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Six more great reasons to track gorillas in Uganda!

Five more gorilla families available to track in Bwindi + Tracking fee increases in Uganda.

Got a thing for great apes? This is what you need to know if you want to track gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda in 2024 and beyond

There are now at least SIX* more great reasons to track gorillas in Uganda!

🦍 Did you hear that five more gorilla families are now available for tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest? Scroll down for full information.

🦍 And to make gorilla tracking even more appealing, we’ve just heard that another baby has been born in Rushaga, to the south of the forest.

*5 more gorilla families + 1 new baby = 6

Is there anything cuter than a baby gorilla?

This week brought exciting news from the Uganda Wildlife Authority: a fluffy addition to the Bikingi mountain gorilla family! The newest family member is the offspring of mother Mucecuru and fathered by Silverback Kaharata.

baby Bikingi Mountain Gorilla Family. Brian Nvuyekure Feb 2024 Uganda Wildlife Authority
PHOTO CREDIT to Brian Nvuyekure (Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger) for capturing this special moment in Rushaga, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Five more gorilla families available for tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

With the habituation programme complete, UWA has confirmed that permits can now be booked to see the following gorilla families:

  • Buhoma [northern Bwindi] – Binyindo + Muyambi families
  • Nkuringo [southwest Bwindi] – Posho family
  • Rushaga [southern Bwindi] – Rwigi + Tindatine families

During the course of habituation, which has taken up to four years for some gorilla families, visitors from around the world have accompanied rangers and researchers on their daily monitoring. The process of habituation gradually acclimatises wildlife to the presence of humans. It means we can safely spend time in each other’s company safely without impacting the great apes’ behaviour.

With another five habituated gorilla families, Uganda now has 194 gorilla tracking permits available every day. In addition, there are four permits available for the gorilla habituation experience.

What’s the catch?

Simultaneously, Uganda Wildlife Authority have announced price increases* to primate tracking fees, and a number of other activities, to take effect on July 1 2024. Still, with a gorilla permit in Rwanda costing a hefty $1500, Uganda’s gorilla permits continue to get snapped up very quickly, particularly during peak seasons of summer and Christmas. If you’re planning a gorilla tracking safari, you may even need to reserve permits a year in advance.

*These are the key fee changes, but scroll down for the full list.

Mountain gorilla tracking permits

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks: $800 (currently $700)


Chimp tracking permits

Kibale Forest: $250 (currently $200)
Kyambura Gorge, Queen Elizabeth National Park: $100 (currently $50)


Chimpanzee habituation permits

Kibale Forest: $300 (currently $250)

Gorilla tracking discounts for African passport holders:

Gorilla tracking permit: $500

Gorilla habituation experience: $1000

Why have the fees increased?

The revision in permit fees is a response to the increasing expenses associated with conservation, which encompasses anti-poaching campaigns, patrolling, monitoring and community development initiatives. It’s worth highlighting that a significant portion, specifically 20%, of the fees for permits and park entry is given to invest in communities neighbouring the National Parks. This ensures that experiences with primates (notably gorillas, chimpanzees and golden monkeys) contribute meaningfully to community development.

Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024

Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024
Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024
Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024

Click here to download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s 2024 tariff for all permits and National Parks. Note that unless stated in the letter above, other prices will not increase after July 1 2024 (as far as the muzungu is aware!)

What’s it like to track gorillas and chimpanzees?

I’ve tracked gorillas, chimps and golden monkeys numerous times in Uganda and Rwanda and written extensively about gorilla tracking for international publications. I also work closely with gorilla and chimpanzee conservation NGOs, guides and tour operators. Got a question? Send me a message 😎


Do Rwanda’s baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?

“Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony?” has to be one of the funniest questions I’ve ever been asked!*

The #FOMO [Fear Of Missing Out] is real this week as Rwanda hosts a week-long celebration of conservation and tourism, most visible at the 19th edition of Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony on Friday 1st September. It’s a brilliantly organised event that attracts people from near and far: locals attend for the free performances by local artistes; international ambassadors jet in to name baby gorillas; the rest of us love networking with tourism and conservation colleagues from across Africa as we tour the country and experience The Land of a Thousand Hills‘ growing list of attractions.

What is Kwita Izina?

Kwita Izina is modelled on a tradition in which Rwandans come together as a community to name their children. Since 2005 this has become an official, public event and a global celebration of nature and Rwanda’s commitment to sustainable and responsible tourism. It’s no accident that the Chief Guest is President Kagame and many of his supporters; but you have to hand it to him, this is a really slick show.

374 mountain gorillas have been named over the last 18 years of Kwita Izina.

Rwanda works hard to thank the vets, conservationists, wildlife rangers, donors, tourism experts, international influencers and of course the local community. Media from all nations are in abundance at every event. But this is far more than a free day out for the local community; it’s a public celebration of Rwanda itself too.

What happens at the gorilla naming ceremony?

I’ve been hosted media at Kwita Izina on a number of occasions, courtesy of Rwanda Development Board and The Gorilla Organization. These were great opportunities to research my updates for Horizon Guides and for the Rwanda chapter of Fodor’s Travel’s “The Complete Guide to the African Safari” (and Diary of a Muzungu too of course!)

During Kwita Izina, VIP namers from all walks of life are invited on stage to name one of the year’s baby gorillas, first in Kinyarwanda and then in English

In 2013 I wrote BINGO! Rwanda’s Kwita Izina, gorilla naming ceremony. That year I was a guest of The Gorilla Organization NGO, thanks to Jillian Miller and TGO Chair Ian Redmond. It was an honour to interview Kwita Izina‘s creator Rosette Rugamba at Hotel Muhabura, made famous by Dian Fossey.

Who gets to name Rwanda’s gorilla babies? What do the given names mean? And what is the format of the Kwita Izina event?

You’ll be amazed at the diversity of the attendees! Read more in Celebrating gorillas at “the best Kwita Izina ever!” my account from 2018.

Who will name the gorillas at Kwita Izina in 2023?

