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Grateful every day #LockdownDiaries

A year locked down with nature: Kibale Forest birds – and the occasional rat!

As we approach the one-year anniversary of Uganda’s lockdown, I take a moment to record the everyday sights and sounds of life in my wooden house on the edge of Kibale National Park. It’s easy to forget how different my life is to most people’s. Will I ever live in a modern apartment block again, I wonder?

One of my favourite forest noises is the lead-coloured flycatcher, whose two-tone call is my morning alarm. I don’t want to miss a note of the dawn chorus; in fact, it’s the first thing I miss when I travel. The rich birdsong is the most heartrendingly beautiful start to my day. Nowhere in Uganda can match Kibale Forest for birdsong!

There is little to keep us awake at night, bar the sounds of the forest. Being close to the Rwenzori Mountains, we are also treated to the occasional SHUDDER of an earth tremor. Believe me dear reader, the earth really does move in these parts!

sunset view of Rwenzori Mountains. Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest
Sunset view of the Rwenzori Mountains. View from Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge, western Uganda

Other night-time noises from the edge of Kibale Forest include Wood Owls, Verreau’s Eagle Owls and Black-shouldered Nightjars. The bark of the bushbuck, the YAHOO of baboons and the eerie calls of the Black and White Colobus Monkeys punctuate the night. This morning we were woken by chimpanzees (jealously guarding a fruiting fig tree); frogs can make a racket too! Sometimes we hear elephants, or at least we are alerted to their presence: the sound of ululating children and the loud banging of jerry cans is the usual signal that we have elephant visitors. They are mostly silent but for the rhythmic swish… swish… swish… as they push through three-metre high grass. When the elephants get too close to our neighbours’ crops, rangers sound warning shots into the air. (Once the elephants were so close to my house, I swear I felt the ground tremble). Once in a while, we hear the splintering of wood as elephants fell trees.

Occasionally, we hear the noise of a container lorry moving over the speed humps that stud the road that runs through Kibale Forest. (Thankfully, we don’t hear them often).

My mornings start with a pot of tea on my balcony (after a quick glance at the floor to see which moths the bat has been eating from its roost high in my thatch!)

Early morning sounds vary according to the season. There are birds galore! The high-pitched twittering of Sunbirds, the squawking of Great Blue Turacos and the whistle of African Grey Parrots are joined by gregarious Black and White Casqued Hornbills that bang their cumbersome-looking beaks against tree trunks as they wipe them clean. Kibale Forest’s birds enthrall me! Primates are infrequent visitors to the family compound but Red-tailed Monkeys are known to raid the fig tree just before dawn (before the dogs wake up!)

There is no happier start to the day than the sound of an African Grey Parrot whistling over your head! Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest birds, Uganda

Geckos are welcome housemates (they love eating mosquitoes!) They nest in the thatch and I often find their perfectly round white eggs on my wooden floor. Occasionally the eggs splatter to reveal their runny yellow yolk.

A rustle in the thatch generally denotes a gecko so it’s a sound I usually ignore, until recently when something bigger than a gecko moved noisily above my head. The small hole at the apex of the thatch lets in a few inches of light; next to it was the squirming black body of a medium-sized snake, coiled along the rafters! I imagine it had been sunbathing on my roof. (The grass is ordered and we’ll be sealing that hole in the thatch very soon Ma!)  

While it’s still cool, I explore the forest edge. “You do know elephants blocked our way last night, don’t you?” Julia tells me. “Well, I do now!”

My morning walk-cum-runs along the edge of Kibale National Park have kept me sane this past year. My series of #LockdownDiaries are inspired by the healing effects of nature. Every day is different, should you choose to notice it: I have learned that rare L’Hoest’s Monkeys do visit the forest edge occasionally; I know that ‘cuckoos follow the caterpillars’ meaning hear a cuckoo and you will notice the caterpillars; it also means peak butterfly season is approaching.

A few days ago I had to do a quick U-turn when I saw three chimpanzees along the path ahead of me. During lockdown, the paths became so overgrown and unused that I would run through ten spiders’ webs every morning. (I could dedicate a whole blog to the various spiders that I share my house with! But would it be as scary as this story about night-time invaders?)

Chimpanzee. Kibale Forest, Sunbird Hill Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin
A pensive chimpanzee gazes from the Ficus mucuso fig tree on the edge of Kibale Forest. Photo taken from Sunbird Hill by Charlotte Beauvoisin

I often return home with wet trainers: the morning dew and wading through the flooded ‘elephant potholes’ trail (churned up by seismic elephant footprints) destroyed half my footwear during lockdown.

Sometimes I disturb monkeys on my morning walks. Tut tut tut they warn me, as I march on, undeterred by them (or the tenacious safari ants that can grab on and bite me, even when I’m moving). Occasionally, I hear the startled run of a bushbuck. It’s rare to see this large antelope but we sometimes hear him. What a loud ugly bark he has!

Back in my house, it’s time for a cold shower. Water is pumped up from the local stream by the solar pump (assuming we have a few hours of sunhine).

Over at the pit latrine – refurbished with a shiny mabati tin roof after the thatch rotted and slowly slid off – live a pair of Blue-headed Agama Lizards. A quivering tail pokes out from underneath the mirror on the outside wall. The mirror wobbles as the lizards hear me approach. “I have seen you!” I snigger.

The back of the latrine door bears the muddy nest of a hornet. I used to be terrified of wasps but I’ve learnt they leave us alone; just allow them their flight path while they’re building their nest (and stuffing it full of live caterpillars for their larvae to feed on) and you will be perfect housemates. Wasps build their nests inside furniture (and occasionally on clothes). Paper wasps are very good parents; they will spend almost every living moment sitting on their nest and will not disturb us humans. We live in harmony.

My day proceeds with a few hours at my desk overlooking the forest. Trees in the family compound grow so quickly that we only have a small window through to the forest at the moment.

The ‘bombs’ from the tall Cordia tree near my house make us jump out of our skins! The small hard fruits smash onto the tin roof of the store cupboard (the family’s temporary kitchen during lockdown). The ‘bombing’ can make for fraught nerves…

On Sunday mornings, we hear drumming from the local church, a few hundred metres from us. It’s low-key and we like it (which is just as well since the same rhythm may rumble for two hours or more!)

Local church near Bigodi, Kamwenge. Charlotte Beauvoisin Uganda
I have a love hate relationship with this building. During lockdown, the church was the only place where I could get online. Imagine sitting on this concrete floor hour after hour. No wonder I lost my mojo…

Lunch in the village is a simple affair. Most days we eat ‘staff lunch’ of posho and beans. I love katogo of matooke and groundnuts too (now you may understand why I have started running again!)

Mid-afternoon, the house skink runs up and down the wooden posts holding the thatch above the balcony. We regularly eyeball each other. (I hope that damned cat doesn’t get him).

I collect insects – inside my mosquito net. Today I have found a long-horned beetle. Last week there was a praying mantis inside my net. One time I was lying in bed and a rat ran over my foot. Note to self: tuck the net in a bit better!

We do our best to rat-proof, mouse-proof and insect-proof our belongings. If we are not careful, stuff gets munched. Food scraps must quickly go in bins with lids; dry goods must be in sealed plastic containers. Soap and computer cables are other favourite foods of rodents. Clothes must be shaken before wearing: one day Julia’s mum put on a jumper. A skink jumped out of it, then another, then another!

My open-air shower doubles as a washing-up station. Showering, birdwatching and doing the dishes – this is multitasking ‘forest-style’.

Felex the cat checks out the outdoor shower. Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge
Felex the cat checks out my open-air shower

My life here as blogger in residence at Sunbird Hill is ‘a happy accident’. I moved here – temporarily – three years ago. It’s been an incredible place to spend lockdown and I am grateful everyday.

It doesn’t mean I don’t miss Kampala (but let me not start on the list of places and people that I miss!)

We toast goodbye to the working day with the occasional sundowner. Uganda Waragi – with freshly roasted ground nuts – is the tipple of choice. It’s usually dark by 7 o’clock and we retire early. I surround myself with books and immerse myself in podcasts. I sleep early, eagerly anticipating the next dawn chorus!

If you enjoy the Muzungu’s dispatches from the forest, read my #LockdownDiaries series and A forest wakes up.

A forest wakes up

Birdwatching my way through lockdown in Kibale Forest

Lockdown has found me on the edge of Kibale Forest in western Uganda where I live in a thatched wooden house on stilts a few hundred metres from the elephant trench that marks the boundary of the National Park.

Dawn chorus on the edge of Kibale National Park is so hypnotic that I’m regularly awake by 6.21 every morning, eager not to miss the Lead-coloured Flycatcher’s soothing two-note call, my usual morning alarm.

By contrast, the past few awakenings have been rather jarring. They may be grand birds on the wing but, when they are calling from your roof, Hornbills are not always so welcome!

I spend the first hour of every day birdwatching and drinking tea on the balcony at the front of my house. Here on the Equator, it gets light around 7 o’clock throughout the year.

The black-and-white Casqued Hornbills are bouncing around the fig tree before dawn. One hop, two hop, a Hornbill with a black head and matching casque hops up and down the tree boosted by a big flap of its wings. The branch sags low under its weight. The bird picks a small green fig the size of a Malteser with its cumbersome-looking beak. It throws back its almighty casqued head to swallow it. (It looks like a lot of effort for a tiny fruit). These sometimes-clumsy birds are dainty eaters. Who would have guessed?

A pair of Hornbills are joined by a third. As I watch, bird number one feeds the third one. Could this giant be their baby? They wipe their beaks left and right against the lichen-covered trunk. A bird bangs its hollow casque on a branch; the unusual noise fills the air.

There’s a flash of blue! The first of the Great Blue Turacos glides in.

Another Hornbill glides down onto a branch on the edge of Kibale Forest 500 metres from where I’m sitting. I trace its distinct silhouette against the dark green background.

It seems impossible that my movement might scare these noisy birds, but they panic easily. Seven Hornbills fly noisily into the forest. Smaller birds scatter in their wake.

Ross's Turaco. Kibale Forest Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Ross’s Turaco. Kibale Forest Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin

The light is too poor for the camera so I just sit and watch. A pair of Ross’s Turacos hop and creep up the tree trunks. I contrast the dainty hops of the Ross’s with the clumsy antics of the Great Blue Turacos bouncing and crashing through the branches.

The sound of heavy wing beats signals the arrival of another Hornbill; a second loud wing beat follows close behind. They settle in the fig tree. Single caws suggest happiness and contentment.

Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. Charlotte Beauvoisin

Small birds swoop in twos and threes. They are non-descript in the early morning light. As the minutes pass, their blue sheen confirms they are purple-headed starlings.

Violet-backed Starlings now number more than 20. In bright sunshine, the plumage of these same birds appears bright pink. I love the seasonal twittering of flocks of starlings.

The caws have subdued. Six Hornbills sit silently except for the occasional beat of a wing as they move through the branches, scouring the tree for figs. The slender branches of this inconspicuous tree are stronger than they look.

From the village a few kilometres away, I hear the repetitive cawing and screeching of more Hornbills. As I watch the tree over the days and weeks that the figs are ripe, I notice a pattern: the Hornbills call loudly from the village before one, two, three birds fly towards the forest. They pause here at Sunbird Hill for a few minutes before resuming their flight to the forest where they pass the day. Wave after wave of twos and threes pass overhead every morning and evening.

By contrast, Great Blue Turacos can – believe it not – be far quieter.

I recall a morning when I heard leaves dropping from the canopy of another fig tree by my house. I looked up, amazed to see 12 GBTs gobbling figs. When the fruits are ripe, turacos glide in stealthily; the only thing you might hear is the whirr of wings, not a single call. While they feed, the only sounds are leaves and figs dropping to the ground. Disturb them and the mass evacuation will be panicked and noisy! Their feeding habits are in marked contrast to their otherwise gregarious behaviour.

