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Out of my element: climbing Mount Elgon

Do you love a physical challenge? In this week’s Guest Post, Jean Byamugisha, CEO of the ‎Uganda Hotel Owners Association swaps her self-confessed boujee lifestyle for walking boots and a tent!

Sleeping in a tent up a mountain – for several days in a row – is not for the faint-hearted, especially when it is your first time camping! Add a rainstorm, heavy walking boots, difficult terrain (and no hot showers for two days) and you start to get a picture of how demanding a hike can be. Jean shares a personal account of the demanding climb of Mount Elgon in eastern Uganda, a hiking adventure that led her on a journey of many personal firsts. Congratulations on this huge endeavour Jean – and thanks for sharing your story!

Going beyond my comfort zone

On Good Friday 2021, Adolfo and I set off on what I deemed to be the craziest holiday I’ve ever taken – conquering the mighty Mount Elgon. I say it was crazy because it was so out of my element. My idea of a holiday is – and has always been – a 5 star hotel, with a 7×7 wide bed and 500 thread count Egyptian cotton bed sheets. A swimming pool and spa don’t hurt either. For all intents and purposes, I am a girl that loves a ‘boujee’ holiday.

Adolfo organised our hiking trip after I lost a bet. He wanted to get me out of my comfort zone and also take a ‘bite’ of his world. As an experienced mountain climber, who has even scaled – what looks impossible to me – Mount Rwenzori and all the Virunga volcanoes, he was very much looking forward to climbing Mount Elgon. For me, on the other hand, it was a different story.

Climbing with experienced climbers has both its advantages and disadvantages: my biggest fear was not being in shape and holding back the team so my first order of business was getting in shape. For the most part, I do some simple exercises and eat clean but to climb Mount Elgon, I had to up the ante; I had to go to the gym. I took on a personal trainer and worked out six days a week, from 5.30 – 8.30 am in preparation for our trip.

We arrived in eastern Uganda late and spent the eve of our hike at the Uganda Wildlife Authority banda accommodation in Kapchorwa on the edge of Mount Elgon National Park. Adolfo – or “Alfie” as I like to call him – had estimated that we could climb Mount Elgon in three days, spending two nights in the bush. However, after discussing the route options with the UWA guides, we were advised to spend an extra night at the top as the distance would be too tough for an inexperienced climber like myself. This, we agreed to. After making all the payments with UWA, we entered Mount Elgon National Park via Kapkwata Gate setting off a bit late (10 am). Our team of seven climbers were me (Jean Byamugisha), “Alfie” Adolfo, two UWA rangers, two porters and a cook.

“When I look at the videos of my Mount Elgon hike now, I can see my state of mind change: when I started the hike, I was full of beans; when I finally came down the mountain … I looked and felt so ratchet!!!”

Jean Byamugisha is all smiles as she sets off on day one of her Mount Elgon hike

Day 1 on Mount Elgon – a shock to the system! Overnight at Pichwa Camp

For a novice, the walk up was fair. Compared to all other routes, our route was by far the most gentle of them all. However, the hike was a shock to my system despite all the work I had done in the gym.

By the time we reached Pichwa Camp, an eight-hour walk later, I had sweated beyond what I ever thought possible. However, I was still strong and felt no aches.

After a quick meal and relaxation, I felt like ‘myself’ once again. I managed to take a hot bathe and eat a heavy dinner. Alfie and I even mastered the strength to walk around the camp and visit some local communities in the evening.

This was the first time I was sleeping in a tent. It was quite comfortable thanks to Adolfo’s advice; he had made sure I came equipped with the right gear. Previously, I had no idea about the different types of sleeping bag, mattresses and waterproof tents that would be invaluable in keeping me warm during the night.

Pichwa Camp was the last place with telephone network; after checking in with home and making sure all our loved ones were ok, we set our phones to airplane mode and braced ourselves for what was to be an excruciating day two.

Day 2 on Mount Elgon – higher and colder at Hunters Cave

We woke up at 6:30 am on day two. The cook and UWA staff had breakfast ready and we set off a few minutes before 8 o’clock since day two was going to be a much longer hike.

Day two was much harder on me than day one. The hike was longer, the climb steeper and the weather hotter. Although I had managed to keep up with the team on day one, by day two I was starting to fall a few minutes behind. The higher we went, the thinner the air got, making the climb more difficult with each step.

On the flip side, the vegetation changed at different altitudes and the views from the top of Mount Elgon were simply breath-taking. Being a small team, we had the whole mountain to ourselves; this made it even more special and – dare I say – romantic. Adolfo took on the difficult task of documenting the entire trip. For a girl who loves selfies and pictures, this was amazing (not so much for Adolfo who had to keep at it for the whole trip!)

Mount Elgon National Park hike. Jean Byamugisha.
Mount Elgon National Park hike. Jean Byamugisha.

“While the gym tests your fitness levels, the hike up a mountain tests your endurance levels and many times this is beyond anything the gym can prepare you for.”

Jean Byamugisha

Day two really knocked my body off balance. We arrived at our second stop, Hunters Cave, 12 hours after leaving Pichwa Camp. I was exhausted but – thanks again to the gym sessions – I didn’t have any aches or muscle pulls of any kind.

Hunters Cave was a completely different experience from Pichwa Camp. We were completely in the bush: no bathroom facility, no kitchen and no rooms. Worse yet, it was a much higher altitude and a lot colder than the previous nights. It felt like negative degrees centigrade at this point. For a ‘boujee’ girl like myself this was a complete nightmare. I had to use the bush for all private activities like taking a shower – and worse – going to the toilet. Most shockingly, I enjoyed this experience, mainly because Adolfo made it fun. Actually, without him, I’d never have dreamed of taking on such a challenge in the first place. He carried his favourite speaker and always played music in the camp which cheered everyone and made us forget about the tough hours we had spent walking up the mountain.

Jean Byamugisha. Mount Elgon hike Uganda
Jean Byamugisha. Mount Elgon hike Uganda

We had a lovely dinner of local chicken and rice at Hunters Cave; this was a very welcome delicacy at this point. Taking on such a humongous challenge requires a lot of energy which means that one needs to eat a lot of food. This was a struggle for me who is used to only eating one solid meal a day. Adolfo had articulated the importance of eating a lot on this trip but it’s not something I took seriously; I soon paid for my stubbornness.

Adolfo pitched our tent while I sat with the rest of the guys near the fire as they made dinner. The weather was extremely cold at this altitude and it rained a lot during the course of the night. Once again, it was agreed that we would leave the camp by 8 am as day three was going to be a longer day. I literally passed out when my head hit the sleeping bag. My body was beginning to show signs of fatigue and dehydration.

Day 3 on Mount Elgon – altitude sickness at Mudde Camp

We woke up again early on day three. I still had no aches at this point and felt fit enough to continue the climb, only wishing I had a few more hours of sleep. Waking up in the mornings is hard for me and ordinarily, I am a late riser. This was worsened by sleeping in the bush and being dead tired after walking over 12 hours each day.

“I started off our third day on Mount Elgon feeling like I was running on empty. I felt weak, fatigued and sleep deprived. This was the point at which I started wondering… what in the world made me crazy enough to take on a challenge like this?”

My pace fell several minutes behind the team and I felt extremely weak. I suffered from altitude sickness and at one point I felt like I was about to faint. Adolfo had warned me about not eating enough and this was the day his warning came to pass. The team organised a few breaks where we stopped to eat some pineapples for energy. Adolfo had also packed some high sugar sweets to give one energy in such instances. These helped but day three still felt like a bad dream.

Beyond the physical effort of climbing Mount Elgon, it was an incredible experience to take in Elgon’s beautiful caldera, which I came to know as the second largest caldera in the world. It was also amazing to see the stunning vegetation at this altitude; it looked like something out of an alien movie.

At the lunch stop, I managed to take in enough food to give me the energy needed to complete this leg of the hike. Day three was by far the toughest part of the Elgon hike up to this point. It was made worse by torrential rain which we had no choice but walk through to make sure we reached the next camp before nightfall.

The last night before we started our descent was by far the toughest of the entire hiking trip. Once again, I was lucky not to have any body or leg aches but at this point my body was beaten to a pulp with fatigue. Having almost fainted the day before, I was weak and completely worn out. I dreamt of taking a long hot shower and sleeping in a warm comfy bed. This was also one of the coldest nights of the trip. Despite all this however, I was excited that this was the last night on the mountain.

For the most part, climbing Mt Elgon was fun and – other than the fatigue of walking 12 hours a day – my body was strong.

Day 4 on Mount Elgon – my biggest fear becomes a reality

The last day of the hike was filled with so much hope and excitement. I was excited to finally be returning to civilisation but, most importantly, I was excited that I would count hiking Mount Elgon as one of my greatest achievements. This experience was definitely one for my books. However, I didn’t take into account what an overwhelming feat it was going to be to climb down the mountain. I was informed that it usually takes 8 hours to get to the bottom (and I thought maybe I would do it in 6 hours). This was not to be.

