Rwanda Uganda land border reopens after 3 years [UPDATED]
Diary of a Muzungu has crossed from Uganda into Rwanda by road.
UPDATE. May 14th 2022. Hooray! I have crossed the Katuna / Gatuna border; it was very easy.
People entering Rwanda may still be subject to random COVID-19 testing by the Ministry of Health upon entry. However, I didn’t even have to show my vaccination certificates or wear a mask either. Very few people were wearing masks at Gatuna. You don’t have contact tracing if you cross by land borders (no need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form).
Key info: anyone traveling through Kigali International Airport must have a negative PCR test result 72 hours before travelling (no change). This applies even if you are in transit. You also need to fill in a Passenger Locator Form to land in Rwanda. All departing Rwandans must be vaccinated.
Curfew is well and truly lifted. Citizens and Rwandan citizens must be fully vaccinated to access public places (including public transport, but are they checking?) You don’t need to wear a mask in public anymore.
On Monday 30th of January 2022, Rwanda reopened the land border with Uganda at Gatuna / Katuna after a 3-year closure. Other Rwanda land borders reopened on March 7th. I’ve missed my cross-border bus journeys! However, very few people have travelled between Uganda and Rwanda yet this year. Initially it appeared that the Gatuna border only reopened for trade and for nationals of the two countries. The video “advises against non-essential travel.” Unfortunately, tourism must fall into that category. Rwanda Uganda border reopens after three years.
UPDATE: March 5th I met an American passport-holder who travelled by bus from Kigali to Gatuna. She was one of only five people who crossed. She took the bus from Kigali, crossed by foot and then caught a private hire taxi to Kabale.
In recent years it’s been common for international tourists to travel to Uganda and Rwanda on one safari itinerary. During the last three years, few people have been able to do this, unless they have flown into Entebbe (Uganda) and Kigali (Rwanda) International Airports (lockdown measures not withstanding!) Many Ugandans and Rwandans have family both sides of the border.
I am monitoring the situation and updating this blog regularly.
#ExploreUganda #VisitRwanda
A luxury escape to Mombasa – limited offer!
Serena Beach Resort & Spa and Uganda Airlines package departing from Entebbe
Did you know that the 5-star Serena Beach Resort & Spa in Mombasa and Uganda Airlines have teamed up to create a special offer for you? 🌊🌊🌊 Fly direct from Entebbe to Mombasa with Uganda Airlines and pamper yourself at the luxurious Serena Beach Resort & Spa, Mombasa, Kenya. Scroll down for full details of this limited time period offer!
The ocean 🌊🌊 🌊🌊 is the no. 1 thing I missed during lockdown – and the Mombasa Serena Resort was the first place I stayed after two years locked down in Uganda. Below is my TripAdvisor review from July 2021.
Mombasa Serena Resort is everything I wanted it to be: a wide expanse of white sand, friendly courteous staff, some unusual activities and fantastic food (of course).
The Zanzibar Suite was amazing! I loved the bold colourful interior, the day bed and the hot walk-in shower. The spa is simply beautiful. The outdoor yoga area is surrounded by soothing running water.
One of the highlights of our four night stay was dinner by the beach at the Jahazi (Seafood) Grill. NOT TO BE MISSED! The atmosphere was chilled and the food was sensational. I lost count of the number of courses we ate!
The Swahili-themed architecture made for interesting walks around the resort’s compound. On day one, I took the complimentary architectural and cultural tour, led by a member of staff decked in cultural attire. I’m glad I did this at the start of my trip because it meant that the design themes of the resort resonated more with me. (I have written about a similar, superb tour at the Nairobi Serena Hotel).
Some wildlife highlights at Mombasa Serena Resort were watching newly-hatched Green Turtles rush down to the ocean! What an unexpected joy. I also toured the small Butterfly Garden, a lovely experience run by a gentlemen who is clearly passionate about these beautiful creatures. All these activities are complimentary for resort guests.
Charlotte Beauvoisin, Mombasa Serena Resort & Spa, Kenya. TripAdvisor review, July 2021.
Soak up the rays at “the ultimate tropical paradise” on Mombasa’s white sand beach
“Nestled along a pristine, white ribbon of Indian Ocean shoreline on the north coast of Mombasa, Kenya, the 5 star Serena Beach Resort & Spa is a true tropical sanctuary. Privacy and tranquillity are ensured with all accommodation arrayed in intimate, single-storey buildings framed by Swahili architecture and landscaped paths, lush lawns, coconut palms and gardens to create the feel of a traditional Lamu village.”
The limited edition package of $310 (per person per night) includes return flights from Entebbe International Airport, half board accommodation, airport transfers and numerous complimentary activities and discounts. Fly into Moi International Airport, Kenya, and you will be met by a resort representative for the hour and a half drive to Serena Beach Resort & Spa on Shanzu Beach. The resort overlooks a beautiful stretch of white-sand beach adjacent to Mombasa Marine National Park in the Indian Ocean.
The 5 star Serena Beach Resort & Spa Uganda Airlines package includes:
- Return flights from Entebbe to Mombasa with Uganda Airlines
- Minimum stay two nights (additional nights at a special rate)
- Minimum two people
- Half board accommodation (breakfast and dinner)
- Return airport transfers with ‘meet and greet’ services in Mombasa
- 10% discount on superb food at the Jahazi Seafood Grill
- 20% discount on all spa treatments at the fabulous Maisha Spa
- Architectural, cultural and conservation tour of the resort
- Prices are $310 / person per night (extra nights are just $135 / person per night). This offer is for East African residents AND international guests.
Serena Beach Resort & Spa Mombasa is perfect for families, couples, honeymooners and those looking for an adventure. The resort has received the TripAdvisor Travelers’ Choice 2022 and is ranked in the top 10% of properties on TripAdvisor.
Serena Beach Resort & Spa Uganda Airlines package excludes:
- Visa entry charges to Kenya (where applicable)
- Personal items such as drinks, laundry, phone calls, tips to hotel staff, personal travel insurance.
All 74 guest rooms and suites suites at Serena Beach Resort & Spa have private balconies or terraces with ocean views or facing the courtyard gardens. Interiors feature Maasai-inspired hand-painted wall decor, supremely comfortable beds and modern comforts (minibar, complimentary WiFi, flat-screen cable and satellite TV).
Facilities at Serena Beach Resort & Spa
- Beach front, extensive gardens and nature trails
- Gorgeous swimming pool with swim-up bar
- Maisha Mind, Body & Spirit Spa for jacuzzi, massage and beauty treatments
- Fitness centre (gym)
- Air-conditioned squash courts
- Recreational activities include kitesurfing, wind-surfing, beach volleyball and eco trails, glass-bottomed boat trips, wide variety of water sports, PADI dive school (additional charges may apply)
- Butterfly Centre
- Turtle Watch Programme
- ‘Walk-in’ chessboard (with human size chess pieces!)
- Evening entertainment
- Ice cream parlour
- Wedding planning service
- Dedicated world-class event and conference centre
- Travel desk and taxi and limousine service
- Hair salon
- Gift shop
Local landmark attractions in and around Mombasa include
- Arabuko-Sokoke Forest Reserve
- Haller Park / Nature Trail in Mombasa
- Historic Mombasa
- Nyali Golf and Country Club
- Shimba Hills National Reserve
- Tsavo East National Park
- Vipingo Ridge Golf
- Wasini Island
Planning a holiday on the Kenyan coast? Book an all-in package at the 5 star Serena Beach Resort & Spa. Contact Serena Beach Resort & Spa, Mombasa or Kampala Serena Hotel
Uganda kampala@serenahotels.com +256 41 4309 200 / +256 31 2309 000 / +256 20 0415 000 / +256 75 1705 305
Kenya reservations.mombasa@serenahotels.com +254 732 125 000 / +254 727 424 201/2/3
A couple of things to note: Uganda Airlines fly direct between Entebbe, Uganda and Mombasa, Kenya three times a week. Proof of COVID-19 vaccination is a Kenyan government requirement. Serena Hotels child policy: children under two years are complimentary. Children 2 – 4 years 50% off the package rate; children 5 – 11 years 75% off the package rate.
Making an enquiry? Do say Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉
Uganda Wildlife Authority revises conservation fees [UPDATED]
Uganda Wildlife Authority has released a new Conservation Tariff which will be effective from 1st July 2022.
