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Episode 5. Introducing My East Africa … but first some Great Blue Turaco birds

In episode five, join me – Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu – as I introduce you to East Africa, specifically “my East Africa.”

  • How many countries are there in East Africa? (You might be surprised!)
  • What are Uganda’s most popular tourist attractions?
  • What are “The Big Seven”?
  • Beyond gorillas: which Rwandan forest has chimps and Colobus monkeys?
  • What’s the muzungu’s favourite way to travel between Nairobi and Kenya’s coast?
  • What’s my favourite food in Burundi?
  • And, which wild animal did I disturb when I arrived back in the forest last week?

Scroll down for a full transcript of this week’s episode.

Episode 4. Tickling a rhino and bowing to the Shoebill. In conversation with Rob Walker

In episode four, join me – Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu – as I introduce you to my second guest, the British TV presenter and Uganda’s goodwill sports tourism ambassador, Rob Walker. Tune in to hear:

  • What first brought Rob to East Africa?
  • How did Ugandans respond when Rob congratulated Joshua Cheptegai during his live commentary from the Olympics?
  • Why is he so keen to bring his son to Africa?
  • What are his favourite Ugandan foods?
  • And how exactly do you greet a Shoebill bird?

Scroll down for a full transcript of this week’s episode.

Episode 3. Gorilla tracking in Uganda. In conversation with the Nnaabagereka, Queen Sylvia of Buganda

In episode three, join me – Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu – as we visit Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda, home to the world’s biggest population of mountain gorillas, for a weekend celebrating 20 years of the NGO Conservation Through Public Health.

I am joined by my first guest, Her Royal Highness, the Nnaabagareka, Queen Sylvia Nagginda of Buganda Kingdom, patron of CTPH. Listen to our conversation to hear:

  • Why was the Nnaabagareka tracking gorillas?
  • Which gorilla family did she track in the forest?
  • Why does she recommend Ugandans visit Bwindi?
  • Why did I feel like crying when I first went to Bwindi?
  • Why should we thank the gorillas?

Scroll down for a full transcript of this week’s episode.

Episode 2. Chimps, elephants and how I ended up in Uganda

In the second episode, join me – Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu – as I invite you to explore Uganda. Find out:

  • What’s life like on the edge of a National Park?
  • How did we spend lockdown?
  • What inspired me to create this podcast?
  • What wakes me up every morning?
  • What amazing sight did I see climbing over the treehouse?
  • What kind of guests will we meet on the podcast?
  • What are my tips for gorilla tracking?
  • And how can I help you organise a safari?

Scroll down for a full transcript of this week’s episode.

Episode 1. Welcome to my world!

Episode 1. Welcome to my world. On the forest trails at Sunbird Hill. The East Africa Travel Podcast by Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu
East Africa Travel Podcast
Episode 1. Welcome to my world!
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On the forest trails at Sunbird Hill, Kibale Forest, Uganda

In this first episode of the podcast, join me – Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of Diary of a Muzungu – on a short walk along the edge of the tropical Kibale Forest in western Uganda, where you can hear:

  • What is a muzungu?
  • What did volunteers tell me about Uganda?
  • What’s an elephant trench?
  • Why do I call my wooden house a “glorified bird hide”?
  • Where is Sunbird Hill?

Scroll down for a full transcript of this week’s episode.

Trailer

Trailer. The East Africa Travel Podcast, hosted by Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu
East Africa Travel Podcast
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Hello and – karibu – to the East Africa Travel Podcast hosted by me, Charlotte Beauvoisin, author of the popular travel blog, Diary of a Muzungu. 

Welcome to my world, a wooden house at Sunbird Hill, overlooking Kibale Forest, one of Uganda’s national parks. 

I’ve worked in conservation and tourism in East Africa for over a decade, and I’ve met some extraordinary people along the way. I want you to meet them!

Tune in every week to The East Africa Travel Podcast for the dawn chorus, travel advice, chats with award-winning conservationists, safari guides, birders, lodge owners, and wacky guidebook writers.

Transcripts of every episode will be on Diary of a Muzungu. You’ll find us in all the popular podcast directories too.

Sign up to my weekly newsletter.

Follow Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu on Instagram Facebook LinkedIn and Twitter.

Trunk call: Jim Nyamu walks across East Africa to protect elephants

Have you heard about Jim Justus Nyamu’s cross-continental walks? Read about Ivory Belongs to Elephants’ East-Central Africa campaign walk

An amazing feat! 🐘 (Or should I say feet?) 👣

Jim campaigns tirelessly to protect elephants. He’s walked 1000s of miles / km and this is his 16th Campaign Walk for Elephants. His aim: to encourage African nations to work closely to protect this species that knows no borders. 

Jim Justus Nyamu, *OGW, is the Founder and Executive Director of the Elephant Neighbors Center, a non-profit whose mission is “to protect the African Elephant and secure landscapes for elephants outside protected areas.” The brand Ivory Belongs to Elephants™ focuses on raising awareness locally, nationally, and internationally of the plight of African Elephants, primarily through their advocacy walks.

Giraffe Centre, Nairobi. Jim Nyamu pictured with Charlotte Diary of a Muzungu
Jim Nyamu is one of my conservation heroes! We last met at the Giraffe Center in Nairobi, where he’s one of the directors

The East-Central Africa walk started in Nairobi, Kenya, on July 29th and passed through Nakuru, Mau Forest, Tinderet, Kakamega and Malaba (Mount Elgon). In Uganda, Jim walked through Mabira Forest, Kampala, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mbarara, Lake Mburo and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; now in Rwanda, Jim will visit Kigali, and Akagera National Park; and onto Goma, Virunga National Park, Okapi Wildlife Reserve, and Garamba National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. This four-month walk will cover approximately 3,200 km. The walks offer solutions to mitigating human-wildlife conflict and highlight the direct importance of wildlife to affected communities.

