Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking [UPDATED]
What is the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking?
The Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking (or Trekking) is designed to help you choose where to go mountain gorilla tracking, where to stay, what to pack, and explain how your tracking supports the Mountain Gorillas and the local (human!) population. I also share some ideas on other activities you can do in Uganda or Rwanda, as part of your gorilla tracking tour. All information contained in this guide is based on my personal experience: tracking the gorillas, working with conservationists, researching guidebooks and 15 years supporting conservation and tourism in Uganda and Rwanda.
I can’t guarantee that every fact here is 100% accurate (but I’ve tried my very best!) Before confirming any travel plans, I’d always recommend contacting me or one of the organisations listed in my Travel Directory. All feedback, suggestions (and corrections?) are gratefully received.
According to the results of the latest census (finalised in 2022), there are just over 1,000 Mountain Gorillas living in the mountains that straddle Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of Congo (the DRC, formerly known as Zaire). A must for every eco-tourist’s travel bucket list, tracking the Mountain Gorillas truly is a unique wildlife experience. Every encounter with the gorillas is different.
No one who looks into a gorilla’s eyes — intelligent, gentle, vulnerable — can remain unchanged, for the gap between ape and human vanishes; we know that the gorilla still lives within us. Do gorillas also recognize this ancient connection?
George B. Schaller, “Gentle Gorillas, Turbulent Times,” National Geographic
There was very little activity when I first tracked the gorillas in Bwindi, Uganda. The highlight of the tracking was watching a baby gorilla hanging from one arm in the moss-covered trees above us, eyeballing us. The climb through a tea plantation and mist-covered slopes of the jungle-like forest were a magical part of the whole experience too.
My next gorilla tracking experience, in Rwanda, was altogether different: there was so much going on, the hour with the gorillas passed by very quickly. We watched twin baby gorillas playing with their mother. Huge adults sat munching in the bamboo above our heads. At one point, the whole gorilla family decided to walk through our nervous giggling group and we edged back in to the bush, as they brushed right past us. We even watched the Silverback having sex! All of this action was to the accompaniment of loud gorilla farts.
Gorilla tracking is not a cheap experience. However, receipts from gorilla permit sales have made a huge and sustainable impact on the ability of these beautiful creatures to survive. This guide focuses on gorilla tracking in Uganda and Rwanda but gorilla tracking in the DR Congo is sometimes available too. This is great news for us travellers – local people and the gorillas too. Tourist dollars contribute to conservation AND development.
Gorillas remain under constant watch, 365 days of the year. Their security and health are constantly monitored. The gorilla population numbers in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from near-extinction levels of 254 individuals in the 1980s to a still ‘endangered’ level of 1000+ in 2023. By going to track the Mountain Gorillas, you are contributing to their survival – as long as you follow the Gorilla Tracking Rules listed in this Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking.
Are you looking for answers to any of these questions?
Section 1. What do mountain gorillas look like? – including …
… Are Mountain Gorillas dangerous?
… When were Mountain Gorillas first scientifically identified by man?
Section 2. Where are mountain gorillas in Uganda? – including …
… How many gorilla families are there in Uganda?
Section 3. Which other activities can you do after tracking the gorillas in Uganda?
Section 4. Where are Mountain Gorillas in Rwanda? – including …
… How many gorilla families are there in Rwanda?
Section 5. Which other activities can you can do after tracking the gorillas in Rwanda? – including …
… Which other activities can you do after trekking gorillas in Rwanda?
Section 6. How much does it cost to track to see the Mountain Gorillas? – including …
… What is a gorilla safari and how much does it cost?
Section 7. How can I buy gorilla tracking permits? – including …
… Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Rwanda
… Tips on purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in Uganda
… Contacts for purchasing a gorilla tracking permit in the DRC
Section 8. Gorilla tracking FAQs Frequently Asked Questions. – including …
… Am I guaranteed to see the gorillas?
… How many days should I book for my gorilla tracking tour?
… Should I hire a porter for when I go gorilla tracking?
… When is the best time of year to track the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 9. Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Uganda?
Section 10. Where is the best place to stay for gorilla tracking in Rwanda?
Section 11. What can I expect on my gorilla tracking tour?
Section 12. What are the gorilla tracking rules?
Section 13. What is the best way to travel to the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 14. What should I pack for tracking gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Section 15. What are the best tips for photographing the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 16. Are Mountain Gorillas an endangered species? – including …
… Which conservation organisations are working to protect the Mountain Gorillas?
Section 17. What are the differences between tracking the gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Section 18. Gorilla tracking in the DRC *new page coming soon*
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
Top things to do in Kampala [UPDATED]
What’s on in Kampala?
Visitors to Uganda are often driven straight upcountry, away from the congested capital. That’s understandable since the country’s main draw are the National Parks. Also, since most visitors live in towns, you can understand they don’t find the idea of a busy city appealing. Kampala is where the crime is – like cities the world over – yet it’s dynamic (and I always feel a sense of excitement as I approach the city). Many now realise we have underestimated Kampala’s attractions and in 2022 Uganda Tourism Board opened a tourism information office in the grounds of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel.
Kampala – affectionately known by some as KLA – is a great place to live. This crazy, noisy, congested city can drive you nuts at times but there’s always something going on. Eh! I hardly know where to start…
What’s for breakfast in Kampala?
Okay, let’s start the day with coffee. Cappuccino is my personal weakness, and can now easily – although not cheaply – be found in most of Kampala’s major shopping centres, big hotels and urban areas. Some of my favourite coffee shops in Kampala include Coffee at Last in Makindye, Cafesserie and Endiro at numerous locations (the cosy Endiro Nakasero cafe is run by deaf staff), Le Petit Village at Quality Hill on Ggaba Road, Café Kawa in Tank Hill, Muyenga and Café Pap in Parliament Avenue and Ntinda. The Southside Market at Dancing Cup in Bugolobi is a popular Saturday hang-out. CJ’s (Cafe Java’s) – at various locations – always have excellent service (and large portions, especially during Ramadan). These also serve African tea.
What’s the perfect accompaniment to morning coffee? Croissants (yes!) or beef sambosas (samosas) and of course the number one Ugandan delicacy, the famous rolex! (“Rolled eggs” omelette in a chapati). Katogo (steamed savoury banana with beans or meat) is a popular Ugandan breakfast. I love it! (Unless it contains ‘gizzards’). Yuck.
Coffee / tea break over, Kampala’s markets are excellent. There’s a market for everything but you have to be ready for haggle. Expat tip: go with a Ugandan friend, unless you want to pay ‘muzungu price’ for every other thing.
Fancy a spot of shopping?
Popular Kampala markets are Nakasero (fruit, vegetables, spices and grasshoppers) and Nakawa (everything – and slightly cheaper than the markets in town). I love Ggaba market on the edge of Lake Victoria. It’s a great place to pick up brightly coloured Tanzanian cloth (as well as all your fruit and vegetables, the cheapest mukenne and other fish, fresh or dried). (The maze-like Owino was once Kampala’s best place for second-hand clothing, shoes and bags; the packed and chaotic downtown is still the best place for all kinds of bargains).