  • Bukola Elemide, known as Asa, French singer, songwriter, and recording artist
  • Danai Gurira, Actress, activist and playwright
  • Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser Al-Missned, Co-Founder and Chairperson, Qatar Foundation
  • Bernard Lama, SG Legend
  • Sol Campbell, Arsenal Legend
  • Idrissa Akuna “Idris” Elba OBE and Sabrina Dhowre Elba
  • British actor, producer, and musician. Sabrina is a Canadian model and spouse to Idris Elba
  • Cyrille Bolloré, CEO, Bolloré
  • H.E. Hazza AlQahtani, Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates to the Republic of Rwanda
  • Rt. Hon. Andrew Mitchell MP, Member of Parliament of the United Kingdom
  • Joakim Noah, Former professional basketball player
  • Kevin Hart, Comedian and Actor
  • Winston Duke, Actor and Producer
  • Jonathan Ledgard, Novelist
  • Zurab Pololikashvili, Secretary General of the United Nations World Tourism Organizations
  • Audrey Azoulay, Director General of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation
  • Anders Holch Povlsen, CEO of Bestseller retail clothing chain
  • Larry Green, Trustee, African Wildlife Foundation Board
  • Joe Schoendorf, Silicon Valley Pioneer
  • Nick Stone, Lead director of Wilderness Safaris
  • Innocent Dusabeyezu
  • Ineza Umuhoza Grace, Founder and CEO of the Green Protector
  • Elvine Ineza, Primary Six Student at Regina Pacis School in Musanze District
  • Queen Kalimpinya, Rwandan Rally Car Driver and Gender Equality Advocate
Watch this video of the 2022 Kwita Izina event. Rwandans are rightly proud that the event commentary leads in Kinyarwanda, the country’s main language. (The English commentary starts at 1 minute 34 seconds). Interesting fact: Rwanda’s third official language is Swahili

Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?

*No, the mountain gorillas do not attend the naming ceremony “in person”. They are safe in the sanctuary of Volcanoes National Park blissfully unaware of the thousands of people gathered to celebrate and advocate for their continued survival.

Did you know that if you visit Rwanda during the first week of September, you can get a free invitation to attend Kwita Izina?

If you’re planning to track the gorillas in Rwanda, visit at the end of August or the beginning of September and you can get a free invitation to Kwita Izina. There is tight security (President Kagame attends every year) so invitations need to be planned well in advance through a tour operator or conservation organisation. Other related activities this week include the 2-day Business of Conservation Conference in Kigali, a conservation exhibition and a gala dinner.

Another uniquely Rwandan event that takes place during the same period is the Red Rocks Cultural Festival, in nearby Musanze.

Looking for a tour operator to help you plan a trip to Rwanda or Uganda? Check out my Travel Directory or contact the muzungu.

More acclaim for Uganda’s trailblazing gorilla vet, Dr Gladys!

Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka’s “Walking with Gorillas” book is on sale in all good bookshops.

We’re immensely proud that our very own Dr. Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka has published her memoir. I can’t wait to pick up my copy of her book next week in the UK.

“I recommend this book to everyone interested in conservation, alleviating poverty, and the role of women in society. But perhaps most importantly it is a truly inspiring story of how one determined and dedicated woman overcame many setbacks and faced many dangers to follow and realize her dream.”

Jane Goodall, PhD, DBE and UN Messenger of Peace, from the foreword to “Walking with Gorillas”

Dr Gladys is Uganda’s leading, award-winning wildlife vet and gorilla conservation expert. She is the country’s first ever wildlife vet. In 2017, we collaborated on an ecotourism guide to tracking gorillas for Horizon Guides. For many years, she has been calling on us to all wear masks when tracking the great apes (gorillas and chimpanzees). During the pandemic, I often recalled her words about the threat of disease spread between species:

Humans and gorillas share over 98% genetic material and can easily make each other sick. This means that we have to “tread lightly” when visiting gorillas and take precautionary measures such as not tracking when you are sick, maintaining a distance and in the future going an extra step further by wearing masks to further reduce human disease threats to the critically endangered mountain gorillas.

Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka
BBC Spy in the wild. Uganda. Filming Dr Gladys. John Downer Productions
On location in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest filming “Spy in the wild” for the BBC. Pictured with Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka are Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers and the crew from John Downer Productions

This uplifting debut by conservationist Kalema-Zikusoka reflects on her upbringing in Uganda and career as a wildlife veterinarian. Born in Kampala, Uganda, in 1970, the author was two years old when her father, a former cabinet minister, was abducted and murdered by the forces of then-president Idi Amin. She recounts devoting herself to her education and enrolling at the University of London Royal Veterinary College, becoming at age 26 Uganda’s first veterinarian specializing in wild animals. Vivid anecdotes detail the sometimes gritty nature of her work with endangered mountain gorillas, as when she describes using sugar to help reduce swelling around a gorilla’s prolapse. Through her work, she became “convinced that you couldn’t keep the gorillas healthy without improving the health and well-being of the people with whom they shared their fragile habitats” and began studying disease transmission between humans and primates. That research, she relates, enabled her to successfully advocate for Uganda’s adoption of the “One Health” approach to conservation, which recognizes that human hygiene and health lead to better welfare for plants and animals. The heartwarming narrative testifies to the good that one person can achieve and illuminates the complex interdependence between humans and their environments. Admirers of Jane Goodall will love this.

A summary of “Walking with gorillas” from the publisher
I’m honoured to get a mention in Dr Gladys’ book for our work developing the Gorilla Conservation Coffee website

Read more about Gorilla Conservation Coffee, a clever conservation initiative, a sustainably produced coffee and a great cafe too!

Gorilla Conservation Coffee CTPH Uganda
Uganda’s coffee is trending internationally and locally, coffee culture is booming too! Gorilla Conservation Coffee, a CTPH initiative from Uganda

Her zeal for animals and gorillas in particular, as witnessed in this book, have lead Gladys to ground breaking innovations in conservation winning her global awards. This is an awe-inspiring walk by a remarkable lady who stands to be counted among women of incredible determination and purpose.

HRH Nnabagereka, Sylvia Nagginda Luswata, Queen of Buganda Kingdom, Uganda
Dr Gladys Kalema and Diary of a Muzungu. Explorers Club Uganda
Dr Gladys rocking the coolest dress ever! At the launch of the first sub-Saharan Africa chapter of the Explorers Club, Uganda in 2014

Dr Gladys is an incredible lady. She’s an inspiring role model for Ugandan women – and women everywhere. I can’t wait to read her book!

Have you read Walking with gorillas yet? Write a comment here. I’d love to read your views.