I once spotted both Meyer’s and African Grey Parrots feeding in this same tree. “It’s very rare to see these two parrot species together” said our friend Ronald, a ranger and tourism warden with the Uganda Wildlife Authority.

A Hornbill heaves into flight. It flies head-first in my direction, veering to the right as it passes within ten feet of me.

One, two, four Hornbills depart for the warmth of the sunlit trees on the forest edge. There is a moment of quiet.

With little noise and no drama, the Great Blue Turaco population of the fig tree now numbers eight or more. The diversity of large fruit-eating birds is a sign of the forest’s abundance.

Lizard Buzzard. Sunbird Hill, Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Lizard Buzzard. Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge, Uganda. Photo by Charlotte Beauvoisin

A flash of grey feathers catches my eye as I am sitting at the laptop. Seconds later, this striking Lizard Buzzard (plus wriggling lunch) lands in the tree a few metres from my desk. The remains of a long tail suggest it was eating a snake. (It was intriguing to note the reptile’s tail was still flexing, five minutes into the lunch session!)

Mid-afternoon the birdsong is almost deafening. (Who can work with so much distraction?) I am drawn onto the balcony to just sit amid the music. Two species of starlings entertain me. The African Blue Flycatcher and Red-bellied Paradise Flycatcher weave colourful patterns in the lower branches of the fig trees. After a short absence, the Black-and-white (Vanga) Shrike flycatchers are back. A flash of red signals the head feathers of a Yellow-spotted Barbet. Hairy-breasted and Double-toothed Barbets are occasional afternoon visitors. Last year, this same fig tree was full of Barbets for several weeks; this year Hornbills, Turacos and Starlings steal the show.

Red-tailed Monkey. Kibale Forest Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Red-tailed Monkey “nkima” Kibale Forest Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin

As dusk approaches, a primate face peers through the bright green foliage of a medium-sized tree. It’s a dark-haired monkey with a white snub nose and white cheeks. It leans forward to grab young shoots and reclines to reveal a white belly. It’s one of many monkey visitors to the ripe fig tree. Each species has their timeslot; the Red-tailed Nkima Monkey appears after birds have had their fill.

I wrote this episode of my #LockdownDiaries for Alan Davies and Ruth Davies who are best known for identifying a record-breaking 4,341 bird species on their gruelling one-year world tour. You can read the original story on their website: A View From Uganda – A Forest Wakes Up – Kibale National Park. Alan and Ruth are regular birdwatching visitors to Uganda and we hope to see them here at Sunbird Hill one day!

There is no happier start to the day than the sound of an African Grey Parrot whistling over your head! Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest birds, Uganda

Uganda slashes permit & park fees for all visitors

Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) announces long list of exciting discounts across the country!

If you’ve ever wanted to track the mountain gorillas, go on safari in Uganda’s National Parks and Wildlife Reserves, track chimpanzees or go birdwatching in Uganda’s Protected Areas, now is the time! Make the most of reduced fees until 30th June 2021. (In March 2021, UWA extended the discounts to the new June date).

It’s with great excitement that we can share a long list of discounts and incentives for visiting Uganda’s key wildlife attractions. Whether you are a Ugandan, an expat or planning to fly into Entebbe International Airport, travel between now and the end of June 2021. These substantial discounts make this gorgeous country even more attractive! (Pair these with discounts announced in July 2020 and you will be spoiled for choice!)

Uganda Wildlife Authority. Parks are now open 2020. Protect our primates. Follow the COVID-19 safety measures.

Reduction on mountain gorilla and chimpanzee tracking permit fees in Uganda for all visitors

Essentially, everyone is entitled to discounts, whether Ugandans, international tourists, expatriates living in Uganda or East African residents. Check out the tables I’ve created below.

NOTE: Uganda Wildlife Authority announced some discounts in July 2020 as well. I have tried to list them all in this blog as well (but the combinations and options do get a little confusing!)

Discounted prices for gorilla tracking and chimp tracking in Uganda from 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021

GORILLA tracking permits – Uganda*Now*Was…Saving
East African Community citizen (Ugandan, Rwandan, Kenyan, Tanzanian, South Sudanese)UGX 150,000UGX 250,000UGX 100,000
Foreign resident (expat)USD 300USD 600USD 300
Foreign non-resident (international tourist)USD 400USD 700USD 300

Has this got you excited about tracking the mountain gorillas? Read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas.

CHIMPANZEE tracking permits Uganda*Now*Was…Saving you
East African Community citizenUGX 100,000UGX 150,000UGX 50,000
Foreign resident (expat)USD 100USD 150USD 50
Foreign non-resident (international tourist)USD 150USD 200USD 50

Chimpanzee tracking is a rather different experience – livelier, more energetic – and frequently very noisy! Read a wonderful account of chimp tracking here. I love on the edge of Kibale Forest so I have tons of stories and tips to share as well 😉

50% discount off park entrance fees 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021

UWA’s discounts apply to most National Parks and some Wildlife Reserves. The ones in the 50% promotion are: Lake Mburo, Queen Elizabeth, Kidepo Valley, Murchison Falls and Semliki National Parks; Toro-Semuliki, Katonga, Pian Upe and Kabwoya Wildlife Reserves.

There are three pricing categories: A, B and C. A is the most expensive (with the best facilities and most visited).

Here is the full – and pre-discounted – Uganda Wildlife Authority tariff of July 2020 to June 2022.

Pay for two days park entry and get one day free! Until June 2021

Note that UWA has another offer running currently too: pay for two days park entry and get one day free. This applies to all National Parks and Wildlife Reserves. The ‘3 for 2’ offer lasts until the end of June 2021.

It’s interesting to note that Uganda Wildlife Authority is promoting Wildlife Reserves. Plans are underway to upgrade Toro-Semliki, Katonga and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserves to National Park status in the very near future.

Visiting a National Park? Check out Diary of a Muzungu’ guide to Uganda’s National Parks.

50% discount off birding fees 1st December 2020 to end of June 2021

Yes! Did you know Uganda has over 1,000 bird species? (Contrast that with the U.K.’s 600 or so species and you get an idea of how special Uganda is. The countries are a similar size). Birding (or birdwatching) is one of the muzungu’s favourite activities.

Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Great Blue Turaco, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. Photo by Charlotte Beauvoisin

50% discount off nature walk fees 1st December 2020 to end of March 2021

This applies to nature walks in Murchison Falls, Kidepo Valley, Queen Elizabeth, Lake Mburo National Parks and Kapkwai Exploration Centre in Mount Elgon National Park.

East Africans now pay 10,000 ugx.

Expats (foreign residents) and international tourists (foreign non-residents) now pay $15 (normally $30).

Do you want to climb Mount Elgon?

This is a really fantastic hike! Between now and the end of June 2022, groups of twenty people can get a 20% discount on the usual fees.

Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda
Hiking through the Giant Lobelia, climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda. PHOTO Nicola Swann

Read all about my four-day trip to Wagagai Peak in a “A girl called Kevin – climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda.”

How to track the gorillas and chimps – safely – during COVID

My plea: travel safely, wear a mask, wash your hands and sanitise frequently. If you’re planning to see the primates, follow the instructions to the letter. Mountain gorillas and chimpanzees are at high risk of catching COVID-19 from us and extra precautions have been put in place to ensure the safety of our closest relatives. Remember we are approximately 98% the same DNA and a chimp or gorilla can catch a human cold. Do not do anything that might compromise their health.

Charlotte and Dillon wear masks
Charlotte and Dillon wear masks – our first attempt…

Uganda Wildlife Authority’s list of incentives will come as a big blow to neighbouring Rwanda who had dropped their gorilla tracking permits from a high $1500 down to $500, undercutting the stated prices in Uganda. However, everyone in Uganda is delighted that we can start marketing again! This is a great boost for the Ugandan tourism industry.

Visit the Uganda Wildlife Authority website for confirmation of the tourism incentive promotions.

Do you have any questions? If you’re ready to plan a trip, visit my Travel Directory. I work with a number of tour operators who can book gorilla and chimp permits, arrange your accommodation and guide you on safari. 

Want a tried and tested recommendation? Feel free to drop a comment below or contact me directly.

Now let’s go enjoy Uganda’s wild areas!

Please share with a friend 😁 🇺🇬 🙏🏻 🐒 🦍 🐘 🦒 🦁

#VisitUganda #Tulambule #TravelTomorrow

Uniquely Semliki

Semliki Safari Lodge, Toro Semliki Wildlife Reserve, western Uganda

Where in Uganda can you enjoy a night game drive, engage with experts who are actively conserving a Protected Area and share stories over Masterchefcalibre dinners at the Captain’s Table?

The luxurious Semliki Safari Lodge sits in the middle of Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, a Protected Area that will soon be upgraded to a National Park. “Uganda’s oldest upmarket tented camp” is equidistant from Lake Albert and the excellent new road from Fort Portal to Bundibugyo that winds its way through jaw-dropping Rift Valley panoramas.

This was my third – and arguably my most interesting – visit to this luxury lodge. My mission? To count birds on behalf of NatureUganda… (while being spoiled rotten!)

Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve’s birdlife is fantastic and easily seen. The wildlife reserve may not have the animal numbers of well-established National Parks but forest elephants and a multitude of primates made for three memorable game drives. One morning I even heard the unmistakable sound of a chimpanzee in the forest below my tent.

If you want to reconnect with nature – in luxury and style – I highly recommend a few days at Semliki Safari Lodge.

“I heard a leopard last night” Lodge Manager Tony announced when we checked in – but would we see one?

Scroll down to read the Muzungu’s account of our night game drive and learn about all the diverse activities you can do in and around the lodge.

Scat, cats and bats! A night game drive in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve

We were thrilled when the team suggested we jump in the lodge’s safari vehicle for a night game drive. As we dimmed our torches, fireflies blinked in the darkness and we bumped along the marram track towards the airstrip.

Our first sighting was a pretty little Genet Cat, similar in size to a domestic cat with a bushy tail. Once I was familiar with their eye colour and size, it was easy to pick out more Genets in the woodland either side of the track.

A few minutes from the lodge, we pulled up next to a big puddle. We were amazed when Tony jumped out and plucked a terrapin from the muddy water! He explained how Side-headed Terrapins are common in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve but only appear when the rain fills up the ruts and gullies. “Our guides drive around the puddles to protect the terrapins, rather than through them.” He added.

On the airstrip, a small flat area of cut grass, we cruised slowly up and down looking for nightjars, shy nocturnal birds that are sometimes seen ‘dust bathing’ on the ground. They are masters of camouflage. It’s only when you (almost) run over them that you notice them fly off in alarm.

According to Stevenson and Fanshawe’s Birds of East Africa “Nightjars are a notoriously difficult group to identify: not only do the species look alike, several have different colour morphs.” Don’t ask this casual birder to tell the two species apart, but our guides did. There were two new ticks for the muzungu that night: a Square-tailed Nightjar and a Slender-tailed Nightjar. Temporarily dazzled by our torches, the nightjars sat silent and immobile giving us the chance to admire their delicate plumage.

A Water Thick-knee pretended not to see us. This mainly nocturnal bird “freezes or squats if disturbed,” the book tells us. How true! “They are easily identified by their well-camouflaged brown plumage, large yellow eyes and long thickly jointed yellowish legs.”

Our nocturnal adventure continued with more interesting creatures: a leopard had visited the airstrip not long before us.

As we swept our torches along the ground, we picked out the small dark shapes of animal droppings. On closer inspection, the leopard scat (poo) was crawling with 40 dung beetles. Tony’s eyes lit up with excitement “I’ve never seen so many!” He said. “It’s the remains of a leopard’s kill.”

As we leaned in for a closer look, we recognised fluffy grey baboon fur among the dung beetles, moths and leopard scat. The beetles had clearly been industrious in the preceding 24-hours: little remained of the baboon prey.