If you’re into arts and crafts and souvenir shopping, head to the extensive ‘Daisy Arcade’ craft market on Buganda Road. There are a small number of craft shops behind the National Theatre too.
Feeling arty?
Kampala has a small but thriving art scene and most exhibitions are free. The best way to find out what’s going on is to follow them on social media. Kampala art galleries include Nommo Gallery, Afriart Gallery on Seventh Street (in the Industrial Area) and Umoja. The Uganda Museum has occasional art shows, in addition to the permanent historic displays. The museum is very dated but still has a certain appeal. It’s definitely worth a visit, particularly if you have a guided tour. Kampala’s Alliance Francaise and Goethe Institute always have a busy timetable of events.
The National Theatre in central Kampala has a programme of dance, drama and art. There are regular shows, films, dance classes and jam sessions. The best way to find out what’s on at the National Theatre is to visit in person or look for their monthly flyer.
The National Theatre was the original venue for the annual Bayimba Festival. Bayimba has since moved to Lunkulu Island on Lake Victoria.
Experience Uganda through music and dance!
The Ndere Troupe’s show is the perfect introduction to Uganda for new visitors, but honestly everyone should watch this brilliant show, more than once! The highly professional Ndere Troupe is a must-see celebration of Uganda and Africa – through traditional music and dance on Wednesday, Friday and Sunday nights. The Ndere Centre is on Kampala’s Northern Bypass. Read my blog about Ndere’s sensational musical and cultural experience.
Did you know, Kampala has the best nightlife in East Africa?
Don’t take my word for it, dive into Kampala’s nightlife! My friends from Nairobi love this party city. Downtown Kabalagala is famous from here to Kigali to Goma to Bujumbura and Dar – and every part of East Africa in between.
Move over Acacia Avenue and Muyenga, Kisementi and Bugolobi are Kampala’s more popular nightspots these days with new bars and restaurants opening all the time. Kampala’s top hotels have New Year parties, fireworks, live music and more. Ugandans love to party anywhere! Every neighbourhood has several bars. If you like your beer cheap, just sit on a wooden bench outside your local shop. Local ‘pork joints’ are usually good value for money too (unless you’re a vegetarian of course!)
Kampala’s Industrial Area has the city’s best known nightclubs: Guvnors and Ange Noir, but you don’t need to go to a nightclub to dance. Have a few drinks and we will dance anywhere in UG!
Denmark’s most popular newspaper, Politiken, asked me to recommend the Top Things To Do in Kampala for their Insider Guide. We agreed that Danish culture and cafe buffs would appreciate the Ndere Cultural Centre, Gaddafi National Mosque in Old Kampala, Kampala Art Biennale, the Bahai Temple and Acacia Mall in Kisementi (for the obligatory cappuccino fix).
As for getting to all these great places safely, the muzungu is a big fan of “ride hailing apps.” In 2022, Lolo was my new favourite; SafeBoda now provide cars as well as bodas. Uber and Bolt may have been first but they lost the plot during the fuel crisis, with driver after driver doubling the fees. Driving in Kampala is a favourite (tongue in cheek) blog.
Prefer to walk?
Are you interested in history and architecture? The Cross-Cultural Foundation of Uganda has launched a book, maps and a *free* mobile phone app all about Entebbe, Jinja and Kampala’s historical buildings. It’s a fun way to tour the three towns. Read History in your hand – exploring Kampala, Jinja & Entebbe with a free mobile app.
This page is work in progress – it merely skims the surface of Kampala!
Looking for more thngs to do in Kampala? Send me a message!
What’s the best way to travel to the mountain gorillas? [UPDATED]
Can I fly to see the Mountain Gorillas? How long is the journey by road from Kampala (in Uganda) or Kigali (in Rwanda) to the gorillas’ habitat?
The main roads to the gorilla tracking regions of Uganda and Rwanda are generally good but travel is much slower than on European or American roads, for example. Secondary roads are often slow and bumpy, especially approaching Uganda’s gorilla parks. Be prepared for long car journeys often taking most of the day. Four-wheel drive vehicles are required for certain routes in the rainy season when heavy rains can cause floods and even damage roads. I’ve travelled to every corner of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, Mgahinga and Volcanoes National Park by every possible means: private car, bus, public transport, boda boda (motorbike taxi) and 12-seater plane. However you travel, enjoy the journey! The scenery is fabulous.
Bwindi Impenetrable Forest – home to the world’s biggest population of mountain gorillas – is 8+ hours’ drive from Kampala or Entebbe. If you’ve never visited this part of the world before, you’ll find the drive is a fantastic opportunity to watch everyday African life as you drive through the small trading centres. En route through the gloriously green Pearl of Africa you will cross the Equator (and the obligatory stop for photos!)
If you have time to spare, you can easily make a detour for a Safari in Lake Mburo National Park or Queen Elizabeth National Park.
If you prefer to fly, a round trip air ticket from Entebbe Airport or Kajansi Airstrip to the Bwindi area costs approximately $400. This one and a half hour flight in a small aircraft is out of this world! You pass over islands on Lake Victoria, swampy marshlands, villages and the mist-covered valleys of south-western Uganda. Seeing the cloud-covered peaks of the volcanoes appear on the horizon is an unforgettable sight. The airstrips of Kisoro or Kihihi are 30 minutes / one hour from most gorilla tracking lodges.
If you’re pushed for time – or you don’t fancy a long road drive – the best option is a flight to Kigali and the short drive to Volcanoes National Park, home of Rwanda’s gorillas. The drive takes just two hours from Rwanda’s capital city Kigali on very good roads. En route you will quickly understand why it is called ‘the Land of 1000 Hills’!
It’s also possible to fly to Kigali and drive across the border to see Uganda’s gorillas. (Both options take considerably less time than driving from Kampala).
For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.
What are the differences between tracking the gorillas in Uganda and Rwanda?
Uganda or Rwanda: how do you decide where to go mountain gorilla tracking?
Mountain gorilla tracking is a professionally organised and well-developed ecotourism experience. It is the number one tourist attraction in both Uganda and Rwanda. Wherever you stay, there is a good range of accommodation options available to you. Gorilla tracking in the DRC is now back on the bucket list, but offers fewer tracking and accommodation options. If you’re interested in mountain gorilla tracking in the Congo, do drop me an email. A new page is planned!
Ranger guides are professionally trained, will look after you well and are full of useful information. They know the gorilla populations intimately. Ranger guides speak good English. In Rwanda, many guides also speak French (in addition to Kinyarwanda of course!)
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Uganda
I simply love the drive to see the gorillas in Uganda, even from Kampala, even though it takes a whole day. Whether you are tracking the gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (Buhoma, Nkuringo, Ruhija or Rushaga) or Mgahinga Gorilla National Park, the last hour or two’s scenery en route is divine.
Gorilla tracking permits are cheaper in Uganda (although they have removed the off-peak season discounts). In my view, Uganda also has lots more to see and do before or after your gorilla tracking adventure. Uganda and Rwanda are right next door to each other however, so you could track the gorillas in Rwanda and then drive to Uganda for the rest of your East African holiday, or vice versa.
