jane’s story, you’ll find a Rwenzori trekking packing list and some travel advice on how to plan your Rwenzori hike, as well as links to other East African mountain climbing stories (notably How to Climb Mount Kilimanjaro – tales of a novice climber and A girl called Kevin: Climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda).

Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita. Rwenzori Trekking Services Kilembe Trails map Uganda

Rwenzori Trekking Services Kilembe Trails map Uganda

Jane writes: 

Rwenzori trekking – Day one

After an early start and a traditional Western breakfast, we left Kasese for the start of our Rwenzori trek, a 30 minute drive out of town past the Margherita Hotel towards Kasese Cobalt mine. We had been warned we could not get right the way up to the Rwenzori Trekking Services office due to a flood and rock slide which had taken out the bridge and last part of the road. Finding our guides Moses and Richard en route, we had help hauling our luggage up the hill to the RTS offices, where it was time for the formalities: sharing details of medical issues, insurance, food allergies and emergency contacts. It was here that we signed up the sixteen porters needed to carry our luggage, equipment, fuel, food and other supplies our group would need to trek the Rwenzori Mountains.

Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita. rwenzori trekking ruwenzori

Rwenzori trekking: the adventure started even before Jane had entered the National Park – the road from Kasese had been swept away…. How to hike Margherita Peak

And so at 9:45am we started trekking up the road past the dilapidated mine housing estate which was buzzing with life: ducks in the muddy gulleys, chickens, goats and even a pig or two, as well as people going about their daily life in the little duuka shops, bars and houses with long lines of clothes washing.

At the entrance of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, trekking formalities concluded with payment of park entry fees (see Tips section of this article for the different tariffs).

Now in the Park, we started up the path in a single file through forested slopes and arrived at the first stopover, Sine Hut, at about 4:00pm. At 2596 metres, Sine Hut is situated on top of a long ridge amongst pine and other trees. Steep slopes on either side of the ridge lead down into deep valleys and amply flowing rivers. Similar to a traditional Alpine wooden hut, Sine Hut has a terrace and four sets of bunk beds. A flask of hot water for tea and bowl of fresh water for washing awaited us, after which our short exploration of the area revealed a valley river and a small waterfall of icy water.

Back at Sine Hut, it was time for our first dinner up the mountain. Our three course meal of soup, main and dessert was very tasty, with huge quantities of carbohydrates that we struggled to finish. A couple of rounds of cards and soon we were feeling rather tired and so, not long after dark, we all retired to bed as mist started to roll in with the cool air.

Rwenzori trekking – Day two

Day two’s trekking started at 8:30am (after a hearty breakfast of cereal, omelette, toast and bacon too!) through a forested area, with glimpses of more Rwenzori foothills through the gaps in the trees ahead. We were lucky to see L’Hoests monkeys and heard the calls of Rwenzori Turacos – but did not see any yet. Due to the last few months’ excessive rains, we also saw areas of landslides where the ground seemed to still be sliding down the mountainside. As the mist rolled in, we saw no more. We walked along the path on the mountain’s edge; while we figured there was a steep drop, we could not see anything. The path became rockier and, as we scrambled over rocks, we focused our energy and vision on each step in front of us.

ruwenzori. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita.

Waterfalls. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita.

Our lunchtime sandwiches next to a fast flowing river were interrupted when the heavens suddenly opened. We changed into our gum boots (or Wellington boots as the British call them) and rain gear and set off again almost immediately – trying to beat the weather. After some time I realized that I was feeling very cold and wet. Guess what? The freezing cold rain – we were now over 2000 metres high – was going directly through that wonderful North Face jacket from Kathmandu. Luckily my porter was nearby and I had a spare rainjacket (a cheapie ‘security guard style one’ from Entebbe Supermarket). The spare rainjacket and dry sweater saved the day, even if I didn’t look as fashionable as the rest of the party in their good quality rainjackets.

Shrouded in mist and wet from the recent rain, the Alpine zone plants were a little unreal; the wonderland of large overpowering plants and trees draped in white “Old Man’s Beard” (Usnea) gave me the feeling of being in a movie set.

