The South African coastline – particularly near the Cape – is littered with shipwrecks and Arniston (Waenhuiskrans) takes its name from the ship that was wrecked here in 1815. Only six of the 378 on board survived.
[PHOTO – not inferring you’re a shipwreck Auntie! Outside the B&B at Kassiesbaai]
Next to it is Kassiesbaai, the tiny fishing village where the Coloureds live. I find the whole race / how you refer to people a real struggle and I find it hard to get my head round the ‘funny foreign sounding’ place names in South Africa. In Uganda I’ve become used to the African names; and now they’re Afrikaans and English and my brain doesn’t compute (aren’t we still in Africa?) I hadn’t realized either just how many Coloureds (god this is a minefield) speak Afrikaans as their first language. I say I only speak English and the reply still comes back in Afrikaans.
While out shopping one day, I’m mistaken for the mother of Odille, the South African baby adopted by W-A (two of H’s friends have adopted orphans). It’s an interesting feeling.
Cape Agulhas, ‘the southernmost point of Africa,’ and where the Atlantic meets the Indian Ocean, was worth the trip, just for the fun we had larking about at the monument. The rockpools were teaming with life and the quaint but charming tearoom under the lighthouse was very welcoming but we were on a mission: “Alan wants chips” so we trotted off down the road for a ‘Hake and Calamari Combo’ in the sunshine outside the fish and chip shop.
Considerable energy was focused on eating and drinking during my three weeks in South Africa: grapes in salad? scrambled eggs on Marmite on toast? We argued over controversial topics as we ate large breakfasts and discussed what we were having for lunch and what we needed to buy for dinner.
So with that in mind, next stop the Waterkloof winery, above Sir Lowry’s Pass, for a fabulous lunch and some sensational wine (I particularly liked the rosé). It was exciting to eat there the first week it opened.
What a fantastic day: my first time with family for 9 months & a quick drive round the estate (I was very envious to hear K and P had ridden the estate on horseback that morning!) Breathtaking view across False Bay & Cape Town; the planting of indigenous plants along the roadside; large artworks on display (and sale); the combination of traditional production methods and a very modern restaurant … the food!
I have to ask myself: is matooke ever going to taste the same?