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Why I love elephant dung!

Visit these two brilliant community tourism projects in Ishasha: Deo’s Homestead Tour and Agartha’s Taste of Uganda Tour

elephant trench Ishasha Queen Elizabeth National Park

Diary of a Muzungu with Deo the farmer and his family, on the edge of the elephant trench that borders Queen Elizabeth National Park. Here Deo is showing us how he burns chilli and elephant dung to deter elephants from crossing the trench into his garden

boy in elephant trench Ishasha Queen Elizabeth National Park

One of Deo’s sons illustrates how big an elephant’s footprint is! Maintaining the trench is a constant job. Elephants, buffalo and bushpigs can access the trench from poorly maintained sections. Standing in the elephant trench. Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park

Signpost to Deo's community tourism project Ishasha

Signpost to Deo’s Model Homestead Tour, a community tourism project in Ishasha. Leaving Kihihi trading centre, drive for 20 minutes, through the next trading centre. Deo’s is on the left, immediately before the park boundary. His homestead is a few minutes drive from the main road

You might not believe it but it was elephants – or what comes out of the back end of them – that first brought me to Uganda.

Colleagues back in London laughed out loud when I told them about the first project that the Uganda Conservation Foundation had planned for me: collecting elephant dung with the Uganda Wildlife Authority, all part of a global project to analyse and map elephant DNA and crack down on ivory poaching.

“No shit?”

As it turned out, some other lucky bugger got this job, not the muzungu. Several weeks bouncing around in a 4 x 4 looking for elusive elephants may not have been quite as glamorous as I first thought anyway …

Kikarara elephant trench, south western Uganda

Diary of a Muzungu’s first visit to an elephant trench. This trench, also funded by the Uganda Conservation Foundation, is at Kikarara, in south western Uganda. Ideally, it should measure 2 metres wide by 2 metres deep, to stop elephants crossing into the fields of crops

Regardless, the muzungu has a soft spot for elephant dung (yes, I know ‘I have issues’) so I was delighted to be invited on my next adventure with Julia, heading back to Ishasha, south western Uganda, to check out Deo’s Homestead Tour (originally developed and funded as part of the Ishasha Community Uplift Project).

What – no bananas? No baby Dillon to bounce on my knee?

Community tourism, elephant conservation, a chance to meet the farmers, solutions for managing ‘human wildlife conflict’ – this very cool project ticks all the right boxes for me – with OR without bananas.

Sunrise south western Uganda. Community tourism

Sun rises over the fields of Ishasha, south western Uganda. Deo sleeps in this guarding hut every night on his land, away from his family, on the look-out for hungry elephants that may eat or destroy his entire harvest in just a half an hour. Here he’s holding a lump of elephant dung (and a panga machete).

Deo was full of smiles and runs a great Model Homestead. This charming little girl is one of his daughters. The even more charming muzungu is Yours Truly of course, ha ha, bleary-eyed after a night’s camping with Julia and no morning tea! EH BANANGE!

Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Meet Deo’s family. The whole family is involved in the tour of the model homestead. We felt very welcome!

tippy tap. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Deo explains how the tippy tap works, as his daughter gives us a demo. This simple construction of a foot-powered wooden ‘pedal’ tips the water from the jerry can. It means people can wash their hands without touching anything, and helps reduce the spread of germs. Clever eh? Community tourism in Ishasha, Uganda

After two and a half years fundraising to protect farmers such as Deo and his family from crop raiding elephants, it was quite an honour to be invited to tour Deo’s Model Homestead in Ishasha, bordering Queen Elizabeth National Park. Deo’s community tourism project was originally part of the Ishasha Community Uplift Project but has been managed by Deo himself since 2017. Deo and Agartha (a neighbouring lady farmer) stood out as exceptional members of their community group, transforming their homes (and thus their incomes and their health) into ‘model homesteads.’ Community tourism projects like these are the perfect way to show tourists how rural Ugandans live.

Below, Deo burns a combination of elephant dung and homegrown chilli as a deterrent to would-be elephant encroachers. He was very proud to show us his techniques – but boy he lives on the edge. Fancy doing this every night, just to survive? 

Homegrown chilli and elephant dung fire. Community tourism, Uganda

Elephant dung deterrent used by Deo the farmer in Ishasha, Queen Elizabeth National Park

As well as a welcoming grin, Deo of course has an extra special feature: The Elephant Trench! – and he sure is proud of it!

UCOTA elephant trench maintenance. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha

Visitors to the trench are invited to get their hands dirty, literally! Felex Kamalha of UCOTA does his part. Rain can make the sides of the trench crumble. Hungry animals can soon find weak areas of the trench wall and attempt to cross into the fields of crops

Julia Lloyd. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Huge credit to (almost Dr.) Julia Lloyd who has been working hard to develop this brilliant interactive and educational tourism experience. Developing a community project and teaching the customer service skills expected by tourists can be challenging. The project is now self-sustaining!

human wildlife conflict, Deo's model homestead, Ishasha

When crop raiding animals approach his fields, Deo beats the jerry can loudly with a stick. This helps deter the animals and alerts the family and neighbours to come and make noise too

Muzungu banana pruning. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha

Deo shows Diary of a Muzungu how to use a machete to prune the banana plant. Stripping the dead leaves, with a diagonal slice of the machete, prevents water collecting and rotting the stem

Kihihi bike or chukudu. Deo's model homestead, Ishasha

One of the family shows us his wooden bike. The ‘Kihihi bike’ is actually an Eastern Congolese invention known as the chukudu or chikudu, and is used for transporting heavy goods. At Deo’s the kids play on it. Deo’s model homestead is approximately half an hour from the Congolese border by road

jackfruit tree, Deo's community tourism Uganda Ishasha

Deo’s Homestead Tour takes in fields of maize, bananas and medicinal plants. Here one of Deo’s sons climbs a jackfruit tree to see whether it is ripe. I love this project!

latrines at Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Deo the farmer gets 10 out of 10 for creativity – check out his latrines!

latrines at Deo's model homestead, Ishasha Community Uplift Project

Inside the latrines at Deo’s Model Homestead. Note the soft leaves of the ‘toilet paper’ and the banana fibre basket lid cover over the hole of the pit latrine. The latrine is clean, does not smell and has no flies – a lot cleaner than the average toilet in Kampala!