The Challenge of Protecting the Great Apes and the Albertine Rift

Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050 – an overview of the retreat at Mount Gahinga Lodge

If you’ve been following Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know how passionate I am about conservation. I was therefore delighted to be invited to help document Volcanoes Safaris’ conservation retreat at their fabulous Mount Gahinga Lodge. This is the first in a series of posts and podcasts I’ll be publishing about the weekend’s fascinating conversations.

Volcanoes Safaris was honoured to host the “Retreat on The Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050” at Mount Gahinga Lodge in the Ugandan foothills of the Virunga volcanoes. The retreat was the culmination of a series of events in 2022 to celebrate Volcanoes Safaris’ 25th anniversary.

Glorious footage of Mt Gahinga Lodge and the Virunga volcanoes. Short intro by Praveen Moman and key speakers give a flavour of the Volcanoes Safaris’ retreat

Welcome to Mount Gahinga, Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge, by Praveen Moman

Praveen Moman, founder of Volcanoes Safaris welcomed everyone to Mgahinga “the playground of Volcanoes Safaris” an area that Praveen has been visiting with his family since the age of 12 and the location for Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge: Mount Gahinga. Praveen took the opportunity to thank the assembled gathering for the collaboration, partnership and perseverance and to make an impassioned plea to find solutions.

Praveen Moman, Volcanoes Safaris Retreat Mgahinga Uganda 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions
Praveen Moman, Volcanoes Safaris Retreat Mgahinga Uganda 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions

Participants acknowledged that big strides have been made in conservation. Johannes Refisch (UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi) pointed out that mountain gorillas are the only great ape species whose numbers have increased in the past decades. Dr Gladys Zikusoka-Kalema of Conservation Through Public Health noted that mountain gorillas are important to government revenue, commenting “We have a gorilla on a Ugandan banknote.” However, the growing human population, climate change, risk of disease, regional insecurity and other factors will continue to exacerbate environmental challenges.

Welcome to Uganda’s smallest National Park” by Uganda Wildlife Authority

The weekend’s events started with a short walk in the National Park led by Praveen Moman and Richard Muhabwe, Senior Warden, Uganda Wildlife Authority. Muhabwe welcomed everyone to the 33.7 km square Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (MGNP), part of the greater Bwindi Mgahinga Conservation Area. This transboundary Park, contiguous with Volcanoes National Park in DRC and Rwanda, is popular for tracking the Nyakagezi family of nine mountain gorillas, golden monkeys, nature walks and volcano hiking of Mount Muhabura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabyinyo, borders the three countries.

Muhabwe’s welcome speech highlighted many of the environmental challenges that were to be discussed over the coming days. Climate change has led to flooding: mudslides on Mount Muhabura killed ten people and damaged property earlier in 2022. Climate change exacerbates the presence of invasive (plant) species that replace foliage that should feed wildlife. Human wildlife conflict is another local challenge: a 16 km long stone wall along MGNP’s boundary stretches from the border of the DRC to the border of Rwanda and prevents buffaloes straying from the National Park to destroy crops.

The singing from the Batwa village was simply FABULOUS. What an amazing welcome! I was delighted to see Stephen, one of the elders, again. I will never forget my first interaction with this ancient forest tribe and had to have my photo taken with him. 
Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village!
What an amazing welcome! I was delighted to see Stephen, one of the elders, again. I will never forget my first interaction with this ancient forest tribe and had to have my photo taken with him. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village!

One of the highlights of the retreat was an exuberant song and dance display by the villagers who reside in the Batwa Village built on land purchased by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust and other well-wishers. Jane Nyirangano, chairperson of the Gahinga Batwa Village, thanked VSPT for their interventions.

Mount Gahinga Lodge’s eight traditional hand-built guest bandas (two deluxe and six standard rooms) face the magical Virunga Volcanoes  

The purpose of the retreat

Participants at the informal conservation retreat discussed the successes and challenges of the past 25 years of conservation in the Albertine Rift and brainstormed ideas and solutions for ensuring the habitats, parks and wildlife, including the endangered great apes, survive for the next 25 years.

The aim of the retreat was to stimulate new ways of collaboration. It was an opportunity to speak openly about participants’ perspectives, fears and ambitions for this fragile region. By having a longer-term goal, participants were free to imagine a range of scenarios (in contrast to most meetings which tend to focus on the more immediate future). The fundamental questions revolved around: what are we doing right? What else are need to do? Is it a question of scaling up current interventions? Or do we need to adopt new approaches?

We cannot just put wilderness on a pedestal; we need to put bread on the table of local people. We need to use the private sector to be the engine of growth, to deliver business plans, to organise service delivery. We need Protected Area managers and conservationists to look after our species, and veterinarian and disease specialists to safeguard species’ health and protect them for the future. We need to join what’s happening outside a park with what’s happening inside a park. We need to make people part of the conservation chain. We need to make this the beginning of the campaign to save the Albertine Rift.

Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris

Who attended the retreat

Participants came from across the region: wildlife vets, primatologists, researchers, safari guides, wildlife rangers, National Park law enforcement and tourism wardens, foresters, and other conservationists; hospitality consultants, tour operators, development experts, private financiers, community outreach (Herbert) and media.

The retreat was co-moderated by Conservation Consultant Alastair McNeilage and Johannes Refisch of UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi.

Participants were invited to make short, simple presentations on topics of relevance to conservation in the Albertine Rift.

Key conclusions of the retreat

  1. It’s important for stakeholders to consider the Albertine Rift – Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC – as one region and to have a long-term vision for addressing the area’s various challenges.
  2. Concrete steps must be taken to maintain connectivity between small, isolated islands of habitat. This will help make ecosystems more resilient to the impacts of climate change.
  3. The threat of more human diseases affecting great apes is significant so veterinary care and technology will remain critical.
  4. Conservation needs to be part of the economic mainstream for governments and communities to support the continued presence of protected areas in regions where human populations continue to rise.
  5. Local communities must benefit from conservation and tourism. They have a stake in the future of great apes and protected areas and must be involved in development plans.
  6. Tourism can bring significant revenue, but the pandemic has taught us that conservation and communities cannot rely on one sole source of funding. New business models for protected area management must be actively considered. Innovative models have been successfully implemented across Africa. Public-private partnerships, for example, approach conservation management as a business that can cover the protected area’s operational costs and directly benefit communities involved.
  7. Collaboration between conservation organisations and the private sector needs to be developed further. Long-term involvement of researchers, new investment in parks, and application of private sector skills such as ‘business thinking’ and service delivery are important in sensitively developing natural resources and creating ‘professional tourism products’ for sale to visitors.
  8. Gorilla and chimpanzee tourism must be sensitive and controlled in line with the established protocols so that it does not negatively impact the species or habitat. Tourism protocols need to be strictly followed by park authorities, tourism intermediaries and visitors.
  9. Investment in conservation education for the next generation of young Africans is critical, to ensure that young people are educated and inspired to support conservation and tourism. The need for quality education is particularly important for the indigenous Batwa population. Forcibly removed from their forest home, these conservation refugees need a direct benefit from tourism in order to lift their communities out of poverty and help find peaceful human / wildlife co-existence. Conservation education should be an integral part of all stakeholders’ activities.
  10. The retreat agreed to create an informal group: The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group whose aim is to become a long-term advocacy and information network for those involved in this subject area. The focus of the group is to take collaborative action to deal with specific policy issues, threat to a particular species or a habitat or community issue. The group should maintain regular contact, either as a whole or in sub-groups, possibly every quarter through written exchanges, Zoom calls or physical meetings.

