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Swim, cycle or run? (Win fab prizes!) Kyaninga Triathlon May 2024

Are you a runner? Do you ride a bike? Do you swim?

Kyaninga Lodge KCDC triathlon, duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024
Kyaninga Lodge triathlon / duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024

If you can do all – or even one – of these sports, then why not get a team together for the superb Kyaninga Triathlon on May 18th 2024? (We still have time to get in shape!) You can also sign up for a fun run, duathlon or bike ride. The annual triathlon takes place in the glorious countryside around Kyaninga Lodge outside Fort Portal, western Uganda. Full details – prices + how to enter + race descriptions + contact details – are on the Kyaninga Events website.

NOTE: info on this page is updated every year.

Do you fancy winning a night at one of Uganda’s top lodges?

Scroll down to read how to buy raffle tickets to night stays at Kyaninga Lodge, Ndali Lodge, Buhoma Lodge, Mihingo Lodge, Red Chilli Hideaway, Aramaga Rift Valley Lodge, Seasons Lodge Zanzibar, Little Elephant Camp, Kikorongo Safari Lodge, Rwakobo Rock, Turaco Treetops and Trekkers Safari Lodge.

Help change the futures of children with disabilities in Uganda

All proceeds of these fundraiser events go to the amazing Kyaninga Child Development Centre who work with disabled children and their families. I have seen the positive impact of their work – it’s life-changing! 13% of children in Uganda – that’s more than 2.5 million children – are living with a disability

How to register for the Kyaninga Triathlon + how to buy raffle tickets to win awesome prizes at lodges, cafes and restaurants across Uganda

1. Visit the Kyaninga Triathlon website for more info.

2. If you’re in Uganda, register for all these events OR pay for raffle tickets by using MTN MoMo Pay 613517.

3. Got a question? WhatsApp Fiona at KCDC on +256 778277248 or events@kyaningacdc.org

4. Buy a ton of raffle tickets! You can even buy them remotely and your numbers will be sent via WhatsApp.

5. Looking for ideas on accommodation around Fort Portal? Send me a message.

History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a mobile app

The launch of three free maps, a free mobile app and a book of photography gives unprecedented information about Uganda’s architectural heritage at 60+ sites across Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe.

This is your chance to explore – and help preserve – Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe’s 60+ historical buildings and sites – and it’s nearly all FREE!

One of the (few) things that I miss about Europe is the architecture. The continent’s rich history is preserved and celebrated through houses and office blocks, castles, and palaces. The collective history of these buildings can be traced back centuries.

My early career was spent working with architects in London and my mantra was always to ‘look up’ – to explore what was going on above street level, beyond the modern signage and the shop facades.

Uganda has some interesting old buildings but many are under threat from developers who would rather put up something new than re-purpose an existing structure. Although some buildings may look dilapidated now, there’s no reason why most can’t be given a face lift. In Europe, heritage is a big business.

Kampala's historical buildings and sites
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I was therefore delighted when Verity from CCFU told me all about a brilliant initiative that aims at preserving what remains of Uganda’s unique built heritage. I have visited the Baha’i Temple and Jinja’s old buildings fascinate me; I often wonder at the history of the old buildings along Kampala Road. It’s now easier than ever for you to explore these and many more places yourself. If you work in tourism, how can you include these places on a tour?

Uganda’s Built Heritage – a free mobile phone app

The app features over 60 buildings that represent Uganda’s architectural history, covering the pre-colonial era and post-independence Uganda.

Uganda’s Built Heritage app brings Uganda’s history to life as you walk or drive down the street!

Uganda’s Built Heritage. CCFU app screenshot
The “Uganda’s Built Heritage” app is free to download
Uganda’s Built Heritage app screenshot
A view of the Kampala section of the “Uganda’s Built Heritage” app
  • See photos, descriptions and contact information for historical sites and buildings
  • Read overviews of each town and city
  • Plan walking or driving routes between historical sites
  • Set up alerts to notify you when you pass historical places
  • Share your discoveries with friends online

Click here to download Uganda’s Built Heritage app from Play Store (Android) or App Store (iPhone). The app is free

Maps – explore the historical sites of Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe

Three high-quality maps have been produced to help tourists and members of the public understand and appreciate the history around us. The maps detail the historical buildings and sites for each of the three cities with a clear annotated street plan.

Map of Jinja's Historical Buildings and Sites CCFU
Map of Jinja’s Historical Buildings and Sites from CCFU
  1. A Map of Kampala’s Historical Buildings and Sites
  2. A Map of Jinja’s Historical Buildings and Sites
  3. A Map of Entebbe’s Historical Buildings and Sites   

Click on the links above to download PDF versions of each map or visit the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda

“Beyond the Reeds and Bricks – Historical Sites and Buildings in Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe” photographic book

“Beyond the Reeds and Bricks: Historical Sites and Buildings in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe” presents beautiful pictures that were taken exclusively for this project. The narrative sets the 60+ locations in their historical, social and political contexts and highlights why they still matter today.

Jinja's historical buildings and sites
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This book bears witness to the richness of Uganda’s historical buildings and sites (some hidden, some prominent) surrounding us in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe. From the legacy of pre-colonial kingdoms to the introduction of western education, medicine, and religions, the growth of commerce and industry, through to Uganda’s forging a new independent identity, this book documents the country’s story through those historical buildings and sites that still stand today.

"Beyond reeds and bricks" photo book Kampala, Jinja, Entebbe CCFU
“Beyond the reeds and bricks” a photographic book about Historical Sites and Buildings of Kampala, Jinja and Entebbe

The book is available at Aristoc, Kardamom & Koffee (KAR Drive in Kololo), Entebbe airport departure lounge bookshop and from CCFU’s office on Makerere Hill. The book is priced at 150,000 UGX.

Background to this project

Urbanization, rapid population growth and the drive for modernity have created a constant demand for higher-density development (such as multi-story apartments). These are often on plots which are already occupied by historical buildings and sites. As a result, many heritage sites have already been lost forever. The risk of losing more of the county’s heritage is real and needs to be addressed as a matter of urgency.

Loss of historic sites means a lost connection with a shared past. Without the unique features of the built environment, one Ugandan city risks becoming indistinguishable from any other. Each building has a story to tell about the people who lived or worked there and about the history of Uganda.

This issue is recognized internationally through Sustainable Development Goal 11, reflecting a global realization that many urban cities are expanding fast and risk losing their historical and cultural identity if heritage infrastructure and associated cultural values are not preserved and promoted.

National and local government are strongly encouraged to “identify, list, protect and promote historical properties in their respective cities and to serve as examples of preservation champions to other municipalities.”

Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda. European Union launch event May 2019 CCFU
Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda. European Union launch event May 2019 CCFU

On African World Heritage Day 2019, the Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) with support from the European Union together with Ugandan partners launched a mobile app, three maps, and a photographic book. The aim of the project? To protect the posterity of historical buildings and sites in Kampala, Jinja, and Entebbe.

Entebbe's historical buildings and sites
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The three products illustrated here are the result of a year-long collaboration to mark the 2018 European Year of Cultural Heritage “which provided an ideal opportunity to share the European experience with like-minded Ugandan institutions.” The Embassy of Ireland is also acknowledged for its role in the early days of this project.

The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda (CCFU) is a national not-for-profit NGO, dedicated to promoting the recognition of culture as vital for human development that responds to Uganda’s national identity and diversity. CCFU was founded in 2006, premised on the conviction that positive aspects of culture can be harnessed to bring about social and economic transformation. For more information visit the CCFU web site email ccfu@crossculturalfoundation.or.ug or call +256 (0)393 294 675 / 7.

If you enjoy history, you might like my pictures of Kampala railway station and Nairobi railway station.

Take time to explore these great resources from CCFU. Our children may thank us one day.

Back in the saddle – horseplay at Speke Equestrian Centre

Straight from the horse’s mouth: what’s on at Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo

horse riding Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo, Kampala

I loved being back in the saddle again. The smell of horses is addictive!

Speke Equestrian Centre, Munyonyo for horse riding, hacking, pony rides for children, horse riding lessons, kids’ Pony Camp.

It surprises me how little leisure time Kampala residents spend next to Lake Victoria, when I know how refreshed I feel after just an hour or two by its waters.You can’t beat the feeling of space you have by the lake which is why, if you’re looking for a new hobby or a day out, I highly recommend some time out at Speke Resort, Munyonyo – ideally on a horse at the Equestrian Centre! High on my bucket list of once-in-a-lifetime adventures is doing a multi-day horseback safari. I used to ride when I was a teenager but I know I need to invest in some more riding lessons before I embark on such a big adventure. My recent stay at Speke Resort – and the smell of the horses! – has really whet my appetite for that bigger endeavour.

Speke Equestrian Centre pony camp Kampala

Preparing for a horse riding lesson at Speke Equestrian Centre. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Speke Equestrian Centre pony camp Kampala

Some of the Speke Equestrian Centre’s horses. PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Speke Equestrian Centre horse riding lessons

If you’re just having a pony ride or ‘taster’ riding session, you (and your horse!) will be led by an expert from Speke Equestrian Centre down to the marina. The horses are calm and well-behaved.

Speke Equestrian Centre horse riding lessons Kampala

Prices start from 40k ugx for a 20 minute pony ride. A one-hour hack (for experienced riders) is 70k every day (except Sunday and public holidays when it costs 80k). Rates are slightly higher on Sundays and public holidays. Private or group lessons offer good value for money. Packages of ten lessons are also available. For horse riding enquiries, contact Speke Resort.

In conversation with one of the staff at the Equestrian Centre, he explained that they currently have nine ponies and five large horses suitable for adults. They are expecting to acquire another four horses over the coming months.

In addition to the horses and equestrian facilities, the centre also has a bar where parents and friends can meet for a drink while Little Johnny is learning to ride.

Have you heard about the Kid’s Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre?

PHOTO Speke Resort Munyonyo

Learning how to trot at the monthly Kids’ Pony Camp

The Pony Camp at Speke Equestrian Centre is a two-day event training kids how to ride ponies. Children between the ages of 4 and 17 are invited to enroll for the monthly Pony Camp that’s been taking place at Speke Resort Munyonyo since 2015.