We’re off to Kihihi again next week to see how Deo’s been getting on. I wonder what stories Deo will have in store for us? Which of his livestock has the leopard run off with this time? And more importantly, have the elephants visited recently?

How to book Deo’s homestead tour, Ishasha

Deo is a working farmer so please call him one or two days before you plan to visit him to make sure he is available. His phone number is +256 (0)781 201368. (His tour was developed through the Ishasha Community Uplift Project but he now runs his tour independently).

Agartha’s “Taste of Uganda” is now the main Ishasha Community Uplift Project tourism experience. Read all about it here How to be a Mukiga woman – meet Agartha!

To book Agartha’s, call one or more days in advance. Call the Wild Frontiers office on +256 (0)41 4322551 / 0772 721155 or call Agartha directly on 0776 453121. Note that the community are working farmers and need to plan for your arrival.

Sign up to the Muzungu’s occasional newsletter to read about these and other great community tourism projects!

A disgusting day out

Looking for things to do around Kampala?

NatureUganda is a member organisation that organises affordable birdwatching trips around the country and researches numerous species, mainly birds.

Visiting the abattoir might not be top of every vegetarian’s wish list, but that didn’t stop two vegetarians from looking forward to a day out at the slaughterhouse, as part of Nature Uganda‘s annual vulture count. Interested in taking part?

Our gory tour took us to the very smelly outdoor Busega fish factory; the tidy, rustic Kyengera Abattoir and the formidable Kalerwe Abattoir, on the look-out for Hooded Vultures, Pied Crows, Brown Kites and Marabou Storks.

Nature Uganda vulture count, abattoir, Marabou storks

The annual Nature Uganda vulture count takes you to glamorous locations such as abattoirs! Here Marabou Storks congregate off Port Bell Road, Kampala

“I tried not to look at the blood and guts around me and looked down – and narrowly avoided stepping on a cow’s brain!” Said Alex the vegetarian. Not the most glamorous of day’s out for us ladies, tiptoeing around pools of dark red blood seeping into Kalerwe’s thick oozing mud…

Vulture Count Kalerwe Abattoir, Kampala

My Nature Uganda friend Roger had painted a grim picture of last year’s annual vulture count – but I couldn’t wait to experience the horror for myself!

Living in Uganda has desensitised me to the horrors of the meat trade. A vegetarian since the age of 13, it was learning about the UK’s concrete and metal ‘factory farms’ that turned me off meat, overnight. In the UK we’re as far removed from the slaughter process as could possibly be (it’s hard to reconcile the surgical cleanliness of the plastic-wrapped portions of meat in the supermarket with the reality of what happens to the animal in the slaughterhouse). Here in Uganda, it’s back to basics: blood, guts and all.

Heaps body parts Kalerwe Abattoir, Kampala

Heaps of (cow) body parts wherever we looked in Kalerwe Abattoir, Kampala – why can’t the Chinese make ornaments and medicines out of this lot and leave Africa’s rhino and elephants alone?

So why were we putting ourselves through this?

Vultures aren’t the world’s prettiest birds – that characteristic bald head helps keep the head clean when feeding on a carcass – but they (and the Marabou Storks) are arguably the most useful, and need to be protected.

Populations of the eleven species of African vulture have declined considerably. Threats vary, but include poisoning, loss of habitat, trapping for food and witchcraft.

Vultures are nature’s most successful scavengers. Known by some as ‘Superman of the bird world,’ vultures can eat Anthrax (without dying) and quickly dispose of diseased carcasses (without catching the disease) – and no other animal will eat their carcass.

In the past decade, hundreds of vultures have been accidentally killed across East Africa after consuming poisoned animals set to kill lions and hyenas which had attacked livestock. Vultures are also intentionally poisoned by poachers because the presence of circling vultures alerts wildlife authorities to the location of poachers’ illegal activities.

Hooded Vulture soaring above Kampala. PHOTO Achilles Byaruhanga

Hooded Vulture soaring above Kampala. PHOTO Achilles Byaruhanga

Three Hooded Vultures, Kampala. Photo Veena Naik

Three Hooded Vultures, Kampala. PHOTO Veena Naik

In a recent incident, 48 vultures were poisoned near the Ishasha River on the Congo border, their bodies found scattered along a path heading back to Queen Elizabeth National Park.

In Kenya, vulture numbers in the Maasai Mara National Reserve have declined by an average of 62% since the 1970s. Vultures have some of the lowest reproductive rates among birds, making them particularly vulnerable. A decade ago none of Kenya’s eight vulture species was on the IUCN Red List of Threatened Species; now 6 out of 8 species are on the Red List, with populations declining at an alarming rate.

Information on Kenyan vultures edited from Summit to save Africa’s vulture populations from extinction on ‘African Raptors‘.

Nature Uganda Vulture Count Kampala

Hammerkop getting in on the act! Huge numbers of Marabou Storks overseeing the fish processing near Nateete, Kampala

So how is the demise of this ugly old bird linked to human health?

