Trunk call: Jim Nyamu walks across East Africa to protect elephants
Have you heard about Jim Justus Nyamu’s cross-continental walks? Read about Ivory Belongs to Elephants’ East-Central Africa campaign walk
An amazing feat! 🐘 (Or should I say feet?) 👣
Jim campaigns tirelessly to protect elephants. He’s walked 1000s of miles / km and this is his 16th Campaign Walk for Elephants. His aim: to encourage African nations to work closely to protect this species that knows no borders.
Jim Justus Nyamu, *OGW, is the Founder and Executive Director of the Elephant Neighbors Center, a non-profit whose mission is “to protect the African Elephant and secure landscapes for elephants outside protected areas.” The brand Ivory Belongs to Elephants™ focuses on raising awareness locally, nationally, and internationally of the plight of African Elephants, primarily through their advocacy walks.
The East-Central Africa walk started in Nairobi, Kenya, on July 29th and passed through Nakuru, Mau Forest, Tinderet, Kakamega and Malaba (Mount Elgon). In Uganda, Jim walked through Mabira Forest, Kampala, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mbarara, Lake Mburo and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; now in Rwanda, Jim will visit Kigali, and Akagera National Park; and onto Goma, Virunga National Park, Okapi Wildlife Reserve, and Garamba National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. This four-month walk will cover approximately 3,200 km. The walks offer solutions to mitigating human-wildlife conflict and highlight the direct importance of wildlife to affected communities.
This most iconic of African species is being pushed towards extinction – slaughtered by poachers to supply a worldwide ivory trade worth up to US$20 billion a year. Despite a ban in many countries, the killing is only getting worse. There are now estimated to be only 350,000 elephants left in Africa, with approximately 20,000 being killed every year. African elephants will be extinct in our lifetime if this rate of loss continues.
Ivory belongs to elephants press release
Elephants are crucial in:
- dispersing seeds +
- keeping the habitat open for grazing animals +
- fighting climate change by contributing to natural carbon capture +
- attracting millions of tourists who make substantial contributions to sub-Saharan Africa’s economies +
- so much more!
Jim and his team have been walking to raise awareness since 2013. By the end of the current campaign, they will have walked almost 20,000 km across Africa, the United States, and the UK, connecting with over 16,000 schools, and holding over 900 community meetings along the the campaign walks.
Jim also walks in the US and Europe to raise awareness in international communities that are still trading in ivory. For example, despite the 2018 announcement of the UK government’s plans to ban sale and export of most ivory items, the trade in ivory and live elephants is still legal in several countries.
If you see Jim, why not join the walk for an hour or even a day? 👣
Better still, you can support the team on the ground by making a donation. (I know how grim it is to try and sleep in a soggy tent!)
You can send directly to Jim Justus Nyamu via Momo +256 784755115 or Mpesa +254 713353060 or donate on the Ivory belongs to elephants gofundme page. Find out more on the Ivory belongs to elephants on Facebook.
(*OGW is the Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya is an award presented to individuals in recognition of an outstanding service rendered to the country).
Do Rwanda’s baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?
“Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony?” has to be one of the funniest questions I’ve ever been asked!*
The #FOMO [Fear Of Missing Out] is real this week as Rwanda hosts a week-long celebration of conservation and tourism, most visible at the 19th edition of Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony on Friday 1st September. It’s a brilliantly organised event that attracts people from near and far: locals attend for the free performances by local artistes; international ambassadors jet in to name baby gorillas; the rest of us love networking with tourism and conservation colleagues from across Africa as we tour the country and experience The Land of a Thousand Hills‘ growing list of attractions.
What is Kwita Izina?
Kwita Izina is modelled on a tradition in which Rwandans come together as a community to name their children. Since 2005 this has become an official, public event and a global celebration of nature and Rwanda’s commitment to sustainable and responsible tourism. It’s no accident that the Chief Guest is President Kagame and many of his supporters; but you have to hand it to him, this is a really slick show.
374 mountain gorillas have been named over the last 18 years of Kwita Izina.
Rwanda works hard to thank the vets, conservationists, wildlife rangers, donors, tourism experts, international influencers and of course the local community. Media from all nations are in abundance at every event. But this is far more than a free day out for the local community; it’s a public celebration of Rwanda itself too.
What happens at the gorilla naming ceremony?
I’ve been hosted media at Kwita Izina on a number of occasions, courtesy of Rwanda Development Board and The Gorilla Organization. These were great opportunities to research my updates for Horizon Guides and for the Rwanda chapter of Fodor’s Travel’s “The Complete Guide to the African Safari” (and Diary of a Muzungu too of course!)
In 2013 I wrote BINGO! Rwanda’s Kwita Izina, gorilla naming ceremony. That year I was a guest of The Gorilla Organization NGO, thanks to Jillian Miller and TGO Chair Ian Redmond. It was an honour to interview Kwita Izina‘s creator Rosette Rugamba at Hotel Muhabura, made famous by Dian Fossey.
Who gets to name Rwanda’s gorilla babies? What do the given names mean? And what is the format of the Kwita Izina event?
You’ll be amazed at the diversity of the attendees! Read more in Celebrating gorillas at “the best Kwita Izina ever!” my account from 2018.
Who will name the gorillas at Kwita Izina in 2023?
- Bukola Elemide, known as Asa, French singer, songwriter, and recording artist
- Danai Gurira, Actress, activist and playwright
- Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser Al-Missned, Co-Founder and Chairperson, Qatar Foundation
- Bernard Lama, SG Legend
- Sol Campbell, Arsenal Legend
- Idrissa Akuna “Idris” Elba OBE and Sabrina Dhowre Elba
- British actor, producer, and musician. Sabrina is a Canadian model and spouse to Idris Elba
- Cyrille Bolloré, CEO, Bolloré
- H.E. Hazza AlQahtani, Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates to the Republic of Rwanda
- Rt. Hon. Andrew Mitchell MP, Member of Parliament of the United Kingdom
- Joakim Noah, Former professional basketball player
- Kevin Hart, Comedian and Actor
- Winston Duke, Actor and Producer
- Jonathan Ledgard, Novelist
- Zurab Pololikashvili, Secretary General of the United Nations World Tourism Organizations
- Audrey Azoulay, Director General of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation
- Anders Holch Povlsen, CEO of Bestseller retail clothing chain
- Larry Green, Trustee, African Wildlife Foundation Board
- Joe Schoendorf, Silicon Valley Pioneer
- Nick Stone, Lead director of Wilderness Safaris
- Innocent Dusabeyezu
- Ineza Umuhoza Grace, Founder and CEO of the Green Protector
- Elvine Ineza, Primary Six Student at Regina Pacis School in Musanze District
- Queen Kalimpinya, Rwandan Rally Car Driver and Gender Equality Advocate
Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?
