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Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]

Kampala expats share their experiences and advice about moving to Uganda with a young family. (It’s mostly very positive!)

I regularly receive questions about moving to work in Uganda and about expat life in Kampala. There are so many great things to say about Uganda but visiting for a couple of weeks isn’t the same as living here. If you’re travelling to the country on safari, or to track the gorillas, you may bypass the capital city entirely, but I love Kampala! It may be intense but the buzz can be addictive.

Is Uganda safe to visit? FOR COMMENTS ON LATEST NEWS, scroll down to the post comments

Below is a typical question I received via WhatsApp recently, in response to my popular post “Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats.” My posts have hundreds of questions from readers – and I reply to them all – however, I thought it would be useful to share answers to this common question. Names have been withheld but all comments are genuine.

“I am moving to Kampala in a few months with my wife and our 3 year old daughter. Of course the worst thing you can do is Google ‘is Uganda safe?’ Lots of words like terrorism and don’t travel. Can you give any info or advice on safety for a young family. I have been to Angola and Uganda for short periods by myself and must admit I felt very comfortable in Kampala. Are the current precautions in place by other governments just that or are there real issues ongoing? Thank you in advance.”

I have my own views and experiences (since moving here in 2009) but was interested in what the expat community would advise. Here are some of their comments.

Is Uganda safe? Uganda is very safe in my opinion. Crowded areas are – as everywhere in the world – places where you’ve to pay more attention but Ugandans are very homely and friendly. For me the most dangerous thing is the road in the sense of accidents.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree. Traffic and road safety are likely to be the biggest daily concern.

Crowded places are safer than empty streets in terms of violent crime, though you might get your pockets picked 

Kampala Expat

One expat added “I wouldn’t recommend that women walk alone at night.”

In my humble opinion the biggest threats are the night clubs and overnight church services… and traffic. Other than that, it’s a great place to live and there is plenty for kids to do. The key in Kampala at least is to live close to work and school.

Kampala Expat
rush hour boda boda motorbikes Jinja Road Kampala. PHOTO Diary of a Muzungu
Rush hour at Jinja Road Kampala. Boda boda motorbikes. PHOTO by Diary of a Muzungu

Is Uganda safe? Yes, road safety and electronic-device-thefts are the two primary concerns. Terrorism is no more a threat here than in the countries which issue the warnings – indeed is probably even less of a concern here – but is a possibility anywhere in the world, sadly. I feel like my children are safe from threat of kidnapping and such. Now the trash burning and air quality in Kampala are pretty bad. If they have any lung issues (allergies, asthma, etc.) that’s something to consider. I’m personally having health issues because of it.

Kampala Expat

Another person agreed that “The overall air quality in Kampala is bad. Wish someone had told me so I could have made a decision about it beforehand.”

I find Uganda massively child friendly having moved here from London 2 years ago. We were here for the bombs which were scary but didn’t feel like they directly targeted us. You can be in the wrong place at the wrong time but more of that kind of thing has happened in my home city than here so I guess it depends where you are coming from. My main concerns here for the kids are them getting seriously sick (not happened as yet), traffic accidents outside of Kampala as traffic is slow moving in the city so unlikely to hurt a child in a car.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree the bombings were very scary but I worked in London when we had bombs on the buses and Tube… It’s a reminder that terrorism can strike anywhere…

A mother agreed that “My kids have a much more carefree existence here in Uganda than in London.”

Thanks to all of you for the unbiased review of Uganda. Life in Uganda can be quite addictive. Once in you may find it hard to leave.

Kampala Expat

“Best practice is to forward government travel advisories straight to the bin”

Is Uganda safe? I personally stopped reading the travel advise as it makes you scared for no reason. I feel the general travel advise given by western governments about developing countries is based on the 60’s and 70’s and not much has been updated. So i generally tell people to give Uganda a trial period of 3 months as you can either love it or hate or be in the middle as the advises based on individual persons are so biased and not a representation of the local populace and country or counties. above all they should see Uganda with the local lenses.

Kampala Expat

“Uganda is a beautiful country full of really nice and friendly people. Come and have a very enjoyable life experience. Most of the above comments are correct and good advice.”

We have just arrived in Kampala 3 weeks ago. We are still finding our way around, but we generally feel safe, my biggest issue is the traffic and crazy driving and the vendors at traffic lights. Bring a car seat. Also visit the house you want to rent at night… nightclubs are 7 days a week and no mercy on the volume. Lol. We are moving already 臘‍♀️. But it’s not a bad place, delicious fresh fruits and vegetables from the markets, people are very friendly too. I had the same concerns coming here with my kids (3 & 7).

Kampala Expat

Is Uganda safe? The most beautiful & the most crazy. We live in a pollution-free part of Kampala, no humidifiers necessary or air cleaners & I love it so much I haven’t been back to England since I’ve left. Cost of living is amazing & the ability to grow a business & also retire at the same time is amazing. Opportunities here are in abundance & just like anywhere in the world just have to focus on your child’s habit of learning outside of the education curriculum. I wish to be able to fall in love with this city all over again outside of when initially did when I first arrived ❤️ 

Kampala Expat

“Is Uganda safe? Kampala is relatively safe for a city of its size and nature. It has some rough edges, but I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous except for the roads.”

The muzungu: government travel advisories are always very cautious, since if anything goes wrong, your government will have a responsibility to protect you. Sometimes, I can’t recognise the country advisories are writing about! And they are always skewed against developing countries. It is always best to check with local people if you have any doubts about the security of a destination.

The muzungu writes one last thought: Uganda has a thriving expat community of many different nationalities. You will find plenty of support for you and your family. If you’re a tourist, rest assured no-one is going to advise you to come to Uganda and put you at any known risk. Keep asking questions, listen to – and take heed of – local advice and you will have a fantastic experience!

New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😎

Top things to do in Kampala [UPDATED]

What’s on in Kampala?

Visitors to Uganda are often driven straight upcountry, away from the congested capital. That’s understandable since the country’s main draw are the National Parks. Also, since most visitors live in towns, you can understand they don’t find the idea of a busy city appealing. Kampala is where the crime is – like cities the world over – yet it’s dynamic (and I always feel a sense of excitement as I approach the city). Many now realise we have underestimated Kampala’s attractions and in 2022 Uganda Tourism Board opened a tourism information office in the grounds of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel.

muzungu pilgrim Uganda Martyrs Catholic Shrine Namugongo
Kampala, the capital city of Uganda, is a cosmopolitan mix. At times, deeply traditional, at other times as modern as anywhere in the 21st-century… on this particular day I was a pilgrim at the Uganda Martyrs Catholic Shrine at Namugongo to the east of the city

Kampala – affectionately known by some as KLA – is a great place to live. This crazy, noisy, congested city can drive you nuts at times but there’s always something going on. Eh! I hardly know where to start…

What’s for breakfast in Kampala?

Okay, let’s start the day with coffee. Cappuccino is my personal weakness, and can now easily – although not cheaply – be found in most of Kampala’s major shopping centres, big hotels and urban areas. Some of my favourite coffee shops in Kampala include Coffee at Last in Makindye, Cafesserie and Endiro at numerous locations (the cosy Endiro Nakasero cafe is run by deaf staff), Le Petit Village at Quality Hill on Ggaba Road, Café Kawa in Tank Hill, Muyenga and Café Pap in Parliament Avenue and Ntinda. The Southside Market at Dancing Cup in Bugolobi is a popular Saturday hang-out. CJ’s (Cafe Java’s) – at various locations – always have excellent service (and large portions, especially during Ramadan). These also serve African tea.

What’s the perfect accompaniment to morning coffee? Croissants (yes!) or beef sambosas (samosas) and of course the number one Ugandan delicacy, the famous rolex! (“Rolled eggs” omelette in a chapati). Katogo (steamed savoury banana with beans or meat) is a popular Ugandan breakfast. I love it! (Unless it contains ‘gizzards’). Yuck.

Muchomo roasted meat Kansanga, Kampala
Muchomo roasted meat on sale in Kansanga, Kampala. A busy stall is usually a good sign!

Coffee / tea break over, Kampala’s markets are excellent. There’s a market for everything but you have to be ready for haggle. Expat tip: go with a Ugandan friend, unless you want to pay ‘muzungu price’ for every other thing.

Fancy a spot of shopping?

Popular Kampala markets are Nakasero (fruit, vegetables, spices and grasshoppers) and Nakawa (everything – and slightly cheaper than the markets in town). I love Ggaba market on the edge of Lake Victoria. It’s a great place to pick up brightly coloured Tanzanian cloth (as well as all your fruit and vegetables, the cheapest mukenne and other fish, fresh or dried). (The maze-like Owino was once Kampala’s best place for second-hand clothing, shoes and bags; the packed and chaotic downtown is still the best place for all kinds of bargains).

If you’re into arts and crafts and souvenir shopping, head to the extensive ‘Daisy Arcade’ craft market on Buganda Road. There are a small number of craft shops behind the National Theatre too.

Feeling arty?

Artist Reagan Kangole specialises in recycled art
Artist Reagan Kangole specialises in recycled art

Kampala has a small but thriving art scene and most exhibitions are free. The best way to find out what’s going on is to follow them on social media. Kampala art galleries include Nommo Gallery, Afriart Gallery on Seventh Street (in the Industrial Area) and Umoja. The Uganda Museum has occasional art shows, in addition to the permanent historic displays. The museum is very dated but still has a certain appeal. It’s definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have a guided tour. Kampala’s Alliance Francaise and Goethe Institute always have a busy timetable of events.

The National Theatre in central Kampala has a programme of dance, drama and art. There are regular shows, films, dance classes and jam sessions. The best way to find out what’s on at the National Theatre is to visit in person or look for their monthly flyer.

The National Theatre was the original venue for the annual Bayimba Festival. Bayimba has since moved to Lunkulu Island on Lake Victoria.

Experience Uganda through music and dance!

Traditional dancers at Ndere Cultural Centre, Kampala
The traditional dancing at Ndere Cultural Centre, Kampala, blew me away. What a welcome!

The Ndere Troupe’s show is the perfect introduction to Uganda for new visitors, but honestly everyone should watch this brilliant show, more than once! The highly professional Ndere Troupe is a must-see celebration of Uganda and Africa – through traditional music and dance on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday nights. The Ndere Centre is on Kampala’s Northern Bypass. Read my blog about Ndere’s sensational musical and cultural experience.