We set off after a sumptuous breakfast of the Uganda delicacy, rolex. I had learned my lesson from the previous day and started day four with a pretty heavy breakfast. It was a beautiful day, the sun was shining and Adolfo and I even signed our names on the camp door before we left. After taking the obligatory final picture with the rest of the team, off I went, literally hopping down the mountain.

The guides did warn me that climbing down Mount Elgon was in many cases more challenging than actually walking up but I didn’t believe them; it seemed a lot easier to start with, until my boots started hurting my toes. Mountain climbing boots are unlike any other kind of ladies shoes (especially high heels, my shoe of choice for most of my daily chores). Mountain boots are tougher and heavier, and can make your feet more sore when it rains. The weather on the mountain changes from hour to hour. Very soon, the warm bright sun gave way to a dark cloud that turned into heavy rain. This made the descent almost impossible and a lot slower than I had tuned my mind to tolerate. I fell hours behind the rest of the team, especially when my boots started squeezing my toes as I tried to prevent myself from falling in the mud.

My biggest fear became a reality: I was holding the team back. Adolfo would wait for me at different stops but it soon became clear that I needed to descend at my own pace because my legs could not carry me as fast as the rest of team. If I tried to keep up with them, I’d hurt myself even more. The worst was yet to come: due to the pressure of the constant downward incline, I hurt one of my knees. The pain was excruciating. My guide, Justin, sympathised with me and remained by my side the whole way down. Adolfo kept encouraging me; for him I made sure I powered through without complaining because I could see everyone doing their best to make it easy on me. It took almost 12 hours of a very slow, very painful slope to reach the team (who waited almost two hours for me to reach them at the rendez-vous spot).

Lessons learned from my first Ugandan hiking adventure

Jean Byamugisha. Mount Elgon mountain hike Uganda
Still smiling! Jean Byamugisha takes on Mount Elgon, eastern Uganda

Climbing Mount Elgon was by far one of the best and most exciting holidays of my life. It took me out of my comfort zone and made me realise I am a lot stronger than I ever gave myself credit for. Crazy as it felt, I’m sure I’d do it again… although not for at least the next 6 months!

“One of my biggest regrets is not making it to the peak of Wagagai. We were just four hours away from the summit but were advised that for safety reasons, we should start to descend since we had a 12-hour hike ahead of us. This was the right decision because it ended up being a very exhausting day.”

Tips for climbing Mount Elgon

Through my experience hiking Mount Elgon, I learned some lessons that I feel every new climber should consider before attempting such an activity:

1. Climb with someone you love and care about (better if they have experience hiking mountains). The only person I could ever have done this with is Alfie. Enough said on this one 😊

2. Get in shape before attempting to go hiking. The mountain tests every muscle in your body. Even if I had gone to the gym for almost a month to prepare, I was not ready for how hard it was at times. However, my muscles were very grateful for my weeks of training and it took just a couple of days after I got back to start wearing my beloved heels once again.

3. Invest in the right gear for the mountain. Hiking can be an expensive sport. The right gear is quite pricy but once you are on the mountain you realise that it was worth every penny. Most importantly, ask an experienced climber to guide on the right gear to buy before you make the investment. Alfie went shopping with me and his advice was invaluable.

4. Get the right snacks and food. Biggest lesson learned is that when you go hiking you cannot eat as you normally do. You need high energy foods to get the right calories to take you up – and down – the mountain. Every climber should invest wisely in the right snacks to ensure they successfully complete their climb. Pack enough water because you need more than you originally think while hiking.

5. Most of all, have fun! This is a once in a lifetime experience, not one that’s easy to forget. Choose to make the memories fun. I look back on the videos and pictures we took and they always bring a smile to my face.

The Muzungu adds: I hiked Mt Elgon once and I can feel Jean’s pain! Read my blog “Climbing Mount Elgon – with a girl named Kevin.”

If you enjoy reading inspirational stories by Uganda’s tourism heroines, read Lilly Ajarova’s account of “The euphoric Rwenzori Mountains.” 

Pant hoots and knuckle spins – Chimp tracking in Kibale Forest

The muzungu’s experience tracking chimpanzees in Uganda’s Kibale Forest and some tips for would-be trackers!

Chimps are the drama queens par excellence.

Most of my chimp encounters have been here at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest, where we frequently hear their pant hoots and the deep sound of buttress drumming that echoes through the forest. Chimps use this noise to communicate when they find food; it may also indicate the group is about to move. It doesn’t matter how often we hear the chimpanzees, it’s always exciting. We look at each other and ask “what are the chimps up to now?!”

I’ve been wanting to track the chimps for years. My primatologist friend Julia Lloyd led the team that habituated chimpanzees that tourists visit in Kibale Forest. How could I track without her?

However, after a year living tantalisingly close to the forest action, I couldn’t wait any longer: one birthday Cath, a one-time VSO volunteer like me, booked to see the chimps.

I’ve heard stories of multiple groups of tourists converging on the same group of chimpanzees. That’s not what I wanted. I wondered what my experience would be like?

NOTE: I went chimp tracking in Kibale Forest before the pandemic. Scroll down to the comments to read the Standard Operating Procedures that you will be expected to follow if you track chimpanzees or gorillas from now on.

Pant hoots and knuckle spins

“Welcome to Kibale National Park, a tropical rainforest, known as the primate capital of the world because of its high number of chimpanzees. Our afternoon of chimp tracking may take one or three hours.”

Before we embark on our forest adventure, our ranger guide Benson explains how we will be tracking the Kanyantale chimpanzee community who move through the forest in groups. “They are communities rather than tight-knit families like gorillas.” Ntale is the local Rutoro word for lion (not on Kibale’s species list, you may be relieved to hear!)

I’m super excited when I realise that there will be only two of us (plus Benson) for our afternoon tracking. We’ve lucked out!

As we enter Kibale Forest, we see evidence of elephants: broken trees lie across our path. Benson points to muddy streaks on tree trunks, where elephants have been rubbing their hulks to clean themselves – and marking their territory at the same time.

It’s a warm humid day. Our noses detect a fruity smell and Benson points out a chimp’s (night) nest above us. At our feet are half-eaten figs. Among the decaying leaves, roots and tree trunks lie cross farum, big fruits beloved by chimps (and inedible to us). 

It’s thrilling to be in the middle of the forest (rather than at its edge). I feel my lungs expand to take in every atom of forest air. It smells so good.

We walk uphill and down. Are the chimps watching us, high in the trees?

Fifteen minutes pass.

Benson tries to contact another ranger but his radio is off. We continue wandering through the forest, but there is no sign of the chimpanzees. They seem to have disappeared.

Are we going to see the chimpanzees? Perhaps today is not our day. I let the disappointment wash over me. I know I’ll have other chances and being in the forest is a delight all of its own, but what of Cath? For her sake, I hope today is our day.

We can’t see the chimps, nor can we hear them. Can Benson?

“Hello. Hello Musa? Hello?” Benson is on the phone. He sounds worried.

“I don’t know where he left the chimpanzees. I am tracking and I have failed.”

I stifle a giggle.

“They are almost at the boundary with Julia’s,” he tells us. “They are moving toward the community” (outside the National Park).

We walk off track, pushing through low-hanging branches and creepers. Our destination is a towering fig tree on the park boundary.

“They are starting to move seriously” and so are we! We are almost running now.

“Look at the knuckle print; it’s fresh!” And there in the soft mud is the perfect outline of a primate’s knuckle. This is what I have come to see.

“Do you hear them?” Benson quizzes us. “Let’s move now, quickly!”

“We are really tracking!” I say out loud.

We hear a noise and pause, assuming it will be chimpanzees. We listen more carefully and recognise it as the Western Nicator, a bird we know from Sunbird Hill on the other side of the elephant trench.

“It’s a big one. I can see it!”

Benson cranks up the excitement levels. “See – more knuckle prints!” We follow, alert. “We should see the chimpanzees any time.”

The knuckle prints stop.

“Look,” he says as he points to a knuckle spin on the muddy trail. “This is where he has turned around.”

We can clearly see where the animal has spun around. We retrace our steps.

“Chimpanzees don’t like wet ground or water.” (Luckily the muzungu has her gum boots on!)

We hear the screams of chimpanzees in the distance. We leave the track and walk across a small wooden plank into the sunlight.

I stumble. In our rush to see the chimpanzees, I fall down a hole that is hidden by leaves and vegetation.

“They are on the ground ahead!” says our guide.

The deep thud of buttress drumming resonates through the trees.