Following a decimation of the vulture numbers in India, there’s been an increase in disease transmission among dogs and rats. The subsequent increase in dogs and rabies is blamed for an estimated human health costs of $1.5 billion a year. If vulture numbers continue to decline in Kampala, what might be the impact on the residents of the city?

cow hoofs Kampala

Too hot to trot! Nothing goes to waste here …molokony (cow hoof) is a popular hangover cure

Back at the abattoir, the authorities were suspicious of the muzungu wandering around with a camera – all except this guy: “You take my picture” he said.

worker Kalerwe abattoir

My idea of hell – but just another day at work for this guy

Once beyond the understandably suspicious questions “are you from the Ministry of Health?” people seemed quite interested in what we were doing. Someone offered to feed the birds for us (for a fee). Another guy asked if we could solve the problem of the Marabous shitting on (and therefore destroying) his zinc roof!

At Kyengera, the unmistakable smell of burning flesh led us by the nose down to a shack where a whole cow’s head sat roasting on an open fire. For 500 shillings (the cost of two chapatis) I was invited to take a photo – or (just for laughs!) pose with the man stoking the fire and roasting the head – somehow that just seemed one step too far.

Aren’t you glad I didn’t take that last photo?

The species: in order of population size, Uganda has the following Vultures: White-backed, Hooded, Ruppell’s, Palm Nut, Lappet-faced, White-headed and Egyptian.

To learn more about the Kampala vulture counts, and other activities, visit the Nature Uganda web site.

If you like birds, check out the muzungu‘s Birds page for lots more Ugandan birding stories!

Look up! Urban birding Kampala-style

The view from Long Crested Towers, Kampala

Kampala is a dusty, polluted city of 2 million inhabitants. The crowded industrial area slap bang in the centre of town, sits cheek by jowl with a slum of 100,000 people and a creaking and inadequate sewage system pours filth into nearby Lake Victoria. Drainage channels (for the country’s voluminous heavy rains) are the preferred waste disposal solution for many a Kampala household.

Originally on seven hills, the capital’s urban sprawl now covers at least three times that many hills now, the city’s population nurtured by rapid and increased urbanisation and the world’s 3rd highest birth rate.

But for all this, Kampala is still a birder’s dream with over 300 species. Forest birds, such as Black and White Casqued Hornbills, nest in a few remaining large trees in the city environs and Palmnut Vultures nest overlooking the golf course in the middle of the city.

Hammerkops often perch on the neighbour's roof. Here's one on the edge of Lake Victoria, a few km away
Hammerkops often perch on the neighbour’s roof. Here’s one on the edge of Lake Victoria, just a few km away. Image Achilles Byaruhanga, Nature Uganda

I work in the centre of the capital and live in Bukasa, just 4 miles outside town – or less, as the Pied Crow flies. To many Kampalans, I may as well live in De Bush!

You can set your watch by the sound of the early morning birdsong in Uganda, more or less constant throughout the year, thanks to the country’s position on the Equator. The Woodland Kingfisher wakes me at 5.30 am sharp, very sharp; its shrill call forces my head off the pillow.

Great and Long Tailed Cormorants, Cattle and Little Egrets, Marabou Storks and Pink Backed Pelicans fly south towards the lake from their roosting site atop a statuesque hardwood Mvule tree in the middle of Kyangoga slum. They’re joined by the occasional Grey-Crowned Crane, Uganda’s most elegant national symbol. Usually seen in pairs, these Cranes mate for life, a commitment which, irony of all ironies, makes their eggs highly prized as wedding gifts – or so the urban myth goes. The Crane is further highly threatened due to destruction of its wetland habitat for conversion to farmland and agriculture (Uganda is a predominantly subsistence economy).

Iridescent Ruppell’s Starlings chuckle and scold from atop the water tank, swooping down to the garden tap to drink. Northern Grey-headed Sparrows pick at the crumbs left by the dogs and Red-billed firefinches bob in and out of the Bougainvillea. The hullaballo of a giant Eastern Grey Plantain Eater makes me look up as we pass under the electricity wire by the gate.

An early morning stroll with the dogs takes me along dusty marram roads towards Lake Victoria, a sea of Papyrus (and the inevitable construction sites) separating us from the men in dugout canoes fishing for Tilapia.

Kampala is a huge building site. Banana plantations and cassava plots metamorphose overnight. Over the past three years, we’ve frequently had to double back on ourselves when confronted by yet another new fence, a wall or a pile of freshly-baked red bricks.

And yet, turn a corner, and you’re back in the village, with ducks at your feet and a herd of cows slowly ambling past you.

The dogs scamper through the rough bush next to the house, inevitably picking up ticks left by grazing livestock. Cows are a status symbol in Uganda; the more you own, the greater respect you command. The dogs’ ticks can balloon to juicy fat currants before I notice them (where are the Oxpeckers when you need them?)

An African Open-Billed Stork, picking over the freshly hoed earth for snails, flies off at the sight of the dogs. A pair of Hadada Ibis cackle comically overhead – (no chance of a lie-in once these guys land on your roof).

A White-browed Coucal watches us from its perch on a termite mound.

The fabulous Woodland Kingfisher, Kampala
The fabulous Woodland Kingfisher, Kampala – beautiful but noisy! Image Achilles Byaruhanga, Nature Uganda

Further down the track, en route to Port Bell fish landing site on Lake Victoria, we watch Hooded Vultures and Marabou Storks jostle for pickings amongst a big pile of fresh slaughtered pig heads at the open-air abattoir next to the railway track. The enormous Marabou Stork has a wing span of over two metres and is a frequent flier over Kampala. They can clean up faster than the City council: every day an estimated 10,000 of these scavengers (the largest known colony in the world) clean up 1-2 tons of the capital’s rubbish.