*No, the mountain gorillas do not attend the naming ceremony “in person”. They are safe in the sanctuary of Volcanoes National Park blissfully unaware of the thousands of people gathered to celebrate and advocate for their continued survival.
Did you know that if you visit Rwanda during the first week of September, you can get a free invitation to attend Kwita Izina?
If you’re planning to track the gorillas in Rwanda, visit at the end of August or the beginning of September and you can get a free invitation to Kwita Izina. There is tight security (President Kagame attends every year) so invitations need to be planned well in advance through a tour operator or conservation organisation. Other related activities this week include the 2-day Business of Conservation Conference in Kigali, a conservation exhibition and a gala dinner.
Another uniquely Rwandan event that takes place during the same period is the Red Rocks Cultural Festival, in nearby Musanze.
Looking for a tour operator to help you plan a trip to Rwanda or Uganda? Check out my Travel Directory or contact the muzungu.
The year of saying YES
Revenge travel: with the freedom to travel again, in 2022 I said yes to every travel opportunity that came my way!
Before 2023 swallows me in a frenzy of work, I’m taking a moment to reflect on the 365 days in which I continued to piece my life back together as the world reopened for tourism. Just as we were getting up to speed post-pandemic (with summer bookings almost as busy as 2019) Uganda tourism was dealt a blow by the recurrence of Ebola. Would you believe it, we groaned collectively. Tour operators had only just resumed “real work” after two years of farming goats and washing cars; but anyway THANKFULLY the Ebola outbreak has officially been declared over, so let me say no more.
If 2020 was a write-off, and we “woke up” mid-2021, I’ll sum up 2022 as the year I said a resounding yes to everything. (And if 2021 was the year of the big resignation, surely 2022 must have been the year of the big burnout!) In 2022, I was so busy looking for new opportunities and answering travel queries that there was little time for creative writing on my beloved blog. Don’t worry dear reader – or listener? – in 2023, I promise to inspire you once more! This year’s project is a podcast, launching soon… but first…
Fodor’s Travel’s Complete Guide to the African Safari
One of 2022’s highlights was updating the Uganda and Rwanda chapters of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Fodor’s have been writing guidebooks for over 80 years.
If you’re researching a destination listed in this blog post, know that I have visited them personally in 2022. This means that you can read about them in the Fodor’s Guide or send me an enquiry. This post is a compilation of 2022’s social media updates. Stand-out moments – which made the long drives, Bwindi’s terrible roads, and the endless proof-reading of the guidebook worth it! – include:
UGANDA travel highlights
- Listening to hyenas howling as I stretched out in bed at the glorious Ishasha Wilderness Camp, southern Queen Elizabeth National Park.
- Adding five ‘lifers’ to my bird list in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park during my stay at Mount Gahinga Lodge.
- Celebrating the tenth anniversary of Rwakobo Rock Lodge in Lake Mburo.
- Ferry rides and kayaking in search of otters on the very cool Banda Island, Kalangala (Ssese Islands).
- Dinner at the Bungee Bar overlooking the River Nile at Jinja.
- The Uganda Railway Museum at Jinja railway station.
- Driving across the Nile’s ferocious white waters at Karuma Falls en route to Pakwach and West Nile.
- Being one of the judges of the Miss Rwenzori Tourism Final in Kasese.
- Flying over Lake Victoria and Lake Mutanda towards the Virunga volcanoes with Aerolink.
- Driving every rocky road around Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, from Nkuringo to Rushaga, Ruhija and Buhoma.
- Visiting every lodge in Lake Mburo National Park.
- Buying straw hats in Mbarara!
- Taking a tour of Emburura Farm Lodge.
What an amazing welcome we had from the Batwa community of Mgahinga. Interaction with this ancient forest tribe are always memorable. I asked to have my photo taken with Stephen, one of the elders. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village! What a giggle. I was in Mgahinga near Kisoro to write about Volcanoes Safaris’ Retreat “Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes conservation challenges 2022 to 2050.”
Prince Wasajja of Buganda Kingdom completed the 21km run at the Rwenzori Marathon in western Uganda. Kasese town was painted green and the streets were lined with curious bystanders who couldn’t believe their town had become the talk of the country for a weekend. For many Kampala friends, this was their first visit. That shows you the power of sporting events in putting a destination on the map. 2023 is set to be even bigger for Kasese!
Murchison Falls Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog
I was curious to see the new tarmac road that bisects Murchison Falls National Park (still under construction in some areas). I hate that Uganda is drilling for oil in a Protected Area but the drive to the Top of the Falls is certainly easier than before. We all gasped when we were hit by spray from the river! (Thankfully the cameras and phones survived). We passed through Murchison on our way back from Arua in West Nile.
Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron is one of my favourite stories from Murchison.
There is so much to write about West Nile:
- firstly the BIG smiles
- diverse cultures of tribes that are local to the region
- a list of invitations to numerous waterfalls
- mountain hikes
- hot springs
- Emin Pasha’s Fort
- Congolese music
- smoked Angala fish
- Amin’s Trail
- Colourful kitenge material sold by South Sudanese ladies at the Friday market
The people of Arua loved my 10 little-known things to do in Arua written after an earlier visit.
What are we without culture?
Mungu and I spent an enthralling hour with Tutu, Director of the Madi Lugbara Community Museum in Arua, West Nile, northwestern Uganda. I loved the museum’s simplicity. Moreover, the items displayed aren’t dusty items that sit forgotten on a shelf. “Go to the villages in West Nile” says John “and you will see all these items in daily use.”
Protecting traditional culture starts by listening to our elders’ stories, learning the lessons captured by song, engaging with passionate people like Tutu. He brought everything in the museum to life with his insightful, frequently funny, stories. The Madi Lugbara Community Museum is in Arua town. It’s one of many community museums across Uganda. They are mostly run by volunteers and all need our support.
One of the great things about writing a blog is meeting all kinds of interesting people [do say hi!] While I was checking out hotels and restaurants in Kampala for Fodor’s Travel, tour guide Joan came to say hello. She’s a ‘Top Fan’ of my Facebook page so it was wonderful to meet in person. The staff at the 5- star Kampala Serena Hotel are always smart, courteous and friendly. It’s a real privilege to stay there.
On a half-day “boda boda tour” of 7 crater lakes, we stopped at a tea plantation on the edge of Kibale Forest. I was over the moon when one of the tea-pickers handed me the “jerrycan shears” and gave me a chance to pick my own tea! Tea + Ugandan jerrycan invention = pure joy for a Brit like me (a big tea drinker).
