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Pig on a boda

There’s nothing like waking in your own bed except that I lift my head off the pillow and felt violently sick. The sensation carries on throughout the day. Looking up makes me feel woozy and I almost fall over, more than once. I blame the potholed road for upsetting my sense of balance.

I slept early. The drive from Kampala took its toll on me this week. Large sections of the road to Fort Portal are being repaired and we drove in the heat of the day. The journey passes quickly if you chat but my friend’s thoughts were elsewhere.

The journey’s highlight was the sunset boda boda ride through Kiko tea plantation before Fort Portal. It’s another world in there: the lurid bright green of the tea bushes contrasts with the winding dusty roads, (we took more than one wrong turning) but the cut through Kiko got us through Kibale Forest before darkness fell. Baboons were still at their vigil on either side of the road. Forest raindrops caught us as we sloped down the steep slippery track towards my home at Sunbird Hill.

tea plantation. Kibale Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu blog
tea plantation between Kibale Forest and Fort Portal Uganda. PHOTO Diary of a Muzungu blog

Waiting for my boda at the Kiko turn-off, I watched three cows amble towards the busy main road. A young man threw a stone at one. It turned in the other direction. He picked up a branch and ran towards them. It was a comical sight to watch him sprinting after the cows, his white gumboots flashing as he lifted one leg after the other! After hundred metres, the cows now safely away from the main road, he turned to walk back to the laughing boda drivers.

A third boda boda pulled up with three individuals on it, one of them being a tightly trussed-up pig! My heart went out to this poor little piggy yet I admired the deft way the animal was attached to the boda. (It’s amazing what you can do with a bit of string if you put your mind to it!)

Pig on a boda. PHOTO by me Charlotte Beauvoisin

I had not wanted to travel far from my home on the edge of Kibale Forest, but work commitments beckoned. I felt I put life on hold by leaving so soon… and how long am I back here for this time?

Back home, as the kids unpacked sacks of beans and posho from the vehicle, Hope said “Auntie Charlotte, I have a surprise for you” as she passed me a refrigerated plastic container. I removed the lid, intrigued. Was it edible?

MAWAY!

“I assume it’s dead… ?”

The Rhinoceros Viper is a beautiful but venomous beast. I’m not sure how this specimen has been donated to our collection but it’s beautifully preserved and will make fascinating conversations for visitors and guides at Sunbird Hill.

Whenever we find reptilian roadkill, we slam on the brakes and pick up the remains. Our freezer is full of snakes (and beetles)!

Do you like my stories? Tell me what you think!

Chimp Empire – Kibale’s chimpanzees star on Netflix!

Chimp Empire was filmed in Ngogo, Kibale Forest “the primate capital of the world,” Western Uganda

Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know that I am “blogger in residence” at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest, western Uganda, famous for its population of several hundred – often vocal – chimpanzees. (Did you know I can lie in bed hearing the chimps call?)

Netflix’ latest release is Chimp Empire, set in Ngogo, a section of Kibale National Park that is dedicated to research and monitoring of our great ape cousins. The trailer is thrilling! PANT HOOTS and congratulations to everyone involved in this phenomenal Netflix production. Chimp Empire charts two years in the lives of dozens of Kibale Forest’s chimps. (I doubt any Hollywood blockbuster can contain more drama than the real lives of our Closest Cousins!)

Chimp Empire Netflix documentary. Ngogo, Kibale Forest, Uganda 2023
Chimp Empire Netflix documentary filmed in Ngogo, Kibale Forest, Uganda released 2023

Known as “our closest relative” humans and chimpanzees share almost the same DNA. Our similarities are evidenced in chimps’ complex relationships, emotions, differing personalities, advanced forms of communication, the ability to use tools, and so much more. They are beautiful, beguiling and hilarious too!

Chimp Empire Netflix trailer. Ngogo, Kibale Forest, Uganda

I never fail to get excited when we hear chimpanzees. Watch the trailer and you’ll understand why! These creatures are fascinating in their own right, but their close link to us makes their appeal even more compelling. Chimp tracking is one of the big draws to Uganda. Kibale National Park isn’t the only protected area where you can view chimps, but it is the best known.

Chimp Empire Netflix trailer. Ngogo, Kibale Forest, Uganda
Chimp Empire on Netflix. Filmed at Ngogo, Kibale Forest, Uganda

“Chimp Empire: Survival is in Our Nature” is a four-part docume;ntary series that was released on April 19 2023. The series was directed by two Academy Award® winners: James Reed, Co-Director of My Octopus Teacher (an unusual and moving film set off the coast of South Africa) and narrated by Winner Mahershala Ali.

What’s it like to track chimps in the wild? Read my personal account of chimp tracking in Kibale Forest or contact one of the tour operators in my Travel Directory.

Ngogo is just a few km from my home at Sunbird Hill.

Celebrate Rwandan culture at the Red Rocks Cultural Festival!

The Red Rocks Cultural Festival is a week-long celebration of traditional Rwandan culture and community conservation that takes place at the end of August / early September every year.

Would you like to learn a few words of Kinyarwanda? Fancy taking part in a cooking demonstration? Do you LOVE dancing? Scroll down for the 2023 programme.

If you’re heading to Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda to track the gorillas or to attend Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony, then make sure you don’t miss the 11th Red Rocks Cultural Festival which takes place in Musanze in Rwanda’s Northern Province.

The 11th edition of the Red Rocks annual cultural festival takes place in Musanze, Rwanda between August 25th and 1st September 2023
The 11th edition of the Red Rocks cultural festival takes place in Musanze, Rwanda between August 25th and 1st September 2023
Red Rocks cultural festival Rwanda 2023
Red Rocks cultural festival Rwanda 2023 programme

Which activities are taking place during the 2023 Red Rocks Cultural Festival?

  • Traditional Rwandan cultural music and dance.
  • Drumming!
  • Exhibition of Rwandan cultural artwork (baskets, table mats, bamboo cups, pottery) and more, made by youth and women cooperatives.
  • Around the campfire: Red Rocks Twataramye (music featuring all types of cultural musical instruments, story-telling, theater and poems).
  • Cooking demonstrations and language workshops.
  • Birdwatching and nature trails.
  • The festival culminates with the Gorilla naming ceremony (Kwita Izina) Kinigi on slopes of Virunga mountains and the “Crazy night of the Gorillas” party at Mukungwa river side, Musanze Town.
  • The programme includes talks, workshops, tree-planting, sports activities and a talent contest!
Red Rocks cultural festival Rwanda 2023. list of community tourism activities.
Red Rocks cultural festival Rwanda 2023. list of community tourism activities

Where is the Cultural Festival taking place? What are the dates for 2023?

Activities will take place next to Volcanoes National Park venue in Kinigi and at the Red Rocks Cultural Center, 8 km from Musanze. In 2023, the Red Rocks Festival will be from August 25th to September 1st.

Is there a cost to take part in the Red Rocks Cultural Festival?

Most activities are FREE OF CHARGE. Since its launch 11 years ago, the Red Rocks Cultural Festival has brought positive gains to communities. The week enhances the connections between tourism, conservation and community development. Be part of it!

Do you have any questions about the Red Rocks Cultural Festival 2023?

If you’re looking for somewhere to stay near Musanze, check out the popular Red Rocks Campsite. I feature Red Rocks in my blog “The land of 1000 – surprises! A solo exploration of Rwanda.”

You can also contact Red Rocks directly on +250 784685285 or info@redrocksrwanda.com and www.redrocksrwanda.com

Eek! from the forest + podcast loading

👋🏼 Hello from my forest nest (as my mum calls it!)