Saturday morning is a riding session. No experience is necessary as children are grouped into beginners, intermediate or advanced riders. In the afternoon, the children go swimming in the resort’s Olympic size pool. On Sunday morning, children are treated to a full breakfast at the resort, followed by a morning ride. Pony Camp finishes at 12.30 with a small prize-giving and Certificates of Participation. There are prizes for the weekend’s best participants: the top two riders get medals, and the third placed rider is awarded a Best Camper Certificate.

Speke's Equestrian Centre provides safety helmets

Speke’s Equestrian Centre provides safety helmets

Pony Camps costs 100,000 Uganda shillings for the two days. This includes an overnight stay at the accommodation block (in separate boys and girls rooms) next to the Equestrian Centre. (Parents who live nearby may wish to take their kids home for the night and bring them back the next morning). The Sunday breakfast is included in the cost. (Parents are expected to cater for the kids’ other meals).

Have you checked out Speke Resort recently?

Not only is it well-equipped for conferences and large meetings, Speke has a range of weekend activities. On Sunday afternoons at Speke Resort from around 3 PM, you can enjoy a DJ and live band, or acrobats and a market for an entry fee of just 5,000 Uganda shillings per person. Friday night is band night at Lake Terrace and complimentary to guests and everyone eating at the restaurant. Saturdays are frequently busy with weddings and wedding parties. Read Olive’s blog #MarryMeAtMunyonyo – Getting Married At Speke Resort, Munyonyo.

The resort’s swimming pool, gym, sauna and steam are a haven for Kampala residents throughout the weekend. Entry is 40,000 ugx for a full day’s swimming (and all-important lounging!)

Why not make a whole weekend of it?

Interior of one of the suites, Speke Resort

Interior of one of the new suites

At the time of writing, Speke Resort’s weekend package is $180 full board (excluding taxes) for two people sharing and includes all the above activities and more: a half hour boat cruise and a 10 minute horse ride for children. Bed and breakfast and room only weekend rates are also available, visit the Speke Resort site for all tariffs.

Speke Resort's marina on Lake Victoria. PHOTO Evelyn Masaba

Speke Resort’s marina on Lake Victoria. PHOTO Evelyn Masaba

Prefer a round of golf? Guests staying at Speke Resort can get a preferential rates at Lake Victoria Serena Hotel’s golf course, a short drive from Munyonyo thanks to the opening of the Entebbe Expressway.

For info on any of the above, call +256 (0)414227111 or (0)417 716000 or email spekeresort@spekeresort.com or reservations@spekeresort.com

And finally, when you visit the resort, perhaps you’ll see me learning how to ride again, practicing for my next big African adventure – on horseback!

Love birds, butterflies and chimps? Then don’t miss Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge

Scroll down to read all about the half-day Sunbird Hill Experience!

Sunbird Hill Research and Monitoring Site in western Uganda is a haven for nature enthusiasts that have ticked off the Big Five and are ready to search for the smaller – yet equally impressive – creatures of Uganda.

Sunbird Hill is ideally situated for anyone planning to track the chimpanzees or the Green-breasted Pitta in Kibale Forest or for general birdwatching around Kibale Forest. It’s also a wonderful location to relax and enjoy the pure forest air and the natural sounds emanating from the forest. I’ve been visiting this fabulous part of Uganda regularly since 2009. One definite plus about visiting Sunbird Hill is having the chance to meet Julia Lloyd, the resident primatologist. If you love chimpanzees, you’ll be amazed at her stories of her many years living and working deep in Kibale Forest.

Derrick Kirungi. bird guide. Sunbird Hill Kibale forest edge
A morning spent birding with the  Sunbird Hill Club on the edge of Kibale Forest with Derrick and Sebastiano
Red-bellied paradise flycatcher on nest, Sunbird Hill
Red-bellied paradise flycatcher incubating eggs on its nest at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin
Green-breasted Pitta. Image courtesy of eGuide to Birds of East Africa
Next on my ‘must photograph bird list’ the Green-breasted Pitta. Image courtesy of eGuide to Birds of East Africa . Click on the bird to download this cool digital bird guide

National and international experts who visit Sunbird Hill on a regular basis include ornithologists, lepidopterists, herpetologists, botanists, entomologists and primatologists. Bird ringing (or banding) occurs periodically throughout the year. Bird ringing in Kibale Forest is one of my all-time favourite blogs. Contact me if you’d like to learn more about the next ringing trips.

What is Sunbird Hill?

Sunbird Hill is situated on 40 acres of private land bordering Kibale Forest. It is just off the Fort Portal – Kamwenge Road, 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre (base for chimpanzee tracking in Kibale National Park) and 3.5 km from KAFRED at Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary.

Julia writes:

We are a British-Ugandan family passionate about wildlife and conservation. Our compound is a traditional open plan dwelling, with grass thatched houses, a treehouse, large elevated research office and a kitchen garden. Guests are welcome to stay in Butterfly Cottage, a brick and wood cottage that stands in its own compound next door to our family compound. For the more adventurous, we have a trio of elevated thatched cottages – with views of Kibale Forest – to house visiting biology experts. These are open to the occasional tourist too.

Sunbird Hill is regenerating farmland. This, and its location on the edge of the forest, means the land has numerous microhabitats that give it a high species richness: plants, insects, amphibians, reptiles and mammals and our main passion: birds. Species lists are constantly being updated, and so far we have recorded 14 of the 38 sunbird species listed for Uganda. The recent visit from ornithologist Roger Skeen has pushed our bird species list above the 240 mark. He was very excited to spot a Lemon Dove. We know there are many more birds yet to be identified at Sunbird Hill (and we challenge all visitors to add to our bird list!) We know that NatureUganda members will definitely add many more ticks to our list. We are proud winners of the 24 hour Big Birding Day four years in a row (category: Outside Protected Areas / Private Site).

Identifying a Sunbird. Sunbird Hill Kibale Forest
Identifying a Sunbird – not always easy, even with the bird guide!

Calls from wild chimpanzees are regularly heard, especially at night and early in the morning when chimps call out to each other from their night nests (making ‘contact calls’ as they are known in the primatological world). These primates are often seen when the fig tree at the end of our garden is laden with fruit; half of the tree’s canopy is in Kibale Forest National Park. Often elephants can be heard breaking trees during their nightly forages whilst the distinct calls of the resident Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl and Black-shouldered Nightjar reveal their identity.

Chimpanzee seen from Sunbird Hill. Kibale Forest, Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Chimpanzee eating figs in the Ficus Mucuso tree on the boundary of Kibale Forest, Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Julia Lloyd chimpanzee primatologist Kibale Forest
Annotated drawings of Kibale Forest’s chimpanzees decorate Julia’s treehouse office. Julia was part of the Jane Goodall Institute and Uganda Wildlife Authority team that habituated the chimps for tourism
Olive-bellied Sunbird. Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. Photo Malcolm Wilson
Expert handling required. This Olive-bellied Sunbird was caught in a mist net at Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge so its biometric data could be recorded before it was ringed and released. Click on the bird to read one of Malcolm Wilson’s trip reports. Photo Malcolm Wilson
Big Birding Day winners 2017. Sunbird Hill, KAFRED Bigodi
In November 2017, the Sunbird Hill Bird Club joined forces with Bigodi to take part in the annual Big Birding Day. The team were thrilled to receive the award for “recording the highest number of bird species outside a protected area in 24 hours”
mist nets Sunbird Hill Kibale
Putting up mist nets on the edge of Kibale Forest. Keen birders are welcome to join one of the expert ringing (or banding) trips

Activities at Sunbird Hill

The Sunbird Hill Experience: explore our nature trails on the edge of Kibale Forest

The Sunbird Hill Experience is an immersive, half-day nature tour led by expert site guides. Kibale Forest edge, western Uganda

The Birders’ Lounge

Philip Briggs, Bradt author. Sunbird Hill Kibale Forest
The Birders’ Lounge is the perfect spot for armchair birding! It is also the meeting point for Sunbird Hill Bird Club. Philip Briggs, author of the Bradt Uganda guidebook joined us for a morning’s birding
Birders' Lounge Sunbird Hill, edge of Kibale Forest
A treasured butterfly identification book is a valuable reference tool in the Birders’ Lounge at Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest
Sunbird Hill, Kibale. butterfly identification
Correct species identification, citizen science and conservation training are key aspects of the Sunbird Hill philosophy. Here one of the site guides from Sunbird Hill peruses a list of butterflies.

The Birders’ Lounge is a large thatched bird-themed shelter that houses our growing reference library and covers topics including: ornithology, mammalogy, primatology, entomology, herpetology, and botany, as well as ecology, conservation and African travel. Comfortable chairs, desks and work benches are surrounded by Ugandan natural history paraphernalia. The garden around the Birders’ Lounge is full of native and naturalised flowering plants carefully selected to nurture a diversity of birds and butterflies – perfect for the armchair nature enthusiast (and those of you with heavy photographic equipment!) Our bird baths, bird hide, butterfly mud puddle and pond just keep pushing our species lists up!

Big Birding Day, Sunbird Hill, Kibale
Young birders get up early to take part in Big Birding Day!

Paths wind through the 40 acres of land that borders Kibale Forest taking you through forest edge, woodland, bushland, grassland, farmland, wetland, and riverine habitats. (Pre-booked) visitors are invited to follow the nature trails with one of our experienced site guides.

Sunbird Hill site bird guides. Big Birding Day team. Birders' Lounge
Sunbird Hill site bird guides and Trainees Ambrose, Derrick, Sebastiano and Dianah were part of the winning Big Birding Day team. Here they had been birding since midnight – just another 18 hours birding to go! Behind them is the Birders’ Lounge

Sunbird Hill was set up to support the local NGO In the Shadow of Chimpanzees. Our concept is that national and international experts train our Sunbird Hill team who in turn train the youth of Kyabakwerere Village in a diversity of wildlife identification and information whilst inspiring conservation. In the Shadow of Chimpanzees is setting up village tourism on a section of the Sunbird Hill land that is dedicated to community use. A butterfly house and gardens, medicinal plant garden, bee hives, and elephant trench have been initiated. And our football pitch is almost ready – you are welcome to join the team for a friendly kick around.

“Silver’s Story: A Walk with an Ex-Poacher” is one of our most popular activities. Silver has gained national recognition for his ex-poacher story. He laid down his weapons to join the Uganda Wildlife Authority as a ranger. Now retired, visitors can spend time with Silver and hear snippets about his expert animal tracking techniques and his main passion: butterflies.