Did you know, Kampala has the best nightlife in East Africa?

Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. National Theatre, Kampala. Geoff Walker
Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. National Theatre, Kampala. Photo Geoff Walker

Don’t take my word for it, dive into Kampala’s nightlife! My friends from Nairobi love this party city. Downtown Kabalagala is famous from here to Kigali to Goma to Bujumbura and Dar – and every part of East Africa in between.

Move over Acacia Avenue and Muyenga, Kisementi and Bugolobi are Kampala’s more popular nightspots these days with new bars and restaurants opening all the time. Kampala’s top hotels have New Year parties, fireworks, live music and more. Ugandans love to party anywhere! Every neighbourhood has several bars. If you like your beer cheap, just sit on a wooden bench outside your local shop. Local ‘pork joints’ are usually good value for money too (unless you’re a vegetarian of course!)

Kampala’s Industrial Area has the city’s best known nightclubs: Guvnors and Ange Noir, but you don’t need to go to a nightclub to dance. Have a few drinks and we will dance anywhere in UG!

Guide to eating fish, Lake Victoria - Diary of a Muzungu
Required drinking: Uganda waragi! **Click on the fish to read my guide** ‘Where to eat fish on Lake Victoria’ – Ggaba, Kabaka’s Landing Site, Mulungu, near Munyonyo

Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix).

Diary of a Muzungu, Kampala Insider Guide, Politiken Rjejser, Denmark
“Firebrand. Charlotte Beauvoisin lives and works in Kampala in Uganda. When she’s not blogging, she works as a volunteer in various wildlife and nature conservation projects.” Politiken, Denmark’s most popular daily newspaper, asked for my recommendations on the top things to do in Kampala for their Insider Guide.

As for getting to all these great places safely, the muzungu is a big fan of “ride hailing apps.” In 2022, Lolo was my new favourite; SafeBoda now provide cars as well as bodas. Uber and Bolt may have been first but they lost the plot during the fuel crisis, with driver after driver doubling the fees. Driving in Kampala is a favourite (tongue in cheek) blog.

Prefer to walk?

Kirsty Henderson's Kampala Map
Look out for Kirsty Henderson’s Kampala map. On sale in numerous cafes and hotels and in Aristoc in Kampala

Are you interested in history and architecture? The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda has launched a book, maps and a *free* mobile phone app all about Entebbe, Jinja and Kampala’s historical buildings. It’s a fun way to tour the three towns. Read History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a free mobile app.

This page is work in progress – it merely skims the surface of Kampala!

Looking for more thngs to do in Kampala? Send me a message!

How to make international calls from Uganda [UPDATED]

In this blog post I share my personal tips on Ugandan mobile phone and internet providers, where to find free WiFi, SIM card registration and how to send money using mobile phone apps.

Making an international phone call from Uganda can be pretty straightforward. It can also be a right pain in the kabina (bottom).

When I first arrived in Uganda as a volunteer, I very rarely called home. For some reason outbound phone calls from the UK to Uganda were easier. Skype video calls just didn’t work.

Making a Skype call from Uganda circa 2009

A Skype conversation would go something like this:

Caller: Hi

The muzungu: Hi

Caller: How are you?

The muzungu: I’m fine. How are you?

Caller: I’m sorry, what are you saying? You’re breaking up a bit. Can you say that again?

The muzungu: I can hear you. I’m fine, how are you?

Caller: I can’t really hear you, there’s a bit of an echo on the line, I don’t think I can cope with this.

The muzungu: [Sigh…]

I think to myself: “This conversation is starting the same as the last one, and the one before that. Can we move on and have an actual conversation?”

… Call drops off…

The average conversation lasted for four minutes. I would redial and we would have a two-minute chat. The whole conversation proceeded in two-minute chunks, before one or both of us just gave up.

Muzungu using laptop
Trying to call home. Julia took this cheeky shot one morning – you may not be able to tell, but I was actually dressed!

How to make international calls from Uganda using your mobile phone

Calling directly from your mobile phone in Uganda is far cheaper than it used to be. In fact, sometimes it is cheaper to call than to send a SMS. Mobile phone companies offer call bundles; pre-paid international call bundles are very affordable and can be loaded directly from your Ugandan-registered SIM card. Skype too is better, thanks to improved internet speeds; just don’t expect the video to always work. WhatsApp has transformed connectivity and Ugandans have embraced using Zoom, Google Meet and other communication apps. Rainy weather can affect the quality of the internet (the call quality can also be affected by someone cutting through the internet cable under the sea!)

The best-known providers are Airtel and MTN, and many of us have two phones or dual SIM phones. Other providers include Lyca Mobile, Tangerine, Zuku and Roke Telecom. Note that Africell, Smile, Vodafone and Zain no longer exist and the future of government-owned UTL is unclear (January 2023). It’s very rare to have a home landline phone in Uganda. Airtime can be purchased in tiny amounts and just about anywhere.

How do you pay using your phone if you don’t have a Ugandan bank account?

Mobile money ‘M sente’ has revolutionised airtime and bill payments. Kenya Safaricom led the world in developing M-Pesa, the first solution for sending money and airtime and paying bills via your mobile phone. I rely on mobile money apps to pay my bills. They are robust, reliable, secure and widely accepted. Buy a local SIM card and you can load local currency to buy goods and services and send money to friends, family and colleagues. The two most common providers are MTN and Airtel.

mobile phone airtime vendor
How to call home from Uganda. You can buy airtime on every street corner in Uganda. In 2023, this kind of ‘scratch card’ has been replaced by street kiosks where money or airtime are added to your account digitally by a vendor

My relationship with MTN

I once spent an afternoon hidden in an airtime vendor’s shack in downtown Kampala, sheltering from an immense thunderstorm. As rain battered the roof, I had an illuminating conversation “Grasshoppers – nsenene: do you eat them or smoke them?”

And then of course there’s “MTN Sunday.” What is that all about? Without fail, every Sunday for several years, I lose contact with everyone. Texts disappear or arrive a day and half later, thus “would you like to meet for Sunday lunch?” has to be organised a day or two in advance. If Sunday is maintenance day, why have I never received a SMS telling me so? (I first wrote this post in 2013 – it was still true in 2018 – and at the end of 2023, I still had issues with my MTN line on Sundays!)

So how does the muzungu call abroad now?

Video Skyping works like a dream now with 4G. My sister prefers FaceTime and mum calls via WhatsApp. I can’t believe how easy it is to call internationally from Kampala now!

How can you access internet on your phone in Uganda?

Ugandan SIM cards can be bought very cheaply everywhere, whether at the exit of Entebbe Airport or at vendor kiosks everywhere. Show your passport to register the SIM card. You can also buy a portable wireless MiFi (some tour operators provide these for guests who want internet accesss while on safari).

You’ll find free WiFi at Entebbe Airport and in most hotels, cafes and restaurants in Kampala and in major towns and popular tourist destinations.

Do you have any tips on how to call internationally from Uganda?

… And if you have other travel tips or advice for expats in Uganda, please comment here or contact the Muzungu. I love hearing from you!

MASH-tastic! The muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi [UPDATED]

Taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Try MASH! Bus travel tips and visa info.

The brilliant East Africa Tourist Visa and Interstate Pass mean that travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda is easier than ever for nationals and has become easier and cheaper for tourists and expats too. Cue: a lot more travel around the three countries for this Muzungu! I’ve taken the MASH bus between Kampala and Nairobi a few times now, and can recommend it. [NOTE this blog post was updated in February 2023. We tried calling various advertised numbers, but failed to get through].

East Africa Interstate Pass Uganda Kenya Rwanda
The Interstate Pass allows visa-free travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda for nationals and expats with work permits

Traveling from Kampala to Kigali? Then read what happened when I traveled by bus with Jaguar Executive Coaches.

Overall, the Kampala / Nairobi MASH bus service has been excellent. I hardly felt the dreaded bump, bump, bump of the ‘rumble strips’ and managed to sleep most of the journey.  Or shall I say, I fell asleep / woke up / fell asleep / woke up…  over and over again.

We liked the idea of having a toilet on the bus. If it had been working, that would have been even better! According to the driver, “it is women’s fault that the toilets do not work.” Hmmm… surely they could have fixed it though?

The MASH system is well organised and departs – on time – from the relative calm of the National Theatre, making it a far less hectic experience than going to downtown Kampala bus parks with all their congestion and pickpockets. In Nairobi, however, the bus departs from the equally crazy River Road. Have your wits about you here, as lots of guys will come running at you trying to sell you a cab fair / give you unwanted directions, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve just woken up! Don’t rush to get off the bus; pace yourself and check you have all your belongings first.

mash-bus-kampala-to-nairobi-river-road
The MASH bus stop in Nairobi is downtown in River Road

Back outside the National Theatre in Kampala, an hour before the agreed departure time, a lady called us over to a table in front of our bus where she checked our tickets and passports. Next to her, a very friendly guy checked the contents of all our bags. Another three men in bright orange overalls loaded bags and boxes into the bus. I was asked to remove the padlock from my bag, which obviously I did not want to do. I was told that it was necessary for the security check at the border. I removed a couple of valuables that I’d put in my big bag, and just hoped that everything else would be safe. It was.

The MASH bus was clean. The seatbelt worked, as did the single power socket on the wall next to me. I chose to sit in the second class ‘executive’ section, just a few seats from the front. It had a decent amount of legroom and a reclining seat.  My friends in the VIP seats, directly behind the driver, had even more legroom, plus they were allowed to have their big bags with them.

Every bus passenger was handed a small packet of biscuits and a packet of sugary ‘juice.’ My experience of cross-border bus journeys in East Africa is to avoid drinking at all costs, as you can never be sure the driver will stop when you need him to! However, on the MASH bus, we had three ‘comfort breaks’ before we arrived in Nairobi. It’s a “short break for a short call” and these guys do not hang around, believe me.

The driver put on some loud music for our uneventful drive to the border.