It’s wonderful to be home on the edge of Kibale Forest, reconnecting with nature for a few weeks. Ahhhh, the simple pleasures of dawn chorus (and the snooze button!)

Mind you, I confess: the sight of termites was a rather alarming wake-up call this morning. Eek. We’re loathe to use any chemicals here at Sunbird Hill so let’s hope the application of a few litres of old engine oil will stop their munching of my lovely wooden house… !

Cottage Sunbird Hill Kibale Forest Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin
Home is a wooden cottage at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest in western Uganda. PHOTO CREDIT Charlotte Beauvoisin

I’m back in Kibale Forest after a busy fortnight in Kampala. It was fun to be back in the training room, sharing digital marketing tips with some of the tour operators, lodges and activities that feature in our Travel Directory. My experience co-developing a training curriculum for tour operators (with colleagues from Uganda, South Africa and the Netherlands) has proved very inspiring 🤩

At the same time, we’ve been busy putting the final touches on a brand-new version of Diary of a Muzungu – now live!

Fun fun fun! We took the photo at the top of this page while Bryan Kisembo and I were recording the first podcast episodes here on the edge of Kibale National Park.

I’m thrilled that one of my first podcast interviewees is the British TV sports commentator Rob Walker. I caught up with Rob when he revisited Uganda as a guest of the Uganda Tourism Board. In his interview, he tells us all about his amazing trip: tracking the gorillas in Bwindi, meeting up with his buddy Joshua Cheptegai (and sinking a few Nile Specials!)

British TV sports commentator Rob Walker revisited Uganda in 2023
British TV sports commentator Rob Walker said a resounding YES to every selfie request that came his way! (Photo bombing moment with Natty Dread at the Uganda Media Centre in Kampala)

During the last Olympics, Rob’s spontaneous live commentary touched the hearts of a nation after Ugandan athlete Joshua Cheptegei won a Gold medal.

And what unadulterated joy this win will have triggered back home in Uganda – one of the friendliest, most beautiful countries you could ever wish to visit!

Rob Walker
Rob’s enthusiasm for Uganda knows no limits. His enthusiasm is contagious!

If Diary of a Muzungu has been quiet recently, know that we have bigger and better things planned for you! 😉

The podcast launches soon soon. Register for notification when the podcast goes live.



Latest health measures at Entebbe International Airport, Uganda [UPDATED]

This page is updated regularly and supercedes all previously published Uganda travel information. Here we cover information relating to COVID-19 and Yellow Fever screening at Uganda’s Entebbe International Airport and share updates about the airport itself.

COVID-19 in Uganda – summary

UPDATE June 19th 2023: I have been in/out of Entebbe Airport this month and at no point did I hear the dreaded words “COVID” “PCR” or “certificate” mentioned. HOORAY. I appreciate the blog reader who emailed to share that “unvaccinated travellers are no longer required to have a negative PCR test result for entry into Uganda since 7 March.”

Arrivals at Entebbe Airport

Travelers to Uganda are recommended to check with their airlines regarding COVID-19 requirements or risk being denied boarding. The advice varies from airline to airline.

The arrivals process at Entebbe International Airport follows this order:

  • Sanitise hands [now optional].
  • Have documents checked:
  • Yellow Fever certificate [mine wasn’t checked last week].
  • Pass through immigration. (If you are a tourist, it’s imperative that you apply for your Uganda tourist visa online in advance. Some airlines will not allow you to board without your visa approval letter. ADVICE STILL APPLIES JUNE 2023). I have written extensively about Uganda tourist visas and East Africa Tourist Visas and frequently answer visa-related enquiries.
  • Collect your checked-in luggage.
  • If you need an ATM or Forex (foreign exchange), you can access both by the baggage carousel.
  • Pass luggage (including cabin bags) through scanner.
  • If you are a tourist, you may be met by a representative of Uganda Tourism Board. UTB have a tourist information desk and seating just past the baggage collection area. UTB staff are on hand to make phone calls and order taxis, for example. This service is available for all tourists, 24 hours a day, even for those who travel independently. This initiative is spearheaded by Lilly Ajarova, CEO of the Uganda Tourism Board.
  • Entebbe Airport has free WiFi.
  • Exit airport.
  • Enjoy fabulous Ugandan weather!
Passengers are advised to arrive at Entebbe Airport three hours before departure due to construction works. Uganda Civil Aviation Authority, December 2022
Passengers are advised to arrive at Entebbe Airport three hours before departure due to construction works. Uganda Civil Aviation Authority, December 2022

Departures at Entebbe Airport

  • Travelers departing Entebbe International Airport are required to know, understand, and interpret COVID-19 requirements of both the country they are travelling to and the airline they are flying with.
  • The muzungu adds: I advise having a print-out of your COVID-19 vaccination / negative COVID PCR certificate [as per destination you are heading to]. Print facilities are available at the airport but you will need to allow extra time to go to lower ground floor of arrivals.
new COVID-19 public health measures Uganda December 2022
new COVID-19 public health measures Uganda December 2022

December 2 2022: President Museveni announced new directives recommended by Uganda’s National Taskforce on COVID-19. In summary these state that: everyone who attends “public meetings and gatherings in public places” or who wants “to access government and private offices” must have certificates proving full doses plus a booster or 24 hour PCR negative test for unvaccinated / partially vaccinated; indoor & outdoor mask mandates reinstated [I really don’t know what that means!] and “handshaking and hugging remain prohibited,” apparently.

Entebbe Airport Uganda. COVID-19 testing 2021. Diary of a Muzungu
Entebbe Airport Uganda. COVID-19 testing 2021. Diary of a Muzungu

The muzungu adds: Uganda is famously big on rules and poor on implementation but these are the rules, so be prepared to show your certificate(s) and/or wear a mask.

Yellow Fever in Uganda – summary

Yellow Fever vaccinations are now valid for life, says the World Health Organization, so no boosters are needed. You can just show a copy of your certificate on your phone on arrival at Entebbe. No Yellow Fever certificate? You can have the jab at Entebbe Airport. This costs $40 (however, it takes ten days to take effect so do have the injection before you enter Uganda, if you can).

That said, there’s almost no risk of getting Yellow Fever. There was a handful of suspected infections in early 2022 but the minor outbreak was quickly contained.

Ebola in Uganda – summary

Lastly, on January 11 2023 (42 days without new infections) the World Health Organization has declared “Uganda Ebola outbreak finished.” Thank you to the health workers, Ugandan residents, government and donors who worked so hard to free the country of the virus.

Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!] just process this page.

Are you planning to travel to Uganda soon? Feel free to contact me directly if you have any travel questions.

The Travel Directory has a list of tour operators who can help you plan a trip.

I regularly travel through Entebbe Airport. I write about my experience at arrivals and about the check-in experience at Entebbe Airport, both in 2021. However, as stated above, this page supercedes all previously published Uganda travel information.

Clear? Confused? Just send me a message.

Tanzania

The Muzungu’s top reasons to travel to Tanzania, the ‘soul of Africa’

Serena Inn, Stone Town, Zanzibar. Diary of a Muzungu, Swahili
This is why I travel… to sit at a table overlooking the beach at the Serena Inn, Stone Town, Zanzibar. Want a glass of mimosa? “You just have to ask.” Fresh frangipani flowers, custard apple juice, mimosa sparkling wine cocktail and ‘madafu’ coconut juice decorate the Diary of a Muzungu, Swahili-style!

It’s taken me a long time to visit Tanzania. There’s so much that is familiarly East African, yet so many charming delights that are uniquely Tanzanian!