Jim Nyamu Ivory belongs to elephants campaign
Jim Nyamu is joined by supporters from Kenya and the East African Community on one of his many Ivory belongs to elephants campaigns
Uganda – and Kenyans living in Uganda – were honoured to meet Jim Nyamu in Kampala and accompany him for a few km walk through the city

This most iconic of African species is being pushed towards extinction – slaughtered by poachers to supply a worldwide ivory trade worth up to US$20 billion a year. Despite a ban in many countries, the killing is only getting worse. There are now estimated to be only 350,000 elephants left in Africa, with approximately 20,000 being killed every year. African elephants will be extinct in our lifetime if this rate of loss continues.

Ivory belongs to elephants press release

Elephants are crucial in:

  • dispersing seeds +
  • keeping the habitat open for grazing animals +
  • fighting climate change by contributing to natural carbon capture +
  • attracting millions of tourists who make substantial contributions to sub-Saharan Africa’s economies +
  • so much more!
ivory belongs to elephants. Jim Nyamu Ugandan school tree planting 2023
Tree-planting at a school in Uganda, September 2023. Jim Nyamu and the ivory belongs to elephants campaign have engaged with 16,000 schools over the last decade

Jim and his team have been walking to raise awareness since 2013. By the end of the current campaign, they will have walked almost 20,000 km across Africa, the United States, and the UK, connecting with over 16,000 schools, and holding over 900 community meetings along the the campaign walks.

Jim also walks in the US and Europe to raise awareness in international communities that are still trading in ivory. For example, despite the 2018 announcement of the UK government’s plans to ban sale and export of most ivory items, the trade in ivory and live elephants is still legal in several countries.

Jim Nyamu with elephant
Jim Justus Nyamu

If you see Jim, why not join the walk for an hour or even a day? 👣

Better still, you can support the team on the ground by making a donation. (I know how grim it is to try and sleep in a soggy tent!)

You can send directly to Jim Justus Nyamu via Momo +256 784755115 or Mpesa +254 713353060 or donate on the Ivory belongs to elephants gofundme page. Find out more on the Ivory belongs to elephants on Facebook.

(*OGW is the Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya is an award presented to individuals in recognition of an outstanding service rendered to the country).

Do Rwanda’s baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?

“Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony?” has to be one of the funniest questions I’ve ever been asked!*

The #FOMO [Fear Of Missing Out] is real this week as Rwanda hosts a week-long celebration of conservation and tourism, most visible at the 19th edition of Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony on Friday 1st September. It’s a brilliantly organised event that attracts people from near and far: locals attend for the free performances by local artistes; international ambassadors jet in to name baby gorillas; the rest of us love networking with tourism and conservation colleagues from across Africa as we tour the country and experience The Land of a Thousand Hills‘ growing list of attractions.

What is Kwita Izina?

Kwita Izina is modelled on a tradition in which Rwandans come together as a community to name their children. Since 2005 this has become an official, public event and a global celebration of nature and Rwanda’s commitment to sustainable and responsible tourism. It’s no accident that the Chief Guest is President Kagame and many of his supporters; but you have to hand it to him, this is a really slick show.

374 mountain gorillas have been named over the last 18 years of Kwita Izina.

Rwanda works hard to thank the vets, conservationists, wildlife rangers, donors, tourism experts, international influencers and of course the local community. Media from all nations are in abundance at every event. But this is far more than a free day out for the local community; it’s a public celebration of Rwanda itself too.

What happens at the gorilla naming ceremony?

I’ve been hosted media at Kwita Izina on a number of occasions, courtesy of Rwanda Development Board and The Gorilla Organization. These were great opportunities to research my updates for Horizon Guides and for the Rwanda chapter of Fodor’s Travel’s “The Complete Guide to the African Safari” (and Diary of a Muzungu too of course!)

During Kwita Izina, VIP namers from all walks of life are invited on stage to name one of the year’s baby gorillas, first in Kinyarwanda and then in English

In 2013 I wrote BINGO! Rwanda’s Kwita Izina, gorilla naming ceremony. That year I was a guest of The Gorilla Organization NGO, thanks to Jillian Miller and TGO Chair Ian Redmond. It was an honour to interview Kwita Izina‘s creator Rosette Rugamba at Hotel Muhabura, made famous by Dian Fossey.

Who gets to name Rwanda’s gorilla babies? What do the given names mean? And what is the format of the Kwita Izina event?

You’ll be amazed at the diversity of the attendees! Read more in Celebrating gorillas at “the best Kwita Izina ever!” my account from 2018.

Who will name the gorillas at Kwita Izina in 2023?

  • Bukola Elemide, known as Asa, French singer, songwriter, and recording artist
  • Danai Gurira, Actress, activist and playwright
  • Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser Al-Missned, Co-Founder and Chairperson, Qatar Foundation
  • Bernard Lama, SG Legend
  • Sol Campbell, Arsenal Legend
  • Idrissa Akuna “Idris” Elba OBE and Sabrina Dhowre Elba
  • British actor, producer, and musician. Sabrina is a Canadian model and spouse to Idris Elba
  • Cyrille Bolloré, CEO, Bolloré
  • H.E. Hazza AlQahtani, Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates to the Republic of Rwanda
  • Rt. Hon. Andrew Mitchell MP, Member of Parliament of the United Kingdom
  • Joakim Noah, Former professional basketball player
  • Kevin Hart, Comedian and Actor
  • Winston Duke, Actor and Producer
  • Jonathan Ledgard, Novelist
  • Zurab Pololikashvili, Secretary General of the United Nations World Tourism Organizations
  • Audrey Azoulay, Director General of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation
  • Anders Holch Povlsen, CEO of Bestseller retail clothing chain
  • Larry Green, Trustee, African Wildlife Foundation Board
  • Joe Schoendorf, Silicon Valley Pioneer
  • Nick Stone, Lead director of Wilderness Safaris
  • Innocent Dusabeyezu
  • Ineza Umuhoza Grace, Founder and CEO of the Green Protector
  • Elvine Ineza, Primary Six Student at Regina Pacis School in Musanze District
  • Queen Kalimpinya, Rwandan Rally Car Driver and Gender Equality Advocate
Watch this video of the 2022 Kwita Izina event. Rwandans are rightly proud that the event commentary leads in Kinyarwanda, the country’s main language. (The English commentary starts at 1 minute 34 seconds). Interesting fact: Rwanda’s third official language is Swahili

Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?

*No, the mountain gorillas do not attend the naming ceremony “in person”. They are safe in the sanctuary of Volcanoes National Park blissfully unaware of the thousands of people gathered to celebrate and advocate for their continued survival.

Did you know that if you visit Rwanda during the first week of September, you can get a free invitation to attend Kwita Izina?

If you’re planning to track the gorillas in Rwanda, visit at the end of August or the beginning of September and you can get a free invitation to Kwita Izina. There is tight security (President Kagame attends every year) so invitations need to be planned well in advance through a tour operator or conservation organisation. Other related activities this week include the 2-day Business of Conservation Conference in Kigali, a conservation exhibition and a gala dinner.

Another uniquely Rwandan event that takes place during the same period is the Red Rocks Cultural Festival, in nearby Musanze.

Looking for a tour operator to help you plan a trip to Rwanda or Uganda? Check out my Travel Directory or contact the muzungu.

More acclaim for Uganda’s trailblazing gorilla vet, Dr Gladys!

Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka’s “Walking with Gorillas” book is on sale in all good bookshops.

We’re immensely proud that our very own Dr. Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka has published her memoir. I can’t wait to pick up my copy of her book next week in the UK.

“I recommend this book to everyone interested in conservation, alleviating poverty, and the role of women in society. But perhaps most importantly it is a truly inspiring story of how one determined and dedicated woman overcame many setbacks and faced many dangers to follow and realize her dream.”

Jane Goodall, PhD, DBE and UN Messenger of Peace, from the foreword to “Walking with Gorillas”

Dr Gladys is Uganda’s leading, award-winning wildlife vet and gorilla conservation expert. She is the country’s first ever wildlife vet. In 2017, we collaborated on an ecotourism guide to tracking gorillas for Horizon Guides. For many years, she has been calling on us to all wear masks when tracking the great apes (gorillas and chimpanzees). During the pandemic, I often recalled her words about the threat of disease spread between species:

Humans and gorillas share over 98% genetic material and can easily make each other sick. This means that we have to “tread lightly” when visiting gorillas and take precautionary measures such as not tracking when you are sick, maintaining a distance and in the future going an extra step further by wearing masks to further reduce human disease threats to the critically endangered mountain gorillas.

Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka
BBC Spy in the wild. Uganda. Filming Dr Gladys. John Downer Productions
On location in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest filming “Spy in the wild” for the BBC. Pictured with Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka are Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers and the crew from John Downer Productions

This uplifting debut by conservationist Kalema-Zikusoka reflects on her upbringing in Uganda and career as a wildlife veterinarian. Born in Kampala, Uganda, in 1970, the author was two years old when her father, a former cabinet minister, was abducted and murdered by the forces of then-president Idi Amin. She recounts devoting herself to her education and enrolling at the University of London Royal Veterinary College, becoming at age 26 Uganda’s first veterinarian specializing in wild animals. Vivid anecdotes detail the sometimes gritty nature of her work with endangered mountain gorillas, as when she describes using sugar to help reduce swelling around a gorilla’s prolapse. Through her work, she became “convinced that you couldn’t keep the gorillas healthy without improving the health and well-being of the people with whom they shared their fragile habitats” and began studying disease transmission between humans and primates. That research, she relates, enabled her to successfully advocate for Uganda’s adoption of the “One Health” approach to conservation, which recognizes that human hygiene and health lead to better welfare for plants and animals. The heartwarming narrative testifies to the good that one person can achieve and illuminates the complex interdependence between humans and their environments. Admirers of Jane Goodall will love this.

A summary of “Walking with gorillas” from the publisher
I’m honoured to get a mention in Dr Gladys’ book for our work developing the Gorilla Conservation Coffee website

Read more about Gorilla Conservation Coffee, a clever conservation initiative, a sustainably produced coffee and a great cafe too!

Gorilla Conservation Coffee CTPH Uganda
Uganda’s coffee is trending internationally and locally, coffee culture is booming too! Gorilla Conservation Coffee, a CTPH initiative from Uganda

Her zeal for animals and gorillas in particular, as witnessed in this book, have lead Gladys to ground breaking innovations in conservation winning her global awards. This is an awe-inspiring walk by a remarkable lady who stands to be counted among women of incredible determination and purpose.

HRH Nnabagereka, Sylvia Nagginda Luswata, Queen of Buganda Kingdom, Uganda
Dr Gladys Kalema and Diary of a Muzungu. Explorers Club Uganda
Dr Gladys rocking the coolest dress ever! At the launch of the first sub-Saharan Africa chapter of the Explorers Club, Uganda in 2014

Dr Gladys is an incredible lady. She’s an inspiring role model for Ugandan women – and women everywhere. I can’t wait to read her book!

Have you read Walking with gorillas yet? Write a comment here. I’d love to read your views.

