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Swim, cycle or run? (Win fab prizes!) Kyaninga Triathlon May 2024

Are you a runner? Do you ride a bike? Do you swim?

Kyaninga Lodge KCDC triathlon, duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024
Kyaninga Lodge triathlon / duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024

If you can do all – or even one – of these sports, then why not get a team together for the superb Kyaninga Triathlon on May 18th 2024? (We still have time to get in shape!) You can also sign up for a fun run, duathlon or bike ride. The annual triathlon takes place in the glorious countryside around Kyaninga Lodge outside Fort Portal, western Uganda. Full details – prices + how to enter + race descriptions + contact details – are on the Kyaninga Events website.

NOTE: info on this page is updated every year.

Do you fancy winning a night at one of Uganda’s top lodges?

Scroll down to read how to buy raffle tickets to night stays at Kyaninga Lodge, Ndali Lodge, Buhoma Lodge, Mihingo Lodge, Red Chilli Hideaway, Aramaga Rift Valley Lodge, Seasons Lodge Zanzibar, Little Elephant Camp, Kikorongo Safari Lodge, Rwakobo Rock, Turaco Treetops and Trekkers Safari Lodge.

Help change the futures of children with disabilities in Uganda

All proceeds of these fundraiser events go to the amazing Kyaninga Child Development Centre who work with disabled children and their families. I have seen the positive impact of their work – it’s life-changing! 13% of children in Uganda – that’s more than 2.5 million children – are living with a disability

How to register for the Kyaninga Triathlon + how to buy raffle tickets to win awesome prizes at lodges, cafes and restaurants across Uganda

1. Visit the Kyaninga Triathlon website for more info.

2. If you’re in Uganda, register for all these events OR pay for raffle tickets by using MTN MoMo Pay 613517.

3. Got a question? WhatsApp Fiona at KCDC on +256 778277248 or events@kyaningacdc.org

4. Buy a ton of raffle tickets! You can even buy them remotely and your numbers will be sent via WhatsApp.

5. Looking for ideas on accommodation around Fort Portal? Send me a message.

Kibale Forest welcomes Volcanoes Safaris!

Diary of a Muzungu is excited to share that Volcanoes Safaris “the pioneer of gorilla and chimpanzee ecotourism in Uganda and Rwanda since 1997” will soon be opening their fifth lodge, right on our doorstep: Kibale Forest!*

Although best known for its group of 1500 raucous chimpanzees, Kibale Forest’s chimps even have their NetFlix series. The whole Toro region has a mesmerizing landscape: mile after mile of rolling green hills, crater lakes and the essence of rural Ugandan life.

Built by hand, Kibale Lodge is thoughtfully designed to harmonize with the rocky outcrop that dominates the 150-acre site. The new luxury lodge will feature eight deluxe rooms, a villa, swimming pool, sauna and spa. I can’t wait to see the final result! The main lodge building will overlook Lake Lugembe in the lodge grounds, with sweeping views of the Rwenzori Mountains, famously known as the “Mountains of the Moon,” and a glimpse of Queen Elizabeth and the Kazinga Channel to the south.

This clip makes me fall in love ♥ with Kibale Forest all over again!

This short film (and computer generated imagery) documents the building of Kibale Lodge by Volcanoes Safaris’ in-house construction team

Like other Volcanoes Safaris properties, Kibale Lodge has been a long time in the making. Although we had wanted a lodge there for many years, there were no attractive large sites available. So five years ago we started assembling this site, centred on the breathtaking ridge above Lake Lugembe. Finally it has come together.

We have been assessing the topography, light, and weather patterns. The design and build style will ensure the lodge remains consistent with our ecological principles as well as retaining our Afro-chic ethos. The lodge will fit into the landscape in a seamless way, as if it always existed and just grew out of the earth.

Our style of building boutique lodges develops informally and in a fluid way. We like to bring out the natural essence of buildings.

Praveen Moman, the visionary founder of Volcanoes Safaris and a seasoned figure in Ugandan and Rwandan tourism

Kibale Lodge is the natural addition to Volcanoes Safaris’ existing circuit of four “great ape lodges,” these being: Bwindi Lodge, Mount Gahinga Lodge and Kyambura Gorge Lodge in Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, Virunga Lodge in Rwanda. In 2023 alone, Volcanoes Safaris have won a series of awards including Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards, Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards and Marie Claire Sustainability Awards.

Volcanoes Safaris map of their five Uganda and Rwanda lodges 2023. MAP COURTESY of Andrew Roberts
Volcanoes Safaris’ map of their five Uganda and Rwanda lodges 2023. MAP COURTESY of Andrew Roberts

Vision

Volcanoes Safaris not only provides high levels of services (think: complimentary massages and personal butlers) in awe-inspiring locations but also distinguishes itself through unwavering dedication to great ape conservation and long-term investment in the local community.

We believe that the conservation of species such as the mountain gorilla has to be part of the economic mainstream to succeed; sensitive and controlled tourism has an essential role to play in conservation; and most of all, if an endangered species is to survive, the focus of conservation and tourism must be on communities getting tangible long-term benefits.

Praveen Moman

In Kibale Forest, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust will collaborate with the Jane Goodall Institute Uganda. This is modelled on the successful community-based conservation projects that have been running at Kyambura Gorge Lodge for over a decade.

Drive times to Kibale Lodge

  • An hour from Fort Portal.
  • An hour from the airstrip at Kasese, ideal for daily flights to and from Entebbe, and the other Volcanoes Safaris lodges.
  • 30 minutes to the starting point for chimp tracking at Kanyanchu in Kibale Forest, one of Africa’s best parks for viewing chimpanzees. Read Diary of a Muzungu’s firsthand account of chimp tracking in Kibale Forest in “Pant hoots and knuckle spins.”

Read more about Volcanoes Safaris’ lodges and conservation commitment on Diary of a Muzungu:

Opening offer in 2024

Looking ahead, Kibale Lodge’s first three deluxe bandas will be ready for guests by May 2024; an additional five bandas will be unveiled by the year’s end. To celebrate this milestone, Volcanoes Safaris are offering a special opening promotion. Guests can combine their Kibale Lodge experience with gorilla trekking at Bwindi or Mount Gahinga Lodge and enjoy five nights for the price of four.

For more details, contact Volcanoes Safaris directly enquiries@volcanoessafaris.com – and do mention Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉

*Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know I am “blogger in residence” at Sunbird Hill, a few minutes drive from Kibale National Park.

Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Rwanda? [UPDATED]

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
I hope you enjoy my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking – feel free to share it!
  • The sensational Virunga Lodge is set on a hill with 360 degree views of lakes and volcanoes. If you’re splashing out on a once-in-a-lifetime experience, you must stay here. It is an hour’s drive from the park entrance in Kinigi.
  • The Red Rocks Campsite in Musanze is a colourful community-run initiative and a great base for endless hikes, art and music and cultural activities. It’s at the heart of the annual Red Rocks Cultural Festival, held to coincide with Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony.
  • Hotel Muhabura in the town of Musanze (20 minutes’ drive from the start of the gorilla tracking in Kinigi) is a tried and tested destination with pedigree primatological connections, although rather old-fashioned compared to many lodges. For a premium, you might want to book cottage number 12, where famous primatologist Dian Fossey regularly stayed on trips down from her home high up in the Virunga mountains.
  • Le Bambou Gorilla Resort is a popular mid-range lodge just 20 minutes drive from the starting point for Rwanda’s gorilla tracking. The banda accommodation is made of volcanic rock and the gardens are full of bamboo and colourful flowers.

For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Uganda? [UPDATED]

Where to stay when tracking gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
I hope you enjoy my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking – feel free to share it!

Lodges in Buhoma (on the northern boundary of Bwindi)

  • Buhoma Lodge is one of two lodges inside Bwindi Impenetrable National Park. It is a luxury eco-lodge of fixed tents with excellent en suite bathrooms, set into a hill with beautiful views of the rainforest.
  • I love Bwindi Lodge! The interiors are superb and the full frontal view of the rainforest is second to none.
  • Buhoma lodges I’ve visited include: Sanctuary Gorilla Forest Camp, Mahogany Springs, Engagi Lodge, Trackers, Buhoma Community Rest Camp, Haven Lodge, Silverback Lodge.
  • Gorilla Conservation Camp offers comfortable budget accommodation just 2 km from the Buhoma entrance to the national park for gorilla trekkers, students and researchers. Uniquely, Gorilla Conservation Camp’s profits go to the award-winning NGO Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH).

Lodges in Ruhija / Nkuringo / Rushaga (on the southern boundary of Bwindi)

  • Chameleon Hill is unique! A technicolour dream, overlooking Lake Mutanda and the Virunga volcanoes.
  • Nkuringo Bwindi Gorilla Lodge is set on the crest of a small hill. In the one direction, the lodge overlooks Bwindi Impenetrable Forest. In the other direction, on a clear day, guests can see the eight volcanic peaks of the Virunga.
  • You’ll pay top dollar to stay at Clouds, but if a helipad and a personal butler are what you’re looking for, then look this place up!
  • Travellers’ Rest in Kisoro has simple, comfortable, rather dated rooms and was a frequent stop for renowned primatologist Dian Fossey when she travelled through Uganda. It is about an hour’s drive from the park gates.

Where to stay when tracking gorillas in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park

  • Mount Gahinga Lodge is just five minutes’ walk from Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Nestled beneath the volcanic peaks, this five star eco-lodge has fabulous food. Every stay includes a complimentary massage. The lodge’s numerous well thought-out community initiatives are a real hit with visitors. Meet the Batwa, the ancient forest tribe.

For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Kampala’s top hotels & restaurants for Christmas & New Year! [UPDATED 2022]

Where are you celebrating Christmas Day? And which is Kampala’s best hotel for New Year?