Ahead of me, Cath turns on her heels, wide-eyed and yells at me “THIS IS AMAZING!”

I’m breathless. I expect trees and I expect distance but somehow I have not factored in hills. We are climbing now. There is no path; in our haste, we trip over tree roots and branches. Benson is slightly anxious. He wants us to push on.

I glimpse black fur and a pink bottom. The chimpanzees are on the ground now, pacing steadily forward. We are moving through their territory now.

Piercing screams fill the air.

“WE ARE GOING TO MISS THEM!” Shouts our guide.

With my heart pounding, I pause to catch my breath. We are racing to cross the track before the chimpanzees disappear. I see one chimp ahead of us. We are very close to the park boundary and Julia’s land now.

To our left there is loud screaming. What a din!

Ahead of us two chimps walk on the ground.

“They are inviting the others for supper,” says our guide, now confident.

He points to the female chimpanzee in oestrus (ready to mate). She has a swollen and painful-looking pink bum.

“She is so attractive to males,” Benson adds. Well, clearly! Nine or ten noisy male chimps compete raucously for the three females who are in oestrus.

We crane our necks and look up through the canopy of the tall Ficus mucuso fig tree. Leaves and figs fall around us. Something lands in my eye. The air buzzes with fruit flies.

“See the baby?” We watch a mother chimp with a baby on her back.

Of the 120 chimpanzees in Kibale’s Kanyantale community, we see around 15 individuals.

[I tell you what, it’s difficult to photograph a moving black shadow when you’re straining to look upwards while kneeling in the undergrowth and being rained on by figs!]

“Look one of the chimpanzees is making a nest,” Benson says and points upwards. “Come quickly – before they climb.” (It’s easier to see and photograph the primates on the ground and lower branches). It’s about four in the afternoon.

I don’t seem to be able to walk fast enough right now! Gumboots are no match for the slippery forest floor.

“Tintina is looking for food, he is shy.”

Tintina is one of Kibale’s oldest chimpanzees. He’s 44 years old and “very musticular.” (This Uglish pronunciation always tickles me). He is calm “not like those other guys.” The forest is quiet now and we pause for a few minutes to absorb the moment.

Mzee Tabu! I congratulate myself on recognising Tabu, a well-known elder of the community.

Seconds later, the silence is broken. Screams come from every direction, above us and around us.

We crunch forest debris underfoot as we pick up the pace and stride onwards.

It’s now 4.30.

“But it’s time to go back now,” Benson tells us. “It’s going to get dark and this is the time for elephants.” Kibale Forest clearly still has more mysteries for us.

Chimpanzee Tracking Kibale Forest
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The muzungu’s chimp tracking tips

Chimpanzee tracking is a popular tourist activity, particularly here in Kibale where it’s the main draw for many visitors to Uganda. There’s no guarantee that you’ll see the chimpanzees yet there’s a 90% likelihood you will.

If you’re chimp tracking in Kibale Forest, you can track first thing in the morning or at 2 o’clock in the afternoon. Morning tracking can be easier because the rangers will know where the chimps have slept. Others recommend tracking in the afternoon as chimps are more likely to be down on the ground (so you are not going to strain your neck for an hour!) We tracked on a Saturday afternoon at the end of September.

What should I wear to track chimps?

  • The ideal footwear is ankle-high walking boots. There are plenty of holes, hidden tree trunks and tripping hazards galore. Protect those ankles. Trainers don’t give much grip. Gum boots protect your legs from nettles, thorns and ants (but I always feel dehydrated after wearing them for a few hours). Locals will say they like gum boots as they feel protected from snakes! (You are very unlikely to come across a snake when you are chimp tracking).
  • Tuck your socks in. This keeps various creatures out!
  • Carry a rain jacket. It can start raining anytime in the Kibale Forest. Clue: tropical rainforest!
  • Take – and remember to drink – plenty of water.

What else do we know about the chimpanzees of Kibale National Park?

Kibale is home to 1,450 chimpanzees, according to the last census.

Research and tourism concentrates on 500 chimpanzees living in five communities. Three of them are the research communities of Kanyawara, Ngogo and Sebitoli. Two of the chimpanzee communities are open for tourism. Kanyanchu is the base for tracking the Kanyantale group. Barega is where tourists can participate in chimp habituation.

Chimp tracking rules

  • Always pay heed to the Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers’ advice.
  • Keep a distance of ten metres at all times “but we have those stubborn ones that may come closer” says the ranger. (NOTE: because of high risks of primates catching COVID-19, the 10-metre rule is standard for both chimp and gorilla tracking now)
  • Remember we share virtually the same genes. This makes chimpanzees (and mountain gorillas) highly susceptible to our everyday diseases, including Coronavirus.
  • You should not enter any of Uganda’s great ape forests if you’re splattering and coughing. Be responsible and don’t track if you have a cold. (If you are ill, permits can be refunded, at the discretion of the authorities).
  • If you want to make use of ‘the bush toilet’, go off trail. The guide will tell you what to do and (take your TP back home with you).
  • Be as quiet as possible. Do not mimic the vocalisations of chimpanzees. (You don’t want to be responsible for what might happen next!)
  • Don’t use flash photography
  • You will have maximum one hour with the chimps. Get out from behind the camera 😊

A few facts about chimpanzees

  • Every night chimpanzees make a new nest “to confuse predators such as crowned eagles, leopards and snakes.”
  • The average lifespan of a wild chimpanzee is 55 years. They can live up to 65 years in captivity.
  • A chimpanzee’s diet is fairly diverse (rather like we humans). 40% of their diet is figs, of which there are 13 different types in the forest. 30% of their diet is fresh meat, 10% is wasps, bees and honey. 10% is dead wood and soil which they consume for the minerals. Dr. Jane Goodall – famous for her ground-breaking study of the chimpanzees of Gombe in Tanzania – was the first person to observe chimps eating other animals. She observed them hunt and eat small mammals such as monkeys and watched them use sticks to extract termites.
  • A female chimp will be in oestrus (ready to conceive) for 29 to 32 days every four years.

How much does it cost to track the chimpanzees in Kibale?

The cost to track chimpanzees in Kibale in 2022 is $200 per person. For this, you get to spend maximum one hour with the chimpanzees. You have to be 12 years or older to track chimpanzees in Kibale Forest (or anywhere else in Uganda). This age limit has been reduced from 15 years.

Click here to view the Uganda Wildlife Authority tariff (price list) from July 2022 for all National Parks and Wildlife Reserves.

How to book chimp tracking permits

You can book chimp tracking permits through Uganda Wildlife Authority, National Forestry Authority (Kalinzu, Bugoma, Budongo) or through a tour operator. Some hotels and lodges can also arrange your chimp tracking tours. Visit my Travel Directory to find a tour operator or hotel.

The euphoric Rwenzoris!

What heights will you reach in 2021? Last year Lilly Ajarova pushed herself to summit Margherita, the Rwenzoris’ highest peak. She shares her inspiring story here.

Reaching the peak Margherita gives you a feel of being on top of the world, everything feels below you, it’s euphoric.

Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board
Margherita Peak, Rwenzoris Uganda. Lilly Ajarova UTB, Golola Moses PHOTO UNDP, UTB
Margherita Peak, Rwenzori Mountains. Uganda. Lilly Ajarova, Moses Golola. PHOTO Derrick Ssenyonyi

In December 2020, a team of climbers embarked on an ascent of Margherita Peak, the highest point in the Rwenzori Mountains at 5,109 metres (16,762 ft). The group took a nine-day fact-finding hike to Margherita Peak with Rwenzori Trekking Services in partnership with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) Uganda. You can read more about the Take on the Pearl domestic tourism campaign in Uganda in new drive to market Mt Rwenzori by Titus Kakembo. Oh how I wish I had been with them!

Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.

Lilly Ajarova

Below, Lilly shares her personal account of climbing the Rwenzoris.

Lilly Ajarova. CEO. Uganda Tourism Board. Rwenzori Mountains. Uganda #VisitUganda
Boss lady Lilly Ajarova. CEO of Uganda Tourism Board showing us how it’s done! Rwenzori Mountains. Uganda. PHOTO Derrick Ssenyonyi

When 2020 started, we all had plans, but then the unexpected happened and for most, those plans were no more.

But in all this I had one plan that I didn’t give up on: I hoped and believed I would achieve it.

My plan was to hike Mount Rwenzori in 2020. It’s not easy to explain why this was important for me but most importantly it was about pushing myself to the limits, challenging myself to do something that I would look back and say “this was worth it.”

We kept planning for the hike and postponing it until we finally settled on a date. In December, I and a group of passionate hikers started the journey.

It wasn’t easy but there was a determination by everyone that kept us going. Each time I looked at the faces of other hikers, beyond the sweat I could see a story, a story so personal that I believe each will tell theirs. We were all out there – each with a story on why they were doing this, but we all had one goal: to reach the highest peak of the Rwenzoris – Margherita!