On the Sunbird Hill Experience, one of the trained site guides will point out and provide insightful information on birds, butterflies, moths and plants as well as the occasional primate, reptile and amphibian sighting. What cannot be identified during the walk is photographed and identified at Sunbird Hill’s extensive reference library back at the Birders’ Lounge.

Malcolm Wilson Sunbird Hill Bird Club
Malcolm Wilson discusses bird identification at a ringing session with Sunbird Hill Bird Club. Look how keen everyone is to learn with Malcolm!
Malcolm Wilson ringing - Sunbird Hill Bird Club
Serious stuff! During a ringing session with Sunbird Hill Bird Club, Malcolm Wilson weighs each bird and records the biodata
bird ringing Sunbird Hill Bird Club Kibale Forest edge
A ringing session with Malcolm Wilson at Sunbird Hill Bird Club is always informative. I’ve learned so much from Malcolm, Uganda’s original bird guide trainer and a born teacher

Guests who are staying overnight at Sunbird Hill are welcome to join the Sunbird Hill Bird Club that meets 7.30 a.m. every Wednesday at the Birders’ Lounge. Bird Club includes a morning nature walk before heading back for refreshments, consultation with the reference books and documentation of our findings. As the birds quieten down, the Bird Club morphs into Butterfly Club, an interest that is growing rapidly among local guides.

Double-toothed Barbet, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge
You better watch out for that beak! The Double-toothed Barbet is a feisty chap. This one was caught and released as part of the bird monitoring scheme. Photo Roger Skeen

We live in a truly Ugandan village environment so if you would like to see more of the rural village of Kyabakwerere, a member of our staff will be happy to escort you.

Chimpanzee Tracking (Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park), Bigodi Swamp Walk (Bigodi) and Tooro Cultural Centre (Bigodi) are less than 10 minutes drive from Sunbird Hill.

Accommodation at Sunbird Hill

Butterfly Cottage has breath-taking views over the forest, with the chimps’ favourite – the statuesque fig trees – clearly in view from the large veranda. A spotting scope is available for viewing the birds, monkeys and chimpanzees (although note that seeing chimps  from Sunbird Hill can’t be guaranteed). The cottage has a comfortable double bed (twin beds are also available) with mosquito net, en-suite bathroom with warm shower and flush toilet, fridge, reliable lighting and charging facilities. It has a mezzanine floor where two single mattresses can be added.

Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill
Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill, overlooks Kibale National Park
Kibale Forest view. Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill
Kibale Forest seen from the veranda of Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill
Treehouse, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge
If you enjoy the dawn chorus, you’ll absolutely LOVE waking up in The Treehouse!

Eat in or out at Sunbird Hill

Butterfly Cottage, the three elevated cottages and the Treehouse are available on a ‘bed only’ basis. There is a well-equipped Camp Kitchen available for your use. Alternatively, you can order simple meals at 20,000 ugx per meal, when booked in advance at Sunbird Hill.

We also suggest eating (or getting delivery) from The Bee Hive Bar & Bistro opposite Bigodi Swamp just 3.5 km drive from Sunbird Hill. The Bee Hive has great views over Kibale Forest and has a reasonably priced local and international-style menu and bar (cold beers guaranteed!) The Bee Hive also has satellite TV (and back-up generator) and a pool table. Read more about Diary of a Muzungu’s visits to The Bee Hive here. It’s a great little place!

How much does it cost to visit Sunbird Hill?

Staying at Sunbird Hill is all about having access to The Birders’ Lounge, amazing habitats and the best site guides in western Uganda. This is reflected in the cost of the accommodation.
Butterfly Cottage is $135 per night based on two people sharing. For a fee of $10 each, extra mattresses can be set up in Butterfly Cottage.

The elevated cottages are $100 per night, based on two adults sharing. Add $20 per extra person (each elevated cottage has one double and two single beds). (The construction of the cottage makes it unsuitable for little children). 

The Treehouse – everyone’s childhood dream! – is cosy and self-contained with one double bed and is $100 per night based on 2 people sharing.

The above rates include accommodation, access to the Birders’ Lounge for armchair birding, use of the reference library and bird hide and a walk with our Site Guides. If you stay Tuesday night, participation in Wednesday Morning Bird Club is free of charge.

Wednesday Morning Bird Club Starts 7.30 am and lasts 3 – 5 hours
Overnight guests FREE
The Sunbird Hill Experience accompanied by our site guidesStart time is to suit you
Tourist price$30
Professional bird guidesFREE ENTRY when accompanying paying clients

The Sunbird Hill Experience bird / nature walk fees include tea and coffee and nibbles at the Birders’ Lounge. Cold beers, sodas, local gin tots and snacks are available at extra cost.

Please note: access to the nature trails is strictly only available to people who are accompanied by our site guides and who have booked and paid in advance. Be aware that you are not allowed to enter the National Park from Sunbird Hill.

Discounts are available to members of NatureUganda, NatureKenya, East African Natural History Society, Explorers’ Club, Lepidoptera Club of Africa & African Bird Club. (Proof of membership required). “We want you naturalists here!” Says Julia.

Directions. How to get to Sunbird Hill

Dillon, our youngest site guide, points the way!

Sunbird Hill is 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park and is 3.5 km from The Bee Hive Bar & Bistro in Bigodi off the Fort Portal-Kamwenge Road.

Keep up to date with Sunbird Hill via their Facebook page or WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 to make an enquiry. Booking in advance is essential.

Diary of a Muzungu adds:

Sunbird Hill is a favourite destination of mine. If you love nature and are looking for an authentic experience, in a relaxed homestay environment, this is it. Sunbird Hill isn’t run as a lodge so isn’t for your mainstream tourist. Early mornings are filled with splendid forest birdsong. At night you often hear the PANT HOOTS of chimps from the forest. It’s magical! (And if you’re serious about birding then you can’t miss a trip to this lovely corner of western Uganda).

“Vintage is elegance” – classic cars & fashion at the Kampala Sheraton

In case you missed it! Highlights from the 2017 CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show

Do you love the cars of a bygone era? East Africa has a surprisingly diverse auto collection to show you!

The gardens of the Kampala Sheraton were the perfect location for the recent CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show, now in its sixth year. This fixture is growing year on year, with 76 entries in 2017, thanks to the support of the Sheraton, CBA Bank Africa and a team who travel from Nairobi every year to help with the judging. To qualify to enter, competing cars must be dated 1992, or before. I’m no car expert, but I loved this event!

This year I had a chance to meet Bob Dewar, the Director of the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance, which is held in Nairobi and is now in its 47th year. (I confess I felt a twinge of homesickness when I heard his English accent fill the Sheraton Gardens and couldn’t wait to go over and say hello to him!) Bob has been key to the success of this event, also known as a Concours d’Elegance (concours means competition). He is in Kampala every year to support the Ugandan team and build the crowd’s interest in the cars on display.

Bob Dewar Kampala Sheraton grounds
Pictured left is Bob Dewar. He accompanied the judges as they inspected each vehicle and gave the crowd insights into the history of each car and motorbike

Later in the afternoon, there was a “Vintage is Elegance” themed retro fashion show in the Sheraton Gardens, followed by a live performance by legendary reggae artist Maddox Ssematimba.

mud on white trousers
We were not deterred by the weather, were we? After a few splashes of rain, the grey clouds gave way for sunshine… (Perhaps I should have looked at the weather before I put on white trousers and jumped on a boda boda! Standing behind a motorbike skidding on wet grass was only going to end up one way – in a splattering of mud!)

Who were the winners of this year’s CBA Uganda Vintage and Classic Auto Show?

Ronald Walusimbi’s 1967 Toyota Corona beat Patrick Mweheire’s 1965 Mercedes Benz by just two points. Walusimbi won the 2500 cc touring car class in 2016 with a 1974 Mercedes Benz. He was also the highest placed competitor from Uganda.

Walusumbi’s 1974 Mercedes Benz. Concours d'Elegance
Walusumbi’s 1974 Mercedes Benz will be a star entry in the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance to be held at the Nairobi Racecourse on September 24th. Last year he won the 2500cc touring car class in this machine. He will also take his Toyota Corona

This year’s Uganda winner is one of eight Ugandans who will be contesting the Africa Concours d’Elegance at the Nairobi Racecourse in September for the classiest event on the Kenya motor sport calendar.

CBA Uganda Classic and Vintage Auto Show 2017, Kampala Sheraton
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An event with Kenyan connections and Buganda heritage

A team of nine Kenyan Concours enthusiasts participated in the Uganda event. Stephen Warui, who is a regular competitor in the CBA Africa Concours d’Elegance, was placed sixth overall in his 1959 Volkswagen Beetle. He also won his class.

Stephen Warui. 1959 Volkswagen Beetle. Concours d'Elegance Uganda 2017
Stephen Warui puts the finishing touch to his 1959 Volkswagen Beetle in readiness for judging at the Uganda Vintage and Classic Auto Show in the grounds of the Kampala Sheraton. He took home the prize for the best competitor from outside Uganda
Katikkiro of Buganda congratulates Stephen Warui. Auto Show Kampala 2017
Chief guest Charles Peter Mayiga (left), the Katikkiro (Prime Minister) of the Buganda Kingdom, congratulates Stephen Warui (centre) for winning the prize for the highest placed competitor from outside Uganda. Stephen finished sixth overall.

There’s a strong connection between the Buganda Kingdom and classic cars. The first car in Uganda was a 1906 Albion 16HP engine car, given to Ssekabaka Daudi Chwa (1897-1939) by Sir Hesketh Bell. Kabaka Daudi Chwa owned a fleet of Buicks. Later, Sir Edward Walugembe Mutesa II (1939-1966) owned a number of Rolls Royce cars. One of these is on display at the Uganda Museum.

Next (pit)stop Nairobi!

Leslie Carvell, the overall winner of last year’s Kampala event, is a member of the Uganda contingent who will be taking their cars to the Nairobi Racecourse. She will spend two days driving her 1970 Volkswagen Beetle from Jinja to Nairobi.