The good news is that there are very few price increases. The most notable change in Uganda Wildlife Authority’s new price list is the increased entry fee to Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda’s most popular safari destination.
You hardly need me to remind you how hard travel – and thus conservation revenue – has been hit during the pandemic. It’s therefore no surprise that the authorities are doing everything they can to raise money. Some might argue that we need discounts to encourage people to travel. However, given conservation’s dire finances recently, I say let’s be grateful how few price increases there are. Now let’s book that safari!
UWA’s summary price list (above) covers National Park and Wildlife Reserve entry fees, gorilla / chimpanzee / golden monkey tracking permits, primate habituation, mountain and volcano hiking, mountain biking, boat hire to watch the Shoebill on Lake Albert.
A few activities that the muzungu is looking forward to doing include:
- Hiring a boat in Toro Semliki wildlife reserve to view the Shoebill on Lake Albert.
- Kidepo Lonyilli summit hike
- Kapkwai sector of Murchison Falls National Park. (Did you know you can get free entry to Kapkwai?)
- Mount Elgon mountain biking. That must be awesome!
- Bushiyi trail extension, the shortest trail to Wagagai, the highest peak on Mount Elgon.
- Chimpanzee tracking at Ngogo (Kibale National Park) a few hundred metres from my home at Sunbird Hill
- Golden monkey habituation in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park. Golden monkeys are very pretty creatures!
Uganda park entry fees – Murchison Falls slight increase
From July 1st 2022, visitors to Murchison Falls National Park can expect to pay:
- Ugandan adults 25,000 Uganda shillings (was 20,000)
- Ugandan children 10,000 Uganda shillings (was 5,000)
- International tourists, adults $45 (was $40)
- International tourists, children $25 (was $20)
- Residents / expats $35 (was $30)
Stephen Masaba of Uganda Wildlife Authority explained to Diary of a Muzungu:
“For Murchison Falls, we observed high speeding and increased road kills (especially of baboons) but have also noted littering and high levels of plastic waste. Of the number of visitors to Murchison, over 10% of these people are just in transit (crossing through the park). The slight fee increase should help curb some of these effects.”
Stephen Sanyi Masaba, Director, Tourism and Business Development, Uganda Wildlife Authority
Although they don’t (yet) have the facilities that more established National Parks do, now might be a time to explore some of Uganda’s less visited protected areas such as Pian Upe and Katonga Wildlife Reserves.
For full details on activities not listed in the summary (game drives, nature walks, birdwatching and more) download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s full conservation tariff for July 2022 to June 2024 here.
Planning a Uganda safari?
Did you know I have a Travel Directory full of tour operators who would love to organise a trip of a lifetime for you? Alternatively, drop me a line and I will make some personal recommendations. Damn, writing this makes me miss the savannah…
Where are you celebrating Easter? Uganda resident specials!
Are you looking for things to do in Kampala and places to stay in Uganda this Easter?
Easter 2022 will be celebrated between 14th and 18th April, come rain come shine! It’s incredibly hot as I write this, so it’s hard to imagine rain! However, rains are certainly due…
Here are a few of Diary of a Muzungu’s suggestions on how to spend the Easter holidays. Am I missing somewhere? (I know I am! Feel free to contact the Muzungu with suggestions or recommendations).
The Easter holiday is a great time to leave Kampala for a few days. Uganda has countless destinations where you can spend the long weekend. Their numbers are mushrooming as you read!
Some hotels and lodges quote in Uganda shillings, others in dollars. I don’t usually quote prices (they date so quickly) so you should always check terms and conditions before making your booking (and do mention a certain ka blog won’t you 😎). Any prices quoted here are for Ugandans and expats / Ugandan residents. (International tourists generally pay higher prices so are not covered in this blog post).
To view images full size, just click on each one. For lodge descriptions and contact details, scroll down…
NOTE: lodge suggestions are grouped by (approximate) location.
Destination Safari! The bush is calling…
To many expats in Uganda, mention the magical words “public holiday” and the first thing they will want to do is disappear on Safari. You simply can’t beat reconnecting with nature (ideally with post-game drive gin and tonic of course!)
Safari destinations, gorillas and volcanoes …
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks
If you’ve ever thought of tracking the gorillas, Easter could be a good time as you need at least two nights in Bwindi or Mgahinga. Since there are fewer international tourists than normal, you should find it easier to get a last-minute gorilla permit. (At the time of writing, permits are still available for Easter 2022, particularly in Ruhija in Bwindi’s southern sector).
Dear would-be gorilla tracker: COVID-19 SOPs require that you wear a mask when you are in the great ape national parks and there must be a minimum of 10 metres distance between you and the animals (formerly it was 7 metres).
Chameleon Hill
Book three nights at the gloriously colourful Chameleon Hill during April 2022 and you have a choice of offers: either pay 3 nights and stay 4 nights; alternatively, pay for 3+ nights and receive a complimentary massage plus a boat excursion. Resident rates are $125 / person sharing in a double/ twin chalet and $175 single occupancy, both on full board basis. Chameleon Hill
+256 (0) 772 72 1818 welcome@chameleonhill.com
Clouds Mt. Gorilla Lodge, Nkuringo, southern Bwindi
For a rate of $230 / person / night sharing, enjoy full board accommodation at Cloud’s, one of Uganda’s top lodges. Get a 10% discount if you stay for Easter weekend. This offer applies to a minimum two-night stay. Tucked in the south-western corner of Bwindi, walk to a vantage point to admire the peaks of some of the Virunga volcanoes and peek into Rwanda and the DRC.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Bunyonyi and Lake Mutanda
Look what Gorilla Highlands dreamed up just for you:
Spend your Easter weekend with a family hike on Lake Bunyonyi, culminating in an Easter egg hunt on Habukomi Island. You can choose between the 3-day Mother of All Treks programme, 2-day Mama Bena’s Bonus or 1-day Islands of Miracles. Each trek combines dugout canoeing and hiking with the Easter Sunday island picnic and egg fun as a complimentary bonus. Don’t feel like walking? Gorilla Highlands can also take you to Habukomi by motorboat!
I have worked with the Gorilla Highlands team on many occasions. They offer awesome, authentic experiences that directly benefit the local community.
Jump in Lake Mutanda [like the girls in the photo] for the best view of the volcanic peaks of Mt Sabinyo and Mt Muhabura, two of the Virunga volcanoes
Gahiza Island Retreat offers a number of room options for Ugandan residents. Bed and breakfast is 150k ugx / double room / night, for example. For Easter 2022, book two nights and take a three-hour boat tour (worth 150k ugx) on Lake Mutanda for free or stay a third night for free!
0775235579 reservationgahizaisland@gmail.com
Buhoma Lodge, Bwindi
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Buhoma Lodge, one of Bwindi’s best, long established high end lodges and pay $155/person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. This is a steal! This Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022.
$5 per person per night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation. I love their work!
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Kibale Forest National Park and Fort Portal
The crater lakes have been enticing visitors to Fort Portal – Uganda’s first “tourism city” – for decades. Popular expat lodges include Ndali Lodge, Kyaninga Lodge, Isunga Lodge, and Papaya Lake Lodge. Each one overlooks its own lake.
If you plan to track chimps, COVID-19 SOPs state that you wear a mask and you must keep a minimum of 10 metres between you and the great apes (formerly it was 7 metres).
To the south of Kibale National Park lies Turaco Treetops “a true jungle experience where comfort meets nature!” On a clear day, you can see the Rwenzori Mountains. Families love the outdoor playground, swimming pool and kids’ playroom. Children and adults alike enjoy the guided nature walk and mountain bike tour (new ‘Giant’ bikes for adults and children are available to hire from the lodge).
Luxury cottages are in secluded locations; standard rooms have (optional) sharing balconies, perfect for families or groups of friends. It’s quite likely Turaco Treetops will be fully booked by the time you read this article but bookmark it for your next weekend away!
+256 (0) 75 715 2323
The Sunbird Hill Experience, Kibale Forest edge (3km from Kanyanchu)
One of the highlights of the Sunbird Hill Experience is the guided walk with Silver, the reformed poacher and ranger, a veritable walking encyclopedia of forest knowledge. Learn about Kibale’s birds and 100s butterfly and moth species at Butterfly Village. Sunbird Hill is set up for those who are passionate about nature. If you’re looking for an immersive experience, look no further. The ridiculously low $30 fee includes expert site guides, half day access to the Birders’ Lounge and refreshments. There is nowhere else like it in Uganda!