I have challenged myself to many things over the years but this one meant a lot more. We were in the Rwenzori mountains at a time when the tourism industry has been hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. In a way we were doing this hike to bring back hope to the tourism sector, to inspire others to also take upon such challenges.

There is this unexplainable feeling you get when you reach the highest peak: it’s a moment of triumph, just that this is a different kind of triumph.

You look back at the number of days it has taken you to get here, you remember the emotional and physical strain. You’re tired but not tired. For a moment you stay silent and let it all sink in because you still can’t believe that you managed to do this. Even with all the fatigue you still gather the strength to smile for a photo moment because some memories can’t just be described by words. And then silently you just say “I did it, we did it.”

I say “We did it” because no-one can claim this achievement alone; it’s a team effort. A lot of people sacrificed and put their time in to make sure this was a success, and I am so grateful to all that made this possible.

As we come close to what has been a year full of challenges and uncertainties, my hope is that as long as we wake up each day – alive – let’s challenge ourselves to do something great. It doesn’t have to be hiking Rwenzori but let it be something that puts your spirit and determination to the test.

Let it be something that when you look back, the feeling is satisfying for you.

That’s the experience hiking Rwenzori has given me. I now – more than ever – understand what one can achieve with courage and determination.

I wish that as we start 2021, we all have something we shall challenge ourselves to. I hope that we don’t stop dreaming and having big goals. Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.

The day I came back from the hike, one of my sons asked me “So, what next now that you have reached the highest peak of Rwenzori?”

I really didn’t have an answer, but I believe that as long as we are still alive there are other highest peaks in life that we should always challenge ourselves to reach.

Wishing you all a Happy New Year and may 2021 be the year which you climb to as many highest peaks in life as possible.


Lilly Ajarova, Uganda Tourism Board #VisitUganda #TakeOnThePearl #TulambuleUganda
Hiking Mount Rwenzori Uganda #VisitUganda PHOTO UNDP, UTB
Hiking Mount Rwenzori Uganda. December 2020. PHOTO Derrick Ssenyonyi
A few highlights of Lilly Ajarova’s team climb to Margherita Peak in Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains, courtesy of Uganda Tourism Board, UNDP and Rwenzori Trekking Services

About the Rwenzori Mountains

The 996 km2 Rwenzori Mountains National Park is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, a Ramsar site (for its “wetlands of international importance”) and an Important Bird Area. And you haven’t visited yet?

Uganda’s RMNP is located in the 120km-long and 65km-wide Rwenzori mountain range that forms the border boundary of western Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is the highest mountain range in Africa. Margherita on Mount Stanley in the Rwenzoris is Africa’s third highest peak, after the volcanic peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m).

More than 70 mammal and 217 bird species have been recorded in the Rwenzoris. The best place to see these is in the montane forests at lower altitudes. Famous stand-out species you might see are the vibrant Rwenzori Turaco and an assortment of colourful chameleons.

Three-horned Chameleon Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris
Three-horned Chameleon, Ruboni Camp in the foothills of the Rwenzoris
Rwenzori Turaco Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography
Rwenzori (or Ruwenzori) Turaco, as pictured in the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography. Click on the image to visit Mark’s Facebook page

Rwenzori mammals include the eastern chimpanzee, l’Hoest’s monkey, blue monkey, golden cat, African forest elephant, (the disturbingly loud nocturnal) southern tree hyrax, yellow-backed duiker and the endangered black-fronted duiker. Did you know that 19 of the Rwenzori’s bird species are Albertine Rift endemics (meaning they are only found in this corner the world)?

Have you seen Africa’s botanical big game?

Beyond the boggy moorlands, hikers cross valleys and waterfalls, rivers and lakes as they pass through evergreen forest, bamboo forest, colourful heather, and Afro-alpine zones. It is this unusual diversity of vegetation – much of it unique to the Rwenzoris – that makes the environment so memorable. The giant lobelia and groundsels at higher elevations have earned it the name “Africa’s botanical big game.” For most hikers, the fabulous scenery of the foothills is more than enough to stretch the limbs and inspire the soul. Hiking to one of the peaks is only for the fit and the well-prepared but determination is rewarded with spectacular views from seasonally snow-capped peaks and glaciers.

Rwenzori Mountains 'Ruwenzori' Uganda
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Lilly adds “Mt. Rwenzori is the third highest mountain in Africa, it is a mountain like no other. It presents a combination of a stimulating terrain, the rarest of vegetations, sights and sounds of magnificent waterfalls and the bluest of lakes, all climaxing in breath-taking glaciers and snow-capped peaks. Rwenzori Mountains National Park presents tourists with a more fulfilling and yet, crowd-free hiking experience that you will not find on many mountains across the world.” 

Have you visited the Rwenzoris? Or do you plan to hike Margherita or Weissmann’s Peak?

How to get around #Kampala (when you don’t have a helicopter)

How to travel around Kampala – Walk? Cycle? Boda boda? Drive? Taxis or special hire? Matatu? Bus or coach? Train? Helicopter?!

New expats frequently ask me where the best places are to live in Kampala and I always recommend trying to live the same side of town as you work. Scroll down and you’ll understand why. Kampala does not have a public transport system as such (it’s all privately owned) but there are many different ways of travelling to and around the city. Here’s the muzungu’s introduction to the different types of transport and a few personal recommendations.

If you’re a regular reader of my blog, you’ll know I’m always up for a new adventure so I’ve tried all the different methods of transport across Kampala.

⦁ Walking
⦁ Cycling
Boda boda motorbikes
⦁ Cars
⦁ Taxis and special hires
Matatus
⦁ Buses and coaches
⦁ Train
⦁ Helicopter!

Walking in Kampala

If you’re within walking distance of where you work, then lucky you! My organisation office was in the spare room of my home for my first few years in Uganda and I was saved the hassle of fighting through Kampala’s traffic. I had no idea how lucky I was!

wetlands below Bukasa Muyenga Kampala
You wouldn’t think this was in Kampala would you? Morning view across the wetlands below Bukasa, Muyenga Kampala. A morning walk is the perfect way to start my day

Walking my dogs through the back roads of Bukasa and Muyenga were some of my happiest times in Uganda. Here’s a favourite walk of ours. Once you’re in town however, walking is an altogether different matter.

streets closed for Kampala City Festival
Pavements along Kampala Road are good. Very occasionally the streets are closed to vehicles (this was during the Kampala City Festival)

It’s only in the centre of town and around the central business district (CBD) that you will find decent pavements. In other parts of town, pavements may suddenly end without warning (if they exist). Drainage covers may be there today and gone tomorrow so always tread carefully. If you have kids, forget bringing the buggy to Kampala. You won’t be able to push it very far.

Cycling in Kampala

I know very few expats who dare to cycle on Kampala’s crazy streets. I used to cycle when I lived in London but here we have little awareness of cyclists or their safety. You wouldn’t find me cycling around Kampala unless it is down by Lake Victoria or on the quiet hills of Kololo or Nakasero. Save your biking for weekends in Lake Mburo or Fort Portal. (Did you know there is an annual mountain bike tour in Karamoja?)

Boda boda motorbikes

These are undoubtedly the quickest way of getting from A to B and the city couldn’t function without them. Boda boda drivers are our best friends, our Mr Fix It, frequently our saviours – just choose with discretion. They can be a real menace too. Read my blog How to ride a boda boda.

rush hour boda bodas Jinja Road Kampala
Rush hour boda bodas Jinja Road Kampala

If you take a boda boda, do yourself a favour and wear a helmet. Don’t just accept a lift from random guys driving past either. Get to know riders from your local boda boda stage or download one of the ‘ride hailing apps’ such as SafeBoda or Uber app in Kampala. Their boda riders are registered and (Usually but not always) bring you a high quality helmet to wear.

Driving a car in Kampala

Lots of people prefer the comfort and privacy of having their own cars. I bought my car from expat friends and enjoyed the independence of it for many years. What I didn’t enjoy were the many hours sweating in traffic jams at Jinja Road. Neither did I appreciate being pulled over by the traffic police for some minor offence they had just cooked up when they spotted a loan muzungu. (They pick on Ugandans too, I know!)

The weirdest occasion was one Christmas Eve when I was driving through the industrial area. The traffic policeman ahead of me motioned me to pull over. “What have I done?” I asked him innocently. He walked around the car.

“I’m pulling you over for having a faulty rear brake light” he said.

“How could you see that when you were standing in front of me?” I asked him.

“For us, we have special powers” came the reply.

Driving in Kampala – not for the nervous is a popular post by a former expat.

Taxis and special hires

This is where it gets confusing!

Private cars are called ‘specials’ or special hires.