Outputs of the retreat

  • The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group is led by Conservation through Public Health and Volcanoes Safaris. The inaugural meeting was held 22nd November 2022 in Kampala.
  • The stakeholders agreed to meet every year, bringing in other partners as appropriate, to review progress. The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund offered to host the next meeting at their Ellen DeGeneres Campus, at Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.
  • The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group has proposed some informal groupings to support action in specific areas; each participant should decide whether they wish to participate in a sub-group.
  • Responsible gorilla tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; the gorilla-friendly pledge; adherence to IUCN and GRASP best practice guidelines; enhancing habitat connectivity.

Lead organisations: Conservation Through Public Health and Gorilla Doctors.

  • Responsible chimpanzee tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; enhancing habitat connectivity.

Lead organisation: Jane Goodall Institute.

About the Albertine Rift

The Albertine Rift stretches from Murchison Falls in northern Uganda to Kahuzi-Biega in the DRC. It is one of the richest areas of biodiversity in the world and one of the most densely populated areas of Africa.

About Volcanoes Safaris and the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust

For 25 years, Volcanoes Safaris has been at the forefront of reviving tourism in Uganda and Rwanda and is recognized as the region’s leader in gorilla and chimpanzee ecotourism. Volcanoes Safaris was the first company to set up simple camps in the areas around Uganda’s gorilla parks. Today Volcanoes Safaris has three lodges in Uganda: Mount Gahinga Lodge at Mgahinga National Park; Bwindi Lodge, bordering Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; and Kyambura Gorge Lodge, overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park, neighbouring a gorge with a community of threatened chimpanzees.

Praveen, Giulia and Partha Moman. Volcanoes Safaris. Mgahinga Uganda 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions

In 2000, Volcanoes Safaris became the first international safari company to take clients to Rwanda and in 2004 opened Virunga Lodge, the first international company to build a lodge near the gorilla park after the war. Virunga Lodge is winner of Condé Nast Traveler readers’ choice awards 2017, 2021 and 2022.

Volcanoes Safaris: recognised leaders in great ape tourism

Volcanoes Safaris helped kick-start gorilla tourism in Rwanda after the genocide through the Volcanoes BLCF Partnership Project. In 2005 the company become a charter signatory to the UN Kinshasa Declaration on Saving the Great Apes, the only private sector company to do so. In 2009, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust (VSPT), a non-profit organisation that aims to create long-term, self-sustaining projects that enrich the livelihoods of local communities and promote the conservation of the great apes, was established.

In 2013, Praveen Moman, the founder was asked to join the Congo Basin Forest Partnership, which promotes sensitive economic development of the forests of Central Africa. Praveen has been described as a ‘visionary conservationist’ by the Financial Times and as ‘one of top twenty-five conservation-philanthropists’ in Africa by Departures Magazine. In 2021 Praveen was named winner of the Newsweek Future of Travel Awards.

About the retreat

The retreat took place at Mount Gahinga Lodge between November 12-14 2022. The next retreat will take place in one to two years’ time.

“We need the wisdom of all you, of your elders, of those who have gone before, of your institutions, to work together.”

Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris
Praveen Moman Volcanoes Safaris with Dr Gladys Kalema Zikusoka. Mgahinga Uganda November 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions

For further information

If you’re are interested in future meetings, you’re welcome to contact the Great Apes in the Albertine Rift steering committee via email albertineapes@gmail.com.

  • Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, Founder, Conservation Through Public Health.
  • Jean Paul Hirwa, Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund
  • James Byamukama, Jane Goodall Institute
  • Alastair McNeilage, Conservation consultant
  • Johannes Refisch, UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi
  • Nick Radford, Wildlife Conservation Society
  • Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris

How to photograph the mountain gorillas

Tips for taking good photos of gorillas

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
I hope you enjoy my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking – feel free to share it!

If you enjoy photographing wildlife, the visibility of the gorillas will be particularly important. You’ll probably be desperate to get great photos of this once in a lifetime experience to show family and friends back home.

In Uganda, it can be difficult to capture good photos under the dark canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, as the name suggests! If you are very lucky, you may encounter your gorilla family in a clearing.

In Rwanda, the vegetation tends to be more bamboo and short grass, and therefore can make for better photography, although the skies may still be grey overhead.

You will be on the move, so it’s best to get as organised as possible before you start your gorilla trek. If you hire a porter, which is highly recommended, then you can take a fair bit of kit with you.

Here are a few tips for photographing the gorillas:

If you’re taking photos using a standard point-and-shoot camera:

  • Make sure your camera battery is fully charged.
  • Always take extra memory cards.
  • Remember that flash photography is not allowed when you are with the gorillas. Make sure you have your camera manual with you so you know how to disable the automatic flash and automatic focus light functions.
  • Keep your camera and/or phone in a waterproof bag (such as a large Ziploc bag). Cue: you’re in the rainforest.
  • Take a zoom lens, wide angle lens and an in-between / fixed focal length lens.
  • It may be tricky to change lenses while the gorillas are moving around so take more than one camera body if you can.
  • Take fast film (400-1600 ASA) if you have a film camera.
  • Photographs of gorillas in the low light of the forest can appear underexposed. More experienced photographers recommend shooting at ISO 1250 or higher in the forest.

Professional filmmakers require permission and need to purchase filming permits in advance from Uganda Wildlife Authority (Uganda) or Rwanda Development Board (Rwanda).