Our next camp – Mutima Cave – was at an altitude of 3688 metres. Here a couple of tents were placed under a rocky overhang forming a rather makeshift, but very welcoming, overnight stop. We enjoyed an evening keeping warm around the fire and chatting with two very energetic and fit Dutch ladies who proudly told us they had just managed to summit Margherita Peak. They had lost a day due to bad weather and so had just completed two days of Rwenzori trekking in just one day – 10 hours of fast hiking – so that they could keep to their tight schedules. A little daunting for us not quite so fit ones.

Rwenzori trekking – Day three

Being now seasoned mountaineers, after two days on the go, we were up and ready in no time at all with our gum boots on (and taped to our waterproof trousers, just to be sure), sun gear, enough layers of clothing to put on / take off as the need arose, our snacks ready at hand and lots of drinking water.

The day begun a little cool and dull, but with no rain to begin with, which we were pleased about as this was our first real day of hiking through the bogs. Negotiating the boggy ground requires you watch every step to ensure the ground really is solid, or at least only a shallow bit of mud, as you zig zag upwards as a cross. A long walking pole proved to be well worthwhile here.

By 11:00 am the skies had opened again and we trudged along in the rain for a good part of the day with visibility not much more than a few metres at a time. In the afternoon, the weather improved and the sun came out and we suddenly saw the wonderful views of the Rwenzori Mountains – range after range of them. It also became very noticeable how the whole area we had been walking through had been badly damaged during the fire of February 2012.

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Fire damaged vegetation is starting to regrow. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita.

Burnt stumps of trees or bushes were everywhere; fortunately, new small plants and shoots were appearing but I have been told it may take up to 20 years for these areas to fully recover since many plants grow at quite a slow rate at this high attitude.

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Glimpse of the peaks. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita Peak

By 11:00 am we had reached the high point of 4400 metres and were at the top of the pass where you have views towards Mount Stanley and Baker’s. The sun was shining and, despite the altitude headache, we could not have enjoyed clearer, better views. This is what we had come to see – wonderful indeed!

Next, we began the descent to another river valley; you might think that going down would be easier but not in the Rwenzoris – still you need to balance and check where to step (plus endure the continual impact on your knees as you land your weight on each one). Seeing a Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird enjoy the weather was a highlight of our two 2 hour hike to the bottom of the hill. After lunch we set off again “just around the corner” of a lake, as our guide Richard called it. We continued around the tranquil-looking lake on what appeared to be a used route (but not what you would call a path as there were huge boulders higher than me) as well as clips, hills and weaving areas of mud that we had to make our way through.

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Descent to a river valley – not as easy as it looks! Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

By this stage our fit and fast hiker Helen was way ahead with Moses, one of our guides. Next there were me and Andrew with Paul bringing up the rear, all coping in our various personal ways with the hiking conditions.

Our guide Richard was doing a wonderful job, showing me the best routes and where to step. At other times he hung back to help ensure Andrew and Paul were coping well too. By around 4:00 pm we were “around the corner” (which you may have gathered was not quite the usual corner we imagine but rather longer indeed) and in a valley. Here we could see the next section of our hike towards our next camp: Hunwick’s Camp at 3974 metres, which of course was over the next hill and into the next valley… We started through the bog again – tussock-hopping and choosing as many ‘low mud impact footholds’ as we could and then up the hill……quite a tough one for the end of a long day like this. We eventually rocked into Hunwick’s Camp at around 6.00 pm totally exhausted and feeling like we have reached the end of our energy levels. Thank goodness the weather had held and we were able to see the wonderful views of Mount Baker with its snow and glacier blinking in the late afternoon sun.

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View from Hunwick’s Camp. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita Peak

The headache was there again and some swelling of our face and ankles were starting to be apparent (first signs that our bodies were not doing well in the altitude). Andrew’s feet were killing him as he was wearing gum boots with such thin soles he felt he could “tell if a coin placed underneath his boot was head or tails.”

That night was cold. Despite two sleeping bags, two layers of clothes, my hat and a fleece over the top of that, the wind whistled around our camp and seemed to find cracks to blow directly into my back. Getting up for the inevitable night time pee was not fun and I came back to bed exhausted from the effort, feeling quite short of breath at times. It was at this point that I began to wonder what I was doing all this for.