When a British person like me thinks of a taxi, this is what I see:

Black London taxi cab. Jimmy Barrett [CC BY-SA 2.0 (https://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-sa/2.0)], via Wikimedia Commons
Black London taxi cab

Matatus

In Kampala however, ask for a taxi (pronounced taxiiiiiii) and someone will point you to a matatu or minibus. The crowded old taxi park in downtown Kampala is an experience in itself! It can be pretty intense.

Old taxi Park Kampala Diary of a Muzungu
Diary of a Muzungu (plus new mattress!) squeezes into a matatu in the Old Taxi Park Kampala

The 12 seater minibus taxis (generally white with turquoise ‘go faster’ stripes) are the cheapest way to get around but the routes can be annoying as you have to go into the centre of town to get out to the other side. People often walk a bit, take a matatu and then take the second one or jump on a boda boda for the last part of their journey.

Matatus are very cheap. There are no price lists, no receipts and no timetable. They have set prices but the conductor (who sits by the sliding door and takes your money) will frequently try and overcharge you if you’re a muzungu. It is inevitable but you will quickly get to know what’s a fair price. Most routes charge 1,000 shillings (equivalent to 20 British pence or 30 US cents). If you’re not sure how much to pay, fellow passengers will usually help you out (and scold the conductor at the same time!) Travel with loose change or small notes if you’re using a taxiiiiiii in Kampala.

Matatus are good if you are on a tight budget, have a good book to read and can go to work very early (or arrive home very late). Play with your expensive phone at your peril. Thieves are known to put their hand through taxi windows and snatch phones when you’re stuck in traffic.

Jeremy Clarkson downtown Kampala. Top Gear
British TV presenter Jeremy Clarkson and the Top Gear team drove through Kampala. Here they were looking for a way to get out of the old taxi park!

The downside with matatus is that they frequently get stuck in traffic, especially around the taxi park and Clock Tower roundabout. It’s not uncommon to sit for one or two hours without moving. Their drivers are often aggressive. Also, you have to be careful of your belongings on these crowded minibuses as there are lots of cunning pickpockets. One friend was relieved of her laptop in a matatu. She had no idea she was being robbed until she got out of the taxi and opened her bag to see her laptop had been replaced by bricks!

If you are using a taxi upcountry, expect to fit a lot more than 12 people in!

matatus Nairobi streets
Nairobi’s matatus – famous for their graffiti decor and pumping sound systems – are bigger than Uganda’s vehicle of the same name

Note: Uganda’s matatus are twelve-seater minibuses, slightly different from Nairobi’s matatus which are buses, coaches or ‘coasters’ (slightly smaller than a bus).

Buses and coaches

Within Kampala city, Pioneer are the only bus company that I know of. Their buses are new, well-maintained with fixed routes, fixed prices and even tickets! Oh how I wish the city had more of these.

Link bus coach station Kampala Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu
I used to take the Link bus between Kampala to Fort Portal and posted this photo a few years ago.
MAY 2022 I saw this same photo of me circulating on WhatsApp after a fatal bus crash. This driver was at the wheel and perished 😪😪😪 so did many others

If you want to travel outside Kampala, upcountry or across one of Uganda’s borders, buses are safer than matatus, which have a particularly poor safety record. Bus companies I have used regularly are Mash, Link and Jaguar Executive Coaches. Other people also recommend Oxygen, Coast and Modern Coaches. After the latest crash I am not recommending any of them! (But the reality is we don’t always have a choice).

Train

If you are lucky enough to live in Kireka or Namanve, you can even get the train into town! The downside is that the service is infrequent although it does have a daily timetable and it’s very cheap. Click on the image to read more about Kampala’s commuter train service.

Rift Valley Railways Kampala train view towards Kireka
Rift Valley Railways Kampala passenger train – early morning view from the train window

I simply love trains. Read about my train travels across East Africa:

Helicopter

I once crossed Jinja Road by helicopter!

helicopter flight Murchison Falls
Helicopter pilot David Guy (flying over Murchison Falls in this photo)

When I was a volunteer, I got to know the pilot of the helicopter stationed at International Hospital Muyenga. I begged him for a ride (not thinking there was any likelihood of it).

One morning he called me. “Can you get to the hospital in fifteen minutes? I have to transfer the helicopter to the grounds of the Serena Hotel to pick up a private client. You can hop in if you want to?”

God I was excited – but no sooner had the helicopter lifted off the ground than we were landing again… and that sums up my travel experiences in helicopter!

What’s the muzungu’s preferred way of travelling around Kampala?

These days I’m a regular user of one of the ride hailing apps. I use them regularly when I’m in Kampala – but the cars all cost more than they used to.

Diary of a Muzungu. Uber driver downtown Kampala
I love talking to Uber drivers – everyone has a story

Although Uber and Bolt aren’t Kampala’s only ride hailing app, they do offer the most flexibility and for tourists and new expats, they are recognised brands that you may already have on your phone. The system works exactly the same way as it does ‘back home’ but cash is always preferred by drivers. Few of them accept credit cards. Very few shops in Uganda accept credit cards – we just aren’t there yet.

view from my Uber. Kampala
View from my mobile office in Kampala! My work day starts once I’m in Uber

What’s great about Uber’s service in Kampala is that they have both cars and boda bodas. However, SafeBoda has 100s of bodas now and Uber doesn’t.

What are your tips for travelling around Kampala? If you’re coming to live in Uganda for the first time, read Uganda for beginners – an introduction for new expats.

If you’ve enjoyed this blog, feel free to share it and sign up to my occasional newsletter.

Rwenzori Mountains National Park

Rwenzori Mountains National Park – a snowball fight on the Equator?

How to hike the Rwenzori Mountains. trekking ruwenzori, Uganda

The Rwenzoris lie on Uganda’s western border and are shared with the DRC. In 150 AD the philosopher Ptolemy named the ‘Mountains of the Moon’ as the Source of the Nile

Rwenzori Mountains National Park is recognised by UNESCO as a World Heritage Site. According to the Uganda Wildlife Authority, “Rwenzori Mountains National Park comprises the main part of the Rwenzori mountain chain, which includes Africa’s third highest peak [Margherita Peak] at 5,109 metres above sea level. The combination of spectacular snow-capped peaks, glaciers, V-shaped valleys, fast flowing rivers with magnificent waterfalls, clear blue lakes and unique flora contributes to the area’s exceptional natural beauty. The Rwenzori mountains support the richest montane flora in Africa, encompassing the charismatic giant lobelias, groundsels, and giant heathers which have been called “Africa’s botanical big game”. 

In AD150, the geographer Ptolemy from Alexandria labelled Mt. Rwenzori “the Mountains of the Moon.” Explorers spent centuries trying to verify the Source of the Nile. (The Rwenzoris are one of the Nile’s many sources). If you are interested in geography and history, I highly recommend reading Andrew Roberts’ 2021 rewrite of his Uganda’s Rift Valley (review to be published on Diary of a Muzungu soon). One of his many sources is the book Rwenzori Mountains National Park, published in 1998 by Makerere University.

In 1888, the explorer Henry Stanley called the Rwenzori by its local name ‘Ruwenzori’, meaning ‘rainmaker’ or ‘cloud king.’ For centuries, local people were terrified of the cloud king and wouldn’t venture up into the interior of the mountain range. The appeal of jobs as tourism porters (and the ready cash that brings) has changed that, superficially at least.

Rwenzoris boardwalk view

Sunny weather can’t be guaranteed! To hike the summits, it’s recommended you climb during the dry seasons. It rains frequently in the Rwenzoris

On a clear day, the Rwenzori Mountains – the fabled ‘Mountains of the Moon’ – provide a jaw-dropping backdrop to the hills of Fort Portal. Often the Rwenzoris are simply an area we pass through on our journey between Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls but if you want tranquility, clean air and peace, this is the place to visit. Paddling in the cool, clear waters of the Rwenzori’s streams and rivers is magical. The mountain has over fifty lakes!

Three-horned Chameleon Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

Three-horned Chameleon, Ruboni Community Camp, Rwenzoris

There are dozens of walks you can do in the foothills of the Rwenzori’s without attempting to scramble to one of the peaks. Half or full day walks, camping, birdwatching, a community coffee tour, hot springs, mountain biking and treks to see waterfalls (and to find the chameleons!) are just a few activities you can do.

Rwenzori Turaco, Rwenzori Mountains, Uganda. Mark Dudley Photography

Rwenzori (or Ruwenzori) Turaco, as pictured in the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography. Click on the image to visit his Facebook page

I was invited to climb Margherita Peak with the same friends I climbed Mount Elgon with. A good level of fitness is required to climb Margherita Peak (and my knee injury prevented me going in the end). It’s very cold up in the mountains at night; during rainy season the boggy terrain can be hard going and exhausting. Global warming has substantially melted the glaciers, opening up crevasses, making the last day’s ascent a technical climb requiring the right equipment.