As the day warms up, we double back across the scrub, home to Long Crested Towers.*

A Long-Crested Eagle watched me from a telegraph post when I first viewed my new house
A Long-Crested Eagle watched me from a telegraph post when I first viewed my new house – I took it as a lucky omen. Image Achilles Byaruhanga, Nature Uganda

A Long-Crested Eagle watched me from a telegraph post when I first viewed my new house; I took it as a good sign. No looking back  – only up 😉

*With a nod to one of my conservation heros, Gerald Durrell.

This post was originally written for David Lindo, the Urban Birder. He says “It’s estimated that by 2050 at least 75% of humankind will be living in cities. Many of us never leave our city environments. But within our sprawling cities there is birdlife to be found — sometimes in surprising abundance. If we open our eyes, look up and listen it will make itself known to us. What we have to do is learn how to appreciate the nature on our doorsteps and then we will fully understand the importance of worldwide conservation.”

David has a few Urban Birding tips to get you started:

  • Look up
  • Ignore people — see buildings as cliffs and mountainsides
  • Have as your mantra: “Anything can turn up anywhere at any time”
  • Enjoy yourself!

Thanks David for the inspiration and the words of encouragement!

If you like birds, check out the muzungu‘s Birds page for lots more Ugandan birding stories!

How to feed a baby elephant

Last week I told you the tragic story about the increase in elephant poaching and how Baby Charles came to UWEC. But despite his sad start in life, he’s a very happy little elephant, bringing heaps of fun to anyone who gets a chance to see him – as we did on our elephant encounter.

As you can imagine, feeding baby elephant Charlie is not cheap. He drinks his way through 15 litres of milk a day, a mixture of human baby formula milk (SMA) and fresh diary UHT milk (less the cream), a diet he will have for the next two years.

Just saying hello!

Just saying hello! Like any baby, he wants to experience the new world open-mouthed!

A few fun facts about Charles:

• He loves bathing! Every day!

• He loves drinking water: he can drink up to 10 litres when thirsty! A fully grown elephant can drink a staggering 225 litres in one day.

• He likes running around and playing with his keeper Bruce, between feeds and naps

• He sleeps in a house – just like you and me!

Charles is unlikely to live back in the wild now, although relocation to a protected reserve is possible. He’s happy with his human companions and carers and loves running around and playing (he cries loudly if he is left on his own!) He has become ‘habituated’ (used) to human contact which, back in the park, could make him an easy target for poachers. Last year Mweya’s famous elephant Maria was poisoned, showing that animosity towards elephants is commonplace. Maria was a habituated elephant too, see R.I.P. Mary – elephant entertainer extraordinaire

Would you like to meet baby Charles?

 

You don't have to be a kid to enjoy meeting Charlie the baby elephant!

You don’t have to be a kid to enjoy meeting Charlie the baby elephant! Photo taken a few months ago.

Uganda Wildlife Education Centre (formerly known as Entebbe Zoo) look set to turn tragedy to success, for this little elephant Charlie is sure to become a great ambassador for his species. Hundreds of primary school children visit UWEC every day. They now have the chance to see an elephant, the closest most Ugandans will ever get to see this magnificent animal.

A personal meeting with Charles is the latest addition to the brilliant ‘Behind the scenes’ tour at UWEC. For $50 per person you will be taken around the whole zoo, accompanied by a very knowledgeable guide, for approximately 2 – 3 hours. Morning visitors have a chance to actually feed the hoofed animals such as giraffe, rhino and waterbuck. Afternoon visitors may see and participate in feeding the Big Cats: Lion, Leopard and Serval cat – up close. If there are specific feedings you wish to see, please check timings when you book.

All it took was a phone call the day before we wanted to visit to see the zoo’s latest – and most famous – resident, Hamukungu Charles. It’s the chance of a lifetime, to come up close and actually touch this magnificent animal. Even in miniature, there’s something very special about elephants. Charles loves company will be very excited to meet you!

Tours are available 7 days a week and there is a 10% discount for group bookings. To visit Charles or donate milk to feed him, contact UWEC on 0414 320 520 or 0414 320 169. UWEC is open every day from 8 am till 6 pm.

Do you want to go gorilla trekking in Rwanda?

“Welcome to your home for the next few days” said Eunice, as we sat down for afternoon tea and gorilla trekking travel advice at the outdoor reception of Le Bambou Gorilla Resort, Kinigi in Rwanda.

After 12 hours on the bus, 10 hours from Kampala to Kigali and another 2 hours onto Kinigi, we were delighted to be able to stretch our legs. (I think next time I’ll fly!)

A troupe of dancers from the local village welcomed us with singing and dancing and we watched as passers-by gathered in a neighbouring field to enjoy the singing. What a beautiful way to start our stay. The music stayed with me as we were shown to our private cabin, set among pretty flower gardens. Made of solid volcanic rock, the cabins give you a feeling of total seclusion from the outside world. It felt like home right away, even more so when at dusk a man appeared at our door, his arms laden with firewood, to light a fire for us. It was cold up in the mountains. (Staying on the edge of Volcanoes National Park should have been a clue to the weather, I guess!)

rwanda gorilla trekking travel advice
The late afternoon sun cast long shadows across the tarmac road as we approached Le Bambou Gorilla Village from Musanze (Ruhengeri), Rwanda. We fell in love with the grey outline of the volcanic peaks of Volcanoes National Park

What’s on the breakfast menu?

We ate well at Le Bambou Gorilla! Breakfast comprised freshly fried samosas, delicious omelettes and the tastiest yellow yolked eggs, the best passionfruit juice we’d ever tasted, local honey (crystallised in the cool mountain air), tea or coffee (Rwandese of course!) and more fabulous fresh fruit. There was, of course, the ubiquitous Blueband margarine! – the favourite spread on many an East African breakfast table.