Personal DVD recorders are allowed. It’s fairly easy to shoot videos of the mountain gorillas, as you will be close to them and they are generally slow movers.

Taking a photo with the gorillas is all part of the tracking experience. Ladies, remember to look in the mirror before you go off to see the gorillas. (My gorilla selfies are the worst!) LOL. I look so sleepy.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Are mountain gorillas endangered?

What is the conservation status of Mountain Gorillas?

Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are classified as ‘endangered’ on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species. It was only in 2018 that they were recategorised from the ‘critically endangered’ listing.

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
Have you read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking?

“Today, mountain gorillas are threatened, not due to a demand for their meat, or their infants, but due to a demand for the lush forest in which they live. For the poverty-stricken communities living around the gorilla habitat it is the forest that provides them with many of their basic human needs, and in the war torn areas of Democratic Republic of the Congo these needs are exaggerated.”

Gorilla conservation is the number one conservation priority in Uganda and Rwanda. Gorilla tourism has helped bring the mountain gorilla population back from the brink of extinction but threats to their survival are still very real. The biggest threats to the gorillas come from humans: illegal logging of the rainforest, poaching, encroachment of land for farming and the risk of disease transmission by humans. Additionally, political instability is still a major factor affecting the Congolese population of mountain gorillas in the DRC region of the Virunga Volcanoes.

“Active conservation [of gorillas] involves simply going out into the forest, on foot, day after day after day, attempting to capture poachers, killing—regretfully—poacher dogs, which spread rabies within the park, and cutting down traps.”

The gorilla population numbers in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from a shockingly low census record of just 254 gorillas in 1981 to an estimated 880 individuals in 2013. In 2018, we were delighted to learn the combined population has just passed the 1,000 mark.

Rangers continue to put their lives on the line every day to protect these gentle giants. Poaching of gorillas is thankfully very rare these days, however they can unwittingly become caught in snares set for other animals.

Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony every September is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face.

If you trek to see the mountain gorillas, you may be interested to know that a percentage of every gorilla permit fee goes to the communities living around the National Parks. The benefits of this are many: local communities receive a tangible benefit from tourism in remote parts of the country where there are few employment opportunities. This direct financial incentive encourages local people to support tourism. Entry into the national parks is strictly controlled. Before the national parks were gazetted, people entered the forest to collect firewood, burn charcoal, set snares and hunt. The promotion of farming outside the protected areas (vegetable gardens and goat rearing) and the development of alternatives to charcoal (fuel-efficient stoves and solar panels) are just some of the projects that conservation organisations promote in local opportunities.

The removal of the Batwa ‘Pygmies,’ the traditional forest dwellers, from the gorillas’ habitat was another step that the authorities took in the 1990s, when the gorilla population seemed to face certain extinction. The Batwa culture and way of life are unique. By visiting and supporting the Batwa projects (developed as alternative ways of living outside the forest that once supported them) you are directly supporting gorilla conservation.

In recent decades, many people from all over the world have dedicated their lives to the conservation of the mountain gorilla. In 1985, pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, was found dead in her home in Volcanoes National Park, believed to have been murdered by one of the poachers she fought in her protection of the gorillas. The mountain gorillas are better protected than ever, and their numbers rising slowly, but each year, rangers from Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo put their own lives in danger to protect these marvellous creatures. The ‘Galiwango, Life of a Gorilla’ animated film project pays tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of these rangers.

Which conservation organisations are working to protect the mountain gorillas?

For information on some of the conservation issues and initiatives in and around the national parks of Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo, visit:

Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH)

The Gorilla Organization (TGO) works with communities to protect the habitats of the Mountain Gorillas of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) manages the country’s National Parks. UWA rangers are constantly monitoring the whereabouts of Uganda’s gorillas.

Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGF)

Blog of the Gorilla Doctors Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project

International Gorilla Conservation Programme IGCP

Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund MGCF

Berggorilla & Regenwald Direckthilfe

Gorilla tracking tourism and numerous community tourism initiatives all help raise funds and awareness the plight of the endangered mountain gorillas.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Gorilla Tracking Rules [UPDATED]

What are the rules for tracking the Mountain Gorillas? Why do we need them?

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  • Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and Rwanda Development Board (RDB) have clear rules and regulations to protect both gorillas and the humans that track them.
  • The ranger guides will do their utmost to find the gorillas for you. These conservation rangers are in frequent radio contact, constantly monitoring the health, safety and whereabouts of the mountain gorilla populations.
  • Although no tourist has ever been seriously hurt by a habituated gorilla, you should always remember that an adult gorilla is several times stronger than a human, and can be disturbed by human activity, particularly if the gorillas are nursing infants or sick – or simply not in the mood to be disturbed!
  • The maximum group size for tracking the gorillas is 8 to 10 people per group
  • Gorilla trackers must be fit and in good health. Trekking in thick forest at heights over 2,000 metres, traversing steep mountains and ravines can be tough and frequently wet. Gorillas are susceptible to many human diseases, including COVID-19, diarrhoea, colds and the flu. You should not go gorilla tracking if you have any of these.
  • Your cough or sneeze can be lethal to a gorilla. Gorilla tracking was closed for many months at the start of the pandemic but has reopened. However, stricter regulations are in place to track all mountain gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC. For example, as soon as you enter the National Park you must wear a good quality facemask. You must keep the mask on at all times. When you find the gorillas, you will be asked to put on a clean facemask.
  • Gorillas can catch diseases from discarded human rubbish. Don’t litter or spit while in the gorillas’ habitat.
  • Do not touch the gorillas, even if they come close. They can be very curious.
  • Do not make any sudden movements.
  • If a gorilla charges, do not run away. Stay calm. Slowly crouch down and avoid direct eye contact, until the gorilla moves away in its own time.
  • Leave a distance of at least ten metres between you and the gorillas – although the gorillas do not always stick to this rule! If the gorillas start moving towards you, the rangers may advise you to move backwards away from them. (Pre-pandemic, experts said we should keep seven metres distance; this has been upwardly revised to 10 metres).
  • Do not surround the gorillas. View them from a distance and in groups.
  • One hour is allowed with the gorillas.
  • Personal DVD recorders are allowed. Professional filmmakers need to purchase filming permits in advance from UWA or RDB.
  • If you need to go to the toilet while you are in the forest, tell your guide, and they will dig a hole for you. Make sure you cover the hole afterwards to prevent possible transfer of disease to the gorilla population.
  • You will be given a list of the Gorilla Tracking Rules with your tracking permit and reminded of them again on the morning of your gorilla trek.
  • Flash photography is not allowed. It can be difficult to capture good photos of the gorillas under the dark canopy of the rainforest. If you have a film camera, fast film (400-1600 ASA) is useful.