DECEMBER 2022: If you’re celebrating Christmas in Kampala, the restaurants at the capital’s top hotels have a long list of festivities planned for you. Below is the muzungu’s choice of Kampala’s leading hotels and restaurants, all updated for 2022.

Scroll down to whet your appetite for festivities happening in Kampala on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.

Kampala has something for every taste: cocktails, brunch, lunch, high tea and barbecues; buffets, traditional Christmas dinners, gala dinners and Christmas-themed menus, children’s activities, carol concerts, pool parties and fireworks. Hotels have special seasonal accommodation offers. Why not relax somewhere snazzy for a few days? Pamper yourself and enjoy a spa treatment.

Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉

The Maisha Spa at the Kampala Serena Hotel has a selection of seasonal spa treatments. December 2022

Christmas and New Year at the Kampala Serena Hotel

Below are a few highlights of the Kampala Serena Hotel’s festive season. Click on the images for their 2022 programme or download the whole programme here.

Christmas Eve 2022 Christmas carols and high tea. Kampala Serena Hotel
Christmas Eve 2022 Christmas carols and high tea by the pool at Kampala Serena Hotel

Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Lake Victoria Serena Hotel

Click here for the Lake Victoria Serena’s Xmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offers.

Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel

Scroll down for a few highlights of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s holiday programme.

Kampala Sheraton Hotel Christmas staycation packages 2022
Kampala Sheraton Hotel. Christmas 2022 and New Year staycation room packages
Kampala Sheraton Hotel Christmas Brunch 2022
Sheraton Kampala Hotel Christmas Brunch 2022 with entertainment by Tracy Noel and Queen of Acoustic Band
“Ring in the new year with family and friends over great food, music and a stunning fireworks display that will keep your spirits high.” For bookings call 0312 322 499 / 0752 711191 #KampalaSheraton #MarriottHotel #SheratonFestive #NewYearsEve

Christmas 2022 and New Year at Speke Resort Munyonyo, Kampala

Speke Resort has a comprehensive Xmas and New Year programme, with activities planned throughout the holidays. The Christmas Day programme includes live band, kid’s play area and Santa! Christmas Lunch Buffet includes a complimentary glass of bubbly.

Highlights of the Xmas 2022 programme at Speke Resort Munyonyo
Xmas 2022 the famous “round the world” lunch buffet at Speke Resort Munyonyo
Christmas cake Speke Resort
Look at the little muzungu – dwarfed by the massive Christmas cake at Speke Resort! (My first Xmas in KLA)
Speke Resort Munyonyo’s Christmas Eve 2022 dinner

Splash out at Le Chateau Brasserie Belge! Christmas Eve and Christmas Buffet 2022

Le Chateau. Le Petit Village Hotel Kampala Xmas lunch buffet 2022
Le Chateau is the fabulous restaurant adjacent to Le Petit Village Hotel at Quality Hill on Ggaba Road (next door to the US Embassy). Kampala Xmas lunch buffet 2022
Le Petit Village Hotel Kampala Xmas programme 2022 (1)

Christmas Day at Mestil Hotel, Nsambya, Kampala

The Festive Season is a joyous time of Celebration at Mestil Hotel & Residences. Enjoy special moments as you celebrate with friends and family.

Mestil Hotel & Residences, Kampala

Protea Hotels by Marriott, Kampala

Kampala has two Protea Hotels: the first one is on Acacia Avenue; the second “Skyz” is in Naguru. Both hotels have a number of special festive meals planned for Xmas 2022 and the New Year. The Chapter Two Restaurant at the Protea Marriott Naguru Skyz Hotel has amazing views of Kampala’s skyline – as the name suggests!

Protea Naguru Skyz Hotel Kampala Christmas Day lunch menu 2022
Protea Naguru “Skyz” Hotel Kampala Christmas Day lunch menu 2022
Protea Naguru Skyz Hotel Kampala Christmas Eve dinner menu 2022
Protea “Naguru Skyz” Hotel Kampala Christmas Eve dinner menu 2022
Protea Hotel Marriott Kampala festive season special December 2022
Protea Hotel Marriott Kampala (Acacia Avenue) festive season room rates. December 2022
Naguru Skyz New Year's Eve. Diary of a Muzungu sisters
My sister and I welcomed in New Year 2019 at the Naguru Skyz Hotel (now a Protea Marriott). It was ballistic! The fireworks were the best I’ve seen in Kampala.

Christmas and New Year at Latitude 0° Hotel, Kampala

Scroll down for a few highlights of Latitude 0° Kampala Hotel’s festivities.

Latitude 0 Hotel Kampala Xmas programme 2022
Latitude 0 Hotel Kampala Xmas programme 2022
Latitude 0 Hotel Kampala Christmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offer
Latitude 0 Hotel Kampala Christmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offer

Click on the images below to see more Christmas 2022 holiday ideas!

Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉

Let's not spread COVID just because it's holiday season! Remember to wear your mask, social distance and wash your hands regularly.
I don’t want to spoil the party but… it’s December 2022 and there’s a new variant of COVID so think about wearing your mask, social distancing and wash your hands regularly (especially if you’re not vaccinated)

For Christmas and New Year bookings, please contact the individual hotels and restaurants listed – and do say the muzungu sent you 😉

Wishing you a very Merry Christmas

A luxury escape to Mombasa – limited offer!

Serena Beach Resort & Spa and Uganda Airlines package departing from Entebbe

Did you know that the 5-star Serena Beach Resort & Spa in Mombasa and Uganda Airlines have teamed up to create a special offer for you? 🌊🌊🌊 Fly direct from Entebbe to Mombasa with Uganda Airlines and pamper yourself at the luxurious Serena Beach Resort & Spa, Mombasa, Kenya. Scroll down for full details of this limited time period offer!

Serena Beach Resort, Mombasa and Uganda Airlines promotional package until July 31st 2022
Serena Beach Resort, Mombasa and Uganda Airlines promotional package until July 31st 2022 (for both East African residents AND international tourists)

The ocean 🌊🌊 🌊🌊 is the no. 1 thing I missed during lockdown – and the Mombasa Serena Resort was the first place I stayed after two years locked down in Uganda. Below is my TripAdvisor review from July 2021.

Mombasa Serena Resort is everything I wanted it to be: a wide expanse of white sand, friendly courteous staff, some unusual activities and fantastic food (of course).

The Zanzibar Suite was amazing! I loved the bold colourful interior, the day bed and the hot walk-in shower. The spa is simply beautiful. The outdoor yoga area is surrounded by soothing running water.

One of the highlights of our four night stay was dinner by the beach at the Jahazi (Seafood) Grill. NOT TO BE MISSED! The atmosphere was chilled and the food was sensational. I lost count of the number of courses we ate!

The Swahili-themed architecture made for interesting walks around the resort’s compound. On day one, I took the complimentary architectural and cultural tour, led by a member of staff decked in cultural attire. I’m glad I did this at the start of my trip because it meant that the design themes of the resort resonated more with me. (I have written about a similar, superb tour at the Nairobi Serena Hotel).

Some wildlife highlights at Mombasa Serena Resort were watching newly-hatched Green Turtles rush down to the ocean! What an unexpected joy. I also toured the small Butterfly Garden, a lovely experience run by a gentlemen who is clearly passionate about these beautiful creatures. All these activities are complimentary for resort guests.

Charlotte Beauvoisin, Mombasa Serena Resort & Spa, Kenya. TripAdvisor review, July 2021.

Soak up the rays at “the ultimate tropical paradise” on Mombasa’s white sand beach

“Nestled along a pristine, white ribbon of Indian Ocean shoreline on the north coast of Mombasa, Kenya, the 5 star Serena Beach Resort & Spa is a true tropical sanctuary. Privacy and tranquillity are ensured with all accommodation arrayed in intimate, single-storey buildings framed by Swahili architecture and landscaped paths, lush lawns, coconut palms and gardens to create the feel of a traditional Lamu village.”

The limited edition package of $310 (per person per night) includes return flights from Entebbe International Airport, half board accommodation, airport transfers and numerous complimentary activities and discounts. Fly into Moi International Airport, Kenya, and you will be met by a resort representative for the hour and a half drive to Serena Beach Resort & Spa on Shanzu Beach. The resort overlooks a beautiful stretch of white-sand beach adjacent to Mombasa Marine National Park in the Indian Ocean.

The 5 star Serena Beach Resort & Spa Uganda Airlines package includes:

  • Return flights from Entebbe to Mombasa with Uganda Airlines
  • Minimum stay two nights (additional nights at a special rate)
  • Minimum two people
  • Half board accommodation (breakfast and dinner)
  • Return airport transfers with ‘meet and greet’ services in Mombasa
  • 10% discount on superb food at the Jahazi Seafood Grill
  • 20% discount on all spa treatments at the fabulous Maisha Spa
  • Architectural, cultural and conservation tour of the resort
  • Prices are $310 / person per night (extra nights are just $135 / person per night). This offer is for East African residents AND international guests.

Serena Beach Resort & Spa Mombasa is perfect for families, couples, honeymooners and those looking for an adventure. The resort has received the TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice 2022 and is ranked in the top 10% of properties on TripAdvisor.

Serena Beach Resort & Spa Uganda Airlines package excludes:

  • Visa entry charges to Kenya (where applicable)
  • Personal items such as drinks, laundry, phone calls, tips to hotel staff, personal travel insurance.
Serena Beach Resort and Spa, Mombasa, Kenya
Serena Beach Resort and Spa, Mombasa, Kenya

All 74 guest rooms and suites suites at Serena Beach Resort & Spa have private balconies or terraces with ocean views or facing the courtyard gardens. Interiors feature Maasai-inspired hand-painted wall decor, supremely comfortable beds and modern comforts (minibar, complimentary WiFi, flat-screen cable and satellite TV).