Cool way to spend the weekend alert! If you’re looking for a bit of an adventure without traveling far from Kampala, I recommend this half day tour: I jumped in a wooden boat at Ggaba for a 20km bike ride along the marram dirt roads of Mukono. I came back feeling super relaxed… (and dusty and sweaty!) If you have your own bike, you can join Sunday bike rides around Kampala at zero cost. Contact the Muzungu for more info.
RWANDA travel highlights
Stand-out moments included:
- Being back in Rwanda after three long years!
- Eating sambaza fish while listening to Congolese music in Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – a few snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
- Chatting conservation with Rwanda Development Board at Gishwati Mukura National Park, Rwanda’s newest protected area.
- Sipping tea and nibbling homemade biscuits on the terrace at Virunga Lodge, overlooking the twin lakes of Bulera and Ruhondo.
- Gawping in awe at the world-class Ellen de Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Kinigi, close to the start of the gorilla tracking.
- Having The Best Massage Of My Life at the five-star Maisha Spa at Kigali Serena Hotel.
- Drinking tea on the balcony of Virunga Lodge overlooking Lake Burera.
- Reconnecting with Greg Bakunzi of Red Rocks. Their cool campsite in Musanze is a centre for adventure, art and cultural learning. The community benefit directly from t heourists.
- Hearing stories about Dian Fossey from Gaudence, the owner of the legendary Muhabura Hotel, where Fossey used to stay.
In May 2022, I saw for myself how easy it is to enter Rwanda at the snazzy new Gatuna “one stop shop” border post.
After years of cross-border bus trips, it was interesting to cross the border in a tourist vehicle. First my guide Rashid had to buy COMESA insurance; at the border he had to ‘clear’ the vehicle with the Uganda Revenue Authority and Immigration. Here we were both issued with an Interstate Pass (part of the East Africa Tourist Visa which all EAC citizens and residents are eligible for). Lastly, our bags were scanned and searched – don’t accidentally carry a cavera (plastic bag) into Rwanda!
In Kigali, Rwanda, we caught up with Dr Andrew G. Seguya who heads the Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration (and was the longest serving ED at Uganda Wildlife Authority). GVTC is best known for protecting the mountain gorillas that range between Rwanda, Uganda and the DR Congo. Have you heard of the pledge to protect gorillas? Gorilla tracking tourists are encouraged to commit to protecting the gorillas from human diseases by signing the www.gorillafriendly.org pledge.
Have you visited Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu?
This chilled-out small town borders the DRC town of Goma and is great for a long weekend. The buffet breakfast at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel is to die for! Their new gym opened in time for CHOGM in 2022 and the hotel has added mountain bike hire and birdwatching to their list of activities.
Have you heard of Gishwati-Mukura National Park?
Rwanda’s conservation and tourism visions are bold and inspiring. The new national park, created in 2016, is in fact two (severely degraded) forest fragments. An ambitious plan is in place to develop tourism activities (hiking, birdwatching, chimpanzee tracking and cultural experiences). A tree planting programme is visibly helping prevent soil erosion, protect rivers, improve biodiversity and – crucially – provide firewood for local communities. I’ve been following Gishwati-Mukura’s evolution closely since writing a blog for Albertine Rift Conservation Society in 2019.
Fancy sleeping in Dian Fossey’s room?
Gaudence’s family knew pioneer gorilla conservationist Dian Fossey well and shared some interesting stories about Fossey’s stays there. Did you know you can stay in the very room where Fossey slept? (For a premium price). You can guess where the muzungu wanted to sleep! (Unfortunately I arrived when the room was being renovated).
KENYA travel highlights
Nairobi’s matatus are legendary! Each one is a work of art.
Work it baby (More reasons to celebrate 2022)
Thank you to everyone who voted for me in the Top 100 Women in Travel and Tourism in Africa. I felt honoured to be nominated and bowled over to come at no. 2 in the online vote!
Training assignments led me across East Africa: digital marketing training in Jinja, Kampala, Fort Portal and West Nile; a community-based tourism webinar from Sunbird Hill for the East Africa Tourism Platform. Other work highlights included being speaking live to readers of the U.K.’s Wanderlust Magazine; a digital marketing presentation at Uganda’s inaugural Adventure Tourism Expo; On Uganda podcast interview; judging Uganda’s annual Travel Writing Competition. The year ended on a high with an invitation to Nairobi to co-lead a day discussing responsible tourism (one of my favourite subjects) with Kenyan content creators, Ecotourism Kenya and Kenya Tourism Board. (Thank you Barbara!)
Did 2022’s travels make up for lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest?
That time was enchanting in many ways and I remain grateful every day (as my #LockdownDiaries attest) but I took the isolation hard. I confess: 2022’s carbon footprint was off the scale and this year I am committed to offsetting my travels. I’m also committed to launching a podcast, a project inspired by being locked down with nature. More on that very soon!
Lastly, you’re always welcome to contact me for travel recommendations or check out my Travel Directory.
The Challenge of Protecting the Great Apes and the Albertine Rift
Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050 – an overview of the retreat at Mount Gahinga Lodge
If you’ve been following Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know how passionate I am about conservation. I was therefore delighted to be invited to help document Volcanoes Safaris’ conservation retreat at their fabulous Mount Gahinga Lodge. This is the first in a series of posts and podcasts I’ll be publishing about the weekend’s fascinating conversations.
Volcanoes Safaris was honoured to host the “Retreat on The Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050” at Mount Gahinga Lodge in the Ugandan foothills of the Virunga volcanoes. The retreat was the culmination of a series of events in 2022 to celebrate Volcanoes Safaris’ 25th anniversary.
Welcome to Mount Gahinga, Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge, by Praveen Moman
Praveen Moman, founder of Volcanoes Safaris welcomed everyone to Mgahinga “the playground of Volcanoes Safaris” an area that Praveen has been visiting with his family since the age of 12 and the location for Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge: Mount Gahinga. Praveen took the opportunity to thank the assembled gathering for the collaboration, partnership and perseverance and to make an impassioned plea to find solutions.
Participants acknowledged that big strides have been made in conservation. Johannes Refisch (UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi) pointed out that mountain gorillas are the only great ape species whose numbers have increased in the past decades. Dr Gladys Zikusoka-Kalema of Conservation Through Public Health noted that mountain gorillas are important to government revenue, commenting “We have a gorilla on a Ugandan banknote.” However, the growing human population, climate change, risk of disease, regional insecurity and other factors will continue to exacerbate environmental challenges.