Leslie Carvell. All About Uganda in a Beetle
In 2014 Leslie Carvell drove her Beetle the length and breadth of Uganda to raise awareness for the work of the Uganda Conservation Foundation

The Uganda team will have an impressive collection of crowd-pulling cars. This includes the 1983 Nissan 240RS of Bob Roberts and Katende Mukiibi’s 1971 Ford Escort. Another ‘star car’ is the 1957 Mercedes Benz 190SL roadster of Laban Mawanda which will be a strong contender for a prize in the sports car class.

Twelve members of the Uganda Bikers Association (UBA) will be riding their motorcycles from Kampala to Nairobi to have their machines judged by Concours officials.

Where did the Concours d’Elegance idea start?

For the past 47 years, Kenya’s annual Concours has been organised by the Alfa Romeo Owners Club. The event’s aim is to recognise and reward the owners of well-kept cars and motorcycles, ranging from SUV’s and pick-ups to motorcycles.

To ensure high standards of judging, car entries are limited to seventy and motorcycles limited to forty. Just a few places remain on this year’s entry list. Regulations and entry forms are available from the Bob Dewar Publicity office in Kijabe Street, Nairobi. Alternatively, email / call info@bobpr.com +254 (0)20 3316160 / (0)2229793 / (0)733 732032.

A vintage and classic tour of East Africa – and beyond!

The influx of entries from outside Kenya confirms the status of the Concours as a pan-African event.

Three members of the Vintage Motorcycle Club of South Africa – with bikes of course! – are flying to Nairobi from Johannesburg to compete. There is now a classic car club in Dar es Salaam and several members are keenly interested in driving in a convoy to Nairobi to take part in the Concours.

Charlotte Morris Minor
My first car was a Morris Minor – back in the day!

I’m rather spoiled. I have grown up around classic cars, thanks to my dad. Indeed, my first car was a Morris Minor. (I think the idea was that if I had an old motor, I wouldn’t be able to drive too fast!) I had such fun in that car, it oozed character.

If you’re a ‘petrol head’ – or just appreciate a bit of motoring history – put these two East African motoring events in your calendar! 

Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron

Top of the Falls, Murchison Falls National Park

There is an inevitability about the constant flow of the River Nile that I find quite overwhelming.

I find myself imagining the distance this water has travelled. Day and night, night and day, for tens of thousands of years, billions of gallons of water have raced through Murchison Falls en route to the Mediterranean. Kingdoms have risen and fallen, we live, we die, but still the water keeps coming. Imagine if the Nile had a memory: what stories would it tell us!

Aerial view Murchison Falls, Uhuru Falls, Wild Frontiers Uganda
Aerial view of Murchison Falls (to the right) and Uhuru Falls. PHOTO Wild Frontiers Uganda
Murchison Falls. Devil's Cauldron, Wild Frontiers. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
The Devil’s Cauldron is mesmerising! Photo taken looking upriver. Murchison Falls, Uganda. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Diary of a Muzungu. Wild Frontiers. Top of Murchison Falls
The Devil’s Cauldron. Looking downriver. Murchison Falls, Uganda

There are several vantage points at the top of Murchison Falls, arguably the biggest draw to the National Park. To the right of the drop-off point, there is a glimpse upstream of where the River Nile is half a kilometre wide. See the staggering speed of the water, racing towards a gap in the rocks that is just seven metres wide. The water flows ferociously fast. It is breath-taking.

I stand at the edge of this incredible feat of nature, trying – but failing – to comprehend its total and utter awesomeness. Oh, how microscopic and unimportant I feel with my little camera!

Diary of a Muzungu. River Nile. Top of Murchison Falls
Once there was a footbridge crossing the narrowest point of the River Nile. The water speeds through this point ferociously fast
Devil's Cauldron. Top of Murchison Falls
This is my dad 🥰 inspecting the Devil’s Cauldron at the Top of Murchison Falls, Uganda

Thousands of people have taken photographs of the Top of the Falls so I can’t pretend I can improve on others’ incredible shots. The truth is, you cannot possibly capture the essence of Murchison Falls with a camera. You need to visit.

You need to see it with your own eyes.

You need to smell the river, feel its thundering power beneath your feet, listen to its roar, let the spray touch your body…

The water mesmerises me. Its power is so compelling. I feel its draw as I stand by the railings above the Devil’s Cauldron, the point where the River Nile plummets, crashes and explodes down a 43 metre drop.

It’s both exciting and scary.

How small I am. Stand in the wrong place and certain death is instant. I would be swept away in a second; indeed, more than one person has chosen to end their life at Murchison Falls. The river’s huge Nile crocodiles (some measuring an astonishing four or five metres long) are unlikely to mean a body is recovered either. There is a strong link between waterfalls and death in Uganda: certain waterfalls in the south west are historically associated with some macabre practices, like the forced ‘damping’ (dumping or drowning) of young women who were perceived to have broken the strict moral codes of the day.

I record a short video clip. As much as I am recording, I’m watching too, trying to make sense of what I am seeing, struggling to understand it. Although every scene is like every other: ‘water cascades over rock’ / ‘water shoots up into the air’ ad infinitum, it has a life of its own. Amongst the voluminous cascades and torrents are microscopic droplets that dance ghost-like in the air for a second before being consumed into a cloud of mist.

Murchison Falls Devil's Cauldron rainbow
At times, miniature rainbows are visible as sunlight filters through the spray in the Devil’s Cauldron

The water wears many costumes. At once dramatic and imposing, in a split second it is intriguing and dainty. I see magic everywhere.

I suddenly feel a gust of wind. I am safely behind the railing but I feel the wind catch me. Is it blowing me away from the water or pulling me towards it? Is my imagination playing tricks on me? I take a few steps backwards. I’m so lost in watching the movement of the water from the safety of my camera screen that I’m wary of the water tricking me. (See what personality I have given it)? It may only be water but I feel it has a life of its own. It makes me nervous.

The moment is a reminder to put the camera down. You can’t beat the full-frontal vision of Murchison Falls and I cherish the sensation of the river’s spray dancing over my face and bare legs.

The Devil’s Cauldron! Diary of a Muzungu goes to the Top of Murchison Falls with Wild Frontiers from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

“The water level has dropped,” Evelyn tells me. “Before, you would get completely soaked standing here” she says, as we pose for photographs next to the safety rails on the small outcrop of rock above the Devil’s Cauldron. (I wrote this story in 2017 – what devastation the high waters have wrought since!)

Murchison Falls. Top of the Falls with Wild Frontiers. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Top of Murchison Falls with Evelyn and Joan from Wild Frontiers Entebbe office. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga

Sadly, we don’t have time today to walk down to the Bottom of Murchison Falls. It’s a steep walk, on a decent path with handrails and, if you plan it well, you can catch a boat from the bottom. It is only by taking this path that you have the imposing sight of both Murchison Falls (once known as Kabalega Falls) and the lesser-known Uhuru Falls.

View of Murchison Falls and Uhuru Falls, Uganda
View of Murchison Falls and Uhuru Falls, Uganda. You have to take the walk to / from the Bottom of the Falls to appreciate this incredible sight

Tip: take the time to do this excellent walk, for if you do, you will have one photo of Murchison Falls that your friends don’t!

A bit of history

Originally the falls were known as Kabalega Falls. Indeed, some Ugandans continue to refer to the indigenous name. However, explorer Sir Samuel Baker renamed Murchison Falls after Sir Roderick Murchison, president of the Royal Geographical Society. (He also renamed Lake Mwitanzige to Lake Albert, in honour of Queen Victoria’s ‘consort’ Albert). The Sir Samuel and Lady Florence Baker Historical Trail runs 805 km (500 km) through the African bush, and recalls the 1864 route they took from South Sudan into Murchison Falls National Park. The Trail features on National Geographic’s World’s Best Hikes: 20 Dream Trails.

The muzungu’s Murchison Falls travel tips

I travelled to Murchison Falls with Wild Frontiers Uganda and stayed at the superb Baker’s Lodge, on the southern bank of the river, in a luxury thatched safari suite looking straight onto the Nile. We ate every scrumptious meal outside and I even had a dip in the swimming pool. (No extra charge for the soothing sound of hippos munching outside your cottage as you fall asleep!) DISCLAIMER: sadly the Nile has completely consumed this gorgeous lodge!

Diary of a Muzungu. Baker's Lodge. Murchison Falls
Breakfast on the deck, underneath the Sausage Tree! Diary of a Muzungu chills out at Baker’s Lodge. Murchison Falls National Park

Watch out for the crocodiles & hippos! (Very amateur film) of the boat ride to the Bottom of Murchison Falls from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

The scum on the surface of the river water is created by the turbulent Falls and is composed of organic matter (rotting fish and hippo, to be exact!)

The walk from the Top to the Bottom of the Falls (and back up) costs and takes one to 1 to 1 ½ hours. It costs $10 / $10 / 10,000 UGX (tourists / foreign residents / EAC citizens) according to the Uganda Wildlife Authority’ tariff for 2022.

Murchison Falls seen from Wild Frontiers boat
Murchison Falls seen from one of the Wild Frontiers Uganda boats

Wild Frontiers and Uganda Wildlife Authority both run boat trips up and down the River Nile. I took the Wild Frontiers boat cruise to the Bottom of the Falls “possibly the world’s most powerful waterfall in terms of the force of water ejected from the Falls itself.”

Top of Murchison Falls. View downriver towards the ferry crossing and the Delta. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga
Top of Murchison Falls. View downriver towards the ferry crossing and the Delta. PHOTO Allan Ssenyonga

Another superb experience in Murchison Falls is the Delta cruise with Wild Frontiers’ excellent guides Milton and Dan. On our trip, they located not one but three rare Shoebills!

Shoebill, River Nile Delta, Murchison Falls. Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga
Shoebill, River Nile Delta, Murchison Falls. Wild Frontiers. Photo Allan Ssenyonga

[Click here to learn about the horrendous plan to dam Murchison Falls!]

Wild Frontiers are the only company to offer a private Bush Breakfast on the northern bank of the Nile. The best way to experience this is by first taking the early morning Delta cruise. After breakfast, you can circle back to your lodge via a game drive through the park. The Muzungu has enjoyed 😊

Have you been on safari in Murchison Falls National Park?