Visits to this private site are strictly by prior appointment. WhatsApp +256 (0)701 577784 julia@sunbirdhill.com
All Sunbird Hill activities support In the Shadow of Chimpanzees NGO.
Rweteera Safari Park
Don’t miss Rweteera Safari Park’s Easter offer: free canoeing experience and a guided night walk around the shores of Lake Nyabikere in search of nocturnal animals. Keep your eyes peeled for bushbaby, nightjar and crickets. You’ll know if you hear the chilling shriek of the tree hyrax!
The Easter offer is exclusively for overnight guests. Rates are single $50, double $70 (bed and breakfast). Rweteera Safari Park is within walking distance of Kibale National Park.
WhatsApp 0776862153 rweteerasafaripark@gmail.com
Beyond Fort Portal
Between Fort Portal and Kasese is the Italian-themed Lodge Bella Vista – and pizzeria – that was built by a retired Italian diplomat. The lodge and pool overlook Nyamiteza crater lake. Walk, bike and explore Toro‘s many community tourism attractions.
This Easter, book two nights at Lodge Bella Vista and get 50% off your 3rd night, subject to availability.
+256 773204264 / 759214947 booking@lodgebellavista.com
Queen Elizabeth National Park
Ishasha Wilderness Camp sits on the bend of a river in its own forest. This idyllic spot is regularly visited by wildlife and is the first place I spotted the eye-catching Narina Trogon.
Stay a minimum of 3 nights at Ishasha Wilderness Camp and pay $155 / person for full board (including soft drinks). The rate for kids under 13 is $75. Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Easter Special for East African citizens and residents is valid for April and May 2022. $5 per person night goes to Uganda Exclusive Camps’ Future Generations Trust that contributes to communities and wildlife sustainability and preservation.
+256 772 721 155 reservations@ugandaexclusivecamps.com
Little Elephant Camp
If you love camping – but prefer glamping – head to Little Elephant Camp, rated 5 stars on TripAdvisor. Here families, couples or small groups have their own private, secure camp with a view of Queen Elizabeth National Park just outside the park’s northern boundary.
Facilities include en-suite hot water outdoor “stargazer” shower, private campfire, well-equipped mess/kitchen with refrigeration and purified water, Wi-Fi, and much more. Shop and cook for yourself or pre-order marinated barbecue, fresh ingredients and everything you need for your safari, all delivered ready for your arrival. Easter 2022 promotion price at Little Elephant Camp is $80 per person (accommodation only) based on 2 people sharing. Minimum 2-night stay.
+256 759 537220 / 787 722355 info@littleelephantcamp.com
The Observatory
One of Diary of a Muzungu’s favourite places! Enjoy uninterrupted views of Lake Edward, Lake George, the Kazinga Channel and Lake Nyamusingire from The Observatory, a self-catering holiday home overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park. Two private cottages have splash pool, sauna, hot tub and barbecue area available for your exclusive hire at a very affordable rate. Click here to see gorgeous photos of The Observatory in the Travel Directory.
Kidepo Valley National Park
Did you know that everyone who goes to Kidepo rates it as their favourite National Park? The upmarket Apoka Lodge is the perfect base for a safari in Kidepo Valley. Their Easter 2022 rate is $180 / person / night sharing based on a minimum two-night stay. The rate includes full board meals and one game drive per day. Terms and conditions apply.
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Lake Mburo National Park
Popular lodges include Rwakobo Rock (a personal favourite), Hyena Hill Lodge (I’ve heard great things), Leopard Rest Camp and the one and only Mihingo Lodge.
Lake Albert
Kikonko Eco Lodge is your first address on Lake Albert. Scenic views and a serene atmosphere characterise this small boutique lodge with swimming pool. Here guests can enjoy excellent service from friendly staff and get a peaceful night’s sleep in spacious self-contained cottages with private verandas.
Easter Special: book 2 nights in a double room on a bed & breakfast basis for $120 per night and get a third night and breakfast for free. A family room sleeps up to 4 people (2 adults and 2 children). The Easter rate is $170 for bed and breakfast. An Easter egg hunt is included in the price. Other lodge activities cost between $5 to $20.
+256 784 432 508 info@kikonko.com
Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve and Semliki National Park
It’s confusing to have two very different protected areas with almost identical names! Which is which? Semliki Wildlife Reserve is a savannah park on the southern edge of Lake Albert; Semliki National Park comprises a forest and the famous Sempaya Springs.
Shhh, don’t tell everyone but Semliki Safari Lodge in Toro-Semliki Wildlife Reserve is where you should go when you want to escape the world!
Upgraded and refurbished during the pandemic in classic safari style, Semliki Safari Lodge offers full board and one game drive per day for $160 / person / night over the Easter period. This is based on two sharing for a minimum of two nights. Booking is dependent on availability and is only extended to Ugandan citizens and Ugandan residents with proof of residence. This lodge is ab fab! Read my blog Uniquely Semliki!
+256 414 251 182 / 0772 489 497 reservations@wildplacesafrica.com
Closer to Kampala…
If you don’t have many days off, here are a few ideas for places to visit closer to the capital.
Expat favourite Nkima Forest Lodge has a great swimming pool and is ideal for mountain biking, canoeing, butterfly catching for the children and Shoebill-watching at Mabamba. Nkima Forest Lodge, Mabamba, is sister to Lake Mburo’s excellent Rwakobo Rock.
Call +256 701 865056 / +256 787 429377
Ssesse Islands
Fancy an island adventure?
Banda Island is an-ever popular, well-run location for an Easter weekend.
Rainforest Lodge in Mabira Forest
Mabira Forest is midway between Kampala and Jinja. This popular lodge has a swimming pool and sauna, badminton, volleyball, dartboard and board games. For 1.6 million Uganda shillings, a couple can stay two nights. This Easter 2020 rate is for full board and includes one complimentary bottle of wine. Cheers!
Call +256 782 574271 / +256 701 563437 reservations@geolodgesafrica.com
Jinja
Adventure tourism has taken off in Uganda with most activities based in and around Jinja, the Source of the Nile. Jinja is a favourite getaway for Kampala residents; it has something for everyone. The two new roads – Gayaza to the north and south of Jinja Road – make weekend trips in Jinja easier than ever.
Bungee Bar – and the bungee jump of course!
Uganda’s first – and currently the only – bungee jump overlooks the River Nile. No stomach for the jump? No problem. Take the safer (saner?!) option and watch the bungee from the comfort of the Bungee Bar, a fabulous spot for a sundowner. Bungee Restaurant has an extensive food and cocktail menu and is worth the ride just for the sunset views. to book a bungee jump or to reserve a table at the restaurant.
Call Rob on +256 750 707825 – and tell him the Muzungu sent you 😎
Quad biking and crazy golf for all the family at Bujagali, Jinja
Read my quad biking blog “Eat my dust!”
Also managed by Rob +256 750 707825.
Pony Rides with Nile Horseback Safaris
If you fancy trying something new this Easter holiday, how about a sunset horse ride? The $60 sunset ride – for experienced adult riders – includes beer, local spirits, juice and sodas.
Did you know Nile Horseback Safaris offer 30-minute pony rides for kids aged between 4 and 12 years? Pony rides are between 9 and 11am and 2.30 and 4pm daily (subject to availability of ponies). Children – and adults – can do longer rides if they are experienced horse riders.
Pre-booking is essential for all rides.
+256 774 101196 nilehorsebacksafaris@gmail.com
Things to do at Easter in Kampala
moonbean chocolate, based together with Dancing Cup in Bugolobi, Kampala, are offering children ‘Build-a-Bunny’ and ‘Choc-Chick’ making workshops from early April 2022, and an Easter egg-hunt and other holiday activities over the Easter weekend. Follow @moonbeanchocolate on social media for the latest details.
+256 701 805182 m.me/moonbeanchocolate
An Easter thought from Diary of a Muzungu in support of Uganda’s tourism industry
The pandemic has devastated travel in particular and there’s been a big shake-up in tourism businesses up and down the country. It’s sad when you hear negative feedback about a favourite lodge that was on top of its game two years ago, but the reality is it will take time before things get back to normal. Many businesses are still in recovery mode.
You and I might be traveling again but let’s not push too hard for discounts. Remember the more we spend, the more we’re investing in the future of tourism in Uganda.