1. Tanzania has 14 National Parks, 370 mammal species and over 1000 birds.

2. Overdose on wildlife viewing at Ngorongoro Crater. Experience the Great Migration on the Serengeti Tours” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow”>Serengeti, one of the ‘Seven Natural Wonders of Africa’ – watch it from a hot air balloon!

3. Tanzania is the base for hiking Mount Kilimanjaro, Africa’s highest mountain

4. Relax on Tanzania’s Indian Ocean coast. Go diving!

5. Fly or take the ferry to the island archipelago of Zanzibar, famous for the islands’ white coral sand beaches

6. Tour the historical cobbled streets and Arab-influenced Stone Town, Zanzibar, celebrated for its film and music festivals. No trip to Zanzibar is complete without a spice tour!

7. Tanzania has seven UNESCO World Heritage Sites including the Serengeti, Selous National Park, Ngorongoro Crater and Stone Town.

8. Enjoy unusual fresh juices – such as coconut ‘madafu’ and custard apple

9. Explore the Selous, Africa’s BIGGEST game reserve!

10. Explore Dar es Salaam, East Africa’s second biggest port and a melting pot of African, Arabic and Indian influences.

“Jambo” – is the Swahili greeting for “welcome” which you will hear everywhere in friendly Tanzania.

Wolfgang Thome, Edgar Batte, Charlotte Beauvoisin, Solomon Oleny. Kilimanjaro Airport
Me and my awesome travel buddies! Tourism and aviation expert Prof. Wolfgang H. Thome and travel journos Edgar R. Batte & Solomon Mario Oleny, at Kilimanjaro International Airport

The Great Migration of one and a half million Wildebeest traverse the Mara River twice yearly between the Serengeti in Tanzania and Kenya’s Maasai Mara. Game-viewing includes huge buffalo herds, thousands of antelope, elephant and giraffe.

Serengeti wildebeest migration map
Serengeti wildebeest migration map. PHOTO www.tanzaniatourism.com

If you’re going to the Serengeti Tours” target=”_blank” rel=”noreferrer noopener nofollow”>Serengeti, treat yourself to a hot air balloon safari! It’s a huge adventure from start to finish. Get up at the crack of dawn to watch the balloon being inflated and jump in the basket, ready for the off. Watch the sun rise as your balloon moves silently across the savannah, following the wildlife below. It’s amazing what you can see up there! A champagne and breakfast in the bush are just one part of this fabulous experience.

One of Tanzania’s most popular attractions is the Ngorongoro Crater, known as “Africa’s Garden of Eden,” home to 30,000 animals including the rare black rhino and black-maned male lions.

Ngorongoro Crater. PHOTO www.tanzaniatourism
Ngorongoro Crater. See how the cloud kisses the rim of the crater! PHOTO www.tanzaniatourism

This jaw-dropping scenery is under the most serious of threats. Tanzania presses on with hydroelectric dam on vast game reserve. “Stiegler’s Gorge dam on the Selous park, a World Heritage Site listed as ‘in danger’, will cause irreversible damage, say conservationists.” Read The true cost of the Stiegler’s Gorge hydropower project in Tanzania (2019).

An (avoidable) environmental nightmare beckons… despite “the excellent potential of solar and wind power options.”

Serena.Selous game drive, Tanzania
My turn to drive… (I wish!) What a superb game drive we had, from the luxury tented Selous Serena Camp on to catch our own private boat for Serena Mivumo River Lodge….
lion lazing. Serena. Selous Game Reserve, Tanzania
No zoom lens required! En route we chanced upon a pride of five lions sleeping in the afternoon sun. Selous Game Reserve safari
Selous clouds and landscapes
I loved the open landscape – the many landscapes in fact – of the Selous. Keep reading Diary of a Muzungu for more safari stories from the Selous!
Buffalo herd. Selous Serena Camp safari. Diary of a Muzungu
A herd of 300 buffalo were just a few minutes drive from our base at Selous Serena Camp. What a sight (and a powerful smell too!)
Lion in afternoon sun. Selous Game Reserve. Serena safari
Lion sleeping in the afternoon sun in Selous Game Reserve. Exclusively ours: on an all day game drive, we only saw four other safari vehicles.

Did you know…?

Swahili is the official language of Tanzania but English is widely spoken.

Watch my short video: my view from the cockpit! Flight between Zanzibar and Dar es Salaam.

We flew with Precision Air on their inaugural flight in 2017 between Dar es Salaam on the Tanzanian coast and Entebbe in Uganda (however Precision don’t currently fly that route).

The inaugural Precision Air flight Entebbe to Dar. July 1st. Wolfgang Thome
The inaugural Precision Air flight Entebbe to Dar. July 1st 2017. Aviation expert Wolfgang Thome captures every moment
inaugural Precision Air flight Entebbe to Dar. July 1st 2017. Wolfgang Thome
It’s an aviation custom that the inaugural flight is baptised on the tarmac! We took the first Precision Air flight from Entebbe to Dar es Salaam thanks to the wonderful Professor Wolfgang

Click here for reviews of 100s of Tanzania tours.

The year of saying YES

Revenge travel: with the freedom to travel again, in 2022 I said yes to every travel opportunity that came my way!

Before 2023 swallows me in a frenzy of work, I’m taking a moment to reflect on the 365 days in which I continued to piece my life back together as the world reopened for tourism. Just as we were getting up to speed post-pandemic (with summer bookings almost as busy as 2019) Uganda tourism was dealt a blow by the recurrence of Ebola. Would you believe it, we groaned collectively. Tour operators had only just resumed “real work” after two years of farming goats and washing cars; but anyway THANKFULLY the Ebola outbreak has officially been declared over, so let me say no more.

If 2020 was a write-off, and we “woke up” mid-2021, I’ll sum up 2022 as the year I said a resounding yes to everything. (And if 2021 was the year of the big resignation, surely 2022 must have been the year of the big burnout!) In 2022, I was so busy looking for new opportunities and answering travel queries that there was little time for creative writing on my beloved blog. Don’t worry dear reader – or listener? – in 2023, I promise to inspire you once more! This year’s project is a podcast, launching soon… but first…

Fodor’s Travel’s Complete Guide to the African Safari

One of 2022’s highlights was updating the Uganda and Rwanda chapters of Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari. Fodor’s have been writing guidebooks for over 80 years.

If you’re researching a destination listed in this blog post, know that I have visited them personally in 2022. This means that you can read about them in the Fodor’s Guide or send me an enquiry. This post is a compilation of 2022’s social media updates. Stand-out moments – which made the long drives, Bwindi’s terrible roads, and the endless proof-reading of the guidebook worth it! – include:

UGANDA travel highlights

  • Listening to hyenas howling as I stretched out in bed at the glorious Ishasha Wilderness Camp, southern Queen Elizabeth National Park.
  • Adding five ‘lifers’ to my bird list in Mgahinga Gorilla National Park during my stay at Mount Gahinga Lodge.
  • Celebrating the tenth anniversary of Rwakobo Rock Lodge in Lake Mburo.
  • Ferry rides and kayaking in search of otters on the very cool Banda Island, Kalangala (Ssese Islands).
  • Dinner at the Bungee Bar overlooking the River Nile at Jinja.
  • The Uganda Railway Museum at Jinja railway station.
  • Driving across the Nile’s ferocious white waters at Karuma Falls en route to Pakwach and West Nile.
  • Being one of the judges of the Miss Rwenzori Tourism Final in Kasese.
  • Flying over Lake Victoria and Lake Mutanda towards the Virunga volcanoes with Aerolink.
  • Driving every rocky road around Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, from Nkuringo to Rushaga, Ruhija and Buhoma.
  • Visiting every lodge in Lake Mburo National Park.
  • Buying straw hats in Mbarara!
  • Taking a tour of Emburura Farm Lodge.
Charlotte, Diary of a Muzungu visits Batwa Village, Mgahinga with Volcanoes Safaris Uganda
Charlotte, Diary of a Muzungu visits Batwa Village, Mgahinga with Volcanoes Safaris Uganda

What an amazing welcome we had from the Batwa community of Mgahinga. Interaction with this ancient forest tribe are always memorable. I asked to have my photo taken with Stephen, one of the elders. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village! What a giggle. I was in Mgahinga near Kisoro to write about Volcanoes Safaris’ Retreat “Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes conservation challenges 2022 to 2050.”