The year of saying YES

Revenge travel: with the freedom to travel again, in 2022 I said yes to every travel opportunity that came my way!

Before 2023 swallows me in a frenzy of work, I’m taking a moment to reflect on the 365 days in which I continued to piece my life back together as the world reopened for tourism. Just as we were getting up to speed post-pandemic (with summer bookings almost as busy as 2019) Uganda tourism was dealt a blow by the recurrence of Ebola. Would you believe it, we groaned collectively. Tour operators had only just resumed “real work” after two years of farming goats and washing cars; but anyway THANKFULLY the Ebola outbreak has officially been declared over, so let me say no more.

If 2020 was a write-off, and we “woke up” mid-2021, I’ll sum up 2022 as the year I said a resounding yes to everything. (And if 2021 was the year of the big resignation, surely 2022 must have been the year of the big burnout!) In 2022, I was so busy looking for new opportunities and answering travel queries that there was little time for creative writing on my beloved blog. Don’t worry dear reader – or listener? – in 2023, I promise to inspire you once more! This year’s project is a podcast, launching soon… but first…

Fodor’s Travel’s Complete Guide to the African Safari

One of 2022’s highlights was updating the Uganda and Rwanda chapters of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Fodor’s have been writing guidebooks for over 80 years.

If you’re researching a destination listed in this blog post, know that I have visited them personally in 2022. This means that you can read about them in the Fodor’s Guide or send me an enquiry. This post is a compilation of 2022’s social media updates. Stand-out moments – which made the long drives, Bwindi’s terrible roads, and the endless proof-reading of the guidebook worth it! – include:

UGANDA travel highlights

  • Listening to hyenas howling as I stretched out in bed at the glorious Ishasha Wilderness Camp, southern Queen Elizabeth National Park.
  • Adding five ‘lifers’ to my bird list in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park during my stay at Mount Gahinga Lodge.
  • Celebrating the tenth anniversary of Rwakobo Rock Lodge in Lake Mburo.
  • Ferry rides and kayaking in search of otters on the very cool Banda Island, Kalangala (Ssese Islands).
  • Dinner at the Bungee Bar overlooking the River Nile at Jinja.
  • The Uganda Railway Museum at Jinja railway station.
  • Driving across the Nile’s ferocious white waters at Karuma Falls en route to Pakwach and West Nile.
  • Being one of the judges of the Miss Rwenzori Tourism Final in Kasese.
  • Flying over Lake Victoria and Lake Mutanda towards the Virunga volcanoes with Aerolink.
  • Driving every rocky road around Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, from Nkuringo to Rushaga, Ruhija and Buhoma.
  • Visiting every lodge in Lake Mburo National Park.
  • Buying straw hats in Mbarara!
  • Taking a tour of Emburura Farm Lodge.
Charlotte, Diary of a Muzungu visits Batwa Village, Mgahinga with Volcanoes Safaris Uganda
Charlotte, Diary of a Muzungu visits Batwa Village, Mgahinga with Volcanoes Safaris Uganda

What an amazing welcome we had from the Batwa community of Mgahinga. Interaction with this ancient forest tribe are always memorable. I asked to have my photo taken with Stephen, one of the elders. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village! What a giggle. I was in Mgahinga near Kisoro to write about Volcanoes Safaris’ Retreat “Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes conservation challenges 2022 to 2050.”

Prince David Wasajja Rwenzori Marathon 2021 Kasese Uganda. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin Diary of a Muzungu
Prince David Wasajja at the inaugural Rwenzori Marathon 2022 Kasese Uganda. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin Diary of a Muzungu

Prince Wasajja of Buganda Kingdom completed the 21km run at the Rwenzori Marathon in western Uganda. Kasese town was painted green and the streets were lined with curious bystanders who couldn’t believe their town had become the talk of the country for a weekend. For many Kampala friends, this was their first visit. That shows you the power of sporting events in putting a destination on the map. 2023 is set to be even bigger for Kasese!

Murchison Falls Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu blog
Did you know….? The area where the River Nile explodes through a narrow gap in the rocks is called THE DEVIL’S CAULDRON!
Murchison Falls Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog

I was curious to see the new tarmac road that bisects Murchison Falls National Park (still under construction in some areas). I hate that Uganda is drilling for oil in a Protected Area but the drive to the Top of the Falls is certainly easier than before. We all gasped when we were hit by spray from the river! (Thankfully the cameras and phones survived). We passed through Murchison on our way back from Arua in West Nile.

Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron is one of my favourite stories from Murchison.

There is so much to write about West Nile:

  • firstly the BIG smiles
  • diverse cultures of tribes that are local to the region
  • a list of invitations to numerous waterfalls
  • mountain hikes
  • hot springs
  • Emin Pasha’s Fort
  • Congolese music
  • smoked Angala fish
  • Amin’s Trail
  • Colourful kitenge material sold by South Sudanese ladies at the Friday market

The people of Arua loved my 10 little-known things to do in Arua written after an earlier visit.

What are we without culture?

Mungu and I spent an enthralling hour with Tutu, Director of the Madi Lugbara Community Museum in Arua, West Nile, northwestern Uganda. I loved the museum’s simplicity. Moreover, the items displayed aren’t dusty items that sit forgotten on a shelf. “Go to the villages in West Nile” says John “and you will see all these items in daily use.”

Madi Lugbara Museum, Arua, West Nile Uganda PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin
Uganda’s unique tribes hold so many stories. We must treasure them ♥️ Madi Lugbara Museum, Arua Uganda PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin

Protecting traditional culture starts by listening to our elders’ stories, learning the lessons captured by song, engaging with passionate people like Tutu. He brought everything in the museum to life with his insightful, frequently funny, stories. The Madi Lugbara Community Museum is in Arua town. It’s one of many community museums across Uganda. They are mostly run by volunteers and all need our support.

