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Swim, cycle or run? (Win fab prizes!) Kyaninga Triathlon May 2024

Are you a runner? Do you ride a bike? Do you swim?

Kyaninga Lodge KCDC triathlon, duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024
Kyaninga Lodge triathlon / duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024

If you can do all – or even one – of these sports, then why not get a team together for the superb Kyaninga Triathlon on May 18th 2024? (We still have time to get in shape!) You can also sign up for a fun run, duathlon or bike ride. The annual triathlon takes place in the glorious countryside around Kyaninga Lodge outside Fort Portal, western Uganda. Full details – prices + how to enter + race descriptions + contact details – are on the Kyaninga Events website.

NOTE: info on this page is updated every year.

Do you fancy winning a night at one of Uganda’s top lodges?

Scroll down to read how to buy raffle tickets to night stays at Kyaninga Lodge, Ndali Lodge, Buhoma Lodge, Mihingo Lodge, Red Chilli Hideaway, Aramaga Rift Valley Lodge, Seasons Lodge Zanzibar, Little Elephant Camp, Kikorongo Safari Lodge, Rwakobo Rock, Turaco Treetops and Trekkers Safari Lodge.

Help change the futures of children with disabilities in Uganda

All proceeds of these fundraiser events go to the amazing Kyaninga Child Development Centre who work with disabled children and their families. I have seen the positive impact of their work – it’s life-changing! 13% of children in Uganda – that’s more than 2.5 million children – are living with a disability

How to register for the Kyaninga Triathlon + how to buy raffle tickets to win awesome prizes at lodges, cafes and restaurants across Uganda

1. Visit the Kyaninga Triathlon website for more info.

2. If you’re in Uganda, register for all these events OR pay for raffle tickets by using MTN MoMo Pay 613517.

3. Got a question? WhatsApp Fiona at KCDC on +256 778277248 or events@kyaningacdc.org

4. Buy a ton of raffle tickets! You can even buy them remotely and your numbers will be sent via WhatsApp.

5. Looking for ideas on accommodation around Fort Portal? Send me a message.

Six more great reasons to track gorillas in Uganda!

Five more gorilla families available to track in Bwindi + Tracking fee increases in Uganda.

Got a thing for great apes? This is what you need to know if you want to track gorillas and chimpanzees in Uganda in 2024 and beyond

There are now at least SIX* more great reasons to track gorillas in Uganda!

🦍 Did you hear that five more gorilla families are now available for tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest? Scroll down for full information.

🦍 And to make gorilla tracking even more appealing, we’ve just heard that another baby has been born in Rushaga, to the south of the forest.

*5 more gorilla families + 1 new baby = 6

Is there anything cuter than a baby gorilla?

This week brought exciting news from the Uganda Wildlife Authority: a fluffy addition to the Bikingi mountain gorilla family! The newest family member is the offspring of mother Mucecuru and fathered by Silverback Kaharata.

baby Bikingi Mountain Gorilla Family. Brian Nvuyekure Feb 2024 Uganda Wildlife Authority
PHOTO CREDIT to Brian Nvuyekure (Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger) for capturing this special moment in Rushaga, Bwindi Impenetrable National Park

Five more gorilla families available for tracking in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest

With the habituation programme complete, UWA has confirmed that permits can now be booked to see the following gorilla families:

  • Buhoma [northern Bwindi] – Binyindo + Muyambi families
  • Nkuringo [southwest Bwindi] – Posho family
  • Rushaga [southern Bwindi] – Rwigi + Tindatine families

During the course of habituation, which has taken up to four years for some gorilla families, visitors from around the world have accompanied rangers and researchers on their daily monitoring. The process of habituation gradually acclimatises wildlife to the presence of humans. It means we can safely spend time in each other’s company safely without impacting the great apes’ behaviour.

With another five habituated gorilla families, Uganda now has 194 gorilla tracking permits available every day. In addition, there are four permits available for the gorilla habituation experience.

What’s the catch?

Simultaneously, Uganda Wildlife Authority have announced price increases* to primate tracking fees, and a number of other activities, to take effect on July 1 2024. Still, with a gorilla permit in Rwanda costing a hefty $1500, Uganda’s gorilla permits continue to get snapped up very quickly, particularly during peak seasons of summer and Christmas. If you’re planning a gorilla tracking safari, you may even need to reserve permits a year in advance.

*These are the key fee changes, but scroll down for the full list.

Mountain gorilla tracking permits

Bwindi Impenetrable Forest and Mgahinga Gorilla National Parks: $800 (currently $700)


Chimp tracking permits

Kibale Forest: $250 (currently $200)
Kyambura Gorge, Queen Elizabeth National Park: $100 (currently $50)


Chimpanzee habituation permits

Kibale Forest: $300 (currently $250)

Gorilla tracking discounts for African passport holders:

Gorilla tracking permit: $500

Gorilla habituation experience: $1000

Why have the fees increased?

The revision in permit fees is a response to the increasing expenses associated with conservation, which encompasses anti-poaching campaigns, patrolling, monitoring and community development initiatives. It’s worth highlighting that a significant portion, specifically 20%, of the fees for permits and park entry is given to invest in communities neighbouring the National Parks. This ensures that experiences with primates (notably gorillas, chimpanzees and golden monkeys) contribute meaningfully to community development.

Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024

Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024
Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024
Uganda Wildlife Authority revised CONSERVATION TARIFF from July 2024

Click here to download Uganda Wildlife Authority’s 2024 tariff for all permits and National Parks. Note that unless stated in the letter above, other prices will not increase after July 1 2024 (as far as the muzungu is aware!)

What’s it like to track gorillas and chimpanzees?

I’ve tracked gorillas, chimps and golden monkeys numerous times in Uganda and Rwanda and written extensively about gorilla tracking for international publications. I also work closely with gorilla and chimpanzee conservation NGOs, guides and tour operators. Got a question? Send me a message 😎


Have you seen the Giant goliath beetle?

The Giant goliath beetle! 😍 When I moved to Uganda 15 years ago my no. 1 one fear was insects – now look at me 😂

It’s amazing what interests people: one of my British friends is planning to visit me in Uganda. This is the very thing that she wants to see!

Sadly, this particular beetle was attacked by a black and white casqued hornbill. (You can see the damage to its wing).

Did you know the giant goliath beetle is the world’s heaviest beetle?

We see them occasionally at Sunbird Hill, on the edge of Kibale Forest. They love tree sap. In fact I have seen them fighting with butterflies for it. They all get drunk! Yes! Imagine this big drunken beetle flying through the air.

The Sunbird Hill team specialise in immersive nature experiences, conservation and citizen science focusing on the smaller creatures: butterflies, moths, insects, birds and snakes. I’ve written dozens of stories about our extraordinary life here.

The East Africa Travel Podcast by Charlotte Beauvoisin
Sunbird Hill is the inspiration for the East Africa Travel Podcast, launching soon.

Sign up to be the first to be notified when we go live.

Will you Run or Ride the Rift? Sign up for the 2024 events now!

Get fit. Help out. Feel good

Join me in registering for this year’s calendar of sporting events taking place at the fabulous Kyaninga Lodge near Fort Portal. I love these professionally organised annual events! Full booking info, prices and contact details are on the Kyaninga Sporting Events website.

Kyaninga Lodge sports events programme Fort Portal 2024
Kyaninga Lodge sports events programme for 2024

Where do the annual Kyaninga sporting events take place?

These events are centred in and around Kyaninga Lodge, just 15 minutes’ drive from Fort Portal. The lodge provides one of the most spectacular, and challenging, backdrops for a sporting event that any athlete – serious or recreational (like me) – could wish for. Read my blog, Kyaninga Lodge – the dancing, running (and relaxing!) lodge.

Who profits from the Kyaninga sporting events?

All proceeds go to the excellent Kyaninga Child Development Centre. KCDC provides much needed therapy services for children with disabilities in the region, the majority of whom are from disadvantaged families and would otherwise go untreated. I’ve seen how their work can transform a disabled child’s family for the better.

Running the Rift, Kyaninga Lodge, Fort Portal Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu.
Running the Rift – with Dillon, Assumptah, baby Stella and Rachel from Kyaninga Childhood Development Centre

One year we all took part in Running the Rift. Innocent and Emmanuel steamed into 4th and 5th places in the 21 km (while some of us walked the 5 km!) Assumptah carried baby Stella the whole 5 km. Way to go, team!

Running the Rift, Kyaninga Lodge, Fort Portal Uganda. Diary of a Muzungu.
Running the Rift with the Diary of a Muzungu family

Ride the Rift bike races Kyaninga Lodge – Date to be confirmed

Choose from the 65 km descent bike race or the 95 km “Beast Route!”

Take in Lake Albert, cycle through the Semuliki Wildlife Reserve, and then up and down the foothills of the majestic Rwenzori Mountains. Choose the challenge of cycling the ‘up’ course, climbing from the lowest point in Uganda, 615 metres, up over a vertical kilometre, to finish at 1685 metres. On the ‘down’ course, cycle into the valley and watch it open up in front of you. For the ultimate adventure, choose the Beast Route – a total of 95 km.

The date of the 2024 event is to be confirmed later in the year.

How much does it cost to Ride the Rift in 2024?

  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ Pre-registration is required for all events.
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ Entry fee $45 includes event registration, prize-giving ceremony and evening entertainment. For Ugandans, the fee is 165k ugx.
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ There is also a special prize for the top Ugandan finisher in each category (male / female, 65km / 95km race).
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ TO REGISTER: MomoPay 613517 events@kyaningacdc.org or +256 778277248.
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ Bike hire options are available.
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ All races start and finish at Kyaninga Lodge with afternoon prizegiving and evening entertainment in the events hall. These events are always a great day out, even if you’re just an observer (but do buy lunch and some raffle tickets; it’s a fundraiser after all!)
  • 🚴🏾‍♂️🚴🏼‍♀️ Bus transfer $15 (optional bus transport for bike and rider from Lake Albert back to Kyaninga Lodge). Local lunch is available at Lake Albert finish line (at additional cost).