Whatever you do this Easter, get out there and #ExploreUganda! Looking for something different? Contact the Muzungu – I have 100s more ideas. HAPPY EASTER 😎
How can tourism develop Uganda? Podcast interview
How can tourism help Uganda achieve a middle-class economy? ON Uganda podcast interview
Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know how much conservation, Uganda travel and digital marketing rock my boat so I was honoured when podcast host Aggie Patricia Turwomwe invited me to chat about these subjects and more. The interview gave me a chance to mention some of my favourite organisations: Conservation Through Public Health, Uganda Wildlife Authority and the brilliant free hospitality and tourism training app from the Ukarimu Academy. Oh yes, and my favourite new glitzy Kampala café, Cafesserie Arena Mall!
“Word-of-mouth has morphed into Digital Marketing” podcast interview with Charlotte Beauvoisin
ON Uganda Podcast – UG’s investment podcast – is dedicated 100% to demystify paradigms through its three segments; On Reports, On Sectors, and On Marketing with an aim to become a tool to help Ugandans achieve and thrive in a booming “MIDDLE-CLASS ECONOMY.” Listen along to understand what fuels the wheels of our economy!
Charlotte ‘Nagawa’ Beauvoisin is a writer and trainer that delivers agile and scalable experiences with digital across East Africa. Nagawa writes the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu and has contributed to the Bradt Uganda Guidebook, Lonely Planet, Fodor’s Travel, The Daily Telegraph and Horizon Guides.
In this 36 minute podcast interview, recorded in December 2021 in Kampala, Charlotte takes us through:
- The Uganda tourism landscape
- Her start in marketing
- Building capacity for Uganda Wildlife Authority game rangers
- Tourism marketing tools
- Conservation and environmental issues
- Policies that favour/ hinder the tourism sector in Uganda
- GOLD: How the tourism sector can help Uganda achieve a middle class economy.
PODCAST DISCLAIMER from ON Uganda. The views and opinions expressed in the episode are those of the guests. They do not represent or reflect the official position of the ON Uganda Podcast, so we do not take responsibility for any ideas expressed by guest during the Podcast. You are smart enough, take out what works for you.
Listen to this episode on Google Podcasts / Anchor / Apple
Do you enjoy listening to podcasts?
Do you like the English accent? 😆 I’d love to know which podcasts you follow – seriously.
21st century tech to rescue Uganda’s mountain gorillas
Join a mountain gorilla family and contribute to the conservation of this endangered species: launch of My Gorilla Family app and My Gorilla Family Festival, Kampala, Uganda, February 2022.
A pioneering initiative to protect Uganda’s mountain gorilla population has officially been launched, leveraging technology to create sustainable sources of non-trekking revenues to fund conservation.
“Uganda is absolutely ready for an application and a festival like this. It is time for the world to come and see how much more Uganda has to offer.”
Lily Ajarova, Chief Executive Officer, Uganda Tourism Board
“UWA is mandated to ensure sustainable management of wildlife resources. We are proud to work with our partners to ensure this, but also to educate local communities and people from all over the world about the value of protecting these majestic animals, and keep them for future generations.”
Sam Mwandha, Executive Director, Uganda Wildlife Authority
“As a child, I went hunting in the forest; when the conservation areas were carved out, I grew into a poacher. I am now known as an advocate for conservation and continue to champion community awareness.”
Fidelis Kanyamunyu, reformed poacher, Honorary Wildlife Officer with Uganda Wildlife Authority and Co-Founder of Home of the Gorillas
Home of the Gorillas Initiative, in partnership with Uganda Wildlife Authority, seeks to commercialise activities that generate alternative ways of funding conservation. This is done by leveraging technology that enables the global community to engage with the gorillas remotely.
“It is important to note the investment opportunities presented by conservation.”
Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, a leading scientist and conservationist at the forefront of gorilla conservation efforts in East Africa, emphasised the importance of community inclusion
“In addition to the subscription-based application My Gorilla Family, the Home of the Gorillas initiative will launch the first conservation limited NFT collection linked to the ±200 habituated individual mountain gorillas in the wild.”
David Gonahasa, Co-Founder of Home of the Gorillas, further explained the importance of this initiative.
“We all need to be conservationists, regardless of our background or physical location. By leveraging technology, we are making more people aware of this natural capital we are blessed with, resulting in more mountain gorilla ambassadors globally.”
Terence Chambati, Co-Founder and Chief Operating Officer, Home of the Gorillas
Download My Gorilla Family on the Google PlayStore. iOS and web application versions will be available end of February 2022.
Follow @mygorillafamily on Twitter and check out the website www.gorilla.family
Have you downloaded Uganda’s My Gorilla Family app yet? I’d love to know what you think of it!
The world’s BIGGEST rolex wins Guinness World Record!
“I made the world’s biggest rolex” – Raymond Kahuma is putting Uganda on the world map (in his words).
News does not get any more exciting than this!
Drumroll…
The biggest – world record-breaking – congratulations to Raymond Kahuma who has landed a Guinness World Record for Uganda by making the world’s biggest rolex! According to his certificate, the mammoth snack weighed in at a phenomenal 204.6 kg (or 451 pounds!)
Just how many eggs do you think were needed to make it?!
While others may strive to win medals at the Olympics or reward themselves with endless university degrees, Raymond has done something far more worthy: he has (in his words) “helped put Uganda on the world map” and boy is he entertaining us too!
Explore Uganda through your tastebuds!
For the uninitiated, a rolex is an omelette rolled in a chapati. (Rolled eggs, get it?) It’s a staple of students and party animals countrywide. (You can’t beat eating a fresh rolex at three in the morning on the way home from a nightclub, which we are now able to do again in Uganda after almost two years of bar closures!)
According to the rules set by Guinness World Records, the rolex would need to weigh at least 200 kg. With a single rolex weighing 100g, that equated to 200 rolex! However, that would be too easy: the final item had to be a scaled-up version of the actual food. (Until this record from Uganda, the world’s biggest rolex measured three metres in diameter and weighed 149 kg).
Kahuma’s first attempt at making a record-breaking rolex cost him $3000 and took a team of 15 people four weeks – to ultimately fail. On that first attempt, the chapati got burned before they had a chance to make the full rolex. Kahuma explains how he had given up on college and how making this humongous Rolex “had become my life’s work. Giving up was not an option.”
Watch Raymond Kahuma’s record-breaking feat “I made the world’s biggest rolex” made in Kampala.
The video is HILARIOUS (just forgive the occasional swearword…) Honestly, the world’s biggest rolex video is the best thing I have watched in a long time. I felt a little emotional by the end of it!
“Uganda’s Guinness World Record for the world’s biggest rolex is a testament to perseverance and dedication.”
Raymond Kahuma
Ingredients for a world record-breaking 200kg+ Ugandan rolex!
- 72 kg flour
- 90 kg vegetables
- 1200 eggs
- 40 kg water
- 40 kg cooking oil
- 14 hours and 36 seconds
- Four attempts
- 60 participants
Originally the go-to food for students, posh versions of Rolex now include chicken, bacon, cheese and a variety of ingredients. At Bujagali in Jinja, you can even order a sweet rolex filled with chocolate and fruit! Back on the streets – arguably still the best place to order your chapati – a rolex stall is one of the quickest and easiest way to set up a new business. You have to hand it to Ugandans for their entrepreneurial spirit!
The humble rolex is a staple on Diary of a Muzungu’s menu. 😋 It even has its own blog “The rolex: celebrating Uganda’s uniqueness!”
Do you love eating rolex? Restaurant variety or roadside stall which is your favourite?
What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide [UPDATED]
The East Africa Tourist Visa covers Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya (only). Your questions answered…
The idea of a single regional East Africa Tourist Visa is to make it easier – and more financially attractive – for tourists to visit the whole region.
You should be able to visit the three countries of Uganda + Rwanda + Kenya on a single visa – or so the theory goes. If you enjoy cross-border travel tips and stories, you might enjoy No hurry in Africa – the bus from Kigali to Kampala and The real ‘boda boda’ – Nagawa travels sidesaddle into Kenya.
In this blog post you will find details about the different East Africa Tourist Visa application processes for Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. Although the three countries share a tourist visa, the application differs, according to the country where you start your East African travels.
Without an East Africa Tourist Visa, you may spend a minimum of $130 to visit the three countries: Kenya ($50) + Rwanda ($30) + Uganda ($50). These fees are ‘single entry’ only, meaning that a return visit to any of these countries means paying the visa fee again. The East Africa Tourism Visa is commonly available, although a few challenges remain.