Kampala Serena Hotel Charlotte Beauvoisin and Joan Diary of a Muzungu readers
Kampala Serena Hotel. Charlotte Beauvoisin with Joan, a guide and Diary of a Muzungu reader

One of the great things about writing a blog is meeting all kinds of interesting people [do say hi!] While I was checking out hotels and restaurants in Kampala for Fodor’s Travel, tour guide Joan came to say hello. She’s a ‘Top Fan’ of my Facebook page so it was wonderful to meet in person. The staff at the 5- star Kampala Serena Hotel are always smart, courteous and friendly. It’s a real privilege to stay there.

Diary of a Muzungu picking tea in plantation near Kibale Forest
Diary of a Muzungu picking tea

On a half-day “boda boda tour” of 7 crater lakes, we stopped at a tea plantation on the edge of Kibale Forest. I was over the moon when one of the tea-pickers handed me the “jerrycan shears” and gave me a chance to pick my own tea! Tea + Ugandan jerrycan invention = pure joy for a Brit like me (a big tea drinker).

biking trips from Kampala. Red Dirt Uganda. Charlotte Diary of a Muzungu
Biking trips from Kampala. Charlotte Diary of a Muzungu

Cool way to spend the weekend alert! If you’re looking for a bit of an adventure without traveling far from Kampala, I recommend this half day tour: I jumped in a wooden boat at Ggaba for a 20km bike ride along the marram dirt roads of Mukono. I came back feeling super relaxed… (and dusty and sweaty!) If you have your own bike, you can join Sunday bike rides around Kampala at zero cost. Contact the Muzungu for more info.

RWANDA travel highlights

Stand-out moments included:

  • Being back in Rwanda after three long years!
  • Eating sambaza fish while listening to Congolese music in Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – a few snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
  • Chatting conservation with Rwanda Development Board at Gishwati Mukura National Park, Rwanda’s newest protected area.
  • Sipping tea and nibbling homemade biscuits on the terrace at Virunga Lodge, overlooking the twin lakes of Bulera and Ruhondo.
  • Gawping in awe at the world-class Ellen de Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Kinigi, close to the start of the gorilla tracking.
  • Having The Best Massage Of My Life at the five-star Maisha Spa at Kigali Serena Hotel.
  • Drinking tea on the balcony of Virunga Lodge overlooking Lake Burera.
  • Reconnecting with Greg Bakunzi of Red Rocks. Their cool campsite in Musanze is a centre for adventure, art and cultural learning. The community benefit directly from t heourists.
  • Hearing stories about Dian Fossey from Gaudence, the owner of the legendary Muhabura Hotel, where Fossey used to stay.

In May 2022, I saw for myself how easy it is to enter Rwanda at the snazzy new Gatuna “one stop shop” border post.

Rwanda border 2022 with Rashid and Diary of a Muzungu
Yes we’re in! Document checking at the Rwanda border with Rashid and Diary of a Muzungu

After years of cross-border bus trips, it was interesting to cross the border in a tourist vehicle. First my guide Rashid had to buy COMESA insurance; at the border he had to ‘clear’ the vehicle with the Uganda Revenue Authority and Immigration. Here we were both issued with an Interstate Pass (part of the East Africa Tourist Visa which all EAC citizens and residents are eligible for). Lastly, our bags were scanned and searched – don’t accidentally carry a cavera (plastic bag) into Rwanda!

Dr Seguya, Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration, Kigali, Rwanda with Charlotte Beauvoisin and Rashid Walulya Kigali 2022
Dr Seguya GVTC with Charlotte Beauvoisin, Rashid Walulya. Kigali Rwanda

In Kigali, Rwanda, we caught up with Dr Andrew G. Seguya who heads the Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration (and was the longest serving ED at Uganda Wildlife Authority). GVTC is best known for protecting the mountain gorillas that range between Rwanda, Uganda and the DR Congo. Have you heard of the pledge to protect gorillas? Gorilla tracking tourists are encouraged to commit to protecting the gorillas from human diseases by signing the www.gorillafriendly.org pledge.

Lake Kivu Serena Hotel Rwanda with Charlotte Beauvoisin
Lake Kivu Serena Hotel Rwanda with Charlotte Beauvoisin on behalf of Fodor’s Travel

Have you visited Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu?

This chilled-out small town borders the DRC town of Goma and is great for a long weekend. The buffet breakfast at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel is to die for! Their new gym opened in time for CHOGM in 2022 and the hotel has added mountain bike hire and birdwatching to their list of activities.

Have you heard of Gishwati-Mukura National Park?

Gishwati-Mukura National Park Rwanda. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin Diary of a Muzungu travel blog
Gishwati-Mukura National Park Rwanda

Rwanda’s conservation and tourism visions are bold and inspiring. The new national park, created in 2016, is in fact two (severely degraded) forest fragments. An ambitious plan is in place to develop tourism activities (hiking, birdwatching, chimpanzee tracking and cultural experiences). A tree planting programme is visibly helping prevent soil erosion, protect rivers, improve biodiversity and – crucially – provide firewood for local communities. I’ve been following Gishwati-Mukura’s evolution closely since writing a blog for Albertine Rift Conservation Society in 2019.

Fancy sleeping in Dian Fossey’s room?

Diary of a Muzungu with Gaudence, the owner of the legendary Muhabura Hotel in Musanze, the Rwandan town closest to the gorillas
Diary of a Muzungu with Gaudence, the delightful owner of Hotel Muhabura in Musanze, the Rwandan town closest to the gorillas

Gaudence’s family knew pioneer gorilla conservationist Dian Fossey well and shared some interesting stories about Fossey’s stays there. Did you know you can stay in the very room where Fossey slept? (For a premium price). You can guess where the muzungu wanted to sleep! (Unfortunately I arrived when the room was being renovated).