Since first writing this guide, Rwanda has doubled the cost of its gorilla tracking permits to $1,500 making the country unaffordable to most people. Interestingly, the popularity of gorilla tracking in the DRC is on the increase and is dirt cheap by comparison. Check out my gorilla permit cost page.
The advantages of tracking the gorillas in Rwanda
Rwanda’s boast is that you can fly in and do the gorilla tracking in one (rather hectic) day and fly back home the same night. I wouldn’t recommend that though.
The short drive from Kigali International Airport to the start of the gorilla tracking in Rwanda is only two hours but the drive is not as scenic (breath-taking!) as Uganda. However, the roads are better, so gorilla tracking in Rwanda includes a more comfortable drive. Although the gorilla tracking permits cost more in Rwanda, you may save money by doing a shorter trip. By comparison, in Uganda you have to stay a minimum of two nights, thus pushing the overall price up.
Which is the best: tracking the gorillas in Uganda or Rwanda?
The Muzungu highly recommends gorilla tracking in both Uganda and Rwanda. Both experiences are fantastic.
I loved hacking through the rainforest in Bwindi and I loved the bamboo forest of Rwanda. I know people who have tracked the mountain gorillas dozens of times. They continue to go back because every experience is so different. Likewise with tourists and travellers, some decide that if they are travelling all the way to East Africa, then why not track both Uganda’s mountain gorillas and Rwanda’s gorillas too?
For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Still got a question? Contact the Muzungu.
How to make international calls from Uganda [UPDATED]
In this blog post I share my personal tips on Ugandan mobile phone and internet providers, where to find free WiFi, SIM card registration and how to send money using mobile phone apps.
Making an international phone call from Uganda can be pretty straightforward. It can also be a right pain in the kabina (bottom).
When I first arrived in Uganda as a volunteer, I very rarely called home. For some reason outbound phone calls from the UK to Uganda were easier. Skype video calls just didn’t work.
Making a Skype call from Uganda circa 2009
A Skype conversation would go something like this:
Caller: Hi
The muzungu: Hi
Caller: How are you?
The muzungu: I’m fine. How are you?
Caller: I’m sorry, what are you saying? You’re breaking up a bit. Can you say that again?
The muzungu: I can hear you. I’m fine, how are you?
Caller: I can’t really hear you, there’s a bit of an echo on the line, I don’t think I can cope with this.
The muzungu: [Sigh…]
I think to myself: “This conversation is starting the same as the last one, and the one before that. Can we move on and have an actual conversation?”
… Call drops off…
The average conversation lasted for four minutes. I would redial and we would have a two-minute chat. The whole conversation proceeded in two-minute chunks, before one or both of us just gave up.
How to make international calls from Uganda using your mobile phone
Calling directly from your mobile phone in Uganda is far cheaper than it used to be. In fact, sometimes it is cheaper to call than to send a SMS. Mobile phone companies offer call bundles; pre-paid international call bundles are very affordable and can be loaded directly from your Ugandan-registered SIM card. Skype too is better, thanks to improved internet speeds; just don’t expect the video to always work. WhatsApp has transformed connectivity and Ugandans have embraced using Zoom, Google Meet and other communication apps. Rainy weather can affect the quality of the internet (the call quality can also be affected by someone cutting through the internet cable under the sea!)
The best-known providers are Airtel and MTN, and many of us have two phones or dual SIM phones. Other providers include Lyca Mobile, Tangerine, Zuku and Roke Telecom. Note that Africell, Smile, Vodafone and Zain no longer exist and the future of government-owned UTL is unclear (January 2023). It’s very rare to have a home landline phone in Uganda. Airtime can be purchased in tiny amounts and just about anywhere.
How do you pay using your phone if you don’t have a Ugandan bank account?
Mobile money ‘M sente’ has revolutionised airtime and bill payments. Kenya Safaricom led the world in developing M-Pesa, the first solution for sending money and airtime and paying bills via your mobile phone. I rely on mobile money apps to pay my bills. They are robust, reliable, secure and widely accepted. Buy a local SIM card and you can load local currency to buy goods and services and send money to friends, family and colleagues. The two most common providers are MTN and Airtel.
My relationship with MTN
I once spent an afternoon hidden in an airtime vendor’s shack in downtown Kampala, sheltering from an immense thunderstorm. As rain battered the roof, I had an illuminating conversation “Grasshoppers – nsenene: do you eat them or smoke them?”
And then of course there’s “MTN Sunday.” What is that all about? Without fail, every Sunday for several years, I lose contact with everyone. Texts disappear or arrive a day and half later, thus “would you like to meet for Sunday lunch?” has to be organised a day or two in advance. If Sunday is maintenance day, why have I never received a SMS telling me so? (I first wrote this post in 2013 – it was still true in 2018 – and at the end of 2023, I still had issues with my MTN line on Sundays!)
So how does the muzungu call abroad now?
Video Skyping works like a dream now with 4G. My sister prefers FaceTime and mum calls via WhatsApp. I can’t believe how easy it is to call internationally from Kampala now!
How can you access internet on your phone in Uganda?
Ugandan SIM cards can be bought very cheaply everywhere, whether at the exit of Entebbe Airport or at vendor kiosks everywhere. Show your passport to register the SIM card. You can also buy a portable wireless MiFi (some tour operators provide these for guests who want internet accesss while on safari).
You’ll find free WiFi at Entebbe Airport and in most hotels, cafes and restaurants in Kampala and in major towns and popular tourist destinations.
Do you have any tips on how to call internationally from Uganda?
… And if you have other travel tips or advice for expats in Uganda, please comment here or contact the Muzungu. I love hearing from you!
An American asks: should we reconsider travel because of Ebola?
A tourist from the United States asked: “should we reconsider travel to Uganda because of Ebola?” Simple answer? The World Health Organization declared the Ebola outbreak finished after 42 days without any new infections.
The Muzungu writes: I often receive questions from visitors to Uganda. Here’s a copy of an email exchange I had in November 2022 with David in the United States. The Ebola outbreak is completely behind us now but I leave this post here simply for historical purposes.
Subject: Travel enquiry
I wanted to travel to Uganda this December, but the State Department says that because of ebola, we should reconsider travel to Uganda. Additionally, that if we do travel, we should expect flights to be cancelled. Finally, on arrival, we have to be taken to [New York (JFK), Newark (EWR), Atlanta (ATL), Chicago (ORD) or Washington (IAD)] designated airports for more screening before being released.
How is the situation? Have you heard of any flight cancellations from Uganda to the U.S because of ebola?
Thank you. Happy Thanksgiving.
The Muzungu replies:
Good morning David. Thanks for your message.
There is no reason why you should alter your travel plans. It’s most likely that you will go directly from Entebbe Airport to the National Parks and there are no reported cases in any of those areas.
Government information I saw yesterday says that we have had no new cases in 10 days. We have detailed contact tracing in place, based on decades of experience managing disease outbreak. World Health Organization, CDC (Center for Disease Control) and others are part of that process.
Most people are continuing to travel as normal. A few people have cancelled trips and a few people have postponed.
Government advisories are always extremely cautious. We are pretty disturbed by how over the top the US / CDC are on this one. They are based on absolute worst case scenarios. We who live in Uganda feel the situation is under control.