Facilities at Serena Beach Resort & Spa

  • Beach front, extensive gardens and nature trails
  • Gorgeous swimming pool with swim-up bar
  • Maisha Mind, Body & Spirit Spa for jacuzzi, massage and beauty treatments
  • Fitness centre (gym)
  • Air-conditioned squash courts
  • Recreational activities include kitesurfing, wind-surfing, beach volleyball and eco trails, glass-bottomed boat trips, wide variety of water sports, PADI dive school (additional charges may apply)
  • Butterfly Centre
  • Turtle Watch Programme
  • ‘Walk-in’ chessboard (with human size chess pieces!)
  • Evening entertainment
  • Ice cream parlour
  • Wedding planning service
  • Dedicated world-class event and conference centre
  • Travel desk and taxi and limousine service
  • Hair salon
  • Gift shop
Swimming pool, Serena Beach Resort and Spa, Mombasa, Kenya
Palm trees and bougainvillea adorn the Serena Beach Resort and Spa, Mombasa, Kenya

Local landmark attractions in and around Mombasa include

  • Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve
  • Haller Park / Nature Trail in Mombasa
  • Historic Mombasa
  • Nyali Golf and Country Club
  • Shimba Hills National Reserve
  • Tsavo East National Park
  • Vipingo Ridge Golf
  • Wasini Island

Planning a holiday on the Kenyan coast? Book an all-in package at the 5 star Serena Beach Resort & Spa. Contact Serena Beach Resort & Spa, Mombasa or Kampala Serena Hotel

Uganda kampala@serenahotels.com +256 41 4309 200 / +256 31 2309 000 / +256 20 0415 000 / +256 75 1705 305

Kenya reservations.mombasa@serenahotels.com +254 732 125 000 / +254 727 424 201/2/3

A couple of things to note: Uganda Airlines fly direct between Entebbe, Uganda and Mombasa, Kenya three times a week. Proof of COVID-19 vaccination is a Kenyan government requirement. Serena Hotels child policy: children under two years are complimentary. Children 2 – 4 years 50% off the package rate; children 5 – 11 years 75% off the package rate.

Making an enquiry? Do say Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉

Where are you celebrating Easter? Uganda resident specials!

Are you looking for things to do in Kampala and places to stay in Uganda this Easter?

Easter 2022 will be celebrated between 14th and 18th April, come rain come shine! It’s incredibly hot as I write this, so it’s hard to imagine rain! However, rains are certainly due…

Here are a few of Diary of a Muzungu’s suggestions on how to spend the Easter holidays. Am I missing somewhere? (I know I am! Feel free to contact the Muzungu with suggestions or recommendations).

The Easter holiday is a great time to leave Kampala for a few days. Uganda has countless destinations where you can spend the long weekend. Their numbers are mushrooming as you read!

Some hotels and lodges quote in Uganda shillings, others in dollars. I don’t usually quote prices (they date so quickly) so you should always check terms and conditions before making your booking (and do mention a certain ka blog won’t you 😎). Any prices quoted here are for Ugandans and expats / Ugandan residents. (International tourists generally pay higher prices so are not covered in this blog post).

To view images full size, just click on each one. For lodge descriptions and contact details, scroll down…

Lodges and hotel recommendations for celebrating Easter 2022
Search

NOTE: lodge suggestions are grouped by (approximate) location.

Destination Safari! The bush is calling…

To many expats in Uganda, mention the magical words “public holiday” and the first thing they will want to do is disappear on Safari. You simply can’t beat reconnecting with nature (ideally with post-game drive gin and tonic of course!)

Safari destinations, gorillas and volcanoes …

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks

If you’ve ever thought of tracking the gorillas, Easter could be a good time as you need at least two nights in Bwindi or Mgahinga. Since there are fewer international tourists than normal, you should find it easier to get a last-minute gorilla permit. (At the time of writing, permits are still available for Easter 2022, particularly in Ruhija in Bwindi’s southern sector).

Dear would-be gorilla tracker: COVID-19 SOPs require that you wear a mask when you are in the great ape national parks and there must be a minimum of 10 metres distance between you and the animals (formerly it was 7 metres).

Chameleon Hill

Book three nights at the gloriously colourful Chameleon Hill during April 2022 and you have a choice of offers: either pay 3 nights and stay 4 nights; alternatively, pay for 3+ nights and receive a complimentary massage plus a boat excursion. Resident rates are $125 / person sharing in a double/ twin chalet and $175 single occupancy, both on full board basis. Chameleon Hill

+256 (0) 772 72 1818  welcome@chameleonhill.com

Clouds Mt. Gorilla Lodge, Nkuringo, southern Bwindi

For a rate of $230 / person / night sharing, enjoy full board accommodation at Cloud’s, one of Uganda’s top lodges. Get a 10% discount if you stay for Easter weekend. This offer applies to a minimum two-night stay. Tucked in the south-western corner of Bwindi, walk to a vantage point to admire the peaks of some of the Virunga volcanoes and peek into Rwanda and the DRC.

+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com

Lake Bunyonyi and Lake Mutanda

Look what Gorilla Highlands dreamed up just for you:

Spend your Easter weekend with a family hike on Lake Bunyonyi, culminating in an Easter egg hunt on Habukomi Island. You can choose between the 3-day Mother of All Treks programme, 2-day Mama Bena’s Bonus or 1-day Islands of Miracles. Each trek combines dugout canoeing and hiking with the Easter Sunday island picnic and egg fun as a complimentary bonus. Don’t feel like walking? Gorilla Highlands can also take you to Habukomi by motorboat!

I have worked with the Gorilla Highlands team on many occasions. They offer awesome, authentic experiences that directly benefit the local community.

Jump in Lake Mutanda [like the girls in the photo] for the best view of the volcanic peaks of Mt Sabinyo and Mt Muhabura, two of the Virunga volcanoes

Gahiza Island Retreat offers a number of room options for Ugandan residents. Bed and breakfast is 150k ugx / double room / night, for example. For Easter 2022, book two nights and take a three-hour boat tour (worth 150k ugx) on Lake Mutanda for free or stay a third night for free!  

0775235579 reservationgahizaisland@gmail.com

Buhoma Lodge, Bwindi

Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Buhoma Lodge, one of Bwindi’s best, long established high end lodges and pay $155/person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. This is a steal! This Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022.

$5 per person per night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation. I love their work!

+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com

Kibale Forest National Park and Fort Portal

The crater lakes have been enticing visitors to Fort Portal – Uganda’s first “tourism city” – for decades. Popular expat lodges include Ndali Lodge, Kyaninga Lodge, Isunga Lodge, and Papaya Lake Lodge. Each one overlooks its own lake.

British expats missed Marmite during lockdown. Ndali Lodge's Xmas promo Uganda
One of the toughest aspects of lockdown for British expats was the global shortage of Marmite. Ndali Lodge’s Xmas promo hit a note with UG’s expat community. (Yes this is for Xmas and we are promoting Easter!)

If you plan to track chimps, COVID-19 SOPs state that you wear a mask and you must keep a minimum of 10 metres between you and the great apes (formerly it was 7 metres).

To the south of Kibale National Park lies Turaco Treetops “a true jungle experience where comfort meets nature!” On a clear day, you can see the Rwenzori Mountains. Families love the outdoor playground, swimming pool and kids’ playroom. Children and adults alike enjoy the guided nature walk and mountain bike tour (new ‘Giant’ bikes for adults and children are available to hire from the lodge).

Luxury cottages are in secluded locations; standard rooms have (optional) sharing balconies, perfect for families or groups of friends. It’s quite likely Turaco Treetops will be fully booked by the time you read this article but bookmark it for your next weekend away!

+256 (0) 75 715 2323

The Sunbird Hill Experience, Kibale Forest edge (3km from Kanyanchu)

One of the highlights of the Sunbird Hill Experience is the guided walk with Silver, the reformed poacher and ranger, a veritable walking encyclopedia of forest knowledge. Learn about Kibale’s birds and 100s butterfly and moth species at Butterfly Village. Sunbird Hill is set up for those who are passionate about nature. If you’re looking for an immersive experience, look no further. The ridiculously low $30 fee includes expert site guides, half day access to the Birders’ Lounge and refreshments. There is nowhere else like it in Uganda!

Visits to this private site are strictly by prior appointment. WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 julia@sunbirdhill.com

All Sunbird Hill activities support In the Shadow of Chimpanzees NGO.

Rweteera Safari Park

Don’t miss Rweteera Safari Park’s Easter offer: free canoeing experience and a guided night walk around the shores of Lake Nyabikere in search of nocturnal animals. Keep your eyes peeled for bushbaby, nightjar and crickets. You’ll know if you hear the chilling shriek of the tree hyrax!

The Easter offer is exclusively for overnight guests. Rates are single $50, double $70 (bed and breakfast). Rweteera Safari Park is within walking distance of Kibale National Park.

WhatsApp 0776862153 rweteerasafaripark@gmail.com

Beyond Fort Portal

Between Fort Portal and Kasese is the Italian-themed Lodge Bella Vista – and pizzeria – that was built by a retired Italian diplomat. The lodge and pool overlook Nyamiteza crater lake. Walk, bike and explore Toro‘s many community tourism attractions.  

This Easter, book two nights at Lodge Bella Vista and get 50% off your 3rd night, subject to availability.

+256 773204264 / 759214947 booking@lodgebellavista.com

Queen Elizabeth National Park

Ishasha Wilderness Camp sits on the bend of a river in its own forest. This idyllic spot is regularly visited by wildlife and is the first place I spotted the eye-catching Narina Trogon.

Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Ishasha Wilderness Camp and pay $155 / person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022. $5 per person night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation.

+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com

Little Elephant Camp

If you love camping – but prefer glamping – head to Little Elephant Camp, rated 5 stars on TripAdvisor. Here families, couples or small groups have their own private, secure camp with a view of Queen Elizabeth National Park just outside the park’s northern boundary. 

Facilities include en-suite hot water outdoor “stargazer” shower, private campfire, well-equipped mess/kitchen with refrigeration and purified water, Wi-Fi, and much more. Shop and cook for yourself or pre-order marinated barbecue, fresh ingredients and everything you need for your safari, all delivered ready for your arrival. Easter 2022 promotion price at Little Elephant Camp is $80 per person (accommodation only) based on 2 people sharing. Minimum 2-night stay.

​+256 759 537220 / 787 722355 info@littleelephantcamp.com

The Observatory

One of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite places! Enjoy uninterrupted views of Lake Edward, Lake George, the Kazinga Channel and Lake Nyamusingire from The Observatory, a self-catering holiday home overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park. Two private cottages have splash pool, sauna, hot tub and barbecue area available for your exclusive hire at a very affordable rate. Click here to see gorgeous photos of The Observatory in the Travel Directory.

Kidepo Valley National Park

Did you know that everyone who goes to Kidepo rates it as their favourite National Park? The upmarket Apoka Lodge is the perfect base for a safari in Kidepo Valley. Their Easter 2022 rate is $180 / person / night sharing based on a minimum two-night stay. The rate includes full board meals and one game drive per day. Terms and conditions apply.

+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com

Lake Mburo National Park

Popular lodges include Rwakobo Rock (a personal favourite), Hyena Hill Lodge (I’ve heard great things), Leopard Rest Camp and the one and only Mihingo Lodge.

Lake Albert

Kikonko Eco Lodge is your first address on Lake Albert. Scenic views and a serene atmosphere characterise this small boutique lodge with swimming pool. Here guests can enjoy excellent service from friendly staff and get a peaceful night’s sleep in spacious self-contained cottages with private verandas.

Easter Special: book 2 nights in a double room on a bed & breakfast basis for $120 per night and get a third night and breakfast for free. A family room sleeps up to 4 people (2 adults and 2 children). The Easter rate is $170 for bed and breakfast. An Easter egg hunt is included in the price. Other lodge activities cost between $5 to $20.

+256 784 432 508 info@kikonko.com 

Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve and Semliki National Park  

It’s confusing to have two very different protected areas with almost identical names! Which is which? Semliki Wildlife Reserve is a savannah park on the southern edge of Lake Albert; Semliki National Park comprises a forest and the famous Sempaya Springs.

Shhh, don’t tell everyone but Semliki Safari Lodge in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve is where you should go when you want to escape the world!

Upgraded and refurbished during the pandemic in classic safari style, Semliki Safari Lodge offers full board and one game drive per day for $160 / person / night over the Easter period. This is based on two sharing for a minimum of two nights. Booking is dependent on availability and is only extended to Ugandan citizens and Ugandan residents with proof of residence. This lodge is ab fab! Read my blog Uniquely Semliki!

+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com

Closer to Kampala…

If you don’t have many days off, here are a few ideas for places to visit closer to the capital.

Expat favourite Nkima Forest Lodge has a great swimming pool and is ideal for mountain biking, canoeing, butterfly catching for the children and Shoebill-watching at Mabamba. Nkima Forest Lodge, Mabamba, is sister to Lake Mburo’s excellent Rwakobo Rock.

Call +256 701 865056 / +256 787 429377

Ssesse Islands

Fancy an island adventure?

Banda Island is an-ever popular, well-run location for an Easter weekend.

Rainforest Lodge in Mabira Forest

Mabira Forest is midway between Kampala and Jinja. This popular lodge has a swimming pool and sauna, badminton, volleyball, dartboard and board games. For 1.6 million Uganda shillings, a couple can stay two nights. This Easter 2020 rate is for full board and includes one complimentary bottle of wine. Cheers!

Call +256 782 574271 / +256 701 563437 reservations@geolodgesafrica.com

Jinja

Adventure tourism has taken off in Uganda with most activities based in and around Jinja, the Source of the Nile. Jinja is a favourite getaway for Kampala residents; it has something for everyone. The two new roads – Gayaza to the north and south of Jinja Road – make weekend trips in Jinja easier than ever.

Bungee Bar – and the bungee jump of course!

Uganda’s first – and currently the only – bungee jump overlooks the River Nile. No stomach for the jump? No problem. Take the safer (saner?!) option and watch the bungee from the comfort of the Bungee Bar, a fabulous spot for a sundowner. Bungee Restaurant has an extensive food and cocktail menu and is worth the ride just for the sunset views. to book a bungee jump or to reserve a table at the restaurant.

Call Rob on +256 750 707825 – and tell him the Muzungu sent you 😎

Quad biking and crazy golf for all the family at Bujagali, Jinja

Read my quad biking blog “Eat my dust!”

Also managed by Rob +256 750 707825.

Pony Rides with Nile Horseback Safaris      

If you fancy trying something new this Easter holiday, how about a sunset horse ride? The $60 sunset ride – for experienced adult riders – includes beer, local spirits, juice and sodas.

Did you know Nile Horseback Safaris offer 30-minute pony rides for kids aged between 4 and 12 years? Pony rides are between 9 and 11am and 2.30 and 4pm daily (subject to availability of ponies). Children – and adults – can do longer rides if they are experienced horse riders.

Pre-booking is essential for all rides.

+256 774 101196  nilehorsebacksafaris@gmail.com

Things to do at Easter in Kampala

moonbean chocolate, based together with Dancing Cup in Bugolobi, Kampala, are offering children ‘Build-a-Bunny’ and ‘Choc-Chick’ making workshops from early April 2022, and an Easter egg-hunt and other holiday activities over the Easter weekend. Follow @moonbeanchocolate on social media for the latest details.

+256 701 805182 m.me/moonbeanchocolate

There is nowhere like Kampala's Ssemagulu Museum! Learn Uganda's history through an entertaining guided tour of life-sized statues of historical figures, maps and artworks. The museum is in Mutundwe. Easter 2022 promotion.
There is nowhere like Kampala’s Ssemagulu Museum! Learn Uganda’s history through an entertaining guided tour of life-sized statues of historical figures, maps and artworks. The museum is in Mutundwe. Easter 2022 promotion.

An Easter thought from Diary of a Muzungu in support of Uganda’s tourism industry

The pandemic has devastated travel in particular and there’s been a big shake-up in tourism businesses up and down the country. It’s sad when you hear negative feedback about a favourite lodge that was on top of its game two years ago, but the reality is it will take time before things get back to normal. Many businesses are still in recovery mode.

You and I might be traveling again but let’s not push too hard for discounts. Remember the more we spend, the more we’re investing in the future of tourism in Uganda.

Whatever you do this Easter, get out there and #ExploreUganda! Looking for something different? Contact the Muzungu – I have 100s more ideas. HAPPY EASTER 😎

Uniquely Semliki

Semliki Safari Lodge, Toro Semliki Wildlife Reserve, western Uganda

Where in Uganda can you enjoy a night game drive, engage with experts who are actively conserving a Protected Area and share stories over Masterchefcalibre dinners at the Captain’s Table?

The luxurious Semliki Safari Lodge sits in the middle of Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, a Protected Area that will soon be upgraded to a National Park. “Uganda’s oldest upmarket tented camp” is equidistant from Lake Albert and the excellent new road from Fort Portal to Bundibugyo that winds its way through jaw-dropping Rift Valley panoramas.

This was my third – and arguably my most interesting – visit to this luxury lodge. My mission? To count birds on behalf of NatureUganda… (while being spoiled rotten!)

Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve’s birdlife is fantastic and easily seen. The wildlife reserve may not have the animal numbers of well-established National Parks but forest elephants and a multitude of primates made for three memorable game drives. One morning I even heard the unmistakable sound of a chimpanzee in the forest below my tent.

If you want to reconnect with nature – in luxury and style – I highly recommend a few days at Semliki Safari Lodge.

“I heard a leopard last night” Lodge Manager Tony announced when we checked in – but would we see one?

Scroll down to read the Muzungu’s account of our night game drive and learn about all the diverse activities you can do in and around the lodge.

Scat, cats and bats! A night game drive in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve

We were thrilled when the team suggested we jump in the lodge’s safari vehicle for a night game drive. As we dimmed our torches, fireflies blinked in the darkness and we bumped along the marram track towards the airstrip.

Our first sighting was a pretty little Genet Cat, similar in size to a domestic cat with a bushy tail. Once I was familiar with their eye colour and size, it was easy to pick out more Genets in the woodland either side of the track.

A few minutes from the lodge, we pulled up next to a big puddle. We were amazed when Tony jumped out and plucked a terrapin from the muddy water! He explained how Side-headed Terrapins are common in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve but only appear when the rain fills up the ruts and gullies. “Our guides drive around the puddles to protect the terrapins, rather than through them.” He added.

On the airstrip, a small flat area of cut grass, we cruised slowly up and down looking for nightjars, shy nocturnal birds that are sometimes seen ‘dust bathing’ on the ground. They are masters of camouflage. It’s only when you (almost) run over them that you notice them fly off in alarm.

According to Stevenson and Fanshawe’s Birds of East Africa “Nightjars are a notoriously difficult group to identify: not only do the species look alike, several have different colour morphs.” Don’t ask this casual birder to tell the two species apart, but our guides did. There were two new ticks for the muzungu that night: a Square-tailed Nightjar and a Slender-tailed Nightjar. Temporarily dazzled by our torches, the nightjars sat silent and immobile giving us the chance to admire their delicate plumage.