KENYA travel highlights

Nairobi’s matatus are legendary! Each one is a work of art.

Diary of a Muzungu travel blog with Kenyan travel writer Harriet Owalla in a matatu taxi, Nairobi Kenya
Listening to reggae beats in a matutu in Nairobi with the brilliant Kenyan jounalist and travel writer Harriet Owalla

Work it baby (More reasons to celebrate 2022)

Thank you to everyone who voted for me in the Top 100 Women in Travel and Tourism in Africa. I felt honoured to be nominated and bowled over to come at no. 2 in the online vote!

Charlotte Beauvoisin. Winner Africa Tourism Promoter of the Year 2022. Africa Travel Awards. Akwaaba African Travel Market Nigeria
Winner Africa Tourism Promoter of the Year 2022. Africa Travel Awards. Akwaaba: African Travel Market takes place every October in Lagos, Nigeria

Training assignments led me across East Africa: digital marketing training in Jinja, Kampala, Fort Portal and West Nile; a community-based tourism webinar from Sunbird Hill for the East Africa Tourism Platform. Other work highlights included being speaking live to readers of the U.K.’s Wanderlust Magazine; a digital marketing presentation at Uganda’s inaugural Adventure Tourism Expo; On Uganda podcast interview; judging Uganda’s annual Travel Writing Competition. The year ended on a high with an invitation to Nairobi to co-lead a day discussing responsible tourism (one of my favourite subjects) with Kenyan content creators, Ecotourism Kenya and Kenya Tourism Board. (Thank you Barbara!)

Did 2022’s travels make up for lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest?

That time was enchanting in many ways and I remain grateful every day (as my #LockdownDiaries attest) but I took the isolation hard. I confess: 2022’s carbon footprint was off the scale and this year I am committed to offsetting my travels. I’m also committed to launching a podcast, a project inspired by being locked down with nature. More on that very soon!

Lastly, you’re always welcome to contact me for travel recommendations or check out my Travel Directory.

The Challenge of Protecting the Great Apes and the Albertine Rift

Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050 – an overview of the retreat at Mount Gahinga Lodge

If you’ve been following Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know how passionate I am about conservation. I was therefore delighted to be invited to help document Volcanoes Safaris’ conservation retreat at their fabulous Mount Gahinga Lodge. This is the first in a series of posts and podcasts I’ll be publishing about the weekend’s fascinating conversations.

Volcanoes Safaris was honoured to host the “Retreat on The Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050” at Mount Gahinga Lodge in the Ugandan foothills of the Virunga volcanoes. The retreat was the culmination of a series of events in 2022 to celebrate Volcanoes Safaris’ 25th anniversary.

Glorious footage of Mt Gahinga Lodge and the Virunga volcanoes. Short intro by Praveen Moman and key speakers give a flavour of the Volcanoes Safaris’ retreat

Welcome to Mount Gahinga, Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge, by Praveen Moman

Praveen Moman, founder of Volcanoes Safaris welcomed everyone to Mgahinga “the playground of Volcanoes Safaris” an area that Praveen has been visiting with his family since the age of 12 and the location for Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge: Mount Gahinga. Praveen took the opportunity to thank the assembled gathering for the collaboration, partnership and perseverance and to make an impassioned plea to find solutions.

Praveen Moman, Volcanoes Safaris Retreat Mgahinga Uganda 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions
Praveen Moman, Volcanoes Safaris Retreat Mgahinga Uganda 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions

Participants acknowledged that big strides have been made in conservation. Johannes Refisch (UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi) pointed out that mountain gorillas are the only great ape species whose numbers have increased in the past decades. Dr Gladys Zikusoka-Kalema of Conservation Through Public Health noted that mountain gorillas are important to government revenue, commenting “We have a gorilla on a Ugandan banknote.” However, the growing human population, climate change, risk of disease, regional insecurity and other factors will continue to exacerbate environmental challenges.

Welcome to Uganda’s smallest National Park” by Uganda Wildlife Authority

The weekend’s events started with a short walk in the National Park led by Praveen Moman and Richard Muhabwe, Senior Warden, Uganda Wildlife Authority. Muhabwe welcomed everyone to the 33.7 km square Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (MGNP), part of the greater Bwindi Mgahinga Conservation Area. This transboundary Park, contiguous with Volcanoes National Park in DRC and Rwanda, is popular for tracking the Nyakagezi family of nine mountain gorillas, golden monkeys, nature walks and volcano hiking of Mount Muhabura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabyinyo, borders the three countries.

Muhabwe’s welcome speech highlighted many of the environmental challenges that were to be discussed over the coming days. Climate change has led to flooding: mudslides on Mount Muhabura killed ten people and damaged property earlier in 2022. Climate change exacerbates the presence of invasive (plant) species that replace foliage that should feed wildlife. Human wildlife conflict is another local challenge: a 16 km long stone wall along MGNP’s boundary stretches from the border of the DRC to the border of Rwanda and prevents buffaloes straying from the National Park to destroy crops.

The singing from the Batwa village was simply FABULOUS. What an amazing welcome! I was delighted to see Stephen, one of the elders, again. I will never forget my first interaction with this ancient forest tribe and had to have my photo taken with him. 
Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village!
What an amazing welcome! I was delighted to see Stephen, one of the elders, again. I will never forget my first interaction with this ancient forest tribe and had to have my photo taken with him. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village!

One of the highlights of the retreat was an exuberant song and dance display by the villagers who reside in the Batwa Village built on land purchased by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust and other well-wishers. Jane Nyirangano, chairperson of the Gahinga Batwa Village, thanked VSPT for their interventions.