Rwenzori trekking – Day four – and a day off

The next morning my small mirror revealed a new face – one that was so puffy and swollen that my eyes were just small slanty slits, the effect of not coping well with the altitude, I was told. I therefore decided I would not go on further to Margherita Peak but rather have a rest day and then return downwards (which actually involved going back up to 4400 metres before the real descent). Andrew and Paul followed suit while we waved Helen off as she decided to push onto the Peak.

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A day’s rest at Lake Kitandara. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

We spent the day relaxing and enjoying sunshine, taking a stroll down into the nearby valley near the twin lake of Kitandara. It felt wonderful to walk without time pressure and to stop and enjoy the scenery.

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A botanist’s dream: the Rwenzori plants are out of this world – huge and strikingly beautiful.

We stopped at Lake Kitandara Hut, where we met a geology student with her team. She explained that Mount Baker has risen at least 3 mm each year for the last few years, possibly due to extreme heat and pressure in the base of the Rwenzori Mountain range in the earth’s crust. The mountain is actually moving slowly northwards too.

We basked in the late afternoon sunlight until it disappeared behind the tops of the mountains – and evening arrived quite suddenly.

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Space age insulated accommodation! Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

The accommodations were very comfortable, especially considering where we were. We slept in two rounded, framed huts with waterproof outer covers and insulated walls. Each hut has four sets of bunk beds. Meals and copious cups of tea are taken at the tables and benches in the separate dining tent.

Rwenzori trekking – Day six

After a rather restless night worrying about going back up the mountain to go down, we woke early. After our usual heavy breakfast, we hiked back down into the valley “Around the Corner” and back along the lakeside before taking a short break and then heading up the river valley again. It was tough going and quite warm too. The stream provided wonderful clean water to help quench our thirst and, closer to the top, we looked backward for a full view of so many mountains: Mount Stanley and numerous peaks, including Alexandra, Elena and Mount Speke, Mount Baker, Weisman and other peaks we tried to identify thanks to the lovely, clear blue skies.

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Watching the world go by… Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

Over the top of the Banwanjara Pass, we sat for some time watching the clouds move up and around Mount Stanley tantalizing us as we kept hoping to see Margherita Peak. As clouds cleared, we watched; at the last moment the clouds would change their minds and U-turn to block out that section again and again. The sun was lovely and warm and the striking views all around us were perfect; just what we felt we deserved after all the tough hiking.

However it was not over yet for the day and reluctantly we moved down through the areas of open rock, bogs and riverbeds full of boulders, previously climbed in misty, wet conditions. Evidence of the fire of 2012 was quite prevalent in this area and, looking back towards Kasese, we could see range after range of Rwenzori Mountains, making us realize the large distance we had covered over the last few days.

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Bugata Camp. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

Arriving at Bugata Camp was like returning home: warm showers and hot cups of tea were ready for us. This time we had the pleasure of swapping mountain stories and sharing the camp with visitors who had just completed Margherita Peak.

Rwenzori trekking – Day seven

From this point, we had to decide which final route we would take down the mountain: the different (harder) route or the same (easier) route by which we came up. We opted for the easier route in the end (I think our guides and porters were quite pleased with our choice too).

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Board walks help trekkers cross bogs and swamps. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

The route that had taken us over 7 hours up, now only took us around 5 hours down, even with stopping to photograph many of the plants and scenery we had missed due to the bad weather on the upward journey.

We were back at Mutima Cave by mid-afternoon, where it was time to reorganize our luggage, dry out our socks by the fire and munch our way though some of our leftover snacks – suddenly with the lower altitude we were feeling peckish. After dinner we sat around the fire recounting stories and sipping our little flask of Whiskey or Amarula that we now felt it was safe to consume (apparently alcohol is not good for you at altitude) until we finally retired to bed, feeling rather relaxed and more comfortable at this lower altitude.

Rwenzori trekking – Day eight

A relaxed start of the day, heading for Kalalana Camp at 3134 metres which we had passed on our route. Here the beautiful Giant Lobelia stand almost two metres high with their long stems, purple flowers and leaves that hold the rainwater like a basin. Next we entered the Heather Zone. This same low-lying bushy plant (typical of the British countryside) grows into trees of over 15 metres high; often their branches are covered in the white Old Man’s Beard. Presumably we had become more hardy and a bit fitter; whilst the route was still quite rocky or boggy at times, we found the route quite pleasant and enjoyable. Through the day we had clear views back towards Kasese Town, making us realize how far we had hiked and why we felt quite tired from the exertion of the last week.