Back in the vehicle, we spotted the ears of a young Kob poking through the long grass at the verge of the airstrip.

“Don’t disturb it.” Tony explained how we must not draw attention to this lone calf. It would make easy pickings for a leopard.

As we drove back to the lodge – and around the puddles – a Yellow-winged Bat swept through the night air. The beam of the headlights picked out a Defassa Waterbuck in the sanctuary of the lodge grounds. We may not have seen the leopard, but it was clearly around.

Wining, dining and sleeping – Semliki Safari Lodge’s creature comforts

Even with the reduced number of staff (due to the pandemic) the lodge did a tremendous job of looking after us. Every mouthful of food was delicious. Each ingredient is carefully considered, from the home-made chili to the exquisite pumpkin soup and pretty creations of delicate salad leaves. Breakfast is a gourmet affair of poached eggs with bacon and rocket, cereals and tropical fruit served with home-made bread, chunky marmalade and excellent coffee.

Every night, guests are invited to dine by candlelight with the lodge managers at the Captain’s Table, a rare treat at a Ugandan lodge. Tony and Noline are seasoned Safari experts. (I would revisit Semliki Safari Lodge any time for these shared dining experiences alone!)

The huge dining table – fashioned from one gigantic slab of wood – is perfect for social distancing. Semliki’s main living area of chunky sofas, tribal art and wall murals by the artist Taga is rather grand.

All rooms are fitted to a high standard. The hardwood floor of the luxury tents felt wonderful underfoot and there is generous amounts of hot water for the showers and luxurious outdoor bathtubs. Persian carpets and antique furniture recall a classic African safari. Kikois and slippers are provided, as well as mosquito repellent and a lockable cupboard. Every suite has a daybed on its private deck. (As I write this, I feel the urge to return!)

On a tour of the lodge grounds, lodge manager Tony explained how the units have been re-modelled to maximise the forest views. The new layout almost doubles the floor size of each luxury setup. Where possible, every item has been recycled, including “Amin’s steel,” reclaimed from the ruins of the original Uganda Hotel that once sat on this site. New materials include Elgon olive wood and thatch provided by the nearby Ntoroko Grass Growers’ Association.

Here in the bush, the Uganda Safari Company has invested heavily in solar power, a water borehole, a vegetable garden and more. They supply the water to the Uganda Wildlife Authority and UPDF (army) camps, a key contribution to managing the security of the Wildlife Reserve and its wildlife. Working together, the three organisations have cut the tracks and created a pond for animals to drink from during the dry season, amongst other initiatives. I admire The Uganda Safari Company’s vision – and determination – to protect this little pocket of nature.

What was Diary of a Muzungu doing at Semliki Safari Lodge?

Twice a year the team from Sunbird Hill carry out bird population monitoring on behalf of NatureUganda. Our patch is the Kibale Conservation Area which comprises Kibale National Park, Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve, Semliki National Park, Lake Saka / Lake Bikere, Toro Botanical Gardens, Fort Portal and Katonga Wildlife Reserve.

Sunbird Hill team visit Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda 2020
Sunbird Hill team visit Semliki Safari Lodge Uganda September 2020. It was wonderful for our team to be in the company of like-minded conservationists and nature-lovers – especially after lockdown!

Why should you go on safari at Semliki Safari Lodge?

Whether you drive – or fly in – to Semliki, I highly recommend game drives with the lodge’s knowledgeable site guides Julius and David. They know the Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve inside out and are full of interesting anecdotes. They are expert drivers too.

What are the rates to stay at Semliki Safari Lodge?

Semliki Safari Lodge have some superb rates for residents. Take advantage of them while you can. The lodge has two packages to choose from: Full Board includes all meals and the Game Package includes meals, certain non-premium drinks and two game drives a day. If you make an enquiry, please say Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉

  • A night game drive to the airstrip.
  • Safari game drive on one of the numerous tracks in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve.
  • A dip in the lodge swimming pool.
  • Sundowners around the lodge campfire at the lodge or at the Semliki Bush Bar on an evening game drive.
  • Luxurious bush breakfasts, picnics and private dinners in stunning locations.
  • Primate walk in Mugiri Forest below the lodge. Chimp sightings are not guaranteed but you have a good chance of seeing Olive Baboons, Vervet, Red-tailed and Black and White Colobus Monkeys. Bookings can be made at the Uganda Wildlife Authority office next to the lodge entrance.
  • Lake Albert and tours to see the Shoebill are 30 minutes’ drive away and can be arranged by the lodge.
  • Semliki is “a Mecca for birders” with over 425 species recorded. My birding highlights included: Abyssinian Ground Hornbill, Crested Francolin, Crowned Hornbill, Palm Nut Vulture, Flappet Lark, White-browed Coucal, Grey Kestrel, Yellow-throated Longclaw, Striped Kingfisher, Helmeted Guineafowl, African Paradise Flycatcher, Black-billed Barbet, Northern Black Flycatcher, Oxpecker, Ruppell’s Long-tailed Starling, Long-crested Eagle, Black Coucal, Grey-backed Fiscal, Rattling Cisticcola, Blue-naped Mousebird, Ring-necked Dove, Grey-headed Kingfisher, Ross’s Turaco, Pygmy Kingfisher, Piapiac, Bateleur, African White-backed Vulture, Red-cheeked Cordon Bleu, Blue-spotted Wood-dove, Little Bee eater, White-banded Snake Eagle, Fork-tailed Drongo, Black-billed Wood-dove, Lanner Falcon, Spotted Morning Thrush – and two species of Nightjar.
  • Look for butterflies. The Sunbird Hill team identified over 50 species including: Blue Sailor, Sulphur Orange Tip, Pea Blue, Red Tip, African Queen, Pearl Charaxes, Citrus Swallowtail, Blue Demon Charaxes, Scarlet Tip and Guineafowl Butterfly.
  • Birding in Semliki National Park (SNP) or Ntandi along the main road just outside SNP, just over an hour’s drive from the lodge.
  • The hot springs at Sempaya, Semliki National Park.
  • Do a day – or longer – hike in the Rwenzori foothills. There are a number of tour operators and community organisations that organise hikes. Send me a message if you would like a recommendation.
  • Andrew Roberts, co-author of the Bradt Uganda Guide, recommends the (very steep) walk from Ntandi to Karagutu.
  • Bundibugyo is the Rwenzori region’s closest town to the DRC (just 10km). There is not a lot to do in Bundibugyo but I find it rather charming. It’s a scenic drive, particularly during the rainy seasons. Look out for cocoa plantations along the route.
  • Enjoy the Rift Valley scenery. As you drive from Fort Portal, skirting the Rwenzori foothills to the left, there are a number of roadside stops where you can take photographs. To your right is the Kijura Escarpment, the “eastern wall of the Rift Valley” according to Andrew Roberts’ excellent maps of Uganda.

If you love birds, a tranquil pace, seriously great food and stimulating company, you will love Semliki Safari Lodge. It’s perfect for seasoned safari-goers who want to reconnect with nature.

Would you like to visit Semliki? Which activities would you try?

Read more about Semliki Safari Lodge in my Travel Directory and, if you make an enquiry, please mention the Muzungu sent you 😉

10 fascinating facts about flamingos, Lake Elmenteita, Kenya

10 fascinating facts (I bet you didn’t know) about flamingos!

Flamingo-watching, horse riding among zebras, a game drive in search of elands, giraffes and Secretary Birds – what more can a girl ask for? Sigh… read about my three action-packed days at the luxurious Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp, Soysambu Conservancy in Kenya’s Rift Valley.

For many years I’ve had a postcard decorated with bright pink birds next to my desk. Seeing flamingos in their natural environment has been high on my African travel bucket list for longer than I remember. Although flamingos are occasional visitors to Uganda, their numbers are low and their arrival unpredictable. I was therefore thrilled to have the opportunity to visit Kenya’s Lake Elmenteita, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Important Bird Area, famous for its flamingo and pelican populations.

Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp has a superb range of activities for the active (and the not so active!) Horse riding, game drives, archery, a lakeshore breakfast, birdwatching and the Serena’s wonderful Maisha Spa are just a few highlights. Would the muzungu be able to fit them all in my three-day stay? (If you know me, you know I want to try everything!)

Scroll down for 10 Fascinating Facts about Flamingos.

Diary of a Muzungu horseback safari at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp (Photos Charlotte Beauvoisin)
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As soon as I stepped out of the vehicle, my eyes were drawn to Lake Elementeita and the hill known as the Sleeping Warrior (AKA Lord Delamere’s Nose). Between us lay a chink of shining water. Were the flamingos there?

Checking into my luxury tent cum cottage would have to wait while I peered at the lake – and there it was! – a fine line of pink and the most extraordinary noise. (I was to become familiar with the funny noises that feeding flamingos make!)

Flamingos are so unusual that my mind raced with questions about their pink appearance, their unusual beak and their quirky dance! If you’re curious like I am, you might enjoy the tips I collected about these fabulous and unique birds.

10 Fascinating Flamingo Facts

Who can fail to identify a flamingo? These leggy tropical wading birds have long curvy necks. Most noticeably of all, they are pink!

Flamingos are water birds that live in and around lakes and lagoons. In East Africa, these waters are usually saline or alkaline.

Did you know… ? The pinkest flamingos have the highest status as their bright colour shows that the bird is good at finding food and thus strong.

Fun Flamingo Fact #1

Why are flamingos pink?

Flamingos embody the phrase “you are what you eat” and consume a diet of small fish, shrimps and crustaceans that live on lake algae. The pink comes from beta-carotene in the crustaceans.

Did you know… ? Flamingos that live in zoos will turn white if their diet is not supplemented with live shrimp or food containing carotenoid pigments.

The number of pink birds is increasing – this is a new thing according to my guide at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp. Other birds such as Yellow-billed Stork can be affected and you may see a pink tinge to their wings.

Flamingos are pink on the inside, too. Flamingo skin is pink; so is flamingo blood!

Fun Flamingo Fact #2

There are six species of flamingo. Two are native to East Africa.

The Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus) is the most widespread flamingo species. Greater Flamingos are bigger and have a defined S body shape.

The Lesser Flamingo (Phoenicopterus minor) is the most numerous species of flamingo. Lesser Flamingos are smaller but pinker!

Did you know… ? Both flamingo species can be seen at Lake Elmenteita.

Fun Flamingo Fact #3

Did you know… ? Flamingos feed upside down while dancing? They hold their breath while feeding too!

Their feet disturb the lakebed and release algae. With their head upside-down, they suck the muddy water and filter the lake’s nutrient through their specially designed beak.

Fun Flamingo Fact #4

Groups of flamingos are known as colonies and may number several hundred birds. In East Africa, more than one million flamingos have been known to flock together.

Did you know… ? As breeding time approaches, a high-status flamingo will influence the rest of the flock to breed by changing its feathers to a deeper shade of pink, kick-starting the breeding rituals. Isn’t that amazing?

Fun Flamingo Fact #5

Did you know… ? A colony of flamingos all mate at the same time so chicks all hatch at the same time.

Flamingos are monogamous and produce one egg each year. The pair build a nest of mud and sticks and take turns to sit on the egg while it incubates. When a flamingo chick hatches, after a month, both parents take turns to feed it. Their straight beaks start to curve as they grow. Flamingo chicks are born white or grey and take up to 3 years to reach their mature pink colour

Flamingos breed on Lake Natron in Tanzania but spend most of their year on lakes in Kenya.

Fun Flamingo Fact #6

Did you know… ? You can see flamingos (those that are not breeding) throughout the year at Lake Elmentaita.

The breeding flamingos – and young – return to Lake Elmenteita from May onwards. During June 2018, there were more flamingos here than ever: almost the whole lake was covered, according to my guide at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp.