Mount Gahinga Lodge’s eight traditional hand-built guest bandas (two deluxe and six standard rooms) face the magical Virunga Volcanoes  

The purpose of the retreat

Participants at the informal conservation retreat discussed the successes and challenges of the past 25 years of conservation in the Albertine Rift and brainstormed ideas and solutions for ensuring the habitats, parks and wildlife, including the endangered great apes, survive for the next 25 years.

The aim of the retreat was to stimulate new ways of collaboration. It was an opportunity to speak openly about participants’ perspectives, fears and ambitions for this fragile region. By having a longer-term goal, participants were free to imagine a range of scenarios (in contrast to most meetings which tend to focus on the more immediate future). The fundamental questions revolved around: what are we doing right? What else are need to do? Is it a question of scaling up current interventions? Or do we need to adopt new approaches?

We cannot just put wilderness on a pedestal; we need to put bread on the table of local people. We need to use the private sector to be the engine of growth, to deliver business plans, to organise service delivery. We need Protected Area managers and conservationists to look after our species, and veterinarian and disease specialists to safeguard species’ health and protect them for the future. We need to join what’s happening outside a park with what’s happening inside a park. We need to make people part of the conservation chain. We need to make this the beginning of the campaign to save the Albertine Rift.

Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris

Who attended the retreat

Participants came from across the region: wildlife vets, primatologists, researchers, safari guides, wildlife rangers, National Park law enforcement and tourism wardens, foresters, and other conservationists; hospitality consultants, tour operators, development experts, private financiers, community outreach (Herbert) and media.

The retreat was co-moderated by Conservation Consultant Alastair McNeilage and Johannes Refisch of UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi.

Participants were invited to make short, simple presentations on topics of relevance to conservation in the Albertine Rift.

Key conclusions of the retreat

  1. It’s important for stakeholders to consider the Albertine Rift – Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC – as one region and to have a long-term vision for addressing the area’s various challenges.
  2. Concrete steps must be taken to maintain connectivity between small, isolated islands of habitat. This will help make ecosystems more resilient to the impacts of climate change.
  3. The threat of more human diseases affecting great apes is significant so veterinary care and technology will remain critical.
  4. Conservation needs to be part of the economic mainstream for governments and communities to support the continued presence of protected areas in regions where human populations continue to rise.
  5. Local communities must benefit from conservation and tourism. They have a stake in the future of great apes and protected areas and must be involved in development plans.
  6. Tourism can bring significant revenue, but the pandemic has taught us that conservation and communities cannot rely on one sole source of funding. New business models for protected area management must be actively considered. Innovative models have been successfully implemented across Africa. Public-private partnerships, for example, approach conservation management as a business that can cover the protected area’s operational costs and directly benefit communities involved.
  7. Collaboration between conservation organisations and the private sector needs to be developed further. Long-term involvement of researchers, new investment in parks, and application of private sector skills such as ‘business thinking’ and service delivery are important in sensitively developing natural resources and creating ‘professional tourism products’ for sale to visitors.
  8. Gorilla and chimpanzee tourism must be sensitive and controlled in line with the established protocols so that it does not negatively impact the species or habitat. Tourism protocols need to be strictly followed by park authorities, tourism intermediaries and visitors.
  9. Investment in conservation education for the next generation of young Africans is critical, to ensure that young people are educated and inspired to support conservation and tourism. The need for quality education is particularly important for the indigenous Batwa population. Forcibly removed from their forest home, these conservation refugees need a direct benefit from tourism in order to lift their communities out of poverty and help find peaceful human / wildlife co-existence. Conservation education should be an integral part of all stakeholders’ activities.
  10. The retreat agreed to create an informal group: The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group whose aim is to become a long-term advocacy and information network for those involved in this subject area. The focus of the group is to take collaborative action to deal with specific policy issues, threat to a particular species or a habitat or community issue. The group should maintain regular contact, either as a whole or in sub-groups, possibly every quarter through written exchanges, Zoom calls or physical meetings.

Outputs of the retreat

  • The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group is led by Conservation through Public Health and Volcanoes Safaris. The inaugural meeting was held 22nd November 2022 in Kampala.
  • The stakeholders agreed to meet every year, bringing in other partners as appropriate, to review progress. The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund offered to host the next meeting at their Ellen DeGeneres Campus, at Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.
  • The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group has proposed some informal groupings to support action in specific areas; each participant should decide whether they wish to participate in a sub-group.
  • Responsible gorilla tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; the gorilla-friendly pledge; adherence to IUCN and GRASP best practice guidelines; enhancing habitat connectivity.

Lead organisations: Conservation Through Public Health and Gorilla Doctors.

  • Responsible chimpanzee tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; enhancing habitat connectivity.

Lead organisation: Jane Goodall Institute.

About the Albertine Rift

The Albertine Rift stretches from Murchison Falls in northern Uganda to Kahuzi-Biega in the DRC. It is one of the richest areas of biodiversity in the world and one of the most densely populated areas of Africa.

About Volcanoes Safaris and the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust

For 25 years, Volcanoes Safaris has been at the forefront of reviving tourism in Uganda and Rwanda and is recognized as the region’s leader in gorilla and chimpanzee ecotourism. Volcanoes Safaris was the first company to set up simple camps in the areas around Uganda’s gorilla parks. Today Volcanoes Safaris has three lodges in Uganda: Mount Gahinga Lodge at Mgahinga National Park; Bwindi Lodge, bordering Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; and Kyambura Gorge Lodge, overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park, neighbouring a gorge with a community of threatened chimpanzees.