A Water Thick-knee pretended not to see us. This mainly nocturnal bird “freezes or squats if disturbed,” the book tells us. How true! “They are easily identified by their well-camouflaged brown plumage, large yellow eyes and long thickly jointed yellowish legs.”

Our nocturnal adventure continued with more interesting creatures: a leopard had visited the airstrip not long before us.

As we swept our torches along the ground, we picked out the small dark shapes of animal droppings. On closer inspection, the leopard scat (poo) was crawling with 40 dung beetles. Tony’s eyes lit up with excitement “I’ve never seen so many!” He said. “It’s the remains of a leopard’s kill.”

As we leaned in for a closer look, we recognised fluffy grey baboon fur among the dung beetles, moths and leopard scat. The beetles had clearly been industrious in the preceding 24-hours: little remained of the baboon prey.

Back in the vehicle, we spotted the ears of a young Kob poking through the long grass at the verge of the airstrip.

“Don’t disturb it.” Tony explained how we must not draw attention to this lone calf. It would make easy pickings for a leopard.

As we drove back to the lodge – and around the puddles – a Yellow-winged Bat swept through the night air. The beam of the headlights picked out a Defassa Waterbuck in the sanctuary of the lodge grounds. We may not have seen the leopard, but it was clearly around.

Wining, dining and sleeping – Semliki Safari Lodge’s creature comforts

Even with the reduced number of staff (due to the pandemic) the lodge did a tremendous job of looking after us. Every mouthful of food was delicious. Each ingredient is carefully considered, from the home-made chili to the exquisite pumpkin soup and pretty creations of delicate salad leaves. Breakfast is a gourmet affair of poached eggs with bacon and rocket, cereals and tropical fruit served with home-made bread, chunky marmalade and excellent coffee.

Every night, guests are invited to dine by candlelight with the lodge managers at the Captain’s Table, a rare treat at a Ugandan lodge. Tony and Noline are seasoned Safari experts. (I would revisit Semliki Safari Lodge any time for these shared dining experiences alone!)

The huge dining table – fashioned from one gigantic slab of wood – is perfect for social distancing. Semliki’s main living area of chunky sofas, tribal art and wall murals by the artist Taga is rather grand.

All rooms are fitted to a high standard. The hardwood floor of the luxury tents felt wonderful underfoot and there is generous amounts of hot water for the showers and luxurious outdoor bathtubs. Persian carpets and antique furniture recall a classic African safari. Kikois and slippers are provided, as well as mosquito repellent and a lockable cupboard. Every suite has a daybed on its private deck. (As I write this, I feel the urge to return!)

On a tour of the lodge grounds, lodge manager Tony explained how the units have been re-modelled to maximise the forest views. The new layout almost doubles the floor size of each luxury setup. Where possible, every item has been recycled, including “Amin’s steel,” reclaimed from the ruins of the original Uganda Hotel that once sat on this site. New materials include Elgon olive wood and thatch provided by the nearby Ntoroko Grass Growers’ Association.

Here in the bush, the Uganda Safari Company has invested heavily in solar power, a water borehole, a vegetable garden and more. They supply the water to the Uganda Wildlife Authority and UPDF (army) camps, a key contribution to managing the security of the Wildlife Reserve and its wildlife. Working together, the three organisations have cut the tracks and created a pond for animals to drink from during the dry season, amongst other initiatives. I admire The Uganda Safari Company’s vision – and determination – to protect this little pocket of nature.

What was Diary of a Muzungu doing at Semliki Safari Lodge?

Twice a year the team from Sunbird Hill carry out bird population monitoring on behalf of NatureUganda. Our patch is the Kibale Conservation Area which comprises Kibale National Park, Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, Semliki National Park, Lake Saka / Lake Bikere, Toro Botanical Gardens, Fort Portal and Katonga Wildlife Reserve.

Sunbird Hill team visit Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda 2020
Sunbird Hill team visit Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda September 2020. It was wonderful for our team to be in the company of like-minded conservationists and nature-lovers – especially after lockdown!

Why should you go on safari at Semliki Safari Lodge?

Whether you drive – or fly in – to Semliki, I highly recommend game drives with the lodge’s knowledgeable site guides Julius and David. They know the Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve inside out and are full of interesting anecdotes. They are expert drivers too.

What are the rates to stay at Semliki Safari Lodge?

Semliki Safari Lodge have some superb rates for residents. Take advantage of them while you can. The lodge has two packages to choose from: Full Board includes all meals and the Game Package includes meals, certain non-premium drinks and two game drives a day. If you make an enquiry, please say Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉

  • A night game drive to the airstrip.
  • Safari game drive on one of the numerous tracks in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve.
  • A dip in the lodge swimming pool.
  • Sundowners around the lodge campfire at the lodge or at the Semliki Bush Bar on an evening game drive.
  • Luxurious bush breakfasts, picnics and private dinners in stunning locations.
  • Primate walk in Mugiri Forest below the lodge. Chimp sightings are not guaranteed but you have a good chance of seeing Olive Baboons, Vervet, Red-tailed and Black and White Colobus Monkeys. Bookings can be made at the Uganda Wildlife Authority office next to the lodge entrance.
  • Lake Albert and tours to see the Shoebill are 30 minutes’ drive away and can be arranged by the lodge.
  • Semliki is “a Mecca for birders” with over 425 species recorded. My birding highlights included: Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Crested Francolin, Crowned Hornbill, Palm Nut Vulture, Flappet Lark, White-browed Coucal, Grey Kestrel, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Striped Kingfisher, Helmeted Guineafowl, African Paradise Flycatcher, Black-billed Barbet, Northern Black Flycatcher, Oxpecker, Ruppell’s Long-tailed Starling, Long-crested Eagle, Black Coucal, Grey-backed Fiscal, Rattling Cisticcola, Blue-naped Mousebird, Ring-necked Dove, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Ross’s Turaco, Pygmy Kingfisher, Piapiac, Bateleur, African White-backed Vulture, Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu, Blue-spotted Wood-dove, Little Bee eater, White-banded Snake Eagle, Fork-tailed Drongo, Black-billed Wood-dove, Lanner Falcon, Spotted Morning Thrush – and two species of Nightjar.
  • Look for butterflies. The Sunbird Hill team identified over 50 species including: Blue Sailor, Sulphur Orange Tip, Pea Blue, Red Tip, African Queen, Pearl Charaxes, Citrus Swallowtail, Blue Demon Charaxes, Scarlet Tip and Guineafowl Butterfly.
  • Birding in Semliki National Park (SNP) or Ntandi along the main road just outside SNP, just over an hour’s drive from the lodge.
  • The hot springs at Sempaya, Semliki National Park.
  • Do a day – or longer – hike in the Rwenzori foothills. There are a number of tour operators and community organisations that organise hikes. Send me a message if you would like a recommendation.
  • Andrew Roberts, co-author of the Bradt Uganda Guide, recommends the (very steep) walk from Ntandi to Karagutu.
  • Bundibugyo is the Rwenzori region’s closest town to the DRC (just 10km). There is not a lot to do in Bundibugyo but I find it rather charming. It’s a scenic drive, particularly during the rainy seasons. Look out for cocoa plantations along the route.
  • Enjoy the Rift Valley scenery. As you drive from Fort Portal, skirting the Rwenzori foothills to the left, there are a number of roadside stops where you can take photographs. To your right is the Kijura Escarpment, the “eastern wall of the Rift Valley” according to Andrew Roberts’ excellent maps of Uganda.

If you love birds, a tranquil pace, seriously great food and stimulating company, you will love Semliki Safari Lodge. It’s perfect for seasoned safari-goers who want to reconnect with nature.

Would you like to visit Semliki? Which activities would you try?

Read more about Semliki Safari Lodge in my Travel Directory and, if you make an enquiry, please mention the Muzungu sent you 😉

The land of 1000 … surprises! A solo exploration of Rwanda

Want to explore Rwanda? An ABC of Rwanda’s tourist accommodation – AirBnB, boutique hotels, camping and luxury lodges

A recent trip to Rwanda revealed such a wide variety of places to stay that I thought I must share them with you. Although Rwanda pitches itself as a high-end destination now – and has some wonderful luxury lodges like the remarkable Virunga Lodge – the country has a wide variety of accommodation for all budgets. It’s a very easy country to travel around too (although Ugandan friends did freak out when our vehicle started driving on the right side of the road!)

I seem to have developed this habit of leaving home for three days and returning after three weeks. It’s hard to resist the invitation to visit new places, especially when you’re already far from home (and your toothbrush is packed!)

The early morning bus from Kampala to Kigali is so much more pleasant than the night bus. (Why on earth did I take all those night buses?) I used to think I could kill a night by sleeping on the bus but sitting on the bus is no recompense for lack of a bed. I love Jaguar’s new wide ‘VIP only’ seats. There’s plenty of legroom and – hooray! – working seat belts. I’ve been using Jaguar Executive Coaches between Kampala and Kigali since 2011.

Despite rumours of bad politics between Uganda and Rwanda, I couldn’t tell whether anything was different at the border. Rwanda immigration’s new building is just having its last coat of paint. Those immigration officials must be relieved. If you cross the border late at night, they sit there in open-sided shipping containers, wearing thick jackets and suffering the cold of the damp river crossing.

moon over Nyabugogo bus park Kigali Diary of a Muzungu
The moon rises over Nyabugogo bus park in downtown Kigali

At Nyabugogo bus park in Kigali, I met my new friend and kindred spirit Denis Senechal, a French-Canadian who has relocated to Rwanda’s capital with his Rwandan wife. Read my story about the cobbler of Nyabugogo bus park that I wrote while looking out of the bus window.