From late December to January flamingos fly to their breeding ground on Lake Natron in Tanzania. A number always remain at lake Elmentaita – with the large pelican population – throughout the year.

Fun Flamingo Fact #7

Did you know… ? Although flamingo numbers are fairly stable, Lesser Flamingos are considered near threatened because their numbers are small or decreasing, according to the IUCN (International Union for the Conservation of Nature).

Fun Flamingo Fact #8

Flamingos live between 20 and 30 years, some longer. They have one of the longest lifespans in the bird world.

Did you know… ? Fossil remains show close relatives of the flamingo existed around 30 million years ago. This makes them one of the older bird species

Fun Flamingo Fact #9

Do you know why flamingos stand on one leg when they want to rest? It’s been suggested that having one leg out of the water preserves body heat.

A flamingo knee bends backwards (and is covered in feathers). The “knee” that we see is actually an ankle joint. 

Fun Flamingo Fact #10

The word ‘flamingo’ comes from the Spanish word ‘flamenco’ meaning fire, which refers to the bright colour of their feathers (naturally!)

Flamingos and birdlife, Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp. (Photos Henry Sanoe and Serena Hotels)
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The spacious tented accommodation at the 4-star Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp is a clever combination of fixed walls and canvas that rolls up to reveal mosquito-netted windows. Each cottage has a private view of the lake.

Rooms are furnished with colonial-style furniture: a wooden floor, a large desk complete with cubbyholes for letters, a desk lamp, a hefty wooden chest with brass fittings, a day bed, a dressing table, and overhead a chandelier (of course) and framed prints of some of East Africa’s most exotic birds such as the flamboyant Northern Carmine Bee eater, and Lilac-breasted Roller.

I had two delicious nights sleep on a ridiculously comfortable mattress. I was in seventh heaven when I found hot water bottles warming my bed! Mosquito nets drape around the four-poster bed and fall to the floor. My bathroom had ‘double vanities’ (twin basins); it had two of everything in fact – even a double ‘his and her’ shower! Toiletries are provided in large wall dispensers. (Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp is Gold Eco-rated after all!) Each cottage is well connected with power sockets, a phone and plenty of hot water.

About Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp

  • The 25 luxury tented accommodation can sleep up to 50 people.
  • The Flamingo Suite is the closest accommodation to the lake and perfect for honeymooning couples.
  • Complimentary activities include cooking with the chef, watercolour painting, a botanical tour, archery, Swahili lessons and yoga
  • Other (charged) activities include night game drives, massages and bush dinner.
  • The swimming pool is gorgeous!
  • There is a small ‘conference tent’ that can be set up for up to 35 people

For more information…

  • Why not combine a stay at Lake Elmentaita with a few days at the Nairobi Serena Hotel? Read my blog ‘How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel.’
  • Rates are usually based on full board and include Soysambu Conservancy fee and numerous (but not all) activities; mineral water or soft drinks with meals. Family offer: children under five years sharing rooms with parents stay free.

Travel tips and Directions to Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp

  • The journey by road from Nairobi takes 2 1/2 hours. Distance from Nairobi 135 km; Nakuru 30 km; Nakuru National Park (Nderit gate) 27 km.
  • Fly by private plane or charter to nearby airstrip.
  • Land a helicopter at the camp’s helipad.
  • The final approach to the Conservancy is on a good new road. Within five minutes we were in dusty bush and almost immediately saw bushbuck, warthog and impala.
  • The Soysambu Conservancy was created in 2007 and is known as a ‘dual land use’ conservancy of wildlife with livestock. The Conservancy’s 48,000 acres (190 square km) protects 12,000 wild animals (including Rothschild’s giraffe, zebra, eland, buffalo, leopard and lion), 7,000 cattle and 4,000 goats and sheep. The conservancy is clean, quiet and isolated from modern life. (I found comfort in not seeing any human activity on the lake).
  • Visitors to the Conservancy can only gain entry by booking in advance. This policy is because the Conservancy’s infrastructure can only support a limited number of vehicles. This limited access gives pre-booked visitors an exclusive experience. Book through the Conservancy’s tourism partners (such as Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp) or camp.
  • Soysambu is very accessible and you don’t need a four-wheel-drive. If you buy a map of the conservancy then you don’t need to hire a guide.
  • For additional wildlife excitement, Nakuru National Park is a stone’s throw away and home to a few species you can’t see at the Conservancy, including white rhino, black rhino, striped hyena and elephant.
  • By comparison, conservancy fees are very affordable (and included in the rates for staying at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp).

Read full details about Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp’s facilities in my Travel Directory.

Have you visited Lake Elmenteita? How much do you LOVE flamingos?

Billing and cooing around Lake Saka, Fort Portal

Pelicans and Great-crested Grebes – monitoring birds at Lake Saka on behalf of NatureUganda

Billing and cooing around Lake Saka – or “more birdwatching with Rog!”

The sight of four Sacred Ibis flying overhead is “a good sign” according to Roger, as we drive down the dusty back roads of Fort Portal towards Lake Saka. “I’m surprised to see them here,” he says. A minute later two Grey Crowned Cranes follow their route. The road to Mountains of the Moon University is so dusty a boda boda drive towards us with a face mask on.

Roger is anxious about what birdlife we’ll see or more correctly what we won’t see at Lake Saka. When he lived in Fort Portal he walked around this lake four times a week. He is concerned at what damage may been done in the year since his visit. Roger is prepared to be disappointed.

We park at the university and within minutes Roger’s face lights up as he hears the sound of a Red-winged Francolin. “I didn’t think they’d still be here!” He says. “There were three pairs here before. It’s the only place I’ve seen them in Uganda.”

At an elevation of 1,576 metres, we are around 400 metre higher than our forest edge home and this is reflected in the different bird species.

Our group of guides and casual birders sets to work following the transects designated for the NatureUganda bird population monitoring. “There’s no time for birdwatching, we have to focus on the transects,” orders Roger. “We can dilly dally later, on our walk back.”

Julia takes notes and Dillon (aged 8 1/2) watches the clock for us.

I spy a Red-eyed Dove on the overhead wire.

“Palm nut Vulture!” Calls Ambrose.

“A Windchat – a migrant.”

A Pink-backed Pelican sits on the surface of the lake. “This is fabulous!” Exclaims Rog.

“African Fish Eagle in the distance” calls Ambrose.

Roger points out the African Stonechat. What a pretty pair of birds they are. The female is quite different to the male and has a reddish pink breast.

Sightings come quickly. There’s no time to watch the birds, only to record them and march on. A small flock of Black and White Manikins sit on bleached ears of maize.

“Chubb’s Cisticola” someone shouts – and a pause to check its ID in Fanshawe’s “Birds of East Africa.”

The striking Baglefecht’s Weaver poses in Erthrynia.

“Ants!” Shouts Dianah. We step over a trail of red (biting) ants across our path.

We walk down a quiet marram path that slopes gently downhill. We’ve been walking for twenty minutes and only passed two of three other people. There are no cars, no boda bodas. All we can hear are the sounds of nature.

In the distance are the misty foothills of the Rwenzori Mountains. A speck of white passes high in the sky, lit by the sun. “Little Egret,” calls Roger.

A Cinnamon-chested Bee eater perches on a branch above our heads.

“Ah BEAUTIFUL… !” Everyone coos at the same time.

“Charlotte – take a photo!”

“There’s no time for birdwatching” Julia shouts sarcastically, mimicking Roger, pushing us on.

There is the sound of running water and the air cools as we cross a small stream. Above it is a large messy Hammerkop nest in the crook of a tree. A man washes his boda boda in the flowing water.

“Isn’t there a law against that?” Muses Roger loudly as we file past the naughty boda driver.

We climb a long slope that opens high above the lake. “African Open-billed Stork!” Ambrose shouts. (I love those prehistoric-looking birds).

A lone cow bellows loudly.

We see another six African Open-billed Storks, then three more. Close by, eleven Bronze Manikins fly through the tall grass. In this lovely unspoiled piece of countryside there are few houses.

“We haven’t found a Grebe yet,” Roger. Despite some good bird sightings, his anxiety persists.

As we wander along the path, the team calls out bird names:

Two Northern Black Flycatchers… Short-winged Cisticola… Yellow-throated Longclaw… Eight Pink-backed Pelicans. “This is brilliant, there only used to be one!” Cries Rog.

Lavaillant's Cuckoo. Lake Saka, Saaka, Fort Portal. Bird watching
Lavaillant’s Cuckoo. Lake Saka, Saaka, Fort Portal. Bird watching

I get a close-up shot of a Lavaillant’s Cuckoo in an avocado tree next to the path.

We hear the plaintive sound of cranes in the distance over the lake. A Variable Sunbird perches on the tip of a matooke leaf. “Pretty!” Says Dianah.

Eastern Grey Plantain eater… two Palm Swifts in flight…

“New section guys!” Shouts Julia every few minutes, as she records all the data.

Roger points to a ridge of the Rwenzori Mountains. “I’ve seen Angola Colobus up there,” he says.

I point to a Little Brown Bird. I know what it isn’t but I don’t know what it is. I have a feeling we haven’t counted it yet. “It’s a Tawny-flanked Prinia,” he corrects me, “a type of warbler.”

On Lake Kigere, we see four Yellow-billed ducks and – finally – two Great-crested Grebes!

This is the first in a series of blogs about the NatureUganda bird population monitoring of Kibale Conservation Area, which is carried out twice-yearly by a team from Sunbird Hill. The Kibale Conservation Area comprises Toro Semliki Wildlife Reserve, Semliki National Park, Kibale National Park (Sebitoli, Ngogo Road Kanyanchu, Mainara, Kanyawara), Lake Saka and Lake Bikere and Toro Botanical Gardens in Fort Portal and Katonga Wildlife Reserve.

Our friend Roger Skeen takes centre stage in many of my birding blogs. Here are a few favourites:

A birding safari here in my backyard. Traversing the swamp from Kampala en route to Port Bell

Operation Shoebill – Uganda’s Big Birding Day Mabamba Bay

A disgusting day out – counting vultures in Kampala’s abattoirs

Where shall we go birding next?

Love birds, butterflies and chimps? Then don’t miss Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge

Scroll down to read all about the half-day Sunbird Hill Experience!

Sunbird Hill Research and Monitoring Site in western Uganda is a haven for nature enthusiasts that have ticked off the Big Five and are ready to search for the smaller – yet equally impressive – creatures of Uganda.

Sunbird Hill is ideally situated for anyone planning to track the chimpanzees or the Green-breasted Pitta in Kibale Forest or for general birdwatching around Kibale Forest. It’s also a wonderful location to relax and enjoy the pure forest air and the natural sounds emanating from the forest. I’ve been visiting this fabulous part of Uganda regularly since 2009. One definite plus about visiting Sunbird Hill is having the chance to meet Julia Lloyd, the resident primatologist. If you love chimpanzees, you’ll be amazed at her stories of her many years living and working deep in Kibale Forest.

Derrick Kirungi. bird guide. Sunbird Hill Kibale forest edge
A morning spent birding with the  Sunbird Hill Club on the edge of Kibale Forest with Derrick and Sebastiano
Red-bellied paradise flycatcher on nest, Sunbird Hill
Red-bellied paradise flycatcher incubating eggs on its nest at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin
Green-breasted Pitta. Image courtesy of eGuide to Birds of East Africa
Next on my ‘must photograph bird list’ the Green-breasted Pitta. Image courtesy of eGuide to Birds of East Africa . Click on the bird to download this cool digital bird guide

National and international experts who visit Sunbird Hill on a regular basis include ornithologists, lepidopterists, herpetologists, botanists, entomologists and primatologists. Bird ringing (or banding) occurs periodically throughout the year. Bird ringing in Kibale Forest is one of my all-time favourite blogs. Contact me if you’d like to learn more about the next ringing trips.

What is Sunbird Hill?