If you have any more questions, please don’t hesitate to ask. I answer questions all the time from potential travelers.
Dear Charlotte
Thank you so much for your detailed and informative response. I couldn’t have asked for anything more. I was really scared after reading from the State Department and the CDC [statement stated October 6 2022, link above]. Last thing you want is to be labelled as an ebola carrier.
If you say it is safe to go from the airport to the national parks, then I will talk to my friends so we can go from there. I hope you don’t mind if I share this email with my group with whom I am meant to travel. I want them to see it for themselves. They were all freaked out!
Thx again for the help Charlotte.
The Muzungu writes:
We’re all yearning to travel again post-pandemic so the last thing anyone wants to think about is Ebola…! Thankfully, the outbreak should soon pass.
It may be too early to celebrate any successes, but overall, I have been briefed that the picture is good. As I indicated to you earlier, Ebola is a contact disease, unlike coronavirus which is airborne, hence much easier to control, despite its devastating nature.
President Yoweri Museveni, November 26 2022
I regularly update several blogs, the most important being Latest news from Entebbe Airport. Safe travels! And don’t hesitate to message me if you need a little reassurance from a Ugandan resident like me.
MASH-tastic! The muzungu’s bus tips from Kampala to Nairobi [UPDATED]
Taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Try MASH! Bus travel tips and visa info.
The brilliant East Africa Tourist Visa and Interstate Pass mean that travel between Uganda, Kenya and Rwanda is easier than ever for nationals and has become easier and cheaper for tourists and expats too. Cue: a lot more travel around the three countries for this Muzungu! I’ve taken the MASH bus between Kampala and Nairobi a few times now, and can recommend it. [NOTE this blog post was updated in February 2023. We tried calling various advertised numbers, but failed to get through].
Overall, the Kampala / Nairobi MASH bus service has been excellent. I hardly felt the dreaded bump, bump, bump of the ‘rumble strips’ and managed to sleep most of the journey. Or shall I say, I fell asleep / woke up / fell asleep / woke up… over and over again.
We liked the idea of having a toilet on the bus. If it had been working, that would have been even better! According to the driver, “it is women’s fault that the toilets do not work.” Hmmm… surely they could have fixed it though?
The MASH system is well organised and departs – on time – from the relative calm of the National Theatre, making it a far less hectic experience than going to downtown Kampala bus parks with all their congestion and pickpockets. In Nairobi, however, the bus departs from the equally crazy River Road. Have your wits about you here, as lots of guys will come running at you trying to sell you a cab fair / give you unwanted directions, etc. It can be a bit overwhelming if you’ve just woken up! Don’t rush to get off the bus; pace yourself and check you have all your belongings first.
Back outside the National Theatre in Kampala, an hour before the agreed departure time, a lady called us over to a table in front of our bus where she checked our tickets and passports. Next to her, a very friendly guy checked the contents of all our bags. Another three men in bright orange overalls loaded bags and boxes into the bus. I was asked to remove the padlock from my bag, which obviously I did not want to do. I was told that it was necessary for the security check at the border. I removed a couple of valuables that I’d put in my big bag, and just hoped that everything else would be safe. It was.
The MASH bus was clean. The seatbelt worked, as did the single power socket on the wall next to me. I chose to sit in the second class ‘executive’ section, just a few seats from the front. It had a decent amount of legroom and a reclining seat. My friends in the VIP seats, directly behind the driver, had even more legroom, plus they were allowed to have their big bags with them.
Every bus passenger was handed a small packet of biscuits and a packet of sugary ‘juice.’ My experience of cross-border bus journeys in East Africa is to avoid drinking at all costs, as you can never be sure the driver will stop when you need him to! However, on the MASH bus, we had three ‘comfort breaks’ before we arrived in Nairobi. It’s a “short break for a short call” and these guys do not hang around, believe me.
The driver put on some loud music for our uneventful drive to the border.
Entering Kenya later that night, one of the immigration officials growled a demand to see my Yellow Fever certificate. Luckily I had a photograph of it on my phone.
My friend Julia complained that she hardly slept for the whole journey between Kampala and Nairobi. She only fell asleep for the most interesting part: passing through a private wildlife reserve, where I spotted zebra and antelope from my window seat! “You snooze, you lose” as she likes to tell me… Lol.
According to Wikipedia, “Elmenteita is derived from the Masaai word muteita, meaning “dust place”, a reference to the dryness and dustiness of the area, especially between January and March. In the south-to-north sequence of Rift Valley lakes, Elmenteita is between Lake Naivasha and Lake Nakuru. The major Nairobi – Nakuru highway (A104 road) runs along the nearby escarpment affording motorists a spectacular vista towards the lake. Today the lake is a protected area due to its birdlife. Elementeita – together with Lake Nakuru and Lake Bogoria – has been named a heritage site by UNESCO.” (In 2019 I finally went on safari in Lake Elmenteita – I am still thrilled at the large numbers of flamingos I saw that weekend! The horse ride along the lakeshore was spectacular).
Travel tips for taking the bus between Kampala and Nairobi
NOTE: I don’t guarantee all info is correct. You should check prices, departure times yourself. This is a personal account based on my own experience.
- MASH buses leave on time.
- The MASH booking office in Kampala is in Dewinton Road opposite the National Theatre.
- In Uganda, you can use MTN mobile money to purchase your ticket. Tel +256 (0)774 082853 is the MTN Mobile Money number registered to Mash Bus Services. I used this myself. I first called the booking office to reserve my seat numbers; confirmed my payment using mobile money; then made a second phone call to check they had seen my payment.
- The MASH booking office in Nairobi is in River Road. Their official number is +254 733 623260. In Kenya, you can also book your bus tickets and reserve your seat online and pay by Safaricom’s M-Pesa. (Paybill number 857988). This worked well too.
- To double check ticket prices and times, check out the MASH East Africa website or visit one of their offices.
- Please don’t message me – I don’t work for Mash, I’m just a customer like you 😎
Bus departure times from Kampala and Nairobi
(Please get there early: we’ve called several times to check timings and prices and the info given is inconsistent). Ticket classes are: VIP, business class and ordinary (availability depends on whether you get MASH POA or MASH COOL).
Kampala to Nairobi
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the National Theatre.
Nairobi to Kampala
At 4 pm and 6 pm MASH bus departs from the MASH office in River Road.
MASH Cool is the air-conditioned bus. (MASH POA can get a bit sweaty!) I liked MASH Cool but you will need a blanket (or shuka) if you take the overnight bus. The MASH Cool bus has curtains too.
- Make sure you have your Yellow Fever and COVID-19 vaccination certificates (or a negative PCR test).
- Keep photographs of your passport and other important travel documents (bus ticket and Yellow Fever Certificate) on your phone.
- Although the bus does have power sockets, in my experience, they don’t always work. Take a spare battery pack for long journeys so you can access digital documents any time.
- Nationals of Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya just have to show a passport or national ID and are given a temporary Interstate Pass. Ugandans who do not have passports are advised to get a temporary travel document. Cost 10k UGX. If you’re in Kampala, you can get one issued at Port Bell (or you can buy it at the border).