If you’re interested in climbing the Rwenzori Mountains, read the popular guest post How to climb Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains – trekking Margherita Peak.

Boardwalk. Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

Boardwalk at Ruboni Community Camp, Rwenzori Mountains

At Ruboni Community Camp, the accommodation is basic but the food is good. We were entranced by the early morning mist rising above the lower peaks of the Rwenzori’s. It looked as if the mountain was actually creating the clouds – is that possible?


Mount Elgon National Park

Mount Elgon National Park – need some head space? Go climb Wagagai!

Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda

Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda. PHOTO Nicola Swann

Mount Elgon National Park straddles Uganda’s eastern border with Kenya. One Mount Elgon National Park is in Uganda; Kenya has a (separately managed) Mount Elgon National Park on the eastern side of the same caldera.

On our five-day hike to the summit of Wagagai, we only encountered two other groups of hikers. Climbing Mount Elgon’s Wagagai Peak felt like a real wilderness experience to us.
Often hot during the day, it could be very cold at night, especially after the rains. We trekked in May and we camped (well, everyone camps!)

porters Mount Elgon cave

Kevin – one of our UWA guides – made tea for the porters as we took shelter in a cave on day one of climbing Mount Elgon

Our (obligatory) Uganda Wildlife Authority Ranger guides were fantastic. The porters said very few words to their bazungu clients. God they were tough: they carried our packs all day long, some of them walked barefoot, and huddled around the campfire, sleeping together in a big heap every night.

At 4,321 metres, Mount Elgon is the fourth highest mountain in East Africa. It is the eighth highest peak in Africa. It is the second largest volcanic base in the world. Elgon offers great hiking and trekking, huge caves to explore and a diversity of funky montane flora.

boys collecting firewood on Mount Elgon

Local boys collecting firewood on Mount Elgon. They raced up and down the hillside as we walked – and slid – tentatively downwards. PHOTO Nicola Swann

Climbing Mount Elgon is one of my favourite Uganda travel experiences. The sore knee and blisters are long forgotten, and I’m ready to scale the summit again. You’re unlikely to see much wildlife while you’re climbing Mt. Elgon, but there is abundant birdlife. In 2013, the Uganda Wildlife Authority team won the annual Big Birding Day event by notching up a record sighting of 400 species in one 24 hour period.

Hiking Mount Elgon is worth it for the scenery alone. We passed through seven different types of vegetation, many I’d never seen before.

Bagisu children Mount Elgon

The largest tribe around Mount Elgon are the Bagisu

Generally, people overnight at Sipi Falls before climbing Mount Elgon. Indeed, the magnificent 100 metre high Sipi Falls are an adventure in themselves. There are three waterfalls in all. Here you can go mountain biking, hiking, abseiling, rock-climbing and fly fishing.

Need some headspace? Go climb Wagagai! Mount Elgon


#RwenzoriDiary week 6 – Kilembe revisited

Welcome to week 6 of my #RwenzoriDiary. The series started here 

A few weeks ago, we embarked on a fascinating tour of the Rwenzori region to research the tourism potential of Kasese, Kabarole, Ntoroko and Bundibugyo, the districts surrounding the Rwenzori mountain range. It was an eye-opening trip that has really whet my appetite for exploring the region further.

One morning we drove to the start of the Kilembe Route, one of the main routes to Margherita Peak. This trail is managed by Rwenzori Trekking Services. The last few kilometres of road are difficult and need tarmacing. The views are fabulous!

Kilembe, Kasese, Rwenzoris, Uganda. PHOTO Albert Ntambiko
Kilembe, Kasese, Rwenzoris, Uganda. PHOTO Albert Ntambiko

Our visit to Kilembe, in the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains near Kasese, showed some of the devastation the area suffered during the flash flood of 2014, in which people, bridges and houses were suddenly – and without warning – washed away.

Four people died but hundreds were injured and many lost their homes. It was not only water that gushed down the steep valley but huge boulders and rocks that wreaked serious damage. Houses were simply swept away in the path of the burst of water. Many community buildings were also damaged or destroyed, meaning that everyone in the area suffered.

Four years after the catastrophic flood, the evidence of destruction is still visible. In this short video clip, we walked over one of the new bridges across the River Nyamambwa.

Thumbnail photo credit Albert Ntambiko.

Kilembe is most famous for being the location of Kilembe Mine, currently closed. However, former mine workers continue to live in this small mining town. It’s a strange place, a mixture of dilapidated colonial-type prefabricated constructions and local houses. The area is littered with boulders, which you quickly come to realise must have thundered down the mountain at deadly speed.

Kilembe, four years after the flood

We were accompanied on our trip by James from World Wildlife Fund Uganda. He explained that the flood had probably occurred due to a combination of factors. In the lead-up to the disaster, there had been two weeks without rain (at a time of year when it normally rains every day). The area of giant Lobelia had dried out and had been burned completely. When the rains finally came, there was no vegetation left to hold the rocks together. Both the absence of rain and the fire can be seen as indicators of global warming. As for what or who started the fire, that is unknown, but natural fires are not uncommon.

You can read the technical explanations about the Kilembe flood here on the New Vision website.

A similar disaster happened in 1966.

Such incidents are thankfully very rare, however, our visit to Kilembe reminded me how vulnerable people who live in the mountains are to climate change. We saw a lot of poverty. There are few jobs and the hilly rocky terrain must be difficult to farm. This in some part explains why people feel they have no option but to enter Rwenzori Mountains National Park and poach bushmeat or cut firewood.

The purpose of our trip was to think how we can support conservation by creating job opportunities for local people. Did you know that tourism employs one in 11 people globally? Whether a porter, working in a lodge, selling vegetables or driving a boda boda, tourism offers money-earning opportunities for a cross-section of people. When they are less reliant on the land – and the protected areas in particular – conservation benefits.

Follow the #RwenzoriDiary hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 5 – A steamy adventure. Sempaya Springs, Semliki

Welcome to week 5 of my #RwenzoriDiary. The series started here 

I’m now back in Kampala and getting stuck into the marketing strategy for the Rwenzoris region.

UWA RMNP GMP 2016
This week’s reading homework!

I’m totally smitten by this fabulous and diverse part of Uganda: GIANT ‘larger than life’ plants that are fit for a filmset, my friend the Three-horned Chameleon, rivers, snow-capped peaks, glaciers, crater lakes, hot springs, unique birdlife – that you can find nowhere else in Uganda, fifty mountain lakes … the Rwenzoris has so much to discover, and that’s just the natural environment. I haven’t even touched on the region’s unique cultures and foodstuffs you only find here. Keep reading my #RwenzoriDiary.

A highlight of our trip to the Rwenzori region – of Bundibugyo, Fort Portal, Kabarole and Kasese Districts – was a visit to the Female and Male Springs at Sempaya. Semliki is a short and dramatically scenic drive to the north of Fort Portal on an excellent tarmac road. It couldn’t be easier to find.

Here’s a summary of the video transcript. We are at the Female Spring at Sempaya.

“I can smell the sulphur!” Say I.

“This spring is between 96 and 98 degrees, but not everywhere. For example, this is not as hot and the other one where we normally boil eggs.” Muhindo Leslie was our very knowledgeable UWA guide.

“Many years ago, water (from the Female Spring) used to go up to three metres in the air.

The water has lots of dissolved salts. These build up in the channels and block them. In time, that one may close, but maybe through those cracks, another one will develop. The Female Spring used to push water up three metres, as recently as 1994.”

Watch the video closely and you may spot the intrepid Andrew Roberts, searching for a photo opportunity! Look again and you may see this ka muzungu waving at you!

You can also visit the Male Spring at Sempaya. The walk between Sempaya’s two springs takes half an hour or so and takes you through Uganda (and East Africa’s) only semi-deciduous forest. It is a fragment of the DRC’s Ituri Forest. The screech of baboons fills the air as we walked through Ironwood trees and palms. It was like no other forest I’ve visited: familiar yet tropical, clammy, with more than a few insects!

Hover over the photos below to read the captions. First is the Female Spring, then the Male Spring at Sempaya, Semliki National Park.

It’s taken me an unbelievable eight years to reach Semliki.

UWA’s Patrick Tushabe screamed with surprise when I told him that! (And invited me back for a proper visit too).

Andrew Roberts, Patrick Tushabe, UWA Semliki

Why did it make me so long to visit Semliki? Back in 2009, my VSO friend Dr Richard Feinmann invited me to Semliki. I had travelled so much that year – work safari field trips to Queen Elizabeth with the Uganda Conservation Foundation, climbing Mount Elgon with volunteer friends, a rainy bank holiday weekend in Lake Bunyonyi – that I was worried I would quickly ‘do’ Uganda and run out of places to visit. I decided not to go on the Semliki trip, just so I could have at least one new place left to visit…! How wrong I was to think like that.