Sunbird Hill is situated on 40 acres of private land bordering Kibale Forest. It is just off the Fort Portal – Kamwenge Road, 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre (base for chimpanzee tracking in Kibale National Park) and 3.5 km from KAFRED at Bigodi Wetlands Sanctuary.

Julia writes:

We are a British-Ugandan family passionate about wildlife and conservation. Our compound is a traditional open plan dwelling, with grass thatched houses, a treehouse, large elevated research office and a kitchen garden. Guests are welcome to stay in Butterfly Cottage, a brick and wood cottage that stands in its own compound next door to our family compound. For the more adventurous, we have a trio of elevated thatched cottages – with views of Kibale Forest – to house visiting biology experts. These are open to the occasional tourist too.

Sunbird Hill is regenerating farmland. This, and its location on the edge of the forest, means the land has numerous microhabitats that give it a high species richness: plants, insects, amphibians, reptiles and mammals and our main passion: birds. Species lists are constantly being updated, and so far we have recorded 14 of the 38 sunbird species listed for Uganda. The recent visit from ornithologist Roger Skeen has pushed our bird species list above the 240 mark. He was very excited to spot a Lemon Dove. We know there are many more birds yet to be identified at Sunbird Hill (and we challenge all visitors to add to our bird list!) We know that NatureUganda members will definitely add many more ticks to our list. We are proud winners of the 24 hour Big Birding Day four years in a row (category: Outside Protected Areas / Private Site).

Identifying a Sunbird. Sunbird Hill Kibale Forest
Identifying a Sunbird – not always easy, even with the bird guide!

Calls from wild chimpanzees are regularly heard, especially at night and early in the morning when chimps call out to each other from their night nests (making ‘contact calls’ as they are known in the primatological world). These primates are often seen when the fig tree at the end of our garden is laden with fruit; half of the tree’s canopy is in Kibale Forest National Park. Often elephants can be heard breaking trees during their nightly forages whilst the distinct calls of the resident Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl and Black-shouldered Nightjar reveal their identity.

Chimpanzee seen from Sunbird Hill. Kibale Forest, Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Chimpanzee eating figs in the Ficus Mucuso tree on the boundary of Kibale Forest, Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Julia Lloyd chimpanzee primatologist Kibale Forest
Annotated drawings of Kibale Forest’s chimpanzees decorate Julia’s treehouse office. Julia was part of the Jane Goodall Institute and Uganda Wildlife Authority team that habituated the chimps for tourism
Olive-bellied Sunbird. Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest. Photo Malcolm Wilson
Expert handling required. This Olive-bellied Sunbird was caught in a mist net at Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge so its biometric data could be recorded before it was ringed and released. Click on the bird to read one of Malcolm Wilson’s trip reports. Photo Malcolm Wilson
Big Birding Day winners 2017. Sunbird Hill, KAFRED Bigodi
In November 2017, the Sunbird Hill Bird Club joined forces with Bigodi to take part in the annual Big Birding Day. The team were thrilled to receive the award for “recording the highest number of bird species outside a protected area in 24 hours”
mist nets Sunbird Hill Kibale
Putting up mist nets on the edge of Kibale Forest. Keen birders are welcome to join one of the expert ringing (or banding) trips

Activities at Sunbird Hill

The Sunbird Hill Experience: explore our nature trails on the edge of Kibale Forest

The Sunbird Hill Experience is an immersive, half-day nature tour led by expert site guides. Kibale Forest edge, western Uganda

The Birders’ Lounge

Philip Briggs, Bradt author. Sunbird Hill Kibale Forest
The Birders’ Lounge is the perfect spot for armchair birding! It is also the meeting point for Sunbird Hill Bird Club. Philip Briggs, author of the Bradt Uganda guidebook joined us for a morning’s birding
Birders' Lounge Sunbird Hill, edge of Kibale Forest
A treasured butterfly identification book is a valuable reference tool in the Birders’ Lounge at Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest
Sunbird Hill, Kibale. butterfly identification
Correct species identification, citizen science and conservation training are key aspects of the Sunbird Hill philosophy. Here one of the site guides from Sunbird Hill peruses a list of butterflies.

The Birders’ Lounge is a large thatched bird-themed shelter that houses our growing reference library and covers topics including: ornithology, mammalogy, primatology, entomology, herpetology, and botany, as well as ecology, conservation and African travel. Comfortable chairs, desks and work benches are surrounded by Ugandan natural history paraphernalia. The garden around the Birders’ Lounge is full of native and naturalised flowering plants carefully selected to nurture a diversity of birds and butterflies – perfect for the armchair nature enthusiast (and those of you with heavy photographic equipment!) Our bird baths, bird hide, butterfly mud puddle and pond just keep pushing our species lists up!

Big Birding Day, Sunbird Hill, Kibale
Young birders get up early to take part in Big Birding Day!

Paths wind through the 40 acres of land that borders Kibale Forest taking you through forest edge, woodland, bushland, grassland, farmland, wetland, and riverine habitats. (Pre-booked) visitors are invited to follow the nature trails with one of our experienced site guides.

Sunbird Hill site bird guides. Big Birding Day team. Birders' Lounge
Sunbird Hill site bird guides and Trainees Ambrose, Derrick, Sebastiano and Dianah were part of the winning Big Birding Day team. Here they had been birding since midnight – just another 18 hours birding to go! Behind them is the Birders’ Lounge

Sunbird Hill was set up to support the local NGO In the Shadow of Chimpanzees. Our concept is that national and international experts train our Sunbird Hill team who in turn train the youth of Kyabakwerere Village in a diversity of wildlife identification and information whilst inspiring conservation. In the Shadow of Chimpanzees is setting up village tourism on a section of the Sunbird Hill land that is dedicated to community use. A butterfly house and gardens, medicinal plant garden, bee hives, and elephant trench have been initiated. And our football pitch is almost ready – you are welcome to join the team for a friendly kick around.

“Silver’s Story: A Walk with an Ex-Poacher” is one of our most popular activities. Silver has gained national recognition for his ex-poacher story. He laid down his weapons to join the Uganda Wildlife Authority as a ranger. Now retired, visitors can spend time with Silver and hear snippets about his expert animal tracking techniques and his main passion: butterflies.

On the Sunbird Hill Experience, one of the trained site guides will point out and provide insightful information on birds, butterflies, moths and plants as well as the occasional primate, reptile and amphibian sighting. What cannot be identified during the walk is photographed and identified at Sunbird Hill’s extensive reference library back at the Birders’ Lounge.

Malcolm Wilson Sunbird Hill Bird Club
Malcolm Wilson discusses bird identification at a ringing session with Sunbird Hill Bird Club. Look how keen everyone is to learn with Malcolm!
Malcolm Wilson ringing - Sunbird Hill Bird Club
Serious stuff! During a ringing session with Sunbird Hill Bird Club, Malcolm Wilson weighs each bird and records the biodata
bird ringing Sunbird Hill Bird Club Kibale Forest edge
A ringing session with Malcolm Wilson at Sunbird Hill Bird Club is always informative. I’ve learned so much from Malcolm, Uganda’s original bird guide trainer and a born teacher

Guests who are staying overnight at Sunbird Hill are welcome to join the Sunbird Hill Bird Club that meets 7.30 a.m. every Wednesday at the Birders’ Lounge. Bird Club includes a morning nature walk before heading back for refreshments, consultation with the reference books and documentation of our findings. As the birds quieten down, the Bird Club morphs into Butterfly Club, an interest that is growing rapidly among local guides.

Double-toothed Barbet, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge
You better watch out for that beak! The Double-toothed Barbet is a feisty chap. This one was caught and released as part of the bird monitoring scheme. Photo Roger Skeen

We live in a truly Ugandan village environment so if you would like to see more of the rural village of Kyabakwerere, a member of our staff will be happy to escort you.

Chimpanzee Tracking (Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park), Bigodi Swamp Walk (Bigodi) and Tooro Cultural Centre (Bigodi) are less than 10 minutes drive from Sunbird Hill.

Accommodation at Sunbird Hill

Butterfly Cottage has breath-taking views over the forest, with the chimps’ favourite – the statuesque fig trees – clearly in view from the large veranda. A spotting scope is available for viewing the birds, monkeys and chimpanzees (although note that seeing chimps  from Sunbird Hill can’t be guaranteed). The cottage has a comfortable double bed (twin beds are also available) with mosquito net, en-suite bathroom with warm shower and flush toilet, fridge, reliable lighting and charging facilities. It has a mezzanine floor where two single mattresses can be added.

Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill
Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill, overlooks Kibale National Park
Kibale Forest view. Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill
Kibale Forest seen from the veranda of Butterfly Cottage, Sunbird Hill
Treehouse, Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest edge
If you enjoy the dawn chorus, you’ll absolutely LOVE waking up in The Treehouse!

Eat in or out at Sunbird Hill

Butterfly Cottage, the three elevated cottages and the Treehouse are available on a ‘bed only’ basis. There is a well-equipped Camp Kitchen available for your use. Alternatively, you can order simple meals at 20,000 ugx per meal, when booked in advance at Sunbird Hill.

We also suggest eating (or getting delivery) from The Bee Hive Bar & Bistro opposite Bigodi Swamp just 3.5 km drive from Sunbird Hill. The Bee Hive has great views over Kibale Forest and has a reasonably priced local and international-style menu and bar (cold beers guaranteed!) The Bee Hive also has satellite TV (and back-up generator) and a pool table. Read more about Diary of a Muzungu’s visits to The Bee Hive here. It’s a great little place!

How much does it cost to visit Sunbird Hill?

Staying at Sunbird Hill is all about having access to The Birders’ Lounge, amazing habitats and the best site guides in western Uganda. This is reflected in the cost of the accommodation.
Butterfly Cottage is $135 per night based on two people sharing. For a fee of $10 each, extra mattresses can be set up in Butterfly Cottage.

The elevated cottages are $100 per night, based on two adults sharing. Add $20 per extra person (each elevated cottage has one double and two single beds). (The construction of the cottage makes it unsuitable for little children). 

The Treehouse – everyone’s childhood dream! – is cosy and self-contained with one double bed and is $100 per night based on 2 people sharing.

The above rates include accommodation, access to the Birders’ Lounge for armchair birding, use of the reference library and bird hide and a walk with our Site Guides. If you stay Tuesday night, participation in Wednesday Morning Bird Club is free of charge.

Wednesday Morning Bird Club Starts 7.30 am and lasts 3 – 5 hours
Overnight guests FREE
The Sunbird Hill Experience accompanied by our site guidesStart time is to suit you
Tourist price$30
Professional bird guidesFREE ENTRY when accompanying paying clients

The Sunbird Hill Experience bird / nature walk fees include tea and coffee and nibbles at the Birders’ Lounge. Cold beers, sodas, local gin tots and snacks are available at extra cost.

Please note: access to the nature trails is strictly only available to people who are accompanied by our site guides and who have booked and paid in advance. Be aware that you are not allowed to enter the National Park from Sunbird Hill.

Discounts are available to members of NatureUganda, NatureKenya, East African Natural History Society, Explorers’ Club, Lepidoptera Club of Africa & African Bird Club. (Proof of membership required). “We want you naturalists here!” Says Julia.

Directions. How to get to Sunbird Hill

Dillon, our youngest site guide, points the way!

Sunbird Hill is 3 km from Kanyanchu Tourist Centre, Kibale National Park and is 3.5 km from The Bee Hive Bar & Bistro in Bigodi off the Fort Portal-Kamwenge Road.

Keep up to date with Sunbird Hill via their Facebook page or WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 to make an enquiry. Booking in advance is essential.

Diary of a Muzungu adds:

Sunbird Hill is a favourite destination of mine. If you love nature and are looking for an authentic experience, in a relaxed homestay environment, this is it. Sunbird Hill isn’t run as a lodge so isn’t for your mainstream tourist. Early mornings are filled with splendid forest birdsong. At night you often hear the PANT HOOTS of chimps from the forest. It’s magical! (And if you’re serious about birding then you can’t miss a trip to this lovely corner of western Uganda).