“The holder of the East Africa Tourist Visa shall enter from the country that issued the visa and move within the two other countries without applying for another visa or paying for another visa fee.”
Doesn’t that sound good?
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa? Kenya, Rwanda, Uganda
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
- Do you have any questions about the East Africa Tourist Visa?
I start by sharing the official information. Scroll further down the page for some practical travel tips. If you have any more visa or travel information to share, please add comments below this article or message me directly I will then update this page.
- Which countries does the East Africa Tourist Visa cover?
Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda – with more countries joining in the future.
- How much is the East Africa Tourist Visa?
100 USD for internationals.
The EATV is free of charge to foreign residents / expats (with valid work permits) in the three countries: Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda. For these kinds of travellers the EATV is issued in the form of an “interstate pass.”
Foreign residents and citizens of the three countries need to travel with a valid passport or National ID or Student ID and request an Interstate Pass at the border. (NOTE to East Africans: if you don’t have a passport, you may be asked to buy a Temporary Travel Document. In Uganda, this costs 10k UGX and can be bought at the border or at Uganda Immigration in Port Bell, Kampala).
- How long is the East Africa Tourist Visa valid for?
90 days
- Is there a limit to the number of times you can visit each country?
No. The East Africa Tourist Visa is a multiple entry visa.
According to Carmen Nibigira, Regional Coordinator, East Africa Tourism Platform, the East Africa Tourist Visa entitles the traveller to 90 days uninterrupted travel in and out of the three participating countries. NOTE: the East Africa Tourist Visa is only multiple entry only within the EATV zone. Once you leave the zone (e.g. go to Tanzania, which is not part of the EATV, even though it is an EAC country), you will need to apply for a new East Africa Tourist Visa.
- Can I extend my East Africa Tourist Visa?
No. You cannot extend the East Africa Tourist Visa. To get a new EATV, you need to exit the EATV zone and apply for a new one, as detailed below. (June 2018: feedback from several tourists is that you are now able to purchase an East Africa Tourist Visa when already in the zone e.g. on the road border between Uganda and Rwanda. This has not been publicised but seems fairly common practice).
- Can I work on an East Africa Tourist Visa?
Official line: “Work is prohibited.”
- How to apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa
It’s important to note that the process for purchasing the East Africa Tourist Visa differs according to the country you travel to first. October 2022: it is easy to get an East Africa Tourist Visa in all three countries. However: for Uganda and Kenya, you must apply online in advance for all visasa; for Rwanda, apply online in advnace or get visa on arrival.
The system has been computerised (hooray! no more forms to fill in). When you arrive at the airport / border, you will be asked how long you want to stay. You hand over your passport, they print a form with your details and you pay $100. You should get an East Africa Tourist Visa sticker in your passport. This is signed and stamped.
“For any questions, contact the diplomatic missions of the Republic of Kenya, Republic of Rwanda and Republic of Uganda before you travel.”
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Kenya first?
If Kenya is your first point of entry, contact your local Kenyan embassy for details on how to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa before you start your trip. Alternatively, buy your East Africa Tourist Visa upon arrival at Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA) or Mombasa.
eCitizen is Kenya’s Department of Immigration Services online portal for visa applications. Currently this is for single entry visas and transit visas only (NOT the EATV). (Checked again October 2022).
For further clarification before you travel to Kenya, contact eVISA Customer Care.
General queries: +254 202 222 022, +254 110 922 063, +254 110 922 064.
Payment queries: +254 110 922 062. Email: evisa@immigration.go.ke
The Muzungu’s recommendation: apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa at your nearest Kenyan Embassy, before you travel. (Note: this is an external site so I can’t confirm all the info is up to date).
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Rwanda first?
Since January 2018, Rwanda issues visas on arrival to all nationals. This includes East Africa Tourist Visas. However, you can also apply online in advance if you prefer.
If Rwanda is your first point of entry to the EATV zone, use the Rwanda Online Visa Application System to apply for the Class T12 East Africa Tourist Visa. Under “Type of Visa” select “East Africa Tourist Visa.” Here you will find an online application form and all the guidance necessary to apply for an East Africa Tourist Visa.
The Muzungu’s recommendation: if you have any flexibility in your itinerary, enter the East Africa Tourist Visa zone via Rwanda. They have the simplest application process with the best guidelines.
- How do I apply for the East Africa Tourist Visa if I’m entering Uganda first?
If Uganda is your first point of entry, you can request your East Africa Tourist Visa at your local Ugandan embassy. (Note: this is an external site so I can’t confirm all the info is uptodate).
October 2022 In theory, you can purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa in cash (US dollars/GBP/Euros) on arrival at Entebbe International Airport, but you may not be allowed to board the plane without your visa approval letter). Therefore, use the Uganda Electronic Visa/Permit Application System to purchase your East Africa Tourist Visa. Please read my blog NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online, which I review frequently. (This includes info on Ugandan single entry tourist visas, East Africa Tourist Visas, business visas, transit visas, work permits, dependent’s pass and more).
The Muzungu’s recommendation: At Entebbe International Airport, immigration may insist you provide a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, don’t argue with immigration (like I have before, to my cost); they aways have the last word. You are advised to bring an itinerary with you, if you have one, or they may deny you an EATV (and simply issue you with a single entry Uganda tourist visa).
- What is an Interstate Pass and how do I apply for it?
Citizens of Kenya, Rwanda and Uganda can now travel between the three countries with ID cards instead of passports. No visas are needed and there is no charge for the Interstate Pass (a small slip of paper that is issued at the border / airport).
Expatriates with valid work permits can also travel with the ‘Interstate Pass,’ without needing to get a visa. Woop, woop! Make sure you keep the Interstate Pass safe with your passport as you may be asked to return it when you leave the country.
In both cases, nationals and expats are simply given an Interstate Pass document when they show their ID/passport and exit one of the three countries. This is free of charge and issued at the border.
March 2018: I travelled by road to Kenya with a Ugandan friend. She was travelling on her Ugandan ID card. Immigration insisted she purchase a Temporary Travel Document at Busia (cost 10k UGX) even though the East Africa Tourist Visa / Interstate Pass allows nationals to travel on their ID. At Busia, Interpol wanted to interview my friend. They were suspicious of a young Ugandan travelling on her ID card and explained that people traffickers are known to hold the young people’s passports for them at the other end of their journey. On our return bus journey, one vulnerable-looking young woman was intercepted by Interpol. It was clear she was being trafficked. The experience was sobering.
- Which other countries will join the East Africa Tourist Visa?
Tanzania
It was announced in 2014 that Tanzania would join the East Africa Tourist Visa but there is no information available online. [Checked again October 2022].
Burundi
Sadly, few people are travelling to Burundi currently because of the political situation. We hope life in Burundi improves quickly and that we can welcome them to the EATV party before too long.
South Sudan
One day, we hope…
DR Congo
In 2022, the Democratic Republic of Congo became the seventh member of the EAC but there is no news about it joining the East Africa Tourist Visa.
- The East Africa Tourist Visa. What is the situation on the ground?
(What the tour operators may not tell you)
Officially, you could only get the EATV when you first entered the EATV zone, either in advance online or at an embassy / diplomatic mission / on arrival at the airport (Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda).
These are the four (official) points of entry for the East Africa Tourist Visa but cross-country borders seem to issue the EATV now as well:
- Uganda – Entebbe International Airport
- Rwanda – Kigali International Airport
- Kenya – Nairobi, Jomo Kenyatta International Airport (JKIA)
- Kenya – Mombasa, Moi International Airport and the Port of Mombasa.
The fact that you could only get an East Africa Tourist Visa when you first entered the EATV countries was a bit of a drawback for some people who may arrive in one country, without having made firm travel plans. It’s quite common for travellers to arrive without an itinerary. Someone may come to Uganda to track the gorillas, for example, and decide they want to travel to the Kenyan coast next.
Visas issued for specific countries can only be used for that particular country.
Notes from friends and family regarding the East Africa Tourist Visa
In its initial form, the EATV was not as flexible as it could be, particularly for backpackers and budget travelers who make up their travel plans as they go. I know people who arrived in Uganda on a single country tourist visa but who then decided to travel within East Africa. My friends’ experience was that when you are travelling by road, the situation was even less clear:
- Cyanika border (Rwanda / Uganda). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Rwanda by road here? You can certainly get one at Gatuna now (April 2018).