How much is gorilla trekking in Rwanda?

Many people only know Kinigi or Musanze for gorilla trekking, but there’s a variety of ways to spend your time. Enjoying the peace and the wonderful views should not be underestimated!

Here are the current prices to track gorillas in Rwanda. We didn’t trek the gorillas that week-end – although I have since. Trekking the gorillas in Rwanda is quite a different experience to Diary of a Muzungu’s gorilla trekking in Uganda – but both were superb!

If you need advice on buying Rwanda gorilla permits, please contact the Muzungu.

What tourist activities are there in Kinigi area of Rwanda?

The local area, formerly known as Ruhengeri, is best known for being the Rwandan access point to see the Mountain Gorillas and so, on our first morning, we hitched a lift down to the entrance to Volcanoes National Park, just for a nose. Here you can visit the site of Kwita Izina the annual Gorilla Naming Ceremony, see beautiful bamboo huts, read more about the life of the Mountain Gorilla and visit a good quality craft shop, whose profits all benefit the local community. I came back to Kampala laden with baskets and woven pots!

rwanda gorilla trekking travel advice
Spot the difference? Muzungu hanging out with relatives – mural at Le Bambou Gorilla
  • The Kinigi park entrance is also departure point for walking and hiking tours of the imposing Sabyinyo volcanic peak
  • ‘Birding’ – or birdwatching
  • The grave of world-famous primatologist Dian Fossey is within walking distance.
  • Gisenyi, on the shore of Lake Kivu, is two hour’s drive away and transport can be arranged through Le Bambou. Lake Kivu is the largest of Rwanda’s lakes and offers a wide range of beach and water sports.

  • Boys in Musanze market. rwanda gorilla trekking travel advice
    Boys in Musanze market, Rwanda, are more reserved than Ugandan kids – but still always happy to have their photo taken!
    • To really get a feel for a place, a visit to the local market is an absolute must. As our hosts toured Musanze market doing their weekly shop, we caused quite a stir by trying the Yellow Passionfruit and the Tree Tomatoes (a cross between Passion fruit and Pomegranate) and sharing our fresh popcorn with the local kids.
    • Cultural village and village walk.
    • Musanze Caves, on the outskirts of Musanze town (not far from Kinigi) are a relatively new attraction, now open to tourists. Guided tours are available.

    Any Rwanda travel tips to share?

    • The Rwandese speak Kinyarwanda, a Bantu language similar to those of Western Uganda and Burundi. Although English is now the official ‘lingua franca’ language, many people still only speak French – or speak neither English nor French! Travel with a phrase book or a local guide if you can.
    • Beware the Akabanga chilli oil! The small plastic bottle – on every dining table – of what looks like eyedrops is in fact a noxious equivalent of West Indian scotch bonnet sauce. Seek directions before use!
    • Tourist visas: British passport holders (like me) have to purchase an entry visa. Boo. Luckily, Rwandese entry visas can be purchased on arrival. You can also buy them online before traveling.

    Travel tips: how do you travel from Uganda to Kinigi, Rwanda?

    • Public transport is available virtually all the way to the lodge. (We traveled from Kampala, through Kigali). It’s easy, safe and cheap.
    • Although many people would prefer to drive or fly, if you’re on a budget – or simply want to have a more African experience – a selection of bus services run several times a day between Kampala to Kigali. Smaller buses then go north to Musanze, from where you can take a car or ‘moto’ motorbike taxi onto Le Bambou.
    • We chose to travel from Kampala with Jaguar Executive Coaches, recommended to us by Ugandans who have made the trip many times. The buses were clean, on time, comfortable (enough) and we and our luggage all arrived intact, both legs of the trip.

    Le Bambou Gorilla Village, Kinigi, Rwanda is a small independent lodge owned by Jacky Gatera and Emmanuel Mujawayzu.

    DISCLOSURE: This blog is based on my personal experience. I was lucky enough to be given a free night’s stay in return for this blog post. For more information, read the Muzungu’s Terms and Conditions. This is an edited version of a lodge review I wrote for The Eye Magazine Rwanda.

    Have you been gorilla trekking in Rwanda? What are your Rwanda travel tips?

    Down in the slum, after the rain

    A glimpse of life in Namuwongo ‘go down’ along Kampala’s railway track

    Marabou Storks railway Kampala. Photo Achilles Byaruhanga

    Marabou Storks along the railway line in Kampala. Photo Achilles Byaruhanga, www.NatureUganda.org

    The air is damp and heavy, the air is cool and last week’s fine, dusty marram earth is compacted beneath our feet. Limbs have been torn off the Pawpaw tree the other side of the compound wall and a single giant leaf, over four metres long, has been torn off the Palm tree. It lies there on the grass looking pathetic, no longer the majestic bough waving in the breeze.

    It’s rained hard for the last two days. It’s a blessed relief for us all, although Baldrick’s been curled up in a tight ball on the doormat; he lives outside and the cold has got into his bones. He thinks nothing of stretching out in the sun in the heat of the day for hours: my Ugandan dog.

    I decide to take advantage of the cool morning to go for a long walk and we take the short route down the path onto the railway line. It’s a sea of mud and empty cavera carrier bags. Water runs freely and collects in greenish grey puddles suffocated with plastic rubbish. The ducks are caked in mud and oil and the giant Marabou Storks peer down at us from atop the rubbish dumps.

    I pick my way up and down the smooth marram pathway that winds its way between the makeshift shacks and public latrines. Here, all life happens out in the open, either side of the path: women deep fry cassava in big open woks just a foot from the main path. Children sit on dirty wooden benches next to open charcoal stoves, surrounded by plastic basins of washing-up, giant beaten aluminium pots of beans and converted oil drums brewing god knows what.