Praveen, Giulia and Partha Moman. Volcanoes Safaris. Mgahinga Uganda 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions

In 2000, Volcanoes Safaris became the first international safari company to take clients to Rwanda and in 2004 opened Virunga Lodge, the first international company to build a lodge near the gorilla park after the war. Virunga Lodge is winner of Condé Nast Traveler readers’ choice awards 2017, 2021 and 2022.

Volcanoes Safaris: recognised leaders in great ape tourism

Volcanoes Safaris helped kick-start gorilla tourism in Rwanda after the genocide through the Volcanoes BLCF Partnership Project. In 2005 the company become a charter signatory to the UN Kinshasa Declaration on Saving the Great Apes, the only private sector company to do so. In 2009, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust (VSPT), a non-profit organisation that aims to create long-term, self-sustaining projects that enrich the livelihoods of local communities and promote the conservation of the great apes, was established.

In 2013, Praveen Moman, the founder was asked to join the Congo Basin Forest Partnership, which promotes sensitive economic development of the forests of Central Africa. Praveen has been described as a ‘visionary conservationist’ by the Financial Times and as ‘one of top twenty-five conservation-philanthropists’ in Africa by Departures Magazine. In 2021 Praveen was named winner of the Newsweek Future of Travel Awards.

About the retreat

The retreat took place at Mount Gahinga Lodge between November 12-14 2022. The next retreat will take place in one to two years’ time.

“We need the wisdom of all you, of your elders, of those who have gone before, of your institutions, to work together.”

Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris
Praveen Moman Volcanoes Safaris with Dr Gladys Kalema Zikusoka. Mgahinga Uganda November 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions

For further information

If you’re are interested in future meetings, you’re welcome to contact the Great Apes in the Albertine Rift steering committee via email albertineapes@gmail.com.

  • Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, Founder, Conservation Through Public Health.
  • Jean Paul Hirwa, Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund
  • James Byamukama, Jane Goodall Institute
  • Alastair McNeilage, Conservation consultant
  • Johannes Refisch, UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi
  • Nick Radford, Wildlife Conservation Society
  • Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris

Are mountain gorillas endangered?

What is the conservation status of Mountain Gorillas?

Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are classified as ‘endangered’ on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species. It was only in 2018 that they were recategorised from the ‘critically endangered’ listing.

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
Have you read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking?

“Today, mountain gorillas are threatened, not due to a demand for their meat, or their infants, but due to a demand for the lush forest in which they live. For the poverty-stricken communities living around the gorilla habitat it is the forest that provides them with many of their basic human needs, and in the war torn areas of Democratic Republic of the Congo these needs are exaggerated.”

Gorilla conservation is the number one conservation priority in Uganda and Rwanda. Gorilla tourism has helped bring the mountain gorilla population back from the brink of extinction but threats to their survival are still very real. The biggest threats to the gorillas come from humans: illegal logging of the rainforest, poaching, encroachment of land for farming and the risk of disease transmission by humans. Additionally, political instability is still a major factor affecting the Congolese population of mountain gorillas in the DRC region of the Virunga Volcanoes.

“Active conservation [of gorillas] involves simply going out into the forest, on foot, day after day after day, attempting to capture poachers, killing—regretfully—poacher dogs, which spread rabies within the park, and cutting down traps.”

The gorilla population numbers in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from a shockingly low census record of just 254 gorillas in 1981 to an estimated 880 individuals in 2013. In 2018, we were delighted to learn the combined population has just passed the 1,000 mark.

Rangers continue to put their lives on the line every day to protect these gentle giants. Poaching of gorillas is thankfully very rare these days, however they can unwittingly become caught in snares set for other animals.

Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony every September is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face.

If you trek to see the mountain gorillas, you may be interested to know that a percentage of every gorilla permit fee goes to the communities living around the National Parks. The benefits of this are many: local communities receive a tangible benefit from tourism in remote parts of the country where there are few employment opportunities. This direct financial incentive encourages local people to support tourism. Entry into the national parks is strictly controlled. Before the national parks were gazetted, people entered the forest to collect firewood, burn charcoal, set snares and hunt. The promotion of farming outside the protected areas (vegetable gardens and goat rearing) and the development of alternatives to charcoal (fuel-efficient stoves and solar panels) are just some of the projects that conservation organisations promote in local opportunities.

The removal of the Batwa ‘Pygmies,’ the traditional forest dwellers, from the gorillas’ habitat was another step that the authorities took in the 1990s, when the gorilla population seemed to face certain extinction. The Batwa culture and way of life are unique. By visiting and supporting the Batwa projects (developed as alternative ways of living outside the forest that once supported them) you are directly supporting gorilla conservation.

In recent decades, many people from all over the world have dedicated their lives to the conservation of the mountain gorilla. In 1985, pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, was found dead in her home in Volcanoes National Park, believed to have been murdered by one of the poachers she fought in her protection of the gorillas. The mountain gorillas are better protected than ever, and their numbers rising slowly, but each year, rangers from Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo put their own lives in danger to protect these marvellous creatures. The ‘Galiwango, Life of a Gorilla’ animated film project pays tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of these rangers.

Which conservation organisations are working to protect the mountain gorillas?

For information on some of the conservation issues and initiatives in and around the national parks of Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo, visit:

Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH)

The Gorilla Organization (TGO) works with communities to protect the habitats of the Mountain Gorillas of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) manages the country’s National Parks. UWA rangers are constantly monitoring the whereabouts of Uganda’s gorillas.

Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGF)

Blog of the Gorilla Doctors Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project

International Gorilla Conservation Programme IGCP

Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund MGCF

Berggorilla & Regenwald Direckthilfe

Gorilla tracking tourism and numerous community tourism initiatives all help raise funds and awareness the plight of the endangered mountain gorillas.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.