Do you know Uganda keeps getting bigger? How so? Perhaps it’s because it’s developing (new lodges, more activities, better roads); or perhaps it’s because I travel for more reasons than I did before. Where once I looked for wildlife encounters and physical challenges, now I’m passionate about community tourism and food culture too. And don’t think I have finally visited Semliki because it was the last remaining place to visit! Oh no, far from it.

Follow the #RwenzoriDiary hashtag on Twitter, Instagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 4 – high above Mt Kilimanjaro!

Welcome to week 4 of my #RwenzoriDiary

The series started here …

Let’s get the bad news out of the way: it’s not been a good week …. two weeks even… for training. Oh no. I was highly motivated for my Rwenzori trekking training until I was invited on a media trip to Tanzania. Bang! Self-discipline flew out of the window when I was offered mimosa (sparkling wine) for breakfast (second breakfast of the day I might add!) The seafood was too scrumptious to ignore and buffet is always my downfall. I have a whole book full of stories to tell you about our whistlestop tour of the Serena Hotels fantastic luxury properties in Tanzania, but first let me tell you about our flight from Entebbe aboard Precision Air’s inaugural flight to Dar es Salaam.

As you might remember from week one of my #RwenzoriDiary, I’m sharing two things: my training to climb one of the Rwenzori’s peaks and travel suggestions for the Rwenzoris. I’m part of the team tasked with rebranding and marketing the Rwenzoris – and wow, is there a lot I have to tell you about! Frankly, I’m pretty obsessed with mountains right now! It was therefore very exciting to fly past Mount Kilimanjaro last week. Here’s a peak out of my window…

In this short video clip, two points of mount Kilimanjaro are visible through the cloud: Uhuru Peak, 5895 metres and Mawenzi, 5149 metres. Kili comes up so often in our conversations about mountaineering and climbing tourism in East Africa. Kilimanjaro has over 50,000 climbers every year. Read the story of my friend Apollo’s Kilimanjaro trek.

Can the Rwenzoris beat that one day? Currently, of the 4,000 visitors to the Rwenzori Mountains National Park every year, just a few hundred climb to the highest point Margherita Peak. However, as my last few weeks research has revealed, climbing the Margherita is one small element of what this magnificent park has to offer.

rwenzori trekking giant Lobelia

Isn’t this scenery incredible? You don’t have to spend a week climbing the peaks of the Rwenzoris to see these giant Lobelia and other Botanical Big Game plants for yourself. Are you coming with me? 🙂

It was quite a tease for our Precision Air flight from Entebbe to Dar es Salaam to touch down on the tarmac at Kilimanjaro without me having a chance to spend a few days there getting to know the mountain and its tourists.

aerial views Kilimanjaro. Precision Air

The recently relaunched Precision Air flight from Entebbe to Dar es Salaam stops briefly at Kilimanjaro International Airport. Pictured with me are aviation and tourism expert Professor Wolfgang, and travel journalists Solomon Oleny and Edgar Batte

One of the undoubted highlights of our trip to Tanzania was the aerial views of Mt Kilimanjaro mountain. Here’s my first view of it, taken a few years ago and forever etched in my mind.

aerial views Kilimanjaro

Aerial view of Kilimanjaro. Day breaks over Mount Kilimanjaro, Tanzania

At moments like these I have to pinch myself…I’m living the dream, aren’t I?

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 3 – don’t miss July’s Rwenzori Tourism Expo!

Welcome to week three of my #RwenzoriDiary. The series started here …

I’ve just received the most exciting hiking training opportunity: a gorilla tracking permit!

Kwita Izina gorillas Rwanda

Kwita Izina is an annual celebration of Rwanda’s success in conserving the growing mountain gorilla population. Local children come to watch the fun and listen to their favourite bands!

The Rwanda Development Board have invited me to be part of the week-long media trip to celebrate the Kwita Izina ‘gorilla naming ceremony’. Gorilla tracking is one element of the trip! This will be first week of September, so the timing could not be better for my plan to get fit and climb one of the Rwenzoris’ peaks. A good long hike uphill is perfect training for the Rwenzoris (better than running, apparently). Last week I had my longest run in a few months. God I felt GOOD! My Hasher friend Daniel was very interested to hear all about the Rwenzoris rebranding project, and my plan to climb the mountain range. “Aren’t you ready to climb already?” He asked me, as we ran together. That came as a great boost to my confidence (although we were running downhill and on the flat at the time, not quite the same as hiking up steep rocky paths and slippery slopes!) Only once I have (re)mastered the art of running a few hills will I feel prepared. My week started with a meeting with Bismac Amumpaire, the TV presenter and journalist behind the Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in Rwenzori Region, the Rwenzori Tourism Expo and the Miss Tourism Rwenzori Region (amongst many other projects!) These three projects are all based in Kasese, one of the towns at the foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains. Tourists frequently drive through Kasese en route between Queen Elizabeth National Park, Fort Portal and Kibale Forest National Park.

Bismac Amumpaire, Rwenzori Tourism Expo Coordinator. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Bismac Amumpaire, Rwenzori Tourism Expo Coordinator. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

The Rwenzori Tourism Expo 2017 will be held from the 13 to 15th July at Rwenzori Square in Kasese. The expo will climax with the second edition of the crowning of Miss Tourism Rwenzori Region 2017/2018 at Uhuru Gardens in the town. Check out the poster for more info. (Last-minute booking of stalls still possible at the time of writing).

Rwenzori Tourism Expo poster 2017

Rwenzori Tourism Expo poster 2017

The Rwenzori region is one of Uganda’s tourism hubs. The region is home to various tribal groups each with a rich history and a unique culture. According to the organisers of the Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region, the walk saw a diversity of people walk together for the first time: the Bakonjo, Bamba, Batwa, Batuku, Banyabindi, visitors, the Police, DPC and RDC of Kasese, hoteliers, tour operators, Uganda Wildlife Authority, World Wildlife Fund Uganda, Rwenzori Mountaineering Services, Kasese Peace Coalition, Hotel Margherita, Sandton Hotel, Link Bus Services, Miss Tourism Uganda, politicians and government. It was certainly very colourful!

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region, Kasese. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

The theme of the walk was Sustainable Peace for Tourism. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

Walk for Peace and Reconciliation in the Rwenzori Region. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

The 2016 Miss Tourism Rwenzori winner and runners-up. Photo L-Joe Experience Lyadda Joseph Joe

I wish Bismac and his team the best of luck! I was a bit sceptical initially about how a walk and a beauty pageant can help build peace but I get it now. Events like these bring the community together in a very positive way. Bismac’s drive is tangible and I’m sure this event will become a landmark event for the region. #PeaceAndTourismAreInseparable #SustainablePeace4Tourism

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 2 – Kasese pork joints & grazing at the Sheraton

Tips for hiking the Rwenzoris

I’ve received a few comments about the first entry in my #RwenzoriDiary, including “you go, I’ll meet you back at the bottom!” Irena has been giving me tips on how to avoid blisters. (Hell, had completely forgotten to factor those into the equation). There were more sobering thoughts from my friend Harriet: she said that when she climbed the Rwenzoris, they almost had to bring her down in a stretcher after two days! (I need to find out why). Jesus, another Hasher friend (pictured in last week’s #RwenzoriDiary) warns me against frostbite… but he is interested in climbing with me. Yay! (I’ll have to ask him to keep me warm then! lol). On our field trip, I read a great account of the German Ambassador’s climb to Margherita Peak. I think I’d like to meet him and find out more about his preparations.

Ambassador Schmidt of Germany Margherita Peak Rwenzori Mountains

What was going through your mind knowing you’re standing on the highest point in Uganda? “First, I was struck by how diverse Uganda is and that the majority of Ugandans have never been let alone know about the Rwenzoris. I also reflected on the serenity and the fact that you get to experience such adventure alone without many tourists crowding the place” Ambassador Schmidt

One of my main sources of information for my Rwenzori attempt is Andrew Roberts, a key member of our project team. Andy is best known for being the co-editor of Bradt Uganda, the definitive travel guidebook for tourists, and creator of Uganda’s most popular tourist maps.

Andrew Roberts. White House Hotel Kasese

“Here’s one I made earlier” Andy and his map of the Rwenzoris region on display at the White House Hotel in Kasese.

Andy is an expert on the Rwenzori region (and everywhere else in Uganda!) He is a mine of information, with a fact, observation, map and guidebook ready for every question we asked of him. If you’re reading this blog, you absolutely have to get a copy of the Bradt Guide. I continue to learn so much from this book (updated and republished every three years).