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The vegetation is larger than life! Giant Lobelia. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

By around 3:00 pm we were in camp where we relaxed in the afternoon sunshine, feeling so much more energetic now that we were down to just 3100 metres. We sat down to hear Helen tell us about her journey to the Peak: Margherita. She had enjoyed a cloud- and wind-free morning – perfect conditions for a summit day.

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Not everyone manages to summit Margherita Peak – but Helen did. Rwenzori trekking: snow on the Equator!

We heard how tough it was hiking in crampons up the two glaciers and how she’d had to step over deep, dodgy-looking crevices in the ice. Helen had succeeded in reaching the Peak at 5109 metres above sea level – quite an achievement for sure.

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Margherita Peak is 5109 metres above sea level

Our last evening up the mountain, we celebrated with the last few snacks and a good dinner of fresh roasted chicken (that had miraculously arrived up the mountain from a resupply from Kasese), the last of our “bar” and swapped anecdotes from the journey of the last eight days. By 10:00 pm we were all fast asleep, even with the wind howling and the rain battering our hut roof.

Rwenzori trekking – Day nine

The last day arrived with gloomy skies threatening rain but nothing could scare us now, so off we set again downwards, through the bamboo zone, slipping and sliding down the slopes and into the afro Alpine mountain forest zone. We wound our way down very steep paths that I could not quite believe I had managed to climb only a week earlier. The path seemed to go on forever and it was only around 2:00 pm that we made it to a recognizable point. At the park entry gate, the same clerk who had signed us in to Rwenzori Mountains National Park now asked us to sign out.

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Three-horned Chameleon putting on a show for the cameras. Rwenzori trekking Ruwenzori Mountains, Uganda

The final hour Rwenzori trekking was through hillside villages and finally onto the road via the Kasese Cobalt Mine village and the Rwenzori Trekking Services office and home base where we were warmly welcomed back – and offered an ice cold beer – just the ticket indeed! After a few photos and a small award ceremony with our guides and porters who had been so patient and helpful the whole journey, we headed to Ndali Lodge for a couple of nights of rest and relaxation after this epic journey.

What a sense of achievement we all felt having made it up the mountain and back and experiencing everything it had to offer – both positive and negative – sunshine, rain, cold, mud, wonderful views, plants, birds, beauty, balancing challenges and much more.

ABOUT THE WRITER: Jane and her husband Paul Goldring are co-owners of destination management company G&C Tours Ltd, owners of Wild Frontiers Uganda, one of Uganda’s leading tour operators. Their “who’s who” of famous celebrity, TV and film maker clients choose to stay at Exclusive Camps Uganda’s fabulous Ishasha Wilderness Camp in Queen Elizabeth National Park, the sensational Buhoma Lodge in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and – the latest addition – Baker’s Lodge in Murchison Falls National Park. The company’s unique Platinum Mobile camping services (incorporating chartered fly / drive options) provide flexible luxury accommodation across the country.

Planning your Rwenzori trekking – what to consider before you book

About the Rwenzori Mountains

Rwenzori Mountains National Park was gazzetted [made into a national park] in 1991 and is recognized as both a World Heritage site and a Ramsar site. The park is 996km2 and the mountain range’s highest point is Margherita Peak – 5,109m above sea level – on Mt Stanley, a mountain that is bisected by the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo. The Rwenzoris were christened the “Mountains of the Moon” by the Alexandrine geographer Ptolemy in AD 150. Read more about the

Rwenzori Mountains National Park on the Uganda Wildlife Authority web site.
Route

Remember: you don’t have to climb – or summit – Margherita Peak itself. There are a range of shorter hiking options, all with the same dramatic backdrops.

Best time of year for Rwenzori trekking

Feedback from friends suggests that January, February and March are the best months to trek as it is the driest time of the year.