- Busia border (Uganda / Kenya). Can you get an EATV when you cross into Kenya by road? Yes, now you can.
Remember: At Entebbe International Airport, immigration may ask you to provide a copy of ‘an itinerary proving onward travel in East Africa.’ Strictly speaking, this is not a requirement of the East Africa Tourist Visa. However, you are advised to bring one with you, if you have one. Hotel bookings serve the same purpose.
Do you have any questions on the East Africa Tourist Visa? I update this page frequently.
Do you have any advice to share? If so, please add your comments below or feel free to contact the Muzungu. If you’re looking for more East Africa visa advice, read NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online and Rwanda announces: all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival.
Pandemic people – my best of 2021
From #LockdownDiaries to gratitude! Diary of a Muzungu’s review of 2021
Wasn’t 2021 extraordinary? Isolation has given us all an opportunity to rethink many things – whether we wanted to or not 🤦♀️ – and I certainly ended the year in a more positive frame of mind. This would not have been possible without the support and inspiration of so many friends and colleagues. Pandemic People is dedicated to them.
The biggest shout-out goes to my family who I had not seen for nearly 3 years. When I finally made it back to the UK for my dad’s 80th birthday, I took every occasion to reconnect with family and childhood friends, reminisce, dip into the family photo archives and allow myself to be full-throttle nostalgic! Travel to Red List UK via Spain was a logistical nightmare but a useful exercise to share with would-be travellers.
I do not confine my gratitude to 2021. Many of the people I list below have been with me – virtually at least – since the start of the pandemic. I share my thanks to them individually here, in no particular order:
In 2021, Ugandan athlete Joshua Cheptegai won gold and silver medals at the Olympics in Tokyo. Ugandan social media was buzzing for days after his win and British sports commentator Rob Walker’s words went viral:
“And what unadulterated joy this win will have triggered back home in Uganda – one of the friendliest, most beautiful countries you could ever hope to visit!”
Rob Walker, sports commentator
As regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know, home is a wooden house at Sunbird Hill, on the edge of Kibale Forest, my green sanctuary during the pandemic. I have endless stories about my incredible life here with Julia and Dillon. Grateful everyday is dedicated to them (and the wild creatures that share my house with me!)
When Internet failed me (and my mojo was at an all-time low) aviation expert and fellow travel blogger Prof Wolfgang Thome invited me to publish a series of #LockdownDiaries for his site ATC News (ATC stands for Aviation, Travel and Conservation). Although my morning forest walks frequently felt like the 1993 film Groundhog Day, lockdown gave me the chance to connect with nature on a deeper level.
Damn has this digital nomad missed traveling! 🤦♀️ Solomon Oleny and I both write for Ng’aali, Uganda Airlines magazine.
When I want to know what’s going on in Kampala, my friend and social barometer Arthur Mwenky Katabalwa is just a tweet or phone call away! (Newspapers can only be bought in Fort Portal, an hour’s drive from home).
Bradt Guides author Philip Briggs lives in Wilderness, South Africa, where they endured some of the toughest lockdown measures. His daily run around the cabbage patch in his garden inspired me to start running again. (Ironically, he was the first person I know to have had COVID-19).
Responsible tourism colleague Daniel Quintana was the first person I spoke to when we finally got broadband Internet (several painful months into lockdown). How different our lives were during the pandemic: he isolating in modern Miami, us in the forest!
With so much on hold, I’ve missed working with my web developer Sam Risbond. I know we’ll be back on track in 2022 😎
As the pandemic hit, Steve Dumba voiced his concern at how I would survive with tourism dead in the water. Dumba has helped me update Diary of a Muzungu and runs E-zone School of Computing in Kampala.
Another support team member I must thank is the ever-patient George Mukalazi of Laz Systems tel +256 702 926323. George is my go-to IT person
I was honoured when Miha Logar invited me to be one of the Gorilla Highlands Experts, a global team of volunteers who are passionate about developing and promoting responsible tourism in the Gorilla Highlands of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo.
The Gorilla Highlands Experts’ virtual picnics and group Zoom sessions reconnected me with coffee growers in Kisoro, expert chef Rama Ramadhan Sindayigaya in Rwanda, award-winning photographer Marcus Westberg in Sweden, Jon “The Voice” Lee in California and countless others all over the globe. I can’t tell you how much that connection has meant to me during lockdown. Gorilla Highlands’ latest endeavour is the SEE AFRICA BREATHE AFRICA podcast.
I was tickled pink when Andrew Roberts asked me to help with a spot of proofreading for his fantastic Uganda Safari book. Andy and I worked together at the Uganda Conservation Foundation. You may know Andy as the co-author of the Bradt Uganda guide.
I was over the moon when the journalist Susan Muumbi invited me to write an article for The East African. In 2018, we tracked Rwanda’s gorillas and attended Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony together. We swapped life stories as our safari vehicle wound its way up and down Rwanda’s thousand hills. Here’s Susan’s story about our big cat safari in Akagera National Park.
Daily connection with nature has kept me sane (well, almost!) A high point of 2021 was getting back into running. Kudos to Canada’s top fitness trainer 2020 Philip Ndugga for the virtual coaching.
What’s worse than being stuck in lockdown? Being in lockdown when you are a freelancer! Journalist friend Amy Fallon and I compared notes on our double dose of isolation. Best way for us both to get through it? Start running again!
The sea – specifically the Indian Ocean – was the number one thing I hankered after during lockdown and my first international trip was to the 5 star Mombasa Serena Resort, Kenya. The thought that I would see the ocean again made the first few months of 2021 bearable!
While tourism was closed in 2020, I watched how friends in the Kenyan coastal resort of Watamu came together to feed a community that was financially decimated by lockdown. They were some of the first people I had to see after lockdown. Kudos to Jane Spilsbury, Steve Trott, Mike Mwangombe of Watamu Marine Association, Mel and the team at Hemingways Watamu, Lynne Elson and Tushar (and many others) for keeping the community going. In December 2021, KTN News Kenya broadcast a report about the Watamu Marine Association’s work to protect the Indian Ocean’s wildlife and beaches. This circular economy project: creates jobs to collect plastic waste, upcycles old plastic to make cool products, cleans the ocean to protect wildlife and keeps beaches clean to welcome tourists!
One of the upsides of travelling on your own is having quality time to connect with new people. In Kilifi (north of Mombasa), rafiki Thomas Mbashu of Tripesa and I discussed Kilifi’s tourism attractions over fish, prawns and oysters at Nautilus Restaurant – a delectable treat after all those months in the village eating posho and beans!
A week at Distant Relatives renewed my desire to be a digital nomad… If you are looking for a cool place to hang out, party and enjoy superb live music and DJs, at extremely affordable prices, look no further than Distant Relatives Backpackers in Kilifi, midway between Mombasa and Watamu. Far more than just a backpacker hostel, DR is one of the most innovative, well-run places to stay on Kenya’s coast. Distant Relatives Backpackers Instagram page is 🔥!
While most of us tourism folk languished in the doldrums, Albert Ntambiko showed us how to turn a business around during the pandemic. What do you do if your café isn’t allowed sit-in customers? You reinvent yourself as a takeaway business! Coffee at Last is in Makindye, Kampala.
I have missed the lovely Moreen Mungu during the pandemic. Our trip with the Kasese Tourism Investment Forum was a highlight of my year. In Kasese, I was honoured to speak alongside David Gonahasa, the brains behind Tripesa and Home of the Gorillas Initiative that “seeks to increase global awareness of Mountain Gorillas by leveraging technology to generate non-trekking revenues towards gorilla conservation.”
I could listen to Ian Redmond for hours: he is a master at explaining complex ideas in non-techy language (for us non-scientists!) For example, did you know that the ‘ecosystem services’ offered by a single forest elephant are valued at 1.7 million USD? This recognises elephants’ value in carbon sequestration (preventing the release of carbon and thus reducing climate change). This staggering amount of money is in addition to elephants’ value to the tourism economy. Ian is co-founder of Rebalance Earth a social impact company that proposes using block chain technology to offset carbon emissions: win:wins for elephants, forests, local inhabitants near National Parks, the climate, EVERYONE!
In 2021, Ian was part of the team that launched Ecoflix “the first not-for-profit global streaming platform dedicated to saving animals and the planet.” Do check it out!