Denis and I swapped stories about their former life in Kampala as he drove me to the cosy and colourful Umusambi Bed and Breakfast in Kibagabaga, my home for the next few days.

After a leisurely breakfast the next morning – “don’t rush me, I’ve only been sitting at the breakfast table for an hour and a half” – I got chatting to an Australian couple who invited me to tour Inema Arts Gallery and the Caplaki craft market. I’ve managed to finance my nomad lifestyle by not visiting craft shops (so it was rather weird to be seen as a tourist).

Caplaki Craft Market has excellent quality crafts – and divergent prices! Luckily we had the lovely Tony from Burundi to negotiate and whisper “don’t pay more than that” under his breath as we wandered from shop to shop.

We’d established that I could buy a snake (made from recycled bottle tops) for around 8,000 RWF (around $8). The shop next door asked for 15,000 RWF. At shop number three, the man with boozy breath said “I give you good price” and then asked me for 25,000 RWF for the same item! (He was the reminder to not buy the first thing you set your heart on).

Librairie Ikirezi bookshop rooftop cafe Kigali
On Friday afternoons, weekend celebrations start early at the Inzora Rooftop Café at Librairie Ikirezi, a few minutes walk from the Kigali Convention Centre

In the afternoon, Greg Bakunzi from Red Rocks in Musanze introduced me to the Inzora Rooftop Café at Ikirezi Bookshop / Librairie Ikirezi. This stylish – bookish – café is definitely my kind of place and one I plan to revisit.

A highlight of my time in Kigali was feeling free to walk wherever I wanted. Wide (motorbike-free!) pavements and street lights make walking a pleasure. From Ikirezi Bookshop, I walked to the famous ‘peace basket’ structure that is Kigali Convention Centre. It can be seen from all corners of the city, particularly at night when it is lit in a variety of mesmerising colours. Radisson Blu Hotel forms part of the Convention Centre complex. The presidential convoy of Range Rovers with black-tinted windows sped past me as I left the hotel.

Photo highlights from Kigali and Musanze – click on the photos to reveal their location!

Did you know that Google Maps continues to work even when you’re not on Wi-Fi? (You can see who failed physics, can’t you?) To start, I logged onto the free Wi-Fi at Radisson Blu and typed my destination into the app. Google Maps traced the route and the arrow kept moving, even as I left the WiFi zone behind me to walk 5.5 km uphill and down towards Umusambi Guesthouse. Rwandans are generally polite people, and some greeted me as I walked. Walking the streets of Kigali was a wonderful experience (although not everywhere is as developed as the route between the Convention Centre and Kibagabaga, as I found out the following week when I stayed in a residential back street). First the muzungu got lost, then the moto got lost and later Google Maps dumped me in a field of maize! (But tell me, what is a travel blog without the occasional detour?)

I felt so relaxed at Umusambi Guesthouse, that it was an effort to haul myself off the sofa! I chatted in French with the guesthouse’s Belgian owner and had an eye-opening conversation with an Italian lady who is vaccinating frontline staff against Ebola. “Prevention is better than cure” and we are thankful to see numerous interventions in place across the region.

I’ve travelled by bus from Kigali to Musanze many times and it couldn’t be easier. The Virunga Express from Nyabugogo takes a couple of hours from the city as it winds upwards through some of Rwanda’s one thousand hills.

From Musanze, I took a 7 km moto(rbike) ride to the Red Rocks campsite. Here at high altitude, evenings can be cold. I was glad to have a friendly dog lying on my feet as I warmed myself at the campfire while chatting to two very cool trail-blazing chicks: Harriet, one of Red Rocks’ co-founders and Angel, one of Rwanda’s few women tour drivers.

Red Rocks Campsite and Red Rocks Initiatives, Musanze Rwanda

Red Rocks is a popular campsite with super friendly staff who make a point of greeting you with a big smile. I enjoyed chatting French with the chef. Quels petits déjeuners énormes! (The breakfasts were huge!)

Red Rocks is home to authentic community tourism and I was honoured to spend some time with Kamana Theophile, an environmentalist with a passion for community projects. In the Red Rocks Museum, he demonstrated how banana beer is made in a giant wooden canoe-type structure. (I tried some on a previous trip – it’s delicious!) Profits from Red Rocks Campsite fund the indigenous tree nursery and gardening demonstration plots. Kamana discussed in French (ooo la la) how the local community are given seedlings, learn gardening techniques and good environmental practices – all for free. Through Red Rocks Initiatives, local communities – and the environment – directly benefit from tourism. Every aspect is environmentally sound: the ‘raised bed’ kitchen garden is made of volcanic rock and tree seedlings are carried home in pots made of banana fibre (plastic bags are illegal in Rwanda and the ban is strictly enforced).

Diary of a Muzungu. Red Rocks. traditional Rwandan hut
I have a bit of a ‘thing’ about huts so couldn’t wait to explore this one (and imagine what my life would be like if I lived there). It even has an outdoor ensuite bathroom! Red Rocks, Musanze
jerry cans. Red Rocks campsite Musanze near Kinigi
I also have a fetish for jerry cans! As you can see, Red Rocks in Musanze ticks all the boxes for me! The jerry cans are balanced on a ‘chukudu’ wooden bike. These are popular in the Congo for carrying heavy loads 

For a change of scene – we travel bloggers are rarely off-duty you know! – I was escorted to the new Classic Lodge where I did the full tour of the extensive buildings. The night before, over a thousand people had attended an event there. Had Musanze ever hosted such a large number of people?

Classic Lodge in Musanze is quite a set-up!

Here I was given a tour of the presidential suite (which President Kagame himself visited while it was under construction), a family cottage, suites, superior rooms and others. There are at least 40 different rooms and conference facilities.


Café Crema in Musanze is a cosy setup with charming and courteous staff. It’s the kind of place I love to hang out. The cappuccino was excellent, and I was happy to kill a few hours there (the first 30 minutes of WiFi are free).

Cafe Crema Musanze. Cappucino coffee VisitRwanda
Cafe Crema in Musanze serves excellent cappuccino coffee

Caffeine levels boosted, I dropped by the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund exhibition. It was humbling to spend a few moments reconnecting with my first reason for travelling to Rwanda, that being to support gorilla conservation.

Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund Karisoke exhibit. Musanze #VisitRwanda
It was quite moving to get a peek into Dian Fossey’s life in the mountains

Next stop Kigali.

The advantage of having fluid plans is you can take up new opportunities as they present themselves. The downside is you occasionally get stuck without a place to sleep! Thanks to Moses Nezehose who booked me in at the Tea House, another great establishment which is walking distance from Remera, a part of the city that I’ve come to know a little over my years of visiting Kigali.

On my first trips to the capital, I would stay at hostels run by various convents. (You can’t argue with $10 a night, even if the shower is cold). Centre Christus Hostel in Remera is set in green, bird (and monkey)-filled gardens away from the main road and I’ve been happy to stay there on several occasions.

On the second leg of my trip in Kigali, I was spoiled rotten. I spent three nights at the fabulous Pili Pili Boutique Hotel. My – it was heaven – so much so that I didn’t leave the compound for three days! My heart skipped a beat when the beautiful breakfast tray arrived in my room.

The cosmopolitan bar and brilliant music at Pili Pili were quite a thrill for this girl from the village! I loved the fresh grilled Sambaza fish from Lake Tanganyika and enjoyed my chats with Rudy, Pili Pili’s owner. I was fascinated to hear about his former life running hotels and bars in Bujambura. I visited Burundi in 2012 and really fell for the place. J’adore l’Afrique francophone!

Pili Pili Bistro and Boutique Hotel, Kigali

Pre-booked visitors ousted me from my little pad – goddamit – meaning it was time to download Air BnB and try my luck getting a cheap room in the city. Within minutes I was booked in to stay with Josiane and her four young sons. It was hard to understand where she lived so she came to meet me midway on a moto. She couldn’t have been nicer. She almost fell off her chair when I told her that Uganda is the Source of the Nile. She was quite adamant that it is in Rwanda! The debate continues…

After the comforts of a luxury set-up, it was nice to spend time with a Rwandan family. They treated me well and the meals were huge. (As for the cockroaches, well I’m glad I didn’t see any on my first night there; the longer I stayed there, the bigger the cockroaches I saw!)

I happened to be in Kigali on a Sunday when roads are closed to allow city residents space to run and exercise. Groups were exercising at Amahoro Stadium that morning as I walked to Java House in Remera where I fell in love with rhinos! Did you know Rwanda has just successfully relocated five black rhinos from Europe to Rwanda? The transformation of Akagera National Park is sensational, as I have witnessed on my last two visits there.

On my last day in Kigali, I headed to the Rwanda Development Board offices, also in Remera. Tourism, conservation and many other departments are managed by RDB. Boy what an impressive setup. Did you know that it’s free to register a business in Rwanda? Did you know that it generally takes only six hours to do that? The ‘one stop shop’ at RDB really is that. You can make bank payments, get advice from copyright specialists and immigration officials and have someone sit with you and guide you through the whole process of setting up a company, from start to finish. Let’s not do comparisons with Uganda…

Upstairs, I was delighted to see Moses, one of our hosts at the brilliant Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony. Kwita Izina is the annual celebration of conservation and tourism in Rwanda and now lasts a whole week.

Lunchtime took me back to the famous Chez Lando for my final brochettes (grilled meat on skewers) of the trip. I do enjoy Rwandan food. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – 10 snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).

The final leg of my trip took me back to Kampala. Life is easy when you can jump in an Uber as soon as you hit the city outskirts! Boutique B&Bs were a bit of a theme on this trip and I was thrilled when Albert Ntambiko invited me to stay at the new Mahali Guesthouse in Makindye. Albert is also the owner of Coffee at Last. Mahali is housed in the new Coffee at Last building, just a few steps away from the original establishment.