Kyaninga Triathlon and Duathlon, Kyaninga Lodge – Saturday May 18th 2024

Kyaninga Lodge KCDC triathlon, duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024
Kyaninga Lodge KCDC triathlon, duathlon fundraiser Fort Portal May 2024

The Kyaninga (42km) Marathon is a big day in the local and international running calendar. Beginners run alongside Olympians, locals run alongside visitors from around the world and everyone runs the most stunning race route imaginable. You will run high up on the Rift Valley Escarpment, looking out “as the Rwenzori Mountains melt into the East African plain.” The races are followed by a big after-party and BBQ.

How much does it cost to Run the Rift?

“Race-only entry” is available to Ugandan residents. Pre-registration required.

  • 42 km $45 or 165k UGX
  • 21 km $45 or 165k UGX
  • 10 km $40 or 150k UGX
  • 5 km $30 or 110 k UGX
  • Event fee includes registration, prize-giving ceremony and evening entertainment. Half price for kids under 12.

Choose from Triathlon, Duathlon or Fun Run.

For the ultimate challenge, or team event, sign up for the popular Kyaninga Triathlon. Swim, cycle and run, solo or in a team relay. Choose the long course or the medium course. Explore the lake and forest of Kyaninga then join your team mates and competitors for another after party to remember. Lake Kyaninga is completely safe to swim in.

What’s the difference between the triathlon, duathlon and fun run?

Triathlon. Medium course – 750 m swim, 17 km cycle, 5 km run
Triathlon. Long course – 1500 m swim, 34 km cycle, 10 km run
Duathlon. 5 km run, 17 km cycle, 5 km run
Fun run. 5 km run or walk

Each team should have two or three competitors: in a two-person team, one member will complete two disciplines. For a three-person team, each member will complete one discipline.

How much does it cost to take part in the Kyaninga Triathlon?

Full packages that include accommodation at Kyaninga Lodge and a week full of safari activities are available for international visitors.

“Race-only entry” is available to Ugandan residents. Pre-registration required.

Triathlon and duathlon. Individual entry $45 or 165k UGX. Team entry $80 or 295k UGX
Fun run. Individual entry $30 or 110k UGX. Kids under 12 $15 or 55k UGX.

Running the Rift, 42km + 21km + 10km + 5 km races. Kyaninga Lodge – November 2024

The Kyaninga (42km) marathon is a big day in the local and international running calendar. The Running the Rift 42km, 21km, 10km and 5km races take place every November. Beginners run alongside Olympians, locals run alongside visitors from around the world and everyone runs the most stunning race route imaginable. You will run high up on the Rift Valley Escarpment, looking out “as the Rwenzori Mountains melt into the East African plain.” The races are followed by a big after-party and BBQ.

To register for any of these events, please contact the event organisers directly. Email events@kyaningacdc.org or call 0778 277248 for details on how to pay. Hope to see you at one of the events – and best of luck!

May your Christmas be WILD with elephants and warthogs!

15 years ago this month, I was packing up my life in the UK as I prepared to fly to Uganda for the very first time… Uganda was a blank page to me then. Queen Elizabeth National Park soon became my backyard. In the meantime, Diary of a Muzungu has been welcomed across East Africa. What a buzz it’s been. Thanks to everyone I’ve met along the way!

Being a developing country, things change quickly here in Uganda: I’ve never lived anywhere that evolves so fast. Uganda has mushrooming numbers of lodges and guides, new subjects such as adventure tourism and every other person I meet wants to join the industry, or so it feels. We’re living in exciting times – but not without their challenges – which is why in 2024, I’ll be focusing more on responsible tourism and sustainable tourism, my true passions. As I read last week: “The tourist sector has both a wondrous opportunity to lead in global climate awareness and action, and a heavy responsibility to ensure the sustainable development of the tourist sector itself.”

But enough of all that serious stuff… IT’S THE HOLIDAYS! 

Venturing into unexplored corners of Queen Elizabeth National Park – Kyambura Game Reserve

This cheeky photo was taken on a walking safari on the northern bank of the Kazinga Channel, Queen Elizabeth National Park, accompanied by a Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger. Safari courtesy of Honey Bear Camp (the River Station Bush Camp), Wildplaces Africa’s new luxury concession (in Kyambura Game Reserve, a boat ride away).

"Communing with my inner warthog" photo and caption by Philip Briggs

“Communing with my inner warthog” photo and caption by Philip Briggs Bradt Guides author and SafariBookings writer.

Revisiting Queen Elizabeth National Park – the Kazinga Channel

HO HO HO. My view from the MV Kazinga boat cruise in Queen Elizabeth National Park. The Kazinga Channel ‘water safari’ in the heart of QE is one of the country’s best wildlife experiences. I’ve lost count of the times I’ve done it. Kazinga Channel is a mecca for birdlovers. Photo taken November 2023.

Did you hear that travelers and Africa travel experts voted Uganda “Africa’s best safari country?”

In 2023, 1000s of travelers and SafariBookings experts voted Uganda “Africa’s best safari country” and “Africa’s best birding safari country.” (No surprise at all, really!)

Uganda on SafariBookings.com 2023 graphic created by Theo Vos
Click to read why travelers vote Uganda “best safari country.”

GOT A QUESTION?
If you’re looking for travel recommendations, email me or text via WhatsApp.  I’m also active on LinkedInInstagram and Facebook so let’s hang out there too!

NEW TO DIARY OF A MUZUNGU? … Start your journey here.