Kenya

The Muzungu’s top 10 reasons for visiting #MagicalKenya 

Karen Blixen Camp seen from the river mara north conservancy

The divine Karen Blixen Camp seen from the river. In the Mara North Conservancy, the Maasai work with lodge owners to conserve wildlife

I LOVE Kenya – for a hundred – THOUSAND – reasons – but let’s just start with ten …

  1. Kenya is the home of the classic African safari and the Big Five
  2. Kenya is a vast country of contrasting landscapes
  3. Kenya has 48 national parks, reserves, marine parks and private sanctuaries
  4. Kenyans are world-class leaders in wildlife conservation. Read Why Kenya’s ivory burning makes sense #worthmorealive
  5. Kenya has 400 mammal species and 1057 bird species, the most of any country in Africa
  6. The Great Migration passes through Kenya’s Maasai Mara
  7. Kenyans are proud of their 42 tribal cultures, who play a big and colourful part in welcoming tourists
  8. Kenya offers an unmatched range of beach holidays, think: sunbathing, snorkelling, scuba diving, SUP Stand Up Paddling, kitesurfing, sailing
  9. English is widely spoken throughout Kenya. Swahili is the official language
  10. The East Africa Tourist Visa makes travel to Kenya, Uganda and Rwanda even better value

Famous as the birthplace of the African Safari, you can never tire of Kenya’s limitless attractions for visitors and incredible diversity of landscapes and natural diversity.

Giraffes on the horizon Mara Kenya Riz Jiwa Rizjiwa

Giraffes on the horizon. Photo Riz Jiwa rizjiwa@gmail.com

Kenya’s world-famous wildlife is exceptional by any standards, and is protected in 48 national parks, reserves, marine parks and private sanctuaries, although many say that it is outside Africa’s national parks that the majority of wildlife still resides (meaning those animals need greater protection too).

Sleeping Warrior. flamingos. Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp. Soysambu Conservancy

The ‘Sleeping Warrior’ AKA Lord Delamere’s Nose is a stunning backdrop to views of flamingos from Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp

Have you visited a conservancy? I loved my three days at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp in the Soysambu Conservancy in Kenya’s Rift Valley.

Read 10 fascinating flamingo facts (I bet you didn’t know). Lake Elmenteita is a birder’s paradise! (And a superb place for horse riding; game drives to see eland, Rothschild’s giraffes and leopard; the lakeshore breakfast among flamingos and pelicans was unforgettable too!)

Hot air ballooning safari: the sun rises over the Maasai Mara, Kenya – the GoPro view! from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

Kenya offers visitors an infinite array of authentic wildlife experiences, on land, on the ocean, and even from the air!

great-migration-mara-kenya-riz-jiwa-rizjiwagmail

Great Migration, Maasai Mara, Hot Air Balloon Safaris. Photo Riz Jiwa rizjiwa@gmail.com

Kenya is most famous for the million and a half Wildebeest (and other four-legged friends) that, twice yearly, traverse the Maasai Mara in the epic migration.

Cheetah with three cubs, Maasai Mara safari, Kenya from @CharlieBeau Diary of a Muzungu on Vimeo.

Lesser-known ecotourism attractions include the Marine Big Five: sea turtles, dolphins, whales, whale sharks and billfish.

Hawksbill Turtles. Photo Turtle Bay Dive Centre Watamu, Kenya

Hawksbill Turtles. Photo Turtle Bay Dive Centre Watamu

Did you know you can now experience the Twin Migration – uniquely – in Kenya? Watch the migration in the Mara and watch whales migrate along the coast too! Read all about whale watching trips from Watamu.

The highest point is the snowcapped peak of Mount Kenya, the intersection of the Equator and the Great Rift Valley.

Kenya is a geographer and naturalist’s dream: a country the size of France and Spain combined, featuring mountains, extinct volcanoes, soda lakes, Equatorial rainforest, alpine glaciers and arid deserts.

On the Indian Ocean coast, the white sandy beaches of Watamu, Malindi, Lamu and Mombasa, and the Swahili coast’s blend of African and Arab cultures, add an extra dimension to this must-visit country. Read 17 must-try experiences in Mombasa. Snorkeling-Watamu-beach-Kenya-Diary-of-a-Muzungu

The snorkeling in Watamu is out of this world. Diary of a Muzungu on the beach at Watamu, Kenya

swimming-pool-medina-palms-watamu-kenya-coast

TripAdvisor Winner 2015: Medina Palms’ clients voted this resort the BEST of all hotels, lodges and establishments across the whole country. A series of infinity pools lead down to the white powder sand beach

With eight swimming pools cascading down to the Indian Ocean, Swahili Beach Resort in Diani is high on my list of places for ‘a proper holiday.’🌴🍹🌊🥥👙⛱️

Read Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger.

Swahili Beach Resort Diani Kenya

The 5 star Swahili Beach Resort in Diani – SWOON! Click on the image above to read my blog and view a gallery of this resort’s amazing architecture and interiors

Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple, Haile Selassie Avenue, Mombasa Island

A technicolor start to our morning’s sightseeing in Mombasa. Shree Cutch Satsang Swaminarayan Temple, Haile Selassie Avenue

When it comes to food, I can’t think of any better combination than the Kenyan coast combination of fresh seafood and spices: crab samosas, fresh fish and lobster, with a Swahili twist (washed down with an ice-cold Tusker beer, of course!)

bomas-shuka-maasai-tusker-nairobi

Enjoying a cold Tusker at the Bomas, Nairobi

Kenya is famous for her colourful human culture, notably the Maasai, the Samburu and the Turkana, just three of the country’s 42 tribes.

Kenya’s rich heritage can be traced back a staggering 4.5 million years. Didn’t we all come from Africa once?

nairobi-uhuru-gardens-walking-to-school

Walking to school through Uhuru Gardens, Central Business District, Nairobi. In November, the Jacaranda trees are in full and glorious blossom

I love Nairobi more every visit. The streets are becoming more familiar to me now: I LOVE this incredible video!

Nairobi- A Timelapse Portrait from xixo collective on Vimeo.

The capital Nairobi is the only African city with a national park in its centre. Even if you don’t get a chance to leave the city perimeter, it’s still possible to go on a game drive if you are visiting Nairobi. Read my blog all about Nairobi National Park: the muzungu’s first city safari!

Nairobi National Park

If you’ve seen the incongruous-looking photographs of wildlife in front of a modern urban background, then you may know I’m talking about Nairobi National Park (which is actually IN Kenya’s capital, making it very accessible for weekend or business visitors).

I recently stayed at the 5 star Nairobi Serena Hotel, conveniently situated on a quiet and leafy corner of the Central Business District. The hotel has been totally refurbished and offers a complimentary Architectural, Cultural and Conservation to guests. The creativity is quite mind-blowing! If you’re a fan of African history and culture, the Murumbi Gallery and Heritage House, you must read How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel. 

wood carvings Bambara Lounge, Nairobi Serena Hotel Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour

Admire the fabulous wood carvings in the Bambara Lounge, Nairobi Serena Hotel on the Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour

brass trinket. Nairobi Serena Hotel Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour

This delicate brass box derives from West Africa. Isn’t it gorgeous? Click on the images to see more artefacts you can see on the Nairobi Serena’s Architectural, Cultural and Conservation Tour

Did you know…? The East Africa Tourist Visa makes it easier and cheaper to combine a trip to Kenya with a visit to Uganda and Rwanda. Read the Muzungu’s definitive guide to the East Africa Tourist Visa here.

I’ve only just skimmed the surface of what Kenya has to offer as a tourism destination but the country has blown my tiny little mind, I can tell you!

Lunatic-Express-Nairobi-Mombasa-view

View from the Lunatic Express train from Nairobi to Mombasa

If you are travelling between Kampala to Nairobi, you might enjoy reading my cross-border bus journeys.

Travelling between Nairobi and the Mombasa coast? The photo above was taken on the Lunatic Express train – a real highlight of my travels across East Africa. It’s been replaced by the rather less romantic – but infinitely more reliable – Standard Gauge Railway (SGR) train. Read my detailed comparison between the bus and the train journey between Nairobi and Mombasa here in Brief encounter – of romance and railways.

Keep reading Diary of a Muzungu for more travel tips and adventures from across Kenya and East Africa.

Operation Shoebill: Uganda’s Big Birding Day 24-hour race

Operation Shoebill: first-hand experience of Uganda’s Big Birding Day annual 24 hour bird race at Mabamba Bay

So why precisely have I got up well before dawn – on a Saturday – to drive for three hours in a cramped minibus to sit in an old boat?

Shoebill Stork in flight. PHOTO Ronan Donovan and Wild Frontiers Uganda www.wildfrontiers.co.ug
Reason enough to get up very early indeed on a Saturday – what a bird: the Shoebill. Big Birding Day Uganda. PHOTO Ronan Donovan and Wild Frontiers Uganda www.wildfrontiers.co.ug

It’s that time of year again: Uganda’s annual Big Birding Day, a 24-hour contest in which birders compete to see who can rack up the score for the highest number of bird species. The early bird catches the worm… or so they say. (This silly early bird didn’t even remember to catch breakfast, and now I’m sitting hungry in the middle of a huge swamp, miles from anywhere … oh damn you and your insatiable Muzungu appetite for cappuccino…)

On the shores of Lake Victoria about 50 km west of Kampala lie the vast swamps of Mabamba, one of Uganda’s few remaining swamps that are protected by the local communities.

Classified as an Important Bird Area, Mabamba Bay is home to Uganda’s most famous bird: the iconic Shoebill.

Mabamba Bay Swamp boat. Uganda’s Big Birding Day
Operation Shoebill: first-hand experience of Uganda’s Big Birding Day 24 hour race at Mabamba Bay. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin

Would our Big Birding Day team get lucky and see a Shoebill at Mabamba Bay?

A couple of rickety-looking boats greet us on the edge of Mabamba Swamp. With giggles of excitement, the team’s boats head off into the Papyrus.

Pair of Grey Crowned Cranes. Big Birding Day. PHOTO Kaj Ostergaard
Pair of Grey Crowned Cranes. Uganda’s Big Birding Day 24 hour race

A pair of Grey Crowned Cranes (referred to locally in Uganda as Crested Cranes) fly overhead. It’s like a statement:  you have officially landed in Uganda’s wetlands. The fabulous Crested Crane adorns Uganda’s national coat of arms and makes its home in the wetlands (or what is left of them).

Our boats are surrounded by vibrant green, dotted with shimmering, purple water lilies, the cool morning mist rising from the crystal-clear waters.

A vibrant blue and orange Malachite Kingfisher poses delicately on a Papyrus stem as our boat pushes through the vegetation.

I spot a Northern Brown-throated Weaver (pale brown with an orange beak) at the base of some reeds. (I can’t say I know exactly what it is, but I’m the first to spot it! You don’t need to be an expert to take part in Big Birding Day; just quickly point out the moving blocks of colour to your more knowledgeable teammates).

The narrow waterways cutting through the swamp allow one, maximum two, narrow boats to pass. Travelling in a low-lying boat means you are at eye-level with so many of the birds at the water’s edge. It’s magic.

Purple Waterlillies. Big Birding Day. PHOTO Kaj Ostergaard
Purple Waterlillies contrast beautifully with the abundant lush greenery of the swamp. Uganda’s Big Birding Day. PHOTO Kaj Ostergaard

The narrow labyrinth of channels opens out into a wide freshwater lagoon.

We spot a Yellow-billed Duck in flight, a Squacco Heron amongst the reeds, and several Long-toed Lapwings, just a number of the iconic wetland birds you can see at Mabamba.

As our Shoebill comes into sight, everyone in the boat stands up (precariously tipping the boat to one side of course!)

