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Swim, cycle or run? (Win fab prizes!) Kyaninga Triathlon May 2024

Are you a runner? Do you ride a bike? Do you swim?

Kyaninga Lodge KCDC triathlon, duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024
Kyaninga Lodge triathlon / duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024

If you can do all – or even one – of these sports, then why not get a team together for the superb Kyaninga Triathlon on May 18th 2024? (We still have time to get in shape!) You can also sign up for a fun run, duathlon or bike ride. The annual triathlon takes place in the glorious countryside around Kyaninga Lodge outside Fort Portal, western Uganda. Full details – prices + how to enter + race descriptions + contact details – are on the Kyaninga Events website.

NOTE: info on this page is updated every year.

Do you fancy winning a night at one of Uganda’s top lodges?

Scroll down to read how to buy raffle tickets to night stays at Kyaninga Lodge, Ndali Lodge, Buhoma Lodge, Mihingo Lodge, Red Chilli Hideaway, Aramaga Rift Valley Lodge, Seasons Lodge Zanzibar, Little Elephant Camp, Kikorongo Safari Lodge, Rwakobo Rock, Turaco Treetops and Trekkers Safari Lodge.

Help change the futures of children with disabilities in Uganda

All proceeds of these fundraiser events go to the amazing Kyaninga Child Development Centre who work with disabled children and their families. I have seen the positive impact of their work – it’s life-changing! 13% of children in Uganda – that’s more than 2.5 million children – are living with a disability

How to register for the Kyaninga Triathlon + how to buy raffle tickets to win awesome prizes at lodges, cafes and restaurants across Uganda

1. Visit the Kyaninga Triathlon website for more info.

2. If you’re in Uganda, register for all these events OR pay for raffle tickets by using MTN MoMo Pay 613517.

3. Got a question? WhatsApp Fiona at KCDC on +256 778277248 or events@kyaningacdc.org

4. Buy a ton of raffle tickets! You can even buy them remotely and your numbers will be sent via WhatsApp.

5. Looking for ideas on accommodation around Fort Portal? Send me a message.

Things to do after tracking gorillas in Rwanda [UPDATED]

Top places to visit and tourism activities to experience after tracking the gorillas in Rwanda

You may visit Rwanda to track the mountain gorillas, but may stay for many other reasons.

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
I hope you enjoy my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking – feel free to share it!

The Volcanoes National Park entrance at Kinigi is the starting point for other activities including:

  • Hiking Mount Sabyinyo’s imposing volcanic peak.
  • Accompanied by an official ranger guide, you can visit Karisimbi and the grave of world-famous primatologist Dian Fossey and the graves of some of the gorillas she studied. If you have watched “Gorillas in the Mist” you may recall Digit the gorilla (one of the gorillas studied by Fossey).
  • Trekking to see the endangered Golden Monkeys.
  • The birdwatching in Virunga is sensational!

Community activities include colourful, traditional Intore dance performances and village walks to see the traditional way of life.

If you love primates, why not track chimpanzees or visit the habituated black and white Colobus monkeys in Nyungwe Forest National Park?

The laidback resort of Gisenyi, on the shore of Lake Kivu, borders Goma and the Democratic Republic of Congo. Lake Kivu is the largest of Rwanda’s lakes and is two hours drive from Rwanda’s gorilla tracking park headquarters. Visit Gisenyi for kayaking, to hike or cycle the multi-day Congo Nile Trail or to simply chill. Want to just watch the world go by for a few hours? Gisenyi is a popular day out for Kigali residents.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. 
Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

The euphoric Rwenzoris!

What heights will you reach in 2021? Last year Lilly Ajarova pushed herself to summit Margherita, the Rwenzoris’ highest peak. She shares her inspiring story here.

Reaching the peak Margherita gives you a feel of being on top of the world, everything feels below you, it’s euphoric.

Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board
Margherita Peak, Rwenzoris Uganda. Lilly Ajarova UTB, Golola Moses PHOTO UNDP, UTB
Margherita Peak, Rwenzori Mountains. Uganda. Lilly Ajarova, Moses Golola. PHOTO Derrick Ssenyonyi

In December 2020, a team of climbers embarked on an ascent of Margherita Peak, the highest point in the Rwenzori Mountains at 5,109 metres (16,762 ft). The group took a nine-day fact-finding hike to Margherita Peak with Rwenzori Trekking Services in partnership with the United Nations Development Programme (UNDP) Uganda. You can read more about the Take on the Pearl domestic tourism campaign in Uganda in new drive to market Mt Rwenzori by Titus Kakembo. Oh how I wish I had been with them!

Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.

Lilly Ajarova

Below, Lilly shares her personal account of climbing the Rwenzoris.

Lilly Ajarova. CEO. Uganda Tourism Board. Rwenzori Mountains. Uganda #VisitUganda
Boss lady Lilly Ajarova. CEO of Uganda Tourism Board showing us how it’s done! Rwenzori Mountains. Uganda. PHOTO Derrick Ssenyonyi

When 2020 started, we all had plans, but then the unexpected happened and for most, those plans were no more.

But in all this I had one plan that I didn’t give up on: I hoped and believed I would achieve it.

My plan was to hike Mount Rwenzori in 2020. It’s not easy to explain why this was important for me but most importantly it was about pushing myself to the limits, challenging myself to do something that I would look back and say “this was worth it.”

We kept planning for the hike and postponing it until we finally settled on a date. In December, I and a group of passionate hikers started the journey.

It wasn’t easy but there was a determination by everyone that kept us going. Each time I looked at the faces of other hikers, beyond the sweat I could see a story, a story so personal that I believe each will tell theirs. We were all out there – each with a story on why they were doing this, but we all had one goal: to reach the highest peak of the Rwenzoris – Margherita!

I have challenged myself to many things over the years but this one meant a lot more. We were in the Rwenzori mountains at a time when the tourism industry has been hit hard by the COVID-19 pandemic. In a way we were doing this hike to bring back hope to the tourism sector, to inspire others to also take upon such challenges.

There is this unexplainable feeling you get when you reach the highest peak: it’s a moment of triumph, just that this is a different kind of triumph.

You look back at the number of days it has taken you to get here, you remember the emotional and physical strain. You’re tired but not tired. For a moment you stay silent and let it all sink in because you still can’t believe that you managed to do this. Even with all the fatigue you still gather the strength to smile for a photo moment because some memories can’t just be described by words. And then silently you just say “I did it, we did it.”

I say “We did it” because no-one can claim this achievement alone; it’s a team effort. A lot of people sacrificed and put their time in to make sure this was a success, and I am so grateful to all that made this possible.

As we come close to what has been a year full of challenges and uncertainties, my hope is that as long as we wake up each day – alive – let’s challenge ourselves to do something great. It doesn’t have to be hiking Rwenzori but let it be something that puts your spirit and determination to the test.

Let it be something that when you look back, the feeling is satisfying for you.

That’s the experience hiking Rwenzori has given me. I now – more than ever – understand what one can achieve with courage and determination.

I wish that as we start 2021, we all have something we shall challenge ourselves to. I hope that we don’t stop dreaming and having big goals. Let’s not cage our wandering spirits but instead let’s go out there and do things we thought we would never do.

The day I came back from the hike, one of my sons asked me “So, what next now that you have reached the highest peak of Rwenzori?”

I really didn’t have an answer, but I believe that as long as we are still alive there are other highest peaks in life that we should always challenge ourselves to reach.