Thanks for being a part of my 2023. Happy Christmas everyone! 

With love from Charlotte Beauvoisin AKA Nagawa Diary of a Muzungu

Yes! Travelers vote Uganda “Best Safari Country”

You read it right! 1000s of travelers and SafariBookings experts agree

For those of us who live in this insanely beautiful corner of the world, it’s no surprise to read that Uganda has just been rated “Africa’s best safari country by travelers.” This is the result of a survey by SafariBookings, the continent’s biggest online platform for tour operators and safari companies.

Uganda voted Africa's best safari country. 2023 ratings for major African destinations on SafariBookings.com
2023 RANKINGS: Ranked no. 5 overall, Uganda received a whopping 4.83/5 from travelers

This remarkable performance takes into account a whole range of categories, from wildlife and scenic beauty to birding and bush credentials. Uganda was also the clear winner when it comes to Africa’s best birding-safari country, as voted by the experts.

Uganda clearly has reason to be optimistic about future surveys, as they’re hot on the heels of the current top three. Watch this space…

SafariBookings‘ verdict on Uganda as a safari destination. SafariBookings is the world’s largest resource and leading authority for planning an African safari. They check the registration papers of all tour operators, and have 92,471 traveler reviews written by people like you. 

What the experts say about Uganda

We know Philip Briggs as the author of the Uganda Bradt Guide, the country’s best-known guidebook. I interviewed Briggs in Uganda. He also writes for SafariBookings.

In the same survey, SafariBookings travel experts rank Uganda as Africa’s best birding safari destination!

If you’ve been reading Diary of a Muzungu for a while, you’ll know that I love birds. Birds send my heart a flutter is a collection of some of my Uganda birdwatching stories.

Pair of Little Bee-eaters. Uganda birds. COPYRIGHT Sherry McElvie
Pair of Little Bee-eaters. Uganda birds. COPYRIGHT Sherry McElvie

New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😁🦍🌳🦁 links to popular pages and the most useful resources.

Kibale Forest welcomes Volcanoes Safaris!

Diary of a Muzungu is excited to share that Volcanoes Safaris “the pioneer of gorilla and chimpanzee ecotourism in Uganda and Rwanda since 1997” will soon be opening their fifth lodge, right on our doorstep: Kibale Forest!*

Although best known for its group of 1500 raucous chimpanzees, Kibale Forest’s chimps even have their NetFlix series. The whole Toro region has a mesmerizing landscape: mile after mile of rolling green hills, crater lakes and the essence of rural Ugandan life.

Built by hand, Kibale Lodge is thoughtfully designed to harmonize with the rocky outcrop that dominates the 150-acre site. The new luxury lodge will feature eight deluxe rooms, a villa, swimming pool, sauna and spa. I can’t wait to see the final result! The main lodge building will overlook Lake Lugembe in the lodge grounds, with sweeping views of the Rwenzori Mountains, famously known as the “Mountains of the Moon,” and a glimpse of Queen Elizabeth and the Kazinga Channel to the south.

This clip makes me fall in love ♥ with Kibale Forest all over again!

This short film (and computer generated imagery) documents the building of Kibale Lodge by Volcanoes Safaris’ in-house construction team

Like other Volcanoes Safaris properties, Kibale Lodge has been a long time in the making. Although we had wanted a lodge there for many years, there were no attractive large sites available. So five years ago we started assembling this site, centred on the breathtaking ridge above Lake Lugembe. Finally it has come together.

We have been assessing the topography, light, and weather patterns. The design and build style will ensure the lodge remains consistent with our ecological principles as well as retaining our Afro-chic ethos. The lodge will fit into the landscape in a seamless way, as if it always existed and just grew out of the earth.

Our style of building boutique lodges develops informally and in a fluid way. We like to bring out the natural essence of buildings.

Praveen Moman, the visionary founder of Volcanoes Safaris and a seasoned figure in Ugandan and Rwandan tourism

Kibale Lodge is the natural addition to Volcanoes Safaris’ existing circuit of four “great ape lodges,” these being: Bwindi Lodge, Mount Gahinga Lodge and Kyambura Gorge Lodge in Queen Elizabeth National Park in Uganda, Virunga Lodge in Rwanda. In 2023 alone, Volcanoes Safaris have won a series of awards including Travel + Leisure World’s Best Awards, Condé Nast Traveller Readers’ Choice Awards and Marie Claire Sustainability Awards.

Volcanoes Safaris map of their five Uganda and Rwanda lodges 2023. MAP COURTESY of Andrew Roberts
Volcanoes Safaris’ map of their five Uganda and Rwanda lodges 2023. MAP COURTESY of Andrew Roberts

Vision

Volcanoes Safaris not only provides high levels of services (think: complimentary massages and personal butlers) in awe-inspiring locations but also distinguishes itself through unwavering dedication to great ape conservation and long-term investment in the local community.

We believe that the conservation of species such as the mountain gorilla has to be part of the economic mainstream to succeed; sensitive and controlled tourism has an essential role to play in conservation; and most of all, if an endangered species is to survive, the focus of conservation and tourism must be on communities getting tangible long-term benefits.