Shoebill Stork, Mabamba Swamp. Big Birding Day. PHOTO Nick Sausen
Shoebill Stork, Mabamba Swamp. Big Birding Day. PHOTO Nick Sausen

The dark grey, funny-looking character stands an impressive five feet tall and stares back at us. A cross between a Stork and a Pelican, this prehistoric-looking bird dines on a menu of lungfish and frogs. Oh yum! (Mabamba is one of many places in Uganda you can see the Shoebill, but arguably the most accessible since it’s a short hop from Entebbe or Kampala. The excellent, mid-range Nkima Forest Lodge is just a few minutes from Mabamba Bay).

A pair of magnificent Blue-breasted Bee-eaters entertain us, while the Shoebill looks on, seriously, just ten or so metres from our boat. The Shoebill moves his head from side to side as our Mabamba guide educates us about this fascinating bird. There are just two or three pairs of Shoebills breeding in Mabamba, all under the watchful eye of the local community.

We look in vain for the Lesser Jacana, to the disappointment of our guide, who has a mental checklist of the birds he has hoped to record for Big Birding Day. Mabamba birds we do spot include Pink-backed Pelican, Saddle-billed Stork, African Fish Eagle, Purple Swamphen, Giant Kingfisher, Swamp Flycatcher and Weynn’s Weaver.

Pied Kingfisher Mabamba Swamp. Big Birding Day.
Pied Kingfisher poses on Papyrus, Mabamba Swamp. Big Birding Day

There is no protection from the sun when you are out on the open water. Cue: return to land, for a soda and a chapatti from the local snack stall. Refreshed, and with the Big Birding Day clock ticking, the competitive streak kicks in and the Big Birding Day team marches uphill towards some tall trees. En route we add a Fan-tailed Widowbird to our list.

Leaving Mabamba is a series of smaller Papyrus Swamps where we see locally occurring ‘endemic species’ such as the striking Papyrus Gonolek, White-winged Warbler and Carruther’s Cisticcola.

Uganda – ‘the birding mecca’ of Africa

Our tiny country is home to over 1000 bird species, almost 50% of Africa’s bird species. In addition to the 1000+ resident species, millions of birds migrate across Ugandan skies en route to summer alternately in South Africa and Europe.

Every year families, conservationists and the tourism industry come together to celebrate Uganda’s Big Birding Day, a series of fun conservation events celebrating birds. Young or old, an amateur or a professional ‘twitcher,’ Big Birding Day has something for everyone.

With a score of 114 species identified by the end of Big Birding Day 2013, our Mabamba team ranked a decent 9th out of 73 teams participating nationwide.

Big Birding Day
Be part of something BIG – Big Birding Day Uganda: a 24 hour birding contest across the country

How can you take part in Big Birding Day?

Expert bird guides from NatureUganda, Uganda Wildlife Authority staff and Uganda Bird Guides Club lead participants in the main event, a 24-hour bird watching contest. Big Birding Day includes free guided nature walks at dozens of sites across Uganda. Uganda Wildlife Authority provide free entry to the country’s National Parks, Wildlife and Forest Reserves on Big Birding Day (provided you register in advance).

Uganda’s Big Birding Day takes place every November. Registration is through Nature Uganda email bbd@natureuganda.org Twitter @NatureUganda and Facebook www.facebook.com/NatureUganda.

I can’t be on the winning Big Birding Day team every year – or can I? 😉

Bird watching on the Kazinga Channel – a 21st century Safari!

Bird watching: a 21st-century Safari! Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park

Have you noticed that the more Safaris you go on, the smaller the animal that catches your eye? It could be the butterflies or the reptiles; for some it’s even the insects! But, increasingly, with a pair of binoculars and a professional guide, it’s our feathered friends that are causing the excitement.

African Fish Eagles. Uganda birds. Sherry McElvie Wildlife Photography

African Fish Eagles. PHOTO Sherry McElvie Wildlife Photography

What is it about birds?

Few areas of the world can boast over 600 bird species; Uganda’s Queen Elizabeth National Park – one of the world’s most biodiverse Protected Areas – is one.

Queen Elizabeth, an area covering 1978 km², owes its rich biodiversity to its variety of habitats: Savannah, freshwater lakes, grasslands, swamps, Acacia and Euphorbia bush, salty crater lakes, moist tropical forest and more. It contains a Ramsar site (protected wetlands of international importance) and an IBA (Important Bird Area). Thus a trip to Queen Elizabeth is a trip to many different habitats with many different types of birds, some of them endemic – that’s to say unique to that particular place. The time of year will also affect which birdlife you will see, as many non-native species migrate over the country en route between Europe and summer nesting sites in South Africa.

Euphorbia cactus, Mweya, Queen Elizabeth Uganda

Euphorbia cactus, Mweya Peninsula, Queen Elizabeth National Park Uganda. In the far distance is the DR Congo

Birdlife in Queen Elizabeth shows biodiversity at its best. Nature has adapted birds to fit every variety of habitat: it’s all about survival, and each bird’s characteristics have evolved to suit its particular ecological niche. Did you know… Queen Elizabeth National Park has more bird species than any other of Uganda’s National Parks?

Where is the best place to see birds in Queen Elizabeth?

A boat ride along the Kazinga Channel and the Mweya Peninsula joining Lakes George and Edward is an ideal starting point.

From the enormous Goliath Heron, a statuesque 1 metre high, to the tiny jewel-like Malachite Kingfisher, Queen Elizabeth’s bird life offers something for everyone to admire.

Blue breasted Beeeater Kaj Ostergaard

Blue breasted Bee eater. PHOTO Kaj Ostergaard

As our boat slowly meandered along the Kazinga Channel towards Lake Edward, our excellent Uganda Wildlife Authority guide Bernard listed the different bird species we passed.

Highlights included: Common Squacco Heron, Greenshank, Wood Sandpiper, Common Godwit, and a Water Thick-knee (a Wader with big eyes) feeding on the shore; and a lone African Spoonbill (its bill really does look like a spoon!) behind them.

We admired the gorgeous monochrome Sacred Ibis with its elegant curved beak; handsome Egyptian Geese and a Eurasian Marsh Harrier and an African Fish Eagle looking down at us from a tall tree.

Flocks of loud, luminous Glossy Starlings flitted from bush to bush; vibrant Madagascar Bee-eaters and beautiful little, water-loving Blue Breasted Bee-eaters hovered in and around the burrows they’ve excavated out of the earth banks.

Pelican. Uganda birds. Sherry McElvie Wildlife Photography

Pelican. PHOTO Sherry McElvie Wildlife Photography

Pied (black and white) Kingfishers are a common sight, hovering in the air before plunging beak first into the water – an incredible 1,900 were recorded one July – and Yellow-billed Oxpeckers perch on the backs of Buffalo, removing their ticks (an arrangement that suits both parties well!)

Uganda’s famous scrawny old men of the bird world, the famous Marabou Stork, are residents of the Kazinga Channel too. These ugly birds are surprisingly elegant – just see them glide atop the thermals.

Marabou Stork, Mweya, Queen Elizabeth National Park

Marabou Stork outside UWA’s Tembo Canteen on Mweya Peninsula, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Kazinga Channel in the background

As we approached the lake, flocks of thousands of birds flew off in a circle above our heads alighting again on the sandbars at the water’s edge : White-winged Terns, Great and Long-tailed Cormorants, African Skimmers (Queen Elizabeth is the easiest place to see these large birds), Great White and Pink-backed Pelicans, the psychedelic Saddle billed Stork, and Great White Egrets.

What a spectacular sight!

Sacred Ibis. Uganda birds. Sherry McElvie Wildlife Photography

Sacred Ibis. PHOTO Sherry McElvie Wildlife Photography

Back on the Mweya Peninsula, look out for the enormous nest of the “King birds”, the Hammerkop, the biggest nest of its type (also home to the occasional snake!) and a favourite vantage point for Eagle Owls. With more time, a visit to Munyanyange Crater Lake north of Katwe is an absolute must – over 2,000 Lesser Flamingos were counted there one February.

As for the famous yet elusive Shoebill? Well, you’ll just have to ask your guide nicely if he’ll venture into the dense papyrus beds of Lake Kikorongo to spot one!

Bird watching Lake Nyamunuka crater lake, north of Mweya, Queen Elixabeth National Park

This is my dad! Looking for birds but actually spotting buffalo and hippo on Lake Nyamunuka crater lake, north of Mweya, Queen Elizabeth National Park

Is bird watching in Queen Elizabeth on your itinerary?

It certainly should be!

Birding is just one of the many different wildlife experiences Queen Elizabeth has to offer.

The Uganda Wildlife Authority’s mongooses experience is another fascinating day out.

There are some very cool local community tourism projects, too, promoted by UCOTA.

Visiting Deo the farmer and the elephant trench in Ishasha, excavated thanks to the Uganda Conservation Foundation, is another brilliant tourism experience.

How about a morning game drive to see the lions?

Lions in Queen Elizabeth safari Uganda

Sometimes you don’t need a telephoto lens! This gorgeous pair just strolled right past our car… early morning lions in Queen Elizabeth National Park,Uganda

Have you been bird watching in Queen Elizabeth National Park?

Where is your favourite place to watch birds in Uganda?

Let me know in the comments 🙂

Birds send my heart a flutter …

My favourite birdwatching stories from Uganda

Similar in size to Great Britain, Uganda’s unique geographical positioning in the Great Rift Valley makes the country home for an astonishing 50% of Africa’s birds. Diverse habitats such as open savannah, montane and Equatorial rainforests, rivers, marshlands, fresh water and crater lakes combine to give Uganda an enviable bird list of over 1,060 species!

Uganda boasts an incredible 34 Important Bird Areas (IBAs), sites of global conservation importance, not just for birds but for mammals, fish, reptiles and insects. 22 IBAs are within the national protected areas and all twelve of Uganda’s Ramsar sites (internationally protected wetlands) are IBAs.

If you like birds – like I do! – then you will just LOVE Uganda! I’ve met many people who had never really noticed birds until they came here –  and returned to Europe ‘birding converts.’

Identifying a Sunbird, Birdwatching Uganda
Birdwatching Uganda. Identifying a Sunbird – not always easy, even when an expert has a bird guidebook! 

Here are a few of my favourite birding moments:

A forest wakes up (AKA birdwatching my way through lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest) is dedicated to the hornbills, turacos, barbets, starlings and monkeys I see from my wooden house on the edge of the forest.

The Shoebill is one of Uganda’s most iconic birds. Pushing through the lillies and Papyrus of Mabamba Swamp on Big Birding Day in search of my first Shoebill sighting was a day I will never forget.

Shoebill, Murchison Falls National Park Uganda. Photo Ronan Donovan
Shoebill, Murchison Falls National Park Uganda. Photo Ronan Donovan

A day in the life … species by species. Uganda may not have the same change of seasons as Europe (but the insects don’t know that). I watch the seaons change in Uganda through the medium of entymology.

A bird’s eye view of Uganda – Big Birding Day  Up before dawn to take part in the Big Birding Day, a 24 hour birding race covering 33 sites across Uganda. Our team recorded 606 species! And the best bit? Our team won!

For three years I was part of the volunteer team helping make Big Birding Day even BIGGER! To tie in with this event and the country’s 50 years of independence, Africa on the Blog published my article on how birding tourism can be used to help develop Uganda and support poor rural communities. Read “Birding@50” – Save Uganda’s Beautiful Crested Crane.

Child, Klaas' Cuckoo, Kibale Forest, Uganda birds, Birdwatching Uganda
Dillon eyes up a spectacular Klaas’ Cuckoo, Kibale Forest bird ringing, Sunbird Hill

A ticking off – bird ringing in Kibale Forest was a very cool way to spend two days.