Wishing you all a Happy New Year and may 2021 be the year which you climb to as many highest peaks in life as possible.


Lilly Ajarova, Uganda Tourism Board #VisitUganda #TakeOnThePearl #TulambuleUganda
Hiking Mount Rwenzori Uganda #VisitUganda PHOTO UNDP, UTB
Hiking Mount Rwenzori Uganda. December 2020. PHOTO Derrick Ssenyonyi
A few highlights of Lilly Ajarova’s team climb to Margherita Peak in Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains, courtesy of Uganda Tourism Board, UNDP and Rwenzori Trekking Services

About the Rwenzori Mountains

The 996 km2 Rwenzori Mountains National Park is recognised as a UNESCO World Heritage site, a Ramsar site (for its “wetlands of international importance”) and an Important Bird Area. And you haven’t visited yet?

Uganda’s RMNP is located in the 120km-long and 65km-wide Rwenzori mountain range that forms the border boundary of western Uganda and the Democratic Republic of Congo. It is the highest mountain range in Africa. Margherita on Mount Stanley in the Rwenzoris is Africa’s third highest peak, after the volcanic peaks of Mount Kilimanjaro (5,895 m) and Mount Kenya (5,199 m).

More than 70 mammal and 217 bird species have been recorded in the Rwenzoris. The best place to see these is in the montane forests at lower altitudes. Famous stand-out species you might see are the vibrant Rwenzori Turaco and an assortment of colourful chameleons.

Three-horned Chameleon Ruboni Camp Rwenzoris
Three-horned Chameleon, Ruboni Camp in the foothills of the Rwenzoris
Rwenzori Turaco Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography
Rwenzori (or Ruwenzori) Turaco, as pictured in the Rwenzori Mountains of Uganda. PHOTO Mark Dudley Photography. Click on the image to visit Mark’s Facebook page

Rwenzori mammals include the eastern chimpanzee, l’Hoest’s monkey, blue monkey, golden cat, African forest elephant, (the disturbingly loud nocturnal) southern tree hyrax, yellow-backed duiker and the endangered black-fronted duiker. Did you know that 19 of the Rwenzori’s bird species are Albertine Rift endemics (meaning they are only found in this corner the world)?

Have you seen Africa’s botanical big game?

Beyond the boggy moorlands, hikers cross valleys and waterfalls, rivers and lakes as they pass through evergreen forest, bamboo forest, colourful heather, and Afro-alpine zones. It is this unusual diversity of vegetation – much of it unique to the Rwenzoris – that makes the environment so memorable. The giant lobelia and groundsels at higher elevations have earned it the name “Africa’s botanical big game.” For most hikers, the fabulous scenery of the foothills is more than enough to stretch the limbs and inspire the soul. Hiking to one of the peaks is only for the fit and the well-prepared but determination is rewarded with spectacular views from seasonally snow-capped peaks and glaciers.

Rwenzori Mountains 'Ruwenzori' Uganda
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Lilly adds “Mt. Rwenzori is the third highest mountain in Africa, it is a mountain like no other. It presents a combination of a stimulating terrain, the rarest of vegetations, sights and sounds of magnificent waterfalls and the bluest of lakes, all climaxing in breath-taking glaciers and snow-capped peaks. Rwenzori Mountains National Park presents tourists with a more fulfilling and yet, crowd-free hiking experience that you will not find on many mountains across the world.” 

Have you visited the Rwenzoris? Or do you plan to hike Margherita or Weissmann’s Peak?

10 fascinating facts about flamingos, Lake Elmenteita, Kenya

10 fascinating facts (I bet you didn’t know) about flamingos!

Flamingo-watching, horse riding among zebras, a game drive in search of elands, giraffes and Secretary Birds – what more can a girl ask for? Sigh… read about my three action-packed days at the luxurious Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp, Soysambu Conservancy in Kenya’s Rift Valley.

For many years I’ve had a postcard decorated with bright pink birds next to my desk. Seeing flamingos in their natural environment has been high on my African travel bucket list for longer than I remember. Although flamingos are occasional visitors to Uganda, their numbers are low and their arrival unpredictable. I was therefore thrilled to have the opportunity to visit Kenya’s Lake Elmenteita, a UNESCO World Heritage Site and Important Bird Area, famous for its flamingo and pelican populations.

Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp has a superb range of activities for the active (and the not so active!) Horse riding, game drives, archery, a lakeshore breakfast, birdwatching and the Serena’s wonderful Maisha Spa are just a few highlights. Would the muzungu be able to fit them all in my three-day stay? (If you know me, you know I want to try everything!)

Scroll down for 10 Fascinating Facts about Flamingos.

Diary of a Muzungu horseback safari at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp (Photos Charlotte Beauvoisin)
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As soon as I stepped out of the vehicle, my eyes were drawn to Lake Elementeita and the hill known as the Sleeping Warrior (AKA Lord Delamere’s Nose). Between us lay a chink of shining water. Were the flamingos there?

Checking into my luxury tent cum cottage would have to wait while I peered at the lake – and there it was! – a fine line of pink and the most extraordinary noise. (I was to become familiar with the funny noises that feeding flamingos make!)

Flamingos are so unusual that my mind raced with questions about their pink appearance, their unusual beak and their quirky dance! If you’re curious like I am, you might enjoy the tips I collected about these fabulous and unique birds.

10 Fascinating Flamingo Facts

Who can fail to identify a flamingo? These leggy tropical wading birds have long curvy necks. Most noticeably of all, they are pink!

Flamingos are water birds that live in and around lakes and lagoons. In East Africa, these waters are usually saline or alkaline.

Did you know… ? The pinkest flamingos have the highest status as their bright colour shows that the bird is good at finding food and thus strong.

Fun Flamingo Fact #1

Why are flamingos pink?

Flamingos embody the phrase “you are what you eat” and consume a diet of small fish, shrimps and crustaceans that live on lake algae. The pink comes from beta-carotene in the crustaceans.

Did you know… ? Flamingos that live in zoos will turn white if their diet is not supplemented with live shrimp or food containing carotenoid pigments.

The number of pink birds is increasing – this is a new thing according to my guide at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp. Other birds such as Yellow-billed Stork can be affected and you may see a pink tinge to their wings.

Flamingos are pink on the inside, too. Flamingo skin is pink; so is flamingo blood!

Fun Flamingo Fact #2

There are six species of flamingo. Two are native to East Africa.

The Greater Flamingo (Phoenicopterus roseus) is the most widespread flamingo species. Greater Flamingos are bigger and have a defined S body shape.

The Lesser Flamingo (Phoenicopterus minor) is the most numerous species of flamingo. Lesser Flamingos are smaller but pinker!

Did you know… ? Both flamingo species can be seen at Lake Elmenteita.

Fun Flamingo Fact #3

Did you know… ? Flamingos feed upside down while dancing? They hold their breath while feeding too!

Their feet disturb the lakebed and release algae. With their head upside-down, they suck the muddy water and filter the lake’s nutrient through their specially designed beak.

Fun Flamingo Fact #4

Groups of flamingos are known as colonies and may number several hundred birds. In East Africa, more than one million flamingos have been known to flock together.

Did you know… ? As breeding time approaches, a high-status flamingo will influence the rest of the flock to breed by changing its feathers to a deeper shade of pink, kick-starting the breeding rituals. Isn’t that amazing?