“Welcome to Uganda’s smallest National Park” by Uganda Wildlife Authority
The weekend’s events started with a short walk in the National Park led by Praveen Moman and Richard Muhabwe, Senior Warden, Uganda Wildlife Authority. Muhabwe welcomed everyone to the 33.7 km square Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (MGNP), part of the greater Bwindi Mgahinga Conservation Area. This transboundary Park, contiguous with Volcanoes National Park in DRC and Rwanda, is popular for tracking the Nyakagezi family of nine mountain gorillas, golden monkeys, nature walks and volcano hiking of Mount Muhabura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabyinyo, borders the three countries.
Muhabwe’s welcome speech highlighted many of the environmental challenges that were to be discussed over the coming days. Climate change has led to flooding: mudslides on Mount Muhabura killed ten people and damaged property earlier in 2022. Climate change exacerbates the presence of invasive (plant) species that replace foliage that should feed wildlife. Human wildlife conflict is another local challenge: a 16 km long stone wall along MGNP’s boundary stretches from the border of the DRC to the border of Rwanda and prevents buffaloes straying from the National Park to destroy crops.
One of the highlights of the retreat was an exuberant song and dance display by the villagers who reside in the Batwa Village built on land purchased by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust and other well-wishers. Jane Nyirangano, chairperson of the Gahinga Batwa Village, thanked VSPT for their interventions.
The purpose of the retreat
Participants at the informal conservation retreat discussed the successes and challenges of the past 25 years of conservation in the Albertine Rift and brainstormed ideas and solutions for ensuring the habitats, parks and wildlife, including the endangered great apes, survive for the next 25 years.
The aim of the retreat was to stimulate new ways of collaboration. It was an opportunity to speak openly about participants’ perspectives, fears and ambitions for this fragile region. By having a longer-term goal, participants were free to imagine a range of scenarios (in contrast to most meetings which tend to focus on the more immediate future). The fundamental questions revolved around: what are we doing right? What else are need to do? Is it a question of scaling up current interventions? Or do we need to adopt new approaches?
We cannot just put wilderness on a pedestal; we need to put bread on the table of local people. We need to use the private sector to be the engine of growth, to deliver business plans, to organise service delivery. We need Protected Area managers and conservationists to look after our species, and veterinarian and disease specialists to safeguard species’ health and protect them for the future. We need to join what’s happening outside a park with what’s happening inside a park. We need to make people part of the conservation chain. We need to make this the beginning of the campaign to save the Albertine Rift.
Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris
Who attended the retreat
Participants came from across the region: wildlife vets, primatologists, researchers, safari guides, wildlife rangers, National Park law enforcement and tourism wardens, foresters, and other conservationists; hospitality consultants, tour operators, development experts, private financiers, community outreach (Herbert) and media.
The retreat was co-moderated by Conservation Consultant Alastair McNeilage and Johannes Refisch of UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi.
Participants were invited to make short, simple presentations on topics of relevance to conservation in the Albertine Rift.
Key conclusions of the retreat
- It’s important for stakeholders to consider the Albertine Rift – Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC – as one region and to have a long-term vision for addressing the area’s various challenges.
- Concrete steps must be taken to maintain connectivity between small, isolated islands of habitat. This will help make ecosystems more resilient to the impacts of climate change.
- The threat of more human diseases affecting great apes is significant so veterinary care and technology will remain critical.
- Conservation needs to be part of the economic mainstream for governments and communities to support the continued presence of protected areas in regions where human populations continue to rise.
- Local communities must benefit from conservation and tourism. They have a stake in the future of great apes and protected areas and must be involved in development plans.
- Tourism can bring significant revenue, but the pandemic has taught us that conservation and communities cannot rely on one sole source of funding. New business models for protected area management must be actively considered. Innovative models have been successfully implemented across Africa. Public-private partnerships, for example, approach conservation management as a business that can cover the protected area’s operational costs and directly benefit communities involved.
- Collaboration between conservation organisations and the private sector needs to be developed further. Long-term involvement of researchers, new investment in parks, and application of private sector skills such as ‘business thinking’ and service delivery are important in sensitively developing natural resources and creating ‘professional tourism products’ for sale to visitors.
- Gorilla and chimpanzee tourism must be sensitive and controlled in line with the established protocols so that it does not negatively impact the species or habitat. Tourism protocols need to be strictly followed by park authorities, tourism intermediaries and visitors.
- Investment in conservation education for the next generation of young Africans is critical, to ensure that young people are educated and inspired to support conservation and tourism. The need for quality education is particularly important for the indigenous Batwa population. Forcibly removed from their forest home, these conservation refugees need a direct benefit from tourism in order to lift their communities out of poverty and help find peaceful human / wildlife co-existence. Conservation education should be an integral part of all stakeholders’ activities.
- The retreat agreed to create an informal group: The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group whose aim is to become a long-term advocacy and information network for those involved in this subject area. The focus of the group is to take collaborative action to deal with specific policy issues, threat to a particular species or a habitat or community issue. The group should maintain regular contact, either as a whole or in sub-groups, possibly every quarter through written exchanges, Zoom calls or physical meetings.
Outputs of the retreat
- The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group is led by Conservation through Public Health and Volcanoes Safaris. The inaugural meeting was held 22nd November 2022 in Kampala.
- The stakeholders agreed to meet every year, bringing in other partners as appropriate, to review progress. The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund offered to host the next meeting at their Ellen DeGeneres Campus, at Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.
- The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group has proposed some informal groupings to support action in specific areas; each participant should decide whether they wish to participate in a sub-group.
- Responsible gorilla tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; the gorilla-friendly pledge; adherence to IUCN and GRASP best practice guidelines; enhancing habitat connectivity.
Lead organisations: Conservation Through Public Health and Gorilla Doctors.
- Responsible chimpanzee tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; enhancing habitat connectivity.
Lead organisation: Jane Goodall Institute.
- Friends of a National Park group. A group of stakeholders around each park could be created to:
- Enhance Community Livelihoods from tourism and conservation.
- Invest in the Next Generation: improving conservation education in communities, visits by school children to National Parks, creation of scholarships.
- Financing of conservation and raising awareness of conservation issues within the Albertine Rift. Pursue opportunities for developing PPPs or reviewing the cost/ benefit of restructuring park management.
- Raise issues with appropriate regional and international organisations and events including:
- Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration Secretariat
- Great Apes Survival Partnership (GRASP) Council meeting
- African Primatological Society conference in 2024 in Gabon
- Congo Basin Forest Partnership
- International Congress for Conservation Biology (ICCB 2023), July 2023 in Kigali, Rwanda
- Wildlife Conservation Society (WCS)
- World Wildlife Fund (WWF)
About the Albertine Rift
The Albertine Rift stretches from Murchison Falls in northern Uganda to Kahuzi-Biega in the DRC. It is one of the richest areas of biodiversity in the world and one of the most densely populated areas of Africa.