I almost climbed the Rwenzori Mountains… I had just I climbed Uganda’s Mt. Elgon with volunteer friends, but my knee injury on day one of our five-day trek meant I was still out of action when my friends summited the Rwenzori’ s Margherita Peak that November. When I asked whether they had enjoyed their trip, they said NO! …. After all their planning and training? I couldn’t quite believe it! Their mistake? They had chosen to hike during the rainy season when certain sections of the trek are hellishly boggy, making progress very difficult and tiring. Time your hike right, and you will enjoy this once-in-a-lifetime experience far more.

Fitness and medical issues

Rwenzori trekking requires a good level of fitness. You will be asked about your general health when you book your trek.

Altitude sickness can be a problem for many people. I know, I’ve had it. It’s not nice. (Think combination of seasickness and sunstroke, with a banging headache for good measure). The best way to avoid altitude sickness is to ascend slowly. It’s highly recommended that you consider taking a day off mid-climb, as Jane did, to acclimatise to the high altitude. Even if you don’t summit, you may benefit from a day’s rest and acclimatisation. Having experienced altitude sickness myself, I will definitely take a rest day when I climb the Rwenzoris.

Insurance

If you’re planning to climb the Ruwenzori’s, particularly if you are climbing Margherita, you are advised to take out travel insurance.

Emergency contacts

You will need to provide these when you sign the disclaimer form before starting your trek.

Who to trek the Rwenzoris with

Rwenzori Trekking Services are generally acknowledged as the best operator in Uganda for trekking the Rwenzoris. Their tours are inclusive of Rwenzori Mountains National Park entry fees, which are $35/day (2020 price for international tourists ‘foreign non-resident’ visiting the Rwenzoris).

Uganda’s National Park entry fees vary according to the park visited and whether you are Ugandan, East African resident or a tourist ‘foreign non-resident.’ Download the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s Tariff (price list) 2020-2022 which contains all National Park entry fees, hiking, gorilla and chimp tracking permits, birdwatching, boat cruises and more.

Planning your Rwenzori trekking – what to pack

Hire a Porter

Porters are allowed to carry a maximum of 15 kg each. This will include your clothes, hiking and camping equipment and all your food. The porters will collect firewood and water every evening for you at camp so you only need to carry one day’s personal supply of drinking water at a time. Do not even think of climbing without the help of a porter – not only will you be able to focus on enjoying the breath-taking scenery, you’re providing valuable employment. Expect to pay $15 per porter per day. A tip of $5-10 per day will make your porter very happy indeed.

Ranger guides

Since you will be walking in the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, you will be allocated two or more armed Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers who will act as your guides throughout the trip. Expect to be Facebook friends by the end of it! These guys will also appreciate a tip.

Walking pole

Invaluable! No need to spend money on one of those fancy walking poles, just ask one of the guides to cut down a piece of bamboo for you.

Waterproof clothing

Don’t scrimp on the quality of your rain jacket. It can make or break your trip. Ensure you only buy the best quality and make sure it is tested. It’s a vital part of your kit on this mountain where it can rain for days on end.

What to carry in your day pack

Your day pack (personal rucksack) should contain your waterproof jacket and waterproof trousers, drinking water, sunscreen, mosquito repellent and snacks.

Snacks

Stock up on plenty of your favourite snacks. G’ nuts (groundnuts), biscuits, bananas and dried fruit will give you more energy than chocolate and sweets.

Water

To keep hydrated at altitude, you will need to drink at least two litres of drinking water per day, even in cold weather. The porters collect and boil water every night. By the time you drink it the next morning, it will have cooled nicely.

Footwear

Hiking boots with ankle support are the best option. Leave your trainers at home, they don’t have enough grip. If you plan to wear Wellington ‘gum’ boots, get some good insoles. My recommendation is to wear ankle-high boots with gaiters, which will keep out a lot of rain and water (and most insects).

Hot water bottle

I love Jane’s tip about the improvised water bottles! However, you could take a proper hot water bottle with you (I certainly will! I remember how bloody cold it was on Mount Elgon at night…) Remember, you will have a porter to carry everything for you.

The Muzungu: thanks Jane for sharing your great adventure! I’m seriously considering trekking the Rwenzoris now – I know how hard it was to get as far as you did, and you’ve proved to me that there is no need to push yourself to the extreme and summit. What a brilliant experience you’ve had!

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