Fun Flamingo Fact #5

Did you know… ? A colony of flamingos all mate at the same time so chicks all hatch at the same time.

Flamingos are monogamous and produce one egg each year. The pair build a nest of mud and sticks and take turns to sit on the egg while it incubates. When a flamingo chick hatches, after a month, both parents take turns to feed it. Their straight beaks start to curve as they grow. Flamingo chicks are born white or grey and take up to 3 years to reach their mature pink colour

Flamingos breed on Lake Natron in Tanzania but spend most of their year on lakes in Kenya.

Fun Flamingo Fact #6

Did you know… ? You can see flamingos (those that are not breeding) throughout the year at Lake Elmentaita.

The breeding flamingos – and young – return to Lake Elmenteita from May onwards. During June 2018, there were more flamingos here than ever: almost the whole lake was covered, according to my guide at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp.

From late December to January flamingos fly to their breeding ground on Lake Natron in Tanzania. A number always remain at lake Elmentaita – with the large pelican population – throughout the year.

Fun Flamingo Fact #7

Did you know… ? Although flamingo numbers are fairly stable, Lesser Flamingos are considered near threatened because their numbers are small or decreasing, according to the IUCN (International Union for the Conservation of Nature).

Fun Flamingo Fact #8

Flamingos live between 20 and 30 years, some longer. They have one of the longest lifespans in the bird world.

Did you know… ? Fossil remains show close relatives of the flamingo existed around 30 million years ago. This makes them one of the older bird species

Fun Flamingo Fact #9

Do you know why flamingos stand on one leg when they want to rest? It’s been suggested that having one leg out of the water preserves body heat.

A flamingo knee bends backwards (and is covered in feathers). The “knee” that we see is actually an ankle joint. 

Fun Flamingo Fact #10

The word ‘flamingo’ comes from the Spanish word ‘flamenco’ meaning fire, which refers to the bright colour of their feathers (naturally!)

Flamingos and birdlife, Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp. (Photos Henry Sanoe and Serena Hotels)
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The spacious tented accommodation at the 4-star Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp is a clever combination of fixed walls and canvas that rolls up to reveal mosquito-netted windows. Each cottage has a private view of the lake.

Rooms are furnished with colonial-style furniture: a wooden floor, a large desk complete with cubbyholes for letters, a desk lamp, a hefty wooden chest with brass fittings, a day bed, a dressing table, and overhead a chandelier (of course) and framed prints of some of East Africa’s most exotic birds such as the flamboyant Northern Carmine Bee eater, and Lilac-breasted Roller.

I had two delicious nights sleep on a ridiculously comfortable mattress. I was in seventh heaven when I found hot water bottles warming my bed! Mosquito nets drape around the four-poster bed and fall to the floor. My bathroom had ‘double vanities’ (twin basins); it had two of everything in fact – even a double ‘his and her’ shower! Toiletries are provided in large wall dispensers. (Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp is Gold Eco-rated after all!) Each cottage is well connected with power sockets, a phone and plenty of hot water.

About Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp

  • The 25 luxury tented accommodation can sleep up to 50 people.
  • The Flamingo Suite is the closest accommodation to the lake and perfect for honeymooning couples.
  • Complimentary activities include cooking with the chef, watercolour painting, a botanical tour, archery, Swahili lessons and yoga
  • Other (charged) activities include night game drives, massages and bush dinner.
  • The swimming pool is gorgeous!
  • There is a small ‘conference tent’ that can be set up for up to 35 people

For more information…

  • Why not combine a stay at Lake Elmentaita with a few days at the Nairobi Serena Hotel? Read my blog ‘How to tour Africa from the comfort of your Nairobi hotel.’
  • Rates are usually based on full board and include Soysambu Conservancy fee and numerous (but not all) activities; mineral water or soft drinks with meals. Family offer: children under five years sharing rooms with parents stay free.

Travel tips and Directions to Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp

  • The journey by road from Nairobi takes 2 1/2 hours. Distance from Nairobi 135 km; Nakuru 30 km; Nakuru National Park (Nderit gate) 27 km.
  • Fly by private plane or charter to nearby airstrip.
  • Land a helicopter at the camp’s helipad.
  • The final approach to the Conservancy is on a good new road. Within five minutes we were in dusty bush and almost immediately saw bushbuck, warthog and impala.
  • The Soysambu Conservancy was created in 2007 and is known as a ‘dual land use’ conservancy of wildlife with livestock. The Conservancy’s 48,000 acres (190 square km) protects 12,000 wild animals (including Rothschild’s giraffe, zebra, eland, buffalo, leopard and lion), 7,000 cattle and 4,000 goats and sheep. The conservancy is clean, quiet and isolated from modern life. (I found comfort in not seeing any human activity on the lake).
  • Visitors to the Conservancy can only gain entry by booking in advance. This policy is because the Conservancy’s infrastructure can only support a limited number of vehicles. This limited access gives pre-booked visitors an exclusive experience. Book through the Conservancy’s tourism partners (such as Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp) or camp.
  • Soysambu is very accessible and you don’t need a four-wheel-drive. If you buy a map of the conservancy then you don’t need to hire a guide.
  • For additional wildlife excitement, Nakuru National Park is a stone’s throw away and home to a few species you can’t see at the Conservancy, including white rhino, black rhino, striped hyena and elephant.
  • By comparison, conservancy fees are very affordable (and included in the rates for staying at Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp).

Read full details about Lake Elmenteita Serena Camp’s facilities in my Travel Directory.

Have you visited Lake Elmenteita? How much do you LOVE flamingos?

Nairobi National Park. The muzungu’s first city safari!

A city safari in Nairobi National Park. An early morning game drive to match any safari in the bush!

It seemed weird to leave our four-star city hotel and drive through commuter traffic for an early morning safari. Usually, it’s a question of stumbling out of a tent into the Bush… [Note to self: next time, don’t miss the safari vehicle when it leaves the hotel!] If you’ve seen the incongruous-looking photographs of wildlife in front of a modern urban background, then you may know I’m talking about Nairobi National Park (which is actually in Kenya’s capital, making it very accessible for weekend or business visitors).

Safarilink aerial view Nairobi National Park

A flight with Safarilink shows the proximity of Nairobi National Park to Kenya’s capital

Despite many wonderful safari experiences in Uganda, notably while working for the Uganda Conservation Foundation, this was my first safari in Nairobi National Park and my first time to see White Rhino, Thomson’s Gazelle, Wildebeest, Eland, Ostrich and Reticulated Giraffe in the wild. (Uganda has Eland but they are very shy, and Ostrich are in the remote northeastern park of Kidepo).

Nairobi National Park is a pocket-handkerchief-sized 117 km² and the animal diversity is pretty amazing! The park is home to to 100s of species – elephant being one of the few that are missing. You’ll have to go to Maasai Mara, Amboseli or Tsavo – among many other conservancies and National Parks – to see elephants.

Safarilink aerial view Nairobi National Park

Aerial view of Nairobi National Park in the rain

Immediately we entered the park, there were the familiar smells of damp vegetation and animal manure. It smells like a National Park, it sounds like a National Park, and the variety of wildlife we encountered was soon to demonstrate that we really were in a National Park, despite it being surrounded on three sides by human development. Small aircraft flying overhead gave the Park another dimension. (You might say Nairobi National Park is boxed in from the air too).

pemba warthog Nairobi National Park

‘Pemba’ the Swahili for warthog, Nairobi National Park. Photo Kenya Tourist Board / Magical Kenya

We passed the site where the Kenya Wildlife Service made history and burned the stockpile of confiscated elephant ivory. Kenya has taken bold steps to tackle poaching. It is well documented that the sale of legally gotten ivory (through the natural death of an elephant, for example) has stimulated unprecedented demand for ivory in China and fuelled the catastrophic levels of ivory poaching across Africa.