Praveen Moman

In Kibale Forest, the Volcanoes Safaris Partnership Trust will collaborate with the Jane Goodall Institute Uganda. This is modelled on the successful community-based conservation projects that have been running at Kyambura Gorge Lodge for over a decade.

Drive times to Kibale Lodge

  • An hour from Fort Portal.
  • An hour from the airstrip at Kasese, ideal for daily flights to and from Entebbe, and the other Volcanoes Safaris lodges.
  • 30 minutes to the starting point for chimp tracking at Kanyanchu in Kibale Forest, one of Africa’s best parks for viewing chimpanzees. Read Diary of a Muzungu’s firsthand account of chimp tracking in Kibale Forest in “Pant hoots and knuckle spins.”

Read more about Volcanoes Safaris’ lodges and conservation commitment on Diary of a Muzungu:

Opening offer in 2024

Looking ahead, Kibale Lodge’s first three deluxe bandas will be ready for guests by May 2024; an additional five bandas will be unveiled by the year’s end. To celebrate this milestone, Volcanoes Safaris are offering a special opening promotion. Guests can combine their Kibale Lodge experience with gorilla trekking at Bwindi or Mount Gahinga Lodge and enjoy five nights for the price of four.

For more details, contact Volcanoes Safaris directly enquiries@volcanoessafaris.com – and do mention Diary of a Muzungu sent you 😉

*Regular Diary of a Muzungu readers know I am “blogger in residence” at Sunbird Hill, a few minutes drive from Kibale National Park.

Trunk call: Jim Nyamu walks across East Africa to protect elephants

Have you heard about Jim Justus Nyamu’s cross-continental walks? Read about Ivory Belongs to Elephants’ East-Central Africa campaign walk

An amazing feat! 🐘 (Or should I say feet?) 👣

Jim campaigns tirelessly to protect elephants. He’s walked 1000s of miles / km and this is his 16th Campaign Walk for Elephants. His aim: to encourage African nations to work closely to protect this species that knows no borders. 

Jim Justus Nyamu, *OGW, is the Founder and Executive Director of the Elephant Neighbors Center, a non-profit whose mission is “to protect the African Elephant and secure landscapes for elephants outside protected areas.” The brand Ivory Belongs to Elephants™ focuses on raising awareness locally, nationally, and internationally of the plight of African Elephants, primarily through their advocacy walks.

Giraffe Centre, Nairobi. Jim Nyamu pictured with Charlotte Diary of a Muzungu
Jim Nyamu is one of my conservation heroes! We last met at the Giraffe Center in Nairobi, where he’s one of the directors

The East-Central Africa walk started in Nairobi, Kenya, on July 29th and passed through Nakuru, Mau Forest, Tinderet, Kakamega and Malaba (Mount Elgon). In Uganda, Jim walked through Mabira Forest, Kampala, Queen Elizabeth National Park, Mbarara, Lake Mburo and Bwindi Impenetrable Forest; now in Rwanda, Jim will visit Kigali, and Akagera National Park; and onto Goma, Virunga National Park, Okapi Wildlife Reserve, and Garamba National Park in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. This four-month walk will cover approximately 3,200 km. The walks offer solutions to mitigating human-wildlife conflict and highlight the direct importance of wildlife to affected communities.

Jim Nyamu Ivory belongs to elephants campaign
Jim Nyamu is joined by supporters from Kenya and the East African Community on one of his many Ivory belongs to elephants campaigns
Uganda – and Kenyans living in Uganda – were honoured to meet Jim Nyamu in Kampala and accompany him for a few km walk through the city

This most iconic of African species is being pushed towards extinction – slaughtered by poachers to supply a worldwide ivory trade worth up to US$20 billion a year. Despite a ban in many countries, the killing is only getting worse. There are now estimated to be only 350,000 elephants left in Africa, with approximately 20,000 being killed every year. African elephants will be extinct in our lifetime if this rate of loss continues.

Ivory belongs to elephants press release

Elephants are crucial in:

  • dispersing seeds +
  • keeping the habitat open for grazing animals +
  • fighting climate change by contributing to natural carbon capture +
  • attracting millions of tourists who make substantial contributions to sub-Saharan Africa’s economies +
  • so much more!
ivory belongs to elephants. Jim Nyamu Ugandan school tree planting 2023
Tree-planting at a school in Uganda, September 2023. Jim Nyamu and the ivory belongs to elephants campaign have engaged with 16,000 schools over the last decade

Jim and his team have been walking to raise awareness since 2013. By the end of the current campaign, they will have walked almost 20,000 km across Africa, the United States, and the UK, connecting with over 16,000 schools, and holding over 900 community meetings along the the campaign walks.

Jim also walks in the US and Europe to raise awareness in international communities that are still trading in ivory. For example, despite the 2018 announcement of the UK government’s plans to ban sale and export of most ivory items, the trade in ivory and live elephants is still legal in several countries.

Jim Nyamu with elephant
Jim Justus Nyamu

If you see Jim, why not join the walk for an hour or even a day? 👣

Better still, you can support the team on the ground by making a donation. (I know how grim it is to try and sleep in a soggy tent!)

You can send directly to Jim Justus Nyamu via Momo +256 784755115 or Mpesa +254 713353060 or donate on the Ivory belongs to elephants gofundme page. Find out more on the Ivory belongs to elephants on Facebook.