On the right track: my first Ugandan train ride

Rift Valley Railways relaunches Kampala passenger train service after 20 year break

UPDATE 2021: are you looking for information about the Kampala commuter train? Then scroll down. This blog is all about my experience when the train relaunched in 2015. The latest timetables are further down this post.

Rift Valley Railways view from the Kampala train
Early morning view from the Rift Valley Railways Kampala passenger train – a moment of joy … ! As we rounded the corner, we could glimpse the train curve ahead of us. It curved behind us too, in the shape of a big smile 🙂

Another first this week: my first Ugandan train journey on the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train! My first African train journey, in fact!

I was very excited to hear that Rift Valley Railways, Uganda Railways Corporation (URC) and KCCA (Kampala City Council Authority) relaunched the Kampala passenger train service this week. We frequently hear the rumble of the train in the distance, but the service is confined to shunting freight from the dock at Port Bell on Lake Victoria up to Kampala’s industrial area. The train goes backwards and forwards across this short section of track a few times a week, delivering containers of imported goods via Mombasa and ‘outside countries’ beyond East Africa. The relaunch of the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train service for passenger travel marks a new beginning for the railway in Uganda. I couldn’t wait to experience it for myself.

Uganda Railways Corporation train ticket. Rift Valley Railways Kampala train
The Muzungu is the proud owner of her first Uganda Railways Corporation ticket. Thanks @KCCAUG and @KCCAED for a cheap and scenic train ride

And so 7 o’clock Tuesday morning – day 2 of the train service – I jumped on a boda boda and headed down to Kampala Railway Station, a neat colonial-type construction below Kampala Road.

Awesome Aussie journo and friend Amy Fallon was on the station platform, taking photos and looking for passengers to interview. 100 passengers had taken the 6.30 am train from Namanve to Kampala that morning but on our train (7.30 am Kampala to Namanve, heading out of the city) there were just two Bazungu writers / bloggers and a group of Uganda Railways Corporation staff. I guess we were traveling against the commuter tide, so to speak…

Rift Valley Railways Kampala train platform
View from the Kampala Station booking office onto the train and one of the platforms
Rift Valley Railways Kampala train platform
Amy and I were the only two paying passengers on the 7.30 am Kampala to Namanve train, so we were well looked after! Thanks to Steven from Uganda Railways Corporation who helped us on the train

The staff were happy to see us and explained that each of the five carriages can take up to 200 passengers and that they expect 50% capacity by the end of this week. (Not sure whether they achieved it? But I can imagine the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train service will quickly become popular). The train staff helped us get on the train (it’s a steep climb up some vertical metal steps), and told us not to lean out of the window, for fear of hitting an overhanging branch (or something!) Either way, catching the train has to be safer than getting a boda boda or matatu taxi. The train trundled along quite slowly.

I love trains, I always have, I can’t help but get excited when I hear the whistle and the train slowly leaves the station.

Rift Valley Railways train pulling out of Kampala Railway Station – day 2 of the new passenger service from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu.

Rift Valley Railways train Kampala from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu.

Rift Valley Railways Kampala passenger train journey
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Living next to the railway was a big part of the enjoyment of living in Namuwongo. As the train advanced down the track, the train would let out a long whistle, scattering folk who were selling their wares along the track! The ground would shudder as the passed just two metres from our compound wall.

“I saw the face of the train!” Our housegirl Eva shouted excitedly one day. (I guess that means it nearly ran her over!) The train had approached her front (face) on.

I was lucky enough to get the inside view of Kampala railway station last year, when it was open to the public (briefly) for the first time since 1984, thanks to some lobbying by Umeme and KCCA.

This was for the launch of the KLA ART Festival, boda boda recycled art display and gallery show. I miss European architecture, so it was a treat to access this building. Kampala Railway Station really is a treasure of a building, and I hope the original features continue to be maintained (and preserved) to the same standard. All credit to Rift Valley Railways for not letting this building fall apart through neglect, as so easily can happen. It’s an interesting snapshot of another era.

Rift Valley Railways Kampala train station interior
Interior of the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train station, with all its original features. Let’s hope the historical features are preserved. Tourists would love to visit this place and hear its history
Platform ticket machine at Kampala Railway Station
Interior of the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train station – part of the KLA ART 014 Festival Exhibition Space
Ticket office, Rift Valley Railways Kampala train station
Ticket office, interior of the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train station
KLA ART 014 Exhibition, Rift Valley Railways Kampala train station
Kampala Railway Station was the brilliant venue for the KLA ART 014 Festival Exhibition. Here we were, queuing to get into the launch event

Our live updates from the Rift Valley Railways Kampala train went down a storm on social media; everyone seemed to have lots of questions about the train price, journey times, number of stops, age of the train, nationality of the train driver! Of course some people expect something for nothing, and one man was shocked at the ‘high price of’ the 1,500 UGX (Uganda shillings) for a ticket. Frankly that’s a total bargain if you can avoid sitting in a traffic jam… Amy and I asked around and it’s pretty impossible to get into central Kampala for less than that by any other means. (1500 UGX is around 50 US cents at the time of writing this in 2015).

Amy Fallon Kampala passenger train
How to look cool on a train: a classical pose from Amy on the Kampala to Namanve passenger train

For our virgin Ugandan train ride, Amy brought a bottle of champagne. “Orient Express” – eat your heart out! Our excitement, the great photo opportunities and waving at passers-by, meant our journey quickly passed before we even had time to think about breakfast or Champers…!

Butler on the Orient Express
Train travel makes Europeans like me nostalgic. I wish I had experienced travel on the Orient Express, which was the epitome of luxury travel in the 1920s. The classic Orient Express route started in 1883 and ran from Paris to Istanbul. PHOTO Simon Pielow

It shows how long it is since the train service ran: one Diary of a Muzungu Facebook fan, keen to try the service for himself, asked me where the station is. “Er…. in Station Road!” I replied. (The guy is probably in his 20s. The station has rarely been open to passengers during his lifetime, so how would he know anything about the railway station?) Apparently the passenger train last ran 20 years ago.

Older Kampala residents passed on illuminating comments about the railway’s history. Vali told me how he used to catch the train to boarding school in Nairobi from Kampala railway station, back in the day. Eric told me that he used to go to school along Old Port Bell Road. “The train was always punctual. When it departed Kampala railway station, it let out a whistle. We always knew that the whistle signalled school break time!” You may imagine yourself back in Kampala of the 1950s if you visit Malcolm McCrow’s East African railway photos and anecdotes.

CHOO-CHOO! Train coming through!

I’m sure the passenger train service will be a big hit with a lot of people, although capacity of 4,000 UGX is not a lot. Several of my Facebook Fans plan to take the trip, and I highly recommend it, simply to see another side of Kampala. Have you ever seen the workings of one of Kampala’s abattoirs? It’s a different world out there!

Diary of a Muzungu passenger train Namanve
See how happy that short train journey made me? (Ignore squinting into early morning sun!) Diary of a Muzungu reluctantly gets off the passenger train at Namanve, the end of the line, for now… PHOTO by Amy Fallon

UPDATE 2021: The Kampala commuter train service is now run by Uganda Railways Corporation. The passenger train takes four trips every weekday between Namanve and central Kampala. The 45-minute journey stops at Nakawa (MUBS), Spedag (zone 4), Kireka, Namboole and Namanve. The first train of the day leaves Namanve at 7 am. It arrives at Kampala main station at 7.45 am. In the evening, trains depart from Kampala main station at 5.30 pm and 7.50 pm. I could not see pricing information on the URC website but I don’t think it has changed significantly from the 1,500 UGX (one way) price we paid in 2015.

So what’s next for the railways in Uganda and East Africa?

The Rift Valley Railways Kampala train passenger service from Kampala to Namanve was a one-year pilot project. UPDATE 2021: The service is a success and is still running.

More interestingly, work has started on the development of the Standard Gauge Railway across East Africa. This article looks at the differences between the original railway line and the planned new one. Substantial investment is being made into Uganda’s infrastructure, from the Kenyan border to the border with Rwanda; up to South Sudan in the north and down south to Tanzania. The rationale for the project is to make it quicker and cheaper to move goods from Mombasa inland through the East African community. Apparently, rail will quarter the costs of transport, half the time it takes to move the goods, and make the roads safer for the rest of us. Many of Uganda’s roads have been developed over the last few years but the daily transit of thundering heavy goods vehicles quickly destroys them again.

Uganda Railways Corporation is also rehabilitating railway track between Kampala and Port Bell, and Tororo and Gulu.

On a personal level, the Muzungu’s next African train journey simply had to be the Nairobi to Mombasa overnight train with complimentary safari en route through Tsavo National Park. The history of the East African railway and the so-called ‘Lunatic Express’ is captivating (yet terrible in parts).

Railway view Lunatic Express Nairobi Mombasa
View from the so-called Lunatic Express. En route from Nairobi to Mombasa
Lunatic-Express-Nairobi-Railway-Station-sign
Picture this! Nairobi railway station has all the original fittings. It’s a fascinating glimpse back in time

My short journey from Kampala railway station started my research into the history of East Africa’s development. I confess, I have become a total train geek! It’s incredible to think that Nairobi and modern Kenya all started through the development of the railway. The whole Lunatic Express journey was fascinating from start to finish: the old-fashioned train compartments, the impromptu safari, the history of East Africa, and so much more. The Nairobi to Mombasa train is notorious for breaking down in the middle of nowhere… (but then the Muzungu was marooned in the middle of Lake Victoria on the ill-fated MV Templar for a whole night this week…) so anything is possible when she travels! In fact you may recall this cross-border travel misadventure.

Have you travelled by train in East Africa? Share your experiences here (and don’t forget to sign up for Diary of a Muzungu’s free newsletter!)

An invitation to Masaka: the Uganda International Marathon!

Uganda International Marathon Masaka – Are you interested in running through the beautiful Masaka countryside?

As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers will know, I’m a regular runner with Kampala Hash House Harriers (more for socialising than the running!) In fact, no way am I a good runner – but Hashing has helped me explore Kampala, Jinja, Nairobi, Kigali, and – just last weekend – Addis Ababa.

Kampala Hash House Harriers

Hashing “the drinking club with a running problem”runs every Monday at 6 pm – Red Dress Run for the Valentine’s Hash, Kampala

But move over Muzungu, Uganda has some awesome running talent: Ugandan long-distance runner Stephen Kiprotich is the reigning World and Olympic marathon champion, having won gold at both the 2012 London Summer Olympics and the 2013 World Championships in Athletics.