Prince David Wasajja Rwenzori Marathon 2021 Kasese Uganda. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin Diary of a Muzungu
Prince David Wasajja at the inaugural Rwenzori Marathon 2022 Kasese Uganda. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin Diary of a Muzungu

Prince Wasajja of Buganda Kingdom completed the 21km run at the Rwenzori Marathon in western Uganda. Kasese town was painted green and the streets were lined with curious bystanders who couldn’t believe their town had become the talk of the country for a weekend. For many Kampala friends, this was their first visit. That shows you the power of sporting events in putting a destination on the map. 2023 is set to be even bigger for Kasese!

Murchison Falls Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu blog
Did you know….? The area where the River Nile explodes through a narrow gap in the rocks is called THE DEVIL’S CAULDRON!
Murchison Falls Uganda. Charlotte Beauvoisin, Diary of a Muzungu travel blog

I was curious to see the new tarmac road that bisects Murchison Falls National Park (still under construction in some areas). I hate that Uganda is drilling for oil in a Protected Area but the drive to the Top of the Falls is certainly easier than before. We all gasped when we were hit by spray from the river! (Thankfully the cameras and phones survived). We passed through Murchison on our way back from Arua in West Nile.

Stirring up magic at the Devil’s Cauldron is one of my favourite stories from Murchison.

There is so much to write about West Nile:

  • firstly the BIG smiles
  • diverse cultures of tribes that are local to the region
  • a list of invitations to numerous waterfalls
  • mountain hikes
  • hot springs
  • Emin Pasha’s Fort
  • Congolese music
  • smoked Angala fish
  • Amin’s Trail
  • Colourful kitenge material sold by South Sudanese ladies at the Friday market

The people of Arua loved my 10 little-known things to do in Arua written after an earlier visit.

What are we without culture?

Mungu and I spent an enthralling hour with Tutu, Director of the Madi Lugbara Community Museum in Arua, West Nile, northwestern Uganda. I loved the museum’s simplicity. Moreover, the items displayed aren’t dusty items that sit forgotten on a shelf. “Go to the villages in West Nile” says John “and you will see all these items in daily use.”

Madi Lugbara Museum, Arua, West Nile Uganda PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin
Uganda’s unique tribes hold so many stories. We must treasure them ♥️ Madi Lugbara Museum, Arua Uganda PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin

Protecting traditional culture starts by listening to our elders’ stories, learning the lessons captured by song, engaging with passionate people like Tutu. He brought everything in the museum to life with his insightful, frequently funny, stories. The Madi Lugbara Community Museum is in Arua town. It’s one of many community museums across Uganda. They are mostly run by volunteers and all need our support.

Kampala Serena Hotel Charlotte Beauvoisin and Joan Diary of a Muzungu readers
Kampala Serena Hotel. Charlotte Beauvoisin with Joan, a guide and Diary of a Muzungu reader

One of the great things about writing a blog is meeting all kinds of interesting people [do say hi!] While I was checking out hotels and restaurants in Kampala for Fodor’s Travel, tour guide Joan came to say hello. She’s a ‘Top Fan’ of my Facebook page so it was wonderful to meet in person. The staff at the 5- star Kampala Serena Hotel are always smart, courteous and friendly. It’s a real privilege to stay there.

Diary of a Muzungu picking tea in plantation near Kibale Forest
Diary of a Muzungu picking tea

On a half-day “boda boda tour” of 7 crater lakes, we stopped at a tea plantation on the edge of Kibale Forest. I was over the moon when one of the tea-pickers handed me the “jerrycan shears” and gave me a chance to pick my own tea! Tea + Ugandan jerrycan invention = pure joy for a Brit like me (a big tea drinker).

biking trips from Kampala. Red Dirt Uganda. Charlotte Diary of a Muzungu
Biking trips from Kampala. Charlotte Diary of a Muzungu

Cool way to spend the weekend alert! If you’re looking for a bit of an adventure without traveling far from Kampala, I recommend this half day tour: I jumped in a wooden boat at Ggaba for a 20km bike ride along the marram dirt roads of Mukono. I came back feeling super relaxed… (and dusty and sweaty!) If you have your own bike, you can join Sunday bike rides around Kampala at zero cost. Contact the Muzungu for more info.

RWANDA travel highlights

Stand-out moments included:

  • Being back in Rwanda after three long years!
  • Eating sambaza fish while listening to Congolese music in Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu. Read How to eat like a Rwandan – a few snacks (I bet you’ve never tried).
  • Chatting conservation with Rwanda Development Board at Gishwati Mukura National Park, Rwanda’s newest protected area.
  • Sipping tea and nibbling homemade biscuits on the terrace at Virunga Lodge, overlooking the twin lakes of Bulera and Ruhondo.
  • Gawping in awe at the world-class Ellen de Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Kinigi, close to the start of the gorilla tracking.
  • Having The Best Massage Of My Life at the five-star Maisha Spa at Kigali Serena Hotel.
  • Drinking tea on the balcony of Virunga Lodge overlooking Lake Burera.
  • Reconnecting with Greg Bakunzi of Red Rocks. Their cool campsite in Musanze is a centre for adventure, art and cultural learning. The community benefit directly from t heourists.
  • Hearing stories about Dian Fossey from Gaudence, the owner of the legendary Muhabura Hotel, where Fossey used to stay.

In May 2022, I saw for myself how easy it is to enter Rwanda at the snazzy new Gatuna “one stop shop” border post.

Rwanda border 2022 with Rashid and Diary of a Muzungu
Yes we’re in! Document checking at the Rwanda border with Rashid and Diary of a Muzungu

After years of cross-border bus trips, it was interesting to cross the border in a tourist vehicle. First my guide Rashid had to buy COMESA insurance; at the border he had to ‘clear’ the vehicle with the Uganda Revenue Authority and Immigration. Here we were both issued with an Interstate Pass (part of the East Africa Tourist Visa which all EAC citizens and residents are eligible for). Lastly, our bags were scanned and searched – don’t accidentally carry a cavera (plastic bag) into Rwanda!

Dr Seguya, Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration, Kigali, Rwanda with Charlotte Beauvoisin and Rashid Walulya Kigali 2022
Dr Seguya GVTC with Charlotte Beauvoisin, Rashid Walulya. Kigali Rwanda

In Kigali, Rwanda, we caught up with Dr Andrew G. Seguya who heads the Greater Virunga Transboundary Collaboration (and was the longest serving ED at Uganda Wildlife Authority). GVTC is best known for protecting the mountain gorillas that range between Rwanda, Uganda and the DR Congo. Have you heard of the pledge to protect gorillas? Gorilla tracking tourists are encouraged to commit to protecting the gorillas from human diseases by signing the www.gorillafriendly.org pledge.

Lake Kivu Serena Hotel Rwanda with Charlotte Beauvoisin
Lake Kivu Serena Hotel Rwanda with Charlotte Beauvoisin on behalf of Fodor’s Travel

Have you visited Rubavu (Gisenyi) on Lake Kivu?