(*OGW is the Order of the Grand Warrior of Kenya is an award presented to individuals in recognition of an outstanding service rendered to the country).

Wild dog excitement in Kidepo!

Back from extinction? Or just back for the day? African wild dogs recorded in Uganda for the first time in over 40 years

Recently, the grainy photo [below] from a wildlife ranger’s phone went viral on Uganda’s conservation and tourism WhatsApp groups. There’s no mistaking the dog’s lollop and it’s smudged tricolour coat: African wild dogs have been recorded in Uganda for the first time since the 1980s! Reports say that two individual dogs were seen.

African wild dog pictured in Kidepo, Uganda, 27th June 2023. PHOTO by Gilbert Manyimanyi, Uganda Wildlife Authority ranger

The wild dog sightings were in Narus Valley in Uganda’s most north-easterly protected area, bordering South Sudan. What brought the wild dogs to the Narus Valley? And will Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers see them again? This amazing animal was widely believed to be extinct in Uganda – until now.

It’s exciting to add a new species to my blog and I immediately turned to ‘the wildlife bible’, Richard D. Estes’ The Safari companion: guide to watching African mammals.

What do we know about wild dogs?

  • African wild dogs (Lycaon pictus) are also known as painted dogs or painted wolves.
  • “Their conspicuous colour testifies to their hunting prowess: here is a predator that doesn’t need to sneak up on its prey.” WOW.
  • They are “a lean-long legged canid built for speed and endurance.” They are Africa’s largest dogs.
  • African wild dogs are “the most carnivorous and one of the most specialised hunters.”
  • Known in East Africa as a plains animal, their range is through all types of bush and montane habitats.
  • African wild dogs are highly susceptible to canine diseases. Disease is the main suspect in their demise (they can infected by domestic dogs).
An African wild dog pictured with painter himself Carrel Kumbirai
An African wild dog (from South Africa) pictured with the painter Carrel Kumbirai. This incredibly life-like painting is of a photo by Jocelin Kagan, author of Africa’s wild dogs – A survival story. Proceeds of art sales go to support the African Wildlife Conservation Fund in Zimbabwe.

How will the rangers find wild dogs in Uganda?

According to Chris and Tilde Stuart, authors of Field Guide Mammals of South AfricaWild dogs do not establish territories but have very large home ranges.” (This suggests that the dogs were likely to just be visiting Kidepo).

  • Animals live in packs of 10, 20 or even 30. Packs of 20 dogs are common although bigger numbers have been recorded in southern Africa.
  • Large packs tend to split. (Are these two individuals splitting to form a new pack?)
  • “A strong smell is characteristic of the species.” Imagine!
  • Wild dogs make a range of sounds, from a deep rough bark, to a “birdlike twittering” when they are excited, and ultrasonic calls (which are inaudible to humans).
  • “The only sure way to see wild dogs is when they are denning” [in their den].

I’ve had so much fun researching this topic! And I hope that the African wild dogs are here to stay in Uganda. You never know what you will see – or smell – when you go on safari. I can’t wait to visit Kidepo Valley National Park later this year (can you guess what I’ll be sniffing around for?)

Do Rwanda’s baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?

“Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony?” has to be one of the funniest questions I’ve ever been asked!*

The #FOMO [Fear Of Missing Out] is real this week as Rwanda hosts a week-long celebration of conservation and tourism, most visible at the 19th edition of Kwita Izina gorilla naming ceremony on Friday 1st September. It’s a brilliantly organised event that attracts people from near and far: locals attend for the free performances by local artistes; international ambassadors jet in to name baby gorillas; the rest of us love networking with tourism and conservation colleagues from across Africa as we tour the country and experience The Land of a Thousand Hills‘ growing list of attractions.

What is Kwita Izina?

Kwita Izina is modelled on a tradition in which Rwandans come together as a community to name their children. Since 2005 this has become an official, public event and a global celebration of nature and Rwanda’s commitment to sustainable and responsible tourism. It’s no accident that the Chief Guest is President Kagame and many of his supporters; but you have to hand it to him, this is a really slick show.

374 mountain gorillas have been named over the last 18 years of Kwita Izina.

Rwanda works hard to thank the vets, conservationists, wildlife rangers, donors, tourism experts, international influencers and of course the local community. Media from all nations are in abundance at every event. But this is far more than a free day out for the local community; it’s a public celebration of Rwanda itself too.

What happens at the gorilla naming ceremony?

I’ve been hosted media at Kwita Izina on a number of occasions, courtesy of Rwanda Development Board and The Gorilla Organization. These were great opportunities to research my updates for Horizon Guides and for the Rwanda chapter of Fodor’s Travel’s “The Complete Guide to the African Safari” (and Diary of a Muzungu too of course!)

During Kwita Izina, VIP namers from all walks of life are invited on stage to name one of the year’s baby gorillas, first in Kinyarwanda and then in English

In 2013 I wrote BINGO! Rwanda’s Kwita Izina, gorilla naming ceremony. That year I was a guest of The Gorilla Organization NGO, thanks to Jillian Miller and TGO Chair Ian Redmond. It was an honour to interview Kwita Izina‘s creator Rosette Rugamba at Hotel Muhabura, made famous by Dian Fossey.