For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Packing list for tracking gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda

What equipment do I need to bring to track the gorillas? What clothes should I wear?

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Since day porters are very affordable, you can pack all the recommended gorilla tracking clothing, equipment and water, without having to worry about how you will carry it.

Here’s my recommended packing list for tracking the gorillas:

  • Walking boots or shoes (boots are better because they have better grip and support your ankles on hilly terrain)
  • Breathable waterproof jacket and trousers. Even if it doesn’t rain, the ground and vegetation are generally wet. Wearing waterproof trousers means you can kneel to get gorilla photos or slide down slippery slopes.
  • Long-sleeved shirt (to protect yourself from tree branches, the sun and insects)
  • Gaiters (or long socks) to tuck long trousers into (to correct legs from scratches and keep insects out)
  • A fleece or light wool sweater
  • Sunglasses, sunscreen and sunhat
  • Gloves to grip the vegetation (dime store or ‘pound shop’ gardening gloves are perfect!)
  • Camera equipment
  • A walking pole. If you don’t have one, I highly recommend taking up the offer of a walking pole or stick. Sometimes the lodge provides them, other times, the guide may cut one for you from bamboo. Even one pole can be a big help for climbing up and easing yourself back down steep or muddy hills
  • Include plenty of water. Hydration is very important. Your lodge should provide you with a packed lunch and drinking water. (Don’t be afraid to ask for more than one bottle!)
  • Tips (at your discretion) for your rangers and porter
  • Lastly and most importantly: don’t forget to take your gorilla trekking permit and your passport (or the identification you used when reserving your permit). You will need to show your ID at the pre-tracking briefing.
  • Pack all of this in a small backpack

Mornings in the mountains can be cool and nights can be surprisngly cold. You will probably experience mist and quite possibly rain while you are tracking the gorillas. It can also get quite hot, from the sun and/or the hiking uphill. Layered clothing is recommended, ideally the ‘wick-away’ moisture type.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the 
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure! [UPDATED]

Gorilla tracking – a typical day: what to expect

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I shall never forget my first encounter with gorillas. Sound preceded sight. Odor preceded sound in the form of an overwhelming, musky-barnyard, humanlike scent. The air was suddenly rent by a high-pitched series of screams followed by the rhythmic rondo of sharp pok-pok chestbeats from a great silverbacked male obscured behind what seemed an impenetrable wall of vegetation.

Dian Fossey in Gorillas in the Mist (1983) describing her 1963 trip to Kabara. (The screams and chest-beating were of alarm, not ferocity.)

Part of the excitement of tracking the gorillas is wondering exactly where you will find them! As their name suggests, Mountain gorillas live at high altitude. The dense jungle, altitude and muddy terrain can be tiring and some visitors may find the tracking very challenging. Keep your own pace and drink plenty of water. Avoid getting dehydrated.

After early breakfast, your lodge should provide you with a packed lunch and plenty of drinking water. (Check that the packed lunch has been organised when you retire to bed the night before you track). Even if the weather looks fine before you embark on your hike, the higher you get, the more it rains (so don’t forget your rain gear!)

The once in a lifetime gorilla tracking experience starts with an early morning briefing, around 7.30 to 8 AM depending where you are tracking. You will be reminded of the Gorilla Trekking Rules, in place to protect the gorillas and their precious habitat. One of the main rules is that if you are feeling ill, you are obliged to advise the authorities. They will decide whether you are healthy enough to trek. Remember that the health of the critically endangered gorillas is more important than your holiday: a cold or the flu can be fatal to a gorilla.

After your briefing, you will have the opportunity to hire a porter for the day. Highly recommended!

Although one family is sometimes found very near to the start of the gorilla tracking in Uganda, generally you will walk for an hour or more before you find the gorillas. The countryside is incredibly beautiful. For me, the trek is a wonderful part of the whole experience.

Radio contact between the wildlife rangers and information from the previous day’s gorilla sightings make it possible for the rangers to guide you to the right place to find the gorillas.

As you come within range, the rangers will ask you to leave your bags and non-essentials so you can approach the gorillas more closely, cameras at the ready. Take time to simply enjoy the presence of these amazing animals. Do come out from behind the camera lens occasionally.

Immediately I was struck by the physical magnificence of the huge jet-black bodies blended against the green palette wash of the thick forest foliage.

Dian Fossey, Gorillas in the Mist

You will spend an hour with the gorillas, during which time they may be munching on bamboo, hanging from the trees above your head, grooming each other, suckling their babies, playing, sleeping, farting or even having sex! You just never know what to expect.

One of the most important Gorilla Trekking Rules is to keep a distance of seven metres from the gorillas. There’s no guarantee that the gorillas will stick to this however! You will often move around the forest while you are with them. If they approach you, the rangers will ask you to step back. Equally if they walk into the forest, you may be allowed to follow them a little way. Sometimes you will see the gorillas in a light clearing. At other times they will be in dark forest. You need to bear this in mind if you’re planning to take a lot of photos. Bring fast film, if you’re shooting film. Regardless of what type of camera you have, you must always make sure the flash is switched off.

The route back to the park headquarters is often shorter, although some tracks may involve you climbing back uphill in places.

Back at base in Uganda, you will be given your gorilla trekking certificate. Bragging rights, yeah!

(Rwanda used to issue paper certificates too and may offer some similar recognition again in the future. In 2018, RDB were giving trackers beautiful presentation boxes of tea or coffee – Rwandese of course).

The UWA and RDB conservation ranger guides are very knowledgeable and will take good care of you while you are in the forest. These ranger guys (and occasionally girls) will help you negotiate sometimes steep and often muddy ground too. Whether you have questions about the gorillas, or about the wildlife, birds and plants of the forest, feel free to ask. The guides know each gorilla family intimately and can tell you the names and habits of each family member. There is so much to learn about these fascinating and humble primates.

Tips for the rangers are discretionary but very much appreciated. Estimate $15-20 per tracker/ranger. Tips should be in small US dollar bills (dated post-2006) or local currency (Uganda shillings or Rwandese francs, depending on which country you are trekking in).