About Volcanoes Safaris and the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust
For 25 years, Volcanoes Safaris has been at the forefront of reviving tourism in Uganda and Rwanda and is recognized as the region’s leader in gorilla and chimpanzee ecotourism. Volcanoes Safaris was the first company to set up simple camps in the areas around Uganda’s gorilla parks. Today Volcanoes Safaris has three lodges in Uganda: Mount Gahinga Lodge at Mgahinga National Park; Bwindi Lodge, bordering Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; and Kyambura Gorge Lodge, overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park, neighbouring a gorge with a community of threatened chimpanzees.
In 2000, Volcanoes Safaris became the first international safari company to take clients to Rwanda and in 2004 opened Virunga Lodge, the first international company to build a lodge near the gorilla park after the war. Virunga Lodge is winner of Condé Nast Traveler readers’ choice awards 2017, 2021 and 2022.
Volcanoes Safaris: recognised leaders in great ape tourism
Volcanoes Safaris helped kick-start gorilla tourism in Rwanda after the genocide through the Volcanoes BLCF Partnership Project. In 2005 the company become a charter signatory to the UN Kinshasa Declaration on Saving the Great Apes, the only private sector company to do so. In 2009, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust (VSPT), a non-profit organisation that aims to create long-term, self-sustaining projects that enrich the livelihoods of local communities and promote the conservation of the great apes, was established.
In 2013, Praveen Moman, the founder was asked to join the Congo Basin Forest Partnership, which promotes sensitive economic development of the forests of Central Africa. Praveen has been described as a ‘visionary conservationist’ by the Financial Times and as ‘one of top twenty-five conservation-philanthropists’ in Africa by Departures Magazine. In 2021 Praveen was named winner of the Newsweek Future of Travel Awards.
About the retreat
The retreat took place at Mount Gahinga Lodge between November 12-14 2022. The next retreat will take place in one to two years’ time.
“We need the wisdom of all you, of your elders, of those who have gone before, of your institutions, to work together.”
Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris
For further information
If you’re are interested in future meetings, you’re welcome to contact the Great Apes in the Albertine Rift steering committee via email albertineapes@gmail.com.
- Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, Founder, Conservation Through Public Health.
- Jean Paul Hirwa, Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund
- James Byamukama, Jane Goodall Institute
- Alastair McNeilage, Conservation consultant
- Johannes Refisch, UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi
- Nick Radford, Wildlife Conservation Society
- Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris
How to photograph the mountain gorillas
Tips for taking good photos of gorillas
If you enjoy photographing wildlife, the visibility of the gorillas will be particularly important. You’ll probably be desperate to get great photos of this once in a lifetime experience to show family and friends back home.
In Uganda, it can be difficult to capture good photos under the dark canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, as the name suggests! If you are very lucky, you may encounter your gorilla family in a clearing.
In Rwanda, the vegetation tends to be more bamboo and short grass, and therefore can make for better photography, although the skies may still be grey overhead.
You will be on the move, so it’s best to get as organised as possible before you start your gorilla trek. If you hire a porter, which is highly recommended, then you can take a fair bit of kit with you.
Here are a few tips for photographing the gorillas:
If you’re taking photos using a standard point-and-shoot camera:
- Make sure your camera battery is fully charged.
- Always take extra memory cards.
- Remember that flash photography is not allowed when you are with the gorillas. Make sure you have your camera manual with you so you know how to disable the automatic flash and automatic focus light functions.
- Keep your camera and/or phone in a waterproof bag (such as a large Ziploc bag). Cue: you’re in the rainforest.
- Take a zoom lens, wide angle lens and an in-between / fixed focal length lens.
- It may be tricky to change lenses while the gorillas are moving around so take more than one camera body if you can.
- Take fast film (400-1600 ASA) if you have a film camera.
- Photographs of gorillas in the low light of the forest can appear underexposed. More experienced photographers recommend shooting at ISO 1250 or higher in the forest.
Professional filmmakers require permission and need to purchase filming permits in advance from Uganda Wildlife Authority (Uganda) or Rwanda Development Board (Rwanda).
Personal DVD recorders are allowed. It’s fairly easy to shoot videos of the mountain gorillas, as you will be close to them and they are generally slow movers.
Taking a photo with the gorillas is all part of the tracking experience. Ladies, remember to look in the mirror before you go off to see the gorillas. (My gorilla selfies are the worst!) LOL. I look so sleepy.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Are mountain gorillas endangered?
What is the conservation status of Mountain Gorillas?
Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are classified as ‘endangered’ on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species. It was only in 2018 that they were recategorised from the ‘critically endangered’ listing.
“Today, mountain gorillas are threatened, not due to a demand for their meat, or their infants, but due to a demand for the lush forest in which they live. For the poverty-stricken communities living around the gorilla habitat it is the forest that provides them with many of their basic human needs, and in the war torn areas of Democratic Republic of the Congo these needs are exaggerated.”
Gorilla conservation is the number one conservation priority in Uganda and Rwanda. Gorilla tourism has helped bring the mountain gorilla population back from the brink of extinction but threats to their survival are still very real. The biggest threats to the gorillas come from humans: illegal logging of the rainforest, poaching, encroachment of land for farming and the risk of disease transmission by humans. Additionally, political instability is still a major factor affecting the Congolese population of mountain gorillas in the DRC region of the Virunga Volcanoes.
“Active conservation [of gorillas] involves simply going out into the forest, on foot, day after day after day, attempting to capture poachers, killing—regretfully—poacher dogs, which spread rabies within the park, and cutting down traps.”
The gorilla population numbers in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from a shockingly low census record of just 254 gorillas in 1981 to an estimated 880 individuals in 2013. In 2018, we were delighted to learn the combined population has just passed the 1,000 mark.
Rangers continue to put their lives on the line every day to protect these gentle giants. Poaching of gorillas is thankfully very rare these days, however they can unwittingly become caught in snares set for other animals.
Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony every September is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face.
If you trek to see the mountain gorillas, you may be interested to know that a percentage of every gorilla permit fee goes to the communities living around the National Parks. The benefits of this are many: local communities receive a tangible benefit from tourism in remote parts of the country where there are few employment opportunities. This direct financial incentive encourages local people to support tourism. Entry into the national parks is strictly controlled. Before the national parks were gazetted, people entered the forest to collect firewood, burn charcoal, set snares and hunt. The promotion of farming outside the protected areas (vegetable gardens and goat rearing) and the development of alternatives to charcoal (fuel-efficient stoves and solar panels) are just some of the projects that conservation organisations promote in local opportunities.