Nairobi National Park ivory

“If no elephant ever complained about the weight of their tusks, why take them off?” ‪#‎WorthMoreAlive‬ Kenya Wildlife Service

 

Kenya ivory burning #worthmorealive

Click on this image to read why “Why it makes sense to burn #elephant and #rhino #ivory stockpiles…” #worthmorealive

The destruction of ivory, sometimes by burning, but these days by crushing, is the only answer. The temptation to steal confiscated ivory (valued at several thousand US dollars per kilo) is too much for many, and the penalties for being caught not harsh enough.

Early morning, our driver Anthony communicated in Kiswahili by radio with the other drivers in our safari convoy and announced that another driver had just spotted a pride of eleven lions ahead of us. (You can imagine our excitement!) We paused above a wooded ravine but it seemed the big cats had gone to cover. They were (understandably) not in a rush to come out and be gawped at by us lot!

Mohawk lion Nairobi National Park. Photo Will Knocker

RIP Mohawk the lion, seen here in his natural habitat: the sad reality is that lions which leave the safety of Nairobi National Park will be lost in the surrounding city and killed. Photo Will Knocker

Instead of seeing lions, we were rewarded with seeing three White Rhino.

Nairobi National Park has a population of 27 White Rhino. It was wonderful to see them in the wild! (To date, I’ve only seen White Rhino at Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary in Uganda. Uganda’s own population of Black and White Rhino are extinct).

Nairobi National Park white rhino

Look carefully and you will spot three of Nairobi National Park’s white rhinos !

[Note to self: wear something warm if you’re going on an early morning game drive when the safari vehicle pop-up roof is open!]

ostrich, wildebeest. Nairobi National Park safari

An ostrich and a wildebeest. Ostrich are much bigger than I had imagined them to be. Uglier too! We saw five of these big birds in Nairobi National Park

 

Nairobi National Park dazzle of zebra

Did you know… a group of zebras are called a DAZZLE? Common zebra grazed one side of the dirt track

 

Nairobi National Park giraffe zebras wildlife safari

My most memorable moment of our Nairobi safari was watching the single, elegant giraffe walking slowly down the track towards us

It peered at us through the open roof as it brushed the side of the van. With gasps of excitement as the giraffe walked within inches of us, not one of us professional travel writers, bloggers and photographers managed to take a decent photograph!

Nairobi National Park giraffe zebras wildlife safari

[Note to self: do read the manual before you use your new camera for the first time!]

Next stop was the hippo pools. I’ve seen and written about a gazillion hippo in Uganda, so I was far more interested in learning the ecology of Nairobi National Park. The park signage, developed by Friends of Nairobi National Park, has excellent information about the network of man-made reserves that water the park and its inhabitants.

Wildlife is under immense pressure by human encroachment. Nowhere demonstrates this better than Nairobi National Park: human development on three sides of the park; planes flying overhead; the need to install water systems for the wildlife because the human populations are preventing water reaching the park. Controversially, infrastructure projects such as the Standard Gauge Railway have also been designed to go through the park. I’m a big fan of train travel – as you may remember from my trip on the Lunatic Express from Nairobi to Mombasa but I believe that one day Kenyans will regret the decision to let the train route go through the park (many are bitterly against it). Why can’t the SGR and the bypass be rerouted around the outside of the park? Why can’t underpasses be built? The deal has been done. We just pray disturbance of animals is kept to a minimum.

Have you been on safari in Nairobi National Park?

I really enjoyed our early morning game drive and saw many species I had never seen before. A safari in Nairobi National Park is a fantastic day out if you have limited time in the capital.  It’s a delightful way for people who live in Nairobi to (re)connect with their incredible natural heritage too.

Vervet Monkey Nairobi National Park

Vervet Monkey waiting for me to put something in the bin…. so he can quickly remove it again! Near the hippo pools, Nairobi National Park

Where to find more info on safaris in Nairobi National Park

I think that if I lived in Nairobi, I would volunteer with Friends of Nairobi National Park. Check out their web site, plus the management’s own Nairobi National Park website and the Kenya Wildlife Service’s Nairobi National Park and Nairobi Safari Walk pages.

Wildlife fans will have to visit the Nairobi Animal Orphanage too! (It’s located in Nairobi National Park so you can visit after your game drive).

Feeding cheetahs, Nairobi Animal Orphanage, Kenya

Feeding the cheetahs at Nairobi Animal Orphanage. PHOTO Nairobi Animal Orphanage

Bottle-feeding lion cub, Nairobi Animal Orphanage, Kenya

MIAW! Bottle-feeding a lion cub at Nairobi Animal Orphanage. PHOTO Nairobi Animal Orphanage

If you enjoyed my blog about Nairobi National Park, feel free to share it!

Have you read The Muzungu’s top 10 reasons for visiting #MagicalKenya?

How to hike Bwindi. A jungle adventure with Gorilla Highlands

Have you experienced the real jungle? Bwindi hiking is the real deal

Been walking in the woods? Try walking in the jungle! Hiking Bwindi Impenetrable Forest from North (Buhoma) to South (Nkuringo) – with (I hoped) the slight possibility of glimpsing a Mountain Gorilla en route – is a hike I’ve wanted to do for ages. Are you planning to to gorilla trekking in Uganda? Stay an extra day and do this hike too.

hiking Bwindi

8 hours, 17 km, 3 waterfalls and 16 new friends #Edirisatreks hiking Bwindi

Walking through Bwindi is the real deal.

It’s a world of dense greenery, layer after layer of vegetation, common plants in uncommon sizes, babbling brooks and smooth round boulders to hop across patches of bog; a wonderful series of waterfalls – so much more to see in the forest than I’d even imagined (especially if you have a knowledgeable guide or two). Gorilla trekking is a not-to-be-missed experience, but Bwindi has brilliant hiking adventures too.

I’m now trying to work out which hiking Bwindi trail can the Muzungu do next?…

hiking Bwindi

UWA entrance sign to Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda

Every good hike starts with a good breakfast and Buhoma Lodge rise to the challenge: platters of fresh fruit, thin pancakes with honey, cereals, traditional cooked English breakfast, toast and fresh coffee – I enjoy every single one of those guilty carbs in preparation for our day-long walk.

hiking Bwindi. Buhoma Lodge

Breakfast spread at Buhoma Lodge, Bwindi, Gorilla Highlands, #Edirisatreks hiking Bwindi

The only problem with Buhoma Lodge in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda is that it is the first place we visit, and nowhere else quite compares to it for the rest of our trip. Leaving Buhoma Lodge feels like leaving home – in fact my return trip is planned before I leave the building. I love the fact that all the staff come out to say goodbye to us, even the masseuse and the chef!

Everywhere we walk, we are accompanied by smiling faces. This Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger has such a lovely smile. He doesn’t say much but he keeps a good eye on us all day.

UWA ranger, hiking Bwindi Uganda

A smiling UWA ranger, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda

At the entrance to the park, our guide Blasio points to the Nyaga river and the nearby hills of the Congo.