Every interaction with Dr Celestine Katongole is a learning experience. Celestine masterminded Uganda Tourism Board’s tourism recovery plan and the award-winning Entanda Tours (traditional hunting experience) near Mityana. His latest project is Work & Rise a company that “connects people who have jobs to those looking for the jobs.”
Sleeping in a tent up a mountain is not for the faint-hearted, especially when it’s your first time. I was intrigued to know why Jean Byamugisha CEO of the Uganda Hotel Owners Association, chose to swap her self-confessed ‘boujee’ lifestyle for walking boots and a tent. In Out of my element Jean shared her personal account of climbing Mount Elgon. I really felt her pain! (And her determination).
Beewol’s “A wet and wild escapade” is the funniest read this side of the River Nile
The CBI project to train tour operators in digital marketing involved Peter Fabricius and I writing a syllabus and developing training materials. Revisiting old content in the context of the pandemic brought some illuminating discussions and a new hybrid approach: in-person group discussions, live remote presentations from Peter’s home office in Cape Town and virtual breakout rooms on Zoom. Working with Peter is like having my own personal coach – I can’t think of a better way to get back to full-time work!
Finally – after so many years daydreaming – I made it to Karamoja, where Theo told me all about their plans for the Warrior Nomad Trail and the Tour of Karamoja Uganda’s ultimate wilderness bicycle tradition, taking place in April 2022. “Expect a physical and mental challenge, rich cultural encounters, dramatic scenery and Uganda’s finest wildlife.” The Warrior Nomad Trail takes you 6 completely unique days / 6 stages through Uganda’s final frontier on the extreme edges of the East African Rift. The final days are celebrated in the award-winning Kidepo Valley National Park.
I’ve loved being a small part of implementing the EyeOpenerWorks’ vision for tourism and hospitality. I look forward to working with Martijn, Lex, Laiqah and the team again soon.
It was a pleasure to spend two days with Sheila Kogo-Malinga at Kisubi Forest Cottages off Entebbe Road. Her company Lodge Solutions is a one-stop shop for everything you’ll need if you’re setting up a tourism business in Uganda.
In 2022 I’ll be travelling to Tanzania. Kudos to CEO Sirili Akko for the great work Tanzania Association of Tour Operators TATO are doing promoting Tanzania during the pandemic. Their approach has been radically different to Uganda’s but as long as visitors are travelling to Africa again, I’m happy!
In London, I attended World Travel Market. Africa had little representation but West Africa Tourism Association did the continent proud. Here Daniel of I Like Local introduced me to WATO’s delightful CEO Ola Wright.
Horizon Guides has grown to be a reputable travel brand. I’m thrilled that Matt Barker asked me to update the Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda and Uganda, a project we first worked on together in 2016.
Liz Warner is one of the UK founders of Different Kind, and former CEO of Comic Relief, a new online marketplace for “goods that do good.” I got a buzz from recommending a few ideas from Uganda and hope to recommend more as DK evolves.
In this short clip, Vanessa Nakate talks about the changing weather patterns in Uganda. “Historically Africa is responsible for just 3% of global emissions yet is suffering some of its worst impacts.”
Closer to home, I am a fan of the work of AFRIYEA and their practical clean-up Fort Portal / River Mpanga campaigns. Let’s support young environmentalists in 2022!
Trends indicate that post-pandemic, more of us will choose to travel sustainably. Silver linings! Kudos to Judy Kepher-Gona and the team at Sustainable Tourism and Travel Agenda in Kenya who are at the forefront of training young people and tourism businesses on how to operate sustainably. I hope to attend their annual summit in 2022. #STAS22
We were delighted when our former colleague Lilly Ajarova became CEO of UTB, but can you imagine being head of the Uganda Tourism Board during the pandemic? 🤦♀️Not to be deterred, in 2020, Lilly led a team of climbers to the top of Mount Margherita, the highest point in Uganda. Where she leads, others follow. Domestic tourism has come of age during the pandemic!
“Approaching Entebbe Airport, bright orange sunshine filled the plane. I felt like the sun was rising over Africa and my new life. I was a little nervous and very excited.
VSO was a passport to an incredible life. I didn’t know anything about Uganda beyond Idi Amin, Lake Victoria and mountain gorillas, but I had a feeling I might stay longer than my two-year placement …”
Charlotte Beauvoisin, woman & home magazine
Voluntary Service Overseas was my ticket to a new life in Uganda (and the first three years of Diary of a Muzungu recount those life-changing experiences). In 2021, I was delighted to help promote VSO’s work in an interview with Woman and Home, the U.K.’s bestselling women’s magazine.
And what does 2022 hold for Diary of a Muzungu?
I don’t know how I would have survived the last two years without everyone featured here. In small ways and big, they’ve helped and inspired me. I’m still processing so much of the last two years. I felt hopelessly lost at certain points but now I’m just letting things settle. Conservation, digital marketing training, travel travel travel and AFRICA will continue to be central to Diary of a Muzungu but quite how that all pans out, I’m still figuring out!
Mwebale nyo – thank you – to everyone who has attended my training workshops and to the tourism businesses that advertise in the Travel Directory. We look forward to brighter times 🙏😎
My last thank you is to everyone who reads Diary of Muzungu! Wishing us all the very best for a successful and happy new year! Keep in touch – sign up to my monthly newsletter.
Uganda for beginners – introduction for new expats [UPDATED]
If you’re planning to move to the Pearl of Africa, you’re bound to fall in love with Ugandans’ infectious enthusiasm for life. In an InterNations survey of expats living in 191 countries, Uganda received the highest marks for friendliness.
Ugandans welcome people of all nationalities; it is an intrinsic part of their culture. The ability to speak English widely offers visitors a huge advantage but it’s the wonderful welcomes and smiles that make this place accessible. One of my first bits of advice from a fellow Brit was: “You’ll get used to Ugandans staring at you. Don’t be intimidated. Just smile and they will return the most dazzling smile.”
It’s true.
Ugandans love talking about Premier league football, politics and how much they drank the night before. Ugandans love to party. Conversely, Ugandans are also avid church (or mosque) goers and very ‘God-fearing.’
Read my most popular blog 50 reasons why I love Uganda.
Introducing Kampala, the capital of Uganda
Set on the edge of Lake Victoria, the world’s second largest freshwater lake, Kampala is named after the Impala, who were once abundant on the city’s historic Seven Hills. These days the city covers more than twenty hills and, to see an Impala, you now have to travel to Lake Mburo National Park, three hours to the west.
Kampala nightlife is legendary across the region and the city is a great place to work, network and socialise. The expat community is welcoming and diverse. There is a great range of clubs, activities and restaurants.
Kampala is a great base for weekends away on safari, white water rafting or just chilling at a lodge with a wonderful view. Heavy traffic, sometimes potholed roads and bad drivers are some of the downsides to life in Kampala. When it’s hot, tempers fray!
“Muzungu how are you?” Life as an expat in Uganda
Expats can’t escape being called “Muzungu,” meaning lost or confused (from the Swahili). Apparently this is how the first white people looked when we first arrived in East Africa. Read the full definition here What is a Muzungu?
“Bazungu” (plural) and white people generally are made to feel welcome, thanks to the good work of the European doctors, teachers and missionaries of the nineteenth century. In Uganda, knowing a white person is perceived to be a good thing, as we arrive with the possible offers of jobs, sponsorship and connections. Expats do get regular requests for work, school fees, the ubiquitous ‘sponsorship’ and occasionally cash. Ugandans are very polite so will ask nicely. It’s okay to say no.
My blog Are muzungus all rich? is one of my most popular reads.
Expat conversations often revolve around complaints about the potholed roads, the naughty traffic policemen, and being overcharged for things on the street. It’s unavoidable: as a Muzungu, you are perceived to have money, even when you feel you are penniless.
What language do you speak in Uganda?
Uganda is home to 56 ethnic groups and their languages. Luganda is the language of the Ganda people of Buganda, mostly resident in Greater Kampala. This is the language you will hear spoken most often in Kampala. The lingua franca of Uganda is English. (Phew – I’m in luck!)
More important than the language you speak is the manner in which you greet people. Greetings are hugely important in building relationships, as is the time to acknowledge people, particularly those of status. Take the time to say “How are you?” even if you are in a hurry.
It is quite common to start a meeting with a prayer (so have a couple of lines ready!) Equally, it is common for expat visitors to be asked to make an impromptu speech at a meeting. You may be invited to a number of weddings as the guest of honour!
What’s the weather like in Uganda?