The removal of the Batwa ‘Pygmies,’ the traditional forest dwellers, from the gorillas’ habitat was another step that the authorities took in the 1990s, when the gorilla population seemed to face certain extinction. The Batwa culture and way of life are unique. By visiting and supporting the Batwa projects (developed as alternative ways of living outside the forest that once supported them) you are directly supporting gorilla conservation.
In recent decades, many people from all over the world have dedicated their lives to the conservation of the mountain gorilla. In 1985, pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, was found dead in her home in Volcanoes National Park, believed to have been murdered by one of the poachers she fought in her protection of the gorillas. The mountain gorillas are better protected than ever, and their numbers rising slowly, but each year, rangers from Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo put their own lives in danger to protect these marvellous creatures. The ‘Galiwango, Life of a Gorilla’ animated film project pays tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of these rangers.
Which conservation organisations are working to protect the mountain gorillas?
For information on some of the conservation issues and initiatives in and around the national parks of Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo, visit:
Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH)
The Gorilla Organization (TGO) works with communities to protect the habitats of the Mountain Gorillas of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.
Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) manages the country’s National Parks. UWA rangers are constantly monitoring the whereabouts of Uganda’s gorillas.
Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGF)
Blog of the Gorilla Doctors Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project
International Gorilla Conservation Programme IGCP
Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund MGCF
Berggorilla & Regenwald Direckthilfe
Gorilla tracking tourism and numerous community tourism initiatives all help raise funds and awareness the plight of the endangered mountain gorillas.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Gorilla Tracking Rules [UPDATED]
What are the rules for tracking the Mountain Gorillas? Why do we need them?
- Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and Rwanda Development Board (RDB) have clear rules and regulations to protect both gorillas and the humans that track them.
- The ranger guides will do their utmost to find the gorillas for you. These conservation rangers are in frequent radio contact, constantly monitoring the health, safety and whereabouts of the mountain gorilla populations.
- Although no tourist has ever been seriously hurt by a habituated gorilla, you should always remember that an adult gorilla is several times stronger than a human, and can be disturbed by human activity, particularly if the gorillas are nursing infants or sick – or simply not in the mood to be disturbed!
- The maximum group size for tracking the gorillas is 8 to 10 people per group
- Gorilla trackers must be fit and in good health. Trekking in thick forest at heights over 2,000 metres, traversing steep mountains and ravines can be tough and frequently wet. Gorillas are susceptible to many human diseases, including COVID-19, diarrhoea, colds and the flu. You should not go gorilla tracking if you have any of these.
- Your cough or sneeze can be lethal to a gorilla. Gorilla tracking was closed for many months at the start of the pandemic but has reopened. However, stricter regulations are in place to track all mountain gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC. For example, as soon as you enter the National Park you must wear a good quality facemask. You must keep the mask on at all times. When you find the gorillas, you will be asked to put on a clean facemask.
- Gorillas can catch diseases from discarded human rubbish. Don’t litter or spit while in the gorillas’ habitat.
- Do not touch the gorillas, even if they come close. They can be very curious.
- Do not make any sudden movements.
- If a gorilla charges, do not run away. Stay calm. Slowly crouch down and avoid direct eye contact, until the gorilla moves away in its own time.
- Leave a distance of at least ten metres between you and the gorillas – although the gorillas do not always stick to this rule! If the gorillas start moving towards you, the rangers may advise you to move backwards away from them. (Pre-pandemic, experts said we should keep seven metres distance; this has been upwardly revised to 10 metres).
- Do not surround the gorillas. View them from a distance and in groups.
- One hour is allowed with the gorillas.
- Personal DVD recorders are allowed. Professional filmmakers need to purchase filming permits in advance from UWA or RDB.
- If you need to go to the toilet while you are in the forest, tell your guide, and they will dig a hole for you. Make sure you cover the hole afterwards to prevent possible transfer of disease to the gorilla population.
- You will be given a list of the Gorilla Tracking Rules with your tracking permit and reminded of them again on the morning of your gorilla trek.
- Flash photography is not allowed. It can be difficult to capture good photos of the gorillas under the dark canopy of the rainforest. If you have a film camera, fast film (400-1600 ASA) is useful.
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Packing list for tracking gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda
What equipment do I need to bring to track the gorillas? What clothes should I wear?
Since day porters are very affordable, you can pack all the recommended gorilla tracking clothing, equipment and water, without having to worry about how you will carry it.
Here’s my recommended packing list for tracking the gorillas:
- Walking boots or shoes (boots are better because they have better grip and support your ankles on hilly terrain)
- Breathable waterproof jacket and trousers. Even if it doesn’t rain, the ground and vegetation are generally wet. Wearing waterproof trousers means you can kneel to get gorilla photos or slide down slippery slopes.
- Long-sleeved shirt (to protect yourself from tree branches, the sun and insects)
- Gaiters (or long socks) to tuck long trousers into (to correct legs from scratches and keep insects out)
- A fleece or light wool sweater
- Sunglasses, sunscreen and sunhat
- Gloves to grip the vegetation (dime store or ‘pound shop’ gardening gloves are perfect!)
- Camera equipment
- A walking pole. If you don’t have one, I highly recommend taking up the offer of a walking pole or stick. Sometimes the lodge provides them, other times, the guide may cut one for you from bamboo. Even one pole can be a big help for climbing up and easing yourself back down steep or muddy hills
- Include plenty of water. Hydration is very important. Your lodge should provide you with a packed lunch and drinking water. (Don’t be afraid to ask for more than one bottle!)
- Tips (at your discretion) for your rangers and porter
- Lastly and most importantly: don’t forget to take your gorilla trekking permit and your passport (or the identification you used when reserving your permit). You will need to show your ID at the pre-tracking briefing.
- Pack all of this in a small backpack
Mornings in the mountains can be cool and nights can be surprisngly cold. You will probably experience mist and quite possibly rain while you are tracking the gorillas. It can also get quite hot, from the sun and/or the hiking uphill. Layered clothing is recommended, ideally the ‘wick-away’ moisture type.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure! [UPDATED]
Gorilla tracking – a typical day: what to expect
I shall never forget my first encounter with gorillas. Sound preceded sight. Odor preceded sound in the form of an overwhelming, musky-barnyard, humanlike scent. The air was suddenly rent by a high-pitched series of screams followed by the rhythmic rondo of sharp pok-pok chestbeats from a great silverbacked male obscured behind what seemed an impenetrable wall of vegetation.
Dian Fossey in Gorillas in the Mist (1983) describing her 1963 trip to Kabara. (The screams and chest-beating were of alarm, not ferocity.)
Part of the excitement of tracking the gorillas is wondering exactly where you will find them! As their name suggests, Mountain gorillas live at high altitude. The dense jungle, altitude and muddy terrain can be tiring and some visitors may find the tracking very challenging. Keep your own pace and drink plenty of water. Avoid getting dehydrated.