Incredibly rich in animal life, Kibale Forest is a place of many firsts for me. Even after three years working in conservation, Mother Nature had still been holding back on me: this particular Kibale Forest trip I saw my first wild chimp, my first Red Colobus Monkey, my first Green Mamba! But these were all unexpected bonuses – we’d actually traveled to Kibale Forest to ring birds.

Look up! Urban birding Kampala-style is the Muzungu’s view from Long Crested Towers – my home in Bukasa. Kampala is a dusty, polluted city of 2 million inhabitants. Yet, with over 300 bird species, the city is still a birder’s dream …

Hooded Vulture soaring above Kampala. PHOTO Achilles Byaruhanga
Hooded Vulture soaring above Kampala. PHOTO Achilles Byaruhanga

Populations of the 11 species of African vulture have declined considerably. In A disgusting day out I took part in NatureUganda’s annual vulture count – and a gory tour of the very smelly outdoor Busega fish factory and the formidable Kalerwe Abattoir, on the look-out for Hooded Vultures, Pied Crows, Brown Kites and Marabou Storks.

NatureUganda Vulture Count Kampala, Uganda birds
Hammerkop and large numbers of Marabou Storks overseeing the fish processing near Nateete, Kampala
Birdwatching Uganda. A birding muzungu at Sipi Falls, eastern Uganda
Birdwatching Uganda. A birding muzungu at Sipi Falls, eastern Uganda

Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers may remember my love-hate relationship with the Kingfisher that woke me up at 5.30 am PRECISELY every day for almost 4 years. I frequently curse him but I thought I’d lost him at one point – as I explain in the Kingfisher and I.

A birding Safari here in my backyard is one of my favourite birding walks, from Namuwongo in Kampala down to Port Bell on Lake Victoria. Baldrick was so tired, we had to drag him home! It was a great day for my growing bird list though ;) so do check it out!

Male birders Uganda
Roger and Nathan bird watching on Entebbe Peninsula. Big Birding Day 2010 – the year our team won!

I’m part of the volunteer team helping make Big Birding Day even Bigger!

A bird’s eye view of Uganda – Big Birding Day  A 24 hour birding race across 33 sites. Together we recorded 606 species. And the best bit? Our team won!

These are just a few of my many Uganda birding stories.

Do you like birdwatching? If you’re planning a trip to Uganda, check out the tour operators in my Travel Directory or drop me a line for some personal recommendations.

Advice for women birders!

Assertiveness Training for Women Birders by Lorna Salzman

The Muzungu with young birder Hope at Kasenge, Uganda. International Day of the Safari Guide
The Muzungu with young birder Hope at Kasenge on International Day of the Safari Guide. Photo courtesy of Titus Kakembo and Uganda Tourism Press Association

Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know how crazy I am about birds.

Thanks to Lorna Salzman for allowing me to republish this great article. I found it quite illuminating! And it might explain why in Uganda – a society that is dominated by men in almost every sphere – there are few female birdwatchers. Ladies of Uganda, please do not be dissuaded – read on! Gentlemen, this is quite educational.

This is a copy of an article written by Lorna Salzman in 2002, based on her personal experience. For background to the article, please scroll down the page.

Some people still think birding is a backyard hobby of little old ladies in tennis sneakers. In fact it has become a highly competitive contact sport for macho types, who vastly outnumber females in the field.

Looking at the strongly skewed ratio of male to female birders, it becomes clear that there must be special hazards and risks that discourage women from participating in this popular sport. And in much the same way that obstacles to women in other competitive sports have been gradually overcome, it is incumbent on the presently male-dominated birding community to overturn the barriers to female participation so as to achieve gender parity in the field.

The general dangers presented to all birders are always with us: ticks, snakes, chiggers, mosquitoes, jaguars, Montezuma’s Revenge and rental car breakdowns, though these are not found necessarily in the same place at the same time. Through the rapid communication offered by the internet and by specialized publications and bird clubs, birders have quickly learned how to minimize these omnipresent risks. With the exception of the professional trip leader who decided to investigate on behalf of his group a loud noise in the Indian jungle and was later found half-eaten by a tiger, most birders have learned how to keep insects more or less at bay, how to walk carefully on an untrodden trail, and how to recognize jaguar tracks. In any case, the risks posed by wildlife in the United States are generally far less than those of tropical countries.

But there is another risk that is ubiquitous, on all continents and in all climates, which uniquely targets women birders, and which requires careful, calculated responses: men. In order to sensitize themselves to this special hazard, and most of all to develop appropriate defensive measures, women need to understand the behavior and ecology of the male sex, or rather of that morph of the male sex whose niche lies in bird habitats.

All male birders should be regarded as alpha males, even those lacking the typical physical characteristics. Many of these who might otherwise have served in the US Marines or in major league football are, either literally or figuratively, 90-pound weaklings who never read a Charles Atlas ad or assumed it didn’t apply to them. But it does apply, whether they are 5’5″ or 6″6″‘ tall, because if they are the former, that makes them even more aggressive and competitive. Thus, women, on encountering male birders in the wild, should assume the worst and not judge male physical size and bulk alone.

African Fish Eagles on the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park
African Fish Eagles on the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park

While some men may lack the physical equipment of alpha males, size matters in one crucial respect: binoculars. Apparently the binocular manufacturers are colluding with male birders. If you look carefully, you will see that nearly all the new improved binoculars advertised to and bought by the birding community are ten power rather than the old-fashioned seven or eight power type. And although new light materials are used, the new ten power binocs are extremely expensive and often heavier than the old type.

An analysis of these facts tells us that the manufacturers took the male birders aside and whispered in their ears: “Psst, I’ve got a great deal for you. These binoculars are very expensive so frugal women won’t buy them, and best of all they are too big and heavy for most women to carry, so you can spot those rare birds faster than they can”. A male birder hearing this is hooked because it means that he can make a rapid identification before the woman can focus on the bird, and in most cases the bird will already have flushed before she sees it, thus insuring that she cannot challenge the man’s ID.

It is important to understand the primary differences between men and women birders.

They have not only different behavior but different objectives and therefore different strategies. In the field these will frequently clash. Therefore Assertiveness Training is a fundamental prerequisite for women before they can hold their own. The male goals are:

  • maximization of species numbers;
  • being the first to spot a new bird;
  • finding a rarity.

Anything that interferes with or poses an obstacle to these is considered detrimental and hostile, and the male behavioral response to such obstacles is calculated accordingly.

Female birders’ objectives – and thus their strategies – are diametrically opposed to those of men: to have fun, learn about the ecology of birds, see interesting habitat and appreciate Nature. Thus, they should expect their presence in particular and participation in general to be regarded by male birders as hostile. With a little practice the following recommendations of adaptive behavior in the field should become second nature to women birders.

1. Your first impression is always correct. If you think you see a black bird with a yellow head, you have indeed seen one, even if this is literally your first foray into the field. Don’t let any male question your observation. You were right.

2. There are no “rare” birds. Most birds called “rare” by men are birds they studied with extreme care and memory training in a book, not birds they ever actually saw in their lifetime. In practice the birds called “rare” by men (and few will dare to challenge them) will be those that no one else saw or was able to see, such as the out-of-range Manx shearwater seen fifteen miles away on the horizon of a black ocean, on an overcast morning, during a pelagic trip 80 miles out to sea, with eight -foot swells and a wildly rocking boat. (I was on that boat so I know whereof I speak.)

If you find yourself in that situation, pull out your bird book and give the man a quiz: ask him to provide every field mark he saw and prove to everyone’s satisfaction that it was indeed a Manx. This may take some courage but you need not worry that his troops will come to his rescue; they are all inside the cabin, eyes closed, manifesting a peculiar shade of yellowish-green.

(Note: all beginning birders will sooner or later see a “rare” bird but eventually as the birders become more experienced, those rare sightings will diminish and eventually disappear).

Jacana bird on River Nile Jinja
Jacana bird on River Nile Jinja

3. Vernacular and traditional names are still valid such as Baltimore oriole and Myrtle warbler. Or Bluebill or timberdoodle. (Caution: the old-time vernacular for cormorants is disallowed). Don’t let the self-styled male experts intimidate you or demand that you recite the full list of the most recent AOU species splits. Traditional and vernacular names are a vital part of birding history and culture so use them at every opportunity to keep birding a popular, not an elitist, pastime.

4. It is better to be a Splitter than a Lumper nowadays. Scientific advances in DNA analysis mean that new species are being split off from previous parent species faster than you can say “Drink your tea”. But of course this can change so be alert.

5. DON’T, I repeat, don’t memorize birds from the book and then take off looking for them hither and thither. You will end up seeing memorized birds in wholly inappropriate habitats and will look foolish. Even worse, the B3 (Black Belt Birders, the avian equivalent of the Mafia) will put out a contract on you.

This happened on a trip in South America where a male, not a female, tripmate, having read about an ancient Oilbird spotting in the area, identified a single supposed Oilbird flying up a tiny stream at final dusk. He wasn’t concerned about the fact that South America has only a handful of Oilbird cave colonies, separated by hundreds or thousands of miles, or that Oilbirds emerge at night and travel huge distances to feed in huge flocks not on riverine vegetation but solely on oil palms, or that the bird he saw was about one quarter the size of an Oilbird. But the B3 were just getting organized so the spotting of the purported Oilbird – in reality a small duck — went unpunished. Today that spotter would be kneecapped had he been a woman, but being a man he got off with a light sentence: stepping out of a small boat, he slipped and fell into thick black mud up to his keister [kabina].

6. Be suspicious of any male birder who scorns the “clock” method of locating birds in a tree. This is hostility in the extreme because it is intended to impair or delay the enjoyment of the other birders.

This method, which uses the highest central point of the tree as high noon, and the sides of the tree as a.m. and p.m., is extremely useful and works very well, saving a lot of time for less experienced birders who might otherwise search every leaf and never find the bird. The same men who scorn the clock method are the ones who call out a new bird and, when asked where it is, hem and haw and say: well, I guess it’s out there in that tall tree between that small green shrub and that other tree, guaranteeing that by the time you have found the right tree the bird is gone. So the Guy chalks up the bird on his list and the others don’t.

This is what could be called Arboreal Upsmanship.

Dillon eyes up a spectacular Klaas' Cuckoo
Dillon eyes up a spectacular Klaas’ Cuckoo

7. If you are a woman birder, NEVER bird in a group unless there is at least one other woman present, stick together, support each other, point out the birds to each other before you point them out to the men, and always take the offensive, not the defensive. If you see a new or unusual bird, do not under any circumstances allow your attention to be diverted away from the bird! Continue to study the bird and its characteristics and behavior, while noting its presence out loud so others can hear, but do not take down your binoculars or look away until you have examined it as best you can. All around you men will be demanding that you specify where it is; do not let them distract you until you are sure you have seen everything you need to see. You can be sure that if the situation were reversed, they would not defer to you.

Hold your ground.

8. On pelagic trips, always stand at the rail and never move away. When a bird is spotted and everyone crowds to the rail, remember that the men are taller than you and can see over or around you quite well. They can take care of themselves.

Finally, some words of encouragement for those women birders who have unwittingly and unwillingly let themselves become awed by male birders:

Whatever happens, it’s not your fault. The men are not always right. You are having more fun. (Note: names have been withheld to protect the innocent; the guilty will recognize themselves. All situations and incidents, however, are taken from real life).

Male birders Uganda
Male birders in action! Expert bird guide friends Nathan and Roger Skeen on Entebbe Peninsula during Big Birding Day 2010

For identification purposes: Lorna Salzman, an environmental activist and writer, has traveled widely with her husband on most continents to see birds. She does not keep totals of birds seen.

Lorna Salzman 2002. Assertiveness Training for Women Birders.

If you’ve read this far, you must be a birder! Have you seen this kind of behaviour out in the field in Uganda?

Do you think Lorna is right? I’d love to hear from you 😉