Bwindi is home to seven types of primate. Its most famous primate inhabitants are the mountain gorilla, whose population roam between Uganda, the Congo and Rwanda. Bwindi – and specifically Buhoma, where we start our trek – has the world’s highest concentration of mountain gorillas and is the main centre for gorilla trekking. Bwindi is also home to chimpanzees and Red tailed monkeys [my namesake nkima] are a particular favourite of mine as regular Diary readers may remember from my first trip to Bwindi.

Bwindi is also home to a small (and rarely seen) population of Forest elephants, who are smaller than their more well-known Savannah African elephant relatives.

hiking Bwindi

The Muzungu crosses one of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest’s rivers, on a previous hike, following the Ivy River trail from Nkuringo

Moss-covered bridges constructed of twigs and branches lead us across brooks and streams and into the heart of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

The wide fronds of giant fern trees are like huge hands waving us their welcome. Their fronds unfurl like a beckoning finger, to invite us deeper into the interior.

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I love ferns – aren’t they elegant? #Edirisatreks with Gorilla Highlands in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

The scenery is breathtaking, the air is pure, and the only sounds are natural ones: water, birdsong, the leaves dropping from the branches overhead. As I’m taking it all in, mesmerised, a kaleidoscope of small yellow butterflies dance through the air ahead of me. “Didn’t Disney do a great job?” Quips John, the voice from Gorilla Highlands videos.

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest is home to hundreds and thousands of exotic and rare plant species. Many are endemic. I particularly like the larger-than-life plants. Here ferns grow to three and four metres tall. We crane our necks to stare up at 100-year-old Mahogany tree and take pictures of the pink Impatience flower (a favourite with the gorillas apparently). The flowers gain their name from their quick life-cycle: they open in the morning and drop to the forest floor after just one day.

Looking down at my feet, I notice I am following in the footprints of a duiker.

Duiker footprint, hiking Bwindi

Duiker (small antelope) footprint, Bwindi Impenetrable Forest with Gorilla Highlands. Diary of a Muzungu

Our guide points to a vibrant Mother of Pearl butterfly. On forest hikes in Uganda, indescribably beautiful butterflies appear from nowhere. Keep your eyes peeled, they flit in and out of your life in seconds. Perhaps that’s their appeal?

Mother of Pearl butterfly. Image courtesy of www.learnaboutbutterflies.com

When 17 people are excitedly tramping through the forest, birdlife and wildlife hides… unsurprisingly! I was happy to focus on the giant plants and the microscopic fungus. Nature is amazing – even if it doesn’t ROAR at you.

fungus, hiking Bwindi

Tiny fungus thrive on the underside of a log on our #gorillahike with Gorilla Highlands in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Taking a decent photo in a the Impenetrable Forest is not easy with a very average camera like mine, so you will forgive the rather dark fuzzy pictures – but you get a sense of the place: wall to wall prolific greenery, rivers and waterfalls, in fact a series of three waterfalls that we explore on an hour’s walk from Buhoma.

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Diary of a Muzungu leaves the laptop at home for the week-end… Waterfalls beckon. Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Uganda

The water is cool and clear. I could have (should have) had a dip at the river junction – Miha did!

Bwindi hiking – above the waterfalls!

Take time to visit all three of Bwindi’s waterfalls. Each one is different.

Check out my minimalist (short!) videos of the waterfalls in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

The cold clean water and surrounding environment make you feel so alive.

I’m amazed at how few tour operators insist on having this on a safari itinerary. The walk to the waterfalls is the perfect antidote to being stuck in a vehicle for hours or days. The Gorilla Highlands initiative is all about spending more quality time in the region – gorilla trekking in Uganda? Yes, a brilliant experience, but there’s so much more to see and do in south western Uganda.

I loved every minute of our eight hour walk through the Forest, crossing rivers, stopping at waterfalls, taking photos of plants and fungus along the way.

Bwindi hiking

Walking through Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – ahhhh – the peace, the cool air, the solitude….

Along the way there are warnings of Safari ants. “Don’t tuck your trousers into your socks. We want to see you JUMP!” Jokes Miha.

hiking Bwindi safari ants

These unassuming and faint marks on the ground are actually industrious Safari ants. Their organisational skills are mind-blowing. They march in one direction delivering chopped up leaves, and back in the other direction empty-handed, for a refill. Round and round they go. Not a single one of them deviates from the direction set by the others.

By mid-afternoon, our group has been walking for several hours. We walk at different speeds and are spaced out at intervals through the Forest, escorted by numerous guides and UWA rangers. There is a shout from someone up ahead:“Red ants!” – and I watch the person ahead of me suddenly start running uphill for 100 metres, trying not to stop long enough for the tenacious red ants to cling on to their boots.

And then it’s my go. Somehow I find the energy to run uphill. At the top – beyond the red ants at least – there is a frenzy of excited laughter and furious stamping of feet as we jump up and down to get rid of the red ants. If ever an animal was tenacious, it is the red ant! Their bite is unforgiving but the incident is quickly forgotten.

View Bwindi Impenetrable Forest Ivy River Nkuringo. Gorilla Highlands

View of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest as we ascend from the River Ivy up to Nkuringo. You can clearly see where the protected area of the forest is bordered by community land

 Bwindi hiking tips

  • Have a small day bag (rucksack) and make sure it’s waterproof. Pack water (minimum one litre), lunch, waterproof clothing and camera.
  • Forget about your phone. Turn the damn thing off.
  • Take a walking pole or stick. It will help steady you when climbing over rocks and slippery slopes.
  • Ideally you should wear walking boots that cover and support your ankle as you climb over rocks and tree roots. Trainers may be okay – if you don’t mind getting your feet wet! There are occasional boggy patches and the ground everywhere can be wet and muddy.

Sun peaks through canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

Sun peaks through the canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – but climbing on the uneven terrain of slippery tree roots can be difficult if you don’t have the right footwear

  • Keep your mouth shut when you look up through the trees – we spotted quite a few spider’s webs as we looked up!
  • Take your camera but be aware that photography is difficult as the forest is quite dark.
  • I love birdwatching but forest birds can be hard to see. On my first trip to Bwindi, I hired an expert bird guide. This made all the difference. He was able to mimic the birdsong and call them out of the forest! Forest birds (like those of Kibale Forest) have my favourite songs. You may not see a lot of birds, but you will certainly hear them. Did you know Bwindi was voted the number one destination in Travel Africa magazine’s list of top 10 birdwatching sites in Africa?
  • Wear gaiters to keep the ants and other insects out of your boots / trousers / knickers! Failing that, tuck long trousers into long socks.

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    Do not mess with safari ants! You see how aggressive this little fella can be? Macro photo taken with Safari ant waving his pincers at us, protecting the worker ants

  • You don’t have to do the full hike to enjoy Bwindi’s waterfalls. Allow 2 to 3 hours to take in the series of three main waterfalls. A shorter one hour walk takes you to the first waterfall (only). You can then circle back to your starting point in Buhoma.
  • Support the Conservation Through Public Health charity’s work to protect the gorillas by staying at their very affordable Gorilla Camp.