After early breakfast, your lodge should provide you with a packed lunch and plenty of drinking water. (Check that the packed lunch has been organised when you retire to bed the night before you track). Even if the weather looks fine before you embark on your hike, the higher you get, the more it rains (so don’t forget your rain gear!)
The once in a lifetime gorilla tracking experience starts with an early morning briefing, around 7.30 to 8 AM depending where you are tracking. You will be reminded of the Gorilla Trekking Rules, in place to protect the gorillas and their precious habitat. One of the main rules is that if you are feeling ill, you are obliged to advise the authorities. They will decide whether you are healthy enough to trek. Remember that the health of the critically endangered gorillas is more important than your holiday: a cold or the flu can be fatal to a gorilla.
After your briefing, you will have the opportunity to hire a porter for the day. Highly recommended!
Although one family is sometimes found very near to the start of the gorilla tracking in Uganda, generally you will walk for an hour or more before you find the gorillas. The countryside is incredibly beautiful. For me, the trek is a wonderful part of the whole experience.
Radio contact between the wildlife rangers and information from the previous day’s gorilla sightings make it possible for the rangers to guide you to the right place to find the gorillas.
As you come within range, the rangers will ask you to leave your bags and non-essentials so you can approach the gorillas more closely, cameras at the ready. Take time to simply enjoy the presence of these amazing animals. Do come out from behind the camera lens occasionally.
Immediately I was struck by the physical magnificence of the huge jet-black bodies blended against the green palette wash of the thick forest foliage.
Dian Fossey, Gorillas in the Mist
You will spend an hour with the gorillas, during which time they may be munching on bamboo, hanging from the trees above your head, grooming each other, suckling their babies, playing, sleeping, farting or even having sex! You just never know what to expect.
One of the most important Gorilla Trekking Rules is to keep a distance of seven metres from the gorillas. There’s no guarantee that the gorillas will stick to this however! You will often move around the forest while you are with them. If they approach you, the rangers will ask you to step back. Equally if they walk into the forest, you may be allowed to follow them a little way. Sometimes you will see the gorillas in a light clearing. At other times they will be in dark forest. You need to bear this in mind if you’re planning to take a lot of photos. Bring fast film, if you’re shooting film. Regardless of what type of camera you have, you must always make sure the flash is switched off.
The route back to the park headquarters is often shorter, although some tracks may involve you climbing back uphill in places.
Back at base in Uganda, you will be given your gorilla trekking certificate. Bragging rights, yeah!
(Rwanda used to issue paper certificates too and may offer some similar recognition again in the future. In 2018, RDB were giving trackers beautiful presentation boxes of tea or coffee – Rwandese of course).
The UWA and RDB conservation ranger guides are very knowledgeable and will take good care of you while you are in the forest. These ranger guys (and occasionally girls) will help you negotiate sometimes steep and often muddy ground too. Whether you have questions about the gorillas, or about the wildlife, birds and plants of the forest, feel free to ask. The guides know each gorilla family intimately and can tell you the names and habits of each family member. There is so much to learn about these fascinating and humble primates.
Tips for the rangers are discretionary but very much appreciated. Estimate $15-20 per tracker/ranger. Tips should be in small US dollar bills (dated post-2006) or local currency (Uganda shillings or Rwandese francs, depending on which country you are trekking in).
What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure. How your day starts in Uganda
Gorilla tracking registration and briefing take place at the Uganda Wildlife Authority park offices from 7.45 am and tracking usually starts at 8.30 am. It is here that you will be given the name of the specific gorilla family you are tracking. Some gorilla families are easier to track than others; it all depends at what altitude they range, or what distance they cover during the day. It normally takes 1 to 3 hours tracking time (each way) to find your gorilla family. If you’re fit, pushing through the dense jungle of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, with a ranger hacking through the occasional branch with his machete in front of you, can be quite an adventure! I LOVE IT!
What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure. How your day starts in Rwanda
Tea and coffee are provided from around 7.00 am for gorilla tracking visitors assembled in Kinigi, where entertainment was once provided by the traditional Intore dancers from SACOLA (Sabyinyo Community Livelihoods Association). In 2018, entertainment was provided by a large TV screen showing happy trackers. (Bring back the dancers, I say!)
In Rwanda, your gorilla family will be assigned to you at the early morning briefing. The fitter (and more willing!) you are, the more likely you are to be allocated a gorilla family that involves a longer trek. The rangers assess you according to your health, general fitness, age and interests.
You can opt for a short hike (of between 30 minutes to an hour), a medium one (from one hour to three hours) or a longer hike to the large Susa group, which may take the whole day.
Gorilla tracking in Rwanda generally starts with a 45 minute walk up gently sloping farmland. The backdrop of the volcanoes is spectacular and the air is pure. As you approach the park entrance, the ground becomes steeper and thick with bamboo.
Depending on the group you are with, your total tracking time will take 30 minutes to four hours (in either direction). Generally, gorilla tracking is less strenuous in Rwanda than in Uganda.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Rwanda? [UPDATED]
Accommodation tips. Here are a few of my recommended gorilla lodges in Rwanda
- The sensational Virunga Lodge is set on a hill with 360 degree views of lakes and volcanoes. If you’re splashing out on a once-in-a-lifetime experience, you must stay here. It is an hour’s drive from the park entrance in Kinigi.
- The Red Rocks Campsite in Musanze is a colourful community-run initiative and a great base for endless hikes, art and music and cultural activities. It’s at the heart of the annual Red Rocks Cultural Festival, held to coincide with Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony.
- Hotel Muhabura in the town of Musanze (20 minutes’ drive from the start of the gorilla tracking in Kinigi) is a tried and tested destination with pedigree primatological connections, although rather old-fashioned compared to many lodges. For a premium, you might want to book cottage number 12, where famous primatologist Dian Fossey regularly stayed on trips down from her home high up in the Virunga mountains.
- Le Bambou Gorilla Resort is a popular mid-range lodge just 20 minutes drive from the starting point for Rwanda’s gorilla tracking. The banda accommodation is made of volcanic rock and the gardens are full of bamboo and colourful flowers.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
(FAQs) about gorilla tracking [UPDATED]
Answers to commonly asked questions.
Am I guaranteed to see the gorillas?
- Purchasing a gorilla tracking permit is not a guarantee of seeing the gorillas but you will have an over 95% chance of seeing them, thanks to the rangers’ 24 hour monitoring. The habituated gorilla families do occasionally move out of range, but this is very rare.
Can I change the date of my gorilla tracking permit?