Who gets to name Rwanda’s gorilla babies? What do the given names mean? And what is the format of the Kwita Izina event?

You’ll be amazed at the diversity of the attendees! Read more in Celebrating gorillas at “the best Kwita Izina ever!” my account from 2018.

Who will name the gorillas at Kwita Izina in 2023?

  • Bukola Elemide, known as Asa, French singer, songwriter, and recording artist
  • Danai Gurira, Actress, activist and playwright
  • Her Highness Sheikha Moza bint Nasser Al-Missned, Co-Founder and Chairperson, Qatar Foundation
  • Bernard Lama, SG Legend
  • Sol Campbell, Arsenal Legend
  • Idrissa Akuna “Idris” Elba OBE and Sabrina Dhowre Elba
  • British actor, producer, and musician. Sabrina is a Canadian model and spouse to Idris Elba
  • Cyrille Bolloré, CEO, Bolloré
  • H.E. Hazza AlQahtani, Ambassador of the United Arab Emirates to the Republic of Rwanda
  • Rt. Hon. Andrew Mitchell MP, Member of Parliament of the United Kingdom
  • Joakim Noah, Former professional basketball player
  • Kevin Hart, Comedian and Actor
  • Winston Duke, Actor and Producer
  • Jonathan Ledgard, Novelist
  • Zurab Pololikashvili, Secretary General of the United Nations World Tourism Organizations
  • Audrey Azoulay, Director General of United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organisation
  • Anders Holch Povlsen, CEO of Bestseller retail clothing chain
  • Larry Green, Trustee, African Wildlife Foundation Board
  • Joe Schoendorf, Silicon Valley Pioneer
  • Nick Stone, Lead director of Wilderness Safaris
  • Innocent Dusabeyezu
  • Ineza Umuhoza Grace, Founder and CEO of the Green Protector
  • Elvine Ineza, Primary Six Student at Regina Pacis School in Musanze District
  • Queen Kalimpinya, Rwandan Rally Car Driver and Gender Equality Advocate
Watch this video of the 2022 Kwita Izina event. Rwandans are rightly proud that the event commentary leads in Kinyarwanda, the country’s main language. (The English commentary starts at 1 minute 34 seconds). Interesting fact: Rwanda’s third official language is Swahili

Do the baby gorillas attend Kwita Izina?

*No, the mountain gorillas do not attend the naming ceremony “in person”. They are safe in the sanctuary of Volcanoes National Park blissfully unaware of the thousands of people gathered to celebrate and advocate for their continued survival.

Did you know that if you visit Rwanda during the first week of September, you can get a free invitation to attend Kwita Izina?

If you’re planning to track the gorillas in Rwanda, visit at the end of August or the beginning of September and you can get a free invitation to Kwita Izina. There is tight security (President Kagame attends every year) so invitations need to be planned well in advance through a tour operator or conservation organisation. Other related activities this week include the 2-day Business of Conservation Conference in Kigali, a conservation exhibition and a gala dinner.

Another uniquely Rwandan event that takes place during the same period is the Red Rocks Cultural Festival, in nearby Musanze.

Looking for a tour operator to help you plan a trip to Rwanda or Uganda? Check out my Travel Directory or contact the muzungu.

More acclaim for Uganda’s trailblazing gorilla vet, Dr Gladys!

Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka’s “Walking with Gorillas” book is on sale in all good bookshops.

We’re immensely proud that our very own Dr. Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka has published her memoir. I can’t wait to pick up my copy of her book next week in the UK.

“I recommend this book to everyone interested in conservation, alleviating poverty, and the role of women in society. But perhaps most importantly it is a truly inspiring story of how one determined and dedicated woman overcame many setbacks and faced many dangers to follow and realize her dream.”

Jane Goodall, PhD, DBE and UN Messenger of Peace, from the foreword to “Walking with Gorillas”

Dr Gladys is Uganda’s leading, award-winning wildlife vet and gorilla conservation expert. She is the country’s first ever wildlife vet. In 2017, we collaborated on an ecotourism guide to tracking gorillas for Horizon Guides. For many years, she has been calling on us to all wear masks when tracking the great apes (gorillas and chimpanzees). During the pandemic, I often recalled her words about the threat of disease spread between species:

Humans and gorillas share over 98% genetic material and can easily make each other sick. This means that we have to “tread lightly” when visiting gorillas and take precautionary measures such as not tracking when you are sick, maintaining a distance and in the future going an extra step further by wearing masks to further reduce human disease threats to the critically endangered mountain gorillas.

Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka
BBC Spy in the wild. Uganda. Filming Dr Gladys. John Downer Productions
On location in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest filming “Spy in the wild” for the BBC. Pictured with Dr Gladys Kalema-Zikusoka are Uganda Wildlife Authority rangers and the crew from John Downer Productions

This uplifting debut by conservationist Kalema-Zikusoka reflects on her upbringing in Uganda and career as a wildlife veterinarian. Born in Kampala, Uganda, in 1970, the author was two years old when her father, a former cabinet minister, was abducted and murdered by the forces of then-president Idi Amin. She recounts devoting herself to her education and enrolling at the University of London Royal Veterinary College, becoming at age 26 Uganda’s first veterinarian specializing in wild animals. Vivid anecdotes detail the sometimes gritty nature of her work with endangered mountain gorillas, as when she describes using sugar to help reduce swelling around a gorilla’s prolapse. Through her work, she became “convinced that you couldn’t keep the gorillas healthy without improving the health and well-being of the people with whom they shared their fragile habitats” and began studying disease transmission between humans and primates. That research, she relates, enabled her to successfully advocate for Uganda’s adoption of the “One Health” approach to conservation, which recognizes that human hygiene and health lead to better welfare for plants and animals. The heartwarming narrative testifies to the good that one person can achieve and illuminates the complex interdependence between humans and their environments. Admirers of Jane Goodall will love this.

A summary of “Walking with gorillas” from the publisher
I’m honoured to get a mention in Dr Gladys’ book for our work developing the Gorilla Conservation Coffee website

Read more about Gorilla Conservation Coffee, a clever conservation initiative, a sustainably produced coffee and a great cafe too!

Gorilla Conservation Coffee CTPH Uganda
Uganda’s coffee is trending internationally and locally, coffee culture is booming too! Gorilla Conservation Coffee, a CTPH initiative from Uganda

Her zeal for animals and gorillas in particular, as witnessed in this book, have lead Gladys to ground breaking innovations in conservation winning her global awards. This is an awe-inspiring walk by a remarkable lady who stands to be counted among women of incredible determination and purpose.

HRH Nnabagereka, Sylvia Nagginda Luswata, Queen of Buganda Kingdom, Uganda
Dr Gladys Kalema and Diary of a Muzungu. Explorers Club Uganda
Dr Gladys rocking the coolest dress ever! At the launch of the first sub-Saharan Africa chapter of the Explorers Club, Uganda in 2014

Dr Gladys is an incredible lady. She’s an inspiring role model for Ugandan women – and women everywhere. I can’t wait to read her book!

Have you read Walking with gorillas yet? Write a comment here. I’d love to read your views.

New to Diary of a Muzungu? Start here 😁🦍🌳🦁

Welcome to Diary of a Muzungu!

Visiting this blog for the first time? Here are popular pages I just know you’ll like:

What makes the Pearl of Africa so special? Read the ever-popular 50 reasons why I love Uganda.

Coming to Uganda to work, volunteer or simply live? Read Uganda for beginners – a guide for new expats and Is Uganda safe? (expats share their experiences about life in Uganda).

Looking for a tour operator?

The Travel Directory lists registered tour operators, accommodation and things to do in Uganda. New listings are added regularly 😎

You can also read reviews of Uganda tour operators on SafariBookings, the largest online marketplace for African safari tours.

Latest health measures at Entebbe International Airport UPDATED JUNE 2023

Uganda tourist visas – apply online before you fly! UPDATED FEBRUARY 2023

The East Africa Tourist Visa (Uganda / Rwanda / Kenya) – a definitive guide

Going on safari? Here’s the price list for visiting the National Parks, buying gorilla permits and a lot more. Uganda Wildlife Authority revises conservation fees FEES for 2024

Ultimate Guide to Tracking Mountain Gorillas a multi-page guide

Uganda’s National Parks a page on each of the country’s ten National Parks

I regularly travel to Kenya, Rwanda and Tanzania too. I have visited – and researched – a long list of places that haven’t (yet) made it onto the blog. In 2022/3, that included:

UGANDA Kalangala (Ssese Islands), the very cool Banda Island, the Railway Museum in Jinja and both sides of the River Nile at Jinja, Arua and Pakwach in West Nile, Entebbe, Kampala, Kibale Forest and Fort Portal, Murchison Falls, Ishasha Wilderness Camp in Queen Elizabeth National Park, Kyambura Game Reserve, every lodge in Lake Mburo National Park, Mbarara, Kisoro, Lake Chahafi, Lake Mutanda, glorious Mgahinga and every sector of Bwindi Impenetrable Forest.

RWANDA Kigali, Gisenyi and Lake Kivu, the world-class Ellen de Generes Campus of the Dian Fossey Gorilla Fund in Kinigi, Musanze and Gishwati-Mukura National Park (all part of my research for Fodor’s Complete Guide to the African Safari).

TANZANIA Arusha and Moshi with views of Kilimanjaro.

Who is Diary of a Muzungu?

Read a bit About me, some Interviews and my Portfolio of writing for other publications. Do get in touch! 😎

Random Uganda that will make you smile

Diary of a Muzungu comprises 100s of personal stories, travel reviews, wildlife encounters (and dating disasters!) Here are a few favourites.

Pant hoots and knuckle spins. Chimp tracking in Kibale Forest

Are Muzungus all rich? Apparently!

Ants in my pants insects EEEEH!

How to feed a baby elephant … cute! but the truth is shocking

Were Toto right about Africa? remember that song?

My local name is Nagawa but what does it mean? And how did I get this charming name? Read Bwindi – eye to eye with my totem

Downtown dreadlocks – the muzungu’s blind date

Grateful every day is dedicated to my home at Sunbird Hill on the edge of Kibale Forest AKA “how nature saved me.”

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