    A man wants me to buy smoked dried fish.

    “Salina ssente” I say – “I don’t have any money” – unwilling to open my bag in an area I don’t know and glad I won’t have to buy these fish that are covered in flies.

    Two women hold a large piece of tripe over a bucket, one of them sawing it into two pieces. Muddy ‘Irish’ potatoes spill out of a sack onto the piles of black shiny charcoal.

    To see a muzungu down in the slum must be quite unusual and I don’t hear the same number of greetings I get elsewhere. When I do speak, I’m aware many people don’t speak Luganda; many are refugees from northern Uganda or even further afield, South Sudan.

    Wherever they’re from, the children still speak as one of course: “muzungu-how-are-you?” comes the chorus.

    This is one of many walks that have taken me through the slum. It’s as fascinating as it is grim.

    I used to live a stone’s throw away from Namuwongo ‘go down.’ The noise from the shanty town along the railway tracks was a constant backdrop to my life. I miss it. Here’s more about the terrible effects of  the heavy rains on life in the slum

    I was embarrassed recently to dispose my rubbish in Namuwongo slum.

    Imagine: elephants swimming to an island!

    Last week I had an elephant encounter  at Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe.

    Baby elephant Charles at five months old

    Baby elephant Charles loves to play football! Here he is at five months old

    When you first encounter this baby elephant Charlie, thoughts of murder are far from your mind.

    Originally from Queen Elizabeth National Park, Charles was brought to UWEC (a.k.a. the zoo) at the tender age of three weeks old, a victim of poachers that tragically saw him orphaned and then abandoned.

    Fishermen of Hamukungu fishing village found baby Charles  abandoned on the shores of an island on Lake George, trying to swim. Since there were no other elephants nearby, and the baby was about to drown, the rescuers loaded Charles into their wooden dugout canoe and paddled him back to Hamukungu.

    Can you imagine – seeing a baby elephant being paddled across the lake!

    The fishermen were compensated for their quick-thinking by the Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and fisherman Charles was delighted for the elephant to be named after him!

    Two days after the dramatic marine rescue, the carcass of an adult male elephant with six bullet wounds to the head and thoracic regions (indicative of poachers) was found submerged, next to the same island. It’s suspected that ivory poachers may have scared the elephant family away, leaving behind the newborn baby.

    On arrival at UWEC a week later, baby Charles was weak, exhausted, and extremely thirsty. He was believed to be about a week old, as the umbilical cord was still attached. He did not know how to suckle; neither did he know the taste of milk.

    Bull elephant along the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park

    Bull elephant feeding along the Kazinga Channel. Can you spot the hippo?

    Organisations like the Uganda Conservation Foundation are working hard with UWA to stop poaching, remind local people of  the penalties for poaching and the benefits of community conservation. UCF is building the capacity of UWA to work on the waterways of Queen Elizabeth by providing boats, professional marine ranger training and ranger accommodation posts. Uganda’s National Parks were once teeming with wildlife but the politically unstable years of the 1970s and 80s killed off all the rhino and Queen Elizabeth’s elephant population dropped by approximately 80%. The population has been slowly recovering but tragically, the international trade in ivory is undergoing an unprecedented increase. At least 13 Ugandan elephants were killed for ivory in 2011 and they desperately need more protection.

    To visit Charles or donate milk to feed him, contact UWEC on 0414 320 520 or 0414 320 169. UWEC is open every day from 8 am till 6 pm. You can also find UWEC on Facebook.

    So how do you feed a baby elephant? 

    Can you play the Xylophone?

    Check out the guys playing the giant xylophone at Kikorongo!

    “Community tourism” bundles up a diverse range of activities – and can be great fun! – as a lucky group of us found out on a three-day UCOTA / Pearls of Uganda trip in and around Queen Elizabeth National Park recently.

    Community tourism offers you the chance to find out first-hand what it’s like to farm your land (with the constant threat from hungry elephants) or to farm salt as people have done for 10,000 years on a crater lake (not a job for the squeamish).

    Harvesting salt in Lake Katwe - and I complain about my job sometimes?

    Harvesting salt in Lake Katwe – and I complain about my job sometimes? A full post about this incredibly tough lifestyle to follow …

    Watch a clip of the Women’s Dance Group at Kikorongo, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Uganda

    After the dance display at Kikorongo, I got a chance to try my hand at playing the enormous wooden xylophone. Admittedly, I was pretty rubbish.

    Honey never tasted so good!

    Honey never tasted so good!

    Like bees around the proverbial pot of honey, we couldn’t wait to dive into the fresh honeycomb at the BBC (Bunyangabu Beekeeping Cooperative). We wolfed down big dessertspoons of it, spitting out the waxy residue “like chewing gum.” The BBC is a training centre for would-be beekeepers. They also process and sell the finished products (honey, candles and Propolis).

    Community tourism is a learning experience too. Did you know you can wash your clothes with the flesh of a pawpaw? Or that locally grown flowers can produce red, green, yellow, orange, blue, maroon and brown colour dyes?

    Rubona Basket Weavers' Association

    Cissy poses amongst the multicoloured raffia – used to weave baskets at Rubona Basket Weavers’ Assoc

    At the Foundation for Youth Development Agro-Tour in Kichwamba, the very knowledgable Benjamin pointed out the Trees of the Gods and the medicinal uses of the various plants and trees, as he took us all on a walk through the banana plantation.

    Did you know that the Neem tree can treat an astounding 135 diseases? (I wish I had one in my compound – they even deter mosquitoes and insects!) Tawny Prinia, Northern Bishop and African Blue Flycatchers were a few of the birds we saw (apparently there are 250 species along Kyambura escarpment).