- Permits are non-refundable except for medical reasons, in which case you would need to provide a medical certificate.
When is best time of year to track the mountain gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
- Personally, I wouldn’t let the weather forecast decide when the best time is to see the gorillas since it rains most days in the rainforest. The rain may not be heavy, but there will certainly be low-lying mist and wet vegetation. Of course, some treks and trails are muddier than others!
- Predicting the rainy seasons is not an exact science these days but broadly speaking, the rainy seasons are March and April and October and November.
- Uganda and Rwanda enjoy round temperatures of between 21°C and 30°C throughout the year. In the higher altitudes of the mountain gorillas’ habitat, it can be as cold as 10°C.
- Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony in the first week of September is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face. This superb event is by invitation only – but, if you’re touring the country, you’re invited! (There is no charge, but your tour operator will need to secure your invitation in advance).
How many days should I book for my gorilla tracking tour?
- You will need to set aside at least three days to see the gorillas in Uganda. Allow one day for travel to your accommodation, one day for the gorilla tracking itself and a third day for travel back or onwards, wherever you opt for. (It is possible to reduce a gorilla tracking tour to two days in Rwanda, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Some crazy people even fly in and out in one day, but don’t do it!)
Can I choose the time of day that I track the gorillas?
- You will need to be up very early on the day of the gorilla tracking and the day will be physically demanding, so you will need to arrive at your lodge by 6 or 7 PM on the day before you track. Note that it gets dark early on the Equator, and we only advise travelling in daylight hours, owing to the long distance and remoteness of your destination. Have an early night in preparedness for the next day.
- In the evening after your tracking, kick back, relax and relive your adventure in one of the lodges near the gorilla tracking areas before travelling the next day, or even the day after.
Should I hire a porter to track the gorillas?
- Hiring a porter means you can pack all your camera equipment, rain gear, snacks and plenty of water without worrying about how you will manage to drag it up a muddy slope through bushy undergrowth!
- In areas where the majority of people are subsistence farmers, portering jobs are invaluable. The day fees for a porter bring in cash – a rare commodity in this remote corner of Africa. By employing someone on a gorilla trekking tour, even for a day, you are reminding people of the personal value to be gained from protecting the mountain gorillas and their habitat. These employment opportunities help reduce encroachment into the protected areas – to set snares or collect timber – where the mountain gorillas live. Employ a porter and you’re not just helping yourself, you are supporting the local community and thus the gorillas themselves.
- The cost to hire a porter is $10-15 (plus discretionary $5 tip). Tips should be in small US dollar bills (dated post-2006) or local currency (Uganda shillings or Rwandese francs, depending on which country you are trekking in).
- TIP: although the rangers will accompany you all the way back to the park headquarters, occasionally the porters leave your group before you reach there, so make sure you have the right money for tips with you, just in case they depart early.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
How to buy gorilla tracking permits? [UPDATED]
Where can I buy Mountain Gorilla tracking permits for Uganda and Rwanda? Do I need to book permits in advance? When are the peak seasons?
Gorilla tracking permits need to be purchased in advance, that is six months or even a year in advance if you’re travelling during peak season or if you are in a large group. The earlier you book, the more choice you have on where you track and where you stay. Last minute bookings may be possible during low season or where there are just one or two people tracking, but availability of gorilla tracking permits is not guaranteed. This applies to Uganda in particular where there is high competition for the permits (owing to the lower fee than in Rwanda).
The busy peak seasons are June through to October and Christmas and the New Year.
Each gorilla family can only be visited one hour per day. There is a minimum age requirement of 15 years to track the gorillas in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC.
Gorilla tracking permits can be purchased up to two years in advance through the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) or the Rwanda Tourism Board (RTB) or via a registered tour company. DRC gorilla permits can be bought on the VisitVirunga web site.
The advantages of booking with a tour operator or Safari company is that they have intimate local knowledge of the accommodation options and proximity of gorilla families. They know these remote areas well and their drivers are experts at negotiating slippery, steep dirt roads. If you plan to extend your trip (and most people do) the company can make travel recommendations and arrange all the activity and accommodation bookings for you.
To book your gorilla tracking permit, you will need to provide:
- The date(s) you would like to track the gorillas. Suggest a few dates in case your first choice of date is already booked up. Ideally, scan and email a copy of your passport to whoever is organising your permits.
- Your name, nationality and passport number. Gorilla tracking permits are non-transferable. (Note that you will need to show your passport or some other ID at the pre-tracking briefing).
- Payment. The best way to pay is by bank wire transfer. Remember to instruct your bank to deduct any transaction charges from your account.
- If you are buying gorilla tracking permits directly from UWA or RDB, you will need to send them the bank payment confirmation email.
- If you are buying gorilla tracking permits from a tour operator, note that not all tour operators in East Africa accept credit cards. Of those that do, many add a hefty surcharge (of between 3% and 9%). Once the tour company have your preferred dates and personal details, they can make a temporary reservation with the authority.
- Confirmation of your reservation. You should receive a scanned copy of your gorilla tracking permit within a few days or weeks. When you arrive in country, your tour driver guide will give you your original permit or you will collect it from the UWA / RTB office (if you are travelling independently).
Your gorilla tracking permit will have a unique serial number and your personal details written on it. It is non-transferable.
Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Uganda
To reserve gorilla tracking permits in Uganda, you will need to specify which park (Bwindi or Mgahinga) you would like to visit. Before your tracking, UWA staff will advise which gorilla family you will track, according to your fitness level and interests.
Uganda’s gorilla families are spread over a wide geographic area, so it is important that you book accommodation that is within an hour’s drive – or a few minutes’ walk – of the start of the gorilla tracking.
To purchase gorilla tracking permits, you will need to buy them through a tour company if you are an international visitor. Ugandans and expats in Uganda can make independent purchases at the Uganda Wildlife Authority reservations office on Kira Road, Kampala or call +256 (0)414 355 409/410 or email reservations@ugandawildlife.org. (TIP: in-person visits are always more effective but the reservations office can get extremely busy).
Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Rwanda
It is slightly easier to reserve gorilla tracking permits in Rwanda, as everyone starts their day at park headquarters in Kinigi so you don’t need to specify your lodge location or a gorilla family. Before your tracking, RDB staff will advise which gorilla family you will track, according to your fitness level and interests.
Rwanda gorilla trekking permits and tours can be made through a tour company or Rwanda Development Board’s bookings portal. You can also buy permits in person at the tourism office at RDB’s excellent ‘one stop centre’ in Kigali. This is located on the ground floor of RDB’s gleaming Head Office, KN 5 Road, KG 9 Avenue, Gishushu. The centre is open from 9 am – 5 pm from Monday to Friday.
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