Baby gorilla. Gorilla trekking Uganda

My first encounter with a baby mountain gorilla, dangling by one arm several metres above my head. An earlier trip to Buhoma, Bwindi

  • Take a tour of Bwindi Community Hospital. Gorilla trekking in Uganda has helped develop Uganda’s best hospital outside Kampala. An amazing achievement for this very poor and once forgotten corner of Africa. I’m very proud of my VSO colleagues and friends who have helped develop Bwindi Community Hospital. The hospital has a very useful page on public transport options for reaching Bwindi (Buhoma) from Kampala.
  • To organise a hike through Bwindi, contact Uganda Wildlife Authority. Crossing Bwindi is also the potential start of the Gorilla Highlands Trails.
  • In 2015, the cost for a tourist (“foreign non-resident”) to do the trek from Buhoma to Nkuringo is $70 ($40 for entry into the National Park plus $30 for the guided nature walk). For Ugandans (and EAC citizens) the costs are 25k UGX (15k UGX for entry into the National Park plus 10k UGX for the guided nature walk). See this Gorilla Highlands page for more information on costs for Bwindi hiking.

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How to climb Uganda’s Rwenzori Mountains – trekking Margherita Peak

Are you thinking of climbing Margherita Peak or trekking the Rwenzori Mountains? Then read this first!

Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu! This week’s guest post is by Jane Goldring, with photos for this story kindly provided by her husband and brilliant photographer Paul.

If you’re planning to climb Margherita, or just interested in hiking or mountain climbing in Uganda, look no further. Below Jane’s story, you’ll find a Rwenzori trekking packing list and some travel advice on how to plan your Rwenzori hike, as well as links to other East African mountain climbing stories (notably How to Climb Mount Kilimanjaro – tales of a novice climber and A girl called Kevin: Climbing Mount Elgon, Uganda).

Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita. Rwenzori Trekking Services Kilembe Trails map Uganda

Rwenzori Trekking Services Kilembe Trails map Uganda

Jane writes: 

Rwenzori trekking – Day one

After an early start and a traditional Western breakfast, we left Kasese for the start of our Rwenzori trek, a 30 minute drive out of town past the Margherita Hotel towards Kasese Cobalt mine. We had been warned we could not get right the way up to the Rwenzori Trekking Services office due to a flood and rock slide which had taken out the bridge and last part of the road. Finding our guides Moses and Richard en route, we had help hauling our luggage up the hill to the RTS offices, where it was time for the formalities: sharing details of medical issues, insurance, food allergies and emergency contacts. It was here that we signed up the sixteen porters needed to carry our luggage, equipment, fuel, food and other supplies our group would need to trek the Rwenzori Mountains.

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Rwenzori trekking: the adventure started even before Jane had entered the National Park – the road from Kasese had been swept away…. How to hike Margherita Peak

And so at 9:45am we started trekking up the road past the dilapidated mine housing estate which was buzzing with life: ducks in the muddy gulleys, chickens, goats and even a pig or two, as well as people going about their daily life in the little duuka shops, bars and houses with long lines of clothes washing.

At the entrance of the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, trekking formalities concluded with payment of park entry fees (see Tips section of this article for the different tariffs).

Now in the Park, we started up the path in a single file through forested slopes and arrived at the first stopover, Sine Hut, at about 4:00pm. At 2596 metres, Sine Hut is situated on top of a long ridge amongst pine and other trees. Steep slopes on either side of the ridge lead down into deep valleys and amply flowing rivers. Similar to a traditional Alpine wooden hut, Sine Hut has a terrace and four sets of bunk beds. A flask of hot water for tea and bowl of fresh water for washing awaited us, after which our short exploration of the area revealed a valley river and a small waterfall of icy water.

Back at Sine Hut, it was time for our first dinner up the mountain. Our three course meal of soup, main and dessert was very tasty, with huge quantities of carbohydrates that we struggled to finish. A couple of rounds of cards and soon we were feeling rather tired and so, not long after dark, we all retired to bed as mist started to roll in with the cool air.

Rwenzori trekking – Day two

Day two’s trekking started at 8:30am (after a hearty breakfast of cereal, omelette, toast and bacon too!) through a forested area, with glimpses of more Rwenzori foothills through the gaps in the trees ahead. We were lucky to see L’Hoests monkeys and heard the calls of Rwenzori Turacos – but did not see any yet. Due to the last few months’ excessive rains, we also saw areas of landslides where the ground seemed to still be sliding down the mountainside. As the mist rolled in, we saw no more. We walked along the path on the mountain’s edge; while we figured there was a steep drop, we could not see anything. The path became rockier and, as we scrambled over rocks, we focused our energy and vision on each step in front of us.

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Waterfalls. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita.

Our lunchtime sandwiches next to a fast flowing river were interrupted when the heavens suddenly opened. We changed into our gum boots (or Wellington boots as the British call them) and rain gear and set off again almost immediately – trying to beat the weather. After some time I realized that I was feeling very cold and wet. Guess what? The freezing cold rain – we were now over 2000 metres high – was going directly through that wonderful North Face jacket from Kathmandu. Luckily my porter was nearby and I had a spare rainjacket (a cheapie ‘security guard style one’ from Entebbe Supermarket). The spare rainjacket and dry sweater saved the day, even if I didn’t look as fashionable as the rest of the party in their good quality rainjackets.

Shrouded in mist and wet from the recent rain, the Alpine zone plants were a little unreal; the wonderland of large overpowering plants and trees draped in white “Old Man’s Beard” (Usnea) gave me the feeling of being in a movie set.

Our next camp – Mutima Cave – was at an altitude of 3688 metres. Here a couple of tents were placed under a rocky overhang forming a rather makeshift, but very welcoming, overnight stop. We enjoyed an evening keeping warm around the fire and chatting with two very energetic and fit Dutch ladies who proudly told us they had just managed to summit Margherita Peak. They had lost a day due to bad weather and so had just completed two days of Rwenzori trekking in just one day – 10 hours of fast hiking – so that they could keep to their tight schedules. A little daunting for us not quite so fit ones.

Rwenzori trekking – Day three

Being now seasoned mountaineers, after two days on the go, we were up and ready in no time at all with our gum boots on (and taped to our waterproof trousers, just to be sure), sun gear, enough layers of clothing to put on / take off as the need arose, our snacks ready at hand and lots of drinking water.

The day begun a little cool and dull, but with no rain to begin with, which we were pleased about as this was our first real day of hiking through the bogs. Negotiating the boggy ground requires you watch every step to ensure the ground really is solid, or at least only a shallow bit of mud, as you zig zag upwards as a cross. A long walking pole proved to be well worthwhile here.

By 11:00 am the skies had opened again and we trudged along in the rain for a good part of the day with visibility not much more than a few metres at a time. In the afternoon, the weather improved and the sun came out and we suddenly saw the wonderful views of the Rwenzori Mountains – range after range of them. It also became very noticeable how the whole area we had been walking through had been badly damaged during the fire of February 2012.

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Fire damaged vegetation is starting to regrow. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita.

Burnt stumps of trees or bushes were everywhere; fortunately, new small plants and shoots were appearing but I have been told it may take up to 20 years for these areas to fully recover since many plants grow at quite a slow rate at this high attitude.

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Glimpse of the peaks. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita Peak

By 11:00 am we had reached the high point of 4400 metres and were at the top of the pass where you have views towards Mount Stanley and Baker’s. The sun was shining and, despite the altitude headache, we could not have enjoyed clearer, better views. This is what we had come to see – wonderful indeed!