This chilled-out small town borders the DRC town of Goma and is great for a long weekend. The buffet breakfast at Lake Kivu Serena Hotel is to die for! Their new gym opened in time for CHOGM in 2022 and the hotel has added mountain bike hire and birdwatching to their list of activities.

Have you heard of Gishwati-Mukura National Park?

Gishwati-Mukura National Park Rwanda. PHOTO Charlotte Beauvoisin Diary of a Muzungu travel blog
Gishwati-Mukura National Park Rwanda

Rwanda’s conservation and tourism visions are bold and inspiring. The new national park, created in 2016, is in fact two (severely degraded) forest fragments. An ambitious plan is in place to develop tourism activities (hiking, birdwatching, chimpanzee tracking and cultural experiences). A tree planting programme is visibly helping prevent soil erosion, protect rivers, improve biodiversity and – crucially – provide firewood for local communities. I’ve been following Gishwati-Mukura’s evolution closely since writing a blog for Albertine Rift Conservation Society in 2019.

Fancy sleeping in Dian Fossey’s room?

Diary of a Muzungu with Gaudence, the owner of the legendary Muhabura Hotel in Musanze, the Rwandan town closest to the gorillas
Diary of a Muzungu with Gaudence, the delightful owner of Hotel Muhabura in Musanze, the Rwandan town closest to the gorillas

Gaudence’s family knew pioneer gorilla conservationist Dian Fossey well and shared some interesting stories about Fossey’s stays there. Did you know you can stay in the very room where Fossey slept? (For a premium price). You can guess where the muzungu wanted to sleep! (Unfortunately I arrived when the room was being renovated).

KENYA travel highlights

Nairobi’s matatus are legendary! Each one is a work of art.

Diary of a Muzungu travel blog with Kenyan travel writer Harriet Owalla in a matatu taxi, Nairobi Kenya
Listening to reggae beats in a matutu in Nairobi with the brilliant Kenyan jounalist and travel writer Harriet Owalla

Work it baby (More reasons to celebrate 2022)

Thank you to everyone who voted for me in the Top 100 Women in Travel and Tourism in Africa. I felt honoured to be nominated and bowled over to come at no. 2 in the online vote!

Charlotte Beauvoisin. Winner Africa Tourism Promoter of the Year 2022. Africa Travel Awards. Akwaaba African Travel Market Nigeria
Winner Africa Tourism Promoter of the Year 2022. Africa Travel Awards. Akwaaba: African Travel Market takes place every October in Lagos, Nigeria

Training assignments led me across East Africa: digital marketing training in Jinja, Kampala, Fort Portal and West Nile; a community-based tourism webinar from Sunbird Hill for the East Africa Tourism Platform. Other work highlights included being speaking live to readers of the U.K.’s Wanderlust Magazine; a digital marketing presentation at Uganda’s inaugural Adventure Tourism Expo; On Uganda podcast interview; judging Uganda’s annual Travel Writing Competition. The year ended on a high with an invitation to Nairobi to co-lead a day discussing responsible tourism (one of my favourite subjects) with Kenyan content creators, Ecotourism Kenya and Kenya Tourism Board. (Thank you Barbara!)

Did 2022’s travels make up for lockdown on the edge of Kibale Forest?

That time was enchanting in many ways and I remain grateful every day (as my #LockdownDiaries attest) but I took the isolation hard. I confess: 2022’s carbon footprint was off the scale and this year I am committed to offsetting my travels. I’m also committed to launching a podcast, a project inspired by being locked down with nature. More on that very soon!

Lastly, you’re always welcome to contact me for travel recommendations or check out my Travel Directory.

The Challenge of Protecting the Great Apes and the Albertine Rift

Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050 – an overview of the retreat at Mount Gahinga Lodge

If you’ve been following Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know how passionate I am about conservation. I was therefore delighted to be invited to help document Volcanoes Safaris’ conservation retreat at their fabulous Mount Gahinga Lodge. This is the first in a series of posts and podcasts I’ll be publishing about the weekend’s fascinating conversations.

Volcanoes Safaris was honoured to host the “Retreat on The Albertine Rift Ecosystems and Great Apes: Conservation Challenges 2022 to 2050” at Mount Gahinga Lodge in the Ugandan foothills of the Virunga volcanoes. The retreat was the culmination of a series of events in 2022 to celebrate Volcanoes Safaris’ 25th anniversary.

Glorious footage of Mt Gahinga Lodge and the Virunga volcanoes. Short intro by Praveen Moman and key speakers give a flavour of the Volcanoes Safaris’ retreat

Welcome to Mount Gahinga, Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge, by Praveen Moman

Praveen Moman, founder of Volcanoes Safaris welcomed everyone to Mgahinga “the playground of Volcanoes Safaris” an area that Praveen has been visiting with his family since the age of 12 and the location for Volcanoes Safaris’ first lodge: Mount Gahinga. Praveen took the opportunity to thank the assembled gathering for the collaboration, partnership and perseverance and to make an impassioned plea to find solutions.

Praveen Moman, Volcanoes Safaris Retreat Mgahinga Uganda 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions
Praveen Moman, Volcanoes Safaris Retreat Mgahinga Uganda 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions

Participants acknowledged that big strides have been made in conservation. Johannes Refisch (UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi) pointed out that mountain gorillas are the only great ape species whose numbers have increased in the past decades. Dr Gladys Zikusoka-Kalema of Conservation Through Public Health noted that mountain gorillas are important to government revenue, commenting “We have a gorilla on a Ugandan banknote.” However, the growing human population, climate change, risk of disease, regional insecurity and other factors will continue to exacerbate environmental challenges.

Welcome to Uganda’s smallest National Park” by Uganda Wildlife Authority

The weekend’s events started with a short walk in the National Park led by Praveen Moman and Richard Muhabwe, Senior Warden, Uganda Wildlife Authority. Muhabwe welcomed everyone to the 33.7 km square Mgahinga Gorilla National Park (MGNP), part of the greater Bwindi Mgahinga Conservation Area. This transboundary Park, contiguous with Volcanoes National Park in DRC and Rwanda, is popular for tracking the Nyakagezi family of nine mountain gorillas, golden monkeys, nature walks and volcano hiking of Mount Muhabura, Mount Gahinga and Mount Sabyinyo, borders the three countries.

Muhabwe’s welcome speech highlighted many of the environmental challenges that were to be discussed over the coming days. Climate change has led to flooding: mudslides on Mount Muhabura killed ten people and damaged property earlier in 2022. Climate change exacerbates the presence of invasive (plant) species that replace foliage that should feed wildlife. Human wildlife conflict is another local challenge: a 16 km long stone wall along MGNP’s boundary stretches from the border of the DRC to the border of Rwanda and prevents buffaloes straying from the National Park to destroy crops.

The singing from the Batwa village was simply FABULOUS. What an amazing welcome! I was delighted to see Stephen, one of the elders, again. I will never forget my first interaction with this ancient forest tribe and had to have my photo taken with him. 
Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village!
What an amazing welcome! I was delighted to see Stephen, one of the elders, again. I will never forget my first interaction with this ancient forest tribe and had to have my photo taken with him. Cue: mass photo bombing by the whole village!

One of the highlights of the retreat was an exuberant song and dance display by the villagers who reside in the Batwa Village built on land purchased by Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust and other well-wishers. Jane Nyirangano, chairperson of the Gahinga Batwa Village, thanked VSPT for their interventions.

Mount Gahinga Lodge’s eight traditional hand-built guest bandas (two deluxe and six standard rooms) face the magical Virunga Volcanoes  

The purpose of the retreat

Participants at the informal conservation retreat discussed the successes and challenges of the past 25 years of conservation in the Albertine Rift and brainstormed ideas and solutions for ensuring the habitats, parks and wildlife, including the endangered great apes, survive for the next 25 years.