- Expats with work permits can get an Interstate Pass at the border as well. There is no form to fill in (just the standard arrivals form) and there is no cost. Yay!
- If you need a visa, you are supposed to apply online in advance, whether it’s for a single country visa or an East Africa Tourist Visa. However, all visas appear to be available in person at a border (except EATV, you’ll need to read my blog about that one).
Check out the blogs I’ve written about tourist visas
- Uganda – NOW LIVE: apply for Ugandan tourist visas online
- East Africa – What is the East Africa Tourist Visa? A definitive guide
- Rwanda – Rwanda announces all travelers can get #VisaOnArrival
- The set-up at the Kenya / Uganda border has changed and you now leave one country / enter another within the same building. Previously, you had to get your exit visa from one country and then walk across the border before getting your entry visa into the next country. I found the new system confusing and had apparently entered Kenya illegally! Apparently I did not have one of the required passport stamps, even though I had been processed by three different people at immigration.
- The MASH ticket says “Smoking, alcohol, chewing miraa is prohibited. Maximum luggage limit is 15 KG, any extra weight will be charged. Passengers are warned not to take any foodstuff offered by stranger.” In the past there were incidences of bus passengers being drugged and robbed (not on any particular route or with any particular bus company).
- In addition to the Uganda / Kenya route, MASH also operate to major towns across Kenya.
- Dreamline have also been recommended to me.
Have you taken the bus between Kampala and Nairobi? Which operator do you recommend?
Kampala’s top hotels & restaurants for Christmas & New Year! [UPDATED 2022]
Where are you celebrating Christmas Day? And which is Kampala’s best hotel for New Year?
DECEMBER 2022: If you’re celebrating Christmas in Kampala, the restaurants at the capital’s top hotels have a long list of festivities planned for you. Below is the muzungu’s choice of Kampala’s leading hotels and restaurants, all updated for 2022.
Scroll down to whet your appetite for festivities happening in Kampala on Christmas Eve, Christmas Day, Boxing Day, New Year’s Eve and New Year’s Day.
Kampala has something for every taste: cocktails, brunch, lunch, high tea and barbecues; buffets, traditional Christmas dinners, gala dinners and Christmas-themed menus, children’s activities, carol concerts, pool parties and fireworks. Hotels have special seasonal accommodation offers. Why not relax somewhere snazzy for a few days? Pamper yourself and enjoy a spa treatment.
Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉
Christmas and New Year at the Kampala Serena Hotel
Below are a few highlights of the Kampala Serena Hotel’s festive season. Click on the images for their 2022 programme or download the whole programme here.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Lake Victoria Serena Hotel
Click here for the Lake Victoria Serena’s Xmas 2022 and New Year accommodation offers.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at the Sheraton Kampala Hotel
Scroll down for a few highlights of the Sheraton Kampala Hotel’s holiday programme.
Christmas 2022 and New Year at Speke Resort Munyonyo, Kampala
Speke Resort has a comprehensive Xmas and New Year programme, with activities planned throughout the holidays. The Christmas Day programme includes live band, kid’s play area and Santa! Christmas Lunch Buffet includes a complimentary glass of bubbly.
Splash out at Le Chateau Brasserie Belge! Christmas Eve and Christmas Buffet 2022
Christmas Day at Mestil Hotel, Nsambya, Kampala
The Festive Season is a joyous time of Celebration at Mestil Hotel & Residences. Enjoy special moments as you celebrate with friends and family.
Mestil Hotel & Residences, Kampala
Protea Hotels by Marriott, Kampala
Kampala has two Protea Hotels: the first one is on Acacia Avenue; the second “Skyz” is in Naguru. Both hotels have a number of special festive meals planned for Xmas 2022 and the New Year. The Chapter Two Restaurant at the Protea Marriott Naguru Skyz Hotel has amazing views of Kampala’s skyline – as the name suggests!
Christmas and New Year at Latitude 0° Hotel, Kampala
Scroll down for a few highlights of Latitude 0° Kampala Hotel’s festivities.
Click on the images below to see more Christmas 2022 holiday ideas!
Call the hotels and restaurants listed for more details on what’s on offer and please tell them the Muzungu sent you 😉
For Christmas and New Year bookings, please contact the individual hotels and restaurants listed – and do say the muzungu sent you 😉
Go Wild in UG! The Muzungu chats with Wanderlust readers
Wanderlust Travel Magazine: live webinar answering FAQs about Uganda safaris, gorilla vs. chimp tracking, where to see the Shoebill in Uganda, self-drive vs. guided tours…
I had to pinch myself when travel expert Mr Philip Briggs asked whether I’d have time to talk live to readers of the famous Wanderlust Travel Magazine. Well, YES! There’s nothing I like better than waxing lyrical about my favourite subject: travel to Uganda!
Wanderlust Travel Magazine “More than 300 of you tuned into our Uganda event to hear Charlotte Beauvoisin, writer of the award-winning blog Diary of a Muzungu, speak live from this incredible country alongside other expert speakers and the Uganda Tourism Board. We learned all about Uganda’s incredible wildlife and fascinating culture.
Featured image of leopard in tree. PHOTO by Peter Hogel. Courtesy MJ Safaris Uganda.
Scroll down to watch the – very lively! – recording “to explore the unspoiled and wildlife-filled landscapes of Uganda. During this virtual evening of travel, we will be meeting the experts who will bring to life the huge biodiversity, local culture and space for adventure in this incredible part of the world.”
Where was Charlotte talking from?
“I was talking live from Kyaninga Lodge a high-end lodge near Fort Portal and Kibale Forest in western Uganda (a good base for chimp tracking).”
Can you drive yourself around Uganda or is it easier to hire a driver?
“Self-drive holidays in Uganda are possible but not recommended if you haven’t done an African road trip before. We always recommend having a driver guide. They know every road – and pothole! They will tell you what time you need to leave your lodge for your next activity, maintain your vehicle and generally be a really good addition to your experience of Uganda. Ideally hire a trained guide with expertise in your particular interest e.g. safari, birding, culture, etc. If you do choose to self-drive, don’t drive at night. Very few roads are lit so driving can be dangerous. I frequently take bus trips between Uganda, Rwanda and Kenya. Buses are incredibly cheap but they don’t have the best safety reputation. (Some of them have seatbelts but few ever work). Large buses ply city routes. Between towns, you will need to catch a matatu minivan taxi, which are very cramped.”
Can you self-drive in Uganda’s National Parks?
“Yes it’s possible to drive yourself in Uganda’s National Parks but you must stick to the marked tracks. Failure to do so may result in a cash fine or even eviction from the park. If you travel independently, you will need to have a Uganda Wildlife Authority armed ranger escort, at your (small) cost. Choose the right one, and you will have an expert guide to your Uganda safari. Although the idea of doing your own game drive sounds exciting, local people know exactly where the different wildlife hunts and sleeps. (It’s amazing what you may drive past while looking in the other direction!)”
What budget do you recommend per day, excluding air fares, for a Ugandan safari?