Entering Kenya later that night, one of the immigration officials growled a demand to see my Yellow Fever certificate. Luckily I had a photograph of it on my phone.

mash-bus-kampala-to-nairobi-lake-elementaita-caldera
If you travel between the two East African capitals during the day, you get to see the beautiful countryside of Lake Elementaita and the area’s volcanic calderas

My friend Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey between Kampala and Nairobi. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat! “You snooze, you lose” as she likes to tell me… Lol.

mash-bus-kampala-to-nairobi-lake-elementaita-view
Early morning view of Lake Elementaita – photo from my bus window 🙂

According to Wikipedia, “Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dryness and dustiness of the area, especially between January and March. In the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elmenteita is between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru. The major Nairobi – Nakuru highway (A104 road) runs along the nearby escarpment affording motorists a spectacular vista towards the lake. Today the lake is a protected area due to its birdlife. Elementeita – together with Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria – has been named a heritage site by UNESCO.” (In 2019 I finally went on safari in Lake Elmenteita – I am still thrilled at the large numbers of flamingos I saw that weekend! The horse ride along the lakeshore was spectacular).

Travel tips for taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi

NOTE: I don’t guarantee all info is correct. You should check prices, departure times yourself. This is a personal account based on my own experience.

  • MASH buses leave on time.
  • The MASH booking office in Kampala is in Dewinton Road opposite the National Theatre. 
  • In Uganda, you can use MTN mobile money to purchase your ticket. Tel +256 (0)774 082853 is the MTN Mobile Money number registered to Mash Bus Services. I used this myself. I first called the booking office to reserve my seat numbers; confirmed my payment using mobile money; then made a second phone call to check they had seen my payment.
  • The MASH booking office in Nairobi is in River Road. Their official number is +254 733 623260. In Kenya, you can also book your bus tickets and reserve your seat online and pay by Safaricom’s M-Pesa. (Paybill number 857988). This worked well too.
  • To double check ticket prices and times, check out the MASH East Africa website or visit one of their offices.
  • Please don’t message me – I don’t work for Mash, I’m just a customer like you 😎
MASH bus Nairobi booking office, River Road
MASH bus Nairobi booking office, River Road

Bus departure times from Kampala and Nairobi

(Please get there early: we’ve called several times to check timings and prices and the info given is inconsistent). Ticket classes are: VIP, business class and ordinary (availability depends on whether you get MASH POA or MASH COOL).

Kampala to Nairobi

At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the National Theatre.

Nairobi to Kampala

At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the MASH office in River Road.

MASH bus ticket Kampala to Nairobi. Diary of a Muzungu
MASH bus ticket Kampala to Nairobi

MASH Cool is the air-conditioned bus. (MASH POA can get a bit sweaty!) I liked MASH Cool but you will need a blanket (or shuka) if you take the overnight bus. The MASH Cool bus has curtains too.

  • Make sure you have your Yellow Fever and COVID-19 vaccination certificates (or a negative PCR test).
  • Keep photographs of your passport and other important travel documents (bus ticket and Yellow Fever Certificate) on your phone.
  • Although the bus does have power sockets, in my experience, they don’t always work. Take a spare battery pack for long journeys so you can access digital documents any time.
  • Nationals of Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya just have to show a passport or national ID and are given a temporary Interstate Pass. Ugandans who do not have passports are advised to get a temporary travel document. Cost 10k UGX. If you’re in Kampala, you can get one issued at Port Bell (or you can buy it at the border).
  • Expats with work permits can get an Interstate Pass at the border as well. There is no form to fill in (just the standard arrivals form) and there is no cost. Yay!
  • If you need a visa, you are supposed to apply online in advance, whether it’s for a single country visa or an East Africa Tourist Visa. However, all visas appear to be available in person at a border (except EATV, you’ll need to read my blog about that one).

    Check out the blogs I’ve written about tourist visas

  • Uganda – NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online
  • East Africa – What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide
  • Rwanda – Rwanda announces all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival
  • The set-up at the Kenya / Uganda border has changed and you now leave one country / enter another within the same building. Previously, you had to get your exit visa from one country and then walk across the border before getting your entry visa into the next country. I found the new system confusing and had apparently entered Kenya illegally! Apparently I did not have one of the required passport stamps, even though I had been processed by three different people at immigration.
mash bus kampala to nairobi muzungu selfie
Early morning selfie of the muzungu. The best neck rest cushion ever from Definition Africa in Kampala
  • The MASH ticket says “Smoking, alcohol, chewing miraa is prohibited. Maximum luggage limit is 15 KG, any extra weight will be charged. Passengers are warned not to take any foodstuff offered by stranger.” In the past there were incidences of bus passengers being drugged and robbed (not on any particular route or with any particular bus company).
  • In addition to the Uganda / Kenya route, MASH also operate to major towns across Kenya.
  • Dreamline have also been recommended to me.

Have you taken the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Which operator do you recommend?

Kampala’s top hotels & restaurants for Christmas & New Year! [UPDATED 2022]

Where are you celebrating Christmas Day? And which is Kampala’s best hotel for New Year?

DECEMBER 2022: If you’re celebrating Christmas in Kampala, the restaurants at the capital’s top hotels have a long list of festivities planned for you. Below is the muzungu’s choice of Kampala’s leading hotels and restaurants, all updated for 2022.

Scroll down to whet your appetite for festivities happening in Kampala on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.

Kampala has something for every taste: cocktails, brunch, lunch, high tea and barbecues; buffets, traditional Christmas dinners, gala dinners and Christmas-themed menus, children’s activities, carol concerts, pool parties and fireworks. Hotels have special seasonal accommodation offers. Why not relax somewhere snazzy for a few days? Pamper yourself and enjoy a spa treatment.

Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉

The Maisha Spa at the Kampala Serena Hotel has a selection of seasonal spa treatments. December 2022

Christmas and New Year at the Kampala Serena Hotel

Below are a few highlights of the Kampala Serena Hotel’s festive season. Click on the images for their 2022 programme or download the whole programme here.

Christmas Eve 2022 Christmas carols and high tea. Kampala Serena Hotel
Christmas Eve 2022 Christmas carols and high tea by the pool at Kampala Serena Hotel

Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Lake Victoria Serena Hotel

Click here for the Lake Victoria Serena’s Xmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offers.

Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel

Scroll down for a few highlights of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s holiday programme.

Kampala Sheraton Hotel Christmas staycation packages 2022
Kampala Sheraton Hotel. Christmas 2022 and New Year staycation room packages
Kampala Sheraton Hotel Christmas Brunch 2022
Sheraton Kampala Hotel Christmas Brunch 2022 with entertainment by Tracy Noel and Queen of Acoustic Band
“Ring in the new year with family and friends over great food, music and a stunning fireworks display that will keep your spirits high.” For bookings call 0312 322 499 / 0752 711191 #KampalaSheraton #MarriottHotel #SheratonFestive #NewYearsEve

Christmas 2022 and New Year at Speke Resort Munyonyo, Kampala

Speke Resort has a comprehensive Xmas and New Year programme, with activities planned throughout the holidays. The Christmas Day programme includes live band, kid’s play area and Santa! Christmas Lunch Buffet includes a complimentary glass of bubbly.

Highlights of the Xmas 2022 programme at Speke Resort Munyonyo
Xmas 2022 the famous “round the world” lunch buffet at Speke Resort Munyonyo
Christmas cake Speke Resort
Look at the little muzungu – dwarfed by the massive Christmas cake at Speke Resort! (My first Xmas in KLA)
Speke Resort Munyonyo’s Christmas Eve 2022 dinner

Splash out at Le Chateau Brasserie Belge! Christmas Eve and Christmas Buffet 2022

Le Chateau. Le Petit Village Hotel Kampala Xmas lunch buffet 2022
Le Chateau is the fabulous restaurant adjacent to Le Petit Village Hotel at Quality Hill on Ggaba Road (next door to the US Embassy). Kampala Xmas lunch buffet 2022
Le Petit Village Hotel Kampala Xmas programme 2022 (1)

Christmas Day at Mestil Hotel, Nsambya, Kampala

The Festive Season is a joyous time of Celebration at Mestil Hotel & Residences. Enjoy special moments as you celebrate with friends and family.

Mestil Hotel & Residences, Kampala

Protea Hotels by Marriott, Kampala

Kampala has two Protea Hotels: the first one is on Acacia Avenue; the second “Skyz” is in Naguru. Both hotels have a number of special festive meals planned for Xmas 2022 and the New Year. The Chapter Two Restaurant at the Protea Marriott Naguru Skyz Hotel has amazing views of Kampala’s skyline – as the name suggests!

Protea Naguru Skyz Hotel Kampala Christmas Day lunch menu 2022
Protea Naguru “Skyz” Hotel Kampala Christmas Day lunch menu 2022
Protea Naguru Skyz Hotel Kampala Christmas Eve dinner menu 2022
Protea “Naguru Skyz” Hotel Kampala Christmas Eve dinner menu 2022
Protea Hotel Marriott Kampala festive season special December 2022
Protea Hotel Marriott Kampala (Acacia Avenue) festive season room rates. December 2022
Naguru Skyz New Year's Eve. Diary of a Muzungu sisters
My sister and I welcomed in New Year 2019 at the Naguru Skyz Hotel (now a Protea Marriott). It was ballistic! The fireworks were the best I’ve seen in Kampala.

Christmas and New Year at Latitude 0° Hotel, Kampala

Scroll down for a few highlights of Latitude 0° Kampala Hotel’s festivities.

Latitude 0 Hotel Kampala Xmas programme 2022
Latitude 0 Hotel Kampala Xmas programme 2022
Latitude 0 Hotel Kampala Christmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offer
Latitude 0 Hotel Kampala Christmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offer

Click on the images below to see more Christmas 2022 holiday ideas!

Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉

Let's not spread COVID just because it's holiday season! Remember to wear your mask, social distance and wash your hands regularly.
I don’t want to spoil the party but… it’s December 2022 and there’s a new variant of COVID so think about wearing your mask, social distancing and wash your hands regularly (especially if you’re not vaccinated)

For Christmas and New Year bookings, please contact the individual hotels and restaurants listed – and do say the muzungu sent you 😉

Wishing you a very Merry Christmas

“I have liked you”

Gonja and roasted goat: bus travel from Kampala to Fort Portal

The bus from Kampala to Fort Portal leaves at 7 o’clock in the morning and I am told to be there an hour beforehand. I catch a boda boda across the city as the early morning traffic gathers. It’s refreshing to be driving through the cool early morning air with my bag packed for five days on the edge of Kibale Forest – away from the laptop.

Our boda heads downtown – avoiding a certain saloooon – where we are surrounded by thousands of people all jostling to get to work, to sell their wares, gearing up for the day ahead.