The aim of the retreat was to stimulate new ways of collaboration. It was an opportunity to speak openly about participants’ perspectives, fears and ambitions for this fragile region. By having a longer-term goal, participants were free to imagine a range of scenarios (in contrast to most meetings which tend to focus on the more immediate future). The fundamental questions revolved around: what are we doing right? What else are need to do? Is it a question of scaling up current interventions? Or do we need to adopt new approaches?

We cannot just put wilderness on a pedestal; we need to put bread on the table of local people. We need to use the private sector to be the engine of growth, to deliver business plans, to organise service delivery. We need Protected Area managers and conservationists to look after our species, and veterinarian and disease specialists to safeguard species’ health and protect them for the future. We need to join what’s happening outside a park with what’s happening inside a park. We need to make people part of the conservation chain. We need to make this the beginning of the campaign to save the Albertine Rift.

Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris

Who attended the retreat

Participants came from across the region: wildlife vets, primatologists, researchers, safari guides, wildlife rangers, National Park law enforcement and tourism wardens, foresters, and other conservationists; hospitality consultants, tour operators, development experts, private financiers, community outreach (Herbert) and media.

The retreat was co-moderated by Conservation Consultant Alastair McNeilage and Johannes Refisch of UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi.

Participants were invited to make short, simple presentations on topics of relevance to conservation in the Albertine Rift.

Key conclusions of the retreat

  1. It’s important for stakeholders to consider the Albertine Rift – Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC – as one region and to have a long-term vision for addressing the area’s various challenges.
  2. Concrete steps must be taken to maintain connectivity between small, isolated islands of habitat. This will help make ecosystems more resilient to the impacts of climate change.
  3. The threat of more human diseases affecting great apes is significant so veterinary care and technology will remain critical.
  4. Conservation needs to be part of the economic mainstream for governments and communities to support the continued presence of protected areas in regions where human populations continue to rise.
  5. Local communities must benefit from conservation and tourism. They have a stake in the future of great apes and protected areas and must be involved in development plans.
  6. Tourism can bring significant revenue, but the pandemic has taught us that conservation and communities cannot rely on one sole source of funding. New business models for protected area management must be actively considered. Innovative models have been successfully implemented across Africa. Public-private partnerships, for example, approach conservation management as a business that can cover the protected area’s operational costs and directly benefit communities involved.
  7. Collaboration between conservation organisations and the private sector needs to be developed further. Long-term involvement of researchers, new investment in parks, and application of private sector skills such as ‘business thinking’ and service delivery are important in sensitively developing natural resources and creating ‘professional tourism products’ for sale to visitors.
  8. Gorilla and chimpanzee tourism must be sensitive and controlled in line with the established protocols so that it does not negatively impact the species or habitat. Tourism protocols need to be strictly followed by park authorities, tourism intermediaries and visitors.
  9. Investment in conservation education for the next generation of young Africans is critical, to ensure that young people are educated and inspired to support conservation and tourism. The need for quality education is particularly important for the indigenous Batwa population. Forcibly removed from their forest home, these conservation refugees need a direct benefit from tourism in order to lift their communities out of poverty and help find peaceful human / wildlife co-existence. Conservation education should be an integral part of all stakeholders’ activities.
  10. The retreat agreed to create an informal group: The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group whose aim is to become a long-term advocacy and information network for those involved in this subject area. The focus of the group is to take collaborative action to deal with specific policy issues, threat to a particular species or a habitat or community issue. The group should maintain regular contact, either as a whole or in sub-groups, possibly every quarter through written exchanges, Zoom calls or physical meetings.

Outputs of the retreat

  • The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group is led by Conservation through Public Health and Volcanoes Safaris. The inaugural meeting was held 22nd November 2022 in Kampala.
  • The stakeholders agreed to meet every year, bringing in other partners as appropriate, to review progress. The Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund offered to host the next meeting at their Ellen DeGeneres Campus, at Volcanoes National Park in Rwanda.
  • The Albertine Rift Conservation and Tourism Group has proposed some informal groupings to support action in specific areas; each participant should decide whether they wish to participate in a sub-group.
  • Responsible gorilla tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; the gorilla-friendly pledge; adherence to IUCN and GRASP best practice guidelines; enhancing habitat connectivity.

Lead organisations: Conservation Through Public Health and Gorilla Doctors.

  • Responsible chimpanzee tourism. Topics include: conservation; disease; enhancing habitat connectivity.

Lead organisation: Jane Goodall Institute.

About the Albertine Rift

The Albertine Rift stretches from Murchison Falls in northern Uganda to Kahuzi-Biega in the DRC. It is one of the richest areas of biodiversity in the world and one of the most densely populated areas of Africa.

About Volcanoes Safaris and the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust

For 25 years, Volcanoes Safaris has been at the forefront of reviving tourism in Uganda and Rwanda and is recognized as the region’s leader in gorilla and chimpanzee ecotourism. Volcanoes Safaris was the first company to set up simple camps in the areas around Uganda’s gorilla parks. Today Volcanoes Safaris has three lodges in Uganda: Mount Gahinga Lodge at Mgahinga National Park; Bwindi Lodge, bordering Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; and Kyambura Gorge Lodge, overlooking Queen Elizabeth National Park, neighbouring a gorge with a community of threatened chimpanzees.

Praveen, Giulia and Partha Moman. Volcanoes Safaris. Mgahinga Uganda 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions

In 2000, Volcanoes Safaris became the first international safari company to take clients to Rwanda and in 2004 opened Virunga Lodge, the first international company to build a lodge near the gorilla park after the war. Virunga Lodge is winner of Condé Nast Traveler readers’ choice awards 2017, 2021 and 2022.

Volcanoes Safaris: recognised leaders in great ape tourism

Volcanoes Safaris helped kick-start gorilla tourism in Rwanda after the genocide through the Volcanoes BLCF Partnership Project. In 2005 the company become a charter signatory to the UN Kinshasa Declaration on Saving the Great Apes, the only private sector company to do so. In 2009, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust (VSPT), a non-profit organisation that aims to create long-term, self-sustaining projects that enrich the livelihoods of local communities and promote the conservation of the great apes, was established.

In 2013, Praveen Moman, the founder was asked to join the Congo Basin Forest Partnership, which promotes sensitive economic development of the forests of Central Africa. Praveen has been described as a ‘visionary conservationist’ by the Financial Times and as ‘one of top twenty-five conservation-philanthropists’ in Africa by Departures Magazine. In 2021 Praveen was named winner of the Newsweek Future of Travel Awards.

About the retreat

The retreat took place at Mount Gahinga Lodge between November 12-14 2022. The next retreat will take place in one to two years’ time.

“We need the wisdom of all you, of your elders, of those who have gone before, of your institutions, to work together.”

Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris
Praveen Moman Volcanoes Safaris with Dr Gladys Kalema Zikusoka. Mgahinga Uganda November 2022. PHOTO Black Bean Productions

For further information

If you’re are interested in future meetings, you’re welcome to contact the Great Apes in the Albertine Rift steering committee via email albertineapes@gmail.com.

  • Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka, Founder, Conservation Through Public Health.
  • Jean Paul Hirwa, Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund
  • James Byamukama, Jane Goodall Institute
  • Alastair McNeilage, Conservation consultant
  • Johannes Refisch, UN Great Apes Program / UNEP Nairobi
  • Nick Radford, Wildlife Conservation Society
  • Praveen Moman, Founder, Volcanoes Safaris

Is Uganda safe to visit? [YES IT IS!]