Uganda’s position on the Equator means we benefit from an unbelievably beautiful climate; most days are sunny with blue skies. Even when it does rain, the sun quickly dries up the puddles.
Southern Uganda, and borders of Lake Victoria, are generally wetter, with rains generally spread throughout the year. Here most rain falls from March to June and during the shorter rainy seasons of November and December. The effects of climate change mean seasons have become blurred but you can normally look out of the window and decide whether you need to take an umbrella to work that day. Sunshine is never very far away. Think UK – but the opposite!
The country comes to a halt when it rains, and everybody hides inside. After the rain stops, expect mega-traffic jams. Kampala is a busy and often chaotic city especially if you’re rushing to a meeting and get stuck in traffic for an hour. Have a good car radio, always have airtime on your phone and have a newspaper to hand so you don’t feel you’re wasting those precious minutes. Even better, get someone else to drive or work from home. It’s a good idea to live near where you work or agree to work from home sometimes.
Driving in Kampala – not for the nervous is a tongue-in-cheek blog by a fellow expat.
Uber launched in Kampala to the ire of the overpriced taxi drivers and the boda boda (motorbike) drivers. I had always found “private hire” taxis in Kampala too expensive but Uber, Bolt, newcomer Lolo and SafeCar charge a third of what traditional taxi drivers charge. Uber Uganda also has bodas on their app but SafeBoda is by far the best option in 2022. Since the pandemic, many of the drivers on the ride hailing apps are overcharging. In my experience, SafeBoda is the most transparent (and cheapest) way to travel across town. However, a car ride is always going to be the safest transport option.
Read How to ride a boda boda before you jump on that motorbike!
Healthcare in Uganda. Beware the Travellers’ Health Book! Tropical disease diary
The provision of healthcare can be hit and miss. Local clinics and pharmacies can offer you the best advice on tropical medicine, but beware out of date drugs.
Regular health check-ups are advised, particularly for bilharzia (which you may catch in Lake Victoria or the River Nile). Beware of malaria (we don’t all have the same symptoms). Expats usually buy private health insurance which is not particularly expensive.
Read my Uganda travel advice I ignored including How to avoid Malaria and How to avoid Bilharzia.
What’s on in Kampala?
Kampala is developing quickly and there’s always plenty (too much!) to do. Many expats rely on word of mouth recommendations from friends and colleagues. Online information is slowly improving, particularly through Facebook and WhatsApp groups. I promote festivals and other events on my Diary of a Muzungu Facebook page. X (Twitter) is a good place to find out what’s on too. Follow me @CharlieBeau.
There are many ways to meet fellow expats in Kampala. You will quickly find familiar faces. Generally, expats and Ugandans mix easily, but sometimes you just need to talk someone from back home who ‘gets you’ without having to navigate the cultural differences. Kampala has the friendliness of the village, but village life can be a bit oppressive sometimes. Wherever you go, you will bump into people you know – even upcountry!
The overwhelming majority of visitors to Uganda love the place. Many of us extend our contracts; some of us decide to settle here. Mixed race relationships are common and I share some of my experiences here in How to date a Ugandan.
Enjoy the best nightlife in East Africa!
Kampala is a party city. Every bar plays loud music and it’s quite common to dance all night at your local bar. There are no particular bar opening hours; many are open all day and all night – you can always find a drink in Kampala.
Very few Ugandans smoke, and culturally, it is frowned upon. That said, few people would complain if you light up. Although it is illegal to smoke in many places, it is rarely enforced. Virtually all clubs and restaurants are outside, or at least have an outdoor section, so you can usually smoke where you like. Cigarettes are very cheap so expat smokers are very happy here!
Most people will tell you they find Kampala a safe city, however, don’t leave your phone on the table while you’re chatting in a café and be careful of your possessions when you are in busy bars (as in most cities).
Technology in Uganda. Staying in touch with the things and people you care about
Access to the Internet is improving all the time in Uganda so Skyping, WhatsApping and Zooming with friends and family back home is a doddle.
These days, your boda boda driver and your house girl have a mobile phone. They may even have a phone that looks better than yours. (Beware cheap Chinese or Indian phones in Uganda. Many are fake so do shop around carefully).
Free WiFi is common these days but you can’t beat the convenience of your own personal – and fast – connection. MiFis are small pocket-sized devices that let you connect up to ten devices simultaneously.
Not so long ago, banking and payments involved a lot of physical effort. We paid for everything with cash, waited in line at the bank to withdraw money using a chequebook and drove distances to pay bills. On my first trip to a Kampala bank, I watched a customer stuff wads of banknotes into his socks before he left the building! Now, you can pay for almost anything via your phone, by linking your online bank account to one of Uganda’s mobile money systems. It’s so easy! Although European banks have had online banking for a long time, few are linked with mobile phone technology yet. Come to East Africa to see how it works!
I use mobile money to buy internet data and pay bills. Most of us regularly send or receive cash using these systems. (In Kenya, the M-Pesa system is used in almost every shop and bar).
As for computers, Computer Facilities in Kamwokya have saved my bacon more than once! Two laptop hard drives have died on me but it’s very reassuring to know that they can (almost always) recover the data. Computer Facilities develop bespoke network infrastructure solutions for large companies. Their client list is a ‘who’s who’ of the corporate world in UG and across East Africa.
What about old-fashioned snail mail? Does Kampala have a Post Office?
International delivery companies exist but there is also a Post Office on Kampala Road. I learned that a trip to the Post Office is a good indicator of how you’re getting to grips with life in Uganda.
Back in my VSO volunteer days, I was a regular visitor to the Post Office. Read “The cheque’s in the post ….” apparently.
Last but not least, expats share their advice and experiences in Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]
What’s your advice for living in Kampala? If you’re planning a move to Uganda, what other questions do you have?
Interview with UK’s woman & home magazine
The power of volunteering: an interview about life as a conservation volunteer in Uganda
Once upon a lifetime ago, I left my 9-5 job in London to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Volunteering with VSO (Voluntary Service Overseas) was the passport to an incredible life. It’s a story I’ve been blogging about ever since…
I’m thrilled that an interview about my life in Uganda featured in the UK’s woman & home magazine (October 2021) and Woman Magazine (July 2022).
“Approaching Entebbe Airport, bright orange sunshine filled the plane. I felt like the sun was rising over Africa and my new life. I was a little nervous and very excited.
In London, I had a corporate job and a long-term relationship, but the end of the relationship reignited my dream of visiting Africa.
I didn’t know anything about Uganda beyond Idi Amin, Lake Victoria and mountain gorillas, but I had a feeling I might stay longer than my two-year placement …”
Charlotte Beauvoisin, Woman Magazine | woman & home magazine
Read the woman & home interview with Charlotte in Uganda here.
The warmth here in Uganda – like the people – envelops you in a hug and makes you want to stay forever…
Charlotte Beauvoisin, woman & home magazine, October 2021
woman&home is on sale in UK shops or online
Do you enjoy reading Interviews? Read more Interviews with Charlotte Beauvoisin here.
Lash goals
Lash goals. Yes dear reader, that’s a thing!
Yesterday I went shopping on the British high street. (After my year in the forest, shouldn’t that be something to get excited about?)
The task was simple: buy some mascara.
One of the upsides of living in Uganda is there’s not a lot of choice. Yes, to me that’s an upside because the options in the UK are OVERWHELMING. You can dither endlessly. At one point I wanted to walk out of the shop empty-handed and then I reminded myself how lucky I am (I thought of a few Ugandan girlfriends who would be agog at all the products on offer!)
This photo shows one quarter of the intimidating “makeup wall.”
Do I choose between black and brown mascara?
How much should I spend?
Those are the small details.
First consider: microblade effect. natural volume. dual wand. smudge proof. curl addict. masterpiece divine lashes. waterproof. lash boost complex. lash sculpting. big drama volumising. long shot lengthening. wonder extension full stretch technology. And then there’s “false lash Bambi” – one for my Ugandan friends 
Beyond the marketing vernacular, did I want to buy a vegan product? Or something made in the UK? Had the mascara been tested on animals? I could feel my head exploding. I do miss having ethical choices in my shopping decisions but they are a whole other headache too. (To be honest, I don’t want ethical options, I want ALL products to be ethical).
I love culture shock but it takes me time to adjust to the UK’s consumer culture. I don’t much like it.
(I have always had mixed feelings about the (over)abundance of options and the unrelenting pressure to spend, spend, spend).