“Options can vary wildly according to the standard of accommodation and the number of people in your group. You generally pay a little more for lodges and hotels inside a National Park. Uganda has a range of accommodation from homestays and campsites to mid-range hotels and luxury lodges with spas and butler service. Daily rate would usually include: 4×4 vehicle (often a minibus van) with English-speaking driver and fuel; accommodation and meals; some activities such as game drives and nature walks (the more expensive gorilla / chimp tracking permits are usually charged extra).
Generally speaking, allow a budget of $200 or more / day to cover all of the above. If opting to stay in high-end lodges, daily rates would start at $450 per person. [Prices estimated April 2022]. For best value, travel in a group of four or more.” Looking for a tour operator? Check out my Travel Directory.
How accessible and reliable is medical care for tourists in Uganda?
“The first thing to remember is to buy travel insurance before you travel to Uganda. It’s easy to access basic medical advice and clinics in Uganda but if you take regular medication, do bring a good supply with you. It can be difficult to access certain medicines outside Kampala, however, you will easily find malaria testing and treatment facilities, for example. Malaria prevention is always better than cure. Minimise health risks by taking antimalarials, sleeping under a mosquito net and alerting your guide or tour company if you are feeling unwell. Drink filtered or bottled water (few tourists complain of stomach upsets in Uganda).
For more serious health issues, you would need to get to a town or even Kampala. Medivac evacuation (by helicopter for example) is available but very expensive. Compared to many countries, Uganda has not been badly hit by COVID-19. Read Uganda travel advice I ignored – my advice on various health and safety issues based on my 10+ years living in Uganda.”
How does chimpanzee tracking differ from mountain gorilla tracking?
They’re big and they’re hairy – but other than that these two great apes are radically different. Mountain gorillas are huge but gentle vegetarians. Chimpanzees are nutters!
Mountain gorillas spend most of their day on the ground, sleeping and farting. Chimpanzees can cover a big range up in the trees. (Yes, ok, they also fart a lot!)
Gorilla tracking is amazing because of the rainforest territory and the climb through the mist to find them. Chimp tracking is hilarious – they are so like us. (Or are we like them?)
I love both primate tracking experiences. I can’t say one is better than the other but price is definitely a consideration. In 2022 in Uganda, it costs $700 for a gorilla tracking permit. By comparison, a chimp tracking permit is between $50 to $200, depending which National Park or Forest Reserve you track in. Read the Uganda Wildlife Authority’s conservation fees for tariff for 2022- 2024.
Where is the best place to see giraffe and elephants in Uganda?
“The best place to see (Rothschild’s) giraffe would definitely be Murchison Falls National Park. Smaller populations have been reintroduced to Lake Mburo and Pian Upe Wildlife Reserve; you can also see giraffes (and cheetah and a lot more) in Kidepo, in Uganda’s remote north east. Elephant can be easily seen in the popular Queen Elizabeth and Murchison Falls National Parks.”
How easy is it to see the Shoebill bird in Uganda?
“I once saw three Shoebills on the Delta boat ride in Murchison Falls National Park. Their size makes them easy to spot but they are shy and very few in number. Make sure you have an expert guide. If you absolutely have to see the Shoebill – and time or budget are an issue – why not pass by Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe? In addition to the Shoebill, you can see indigenous species such as elephant, lion, white rhino, chimpanzee and serval cats. Another location that is an easy drive from Entebbe is Mabamba Bay. Although the Shoebill can be viewed in other parts of Uganda, the places listed here are Uganda’s most popular Shoebill viewing destinations.”
What is the one experience or one place in Uganda that people should experience?
“Murchison Falls National Park in northern Uganda is the country’s most popular National Park (yet for all that, there are few tourists compared to many of Africa’s tourist areas). The park is named after the dramatic falls where the River Nile narrows from 1/2 a kilometre wide to just seven metres wide and plunges 43 metres. It’s a fantastic sight, seen from below via boat or from above: at the Top of the Falls, you can feel the power of the water in the rocks beneath your feet. I write about it in Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron, Murchison Falls. Murchison is an excellent safari destination, whether for game drives, safari boat rides, birdwatching or chimp tracking in Budongo. The Shoebill is one of Murchison’s 400+ bird species.”
Watch the full recording of the Wanderlust reader event: go wild in Uganda
What did Wanderlust readers have to say about the Go Wild in Uganda webinar event?
Thanks all. Now looking at a trip.
Thanks very much. It’s been a great evening. Great words from great people. Thanks very much to Charlotte and your friends, good job.
Thank you for a wonderful evening. It reminds us of the great time we had in Uganda (and that was without seeing the gorillas as we felt we weren’t fit enough for the trek). It also made us want to go again.
Thank you for a fascinating insight into Uganda. I really enjoyed the event and would love to visit there!
1600km across Uganda on a village bike, but why?
Uganda cycling trail. Interview with Alexander Bongers
Cycling and mountain biking have taken off in Uganda over the last few years – indeed the Uganda Cycling Trail gets a mention in CNN Travel’s Where to travel in 2023: The best destinations to visit! During lockdown, there was a worldwide surge in bike riding too. There is no doubt about it, Uganda is a superb place to cycle! The great weather and endless, marvellous scenery make for a stunning combination.
Alexander ‘Lex’ Bongers is one of Uganda’s passionate Dutch expat cyclists. I was amazed when he told me he was planning to cycle from one corner of the country to another with his colleague Lawrence Kakande. It’s pretty nuts to hear they did this on a local bicycle without gears! Read their story below and keep following Diary of a Muzungu for more brilliant cycling stories.
Diary of a Muzungu: Lex, cycling from Kisoro to Kidepo sure sounds like a big adventure! But it must also have been physically challenging. How is your body feeling now?
Not that bad actually, which surprises me as well! Lawrence hurt his knee on one of the last days, but personally I feel fitter than ever!
Diary of a Muzungu: You are and your friend Lawrence are probably the first people to ever ride this journey, certainly on a village bicycle. How did you ever come up with this crazy plan?
I am the coordinator of Adventure Tourism Uganda, wherein we aim to further develop the adventure tourism sector in Uganda. If there is one kind of tourism that has a lot of untapped potential throughout the country (and has a lot of social, economic and environmental benefits) it’s adventure tourism.
Thies Timmermans of Red Dirt Uganda has developed the Uganda Cycling Trail, a cycling route that links the extreme southwest of the country to Uganda’s extreme northeast. The idea is that these routes can be used by any cyclist. Testing this route on a village bicycle started off as a joke to be honest: we wondered whether it was actually possible to complete it on a village bicycle, so that you don’t need a fancy bicycle with a hundred gears. To prepare for our trip, we simply bought two steel roadmaster bicycles (the ones you see throughout the countryside). These bicycles have no gears, no suspension and are pretty heavy. They even have a sticker on them that reads “extra heavy.” Despite all that, they ride quite nicely.
Diary of a Muzungu: The fact that I am now able to talk to you, with you having a bright smile on your face, shows that it was possible… You guys made it!
Exactly! I am quite proud that we were able to finish the journey of about 1,600 km in 24 days (with an additional 5 days of rest mid-way). The only motorized vehicle we used between Kisoro and Kidepo was the ferry to the Ssese Islands as well as a stretch between Moroto and Kotido where cycling was currently not advised. But we entered Kenya to compensate for that!