Kampala expats share their experiences and advice about moving to Uganda with a young family. (It’s mostly very positive!)

I regularly receive questions about moving to work in Uganda and about expat life in Kampala. There are so many great things to say about Uganda but visiting for a couple of weeks isn’t the same as living here. If you’re travelling to the country on safari, or to track the gorillas, you may bypass the capital city entirely, but I love Kampala! It may be intense but the buzz can be addictive.

Is Uganda safe to visit? FOR COMMENTS ON LATEST NEWS, scroll down to the post comments

Below is a typical question I received via WhatsApp recently, in response to my popular post “Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats.” My posts have hundreds of questions from readers – and I reply to them all – however, I thought it would be useful to share answers to this common question. Names have been withheld but all comments are genuine.

“I am moving to Kampala in a few months with my wife and our 3 year old daughter. Of course the worst thing you can do is Google ‘is Uganda safe?’ Lots of words like terrorism and don’t travel. Can you give any info or advice on safety for a young family. I have been to Angola and Uganda for short periods by myself and must admit I felt very comfortable in Kampala. Are the current precautions in place by other governments just that or are there real issues ongoing? Thank you in advance.”

I have my own views and experiences (since moving here in 2009) but was interested in what the expat community would advise. Here are some of their comments.

Is Uganda safe? Uganda is very safe in my opinion. Crowded areas are – as everywhere in the world – places where you’ve to pay more attention but Ugandans are very homely and friendly. For me the most dangerous thing is the road in the sense of accidents.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree. Traffic and road safety are likely to be the biggest daily concern.

Crowded places are safer than empty streets in terms of violent crime, though you might get your pockets picked 

Kampala Expat

One expat added “I wouldn’t recommend that women walk alone at night.”

In my humble opinion the biggest threats are the night clubs and overnight church services… and traffic. Other than that, it’s a great place to live and there is plenty for kids to do. The key in Kampala at least is to live close to work and school.

Kampala Expat
rush hour boda boda motorbikes Jinja Road Kampala. PHOTO Diary of a Muzungu
Rush hour at Jinja Road Kampala. Boda boda motorbikes. PHOTO by Diary of a Muzungu

Is Uganda safe? Yes, road safety and electronic-device-thefts are the two primary concerns. Terrorism is no more a threat here than in the countries which issue the warnings – indeed is probably even less of a concern here – but is a possibility anywhere in the world, sadly. I feel like my children are safe from threat of kidnapping and such. Now the trash burning and air quality in Kampala are pretty bad. If they have any lung issues (allergies, asthma, etc.) that’s something to consider. I’m personally having health issues because of it.

Kampala Expat

Another person agreed that “The overall air quality in Kampala is bad. Wish someone had told me so I could have made a decision about it beforehand.”

I find Uganda massively child friendly having moved here from London 2 years ago. We were here for the bombs which were scary but didn’t feel like they directly targeted us. You can be in the wrong place at the wrong time but more of that kind of thing has happened in my home city than here so I guess it depends where you are coming from. My main concerns here for the kids are them getting seriously sick (not happened as yet), traffic accidents outside of Kampala as traffic is slow moving in the city so unlikely to hurt a child in a car.

Kampala Expat

The muzungu: I agree the bombings were very scary but I worked in London when we had bombs on the buses and Tube… It’s a reminder that terrorism can strike anywhere…

A mother agreed that “My kids have a much more carefree existence here in Uganda than in London.”

Thanks to all of you for the unbiased review of Uganda. Life in Uganda can be quite addictive. Once in you may find it hard to leave.

Kampala Expat

“Best practice is to forward government travel advisories straight to the bin”

Is Uganda safe? I personally stopped reading the travel advise as it makes you scared for no reason. I feel the general travel advise given by western governments about developing countries is based on the 60’s and 70’s and not much has been updated. So i generally tell people to give Uganda a trial period of 3 months as you can either love it or hate or be in the middle as the advises based on individual persons are so biased and not a representation of the local populace and country or counties. above all they should see Uganda with the local lenses.

Kampala Expat

“Uganda is a beautiful country full of really nice and friendly people. Come and have a very enjoyable life experience. Most of the above comments are correct and good advice.”

We have just arrived in Kampala 3 weeks ago. We are still finding our way around, but we generally feel safe, my biggest issue is the traffic and crazy driving and the vendors at traffic lights. Bring a car seat. Also visit the house you want to rent at night… nightclubs are 7 days a week and no mercy on the volume. Lol. We are moving already 臘‍♀️. But it’s not a bad place, delicious fresh fruits and vegetables from the markets, people are very friendly too. I had the same concerns coming here with my kids (3 & 7).

Kampala Expat

Is Uganda safe? The most beautiful & the most crazy. We live in a pollution-free part of Kampala, no humidifiers necessary or air cleaners & I love it so much I haven’t been back to England since I’ve left. Cost of living is amazing & the ability to grow a business & also retire at the same time is amazing. Opportunities here are in abundance & just like anywhere in the world just have to focus on your child’s habit of learning outside of the education curriculum. I wish to be able to fall in love with this city all over again outside of when initially did when I first arrived ❤️ 

Kampala Expat

“Is Uganda safe? Kampala is relatively safe for a city of its size and nature. It has some rough edges, but I wouldn’t say it’s dangerous except for the roads.”

The muzungu: government travel advisories are always very cautious, since if anything goes wrong, your government will have a responsibility to protect you. Sometimes, I can’t recognise the country advisories are writing about! And they are always skewed against developing countries. It is always best to check with local people if you have any doubts about the security of a destination.

The muzungu writes one last thought: Uganda has a thriving expat community of many different nationalities. You will find plenty of support for you and your family. If you’re a tourist, rest assured no-one is going to advise you to come to Uganda and put you at any known risk. Keep asking questions, listen to – and take heed of – local advice and you will have a fantastic experience!

New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😎

How to photograph the mountain gorillas

Tips for taking good photos of gorillas

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
I hope you enjoy my Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking – feel free to share it!

If you enjoy photographing wildlife, the visibility of the gorillas will be particularly important. You’ll probably be desperate to get great photos of this once in a lifetime experience to show family and friends back home.

In Uganda, it can be difficult to capture good photos under the dark canopy of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, as the name suggests! If you are very lucky, you may encounter your gorilla family in a clearing.

In Rwanda, the vegetation tends to be more bamboo and short grass, and therefore can make for better photography, although the skies may still be grey overhead.

You will be on the move, so it’s best to get as organised as possible before you start your gorilla trek. If you hire a porter, which is highly recommended, then you can take a fair bit of kit with you.

Here are a few tips for photographing the gorillas:

If you’re taking photos using a standard point-and-shoot camera:

  • Make sure your camera battery is fully charged.
  • Always take extra memory cards.
  • Remember that flash photography is not allowed when you are with the gorillas. Make sure you have your camera manual with you so you know how to disable the automatic flash and automatic focus light functions.
  • Keep your camera and/or phone in a waterproof bag (such as a large Ziploc bag). Cue: you’re in the rainforest.
  • Take a zoom lens, wide angle lens and an in-between / fixed focal length lens.
  • It may be tricky to change lenses while the gorillas are moving around so take more than one camera body if you can.
  • Take fast film (400-1600 ASA) if you have a film camera.
  • Photographs of gorillas in the low light of the forest can appear underexposed. More experienced photographers recommend shooting at ISO 1250 or higher in the forest.

Professional filmmakers require permission and need to purchase filming permits in advance from Uganda Wildlife Authority (Uganda) or Rwanda Development Board (Rwanda).