Next, we began the descent to another river valley; you might think that going down would be easier but not in the Rwenzoris – still you need to balance and check where to step (plus endure the continual impact on your knees as you land your weight on each one). Seeing a Scarlet-tufted Malachite Sunbird enjoy the weather was a highlight of our two 2 hour hike to the bottom of the hill. After lunch we set off again “just around the corner” of a lake, as our guide Richard called it. We continued around the tranquil-looking lake on what appeared to be a used route (but not what you would call a path as there were huge boulders higher than me) as well as clips, hills and weaving areas of mud that we had to make our way through.

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Descent to a river valley – not as easy as it looks! Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

By this stage our fit and fast hiker Helen was way ahead with Moses, one of our guides. Next there were me and Andrew with Paul bringing up the rear, all coping in our various personal ways with the hiking conditions.

Our guide Richard was doing a wonderful job, showing me the best routes and where to step. At other times he hung back to help ensure Andrew and Paul were coping well too. By around 4:00 pm we were “around the corner” (which you may have gathered was not quite the usual corner we imagine but rather longer indeed) and in a valley. Here we could see the next section of our hike towards our next camp: Hunwick’s Camp at 3974 metres, which of course was over the next hill and into the next valley… We started through the bog again – tussock-hopping and choosing as many ‘low mud impact footholds’ as we could and then up the hill……quite a tough one for the end of a long day like this. We eventually rocked into Hunwick’s Camp at around 6.00 pm totally exhausted and feeling like we have reached the end of our energy levels. Thank goodness the weather had held and we were able to see the wonderful views of Mount Baker with its snow and glacier blinking in the late afternoon sun.

rwenzori trekking ruwenzori. Hunwick's Camp Uganda

View from Hunwick’s Camp. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita Peak

The headache was there again and some swelling of our face and ankles were starting to be apparent (first signs that our bodies were not doing well in the altitude). Andrew’s feet were killing him as he was wearing gum boots with such thin soles he felt he could “tell if a coin placed underneath his boot was head or tails.”

That night was cold. Despite two sleeping bags, two layers of clothes, my hat and a fleece over the top of that, the wind whistled around our camp and seemed to find cracks to blow directly into my back. Getting up for the inevitable night time pee was not fun and I came back to bed exhausted from the effort, feeling quite short of breath at times. It was at this point that I began to wonder what I was doing all this for.

Rwenzori trekking – Day four – and a day off

The next morning my small mirror revealed a new face – one that was so puffy and swollen that my eyes were just small slanty slits, the effect of not coping well with the altitude, I was told. I therefore decided I would not go on further to Margherita Peak but rather have a rest day and then return downwards (which actually involved going back up to 4400 metres before the real descent). Andrew and Paul followed suit while we waved Helen off as she decided to push onto the Peak.

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A day’s rest at Lake Kitandara. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

We spent the day relaxing and enjoying sunshine, taking a stroll down into the nearby valley near the twin lake of Kitandara. It felt wonderful to walk without time pressure and to stop and enjoy the scenery.

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A botanist’s dream: the Rwenzori plants are out of this world – huge and strikingly beautiful.

We stopped at Lake Kitandara Hut, where we met a geology student with her team. She explained that Mount Baker has risen at least 3 mm each year for the last few years, possibly due to extreme heat and pressure in the base of the Rwenzori Mountain range in the earth’s crust. The mountain is actually moving slowly northwards too.

We basked in the late afternoon sunlight until it disappeared behind the tops of the mountains – and evening arrived quite suddenly.

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Space age insulated accommodation! Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

The accommodations were very comfortable, especially considering where we were. We slept in two rounded, framed huts with waterproof outer covers and insulated walls. Each hut has four sets of bunk beds. Meals and copious cups of tea are taken at the tables and benches in the separate dining tent.

Rwenzori trekking – Day six

After a rather restless night worrying about going back up the mountain to go down, we woke early. After our usual heavy breakfast, we hiked back down into the valley “Around the Corner” and back along the lakeside before taking a short break and then heading up the river valley again. It was tough going and quite warm too. The stream provided wonderful clean water to help quench our thirst and, closer to the top, we looked backward for a full view of so many mountains: Mount Stanley and numerous peaks, including Alexandra, Elena and Mount Speke, Mount Baker, Weisman and other peaks we tried to identify thanks to the lovely, clear blue skies.

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Watching the world go by… Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

Over the top of the Banwanjara Pass, we sat for some time watching the clouds move up and around Mount Stanley tantalizing us as we kept hoping to see Margherita Peak. As clouds cleared, we watched; at the last moment the clouds would change their minds and U-turn to block out that section again and again. The sun was lovely and warm and the striking views all around us were perfect; just what we felt we deserved after all the tough hiking.

However it was not over yet for the day and reluctantly we moved down through the areas of open rock, bogs and riverbeds full of boulders, previously climbed in misty, wet conditions. Evidence of the fire of 2012 was quite prevalent in this area and, looking back towards Kasese, we could see range after range of Rwenzori Mountains, making us realize the large distance we had covered over the last few days.

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Bugata Camp. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

Arriving at Bugata Camp was like returning home: warm showers and hot cups of tea were ready for us. This time we had the pleasure of swapping mountain stories and sharing the camp with visitors who had just completed Margherita Peak.

Rwenzori trekking – Day seven

From this point, we had to decide which final route we would take down the mountain: the different (harder) route or the same (easier) route by which we came up. We opted for the easier route in the end (I think our guides and porters were quite pleased with our choice too).

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Board walks help trekkers cross bogs and swamps. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

The route that had taken us over 7 hours up, now only took us around 5 hours down, even with stopping to photograph many of the plants and scenery we had missed due to the bad weather on the upward journey.

We were back at Mutima Cave by mid-afternoon, where it was time to reorganize our luggage, dry out our socks by the fire and munch our way though some of our leftover snacks – suddenly with the lower altitude we were feeling peckish. After dinner we sat around the fire recounting stories and sipping our little flask of Whiskey or Amarula that we now felt it was safe to consume (apparently alcohol is not good for you at altitude) until we finally retired to bed, feeling rather relaxed and more comfortable at this lower altitude.

Rwenzori trekking – Day eight

A relaxed start of the day, heading for Kalalana Camp at 3134 metres which we had passed on our route. Here the beautiful Giant Lobelia stand almost two metres high with their long stems, purple flowers and leaves that hold the rainwater like a basin. Next we entered the Heather Zone. This same low-lying bushy plant (typical of the British countryside) grows into trees of over 15 metres high; often their branches are covered in the white Old Man’s Beard. Presumably we had become more hardy and a bit fitter; whilst the route was still quite rocky or boggy at times, we found the route quite pleasant and enjoyable. Through the day we had clear views back towards Kasese Town, making us realize how far we had hiked and why we felt quite tired from the exertion of the last week.

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The vegetation is larger than life! Giant Lobelia. Rwenzori trekking: how to hike Margherita

By around 3:00 pm we were in camp where we relaxed in the afternoon sunshine, feeling so much more energetic now that we were down to just 3100 metres. We sat down to hear Helen tell us about her journey to the Peak: Margherita. She had enjoyed a cloud- and wind-free morning – perfect conditions for a summit day.

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Not everyone manages to summit Margherita Peak – but Helen did. Rwenzori trekking: snow on the Equator!

We heard how tough it was hiking in crampons up the two glaciers and how she’d had to step over deep, dodgy-looking crevices in the ice. Helen had succeeded in reaching the Peak at 5109 metres above sea level – quite an achievement for sure.