Diary of a Muzungu: What about Uganda’s mountains? Were you able to cycle up Mt Elgon or the Kigezi hills without gears?
Not in the slightest. I don’t think anybody would. But the thing is, you become very humble: you know your limits and just walk. On a previous occasion, I cycled up to Sipi on Mt. Elgon on a mountain bike, and it was quite tough. But on this trip, Lawrence and I just walked and it wasn’t too difficult. Sometimes however, I felt like a Nepalese sherpa, with my bicycle a yak carrying my bags. There was something oddly satisfying about it.
Diary of a Muzungu: So are you saying your marathon trip wasn’t difficult at all?
Oh no, don’t get me wrong, sometimes it was challenging, but generally it was doable!
The last six days were part of the Tour of Karamoja, organized by Kara-Tunga Tours. It was exactly the type of epic final we hoped for.
The longest day comprised a 133 km journey from Lake Turkwel in Kenya to Moroto in Uganda. At only halfway through that day, my bum was causing me so much pain that I felt we would have to amputate the whole of my lower body. To add further misery, we cycled through a whole day of thunderstorms and pouring rain between Kaabong and Kidepo. I even fell into a big pool of muddy water. In an attempt to keep my phone dry, I had wrapped it in a plastic cavera bag. Sadly, my “phone-in-cavera” died in that muddy pool. But when we finally reached Nakaba gate in Kidepo Valley National Park, the sky cleared and we had a incredible ride through Kidepo; everyone who visits Kidepo says it’s Uganda’s most beautiful park.
Diary of a Muzungu: Any other highlights of your trip?
Lake Mutanda and Lake Bunyonyi in southwestern Uganda are of course very beautiful, and their shores are great for cycling and so is the far side of Murchison Bay, just opposite Gaba in Kampala.
Mt Elgon was fantastic as well, particularly a tricky downhill section just beyond Kapchorwa.
A personal highlight was to cycle to Malaba, at the Kenyan border. I lived there for half a year in 2014 and I hadn’t told anyone I would pass by on a village bike. The fact that I could tell my friends that no, I wasn’t cycling from nearby Tororo but from Kisoro, several hundred kilometres away, was something I spent weeks looking forward to! My old friends absolutely loved my story (but also had difficulties believing it!) But still, none of these highlights could compete with the sheer adventure and beauty of Karamoja.
Diary of a Muzungu: Did you have a lot of punctures along the way?
No, not at all! The only real modification we made to the bicycle was to make it tubeless. To do this, we removed the tube and replaced it with sealant. This reduced the chances of punctures. Actually, I don’t know how to explain it well, as I do not know anything at all about bike mechanics: I just know how to ride them. I really, really owe everything to Lawrence as without him I would probably still be in Kisoro, trying to figure out how to secure my bag to the bicycle!
Diary of a Muzungu: What are you going to do now? Are you planning to do something similar again soon?
I am not sure yet. I am thinking of cycling to West Nile next year, or participating in the Kyaninga Ride the Rift Race on this very bike, outcompeting all the gravel bikes. (I might also just grow fat and start living on past glories, like those retired football players). Time will tell. But I will definitely keep on spreading the gospel of the Uganda Cycling Trail and promoting cycling in Uganda generally, as it is simply fantastic!
Diary of a Muzungu: And what about your bike?
For now, the bike will get a break. He deserves it…
Uganda tourist visas – apply online before you fly [UPDATED]
All Ugandan tourist visas and work permits are now online. January 2023: apply BEFORE you travel. I get a lot of questions about visa on arrival at Entebbe Airport but we have heard multiple instances of airlines refusing to board passengers who don’t have their visa approval letter. Visa on arrival is no longer available.
DISCLAIMER: I update this page regularly based on my personal travel experiences, feedback from expats, tourism industry colleagues, visitors to Uganda and advice from an immigration lawyer. Scroll down for more information and do read all the comments for the latest feedback on the Uganda visa application process.
Since 2020, every traveller has to consider COVID-19 protocols. For what to expect when passing through Uganda’s international airport, read Latest travel news from Entebbe International Airport (updated regularly).
The Ugandan government has set an online electronic visa application system. This is (in theory) mandatory for applying for all Ugandan visas, including: entry permit (work permit), Uganda tourist visa, multiple entry visa, transit visa, East Africa tourist visa, student pass, diplomatic visa, official visa, special pass, Certificate of Residence, dependent’s pass.
Which nationals need to pay for a visa to enter Uganda?
Click here to see the “List of visa exempt nationalities. If your nationality is on the list, you don’t need to apply for a visa to enter in Uganda.
Requests for tourist visas, passes and work permits (E-Visa and E-permits) should now be completed via this link on the official Uganda immigration website.
Under the new application process, applicants for all immigration services such as visas, work permits and passes will be required to apply and pay online, and an electronic notification / authorisation will be sent to the applicant before proceeding to the preferred Entry Point e.g. Entebbe International Airport or the nearest Uganda Mission abroad for the visa to be issued.
If you are travelling to Uganda and applying for a Ugandan visa online, you are advised to:
Apply at least ONE MONTH prior to travel. (However, some applications are approved in hours, others days, some not at all… if you apply too early, your visa approval may even get cancelled and there’s no guarantee you will get your money back).
Be prepared. You need to complete the online application in one sitting. The online application does not allow you to save your information and return to the screen later. Have these ready: a copy of your bio page of your passport, a recent passport photo, Yellow Fever vaccination certificate and COVID-19 vaccination certificate (or negative PCR test results if you’re not vaccinated). You will need to upload these. For more info on the exact documents needed, according to type of visa you require, go to the Uganda immigration web site general information page.
By the way, the photo is US passport photo size (not Canadian, one Diary of a Muzungu reader tells me, which is a larger size).
If you’re applying for a single entry tourits visa, you’ll need to upload:
- Passport bio-data page (with validity of at least 6 months)
- Recent Passport-size Photo
- Yellow Fever Vaccination Certificate
- Return Ticket
Only PDF, JPEG, PNG and BMP files are accepted. The files you upload should not be bigger than 250kb (that’s pretty small!) so resize all your docs before you start the application process.
The decision taken on the online application (“yes” or “no” on whether you’re coming to Uganda) will be sent via email. Assuming you get the go-ahead, your visa approval letter will be sent as an email attachment. You’re advised to print this travel authorisation (showing a barcode) and keep this with your travel documents (although it is not mandatory apparently). However, Ugandans do love printed papers so print everything you can, just to avoid unforeseen delays.
The Uganda immigration web site details the fees for applying for Ugandan visas online.
You can pay online for your Uganda tourist visa. Only Mastercard and Visa are accepted online and there is a 3% surcharge for online payment. Currently, the single entry Uganda tourist visa fee is $55: $50 for the visa and $5 admin fee. For the tourist visa, work permit and pass fees, see Uganda Immigration’s fees for applying for Ugandan visas online or the website of Africa Immigration Advisory Services, Kampala a company I recommend.
When you complete the visa application process, it is very important that you make a note of your application number! You may need this in case you have to follow up. Otherwise, click here to retrieve your Uganda visa application ID but some people say this hasn’t always worked
Present the printed barcode at point of entry [read “Entebbe Airport”] together with a valid passport / travel document of “not less than 6 months validity” and you will get your tourist visa.