    At the cave of the God of the Hunters, Kichwamba

    A serious moment! At the cave of the God of the Hunters, Kichwamba. Note the pile of elephant dung!

    Midway on our walk, we paused to pay our respects to the God of the Hunters at the cave, as Benjamin talked about hunting rituals and the importance of totems to conservation.

    Time was too short to cut herbs and bathe in the river running through the cave below the wonderful Nyanz’ibiri ‘Between Two Lakes’ Community Eco-campsite  – next time! – and perhaps then Felex, I really will sleep in the beautiful Banyaruguru hut!

    A very frumpy-looking Muzungu checking out the traditional accommodation option

    A very frumpy-looking Muzungu checking out the traditional accommodation option (hey we’d been on the road 3 days, ok?!)

    To find out more about these and many other fascinating days out, visit the UCOTA / Pearls of Uganda web sites or contact the Muzungu for Uganda travel ideas.

    Have you visited any of the Pearls of Uganda community tourism projects? Which ones would you recommend?

     

    An elephant encounter!

    We were all excited at the thought of seeing – and touching – a baby elephant. As we arrived, this jolly little creature, with his long, thick eyelashes came trotting along behind his keeper and soul mate Bruce, his carer at Uganda Wildlife Education Centre in Entebbe.

    Charlie the elephant and Bruce his keeper

    These two are inseparable! Charlie the elephant and Bruce his keeper

    These two have become inseparable. They even sleep together (in a house of course!)

    I’d made the mistake of wearing open toed sandals for the day, so I was a bit wary of getting too close to him. In his enthusiasm to sniff everyone with his curly trunk, he trod on the toes of one of the teenage girls in our group – luckily she had trainers on. He may be a baby but he already weighs 153kg!

    The Muzungu meets the elephant

    A right couple of Charlies - Charlie the Muzungu meets Charlie the elephant

    You can almost cuddle Charles, he’s so small. He’s a cute little thing – for now! A mere 100 to 120 kg when born, an elephant will weigh an incredible 2,000 to 3,000 kg when fully grown.

    I worked in conservation in Uganda for 2 ½ years, written elephant reports, elephant stories and an elephant obituary but this was my first time to come up close with the famous Loxodonta Africana.

    To visit Charles or donate milk to feed him, contact UWEC on 0414 320 520 or 0414 320 169. UWEC is open every day from 8 am till 6 pm.

    Charles was not born in captivity. Next, read the tragic story behind this elephant-sized bundle of fun… Imagine: elephants swimming to an island!

    #UgandaisnotSpain – first published in 2012

    #UgandaisnotSpain

    Er … we knew that.

    The American showman, entertainer and sometime scam artist, Phineas Taylor Barnum (1810 – 1891) was remembered for founding his famous circus and for a number of well-known sayings, such as “there’s no such thing as bad publicity.”

    UgandaisnotSpain

    American showman and sometime trickster PT Barnum is famous for saying “There’s no such thing as bad publicity”

    I wonder what PT Barnum would have made of this week’s #UgandaisnotSpain international spat? [June 2012].

    Not to miss out on an opportunity, Ugandans (the media and the private sector at least) had a field day this week with #UgandaisnotSpain on Twitter.

    Who started the #SpainisnotUganda and #UgandaisnotSpain Twitter debate?

    Spanish Prime Minister Rajoy sent a text to his finance minister during negotiations of a bailout for Spanish banks. The text read: “We’re the number four power in Europe. Spain is not Uganda.

    “Spain is not Uganda!” we retorted with er, no actually, Uganda is not Spain.

    Frankly it’s all academic to me.

    Spain may be a wealthy country – but it has huge debt.

    Uganda has (comparatively) high growth –  but equally huge deficits in terms of infrastructure and skills.

    For a fascinating snapshot of Ugandan society (tourists look away now), read this excellent article Yes, Uganda is not Spain, but what do we see when we look in the mirror? from this week’s Daily Monitor newspaper. Not all the comments make sense to me! But debate is alive and well in UG.

    If you prefer figures and stats, read this article ‘Even With Its Loads of Problems, Spain Indeed Is Not Uganda.’

    UgandaisnotSpain

    Don’t you love these beautiful hand drawn posters for PT Barnum’s Greatest Show on Earth?

    Two years later, at the Africa Travel Association (ATA) Congress in Kampala, President Yoweri Museveni reignited the Uganda vs Spain debate. Museveni is a great speaker, often funny (not always intentionally), but he’s no fool. Jokes aside, he had a serious message. Opening the annual week-long ATA Congress, the President of Uganda told the audience that whenever he watches international weather on TV, the presenter shows us that “They’re roasting in Riyadh and freezing in Sweden…”

    “Don’t go to Spain, it’s too hot” the President said “come to Uganda instead.”

    UgandaisnotSpain

    At the Africa Travel Association Congress in Kampala, President Yoweri Museveni reignited the #UgandaisnotSpain debate

    The Guardian newspaper picked up Museveni’s comments and asked Uganda or Spain: where would you prefer to go on holiday? – poll of Guardian UK readers – at which point UOT (Ugandans on Twitter) – and Facebook too – got busy (busier than our Spanish counterparts at least!)

    UgandaisnotSpain

    Uganda vs Spain – poll on the UK’s Guardian newspaper website. And Uganda won!

    And here’s some more from President Museveni on the subject: Uganda is a better holiday destination than Spain, president says

    And how about you – where would you prefer to go on holiday? Uganda or Spain?

    Bukasa stand-off, doggy style

    Morning walks with Baldrick used to be so fun and easy.

    Percy the puppy is now the same size – but with a brain the size of a pea. It’s not just that he’s a puppy, I’m sure he’s a bit dim.