Coffee at Last is my favourite cafe in Kampala. I'm pictured here with Sam Risbond and Olive
Coffee at Last is my favourite cafe in Kampala. I’m pictured with Sam Risbond and Olive Nakiyemba one Saturday

Like I said, I seem to have this habit of leaving home for three days and returning after three weeks! Last year’s four day trip to Mombasa led to invitations to visit high-end hotels in Nyali, explore backpacker hostels and luxury beach resorts in Diani and attend Diani’s Five A Side International Beach Touch Rugby Tournament. (I arrived home three weeks later!)

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10 fascinating facts about flamingos, Lake Elmenteita, Kenya

10 fascinating facts (I bet you didn’t know) about flamingos!

Flamingo-watching, horse riding among zebras, a game drive in search of elands, giraffes and Secretary Birds – what more can a girl ask for? Sigh… read about my three action-packed days at the luxurious Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp, Soysambu Conservancy in Kenya’s Rift Valley.

For many years I’ve had a postcard decorated with bright pink birds next to my desk. Seeing flamingos in their natural environment has been high on my African travel bucket list for longer than I remember. Although flamingos are occasional visitors to Uganda, their numbers are low and their arrival unpredictable. I was therefore thrilled to have the opportunity to visit Kenya’s Lake Elmenteita, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Important Bird Area, famous for its flamingo and pelican populations.

Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp has a superb range of activities for the active (and the not so active!) Horse riding, game drives, archery, a lakeshore breakfast, birdwatching and the Serena’s wonderful Maisha Spa are just a few highlights. Would the muzungu be able to fit them all in my three-day stay? (If you know me, you know I want to try everything!)

Scroll down for 10 Fascinating Facts about Flamingos.

Diary of a Muzungu horseback safari at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp (Photos Charlotte Beauvoisin)
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As soon as I stepped out of the vehicle, my eyes were drawn to Lake Elementeita and the hill known as the Sleeping Warrior (AKA Lord Delamere’s Nose). Between us lay a chink of shining water. Were the flamingos there?

Checking into my luxury tent cum cottage would have to wait while I peered at the lake – and there it was! – a fine line of pink and the most extraordinary noise. (I was to become familiar with the funny noises that feeding flamingos make!)

Flamingos are so unusual that my mind raced with questions about their pink appearance, their unusual beak and their quirky dance! If you’re curious like I am, you might enjoy the tips I collected about these fabulous and unique birds.

10 Fascinating Flamingo Facts

Who can fail to identify a flamingo? These leggy tropical wading birds have long curvy necks. Most noticeably of all, they are pink!

Flamingos are water birds that live in and around lakes and lagoons. In East Africa, these waters are usually saline or alkaline.

Did you know… ? The pinkest flamingos have the highest status as their bright colour shows that the bird is good at finding food and thus strong.

Fun Flamingo Fact #1

Why are flamingos pink?

Flamingos embody the phrase “you are what you eat” and consume a diet of small fish, shrimps and crustaceans that live on lake algae. The pink comes from beta-carotene in the crustaceans.

Did you know… ? Flamingos that live in zoos will turn white if their diet is not supplemented with live shrimp or food containing carotenoid pigments.

The number of pink birds is increasing – this is a new thing according to my guide at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp. Other birds such as Yellow-billed Stork can be affected and you may see a pink tinge to their wings.

Flamingos are pink on the inside, too. Flamingo skin is pink; so is flamingo blood!

Fun Flamingo Fact #2

There are six species of flamingo. Two are native to East Africa.

The Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus) is the most widespread flamingo species. Greater Flamingos are bigger and have a defined S body shape.

The Lesser Flamingo (Phoenicopterus minor) is the most numerous species of flamingo. Lesser Flamingos are smaller but pinker!

Did you know… ? Both flamingo species can be seen at Lake Elmenteita.

Fun Flamingo Fact #3

Did you know… ? Flamingos feed upside down while dancing? They hold their breath while feeding too!

Their feet disturb the lakebed and release algae. With their head upside-down, they suck the muddy water and filter the lake’s nutrient through their specially designed beak.

Fun Flamingo Fact #4

Groups of flamingos are known as colonies and may number several hundred birds. In East Africa, more than one million flamingos have been known to flock together.

Did you know… ? As breeding time approaches, a high-status flamingo will influence the rest of the flock to breed by changing its feathers to a deeper shade of pink, kick-starting the breeding rituals. Isn’t that amazing?

Fun Flamingo Fact #5

Did you know… ? A colony of flamingos all mate at the same time so chicks all hatch at the same time.

Flamingos are monogamous and produce one egg each year. The pair build a nest of mud and sticks and take turns to sit on the egg while it incubates. When a flamingo chick hatches, after a month, both parents take turns to feed it. Their straight beaks start to curve as they grow. Flamingo chicks are born white or grey and take up to 3 years to reach their mature pink colour

Flamingos breed on Lake Natron in Tanzania but spend most of their year on lakes in Kenya.

Fun Flamingo Fact #6

Did you know… ? You can see flamingos (those that are not breeding) throughout the year at Lake Elmentaita.

The breeding flamingos – and young – return to Lake Elmenteita from May onwards. During June 2018, there were more flamingos here than ever: almost the whole lake was covered, according to my guide at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp.

From late December to January flamingos fly to their breeding ground on Lake Natron in Tanzania. A number always remain at lake Elmentaita – with the large pelican population – throughout the year.

Fun Flamingo Fact #7

Did you know… ? Although flamingo numbers are fairly stable, Lesser Flamingos are considered near threatened because their numbers are small or decreasing, according to the IUCN (International Union for the Conservation of Nature).

Fun Flamingo Fact #8

Flamingos live between 20 and 30 years, some longer. They have one of the longest lifespans in the bird world.

Did you know… ? Fossil remains show close relatives of the flamingo existed around 30 million years ago. This makes them one of the older bird species

Fun Flamingo Fact #9

Do you know why flamingos stand on one leg when they want to rest? It’s been suggested that having one leg out of the water preserves body heat.

A flamingo knee bends backwards (and is covered in feathers). The “knee” that we see is actually an ankle joint. 

Fun Flamingo Fact #10

The word ‘flamingo’ comes from the Spanish word ‘flamenco’ meaning fire, which refers to the bright colour of their feathers (naturally!)

Flamingos and birdlife, Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp. (Photos Henry Sanoe and Serena Hotels)
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The spacious tented accommodation at the 4-star Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp is a clever combination of fixed walls and canvas that rolls up to reveal mosquito-netted windows. Each cottage has a private view of the lake.

Rooms are furnished with colonial-style furniture: a wooden floor, a large desk complete with cubbyholes for letters, a desk lamp, a hefty wooden chest with brass fittings, a day bed, a dressing table, and overhead a chandelier (of course) and framed prints of some of East Africa’s most exotic birds such as the flamboyant Northern Carmine Bee eater, and Lilac-breasted Roller.

I had two delicious nights sleep on a ridiculously comfortable mattress. I was in seventh heaven when I found hot water bottles warming my bed! Mosquito nets drape around the four-poster bed and fall to the floor. My bathroom had ‘double vanities’ (twin basins); it had two of everything in fact – even a double ‘his and her’ shower! Toiletries are provided in large wall dispensers. (Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp is Gold Eco-rated after all!) Each cottage is well connected with power sockets, a phone and plenty of hot water.

About Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp

  • The 25 luxury tented accommodation can sleep up to 50 people.
  • The Flamingo Suite is the closest accommodation to the lake and perfect for honeymooning couples.
  • Complimentary activities include cooking with the chef, watercolour painting, a botanical tour, archery, Swahili lessons and yoga
  • Other (charged) activities include night game drives, massages and bush dinner.
  • The swimming pool is gorgeous!
  • There is a small ‘conference tent’ that can be set up for up to 35 people

For more information…

  • Why not combine a stay at Lake Elmentaita with a few days at the Nairobi Serena Hotel? Read my blog ‘How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel.’
  • Rates are usually based on full board and include Soysambu Conservancy fee and numerous (but not all) activities; mineral water or soft drinks with meals. Family offer: children under five years sharing rooms with parents stay free.

Travel tips and Directions to Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp

  • The journey by road from Nairobi takes 2 1/2 hours. Distance from Nairobi 135 km; Nakuru 30 km; Nakuru National Park (Nderit gate) 27 km.
  • Fly by private plane or charter to nearby airstrip.
  • Land a helicopter at the camp’s helipad.
  • The final approach to the Conservancy is on a good new road. Within five minutes we were in dusty bush and almost immediately saw bushbuck, warthog and impala.
  • The Soysambu Conservancy was created in 2007 and is known as a ‘dual land use’ conservancy of wildlife with livestock. The Conservancy’s 48,000 acres (190 square km) protects 12,000 wild animals (including Rothschild’s giraffe, zebra, eland, buffalo, leopard and lion), 7,000 cattle and 4,000 goats and sheep. The conservancy is clean, quiet and isolated from modern life. (I found comfort in not seeing any human activity on the lake).
  • Visitors to the Conservancy can only gain entry by booking in advance. This policy is because the Conservancy’s infrastructure can only support a limited number of vehicles. This limited access gives pre-booked visitors an exclusive experience. Book through the Conservancy’s tourism partners (such as Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp) or camp.
  • Soysambu is very accessible and you don’t need a four-wheel-drive. If you buy a map of the conservancy then you don’t need to hire a guide.
  • For additional wildlife excitement, Nakuru National Park is a stone’s throw away and home to a few species you can’t see at the Conservancy, including white rhino, black rhino, striped hyena and elephant.
  • By comparison, conservancy fees are very affordable (and included in the rates for staying at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp).