As we turn a corner, a tall man in bright green overalls shouts “Link? Link?”

I wasn’t sure where to find the Link bus park but there’s no mistaking the man in green who runs up the street to a yard filled with buses of the same bright green. The word LINK is written in large yellow letters.

Link bus Kampala Diary of a Muzungu
The Link bus station in downtown Kampala is in one of the most congested parts of the city. As you approach the bus yard, men dressed in green uniform appear to guide you in the right direction.

I don’t have change (balance) so the man in green offers to take my money and buy a ticket for me and come back with the change for my boda boda. No thank you. He seems legitimate enough but I’m wary.  (Once-upon-a-boyfriend-ago, a similar move in Cairo by a very helpful stranger separated us from all our money – on the first day of our holiday). Alert for similar tricks, I walk to a shop opposite the Link bus station, buy two bottles of water and have the change I need to pay for my boda boda and my bus ticket without using an intermediary.

On board I squash myself in near the back of the bus. I choose to sit near a lady and her baby. She beams at me as I sit down.

“But I need some water,” she says very loudly (to me?)

I’m not sure what I’m supposed to make of this so I choose to ignore her.

Before the bus departs for Fort Portal, a man walks up and down the aisle selling cakes. A small round cake is 500 Uganda shillings; a big square slab of cake is 1000 shillings. I opt for the smaller cake to accompany my breakfast apple.

The bus leaves on time.

Diary of a Muzungu. Link bus station Kampala Uganda
Charlotte, Diary of a Muzungu boarding the Link bus to Fort Portal in Kampala Uganda [pre social distancing days]

I check WhatsApp while we are still in town. The guy next to me seems very interested in everything on my phone screen. “Ooo Facebook!” He exclaims. I try and ignore him and shield my screen from his interested eyes. His gaze keeps coming back to my phone. I glare at him. Out of the corner of my eye I see his ‘Nokia’ phone. I guess he is envious of my Smartphone. I feel bad for thinking mean thoughts.

We are seated one row in front of the back row. In my rush to get a seat I have (again) forgotten how I will regret sitting over the back wheel of the bus.

As the bus hits the open road to Fort Portal, phone networks go off and everyone settles down for a snooze. There’s a blast of cold wet air. Every time we slide the window shut, the juddering and shaking of the vehicle reopens it. The lady pulls the blanket over her child’s head. I try and keep myself warm by putting my bag on my lap.

The lady is trying to keep the window closed to keep her baby warm. The man sitting between us has fallen asleep. “Typical husband,” I think. “He’s asleep while she’s worrying about the baby.” I’m worried the baby is as cold as I am, so I fold a small piece of paper and pass it to her, thinking she may be able to use it to wedge the window shut. “Do you want me to put it out of the window?” She motions.

No!

I doze and am woken by the ringing of a phone. This lady does love to chat. I hear her cough and I get up to retrieve the second bottle of water from my bag. If she’s breast-feeding, she must need water.

We are halfway to Mubende before I buy my ticket. The ticket seller slowly works down the aisle, writing out each ticket by hand. The guy next to me peers into the pocket of my bag. I try and retrieve my money without showing him exactly how much I am carrying. He’s craning his neck to have a good look. The guy selling tickets doesn’t have enough change so he writes 5,000 UGX and his signature on the back of the ticket to denote that he has to pay me my balance.

nsenene Mubende
On a previous journey, we stopped to buy grasshoppers. A man ties a small sack of live nsenene to the front of our car in Mubende

At Mubende, plastic bowls full of roasted gonja and cardboard boxes of water and sodas are pushed up to the bus window. Someone waves roasted meat at us through the gap. I opt for a chapati. “Roasted or dry?” The young man asks me helpfully. I understand enough of the lady’s Luganda to know that she is complaining about the prices. She sends the young man to the shop with her order for orange squash and goat.

“I have liked you,” she said. “You can give me your number so I can call you.”

She tells me that she is going to Kasese (the stop after Fort Portal) to visit her parents for a few days and that she will go back to Kampala to see her husband.

“I thought this one was your husband?” I ask.

“No. This one I just met him on the bus.”

The young man jumps back on the bus brandishing wooden skewers of glistening roasted goat. He offers me one. It’s kind of him but I’m not in the mood for roasted goat. (I also recall the advice not to accept food or drink offered by strangers on public transport). This pair seem kind enough though.

He removes the flimsy bag (polythene paper in Uglish) from around the meat and screws into a small ball. He passes it to the woman who knows exactly what he wants her to do with it: she forces it out of the window.

He sits next to me, tearing at the meat with his teeth. His teeth hit a bone which he spits at his feet. A small heap of goat bones accumulate on the floor between us. The smell of roasted meat fills the air.

The chat chat chat starts again. I like this couple. She and her baby remind me of my niece and her baby. She is loud but friendly. He reminds me of someone from the village. He appears uneducated but innocent.

More passengers squeeze onto the bus. A lady passenger places her big bag on the aisle and sits on it and we’re off again. I am still standing up when the driver slams on the brakes. The guy next to me grimaces; I hang onto the side of the seat. There’s never a dull moment on the bus to Fort Portal.

On the other side of the aisle is a Muslim lady wearing a bright yellow headscarf and pink lipstick. She wears a bold kitenge print dress and an eyeful of cleavage.

I pull out a large tourist map of Kampala, fully expecting the young man to ogle at it and start asking questions. I’m rather pleased with my new map: KCCA have launched a tourism map of the city and I’m interested to see which places feature on it.

Nothing! The young man doesn’t even glimpse over. I read the map, unfold it, turn it over, fold again. I’m amazed – the guy doesn’t register interest even once! Is tourism just ‘a white people thing’ I ask myself?

I ask myself: I wonder if he can read? Or perhaps it’s only money and phones that make him tick?

The ticket inspector returns to check our tickets and I politely remind “sebo (sir)” whether he has my balance yet. He doesn’t seem to hear me.

“*Gwe!” Yells the young man, trying to back me up.

*It’s a little rude considering “Gwe” is old enough to be the young boy’s father!

Road travel from Kampala to Fort Portal via Mubende – tips for travelers

  • There’s a universal price of 300 ugx for a short call whether at Kampala Link bus station, en route at Mubende or at the bus station in Fort Portal.
  • For the best HOT gonja and chicken, buy directly from the women who are grilling (on the way back from the toilet!)
  • If you take the afternoon bus from Fort Portal, you may be lucky enough to see the sun set over Lake Wamala. What a wonderful, unexpected sight that was.
  • Link have made a lot of investment over the past few years: new buses, redesigned depots and generally helpful staff. The CCTV security system at the Kampala depot is another positive development too.
  • Buying bus tickets is a lot easier and more secure since Link introduced a new digital ticketing solution with the KaCyber app. It’s great because it promotes social distancing (avoid the scrum at the booking office!) Book your ticket in advance and pay using mobile money or PayPal. The KaCyber Go App is free to download but not available on all Link bus routes yet. The app is particularly useful now since it is a ‘contactless’ solution (no need to touch money or paper tickets so no need to sanitise your hands!)
  • I wrote this story before COVID-19 disorganised us.
  • Diary of a Muzungu readers know I regularly take the bus from Kampala to Fort Portal and in October 2020 I took my first bus journey of the pandemic. All travellers have to wear facemasks and everyone’s hands are sprayed with disinfectant. I sat between one empty seat and the aisle. For social distancing purposes, the pattern of vacant seats was repeated throughout the bus.

Do you travel by bus? What are your travel tips? If you enjoy my bus journey stories, I have plenty more 😎

History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a mobile app

The launch of three free maps, a free mobile app and a book of photography gives unprecedented information about Uganda’s architectural heritage at 60+ sites across Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe.

This is your chance to explore – and help preserve – Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe’s 60+ historical buildings and sites – and it’s nearly all FREE!

One of the (few) things that I miss about Europe is the architecture. The continent’s rich history is preserved and celebrated through houses and office blocks, castles, and palaces. The collective history of these buildings can be traced back centuries.

My early career was spent working with architects in London and my mantra was always to ‘look up’ – to explore what was going on above street level, beyond the modern signage and the shop facades.

Uganda has some interesting old buildings but many are under threat from developers who would rather put up something new than re-purpose an existing structure. Although some buildings may look dilapidated now, there’s no reason why most can’t be given a face lift. In Europe, heritage is a big business.

Kampala's historical buildings and sites
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I was therefore delighted when Verity from CCFU told me all about a brilliant initiative that aims at preserving what remains of Uganda’s unique built heritage. I have visited the Baha’i Temple and Jinja’s old buildings fascinate me; I often wonder at the history of the old buildings along Kampala Road. It’s now easier than ever for you to explore these and many more places yourself. If you work in tourism, how can you include these places on a tour?

Uganda’s Built Heritage – a free mobile phone app

The app features over 60 buildings that represent Uganda’s architectural history, covering the pre-colonial era and post-independence Uganda.

Uganda’s Built Heritage app brings Uganda’s history to life as you walk or drive down the street!

Uganda’s Built Heritage. CCFU app screenshot
The “Uganda’s Built Heritage” app is free to download
Uganda’s Built Heritage app screenshot
A view of the Kampala section of the “Uganda’s Built Heritage” app
  • See photos, descriptions and contact information for historical sites and buildings
  • Read overviews of each town and city
  • Plan walking or driving routes between historical sites
  • Set up alerts to notify you when you pass historical places
  • Share your discoveries with friends online

Click here to download Uganda’s Built Heritage app from Play Store (Android) or App Store (iPhone). The app is free

Maps – explore the historical sites of Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe

Three high-quality maps have been produced to help tourists and members of the public understand and appreciate the history around us. The maps detail the historical buildings and sites for each of the three cities with a clear annotated street plan.

Map of Jinja's Historical Buildings and Sites CCFU
Map of Jinja’s Historical Buildings and Sites from CCFU
  1. A Map of Kampala’s Historical Buildings and Sites
  2. A Map of Jinja’s Historical Buildings and Sites
  3. A Map of Entebbe’s Historical Buildings and Sites   

Click on the links above to download PDF versions of each map or visit the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda

“Beyond the Reeds and Bricks – Historical Sites and Buildings in Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe” photographic book

“Beyond the Reeds and Bricks: Historical Sites and Buildings in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe” presents beautiful pictures that were taken exclusively for this project. The narrative sets the 60+ locations in their historical, social and political contexts and highlights why they still matter today.