What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure. How your day starts in Uganda

Gorilla tracking registration and briefing take place at the Uganda Wildlife Authority park offices from 7.45 am and tracking usually starts at 8.30 am. It is here that you will be given the name of the specific gorilla family you are tracking. Some gorilla families are easier to track than others; it all depends at what altitude they range, or what distance they cover during the day. It normally takes 1 to 3 hours tracking time (each way) to find your gorilla family. If you’re fit, pushing through the dense jungle of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, with a ranger hacking through the occasional branch with his machete in front of you, can be quite an adventure! I LOVE IT!

What to expect on your gorilla tracking adventure. How your day starts in Rwanda

Tea and coffee are provided from around 7.00 am for gorilla tracking visitors assembled in Kinigi, where entertainment was once provided by the traditional Intore dancers from SACOLA (Sabyinyo Community Livelihoods Association). In 2018, entertainment was provided by a large TV screen showing happy trackers. (Bring back the dancers, I say!)

In Rwanda, your gorilla family will be assigned to you at the early morning briefing. The fitter (and more willing!) you are, the more likely you are to be allocated a gorilla family that involves a longer trek. The rangers assess you according to your health, general fitness, age and interests.

You can opt for a short hike (of between 30 minutes to an hour), a medium one (from one hour to three hours) or a longer hike to the large Susa group, which may take the whole day.

Gorilla tracking in Rwanda generally starts with a 45 minute walk up gently sloping farmland. The backdrop of the volcanoes is spectacular and the air is pure. As you approach the park entrance, the ground becomes steeper and thick with bamboo.

Depending on the group you are with, your total tracking time will take 30 minutes to four hours (in either direction). Generally, gorilla tracking is less strenuous in Rwanda than in Uganda.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

(FAQs) about gorilla tracking [UPDATED]

Answers to commonly asked questions.

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Am I guaranteed to see the gorillas?

  • Purchasing a gorilla tracking permit is not a guarantee of seeing the gorillas but you will have an over 95% chance of seeing them, thanks to the rangers’ 24 hour monitoring. The habituated gorilla families do occasionally move out of range, but this is very rare.

Can I change the date of my gorilla tracking permit?

  • Permits are non-refundable except for medical reasons, in which case you would need to provide a medical certificate.

When is best time of year to track the mountain gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?

  • Personally, I wouldn’t let the weather forecast decide when the best time is to see the gorillas since it rains most days in the rainforest. The rain may not be heavy, but there will certainly be low-lying mist and wet vegetation. Of course, some treks and trails are muddier than others!
  • Predicting the rainy seasons is not an exact science these days but broadly speaking, the rainy seasons are March and April and October and November.
  • Uganda and Rwanda enjoy round temperatures of between 21°C and 30°C throughout the year. In the higher altitudes of the mountain gorillas’ habitat, it can be as cold as 10°C.
  • Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony in the first week of September is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face. This superb event is by invitation only – but, if you’re touring the country, you’re invited! (There is no charge, but your tour operator will need to secure your invitation in advance).

How many days should I book for my gorilla tracking tour?

  • You will need to set aside at least three days to see the gorillas in Uganda. Allow one day for travel to your accommodation, one day for the gorilla tracking itself and a third day for travel back or onwards, wherever you opt for. (It is possible to reduce a gorilla tracking tour to two days in Rwanda, but I wouldn’t recommend it. Some crazy people even fly in and out in one day, but don’t do it!)

Can I choose the time of day that I track the gorillas?

  • You will need to be up very early on the day of the gorilla tracking and the day will be physically demanding, so you will need to arrive at your lodge by 6 or 7 PM on the day before you track. Note that it gets dark early on the Equator, and we only advise travelling in daylight hours, owing to the long distance and remoteness of your destination. Have an early night in preparedness for the next day.
  • In the evening after your tracking, kick back, relax and relive your adventure in one of the lodges near the gorilla tracking areas before travelling the next day, or even the day after.

Should I hire a porter to track the gorillas?

  • Hiring a porter means you can pack all your camera equipment, rain gear, snacks and plenty of water without worrying about how you will manage to drag it up a muddy slope through bushy undergrowth!
  • In areas where the majority of people are subsistence farmers, portering jobs are invaluable. The day fees for a porter bring in cash – a rare commodity in this remote corner of Africa. By employing someone on a gorilla trekking tour, even for a day, you are reminding people of the personal value to be gained from protecting the mountain gorillas and their habitat. These employment opportunities help reduce encroachment into the protected areas – to set snares or collect timber – where the mountain gorillas live. Employ a porter and you’re not just helping yourself, you are supporting the local community and thus the gorillas themselves.
  • The cost to hire a porter is $10-15 (plus discretionary $5 tip). Tips should be in small US dollar bills (dated post-2006) or local currency (Uganda shillings or Rwandese francs, depending on which country you are trekking in).
  • TIP: although the rangers will accompany you all the way back to the park headquarters, occasionally the porters leave your group before you reach there, so make sure you have the right money for tips with you, just in case they depart early.

For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

How to buy gorilla tracking permits? [UPDATED]

Where can I buy Mountain Gorilla tracking permits for Uganda and Rwanda? Do I need to book permits in advance? When are the peak seasons?

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Gorilla tracking permits need to be purchased in advance, that is six months or even a year in advance if you’re travelling during peak season or if you are in a large group. The earlier you book, the more choice you have on where you track and where you stay. Last minute bookings may be possible during low season or where there are just one or two people tracking, but availability of gorilla tracking permits is not guaranteed. This applies to Uganda in particular where there is high competition for the permits (owing to the lower fee than in Rwanda).

The busy peak seasons are June through to October and Christmas and the New Year.

Each gorilla family can only be visited one hour per day. There is a minimum age requirement of 15 years to track the gorillas in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC.

Gorilla tracking permits can be purchased up to two years in advance through the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) or the Rwanda Tourism Board (RTB) or via a registered tour company. DRC gorilla permits can be bought on the VisitVirunga web site.

The advantages of booking with a tour operator or Safari company is that they have intimate local knowledge of the accommodation options and proximity of gorilla families. They know these remote areas well and their drivers are experts at negotiating slippery, steep dirt roads. If you plan to extend your trip (and most people do) the company can make travel recommendations and arrange all the activity and accommodation bookings for you.