Read full details about Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp’s facilities in my Travel Directory.

Have you visited Lake Elmenteita? How much do you LOVE flamingos?

How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel

On my last trip to Nairobi, I stayed at the fabulous – gorgeously renovated – Nairobi Serena Hotel. Over breakfast (an event in itself!) I planned a day’s sightseeing.

I was disappointed to see the rain falling and reluctantly shelved my plan to take a short walk through Uhuru Gardens to the Murumbi Gallery at Point Zero. The Murumbi Gallery started as the private collection of Joseph and Sheila Murumbi who travelled the continent to curate a mind-boggling collection of artefacts that present African culture through hundreds of years of craftsmanship. The scope and beauty of the Murumbi Gallery’s collection is breath-taking. I have to visit every time I’m in Nairobi.

When I learned that the Nairobi Serena Hotel has their very own Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour, you can imagine my delight! In fact, this unique hotel tour is led by the highly professional concierge Felix Tiony who was trained at the very same Murumbi Gallery. There was no need to brave the rain: I could have my cultural experience (with a personal guide) within the comfort of the hotel.

Sculpture. King in Royal Dress, Edo, Court of Benin. Nairobi Serena Hotel
King in Royal Dress, Edo, Court of Benin (next to girl in a skirt). This sculpture depicts a Benin “Oba” (King) in royal regalia created of coral beads. The leopard heads on his chest represent carved ivory pendants. Benin was burned to the ground by the British in 1898. All the bronzes, ivories and other royal items were taken to England with the Benin king who died in a British jail. (Imagine my shame, reading this!)

Felix, a Concierge Clefs d’Or, explained how Alan Donovan, chairman of Murumbi Gallery and mastermind of the phenomenal Heritage House, had been curating interiors at Serena Hotels for over 40 years! My affection for Nairobi Serena grew deeper by the moment.

Click on the images in the gallery to read about some of the items on display.

Fragrant flowers are always a central part of the Serena Hotels’ decor. Here in Nairobi, next to the huge floral displays are intriguing historical artefacts, statues and carvings.

I believe the Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour is only supposed to take one hour but I was so full of questions that I’m sure I must have taken up three hours of Felix’s time!

Nairobi Serena Hotel. Architectural cultural tour. Sculpture by Expedito. Diary of a Muzungu
The late artist Expedito had a workshop at African Heritage Pan-African Galleries in Nairobi. He called this sculpture “the meeting place.” His “universal” embracing couple was designed to grace the grave sites of the Murumbis in Nairobi National Park. (So why is it on display at the Nairobi Serena?) Visit the hotel to hear how the sculpture came to be on display at the hotel and see more of Expedito’s works. Photo by Diary of a Muzungu

This tour is complimentary for hotel guests and Felix has a wealth of interesting details about the artefacts on display. He also revealed the Pan-African theme throughout every space in the hotel. As he described the motifs and their origins, I perceived the same shapes in the flooring, in etchings on glass windows, on furniture. It was thoroughly engaging.

Nairobi Serena Hotel. cultural tour Yoruba close-up

Established in 1976, the Nairobi Serena is certainly not just another Nairobi city hotel. I had a great feeling for its sense of history and its Pan-African theme.

The hotel’s architecture reflects a fusion of cultural influences from West Africa, Morocco, North Africa and Islam. Click on the images below to see the Bambara Lounge, named after the Bambara community of Mali and designed around a West African theme. The gorgeous hand-carved camphor wood panels depict African legends and superstition. The backdrop to the Mandhari Fine Dining Restaurant is a 60-foot Kisii soapstone mural of the Ngong Hills by Jony Waite. I loved the colourful lanterns, tapestry screens and Moroccan-inspired brass decorations of the Cafe Maghreb restaurant, also pictured below. The Ethiopian-themed Aksum Bar is named after the Northern Ethiopian town. The Kingdom of Aksum reigned at the heart of ancient Ethiopia until the 13th century. The Aksum Bar’s unique style is fittingly fun for a sports bar!

My guide Felix pointed out the motif of ‘an abstracted lizard,’ that originates from the Senofu people of Cote D’Ivoire where it can be seen carved on doors and is believed to be a sign of wealth and status. This is just one of many interesting symbols that run throughout the design of the hotel. (By the way, descriptions of various artefacts here are taken from the exquisite book My journey through African heritage by Alan Donovan, which is available in the Nairobi Serena gift shop).

The Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour is also available at the Serena Beach Resort & Spa in Mombasa and Kampala Serena Hotel and is complimentary to all in-house guests.

If you’d like to experience the Nairobi Serena Hotels’s tour for yourself, call +254 (0)202 842333 / (0)732 123333. Read more about the fabulous Nairobi Serena Hotel’s 5 star facilities in my Travel Directory. It’s gorgeous beyond words!

Back in the saddle – horseplay at Speke Equestrian Centre

Straight from the horse’s mouth: what’s on at Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo

horse riding Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo, Kampala

I loved being back in the saddle again. The smell of horses is addictive!

Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo for horse riding, hacking, pony rides for children, horse riding lessons, kids’ Pony Camp.

It surprises me how little leisure time Kampala residents spend next to Lake Victoria, when I know how refreshed I feel after just an hour or two by its waters.You can’t beat the feeling of space you have by the lake which is why, if you’re looking for a new hobby or a day out, I highly recommend some time out at Speke Resort, Munyonyo – ideally on a horse at the Equestrian Centre! High on my bucket list of once-in-a-lifetime adventures is doing a multi-day horseback safari. I used to ride when I was a teenager but I know I need to invest in some more riding lessons before I embark on such a big adventure. My recent stay at Speke Resort – and the smell of the horses! – has really whet my appetite for that bigger endeavour.

Speke Equestrian Centre pony camp Kampala

Preparing for a horse riding lesson at Speke Equestrian Centre. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Speke Equestrian Centre pony camp Kampala

Some of the Speke Equestrian Centre’s horses. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Speke Equestrian Centre horse riding lessons

If you’re just having a pony ride or ‘taster’ riding session, you (and your horse!) will be led by an expert from Speke Equestrian Centre down to the marina. The horses are calm and well-behaved.

Speke Equestrian Centre horse riding lessons Kampala

Prices start from 40k ugx for a 20 minute pony ride. A one-hour hack (for experienced riders) is 70k every day (except Sunday and public holidays when it costs 80k). Rates are slightly higher on Sundays and public holidays. Private or group lessons offer good value for money. Packages of ten lessons are also available. For horse riding enquiries, contact Speke Resort.

In conversation with one of the staff at the Equestrian Centre, he explained that they currently have nine ponies and five large horses suitable for adults. They are expecting to acquire another four horses over the coming months.

In addition to the horses and equestrian facilities, the centre also has a bar where parents and friends can meet for a drink while Little Johnny is learning to ride.

Have you heard about the Kid’s Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre?

PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Learning how to trot at the monthly Kids’ Pony Camp

The Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre is a two-day event training kids how to ride ponies. Children between the ages of 4 and 17 are invited to enroll for the monthly Pony Camp that’s been taking place at Speke Resort Munyonyo since 2015.

Saturday morning is a riding session. No experience is necessary as children are grouped into beginners, intermediate or advanced riders. In the afternoon, the children go swimming in the resort’s Olympic size pool. On Sunday morning, children are treated to a full breakfast at the resort, followed by a morning ride. Pony Camp finishes at 12.30 with a small prize-giving and Certificates of Participation. There are prizes for the weekend’s best participants: the top two riders get medals, and the third placed rider is awarded a Best Camper Certificate.

Speke's Equestrian Centre provides safety helmets

Speke’s Equestrian Centre provides safety helmets

Pony Camps costs 100,000 Uganda shillings for the two days. This includes an overnight stay at the accommodation block (in separate boys and girls rooms) next to the Equestrian Centre. (Parents who live nearby may wish to take their kids home for the night and bring them back the next morning). The Sunday breakfast is included in the cost. (Parents are expected to cater for the kids’ other meals).

Have you checked out Speke Resort recently?

Not only is it well-equipped for conferences and large meetings, Speke has a range of weekend activities. On Sunday afternoons at Speke Resort from around 3 PM, you can enjoy a DJ and live band, or acrobats and a market for an entry fee of just 5,000 Uganda shillings per person. Friday night is band night at Lake Terrace and complimentary to guests and everyone eating at the restaurant. Saturdays are frequently busy with weddings and wedding parties. Read Olive’s blog #MarryMeAtMunyonyo – Getting Married At Speke Resort, Munyonyo.

The resort’s swimming pool, gym, sauna and steam are a haven for Kampala residents throughout the weekend. Entry is 40,000 ugx for a full day’s swimming (and all-important lounging!)

Why not make a whole weekend of it?

Interior of one of the suites, Speke Resort

Interior of one of the new suites

At the time of writing, Speke Resort’s weekend package is $180 full board (excluding taxes) for two people sharing and includes all the above activities and more: a half hour boat cruise and a 10 minute horse ride for children. Bed and breakfast and room only weekend rates are also available, visit the Speke Resort site for all tariffs.

Speke Resort's marina on Lake Victoria. PHOTO Evelyn Masaba

Speke Resort’s marina on Lake Victoria. PHOTO Evelyn Masaba

Prefer a round of golf? Guests staying at Speke Resort can get a preferential rates at Lake Victoria Serena Hotel’s golf course, a short drive from Munyonyo thanks to the opening of the Entebbe Expressway.

For info on any of the above, call +256 (0)414227111 or (0)417 716000 or email spekeresort@spekeresort.com or reservations@spekeresort.com

And finally, when you visit the resort, perhaps you’ll see me learning how to ride again, practicing for my next big African adventure – on horseback!