Jinja's historical buildings and sites
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This book bears witness to the richness of Uganda’s historical buildings and sites (some hidden, some prominent) surrounding us in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe. From the legacy of pre-colonial kingdoms to the introduction of western education, medicine, and religions, the growth of commerce and industry, through to Uganda’s forging a new independent identity, this book documents the country’s story through those historical buildings and sites that still stand today.

"Beyond reeds and bricks" photo book Kampala, Jinja, Entebbe CCFU
“Beyond the reeds and bricks” a photographic book about Historical Sites and Buildings of Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe

The book is available at Aristoc, Kardamom & Koffee (KAR Drive in Kololo), Entebbe airport departure lounge bookshop and from CCFU’s office on Makerere Hill. The book is priced at 150,000 UGX.

Background to this project

Urbanization, rapid population growth and the drive for modernity have created a constant demand for higher-density development (such as multi-story apartments). These are often on plots which are already occupied by historical buildings and sites. As a result, many heritage sites have already been lost forever. The risk of losing more of the county’s heritage is real and needs to be addressed as a matter of urgency.

Loss of historic sites means a lost connection with a shared past. Without the unique features of the built environment, one Ugandan city risks becoming indistinguishable from any other. Each building has a story to tell about the people who lived or worked there and about the history of Uganda.

This issue is recognized internationally through Sustainable Development Goal 11, reflecting a global realization that many urban cities are expanding fast and risk losing their historical and cultural identity if heritage infrastructure and associated cultural values are not preserved and promoted.

National and local government are strongly encouraged to “identify, list, protect and promote historical properties in their respective cities and to serve as examples of preservation champions to other municipalities.”

Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda. European Union launch event May 2019 CCFU
Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda. European Union launch event May 2019 CCFU

On African World Heritage Day 2019, the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) with support from the European Union together with Ugandan partners launched a mobile app, three maps, and a photographic book. The aim of the project? To protect the posterity of historical buildings and sites in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe.

Entebbe's historical buildings and sites
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The three products illustrated here are the result of a year-long collaboration to mark the 2018 European Year of Cultural Heritage “which provided an ideal opportunity to share the European experience with like-minded Ugandan institutions.” The Embassy of Ireland is also acknowledged for its role in the early days of this project.

The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) is a national not-for-profit NGO, dedicated to promoting the recognition of culture as vital for human development that responds to Uganda’s national identity and diversity. CCFU was founded in 2006, premised on the conviction that positive aspects of culture can be harnessed to bring about social and economic transformation. For more information visit the CCFU web site email ccfu@crossculturalfoundation.or.ug or call +256 (0)393 294 675 / 7.

If you enjoy history, you might like my pictures of Kampala railway station and Nairobi railway station.

Take time to explore these great resources from CCFU. Our children may thank us one day.

Back in the saddle – horseplay at Speke Equestrian Centre

Straight from the horse’s mouth: what’s on at Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo

horse riding Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo, Kampala

I loved being back in the saddle again. The smell of horses is addictive!

Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo for horse riding, hacking, pony rides for children, horse riding lessons, kids’ Pony Camp.

It surprises me how little leisure time Kampala residents spend next to Lake Victoria, when I know how refreshed I feel after just an hour or two by its waters.You can’t beat the feeling of space you have by the lake which is why, if you’re looking for a new hobby or a day out, I highly recommend some time out at Speke Resort, Munyonyo – ideally on a horse at the Equestrian Centre! High on my bucket list of once-in-a-lifetime adventures is doing a multi-day horseback safari. I used to ride when I was a teenager but I know I need to invest in some more riding lessons before I embark on such a big adventure. My recent stay at Speke Resort – and the smell of the horses! – has really whet my appetite for that bigger endeavour.

Speke Equestrian Centre pony camp Kampala

Preparing for a horse riding lesson at Speke Equestrian Centre. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Speke Equestrian Centre pony camp Kampala

Some of the Speke Equestrian Centre’s horses. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Speke Equestrian Centre horse riding lessons

If you’re just having a pony ride or ‘taster’ riding session, you (and your horse!) will be led by an expert from Speke Equestrian Centre down to the marina. The horses are calm and well-behaved.

Speke Equestrian Centre horse riding lessons Kampala

Prices start from 40k ugx for a 20 minute pony ride. A one-hour hack (for experienced riders) is 70k every day (except Sunday and public holidays when it costs 80k). Rates are slightly higher on Sundays and public holidays. Private or group lessons offer good value for money. Packages of ten lessons are also available. For horse riding enquiries, contact Speke Resort.

In conversation with one of the staff at the Equestrian Centre, he explained that they currently have nine ponies and five large horses suitable for adults. They are expecting to acquire another four horses over the coming months.

In addition to the horses and equestrian facilities, the centre also has a bar where parents and friends can meet for a drink while Little Johnny is learning to ride.

Have you heard about the Kid’s Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre?

PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Learning how to trot at the monthly Kids’ Pony Camp

The Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre is a two-day event training kids how to ride ponies. Children between the ages of 4 and 17 are invited to enroll for the monthly Pony Camp that’s been taking place at Speke Resort Munyonyo since 2015.

Saturday morning is a riding session. No experience is necessary as children are grouped into beginners, intermediate or advanced riders. In the afternoon, the children go swimming in the resort’s Olympic size pool. On Sunday morning, children are treated to a full breakfast at the resort, followed by a morning ride. Pony Camp finishes at 12.30 with a small prize-giving and Certificates of Participation. There are prizes for the weekend’s best participants: the top two riders get medals, and the third placed rider is awarded a Best Camper Certificate.

Speke's Equestrian Centre provides safety helmets

Speke’s Equestrian Centre provides safety helmets

Pony Camps costs 100,000 Uganda shillings for the two days. This includes an overnight stay at the accommodation block (in separate boys and girls rooms) next to the Equestrian Centre. (Parents who live nearby may wish to take their kids home for the night and bring them back the next morning). The Sunday breakfast is included in the cost. (Parents are expected to cater for the kids’ other meals).

Have you checked out Speke Resort recently?

Not only is it well-equipped for conferences and large meetings, Speke has a range of weekend activities. On Sunday afternoons at Speke Resort from around 3 PM, you can enjoy a DJ and live band, or acrobats and a market for an entry fee of just 5,000 Uganda shillings per person. Friday night is band night at Lake Terrace and complimentary to guests and everyone eating at the restaurant. Saturdays are frequently busy with weddings and wedding parties. Read Olive’s blog #MarryMeAtMunyonyo – Getting Married At Speke Resort, Munyonyo.

The resort’s swimming pool, gym, sauna and steam are a haven for Kampala residents throughout the weekend. Entry is 40,000 ugx for a full day’s swimming (and all-important lounging!)

Why not make a whole weekend of it?

Interior of one of the suites, Speke Resort

Interior of one of the new suites

At the time of writing, Speke Resort’s weekend package is $180 full board (excluding taxes) for two people sharing and includes all the above activities and more: a half hour boat cruise and a 10 minute horse ride for children. Bed and breakfast and room only weekend rates are also available, visit the Speke Resort site for all tariffs.

Speke Resort's marina on Lake Victoria. PHOTO Evelyn Masaba

Speke Resort’s marina on Lake Victoria. PHOTO Evelyn Masaba

Prefer a round of golf? Guests staying at Speke Resort can get a preferential rates at Lake Victoria Serena Hotel’s golf course, a short drive from Munyonyo thanks to the opening of the Entebbe Expressway.

For info on any of the above, call +256 (0)414227111 or (0)417 716000 or email spekeresort@spekeresort.com or reservations@spekeresort.com

And finally, when you visit the resort, perhaps you’ll see me learning how to ride again, practicing for my next big African adventure – on horseback!

A rainy season journey: ‘nsenene’ grasshopper road trip to Fort Portal

A rainy season journey: nsenene grasshopper road trip to Fort Portal

Our dawn departure from Kampala is marked by streaks of pink and orange daybreak filtering over Port Bell and Lake Victoria. Houselights twinkle in the darkness. Kampala is so pretty at this time of day.

We are driving to Fort Portal. Along Hoima Road, a traffic policeman dressed in white leaps out into the road to intercept a passing saloon car that has large white canvas sacks billowing out of every window.

An excited Julia shouts “nsenene!”

Grasshoppers are back on the menu!

nsenene grasshopper road trip
A handful of cooked ‘nsenene’ grasshoppers Entebbe. Did I enjoy them? (Scroll down…)

It’s rainy season and there is a glut of nsenene (grasshoppers). The sacks contain live insects that are hung out of the window of the moving vehicle to keep them cool as they are transported to Kampala markets. Ugandans are going crazy for the delicacy, with queues of people lining up downtown to buy them.

Vehicle after vehicle drives towards us laden with white canvas sacks.

It’s 7 o’clock on a November morning.

Julia recounts the story of the day she bought a quarter sack of nsenene on a previous road trip between Fort Portal and Kampala. The kids were screaming with excitement at the thought of feasting on them. Grasshoppers do not have a long shelf life. They have to be ‘cleaned’ (their wings and legs removed) before they can be washed and cooked. Everyone arrived home from the long journey exhausted, she said, but then had to spend several hours plucking off wings and legs! “I think everyone was too sick to eat them after that!”

I remember opening the fridge the next day to find it full of grasshoppers (in addition to the chicken feet and cow hooves reserved for the dog!)

boy holding nsenene grasshoppers grasshopper road trip
As sweet as the wording on his T-shirt: a young boy delicately holds a bunch of live nsenene grasshoppers Mubende. PHOTO Malcolm Wilson

On our journey, Malcolm likes reminding us that Julia was a full-on vegan when they first knew each other many years ago on the Mweya Peninsula in Queen Elizabeth National Park. Back then a grasshopper would not have passed her lips.

At a small trading centre we see some lovely looking chapatis. “Let’s stop for a rolex,” Malcolm says. Everyone loves a rolex. The popular Ugandan street food (of an omelette wrapped in a chapatti) has gone global this year (thanks to an article called ‘The African dishes you should be eating’ on CNN.com)

Our car pulls up next to an open-air butchery. Next to the car, the butcher hacks at a lump of meat with a machete. His face is covered with tiny flecks of meat. Big slabs of beef hang on hooks, intestines lie glistening on a table.