Uganda International Marathon Masaka logo

Uganda International Marathon Masaka logo

Whether you’re a serious Marathon runner, or just fancy exploring somewhere new for the weekend, the Uganda International Marathon in Masaka may be just what you’re looking for!

Lizzie, from the  Uganda International Marathon organising committee writes:

Having already gained support from mainstream media in the UK, the Uganda International Marathon hopes to engage visiting British runners with this beautiful country and simultaneously raise funds for NGOs who work to support the most vulnerable within it.

The inaugural Uganda International Marathon is being held on 24th May 2015. The event will see 100 International runners join 800 Ugandan nationals and expats to run a beautiful course through the rural villages and farmland of Masaka, three hours drive west of the capital of Kampala.

The Uganda International Marathon offers full (42km), half (21km) or 10km routes and participants receive a race number, medal, headscarf and water around the whole course. After the race there will be a party in Masaka’s Liberation Square, open to all, with food and drinks available as well as music and dancing. The brilliant Weaverbird Arts and Sculpture camp will play host to the Athletes Village.

Masaka Marathon Uganda. runners

Uganda International Marathon Masaka runners

Our International runners are using the Marathon as a chance to fundraise, an option we strongly encourage expat and local entrants to do too. All money raised will be split between the local community and a charity or cause of your choice, anywhere in the world. This allows people to not only contribute to the local community of Masaka that will be welcoming them, but also to contribute to a cause that’s already close to their heart.

The team behind the Marathon include CHEDRA, an NGO based in Masaka, and several Londoners who have all come together to create the race, which will hopefully become an annual feature in the region.

UK news coverage of Uganda International Marathon Masaka international runners

UK news coverage of Uganda International Marathon Masaka international runners

We hope you can join us for the inaugural Uganda International Marathon, which promises to be ‘a race like no other’.

To register for the Uganda International Marathon, expats and foreign volunteers should buy tickets online here. For details on where / how Ugandan nationals can register (Kampala / Masaka or via Mobile Money) go to my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page.

View from Weaverbird Arts and Sculpture camp, Masaka, host to the Uganda Marathon's Athletes Village

View from Weaverbird Arts and Sculpture camp, Masaka, host to the Uganda Marathon’s Athletes Village

Hope to see you all in Masaka!

If you have any friends who you think would be interested in this event, please send them this link and follow the updates on Twitter and Facebook.

Update August 2015: the event was a success and is planned again for 2016! Check out the Uganda International Marathon web site.

Update June 2016: last minute registration! Special price for Ugandans is just 10k UGX per person. Check my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page for info.

High wire hijinks – are you up for a Lakeside Adventure?

High wire fun at Lakeside Adventure Park

Lakeside Adventure Park is unique: there is nowhere quite like it in Uganda. The park offers state-of-the-art adventure and climbing activities, with a highly professional support team in a peaceful setting next to the lake. It’s brilliant fun too – as Kampala House Harriers were to discover …

high wire fun Lakeside Adventure Park day out Kampala

Flying Hashers! High wire fun at Lakeside Adventure Park, a great day out from Kampala

Activities available at Lakeside Adventure Park include an assault course, crate-building exercise for team building fun, high wire – rope course – activities on two different levels, volleyball on the beach and Uganda’s highest climbing wall. It’s perfect for a day out from Kampala. It caters very well for groups.

Recently, twenty of us took the Lakeside Adventure Park boat across from Ggaba. The boat can take you directly from Ggaba’s KK Beach to Lakeside (45 minute boat journey). We opted to take the shorter boat crossing to Bole, from Beach House Event Gardens (a nice little local bar behind Ggaba).

Lakeside Adventure Park boat ride from Ggaba Kampala

Twenty Hash House Harriers jumped on the boat from Ggaba.’Nagawa’s Birthday Hash’ was sponsored by Diary of a Muzungu

We then jumped on boda bodas for a ten minute journey through the Bush to Lakeside. Either way, it’s a very easy journey to Lakeside. (You can even drive there via Mukono)). Once you’re over on the other side, you feel like you’re on an island – you can hardly imagine Kampala is so close.

getting the boda from Bole to Lakeside Adventure Park

On a boda boda from Bole to Lakeside Adventure Park – just one of the ways to get there

After a quick look around Lakeside’s facilities, it was time for our reason for being there: the Hash run! What a beautiful part of the world. Ahhhh… I feel so relaxed just remembering the place. I don’t remember passing even one car on our hour-long run. Even boda bodas are few and far between.

There was one very important boda boda on our run, of course: the one carrying the beer for the three beer stops! My favourite beer stop: guess who was waiting for Nagawa? Up in the trees were three Nkima! (Red-tailed Monkeys – the totem for the Nkima clan that Nagawa belongs to).

Me and my totem, as drawn by the artist Taga

The Muzungu Nagawa and Nkima, the Red Tailed Monkey. Me and my totem, as painted by the artist Taga www.mytotem.co.ug

I enjoyed my moments watching the monkeys while I waited for the (FRBs) Front Running Bastards to appear from the bushes…

boda boda Lakeside Adventure Park day out

I was quite happy when Kenyan Hasher ‘Golddigga’ took my place on the beer-stop boda – it wasn’t the comfiest of rides!

Boda driver + de Muzungu + beer crate on one boda boda driving over bumpy marram tracks isn’t the most comfortable ride. I was quite happy when Kenyan Hasher ‘Golddigga’ decided that her injured leg needed a rest and she took my place on the beer-stop boda.

Back at Lakeside Adventure Park, the ‘high wire’ ropes course activity operates on two levels.

Our instructor was JB. Feet still firmly on the ground, JB instructed everyone on how to use the safety equipment. No time for fooling around; everyone had to listen in carefully. The health and safety briefing is very important. Used properly, everyone was safe using the equipment. Spectators aren’t allowed to stand underneath any of the high wire activities, either. It was very tempting to stand right underneath someone to take a photo, but I resisted. I didn’t want JB to shout at me!

safety briefing Lakeside Adventure Park day out Kampala

Unusually attentive Hashers! JB gave everyone a a good safety briefing

The high wire activities combine ropes and pulleys, climbing walls, sections that you sit on and navigate using your upper body. It requires coordination, balance and concentration.

Lakeside Adventure Park day out Kampala

Taking a break between sections of the high wire ropes course at Lakeside Adventure Park

Some of the Hashers opted to continue to the second higher level. The whole activity is quite intense. After a few initial giggles, everyone quietened down. I could sense how people were concentrating.

Lakeside Adventure Park day out Kampala

Machinery hauls himself across a section of the ropes course

Only a couple of people managed the last section; to concentrate hard and maintain that muscle control for a whole hour has to be very demanding. (Note: de Muzungu was too busy taking photos – and recovering from the night before’s birthday celebrations  – to participate!)

Imagine organising your colleagues into two teams and racing each other over an assault course? This is what we did on Sunday morning.

We cheered each other on as we scrambled over wooden poles, jumped, climbed, run, swung and raced on our hands and knees over, under and around various wooden obstacles. Brilliant!

Check out more photos of the Lakeside Adventure Park week-end on the Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page.

 

assault course Lakeside Adventure Park day out Kampala

Assault course at Lakeside Adventure Park. Note de Muzungu‘s full concentration!

As a last bit of fun to end the day, JB split us up into teams and gave us a scenario in which we had to build a temporary shelter from the rain. He gave us 15 minutes.

Fourteen minutes later, feeling proud of our tipi tent of branches and leaves, our team of five sat inside it.

“But will it be rainproof?” He asked us. “Yeah, yeah”” we all shouted, confidently.

“Are you sure?”

A bucket of water appeared from nowhere, permeating the branches and soaking everyone in our shelter.

“Okay, JB, you win!” We laughed, jumping up from the ground.

corporate team building at Lakeside Adventure Park Uganda

Clare and I outside our hastily built tipi – before we had the bucket of water chucked at us!

A lot of fun and just one of the teambuilding exercises put together for corporates, schools or just a private party like ours.

We had a brilliant time at Lakeside Adventure Park, from start to finish. The booking process was easy and the team made sure we had everything we wanted. Twenty is quite a small group number; Lakeside can accommodate 55 people (or a few more, with tents) and is a popular venue for corporate and teambuilding events. The whole facility is very well organized. A new kitchen and conference room are being constructed as I write. The dormitory accommodation is excellent. There are two big modern dormitories, one male and one female, each with their own hot showers and toilets. Everyone in our group said what a fantastic time they had.

You don’t actually have to be fit for a lot of these activities, you just have to be up for an adventure! Don’t be too concerned if people laugh at your expense. You will soon be laughing at them too!

For more information, visit Lakeside Adventure Park’s website or contact the Muzungu. We can’t wait to revisit  next year. So many Hashers are complaining that they missed out on this unique weekend – let’s hope Lakeside will have us again!

Operation Shoebill: Uganda’s Big Birding Day 24-hour race

Operation Shoebill: first-hand experience of Uganda’s Big Birding Day annual 24 hour bird race at Mabamba Bay

So why precisely have I got up well before dawn – on a Saturday – to drive for three hours in a cramped minibus to sit in an old boat?

Shoebill Stork in flight. PHOTO Ronan Donovan and Wild Frontiers Uganda www.wildfrontiers.co.ug
Reason enough to get up very early indeed on a Saturday – what a bird: the Shoebill. Big Birding Day Uganda. PHOTO Ronan Donovan and Wild Frontiers Uganda www.wildfrontiers.co.ug

It’s that time of year again: Uganda’s annual Big Birding Day, a 24-hour contest in which birders compete to see who can rack up the score for the highest number of bird species. The early bird catches the worm… or so they say. (This silly early bird didn’t even remember to catch breakfast, and now I’m sitting hungry in the middle of a huge swamp, miles from anywhere … oh damn you and your insatiable Muzungu appetite for cappuccino…)

On the shores of Lake Victoria about 50 km west of Kampala lie the vast swamps of Mabamba, one of Uganda’s few remaining swamps that are protected by the local communities.

Classified as an Important Bird Area, Mabamba Bay is home to Uganda’s most famous bird: the iconic Shoebill.