Personal DVD recorders are allowed. It’s fairly easy to shoot videos of the mountain gorillas, as you will be close to them and they are generally slow movers.

Taking a photo with the gorillas is all part of the tracking experience. Ladies, remember to look in the mirror before you go off to see the gorillas. (My gorilla selfies are the worst!) LOL. I look so sleepy.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Are mountain gorillas endangered?

What is the conservation status of Mountain Gorillas?

Mountain gorillas (Gorilla beringei beringei) are classified as ‘endangered’ on the IUCN Red List of Endangered Species. It was only in 2018 that they were recategorised from the ‘critically endangered’ listing.

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
Have you read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking?

“Today, mountain gorillas are threatened, not due to a demand for their meat, or their infants, but due to a demand for the lush forest in which they live. For the poverty-stricken communities living around the gorilla habitat it is the forest that provides them with many of their basic human needs, and in the war torn areas of Democratic Republic of the Congo these needs are exaggerated.”

Gorilla conservation is the number one conservation priority in Uganda and Rwanda. Gorilla tourism has helped bring the mountain gorilla population back from the brink of extinction but threats to their survival are still very real. The biggest threats to the gorillas come from humans: illegal logging of the rainforest, poaching, encroachment of land for farming and the risk of disease transmission by humans. Additionally, political instability is still a major factor affecting the Congolese population of mountain gorillas in the DRC region of the Virunga Volcanoes.

“Active conservation [of gorillas] involves simply going out into the forest, on foot, day after day after day, attempting to capture poachers, killing—regretfully—poacher dogs, which spread rabies within the park, and cutting down traps.”

The gorilla population numbers in Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo have increased from a shockingly low census record of just 254 gorillas in 1981 to an estimated 880 individuals in 2013. In 2018, we were delighted to learn the combined population has just passed the 1,000 mark.

Rangers continue to put their lives on the line every day to protect these gentle giants. Poaching of gorillas is thankfully very rare these days, however they can unwittingly become caught in snares set for other animals.

Rwanda’s annual Kwita Izina gorilla-naming ceremony every September is a fascinating time to visit Volcanoes National Park. It is a celebration of Rwanda’s progress in gorilla conservation, and the challenges these great apes continues to face.

If you trek to see the mountain gorillas, you may be interested to know that a percentage of every gorilla permit fee goes to the communities living around the National Parks. The benefits of this are many: local communities receive a tangible benefit from tourism in remote parts of the country where there are few employment opportunities. This direct financial incentive encourages local people to support tourism. Entry into the national parks is strictly controlled. Before the national parks were gazetted, people entered the forest to collect firewood, burn charcoal, set snares and hunt. The promotion of farming outside the protected areas (vegetable gardens and goat rearing) and the development of alternatives to charcoal (fuel-efficient stoves and solar panels) are just some of the projects that conservation organisations promote in local opportunities.

The removal of the Batwa ‘Pygmies,’ the traditional forest dwellers, from the gorillas’ habitat was another step that the authorities took in the 1990s, when the gorilla population seemed to face certain extinction. The Batwa culture and way of life are unique. By visiting and supporting the Batwa projects (developed as alternative ways of living outside the forest that once supported them) you are directly supporting gorilla conservation.

In recent decades, many people from all over the world have dedicated their lives to the conservation of the mountain gorilla. In 1985, pioneer American primatologist Dian Fossey, was found dead in her home in Volcanoes National Park, believed to have been murdered by one of the poachers she fought in her protection of the gorillas. The mountain gorillas are better protected than ever, and their numbers rising slowly, but each year, rangers from Uganda, Rwanda and the DR Congo put their own lives in danger to protect these marvellous creatures. The ‘Galiwango, Life of a Gorilla’ animated film project pays tribute to the bravery and sacrifice of these rangers.

Which conservation organisations are working to protect the mountain gorillas?

For information on some of the conservation issues and initiatives in and around the national parks of Uganda, Rwanda and the Congo, visit:

Conservation Through Public Health (CTPH)

The Gorilla Organization (TGO) works with communities to protect the habitats of the Mountain Gorillas of Uganda, Rwanda and the Democratic Republic of the Congo.

Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) manages the country’s National Parks. UWA rangers are constantly monitoring the whereabouts of Uganda’s gorillas.

Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund International (DFGF)

Blog of the Gorilla Doctors Mountain Gorilla Veterinary Project

International Gorilla Conservation Programme IGCP

Mountain Gorilla Conservation Fund MGCF

Berggorilla & Regenwald Direckthilfe

Gorilla tracking tourism and numerous community tourism initiatives all help raise funds and awareness the plight of the endangered mountain gorillas.


For gorilla tracking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.

Gorilla Tracking Rules [UPDATED]

What are the rules for tracking the Mountain Gorillas? Why do we need them?

Diary of a Muzungu's Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking
Have you read Diary of a Muzungu’s Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Trekking?
  • Uganda Wildlife Authority (UWA) and Rwanda Development Board (RDB) have clear rules and regulations to protect both gorillas and the humans that track them.
  • The ranger guides will do their utmost to find the gorillas for you. These conservation rangers are in frequent radio contact, constantly monitoring the health, safety and whereabouts of the mountain gorilla populations.
  • Although no tourist has ever been seriously hurt by a habituated gorilla, you should always remember that an adult gorilla is several times stronger than a human, and can be disturbed by human activity, particularly if the gorillas are nursing infants or sick – or simply not in the mood to be disturbed!
  • The maximum group size for tracking the gorillas is 8 to 10 people per group
  • Gorilla trackers must be fit and in good health. Trekking in thick forest at heights over 2,000 metres, traversing steep mountains and ravines can be tough and frequently wet. Gorillas are susceptible to many human diseases, including COVID-19, diarrhoea, colds and the flu. You should not go gorilla tracking if you have any of these.
  • Your cough or sneeze can be lethal to a gorilla. Gorilla tracking was closed for many months at the start of the pandemic but has reopened. However, stricter regulations are in place to track all mountain gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda, Rwanda and the DRC. For example, as soon as you enter the National Park you must wear a good quality facemask. You must keep the mask on at all times. When you find the gorillas, you will be asked to put on a clean facemask.
  • Gorillas can catch diseases from discarded human rubbish. Don’t litter or spit while in the gorillas’ habitat.
  • Do not touch the gorillas, even if they come close. They can be very curious.
  • Do not make any sudden movements.
  • If a gorilla charges, do not run away. Stay calm. Slowly crouch down and avoid direct eye contact, until the gorilla moves away in its own time.
  • Leave a distance of at least ten metres between you and the gorillas – although the gorillas do not always stick to this rule! If the gorillas start moving towards you, the rangers may advise you to move backwards away from them. (Pre-pandemic, experts said we should keep seven metres distance; this has been upwardly revised to 10 metres).
  • Do not surround the gorillas. View them from a distance and in groups.
  • One hour is allowed with the gorillas.
  • Personal DVD recorders are allowed. Professional filmmakers need to purchase filming permits in advance from UWA or RDB.
  • If you need to go to the toilet while you are in the forest, tell your guide, and they will dig a hole for you. Make sure you cover the hole afterwards to prevent possible transfer of disease to the gorilla population.
  • You will be given a list of the Gorilla Tracking Rules with your tracking permit and reminded of them again on the morning of your gorilla trek.
  • Flash photography is not allowed. It can be difficult to capture good photos of the gorillas under the dark canopy of the rainforest. If you have a film camera, fast film (400-1600 ASA) is useful.

For gorilla trekking stories and Uganda and Rwanda travel advice, click on the hyperlinks in the
 Ultimate Guide to Mountain Gorilla Tracking. Looking for more info? Check out my Travel Directory or Contact the Muzungu.