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Chimp alert! muzungu bolthole? Kibale Forest

Feb 12 • 6863 views • 9 Comments on Chimp alert! muzungu bolthole? Kibale Forest Africa, African food, birds, Conservation, Diary of a Muzungu, Kibale Forest National Park, Road trip, Travel, Uganda, wildlife

Three dogs bark excited greetings as we drive up the steep hill on the approach to Julia’s house on the edge of Kibale Forest.

The four hours from Kampala to Fort Portal on tarmac are easy. The last hour of the journey is the hardest: balancing a plastic bag full of raw eggs on my lap, as Julia races down the rutted dustbowl that passes for a road. Cool crater lakes beckon right and left.

Julia Lloyd chimpanzee primatologist Kibale Forest

Annotated drawings of Kibale Forest’s chimpanzees decorate Julia’s treehouse home. Julia was part of the team that first habituated the chimps for tourism

I’m having a break from the midday sun. Julia suggests I haul my Jerry can of cold water up into the sunshine so it’s warm for my afternoon shower. Butterflies circle around the water dripping into the washing bowl beneath the Jerry can. Julia’s world is full of her dad’s home-made inventions, contraptions in which Jerry cans feature prominently.

Determined to finish her Ph.D., Julia is spending most of her time in Kampala this year. We arrive in Kibale to find the inverter is broken, so there’s no power; the solar panel isn’t working either. There’s no gas left in Fort Portal, so we borrow a gas cylinder from the local lodge. At least we won’t have to rely on the charcoal stove to cook dinner and heat water for eight people for the next three days! This weekend may be classed as a trial run for future tourism endeavours!

Hope has prepared dinner: it’s ‘Irish’ (potatoes) from the garden, and g’nut (groundnut) sauce. The home-grown groundnuts are stored in a gigantic Ali Baba basket. Swimming in my g’nut sauce is a Lungfish, whole. I can’t face eating it and guiltily leave the fish in the pot. The kids found it in the river when they were collecting water this morning – I guess someone will have the stomach for it.

After dinner, a slither of moon to guide us, we check out the park boundary paths. As we inch past, torchlight reveals spiderwebs suspended between branches. We duck under the washing line. The dogs bound ahead of us into the trees.

Freshly broken branches are evidence of a recent elephant visit.

Julia Lloyd. Kibale Forest view

View of Kibale Forest from Julia Lloyd’s viewing platform

“Wake up, the chimps are here! Come quick!” Yells Julia the following morning.

Bleary-eyed, I climb the viewing platform and we watch a solitary chimp warming himself in the early morning sun some 30 meters above ground. It’s my first sight of a chimpanzee in the wild.

Julia spent many years living in a treehouse deep in the forest studying Kibale Forest’s chimpanzees.

Julia Lloyd's Kibale Forest treehouse

Julia’s previous home – her treehouse in Kibale Forest

Baby Dillon points at the sweet bananas. He’s eaten four by the time we arrive at Primate Lodge on the edge of Kibale Forest. I’m covered in banana (there’s no chance of keeping clean around dogs and babies). Malcolm arrives shortly with five visitors, here to do a bird census and to advise Julia on how to maximise the biodiversity to attract more birdlife from the forest.

Before he arrives, we walk down to the forest boundary a few hundred metres away and check the ‘slashing’ (cutting back of the Bush). Four men have been working all morning to clear an access path for the nets.

We stop for a minute to debate whether to cut down a slender branch hanging over the path.

“Don’t touch that,” says Julia, “that’s the National Park.”

We look up, straight into the eyes of a Green Mamba! It’s a message: he is protecting the forest.

Green Mamba above our head - protecting Kibale Forest

Green Mamba above our head – protecting Kibale Forest!

I’ve added four new birds to my bird list this morning; I can’t wait to add more over the next two days.

We notice freshly broken branches across our path – “The elephants must be close,” says Julia.

Next installment from Kibale Forest: a ticking off – ringing birds in Kibale Forest

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9 Responses to Chimp alert! muzungu bolthole? Kibale Forest

  1. lizziema says:

    Sounds wonderful except for the you know whats strung across the path. How resourceful you are with the cooking arrangements. Atmosphere good, I was there…..

  2. Pamela Enyonu says:

    i really need to get in touch with the muzungu. i love your writing and would love to share it with others in our magazine. please get in touch bcoz i have failed!

  3. […] Nature’s still been holding back on me: my first wild chimp, my first Red Colobus Monkey, my first Green Mamba! But these were all unexpected bonuses – we’d actually travelled to Kibale to ring […]

  4. […] spot for elephant dung (yes, I know ‘I have issues’) so I was delighted to be invited on my next adventure with Julia, heading back to Ishasha, south western Uganda, to check out a community tourism […]

  5. The Muzungu's Best of 2012! - Diary of a Muzungu | Uganda travel blog says:

    […] It’s almost a year since my last trip for our epic bird-ringing week-end at Julia’s amazing home in Kibale Forest – maybe that’s where I’ll write my book?  Chimp alert! or muzungu bolthole? […]

  6. […] It’s almost a year since my last trip for our epic bird-ringing week-end at Julia’s amazing home in Kibale Forest – maybe that’s where I’ll write my book?  Chimp alert! or muzungu bolthole? […]

  7. the muzungu says:

    Five years on, and so much has changed!
    The majority of the road from Fort Portal is now tarmac.
    Julia and (most of the) family are living back in Kanyanchu and the viewing platform has been totally transformed. Malcolm has revisited and chimping and birding tourism plans are afoot!

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