To book your gorilla tracking permit, you will need to provide:

  • The date(s) you would like to track the gorillas. Suggest a few dates in case your first choice of date is already booked up. Ideally, scan and email a copy of your passport to whoever is organising your permits.
  • Your name, nationality and passport number. Gorilla tracking permits are non-transferable. (Note that you will need to show your passport or some other ID at the pre-tracking briefing).
  • Payment. The best way to pay is by bank wire transfer. Remember to instruct your bank to deduct any transaction charges from your account.
  • If you are buying gorilla tracking permits directly from UWA or RDB, you will need to send them the bank payment confirmation email.
  • If you are buying gorilla tracking permits from a tour operator, note that not all tour operators in East Africa accept credit cards. Of those that do, many add a hefty surcharge (of between 3% and 9%). Once the tour company have your preferred dates and personal details, they can make a temporary reservation with the authority.
  • Confirmation of your reservation. You should receive a scanned copy of your gorilla tracking permit within a few days or weeks. When you arrive in country, your tour driver guide will give you your original permit or you will collect it from the UWA / RTB office (if you are travelling independently).

Your gorilla tracking permit will have a unique serial number and your personal details written on it. It is non-transferable.

Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Uganda

To reserve gorilla tracking permits in Uganda, you will need to specify which park (Bwindi or Mgahinga) you would like to visit. Before your tracking, UWA staff will advise which gorilla family you will track, according to your fitness level and interests.

Uganda’s gorilla families are spread over a wide geographic area, so it is important that you book accommodation that is within an hour’s drive – or a few minutes’ walk – of the start of the gorilla tracking.

To purchase gorilla tracking permits, you will need to buy them through a tour company if you are an international visitor. Ugandans and expats in Uganda can make independent purchases at the Uganda Wildlife Authority reservations office on Kira Road, Kampala or call +256 (0)414 355 409/410 or email reservations@ugandawildlife.org. (TIP: in-person visits are always more effective but the reservations office can get extremely busy).

Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Rwanda

It is slightly easier to reserve gorilla tracking permits in Rwanda, as everyone starts their day at park headquarters in Kinigi so you don’t need to specify your lodge location or a gorilla family. Before your tracking, RDB staff will advise which gorilla family you will track, according to your fitness level and interests.

Rwanda gorilla trekking permits and tours can be made through a tour company or Rwanda Development Board’s bookings portal. You can also buy permits in person at the tourism office at RDB’s excellent ‘one stop centre’ in Kigali. This is located on the ground floor of RDB’s gleaming Head Office, KN 5 Road, KG 9 Avenue, Gishushu. The centre is open from 9 am – 5 pm from Monday to Friday.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

How much does it cost to track the mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]

How much are gorilla tracking permits in Uganda and Rwanda?

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A gorilla tracking permit includes entry into the National Park, experienced ranger guides who will escort you while sharing unlimited gorilla facts, one hour with the gorillas themselves and – most importantly – bragging rights in the form of a gorilla tracking certificate (in Uganda) and endless selfies (wherever you track!) Woo hoo!

How much are Uganda gorilla tracking permits?

UPDATE NOVEMBER 28th 2020.

Uganda gorilla tracking fees – (Bwindi & Mgahinga) until end June 2024Gorilla tracking permitGorilla habituation experience
Foreign non-resident (international tourists)USD 700USD 1,500
Foreign resident (expats) in UgandaUSD 600USD 1,000
Ugandans & EAC citizensUGX 250,000UGX 750,000
For the full list of Uganda Wildlife Authority fees, click to download the tariff.

How much are Rwanda gorilla tracking permits?

Rwanda gorilla tracking fees (2023 fees)Gorilla tracking permitFee for Student/Child
Foreign non-resident (international tourists)USD 1,500n/a
Foreign resident (expats) in Rwanda USD 500USD 500
Rwandans & EAC citizensUSD 200*USD 200
African citizen / Foreign resident in AfricaUSD 500*USD 500
For more fees from Rwanda Development Board VisitRwanda.com

*UPDATE 2023: Until the end of 2023, Rwandans, expats and all Africans can track gorillas in Rwanda at the discounted prices listed above. This is unlikely to be extended, according to official sources.

  • After repositioning itself as an upmarket tourist destination, in May 2017 Rwanda increased gorilla tracking permits to $1500 each, regardless of whether you were an international tourist, expat or East African residents. That sounds like a bum deal for local people (but RDB argue that only a tiny percentage of permits were sold to locals).
  • Rwanda has an exclusive package for tourists who would like to book a whole family of gorillas. Priced at US$ 15,000, the group get access to exclusive personalised tour guiding.
  • Visitors to Rwanda who track the gorillas and visit Nyungwe Forest and Akagera National Parks for a minimum of three days will qualify for a 30% discount on their gorilla permit.
  • International visitors attending conferences in Rwanda are eligible for a 15% discount on gorilla permit fees if tracking the gorillas before or after their conference.

How much are DRC gorilla tracking permits?

Gorilla tracking permits in the DRC are very cheap by comparison. Congolese citizens have preferential pricing but other East Africans don’t.

What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?

For the best value for money, most visitors to East Africa will combine gorilla trekking with a Safari before or after their trip.

Booking your gorilla permits yourself and travelling by public transport is possible but there are pitfalls to be aware of. The downside of making your own arrangements is that you can sometimes end up incurring more costs. If, for example, you miss your bus or it breaks down (not uncommon) you might miss your gorilla trek. Permits are non-refundable, meaning if you arrive a day late, then you will have missed your slot. Most visitors therefore travel on a scheduled group tour or book their own driver and vehicle, usually through a tour company, such as one of the registered companies featured in my Travel Directory.

The other pitfall to avoid when arranging gorilla tracking yourself in Uganda is booking accommodation that is a long way from the gorilla family you are tracking. You will have to be up very early on the morning of your tracking so you want to stay as close as possible to the park headquarters. (Uganda’s gorilla families are spread several hours apart).

The average mid-range three day gorilla safari costs approximately $1200, depending on the number of people in your group. The cheapest way to see the gorillas is to travel on a scheduled overland trip during low season. If a tour is advertised to include gorilla tracking then the cost of the permit should be included in the price you are quoted, but do read the small print carefully!

A top of the range luxury gorilla Safari may cost $3 – $5,000 per person and may include fly-in options and five-star accommodation.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.