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Bandas, huts, hostels. Where to stay in Kampala?

Jan 25 • 5983 views • 6 Comments on Bandas, huts, hostels. Where to stay in Kampala? Lodge and hotel reviews, Uganda

Bandas, huts and hostels – where to stay in Uganda?

Living in Kampala

As soon as I stepped off the plane, I fell in love with Uganda. I just knew I was going to be happy in Kampala.

Being a volunteer in a developing country has been a fascinating experience and some day I’ll write a book about it. I was overwhelmed by it all, the vibrancy of the colours, the welcoming smiles and humour, waking to the call of exotic birds every morning, the wall-to-wall sunshine!

I was lucky that my accommodation had been organised for me when I first arrived with VSO in early 2009. ‘Living above the shop’ was not always easy. At weekends I had a big house to myself but during the week I lived in the office.

Moving house in Kampala

Moving house in Kampala, or ‘shifting’ as Ugandans call it. This vehicle is usually reserved for transporting cows!

But how would I have managed if I’d arrived on my own? And where to stay in Kampala?

Much of Kampala is now mapped on Google and the city of seven hills (or is that 22 nowadays?) has a variety of accommodation from hostels to locally-run guesthouses, business hotels, apartments and one or two European-style boutique hotels. Finding accommodation in Kampala is getting easier all the time. There’s a range of cheap accommodation in Kampala for backpackers, volunteers and those on a budget. Mosquito nets are de rigeur and if you don’t see one, insist on one (unless you’re in the cooler air of the mountains where mosquitoes can’t survive). Business visitors, international NGO workers and diplomats can equally find a good choice of places to stay in Kampala. Oh to have an expenses budget!

Last year I had an encounter with a fellow travel blogger in a Kampala hotel!

Moving house Ugandan style

Need to move something? Get a boda boda! Think you’re asking the impossible? Think again! Photo courtesy of Mark Thriscutt

Moving house by boda boda is easy – just ask my friend Amy! Here she recounts how she recently ‘shifted’ in Kampala.

To camp or not to camp – that is the question!

I’ve stayed in all kinds of accommodation across Uganda. I’ve been lucky enough to stay in some of the best lodges – or at least in their grounds! As long as you can afford to eat there, it’s usually possible to camp very cheaply in the grounds of a Lodge. There aren’t as many campsites in Uganda as there are in many other countries so you’re advised to stay in the grounds of a Lodge or a hotel or in one of the Uganda Wildlife Authority designated campsites.

Camping at Nile Safari Lodge, Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda

We pitched our tent next to Nile Safari Lodge where we had a private view of the Nile – er… shame the camera was facing the wrong way!

We bought a tent for our first Safari to Murchison Falls and pitched up a few hundred metres from Nile Safari Lodge. It was a bit scary when they started burning the grass and the smouldering embers landed on our tent – luckily the tent survived!

Many of the UWA and National Forestry Authority campsites have bandas for rent. Bandas can be fun!

When is a banda not a banda?

A banda is a catch-all term for a hut or small self-contained room. If you’re lucky it will be picturesque: round with painted murals, a thatched roof and even an ensuite bathroom. A banda can also be an ugly square concrete block with no running water or electricity! Here lighting is usually provided by a kerosene lamp, which can be romantic. I quite like the smell of the stuff – it’s highly dangerous of course.

My favourite banda in Uganda is at the UWA campsite in Ishasha, where Enid and I spent ten days while carrying out a Uganda Conservation Foundation survey to measure the impact of the elephant trench. That was the week of the snakes! We saw three snakes in three days that April. (Enid was not pleased!) The biggest stretched from one side of the road to the other: a huge black strip that looked like a shredded car tyre. I turned my head and it had gone, all two metres of it (possibly more?)

It’s always best to check out accommodation first if you can. The printed Bradt Uganda guide contains the most detail on tourist accommodation in Uganda.

The cleanest toilet in Uganda

This hut is in fact a toilet, a few kilometres from the border with the DR Congo. This pit latrine, dug out of the marram soil, has to be the cleanest toilet in Uganda. (It’s the ones in town that can be grim).

People often ask me where to stay in Kampala or how to organise a safari in Uganda.

Just send the Muzungu an email if you’d like me to recommend somewhere.

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6 Responses to Bandas, huts, hostels. Where to stay in Kampala?

  1. Manjit says:

    Hello Muzungu
    I am a Brit of Asian origin- will be working for the VSO soon- next week. What can I expect to be called- instead of Muzungu?

    • the muzungu says:

      Hello Manjit, thanks for visiting my blog. That’s an interesting question and I’m not really sure!
      A Muzungu is generally a white person although the term comes from the Kiswahili for ‘dizzy,’ a person who’s turning in circles and looking lost, which is how the first white people who arrived in East Africa appeared! Inwardly, I’m sure that you’ll be feeling as dizzy as I did for the first few months (part of the fun of a new culture)!
      Good luck with VSO, I had an incredible experience. Feel free to message me via my contact page if you have any other questions?

  2. Ivan says:

    Webale nyo Mzungu,i recommend you one place to visit fort portal
    Thank you,


    • the muzungu says:

      Hello Ivan thanks for your comment. I visited Fort Portal a few times but haven’t written about it – yet! Thanks for the reminder. Let me know when the Toro King has an event, I am working my way around the Kingdoms!
      I saw those very cute pictures of the baby chimp that UWEC has just rescued. Maybe I can come and visit him and write a blog. What d’you think?

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