“I’m just going to get some cow hooves for the dogs,” Julia informs me. (Barf. Did you need to tell me? I beg).

As she walks towards the butcher, she stumbles over the head of a recently butchered cow. It sits upside down on the muddy ground, bright red blood draining onto the dark floor. A man straps the cow’s head to the back of his bicycle and wheels it away.

Malcolm gets back into the car frustrated. “That guy has a chapati, the other guy has eggs, but no-one can make me a rolex!” He is on a mission. He decides to return to the stall and get the vendors organised.

Meanwhile, I should not be surprised to see Julia instruct a man to tie a bag of grasshoppers onto the front of our vehicle!

nsenene Mubende grasshopper road trip
In Mubende, a small sack of live nsenene is fixed to the front of our car

A woman rushes over with a basket of roasted gonja (bananas) on her head. A young man walks up to our parked car and shows me a gold coin. He asks me how much I want to buy it for. He’s trying to sell the muzungu a 20 cent Euro coin. (I wonder if he’s been asking every passing muzungu to buy it).

A happy Malcolm gets back into the car with three monster-sized rolex. The chapatis are thick and well-cooked. They are delicious! We are ten minutes south of Mityana.

“One, two, three, four, five, six, seven, eight, nine, ten, eleven, twelve!” Malcolm counts twelve Great Blue Turacos. “They must have just come out of roost,” he says (meaning the birds have just left their overnight perch).

Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin

As we continue our journey towards Fort Portal, more cars come towards us, overloaded with grasshoppers.

“I could carry three sofa sets on the roof of my car today and none of the traffic police would notice!” Exclaims Julia. This morning, the traffic police are only interested in watching the vehicles heading to Kampala.

En route we talk about birds, we talk about conservation, we talk about the many poacher snares and traps that have been recovered by Uganda Conservation Foundation and Uganda Wildlife Authority.

Last time I drove this road I had to slam on the brakes to avoid crashing into a cow that walked straight into the road without looking (it seems to be a Ugandan trait!)

We pass lines of bright shiny corrugated iron sheets, set in horizontal lines to catch grasshoppers. The insects are attracted by a bright light bulb that reflects onto the metal. The insects crash into the metal sheets and land in the buckets at the bottom.

muzungu's first taste grasshoppers (nsenene) grasshopper road trip
The muzungu’s first taste of grasshoppers (nsenene) – I quite like them now I have stopped obsessing over wings and legs!

At Mubende, we pull over for Julia to buy some fried grasshoppers and mbuzi roasted ‘goat on a stick’.

“That’s baboon meat!” Shouts Malcolm.

“It’s not baboon!” Laughs the meat-seller.

A man selling water and sodas bangs on the window and tells me to put the window down. I bang back at him angrily. He gets the point and we smile at each other through the glass.

I spot three Hooded Vultures at the top of a tree “the ones with pink necks” I say. The birds’ necks are feather-free to stop them getting covered in blood and core as they eat corpses. “Vultures are known as coprophages,” Malcolm corrects me “because they eat turds!”

Driving through Kiko tea estate, outside Fort Portal, thousands of grasshoppers float above the bright green tea bushes like a layer of green mist. The emergence of grasshoppers floats above the tea and up into the air.

A troupe of eight black and white Colobus Monkeys sit at the top of a tree in a clearing next to the tea plantation. I’m surprised to see them in such an open area. “They do very well in disturbed forest,” Julia – the primatologist – tells us.

We are travelling to Kanyanchu where Julia’s land touches Kibale Forest. For many years she lived in a treehouse in the middle of the forest while she followed, studied and habituated the chimpanzees that are now so popular with tourists.

Malcolm grabs his binoculars to take a closer look at large flocks of Abdim Storks that are circling high in the air, to our left and to our right. “Must be thousands of them,” he says.

According to Fanshawe and Stevenson’s The Birds of East Africa (the best book for identifying Uganda’s birds), Abdim Storks are “nomadic and gregarious.” They are seen in Uganda between October and November as they follow “the rains and burns” on their flight from northern Africa. They are known as “opportunistic” feeders and are undoubtedly making the most of the grasshopper season.

Abdim’s Stork in flight, Tanzania. PHOTO Jonathan Rossouw
Abdim’s Stork in flight, Tanzania. PHOTO Jonathan Rossouw

We talk about migration and Malcolm explains how birds use thermals to cover vast distances. “You will notice that vultures are never in the air at the start or the end of the day. They need the hot air rising off the land to allow them to climb high. Vultures can go up 1 or 2 km and then slowly guide for 400 miles. Doing this, they expend very little energy.”

He tells us about a Ruppell’s Griffon Vulture that was seen 12 km above the surface of the earth by a commercial pilot. Vultures have incredible eyesight and watch each other from up on high. I like hanging out with Malcolm Wilson. He is an expert ornithologist and ringer or ‘bander,’ at the very top of his game, and revered by many birders in Uganda. Not only can Malcolm identify a bird, he has a mine of fascinating facts to explain what we’re looking at. “A vulture only drops for one reason: a kill. When one drops out of the sky, the others follow.” Read about his ringing expeditions and bird watching tours across Africa on his web site.

Tooro Botanical Gardens Fort Portal
It’s fun buying plants at Tooro Botanical Gardens in Fort Portal

At Tooro Botanical Gardens, a young man called John guides us through the various plants, telling us both the English names and the Latin names. With John’s help, Malcolm and Julia pick out a selection of tree seedlings. Julia and I share a moment of realisation. Julia has been wanting to invite Malcolm to advise her on which plants and trees will help develop her land for birding tourism. Finally we are here. This weekend has been many years in the planning. I am so excited to be part of it.

There is a small fishpond in Tooro Botanical Gardens. It hasn’t been stocked with fish yet but there’s already a heron inspecting it. Julia correctly identifies it as a Black-headed Heron. The girl’s birding knowledge is coming on!

new road through Kibale Forest. walking cows
Walking cows along the new road through Kibale Forest

We drive on the new road through Kibale. The Chinese (of course) construction company have been working on it for a couple of years. It’s a good road in many respects but too wide. We bemoan how big and fast the road is. It passes directly through Kibale National Park, described as having “the highest concentration and density of primates in Africa.” We are worried how many of the forest’s animals will be killed by speeding motorists. There are a few road humps but nowhere near enough. We hope and pray that the speed humps will proliferate.

Our car passes through a troop of baboons. One stands on its two back legs to peer into the car looking for food.

I am appalled to see that one of them has had its whole snout (large pointed nose and lips) are missing. Its normally 3D face is flat. His front teeth are permanently visible but beyond this appalling wound, the animal looks healthy enough. Will he survive?

Another baboon, in the bush above the verge, picks at something that it holds in its right paw. It appears to be an animal skin. The baboon pulls the last bits of flesh off some skin “it’s most likely a vervet monkey,” Malcolm says.

tree cutting Sunbird Hill, Kibale with Malcolm Wilson
Can you spot them? Innocent gets a lesson in tree cutting from Malcolm Wilson at Sunbird Hill, Kibale

At our final destination, Sunbird Hill, Malcolm teaches us all about tree felling and the best plants to attract more birds to the forest edge. It’s an enlightening few days.

If you enjoy my insect stories, read Grasshoppers – nsenene: eat them or smoke them? Discuss.

NEXT UP: Bayimba! “An unparalleled feast of music, dance, theatre, film & visual arts”

Bayimba International Festival of the Arts 10th Anniversary: exploring Uganda’s Art Wealth

Diary of a Muzungu is delighted to be one of the media sponsors of the 2017 Bayimba International Festival of the Arts! Scroll down this page to read the week-end’s PACKED programme of events and keep checking Bayimba’s Facebook page and Twitter for more news and updates. Follow the hashtags #Bayimba2017 and 

Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. Bwette Photography
Live music is a major – but not only – part of Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. Bwette Photography

The 22-24 September 2017 will be a ten-year celebration of Uganda’s multidisciplinary Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. Every third week of September, Kampala comes alive as a vibrant and eventful city when an unparalleled feast of music, dance, theatre, film and visual arts from renowned and upcoming artists are brought to the Uganda National Cultural Centre / Uganda National Theatre.

Celebrating ten years of Bayimba International Festival of the Arts

Looking at today’s arts entertainment scope, Kampala alone boasts of a variety of festivals, it’s a different scenario looking back 9 years later. The birth of Bayimba Festival changed event organizing in Uganda, during an era with few platforms to showcase artistic works. The festival’s 1st edition echoed possibilities and creative empowerment that opened every artist’s way of thinking about creating and not job seeking. At the same time as the country’s live music scene was kicking in, the platform offered live performance workshops to artists, mentored them to apply for other festivals across the globe. Bayimba’s international status caters for diverse audiences and its unique programming consists of exhibitions, contemporary fashion, dance and multiple arts. Slowly, artists adopted a system of organizing their own events to try similar ideas, to grow their own networks and develop business relations in order to sustain themselves.

In the present day, Bayimba continues to serve as an important benchmark for the consumption of the country’s finest arts through its signature initiative “The Bayimba International Festival of the Arts,” an annual three day arts fete that happens every September.

Bayimba International Festival of the Arts Kampala. James Wasswa
Bayimba International Festival of the Arts Kampala. James Wasswa

Fast forward to 2017 and this year marks the festival’s 10th anniversary. A glance of what’s on offer has an array of diverse arts, ranging from performance arts set to thrill crowds on the two stages, where the list of performers include: Uganda’s self-styled Ghetto President “Bobi Wine who makes a second appearance since 2015. Mariam Ndagire will open day one’s recitals for female dancehall outfit Cindy to close. Other performers are: self-claimed King of Mwooyo Maurice Kirya, Percussion Discussion Africa, 90’s gospel group Limit X, Lily Kadima and Coopy bly. Dr. Jose Chameleone is set to headline day two.