    My puppy Percy - recycled Ugandan street dog
    Percy! Hell he’s cute! My puppy Percy – recycled Ugandan street dog

    Half kangaroo / half dog, Percy bounces up towards me every time I see him. I love his enthusiasm but his boundless energy wears me out. This nervous little puppy watches my every move, unlike Balders, who would happily let strangers climb over him as they enter the house. He would hardly lift his head.

    That’s all changed now of course.

    With the appearance of a rival, Baldrick feels the need to assert himself on a regular basis. Top Dog is now a good guard dog too – he’s finally earning his keep! Luckily he has a dignified bark (not like that annoying thing in the compound opposite that barks in the middle of the night, every night).

    I can trust Baldrick. I know that if he chases a chicken or a goat, he will stop short of trying to kill it. He does a U-turn right at the last second, with a cheeky look on his face, as the goat or chicken leaps / squawks into the air. With Percy, it’s a different matter; you can tell that ‘mouth on legs’ won’t stop running; the needle-sharp teeth will do their damage. (Lord knows he gets through anything we leave lying around the compound: last week he ate my lovely tyre cover! Last night he chewed a big hole in the brand new dog blanket!)

    Baldrick and Percy enjoy the long grass
    Baldrick and Percy – now known as “the bookends” –  enjoy the long grass

    I have a problem with my hands, so the last thing I want on my relaxing morning walk is to have them pulled out of their sockets by an overexcited puppy straining at the leash.

    As we turn a corner close to Lake Victoria, we see a herd of long-horned Ankole cattle slowly walking towards us, accompanied by a motley bunch of yapping dogs, teeth barred. Baldrick is off the lead, jumping and playing. Everybody’s a new friend to this cool dog.

    But as the cattle and dogs come closer, I realise there’s no way we’re going to pass the herd without a fight, so I back off. (Caesar Milan would not approve; I’ve given off the wrong message, giving up my space to the approaching dogs) but Percy whines and fusses and yanks hard on the leash. It feel like my fingers are being cut off by the cheesewire-like thread of the nylon leash. (I’ve taken to buying the cheapest leashes I can; Percy’s sliced through four already).

    We backtrack a few feet, I call Baldrick over and we stand aside while the herd and pack of four overprotective dogs carry on down the path behind us.

    View of Lake Victoria from Bukasa, a few kilometres south of Kampala City
    View of Lake Victoria from Bukasa, a few kilometres south of Kampala City

    The dogs of Bukasa are out in full force today. There’s another one watching us at the end of a narrow road. I’m not turning back now though. He’s a handsome devil, a Doberman with beautifully shaped ears, erect and alert as he sees us approach. He stakes his claim in the middle of the dirt road.

    Two workmen watch us and call out to the dog, beckoning him to go back inside the building site. He doesn’t want to listen but eventually disappears from view.

    Me and the boys walk by, Baldrick minding his own business, Percy whining again. As we turn the corner, I hear the tell-tale patter of a dog running up behind us, and three men shouting:

    “Kivu!”

    “Kivu!”

    “Kivu!”

    The Doberman pulls up short at the boundary of his territory and I turn to wave the workmen a relieved thank you. Phew!

    Dogs have been a big part of my life in Uganda. Here are some of my favourite stories:

    Bye Bye Bujagali Falls …

    The final day Grade 5 white water rafting at Bujagali Falls

    rafting Bujagali Falls

    Rafting Bujagali Falls – back in the days before Bujagali Dam

    Life jackets, helmets and wooden paddles were dished out to us before we trotted down to the River Nile to meet our guides in a day of brilliant sunshine. I stayed close to my guide, designer-dreadlocked* Nathan, who promised to keep an eye on me.

    Our safety training and practice session behind us, we took the first rapid gently. I felt like a little kid, just loving every moment of it.  The next rapid took us all by surprise – it was big! Our raft flipped over and I was thrown out of the raft like popcorn. Paul stuck out his paddle for me to grab onto and reeled me in while I splutter-giggled sincere words of thanks.  A kayaker appeared and told us to hold on to his kayak as we were delivered through the water back to our raft.  Nathan grabbed my jacket and hauled me up and into the raft – he was so strong he flew me high into the air causing hysterical laughter among our team – but we were all back together, everyone grinning with excitement. Nathan told us to grab our paddles, sit back on the edge of the raft and resume paddling…

    Final morning white water rafting Bujagali Falls

    Final morning white water rafting Bujagali Falls. View from the NRE campsite

    The guides were psyching everyone up for the next rapid – and we were expecting to flip over again. For some reason, I really, really wanted us to!

    We two girls yelled “We DON’T want to flip…” while the rest of the team sat in silent contemplation of our last immersion.  Then the girls responded to the silence “…but we don’t want the calm side of the river either!”

    And off we paddled as hard as we could, determined not to lose the raft again, whilst fighting the automatic urge to close my eyes in the spray.  I didn’t want to miss a thing.  We were being thrown around so violently, tossed in all directions.

    Suddenly it was calm.

    We all turned to see Nathan do a back somersault into the water and we all fell about laughing with exhilaration and relief.  We looked back and watched the next raft take the rapid – I couldn’t believe that had been us bursting through all that white water just a minute beforehand – it looked absolutely terrifying but I just wanted to do it all over again!

    I LOVED it.

    white water rafting Bujagali

    we were all back in the raft together, everyone grinning with excitement

    Excitement overcame the apprehension and I couldn’t stop grinning the whole way through!

    NOTE:

    This section of the River Nile is now submerged under Lake Bujagali, thanks to Bujagali going online. We were mostly oblivious to the finality of the day; we were too absorbed with trying to keep afloat!

    Story by rafting partners-in crime and Uganda Conservation colleagues Julia Lloyd and Andrew Roberts.

    *No rasta jokes please!