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Margherita Peak is 5109 metres above sea level

Our last evening up the mountain, we celebrated with the last few snacks and a good dinner of fresh roasted chicken (that had miraculously arrived up the mountain from a resupply from Kasese), the last of our “bar” and swapped anecdotes from the journey of the last eight days. By 10:00 pm we were all fast asleep, even with the wind howling and the rain battering our hut roof.

Rwenzori trekking – Day nine

The last day arrived with gloomy skies threatening rain but nothing could scare us now, so off we set again downwards, through the bamboo zone, slipping and sliding down the slopes and into the afro Alpine mountain forest zone. We wound our way down very steep paths that I could not quite believe I had managed to climb only a week earlier. The path seemed to go on forever and it was only around 2:00 pm that we made it to a recognizable point. At the park entry gate, the same clerk who had signed us in to Rwenzori Mountains National Park now asked us to sign out.

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Three-horned Chameleon putting on a show for the cameras. Rwenzori trekking Ruwenzori Mountains, Uganda

The final hour Rwenzori trekking was through hillside villages and finally onto the road via the Kasese Cobalt Mine village and the Rwenzori Trekking Services office and home base where we were warmly welcomed back – and offered an ice cold beer – just the ticket indeed! After a few photos and a small award ceremony with our guides and porters who had been so patient and helpful the whole journey, we headed to Ndali Lodge for a couple of nights of rest and relaxation after this epic journey.

What a sense of achievement we all felt having made it up the mountain and back and experiencing everything it had to offer – both positive and negative – sunshine, rain, cold, mud, wonderful views, plants, birds, beauty, balancing challenges and much more.

ABOUT THE WRITER: Jane and her husband Paul Goldring are co-owners of destination management company G&C Tours Ltd, owners of Wild Frontiers Uganda, one of Uganda’s leading tour operators. Their “who’s who” of famous celebrity, TV and film maker clients choose to stay at Exclusive Camps Uganda’s fabulous Ishasha Wilderness Camp in Queen Elizabeth National Park, the sensational Buhoma Lodge in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and – the latest addition – Baker’s Lodge in Murchison Falls National Park. The company’s unique Platinum Mobile camping services (incorporating chartered fly / drive options) provide flexible luxury accommodation across the country.

Planning your Rwenzori trekking – what to consider before you book

About the Rwenzori Mountains

Rwenzori Mountains National Park was gazzetted [made into a national park] in 1991 and is recognized as both a World Heritage site and a Ramsar site. The park is 996km2 and the mountain range’s highest point is Margherita Peak – 5,109m above sea level – on Mt Stanley, a mountain that is bisected by the border with the Democratic Republic of Congo. The Rwenzoris were christened the “Mountains of the Moon” by the Alexandrine geographer Ptolemy in AD 150. Read more about the

Rwenzori Mountains National Park on the Uganda Wildlife Authority web site.
Route

Remember: you don’t have to climb – or summit – Margherita Peak itself. There are a range of shorter hiking options, all with the same dramatic backdrops.

Best time of year for Rwenzori trekking

Feedback from friends suggests that January, February and March are the best months to trek as it is the driest time of the year.

I almost climbed the Rwenzori Mountains… I had just I climbed Uganda’s Mt. Elgon with volunteer friends, but my knee injury on day one of our five-day trek meant I was still out of action when my friends summited the Rwenzori’ s Margherita Peak that November. When I asked whether they had enjoyed their trip, they said NO! …. After all their planning and training? I couldn’t quite believe it! Their mistake? They had chosen to hike during the rainy season when certain sections of the trek are hellishly boggy, making progress very difficult and tiring. Time your hike right, and you will enjoy this once-in-a-lifetime experience far more.

Fitness and medical issues

Rwenzori trekking requires a good level of fitness. You will be asked about your general health when you book your trek.

Altitude sickness can be a problem for many people. I know, I’ve had it. It’s not nice. (Think combination of seasickness and sunstroke, with a banging headache for good measure). The best way to avoid altitude sickness is to ascend slowly. It’s highly recommended that you consider taking a day off mid-climb, as Jane did, to acclimatise to the high altitude. Even if you don’t summit, you may benefit from a day’s rest and acclimatisation. Having experienced altitude sickness myself, I will definitely take a rest day when I climb the Rwenzoris.

Insurance

If you’re planning to climb the Ruwenzori’s, particularly if you are climbing Margherita, you are advised to take out travel insurance.

Emergency contacts

You will need to provide these when you sign the disclaimer form before starting your trek.

Who to trek the Rwenzoris with

Rwenzori Trekking Services are generally acknowledged as the best operator in Uganda for trekking the Rwenzoris. Their tours are inclusive of Rwenzori Mountains National Park entry fees, which are $35/day (2020 price for international tourists ‘foreign non-resident’ visiting the Rwenzoris).

Uganda’s National Park entry fees vary according to the park visited and whether you are Ugandan, East African resident or a tourist ‘foreign non-resident.’ Download the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s Tariff (price list) 2020-2022 which contains all National Park entry fees, hiking, gorilla and chimp tracking permits, birdwatching, boat cruises and more.

Planning your Rwenzori trekking – what to pack

Hire a Porter

Porters are allowed to carry a maximum of 15 kg each. This will include your clothes, hiking and camping equipment and all your food. The porters will collect firewood and water every evening for you at camp so you only need to carry one day’s personal supply of drinking water at a time. Do not even think of climbing without the help of a porter – not only will you be able to focus on enjoying the breath-taking scenery, you’re providing valuable employment. Expect to pay $15 per porter per day. A tip of $5-10 per day will make your porter very happy indeed.

Ranger guides

Since you will be walking in the Rwenzori Mountains National Park, you will be allocated two or more armed Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers who will act as your guides throughout the trip. Expect to be Facebook friends by the end of it! These guys will also appreciate a tip.

Walking pole

Invaluable! No need to spend money on one of those fancy walking poles, just ask one of the guides to cut down a piece of bamboo for you.

Waterproof clothing

Don’t scrimp on the quality of your rain jacket. It can make or break your trip. Ensure you only buy the best quality and make sure it is tested. It’s a vital part of your kit on this mountain where it can rain for days on end.

What to carry in your day pack

Your day pack (personal rucksack) should contain your waterproof jacket and waterproof trousers, drinking water, sunscreen, mosquito repellent and snacks.

Snacks

Stock up on plenty of your favourite snacks. G’ nuts (groundnuts), biscuits, bananas and dried fruit will give you more energy than chocolate and sweets.

Water

To keep hydrated at altitude, you will need to drink at least two litres of drinking water per day, even in cold weather. The porters collect and boil water every night. By the time you drink it the next morning, it will have cooled nicely.

Footwear

Hiking boots with ankle support are the best option. Leave your trainers at home, they don’t have enough grip. If you plan to wear Wellington ‘gum’ boots, get some good insoles. My recommendation is to wear ankle-high boots with gaiters, which will keep out a lot of rain and water (and most insects).

Hot water bottle

I love Jane’s tip about the improvised water bottles! However, you could take a proper hot water bottle with you (I certainly will! I remember how bloody cold it was on Mount Elgon at night…) Remember, you will have a porter to carry everything for you.

The Muzungu: thanks Jane for sharing your great adventure! I’m seriously considering trekking the Rwenzoris now – I know how hard it was to get as far as you did, and you’ve proved to me that there is no need to push yourself to the extreme and summit. What a brilliant experience you’ve had!

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