Some of the regional and international acts set to join this edition’s main stage are: Kenya’s Nyaititi maestro Makadem, Tanzania’s Jaggwa Music, South Africa’s Dr Bone (returning for a second do after an interrupted piece last year), in addition to South African afro soul Diva Berita, Ugandan-born Danish belle Feridah Rose, a recent winner of The Uganda Music Awards, Best Dispora Act and finally Ethiopia’s former Coke Studio representative Betty G.

makadem Bayimba International Festival of the Arts 2017
Makadem will be performing at the Bayimba International Festival of the Arts 2017 this September in Kampala

The Upper Garden arena of the National Theatre will host Stage 2. The line-up of acts here consist of genres whose collection varies from Hip hop, Reggae, Ragga, Mataali, musical conversations and DJ collaborations. Some of the acts include Zimbabwe’s Hope Masike, here to fuse her soulful ballads with Ugandan percussionist Haka Mukiga. The legendary hip hop duo and brothers Sylvester and Abramz, will incorporate female DJ outfits under the flagship of Femme Electronic, Rwanda’s Components RW, Netherland’s Bilvar Mvulu, Umoja Boys and Kenya’s Mwanase Ahmed together with Bayimba-run initiative Youth and Hip hop workshop beneficiaries Jo’Ge Flame, Kristien Carol & Shirley May and a whole lot more.

Besides the stage presentations, Ekyalo Bayimba will now return as Ekyalo Kasaayi, an artist’s dialogue space whose curation will be led by Liz Kaggwa and Drum Circle (popularly known for their Ngoma Jam sessions).

The auditorium activity slots encompass genres like Kadongo Kamu in the lead of heavy weights Abdu Mulasi, Chance Nalubega, Fred Sebatta and dramatical recitals by Omugave Ndugwa’s Balck Pearl and a lone man comedy show Mukalazi Edwin titled “HipHop Comedy,” and poetry to be presented by Kitara Nation poets, whose anthology recitals will cast college students.

Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. National Theatre, Kampala. Geoff Walker
Bayimba International Festival of the Arts takes place at the National Theatre, Kampala. Geoff Walker

Fashion is a signature activity of the festival and three of Uganda’s celebrated personalities will produce this aspect: Ras Kasozi of SEED FASHION a Skilled Expressive Entrepreneurial Designers show project designed by US Mission Kampala in collaboration with Kas Wear under the mentorship of Ras Kasozi; Gloria Wavamunho, curator of the Kampala Fashion Week and Buyi pheel of Kkoolo designs an entrepreneurial initiative of traditional art.

Over the past editions of Bayimba, Silent disco has proved to be one of the highlight activities, and will again appear on this edition’s menu, in the usual space – the Dance floor. In 2017, there will be film screenings, presented in partnership with the Swedish Embassy. Bikes and Cars is a documentary by Frederik Gertten. The Embassy will also feature a photography exhibition set against the climate change backdrop titled “Facing the Climate” and another exhibition by Switzerland’s reknown photographer Geoff Walker titled “Nodding Disease,” an awareness call about the epidemic and how it’s affecting northern Uganda.

Cindy Sanyu. Bayimba International Festival of the Arts 2017
Cindy Sanyu will be performing at the Bayimba International Festival of the Arts 2017

To further celebrate the festival’s multidisciplinary status, a couple of visual artists have been commissioned to present and curate festival spaces. Stacey Gillian, whose sculptural work focuses on misconceptions of gender equality in Uganda, will unveil a 3D art installation. Xenson Znja a multidisciplinary artist and fashion designer will present the main stage backdrop for the second time since 2009, while Fitsjerald Art Studio will present the stage two backdrops.

The festival’s ever-growing participation and appreciation by the general public ranks it among Africa’s top festivals. Bayimba is not only a celebration of music but also a celebration of Ugandan contemporary life, placing Kampala as one of the top East African tourism hubs.

The festival still struggles to rely on local sponsors, but luckily the emergence of many emerging festivals celebrates Bayimba’s vision. Bayimba, has proved to stand the test of time by attracting more and more sponsors over the last five years, contrary to what it was back in 2008 during its inception.

The Bayimba International Festival of the Arts is undoubtedly Uganda’s number one multidisciplinary festival!

Bayimba Festival 2017 poster. Buy tickets at PAYWAY
Buy your Bayimba Festival 2017 tickets at PAYWAY – just 10k UGX per day!

Here is the programme for the 2017 Bayimba International Festival of the Arts September 22nd – 24th! FEEL FREE TO SHARE IT 🙂

Friday 22nd // Stage One

19:00 Mariam Ndagire & Band (UG)

20:00 Berita (SA)

21:00 Dr. Bone (SA)

22:00 Jagwa Music (TZ)

23:00 Cindy Sanyu (UG)

Saturday 23rd // Stage One

19:00 Percussion Discussion (UG)

20:00 Lily Kadima (UG)

21:00 Feridah Rose (UG/DE)

22:00 Maurice Kirya (UG)

23:00 Jose Chameleon (UG)

Sunday 24th // Stage One

19:00 Coopy Bly (UG)

20:00 Limit X (UG)

21:00 Betty G (ETH)

22:00 Makadem (KE)

23:00 Bobi Wine (UG)

Friday 22nd // Stage Two

18:30 Mutundwe Matali Group (UG)

20:00 Jacinta (UG)

21:00 Haka Mukiga and Hope Masike (UG/ZIM)

22:00 Umoja Boys (NL) & Mwanase Ahmed (KE)

Sylvester Abramz Bayimba International Festival of the Arts 2017
Sylvester & Abramz will be performing at Bayimba International Festival of the Arts 2017

Saturday 23rd // Stage Two

15:00 Tujaali Performers (UG)

17:00 – 19:00 The Project INYE (GER/COLUMBIA/SA)

19:00 Apio Moro (UG)

20:00 – 21:00 Sylvester & Abramz (UG)

21:00 Components RW (RW)

Sunday 24th // Stage Two

14:00 – 16:00 Femme Electronic

18:00 Famous Friends (UG)

19:00 – 20:00 Jo’Ge Flame, Kristien Carol & Shirley May (Youth & Hip Hop) (UG)

21:00 – 22:00 Boliver Mvulu & Band (NLD/DRC)

Friday 22nd // Auditorium

12:00 – 14:30 BIKES VS CARS (Documentary by Frederik Gertten)

15:00 – 16:30 Kitara Nation School’s Project – Poetry (UG)

19:00 – 20:00 The Veiled Truth (UG/RW)

20:30 – 21:30 Abdu Mulasi (UG)

Saturday 23rd // Auditorium

12:00 – 13:00 “Facing the Climate” – Effects of climate change in Uganda

14:00 – 15:00 Kitara Nation – Poetry (UG)

15:00 – 16:00 Musical Stand Up Comedy – Edwin Mukalazi (UG)

18:00 – 19:00 Dance Performance (UG)

20:00 – 21:00 David Walters (FR)

21:30 – 22:30 Chance Nalubega (UG)

Sunday 24th // Auditorium

12:00 – 14:00 Punishment Island – Film

16:00 – 17:00 Black Pearl (UG)

19:00 – 20:00 Street Dance Force & ABC Fleva (UG)

20:30 – 22:00 Fred Ssebatta (UG)

Friday 22nd // Dance Floor

17:00 – 18:00 KKOOLO Fashion (UG)

Saturday 23rd // Dance Floor

17:00 – 18:00 Gloria Wavamunno (UG)

20:00 – 23:00 – Silent Disco/Headphone Disco

Sunday 24th // Dance Floor

17:00 – 18:00 Ras Kasozi & SEED Uganda (UG)

20:00 – 23:00 – Silent Disco/Headphone Disco

Saturday 23rd // Green Room

14:00 – 16:00 Dance Workshop (UG)

Drinking local brew. Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. Samuel Okocha
Drinking local brew at Bayimba International Festival of the Arts. Samuel Okocha

Open Space

Art Installation – Matthieu Tercieux (FR) & Eduardo Souillot (FR)

Photography Exhibition

Facing the Climate – Foyer

Nodding Disease –Theatre Noticeboard

Upper Garden

Ekyaalo Kasaayi & Drum circle Uganda

3D Bayimba Art Installation – Stacey Gillian (UG)

Stage One Backdrop – Xenson (UG)

Stage Two Backdrop – Fitsjerald Art Studio (UG)

All day Art and Craft sales/exhibitions.

Diary of a Muzungu one of the sponsors of Bayimba Festival 2017
Diary of a Muzungu is delighted to be one of the sponsors of this year’s Bayimba Festival!

Remember to keep checking Bayimba’s Facebook page and Twitter for more news and updates. Follow the hashtags #Bayimba2017 and 

“Vintage is elegance” – classic cars & fashion at the Kampala Sheraton

In case you missed it! Highlights from the 2017 CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show

Do you love the cars of a bygone era? East Africa has a surprisingly diverse auto collection to show you!

The gardens of the Kampala Sheraton were the perfect location for the recent CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show, now in its sixth year. This fixture is growing year on year, with 76 entries in 2017, thanks to the support of the Sheraton, CBA Bank Africa and a team who travel from Nairobi every year to help with the judging. To qualify to enter, competing cars must be dated 1992, or before. I’m no car expert, but I loved this event!

This year I had a chance to meet Bob Dewar, the Director of the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance, which is held in Nairobi and is now in its 47th year. (I confess I felt a twinge of homesickness when I heard his English accent fill the Sheraton Gardens and couldn’t wait to go over and say hello to him!) Bob has been key to the success of this event, also known as a Concours d’Elegance (concours means competition). He is in Kampala every year to support the Ugandan team and build the crowd’s interest in the cars on display.

Bob Dewar Kampala Sheraton grounds
Pictured left is Bob Dewar. He accompanied the judges as they inspected each vehicle and gave the crowd insights into the history of each car and motorbike

Later in the afternoon, there was a “Vintage is Elegance” themed retro fashion show in the Sheraton Gardens, followed by a live performance by legendary reggae artist Maddox Ssematimba.

mud on white trousers
We were not deterred by the weather, were we? After a few splashes of rain, the grey clouds gave way for sunshine… (Perhaps I should have looked at the weather before I put on white trousers and jumped on a boda boda! Standing behind a motorbike skidding on wet grass was only going to end up one way – in a splattering of mud!)

Who were the winners of this year’s CBA Uganda Vintage and Classic Auto Show?

Ronald Walusimbi’s 1967 Toyota Corona beat Patrick Mweheire’s 1965 Mercedes Benz by just two points. Walusimbi won the 2500 cc touring car class in 2016 with a 1974 Mercedes Benz. He was also the highest placed competitor from Uganda.

Walusumbi’s 1974 Mercedes Benz. Concours d'Elegance
Walusumbi’s 1974 Mercedes Benz will be a star entry in the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance to be held at the Nairobi Racecourse on September 24th. Last year he won the 2500cc touring car class in this machine. He will also take his Toyota Corona

This year’s Uganda winner is one of eight Ugandans who will be contesting the Africa Concours d’Elegance at the Nairobi Racecourse in September for the classiest event on the Kenya motor sport calendar.

CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show 2017, Kampala Sheraton
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An event with Kenyan connections and Buganda heritage

A team of nine Kenyan Concours enthusiasts participated in the Uganda event. Stephen Warui, who is a regular competitor in the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance, was placed sixth overall in his 1959 Volkswagen Beetle. He also won his class.

Stephen Warui. 1959 Volkswagen Beetle. Concours d'Elegance Uganda 2017
Stephen Warui puts the finishing touch to his 1959 Volkswagen Beetle in readiness for judging at the Uganda Vintage and Classic Auto Show in the grounds of the Kampala Sheraton. He took home the prize for the best competitor from outside Uganda
Katikkiro of Buganda congratulates Stephen Warui. Auto Show Kampala 2017
Chief guest Charles Peter Mayiga (left), the Katikkiro (Prime Minister) of the Buganda Kingdom, congratulates Stephen Warui (centre) for winning the prize for the highest placed competitor from outside Uganda. Stephen finished sixth overall.

There’s a strong connection between the Buganda Kingdom and classic cars. The first car in Uganda was a 1906 Albion 16HP engine car, given to Ssekabaka Daudi Chwa (1897-1939) by Sir Hesketh Bell. Kabaka Daudi Chwa owned a fleet of Buicks. Later, Sir Edward Walugembe Mutesa II (1939-1966) owned a number of Rolls Royce cars. One of these is on display at the Uganda Museum.

Next (pit)stop Nairobi!

Leslie Carvell, the overall winner of last year’s Kampala event, is a member of the Uganda contingent who will be taking their cars to the Nairobi Racecourse. She will spend two days driving her 1970 Volkswagen Beetle from Jinja to Nairobi.

Leslie Carvell. All About Uganda in a Beetle
In 2014 Leslie Carvell drove her Beetle the length and breadth of Uganda to raise awareness for the work of the Uganda Conservation Foundation

The Uganda team will have an impressive collection of crowd-pulling cars. This includes the 1983 Nissan 240RS of Bob Roberts and Katende Mukiibi’s 1971 Ford Escort. Another ‘star car’ is the 1957 Mercedes Benz 190SL roadster of Laban Mawanda which will be a strong contender for a prize in the sports car class.

Twelve members of the Uganda Bikers Association (UBA) will be riding their motorcycles from Kampala to Nairobi to have their machines judged by Concours officials.

Where did the Concours d’Elegance idea start?

For the past 47 years, Kenya’s annual Concours has been organised by the Alfa Romeo Owners Club. The event’s aim is to recognise and reward the owners of well-kept cars and motorcycles, ranging from SUV’s and pick-ups to motorcycles.

To ensure high standards of judging, car entries are limited to seventy and motorcycles limited to forty. Just a few places remain on this year’s entry list. Regulations and entry forms are available from the Bob Dewar Publicity office in Kijabe Street, Nairobi. Alternatively, email / call info@bobpr.com +254 (0)20 3316160 / (0)2229793 / (0)733 732032.

A vintage and classic tour of East Africa – and beyond!

The influx of entries from outside Kenya confirms the status of the Concours as a pan-African event.

Three members of the Vintage Motorcycle Club of South Africa – with bikes of course! – are flying to Nairobi from Johannesburg to compete. There is now a classic car club in Dar es Salaam and several members are keenly interested in driving in a convoy to Nairobi to take part in the Concours.

Charlotte Morris Minor
My first car was a Morris Minor – back in the day!

I’m rather spoiled. I have grown up around classic cars, thanks to my dad. Indeed, my first car was a Morris Minor. (I think the idea was that if I had an old motor, I wouldn’t be able to drive too fast!) I had such fun in that car, it oozed character.

If you’re a ‘petrol head’ – or just appreciate a bit of motoring history – put these two East African motoring events in your calendar! 

Downtown dreadlocks. The muzungu’s blind date

What did I say to Julia?

After one dating disaster too many I joked that “if another guy with dreadlocks wants to date me, the first thing he has to do is shave his head.”

Moving on, a few months go by and the girls were having a giggle… Elisabeth wanted to set me up on a blind date with a friend of hers.

“Teddy works in a salon,” she told me. “You can just drop by one day, and check him out first. He won’t know. He’s fed up going out with Ugandan girls who keep messing him around. He said he fancies going out with a Muzungu.”

We checked him out, surreptitiously. My friend gave him my phone number. He called me.

“I just wondered what you’re doing tomorrow? I’ll be in Kampala,” he said.

“Call me when you get to the taxi park. I’ll be at the saloon by the bus station,” he added.

downtown Kampala street

Lunchtime on a downtown Kampala street and the streets are fairly quiet

As I got off the boda boda downtown the next day, half a dozen men from different upcountry bus companies ran towards me and demanded to know where I was going: Lira, Gulu, Masaka, Soroti, where….?

“I’m going to the salooooon,” I answered. (A salon in English, in Uglish it’s a saloon.]

I’m an independent kind of girl so I didn’t call Teddy straightaway; I just thought I’d see whether I could find him first.

A couple of people helpfully offered to guide me to a saloon of their recommendation. He wasn’t in the first one.

Would I recognise him?

In the second salon, I saw a man having his head shaved. Were the dreadlocks coming off? Had he read my mind? Had he read ‘that blog’? Had Julia told him he would have to shave his head? The man’s head was bent forward, so I couldn’t see his face. All I could see were the last two inches of hair being removed by the razor.

The man lifted up his head. It wasn’t Teddy.

Two saloons later and I still hadn’t found him.

In the bustling street, a young man in an orange T-shirt tapped me on the shoulder. I was going to ignore him but he said my name out loud. He introduced himself as Teddy’s brother.

I followed him through the crowded streets into a crammed shopping arcade where we climbed up three flights of stairs. (How would I ever have found this saloon on my own?) And there was Teddy, sitting on the balcony, grinning at me. “I’ve been watching you from up here,” he said.

Guess what? He was having his dreadlocks redone!

Uganda dating. first date. Dreadlocks

A very Ugandan first date. At the hair salon

And you seriously call this a date?

We had some general chitchat and he offered me a soda. We sat and chatted while his brother worked on his hair.

On the salon veranda, overlooking the buses, we ordered lunch: beans, rice, cassava and matooke. He laughed when I said in Luganda “Silya enyama” (I don’t eat meat).

African buffet lunch Gardens Restaurant Fort Portal

A cooked Ugandan lunch comes in one size only: BIG!

The lady from the restaurant looked very impressed that the Muzungu was eating the big plate of “black African food” she’d brought into the saloon for us.

Teddy’s brother encouraged me to clear my plate. “No leftovers or they’ll charge us more,” he quipped.

“I love the UK so much! I love the Queen!” Said Teddy.

Was this supposed to impress me? “Why do you love the Queen?” Quizzed the Muzungu.

“I am a prince.” [Perplexed look on the Muzungu’s face….]

“I know a Prince,” I jumped in, looking for the logic. Was he trying to tell me he’s a monarchist? (I never did get to the bottom of that one).

He next explained that his dad and his sister live in the UK. He showed me a message from his dad saying that he should get a green card for the US. Why he showed me this, I don’t know. [And where did he think I was really from?]

Ugandan hair salon sign

“Trust me with u’r stayle” hair salon, near Mubende, Uganda

We talked a bit about music. “What music do you like? Elton John?” He enquired.

Oh pleeeease. Why do so many Ugandans live in this 1980s musical timewarp? It drives me nuts. (Yes Elton John is an amazing singer/ songwriter but forgive me Elton, your heyday was 30 years ago).

After lunch, Teddy explained that he had left his money at home – a pretty impressive move for a first date.

He said he wanted to buy us lunch, but “could I lend him 5,000 shillings?” [Approx $1.50 / £1.00]

I decided not to make a scene. Lending him money on our first date wasn’t what I had in mind. However, since it would cost me at least this much to eat lunch anywhere else in town, I handed over the 5,000 shillings. He said he would pay me back that afternoon. (Afterwards I asked myself: why didn’t he just ask his brother to pay for lunch?)

Time went by. We ran out of conversation. I looked up at the TV.

His brother noticed I was getting bored and asked me if I’d like to read a magazine, and produced some old copies of African Woman: dated 2006.

What am I doing here? I asked myself…

The average Ugandan seems to spend a lot of their life just sitting around. I can’t do it. This was a work day and I’d come into town – just to meet him. I asked Teddy what he was planning to do for the rest of the day. He said he would be another couple of hours and then he was going to look for 10,000 shillings from one place and 20,000 from another. I told him I had some work to do.

He said he would call me to see about meeting up later. (Could I be bothered… ?)

“My sister!”

To choruses of “my sister” and “jajja,” I worked my way down the street towards Owino market.

The strap of my sandal broke. “Those sandals must be Chinese!” Said a man sitting outside a shop. As I hobbled along, people looked down at the muzungu’s broken sandal, smiled and said “bambi” and “sorry” as the Muzungu limped on by.

A boda driver called out at me “I give you a lift!” A cloud of dust lifted in the air as he SMACKED the seat of his motorbike, in anticipation of the muzungu’s kabina.

Across the road, a man with a handful of T-shirts beckoned me.

“Here is the tailor,” he said.

cobbler shoes Owino market Kampala

The shy tailor – cobbler – was delighted for me to take his photo. Fixing my sandals outside Owino market, Kampala

Just outside the entrance to Owino, next to the open sewer, an old man sat hunched under a big umbrella fixing shoes in the dust. He gave me a wooden stool to sit on, a perfect vantage point for watching men on the opposite bank of the sewer playing dominoes and urinating against the wall.

Within minutes, my sandal was expertly fixed, for just 2,000 Uganda shillings (not the 20,000 shillings some chancer tried to rob me of another time!)

I went into town looking for love. Instead, I got a shy smile from the old cobbler.

Actually, I couldn’t have been happier.

cobbler shoes Owino market Kampala

Not the best view in Kampala but certainly the best shoe repair prices!

STOP PRESS: I hear that Teddy has lost the dreads. I did agree to see him a second time – but this time he bounced, his phone went off and I didn’t get a call or explanation for a whole week. Some people are so unserious!