Mabamba Bay Swamp boat. Uganda’s Big Birding Day
Operation Shoebill: first-hand experience of Uganda’s Big Birding Day 24 hour race at Mabamba Bay. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin

Would our Big Birding Day team get lucky and see a Shoebill at Mabamba Bay?

A couple of rickety-looking boats greet us on the edge of Mabamba Swamp. With giggles of excitement, the team’s boats head off into the Papyrus.

Pair of Grey Crowned Cranes. Big Birding Day. PHOTO Kaj Ostergaard
Pair of Grey Crowned Cranes. Uganda’s Big Birding Day 24 hour race

A pair of Grey Crowned Cranes (referred to locally in Uganda as Crested Cranes) fly overhead. It’s like a statement:  you have officially landed in Uganda’s wetlands. The fabulous Crested Crane adorns Uganda’s national coat of arms and makes its home in the wetlands (or what is left of them).

Our boats are surrounded by vibrant green, dotted with shimmering, purple water lilies, the cool morning mist rising from the crystal-clear waters.

A vibrant blue and orange Malachite Kingfisher poses delicately on a Papyrus stem as our boat pushes through the vegetation.

I spot a Northern Brown-throated Weaver (pale brown with an orange beak) at the base of some reeds. (I can’t say I know exactly what it is, but I’m the first to spot it! You don’t need to be an expert to take part in Big Birding Day; just quickly point out the moving blocks of colour to your more knowledgeable teammates).

The narrow waterways cutting through the swamp allow one, maximum two, narrow boats to pass. Travelling in a low-lying boat means you are at eye-level with so many of the birds at the water’s edge. It’s magic.

Purple Waterlillies. Big Birding Day. PHOTO Kaj Ostergaard
Purple Waterlillies contrast beautifully with the abundant lush greenery of the swamp. Uganda’s Big Birding Day. PHOTO Kaj Ostergaard

The narrow labyrinth of channels opens out into a wide freshwater lagoon.

We spot a Yellow-billed Duck in flight, a Squacco Heron amongst the reeds, and several Long-toed Lapwings, just a number of the iconic wetland birds you can see at Mabamba.

As our Shoebill comes into sight, everyone in the boat stands up (precariously tipping the boat to one side of course!)

Shoebill Stork, Mabamba Swamp. Big Birding Day. PHOTO Nick Sausen
Shoebill Stork, Mabamba Swamp. Big Birding Day. PHOTO Nick Sausen

The dark grey, funny-looking character stands an impressive five feet tall and stares back at us. A cross between a Stork and a Pelican, this prehistoric-looking bird dines on a menu of lungfish and frogs. Oh yum! (Mabamba is one of many places in Uganda you can see the Shoebill, but arguably the most accessible since it’s a short hop from Entebbe or Kampala. The excellent, mid-range Nkima Forest Lodge is just a few minutes from Mabamba Bay).

A pair of magnificent Blue-breasted Bee-eaters entertain us, while the Shoebill looks on, seriously, just ten or so metres from our boat. The Shoebill moves his head from side to side as our Mabamba guide educates us about this fascinating bird. There are just two or three pairs of Shoebills breeding in Mabamba, all under the watchful eye of the local community.

We look in vain for the Lesser Jacana, to the disappointment of our guide, who has a mental checklist of the birds he has hoped to record for Big Birding Day. Mabamba birds we do spot include Pink-backed Pelican, Saddle-billed Stork, African Fish Eagle, Purple Swamphen, Giant Kingfisher, Swamp Flycatcher and Weynn’s Weaver.

Pied Kingfisher Mabamba Swamp. Big Birding Day.
Pied Kingfisher poses on Papyrus, Mabamba Swamp. Big Birding Day

There is no protection from the sun when you are out on the open water. Cue: return to land, for a soda and a chapatti from the local snack stall. Refreshed, and with the Big Birding Day clock ticking, the competitive streak kicks in and the Big Birding Day team marches uphill towards some tall trees. En route we add a Fan-tailed Widowbird to our list.

Leaving Mabamba is a series of smaller Papyrus Swamps where we see locally occurring ‘endemic species’ such as the striking Papyrus Gonolek, White-winged Warbler and Carruther’s Cisticcola.

Uganda – ‘the birding mecca’ of Africa

Our tiny country is home to over 1000 bird species, almost 50% of Africa’s bird species. In addition to the 1000+ resident species, millions of birds migrate across Ugandan skies en route to summer alternately in South Africa and Europe.

Every year families, conservationists and the tourism industry come together to celebrate Uganda’s Big Birding Day, a series of fun conservation events celebrating birds. Young or old, an amateur or a professional ‘twitcher,’ Big Birding Day has something for everyone.

With a score of 114 species identified by the end of Big Birding Day 2013, our Mabamba team ranked a decent 9th out of 73 teams participating nationwide.

Big Birding Day
Be part of something BIG – Big Birding Day Uganda: a 24 hour birding contest across the country

How can you take part in Big Birding Day?

Expert bird guides from NatureUganda, Uganda Wildlife Authority staff and Uganda Bird Guides Club lead participants in the main event, a 24-hour bird watching contest. Big Birding Day includes free guided nature walks at dozens of sites across Uganda. Uganda Wildlife Authority provide free entry to the country’s National Parks, Wildlife and Forest Reserves on Big Birding Day (provided you register in advance).

Uganda’s Big Birding Day takes place every November. Registration is through Nature Uganda email bbd@natureuganda.org Twitter @NatureUganda and Facebook www.facebook.com/NatureUganda.

I can’t be on the winning Big Birding Day team every year – or can I? 😉

KLA ART 014 – “Unmapped” – Kampala Contemporary Art Festival

“Unmapped” – Who are the unheard voices of our cities? KLA ART 014, Kampala Contemporary Art Festival

KLA ART 014 Kampala Railway Station Exhibition. cow on a boda boda

Now you’ve seen it all! ‘Cow on a boda boda’ on display at the launch of KLA ART 014 at Kampala Railway Station

This year Kampala residents are being treated to a wide range of original African art: August’s Kampala Art Biennale has been a highlight of 2014, and KLA ART 014, Kampala Contemporary Art Festival, this October is set to be equally enlightening.

Kampala Contemporary Art Festival KLA ART 014 official poster

Kampala Contemporary Art Festival KLA ART 014 official poster

 

Two years ago, my friend Robert announced that, rather than come drink beer with yours truly, he planned to give up his Saturday to visit some old shipping container in downtown Namuwongo. (The Muzungu has been stood up for less I suppose, but I digress…)

In fact, Robert was taking part in the inaugural KLA ART event, in which a number of old shipping containers were converted into art installations. It was their placement in and around various Kampala ‘no go areas’ that really caught my attention: here was art physically ‘going to the people’.

Inviting someone to a gallery is in a sense ‘preaching to the converted.’ A gallery visitor is someone who already ‘gets’ art, already appreciates art, who perhaps even already creates art.

A contemporary art festival, such as KLA ART 014, takes art to the next level: inviting Ugandans to think and talk about art, to express themselves through art – something they may have never done before.

Helen Nabukenya at press launch for KLA ART 014 Kampala Contemporary Art Festival

Participating Ugandan artist Helen Nabukenya at press launch for KLA ART 014 Kampala Contemporary Art Festival

KLA ART 014 is Kampala’s contemporary art festival.

Throughout the month of October, the festival is unveiling new artworks from 30 artists from Uganda, Ethiopia, Tanzania, Kenya, Congo and Rwanda, asking the question:

‘Who are the unheard voices of our cities?’

According to Violet Nantume, Curatorial Committee, KLA ART 014:

“The bicycle knife sharpener; the express fashion designer; the mobile nail salon: they fill every corner of the city. ‘Unmapped’ will attempt to artistically showcase how people from every stratum of society adapt creatively to survive.”

Have you ever been inside Kampala Railway Station? Now’s your chance!

Thanks to KLA ART, Rift Valley Railways, KCCA and Umeme, Kampala Railway Station is open to the public for first time since 1994.

This free-to-attend Festival Exhibition features ten artists displaying their interpretation of Kampala’s “Unmapped.” (The Muzungu admitted to being very keen to have a nose around this iconic Kampala landmark and was delighted to be invited to the VIP preview).

At Kampala Railway Station the public has a chance to meet and discuss the artworks with the artists themselves.

Selected artists work on a variety of media, from paintings to sculpture, and fabrics to music.

KLA ART 014 Kampala Station Exhibition entrance

Unusually, many VIP guests arrived before the 6 pm opening time – so keen were we all to be the first inside Kampala Railway Station!

 

KLA ART 014 Kampala Station Exhibition ticket hall

Thanks to KLA ART, Rift Valley Railways, KCCA and Umeme, Kampala Railway Station is open to the public for first time since 1994

Back in the heyday of the 1950s and 1960s day, regular Mail Trains ran from Kampala to Nairobi, as Malcolm McCrow’s wonderful old photos show.

KLA ART 014 Kampala Station Exhibition  ticket office

Kampala Railway Station is open to the public for first time since 1994. All the original features are in place

KLA ART 014 Kampala Station Exhibition main hall

A brilliant exhibition space! KLA ART 014 Kampala Railway Station Exhibition main hall

Rocca Gutteridge, Project Director, KLA ART 014 says “KLA ART 014 offers a platform to showcase new and emerging ideas by contemporary Ugandan artists.  KLA ART is a two-year process of thought, production and experimentation resulting in a unique festival, which directly links artists, artworks and audiences.”

The Boda Boda Project

At the VIP launch, we had a chance to meet the artists behind the Boda Boda Project who have transformed 20 boda boda (motorbikes) into public artworks. The Boda Boda project is all about giving Ugandans access to contemporary art and these 20 bodas will be ‘mapping’ the streets of Kampala throughout October, driving north, south, east and west to engage with the community and chat about contemporary art.

Cow on a boda boda. KLA ART 014. Kampala Railway. artist Grace Sarah

‘Cow on a boda boda’ – a statement on the mistreatment of transporting animals – on display at the launch of KLA ART 014 at Kampala Railway Station. Creation of artist Grace Sarah (pictured) with inquisitive soldier!

KLA ART 014 Kampala Railway Station Exhibition, boda boda project

How would Uganda manage without boda boda transport?