NOTE: “the travel authorization [approval] letter does not guarantee entry into Uganda. Travelers will be subjected to secondary verification where necessary before personalization,” meaning it is not 100% guarantee you will be issued a visa at the airport / border / Uganda mission (but you probably will, unless you’ve been very naughty indeed).
For answers to Frequently Asked Questions, go to the Uganda immigration Help page.
As you’ll see from the comments below, lots of visa applications get stuck at the “pending” stage. This is normally because the applicant has forgotten to send in one of the documents, or immigration are requesting more information (but frequently aren’t clear what that is!) There have been lots of complaints about emails not being answered but Uganda immigration do reply fairly quickly via their Facebook page.
The Directorate for Citizenship and Immigration’s call centre is open from 7am to 7pm Uganda time (with plans for it to be operated 24 hours at some stage). Call +256 417 102600 or toll-free 0800 199004 / 0800 199003 in Uganda.
Uganda has 22 official ‘points of entry’ border posts. They include Entebbe International Airport, Katuna (or Gatuna), Malaba, Busia, Cyanika, Mirama Hills and Elegu. Entebbe International Airport has the majority of tourist arrivals, followed by Katuna (Rwanda) and Busia (Kenya border).
Any feedback or questions on applying for Ugandan visas online? Do please contact the muzungu or share in the comments below. I review this page on a regular basis. Thanks to everyone who has shared their visa application experiences!
I also have a post about the East Africa Tourist Visa and a post on Rwanda’s announcement that all travelers can get visa on arrival.
Advice to would-be Ugandan travel writers – a competition!
Uganda’s Travel Writing Competition 2022 [now closed]
Writing has opened many doors for me.
Get writing between now and the end of July and you have a chance to win one of these prizes:
- 1 million Uganda shillings (always good)
- An all-expenses-paid trip to “somewhere in Uganda” (nice!)
- Mentoring (arguably the best prize of all, if you’re serious about a writing career)
The second annual Travel Writing Competition is the initiative of Irene Allen Namisango and the team at Uganda Uncovered. The muzungu will be one of the judges, alongside Julius Luwemba (journalist, writer and photographer) and Dr Jim Ayorekire (Senior Lecturer and Researcher, Makerere University).
Here are some of the things I have learned about being a travel writer.
How did I start writing Diary of a Muzungu? And why?
I started Diary of Muzungu in 2008 as I was preparing to quit my 9-to-5 job in London. This blog records the life-changing experience of saying goodbye to the corporate life to volunteer with the Uganda Conservation Foundation. Back then, Diary of a Muzungu was simply a personal diary (adjusting to power cuts, Luganda lessons and shopping in Namuwongo market!)
The discipline of daily writing allowed me to reflect on my radically new life. (You don’t have to publish everything of course.) Journaling – or old-fashioned scribbling in a diary – can be therapeutic as well as a chance to develop your own style. Why do I blog? 10 surprisingly for lessons from a self-confessed blogoholic. I look back on my early blogs and can see that regular blogging has improved my writing. My sentences are better structured. I have found my voice.
Writing was already a big part of my life before Uganda. I wrote proposals and reports for a living; the content could be dull, but it was excellent training. (When I felt creative, I would write for the staff newsletter). Fast forward and – hello world – I am a judge in a travel writing competition, a trainer and mentor.
Tips for being a successful travel writer
You have to put in the hours, consistently. Here is a behind-the-scenes view of a typical work trip Swahili Beach – confessions of a travel blogger.
If you want to be a good travel writer, the writing is far more important than the travelling. Travel can be costly – and you are unlikely to get any trips funded until you have a strong portfolio – so don’t ignore what’s on your doorstep. Here are my top tips for Ugandans who want to travel.
What are the job opportunities for travel writers in Uganda?
As tourism develops in Uganda, companies are looking for talented writers to help them with their marketing. We need new ideas and perspectives but most of all, we need original, quality work. I get fed up with seeing my content posted on other people’s sites (without so much as a courtesy tag). Come on Uganda – try harder!
Unfortunately, Uganda’s copy and paste culture undermines quality output. It also weakens the destination brand if we’re all just rehashing the same content. When I say that we need original content, I mean that each story should be written from scratch. In addition, we need to look for new topics and alternative ways to structure our communications. Don’t just copy somebody else’s ideas. Do not start with “I got up in the morning and I had breakfast.” It’s boring. Find your voice. You might not get it right first time. Practice. Read.
A note for tourism businesses looking for travel content
Employers need to understand that quality writing is a resource-intensive task. It takes time to research a subject, check the facts, write the narrative, edit, review, edit again and proofread. A decent blog post or magazine article involves many revisions. (At some point, I will put an article to one side so that I can go back to it later with fresh eyes). Your travel content could be someone’s first impression of Uganda. It must read well and all the facts must be verified.
What is the theme of this year’s Travel Writing competition?
“My 100% recommendable destination in Uganda.”
Articles should be 800-1000 words about the writer’s recommended destination. According to Irene, the aim of the story is “to keep a reader engrossed and desire to visit that particular place.” Stories should be “anecdotes from personal travel experiences from road trips to camping experiences, weekend getaways to long safaris.”
At the June 21 launch at the Uganda Museum, Basil Ajer, the Director of Tourism at the Ministry of Tourism, Wildlife and Antiquities, urged “Please contestants make use of this [writing] opportunity… write and make the readers accept that Uganda is the Pearl of Africa.”
Daniel Irunga pledged total support of the initiative on behalf of the Uganda Tourism Board.
Richard Kawere, head of the Uganda Tourism Association, the industry’s apex body also endorsed the event. He has been very supportive of the initiative from its inception. “Content writing is one of the biggest gaps in the tourism industry in Uganda.”
Eric Ntalo, Uganda Wildlife Education Centre Public Relations Manager, said “It is important for Ugandans to be involved in promoting conservation and tourism. It is one sustainable way to benefit from all the endowments the country has.”
How to enter the Travel Writing Competition 2022
- The competition is open to Ugandans of 18–35 years.
- The closing date is 11:59 PM July 31, 2022.
- Submit your story as a PDF – with pictures.
- There are no fees to enter the competition.
- Articles should be between 800–1000 words.
- The organisers state that “Winners will be invited to take part in a 3-month training with the Uncovered Youth Writers Hub to further hone their writing skills. These trainings will be facilitated by award-winning travel writers and authors. Winning articles will be featured on our websites and social media platforms. In addition to the prizes, free trips and visibility, shortlisted travel writers stand a chance at employment and travel writing gigs with reputable travel agencies on the hunt for writers.”
One final word of writing advice from Diary of Muzungu
Start writing now. Don’t wait until the last minute. Start jotting some ideas down.
Multi-millionaire author Stephen King advises Write with the door closed, rewrite with the door open (meaning don’t worry about your ugly grammar or what anyone else thinks. Just dump those ideas on the page then come back to them later).
Good luck everyone! I look forward to reading your entries – and featuring a few of the winning travel stories on Diary of a Muzungu 🙂