Click on the Golden Monkey to buy the Bradt Uganda Guide on Amazon

Click on the Golden Monkey to buy the Bradt Uganda Guide on Amazon

Our team spent the first night of our trip at the White House Hotel in Kasese. Incredibly good value. For just 40,000 Ugandan shillings (just over $10 USD), I had a spotlessly clean ensuite double room. This included breakfast: the regular omelette, sliced white bread and Blue Band option. I begged for some fruit and they rummaged around in the fridge to produce some watermelon! I like the White House Hotel. It brings back happy memories of Safari field trips with the Uganda Conservation Foundation.

safari field trip. UCF. Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area

A very serious muzungu on a safari field trip with UCF. Here we were working with UWA rangers to identify the new location of a ranger post in Queen Elizabeth Conservation Area, north of Lake George

“Kasese is ever hot.” Kasese is always hot. This occasion was no exception. There were few people staying at the hotel this time (although it’s frequently full of expat and NGO workers) so Andy and I stumbled through the darkness to a local pork joint. The service was laughably bad. There were two items on the menu and the waitress couldn’t remember either of them. (Interested to see what write-up that gets in the next edition of the Bradt Guide!) However, one place I would definitely recommend in Kasese is the Olimaco cafe. Luckily for our team-mate Albert, the brains behind the excellent Coffee at Last cafe in Makindye, they serve a great cappuccino and service was quick. Albert is our project graphic designer and branding expert.

Rwenzori Mountains foothills scenery

It’s easy to just drive through dusty Kasese without appreciating the fantastic mountains in the distance, but just drive 15 minutes off the main road and you will be amazed at the beautiful mountain scenery

Lake Bujuku boardwalk. Rwenzori Mountains National Park. UWA

Lake Bujuku boardwalk. Rwenzori Mountains National Park. I want to do this! Photo UWA

As for the training element of this #RwenzoriDiary, I confess, I didn’t make it to my 6 o’clock exercise class. I didn’t want to stand out in the middle of the road, in the darkness, at 5.30 in the morning hailing a random boda boda. Next time I need to pre-schedule an Uber cab. A good start today though. Actually ventured inside the gym (for the first time in a very long time) and onto the running machine. I just clicked on the start button and started walking. However, before I knew it, the machine conned me into running! It felt good, until it sped up to a running speed that I am nowhere near ready for. Still, I burnt 250 calories over approximately 40 minutes and enjoyed listening to some old running tracks. I’m feeling good. I’m feeling pumped! I attended an event at the Sheraton Kampala last night. I had knocked back my second glass of wine and munched through numerous tasty samosas and other nibbles before I remembered that endless grazing ain’t part of the programme now! I can be quite greedy, but when I’m on a training mission suddenly everything changes. Today I ate fruit salad for breakfast. What feels like denial one day makes me feel stronger another day.

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!

#RwenzoriDiary week 1 – commitment!

I’m committed now. You have it in writing. There’s no going back – only up!

I don’t know when and I don’t know by which route; I don’t know who is coming with me, nor do I know which obstacles I’ll find on my path to getting fit again, but I’ve committed to climbing the Rwenzori Mountains. I’ve been looking for a new challenge, and this is it.

Diary of a Muzungu. WWF office. Conserving Rwenzori Mountains

A very proud Diary of a Muzungu outside the WWF office in the Rwenzori Mountains

A few weeks ago, I received a phone call asking if I would be interested in helping to put together a rebranding and marketing strategy for the Rwenzori Mountains region. Would I be interested? Our client is the Uganda Tourism Board and the donor is World Wildlife Fund. Interesting fact (for me, at least!) WWF is the first conservation organisation I ever encountered. In fact, ‘back in the day’ (at primary school) I was a member of the WWF’s Panda Club! I can’t tell you what an honour it is to be working with WWF-Uganda and Associate Professor Wilber Ahebwa to develop tourism in the Rwenzoris. By developing and promoting successful community tourism projects, we can help keep encroachers and poachers out of the National Parks. (Doesn’t that tell you how significant it is for young people to learn about the environment?)

And so a fortnight ago, our team (who I will introduce next week) departed for the Rwenzori region to visit a few of the key stakeholders and communities who will be part of this project. A lot of research has already been done on the ground but WWF wanted us to see for ourselves some of the tourism activities that can be developed and promoted.

Boardwalk. Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

Muzungu poses on the boardwalk at Ruboni Camp in the foothills of the Rwenzoris

I’m as guilty as the next person for having bypassed the region many times and rarely stopping. Several years ago I stayed at the excellent Ruboni Community Camp (where all profits go back to the local community). I’m delighted to hear it is still firmly on the tourist map, but like so many tourist activities in the area, it could do with a boost.

Sunlight boardwalk Ruboni Camp. Outline Rwenzori Mountains

Sunlight on the boardwalk at Ruboni Camp. Outline of the Rwenzori Mountains on the horizon

This month’s visit was the first time I actually entered Rwenzori Mountains National Park. Like most people, I thought I was too unfit to scale any of the peaks so I dismissed the whole idea of walking in the Rwenzoris, “for the timebeing.” Well, that was several years ago now.

Three-horned Chameleon Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris

A chance encounter with a superb Three-horned Chameleon at Ruboni Camp in the Rwenzoris

My week in the region has been illuminating. Full-scale peak climbing is just one of the options, and only a few people will have the fitness and time to do this. There are actually dozens of shorter walks suitable for just about everyone: one day, two day, three day or more, and now I want to do all of them of course! There are an incredible 50 lakes in the Rwenzoris, waterfalls, rivers, spectacular chameleons, birdlife that you will see nowhere else, and so much more. Over the next few weeks and months I’ll be telling you a lot more about the Rwenzori region.

First, let me tell you what I’ve been doing this week.

Last Friday we had an opportunity to sit with John Hunwick, owner of Rwenzori Trekking Services. I’ve thrown a few enquiries his way thanks to a guest blog my friend Jane Goldring wrote about her Rwenzori climb with RTS (one of my most popular blogs incidentally). John was quick to invite me to climb the mountain with RTA, for free. Well Diary of a Muzungu would be nothing without complementaries (!) and this is just the opportunity I’ve been waiting for.

I’ve neglected my fitness over the last two years I’m ashamed to admit. I hurt my foot (through too MUCH exercise, ironically) and gave up while I waited for it to heal. In the meantime I’ve been getting depressed. I’ve missed hanging out with my Boot Camp and Hash House Harrier buddies… but enough already, time to get back on track.

Ethiopian Mountain Challenge

This was my best run ever! 15k non-stop run, circling Wonchi Crater Lake, and still energy left to party all night! Day two of the Ethiopian Mountain Challenge. Pictured with my Hasher friend Jesus (aka Chris)

Climbing the Rwenzoris is not going to be simple. Even at my fittest, I know I’m susceptible to altitude sickness. I felt pretty rotten on my last day of climbing Mount Elgon, and that particular summit is ‘only’ 4,321 metres. I’d love to reach one of the Rwenzoris’ peaks. The highest, Margherita Peak, is 5,109 metres.

I’ve been studying mountain climbing a lot these past weeks and if I don’t summit, it’s not going to be the end of the world. It’s not make or break (although of course I want to!) I relish these next few weeks and months of training almost as much as getting as far as the Rwenzori Mountains. I’ve done similar challenges in the past. They are a real BUZZ!

I need to get fit and I need to lose weight. Losing a few kilos will get me up the mountain a bit easier! Losing a few kilos lessons the chance of injury as well.

Positive stuff I’ve done this week! (Keeping a record keeps me motivated):

Visited Boot Camp to discuss a training schedule with our coach Diamond (didn’t actually exercise, I confess!) Walked from Naguru to Kisementi (45 minutes); ate Super Vitamin salad and healthy chia seed juice for lunch; walked the Hash (1 hour, lots of steep hills, and no beers afterwards); walked one hour today, upto the top of Naguru Hill. (I haven’t given up alcohol completely nor am I exercising every day yet, but I will get there). I have committed to a workout at 6 o’clock tomorrow morning! Gulp.

I have approached two travel writer / bloggers to climb the Rwenzoris with me. One said yes and one said no. I don’t know which worries me more. The first one said yes immediately (because he has absolutely no idea what’s involved!) The second one said no immediately (because “I climbed Mount Kenya once and my experience was so lousy when I hear mountain climbing I shudder with fright.”) I’m glad for the second reaction, it will keep me focused. I have to train for an absolute minimum of two months. If I don’t climb by mid-September, I will have missed the good weather window for this year. (Let me get on and train anyway).

Do you want to climb the Rwenzoris? Have you climbed before? Do you have any tips to help me prepare for this hiking experience? (Do you think I’m mad?)

Wish me luck!

Click here to read the rest of the #RwenzoriDiary series or follow the hashtag on TwitterInstagram and via my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page – and please keep those hiking tips coming!