Reagan Kandole watering plants in recycled boots

Reagan Kandole, from the Waste Management Education Project, WaMeP, watering the plants growing in the recycled boots decorating his boda boda. Every item on his boda boda had a purpose – I love it!

Kampala Railway Station. artist discusses Boda Boda Project

Kampala Railway Station is such an inspiring venue for the exhibition – here an artist discusses his work on the Boda Boda Project

 

The KLA ART artists and their boda boda creations are creating temporary exhibitions in a variety of locations across the capital. An interactive recording studio and a travelling cinema are just two of the innovations that will be touring the streets of Kampala on boda bodas.

I can’t wait to see how the streets of Kampala are transformed by this mobile exhibition!

I wonder too what the first-time art visitor will make of some of the ‘weird and wonderful’ boda boda creations on display?

KLA ART comes at a time when Ugandans have been discussing this year’s census: when people have been asking themselves quite a fundamental question: “if I don’t register, then do I exist?” Will the “Unmapped” recognise themselves or their situation in these pieces of contemporary art? It will be interesting to hear the feedback.

Here is the KLA ART free programme of events showing where the 20 boda bodas will travel to each day between 4th and 31st October.

What’s more, the KLA ART 014 free programme of events includes:

  • The Festival Exhibition – open every day at Kampala Railway Station from 10 am – 6 pm.
  • The Boda Boda Project – launching every day from the Railway Station and driving from there to a different location in Kampala
  • Studio tours every Wednesday during October
  • A symposium
  • Film screenings and
  • ‘Street art intervention’, run by Weaver Bird

 

KLA ART 014 is organised by 32° East | Ugandan Arts Trust, a centre for the exploration and creation of contemporary art in Uganda www.ugandanartstrust.org The full list of partners and sponsors is here.

Underscoring the theme of accessibility, press information is also available in Luganda.

For the latest information on KLA ART 014, check out:

www.klaart.org   |    www.facebook.com/KLAART   |   www.twitter.com/KLAARTfestival

 

So have you seen any of the 20 boda boda project bikes driving around Kampala yet? You certainly can’t miss the huge billboards in the centre of town.

Have you visited Kampala Railway Station? I’d love to know your impressions!

Kampala Art Biennale – what’s it all about?

About the Kampala Art Biennale

Kampala is a dynamic city, bursting with talent. I love this city.

Throughout August this year, Kampala Art Biennale is a showcase of contemporary art from Africa with the goal to expose, educate and create debate about the value of art in society. The Biennale consists of an exhibition of 100 artworks including paintings and photographs, showcasing 45 artists from 13 African countries working under the theme of PROGRESSIVE AFRICA and featuring panel discussions on the relation between art, culture and tourism.

The Muzungu: It’s always great to hear of new initiatives for channeling people’s creativity and giving them a stage and I’m sure the Kampala Art Biennale 2014 marks an important step in putting Kampala’s art scene on the tourist route. I’m really excited to have been asked to help promote this event. 

Inaugural Kampala Art Biennale email poster

EVERYONE IS INVITED – and that means you! Inaugural Kampala Art Biennale ” an international art event to promote Kampala and Uganda as an art tourism destination”

Kampala Art Biennale was established by the Kampala Arts Trust a collective of visual and performance art practitioners living and working in public and private spaces within Uganda’s capital.

Daudi groundie

Daudi Karungi on the newly painted zebra crossing at Aga Khan School in Kampala this week “Educating Kampala society about the value and importance of contemporary art”

Kampala Art Biennale is afro-centric in nature and seeks to promote only artists (foreign or native) working on the African continent. It was established to recognize and integrate African contemporary art that is being created on the peripherals of the mainstream.

The Kampala Art Biennale is an opportunity to see visual arts in various venues across the city. Much more than that, it is an opportunity for debate and discussion on how Africa can transform itself and how creative industries can help generate economic growth. Promoting Kampala as a destination for art lovers is just one way the tourism industry can benefit and in turn help develop Kampala and Uganda.

Paul Ndema, Kampala Art Biennale

Paul Ndema, wings spread-38cm x 55cm-acrylics and ink on water colour paper

Kampala Art Biennale: Theme

PROGRESSIVE AFRICA is a theme derived from the current Pan African – and increasingly global – discussion of AFRICA IS NOW versus AFRICA IS THE FUTURE.

Today in Africa, there are divergent views about the status of Africa in the global village. Some say the world is moving to Africa for opportunities while others say African economies are becoming global markets. These conversations discuss which strategies are the best to accelerate Africa’s progress. All these dialogues suggest one thing; that something is happening on the African continent whether right now – or as it moves into the future.

Under the theme PROGRESSIVE AFRICA, the Kampala Art Biennale 2014 is part of this discussion. African painters, photographers, illustrators, cartoonists, writers and all 2D media artists have been invited to present their perception of the current status of Africa through visual art.

Viewers and visitors will then join in the discussion – pro or against the purported progress  – with the help of the invited artists’ resulting 100 images, the aim being a questioning of African political, social and economic practices.

According to Kampala Art Biennale 2014: “The Biennale will serve as a conduit through which to start a debate that we so desperately need right now about a modern and progressive Africa starting right here in Kampala. There is a need to generate discussions centered on looking beyond aid to the financial resources Africa needs to enable transformative growth.”

Zerihun Seyoum, Kampala Art Biennale

Zerihun Seyoum – Adoption-oil on canvas-2013

Kampala Art Biennale: dates to remember

1st  August 2014

Art, Culture and Tourism panel discussion with experts from the art, culture and tourism sectors. Uganda Museum, 16:00 hrs. On invitation, live on social media

1st  August 2014

Official opening of the Kampala Art Biennale 2014 PROGRESSIVE AFRICA exhibition. Uganda Museum, 17:30 hrs.

2nd – 31st August 2014

Kampala Art Biennale 2014 PROGRESSIVE AFRICA exhibition. Open to the public at various venues across Kampala.

Georges Senga - Kampala Art Biennale

Georges Senga, UNE VIE APRES LA MORT, SIZE DYPTIQUES, 140Cm X 84Cm PRINT Inkjet on barité paper

The Biennale exhibition will be on throughout the month of August 2014 at various venues.

Kampala Art Biennale: Venues

The inaugural Kampala Art Biennale will take place across Kampala at traditional art venues such as Nommo, Afriart and Makerere Art Galleries and the Uganda Museum;

in community venues in heavily populated parts of Kampala, such as offices and hotels (to put art in people’s everyday lives);

and in ‘non-traditional art venues (such as factory, unoccupied buildings and Kingdom Mall building site opposite Oasis Mall).

For the full list of venues, please check the Kampala Art Biennale web site.

 

Eria Sane Nsubuga, Kampala Art Biennale

Eria Sane Nsubuga, The art of faking it, 2014

 

Kampala Art Biennale: selected artists

Uganda Ronex Ahimbisibwe, Paul Ndema, Kalungi Kabuye, Anwar Sadat Nakibinge, Eria Nsubuga Sane, Joshua Ibanda, Ronnie Tindi Chris, Ronald Kerango, Henk Jonker, Wasswa Donald, Babriye Leila, Gillian Gibbons, Shelley Van Heusen.

Kenya Samuel Githui, Justus Kyalo, Yassir Ali Mohammed, Brian Omolo, Michael Soi.

South Africa Samson Mnisi, Senzo Njabulo Shabangu, Nico Phooko, Rael Salley, Daniel Rankadi Mosako, Sylvie Phillips.

Ethiopia AlexanderTadesse, Ezra Wube, Yonas Melesa, Zerihun Seyoum

Angola Angel Ihosvanny Felicidade

Ghana Florine Demosthene, Akwele Suma GLORY

Nigeria Ufuoma Isiavwe, Olusola Otori

Togo Da Costa Kwami

Cote d Ivoire Gopal Dagnogo

Zimbabwe Tashinga Matindike, Gondo Danisile Ncube

DRC Georges Senga

Mali Harandane Dicko

Tanzania Jan van Esch

Kampala Art Biennale, Florine Demosthene

Florine Demosthene, Bitta Disappointment,72cm x 91.44cm, Ink, charcoal, graphite and oil bar on polypropylene

Kampala Art Biennale: side events

Kampala Art Biennale 2014 is partnering with other art and cultural organizations to run a series of side events. More details of these can be found on the Kampala Art Biennale website.

Artists at Kampala Art Biennale launch at UTB

Launch of the Kampala Art Biennale at the Uganda Tourism Board with artists Daudi Karungi and Henry Mujunga and Simon Kaheru, Afriart Gallery. Oh yeah and some Muzungu chick 😉

What is a Biennale?

Biennale [pronounced bee-en-ar-lay] comes from the Italian word for “biennial” or “every other year.” It is most commonly used within the art world to describe large-scale international contemporary art exhibitions.

A Biennale usually has an official theme, spotlights artists of the same nationality as its host city, and is held all over the host city in a number of venues simultaneously. Additionally, Biennales are non-commercial, meaning artists are invited or selected to take part, but don’t sell their art at the Biennale.

 The Venice Biennale is the originator of them all, established in 1895. Around the world, there are now over 60 art Biennales.

“Born as a vehicle for national propaganda, the art biennial today has become an outsize phenomenon mobilizing not only artists, curators and gallerists but sponsors, celebrities and politicians, commanding huge press attention and deciding the careers of artists worldwide. For a city to host a biennial today has colossal ramifications.”

Kampala Art Biennale: contacts

Elizabeth Mbabazi, Afriart Gallery, info@kampalabiennale.org +256 772 662 575

Daudi Karungi, Kampala Arts Trust, daudi@afriartgallery.org +256 712 455 555

Launch of the Kampala Art Biennale at the Uganda Tourism Board

Launch of the Kampala Art Biennale at the Uganda Tourism Board: “Using art to rebuild the creative, jubilant and celebratory spirit of Kampala”

The Kampala Art Biennale initiative is part of a strategic partnership between Kampala Arts Trust and Uganda Tourism Board. Encourage everyone you know to attend at least one of the galleries or venues in Kampala during August.

If you’re unfortunate enough not to be in Kampala (!) do check out the 100 artworks as they appear on the Kampala Art Biennale Facebook. You can also follow Kampala Art Biennale on Twitter